New week! Tips and help from last week, I had around 1500 ppm and I did flush my roots in water and change everything. Now is around 1000 ppm and dropping 150 ppm a day. Did read about water level in DWC and how to increase the grow with water. I had the water almost up to the root or the level of there the basket is. Now I have 1-2 inch (2-5 cm) below where the roots come out. This create air roots. I'm not sure if it's the air roots or the ppm but my flower is boosting. Can se buds grow!! Trimming so I can keep the same hight. Have any tips or rekomandation? Only have one question for next week and this is: it's looking a bit thigth between the buds and all of the leaf is cristal on it. Should I cut some more leaf? And what leaf should I trim? Is so thigth in there. Or will it grow fine?

The germination i forgot to take pictures so i just have a video of the first 3 strains i started before the other seeds arrived. I used the same metod for all of them 24h in the glass of water after that 48h in the cotton pads in the zip lock bag with 3 sprays of water on the cotton pads and 1 spray when inside the zip lock bag is closed untill 80% leaving a small gap for them to breath. I decided to plant them after that in the final resting pot for this strain in a 5 gallon fabric pot. I used the following media on the bottom of the fabric pot i used 10% of Goldlabel HydroCorn after filled up with Ecothirve coco (70% coco 30% perelite) and i made a hole for my potting soil where i used Advanced Nutrients coco cultivator (50% coco 30% perelite 20% pebbles) and i mixed on the media some Azos , Mykos and Great white shark The light schedule for the first 5 days was 24/0 Just water the plants on the 15/06 i think all my seedlings are stuned because my light is too strong for them and the light is dimed to 25%. And my light meter for lux is saying i have 8600Lux converted is 148 and my DLI on the meter from the phone is saying 150 so its 3x times more the recomended i just dont understand if this phone app is working correctly. So i have decided to put one more seed directly on the soil beacuse they look the most stunned of them all on the 14/06 still didn t germinate i will keep the one is gonna grow stronger thats why there is the dome. Update on the order from spider farmer from Ebay (Order the item on a thursday and the order was not updated on ebay on the following Monday so decided to contact them to understand when i am gonna receive my order i was told true ebay that my item as been shipped and i will receive an update within 1 hour to tell what time the item will be delivered. So never received any message giving me time slot delivery. Never received the item and at 21pm the tracking updeted on Ebay saying delivered so i contected them next day to be told that the courrier actually lost my order and that they will reshippe the order again but was told i need to wait 2 buiness days for the warehouse to processe my order beacuse they are busy what i replied that why should be me the costumer that needs to wait 5 or 6 more days for the order to arrive to me that they should send me the item on the same day and send me with one day delivery. The ansewer was they could not do it so i cancell the order asked for a refund and never more use their products appailing costumer service)

1st Week of Vegetation, one of the Indicas (Hollands Hope) is early than others. Because of the weather and the cold, I preferred to put the seedlings under a 200W CFL bulb.

Only got 2 of 5 to take. Probably error on my part though.🤷‍♂️🏽 the 2 that took are looking great and I already topped them once. Since I only have 2 I'm gonna try to top a lot & bush em out more this time around.

Starting in to vegativ phase in the 1L fabric pots.

Es hat sich viel getan. Das Wetter war gut. Die Luftfeuchtigkeit und die Temperaturen sind teilweise extrem (40 Grad / 25 %Luftfeuchtigkeit). Die Pflanzen stört es soweit nicht. Die Auto Orange hat den Anfang gemacht. Mittlerweile (Tag 36) zeigen alle ihre Vorblüte. Die Auto Orange sind beide um die 60 cm. Die Lemon Kix sind alle sehr groß geworden. Da kratzen 2 an die 90 cm. Sie fangen auch an zu riechen. Der Wasserbedarf steigt auch. Giessen muss ich alle zwei Tage. Batboost bekommen sie bei jedem mal. Bloom wird bei jedem 2 Mal gegeben. Ein gewisses LST habe ich durchgeführt. Die Pflanzenbieger kann ich höchstens 2 Tage dran lassen. Sind sie länger dran brechen mir die Triebe am Bieger. Wahrscheinlich wäre das runter binden und am Topf befestigen die beste Option.

War ein schönes Erlebnis.

F1 Did some topping this last week. In a couple of days will turn them to flowering, would like to keep it between 3-4 weeks of veg at most with the Autopits or they grow way too big. Next week will be putting more nutes on the reservoir, by now that are drinking quite slowly but already using the Autopots

Odore spettacolare di caramelle, a seccare da 3 giorni, non vedo l'ora.

** COST ** TO RUN - Used previous ⛺️ setup : $0.00 - Monthly electricity : $36.73 <-- other ladies sharing ⛺️ - 1 Gallon Fabric pot : $0.10 - Bonsai wire : Apx. $0.03 - Reused soil from last run : $0.00 FOR NUTRIENTS - Jadam Microbial Solution : $0.00 - Fermented Plant Juice : $0.00 APPLYING - JMS : 30ml / 1 Litter - FPJ : 30ml / 1 litter TOTAL COST : $36.86 Throughout the week, I give JSM, and fermented plant juice once each ^^ Hope you guys have a wonderful day today ^^v *** Please Like, comment & share *** Highly appreciated -----/-----<@

Hello again Good week, she grew at least 10 cm. Healthy green leaves. One watering with nutrients. Every 5 days vita race spray, other days pure water. Gonna give rhizotonic next watering. Also did a slight defolation. Removed the 2 lowest fanleaves. No need to put energy in those future popcornbuds. She spend most of the week inside behind the warm window sun with a little breeze from a ventilator Next week it will be very warm here. I think I will leave her outside. She's strong enough by now. Upcoming week I will also start the Neem Oil treatment. Purely preventive but outside there is more chance on bad bugs so I wanna be ahead of problems instead of waiting for the first signs😁 keep an eye out cause I will post more pictures this week to show how she develops. Keep growing strong friends.

Barney's Farm Watermelon Zkittlez Auto from North Atlantic Seed Company. Germinated in rapid rooter placed on AC Infinity propagator. Temp 75º RH 85% + Watermelon Zkittlez Auto by Barneys Farm Watch out, because Watermelon Zkittlez Auto has the power to bounce you sideways like a ninepin. Discover her distinct fruity flavours as they froth and fizz from this phenomenal trichome loaded THC factory. An easy to grow yet awe inspiring autoflower, this plant is capable of producing prodigious yields in excess of 550gr/m² in experienced hands. That said, she is an unfussy plant that pretty much grows herself, so can be an ideal option for beginners and experts alike. This sensational specimen will spring into flower when planted in just 70 days, a real speed demon. An easy girl to trim makes harvesting a synch. Later on her effervescent effects will gently pamper you into an extremely peaceful state of mind. Watermelon Skittlez Auto grows to a height of up to just 140cm making it ideal for terrace and balcony growing. High levels of THC (26%) ensure a profound and long lasting euphoric effect. Make sure you try the totally tropical flavours of Watermelon Zkittlez Auto at least once in your life. You will not be sorry you did. Genetics Watermelon Zkittlez x BF Super Auto #1 Indica / Sativa Percentage 60% Indica / 40% Sativa Flowering Time 70 days from sprout Grow Difficulty (1=Easy, 5=Hard): 2 Flavor Profile Fruity Watermelon, Sweet berries

Opium

✌️🎃 Thank you for checking my cultivation. 🍔 Fatten time.

bouncing back from defoliation as they continue to stretch. sour 76 finish stretching at 22-24 inches (flipped at 10-12 inches) plat yetis keep stretching for another week or two

Plant is responding really well to the change in conditions! I've noticed a rapid turn around in her vigor and overall growth day by day. Really glad I decided to ride this out. Next update should be a great one! Happy growing!

Growing beautifully

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Diese und nächste Woche muss ich auf Selbstbewässerung gehen - daher rein mineralische Canna Produkte - hoffentlich schmeckts. EC runter auf 1.5