Report on flowering week 6: --------------------------- Buds become bigger and fatter with each day. With more and larger buds growing, more and more trichmes are produced so the scent is much more noticeable. Each pant is releasing its very own distinct scent. Lovely really! I'm drooling when just looking at these beauties.

Day 43, pH is at 6.0 currently. Plants are praying towards the light so that’s a good sign. Some spots still show up on a couple leaves, just a couple small spots, could still be adjusting. Will know in another day or so if the problem has been corrected or not. Day 44, they seem to be responding better to the change in nutrients. They’re eating and still putting on growth. Some spots are appearing but that’s probably just still an affect of last weeks overload. Day 45, PPMs have continued decreasing and they have consumed about 1.5 gals of water over the past 72 hours. I topped off their res a little bit and readjust pH to 5.9 (it rose to 6.6 because they’re consuming a lot of nutrients) Day 47, Nutrients was almost gone, changed nutrients and bumped up to 800PPM (0.5 scale) Day 48, the nutrient solution inside the buckets gets up to 78-79° by the end of the day (lights on). When lights go off, they drop down to about 70-72°. I built some insulation sleeves out of double layer bubble foil. Should insulated them enough to maintain their lower temp without increasing throughout the day. You can see in photos but in the video I also created tops for each of the buckets to help reflect light and heat from the buckets. Day 49, plants are doing great PPMs are staying pretty stable meaning they have about the perfect ratio of nutrients which is 815PPM currently. Insulating the buckets was a great idea it’s kept the res temps stable and stopped them from rising throughout the day! Today marks day 14 of flower.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Day 36: I bend the branches even more, cut off the top leaf that covered 2 buds, one of them is very small, I hope to give it at least a little chance to grow. This is a victim of a broken branch.

She's fat, healthy and about ready to be chopped :) She will start flushing at the end of this week

Bienvenidos al diario de Purple Lemonade Auto por FastBuds Día -4 (02/05): Se coloca la semilla en tubo de ensayo con 15 ml de agua (EC 0,5) + 3 gotas agua oxigenada (H2O2) en un lugar oscuro a 25 ºC durante 48 horas Día -2 (04/05): Se prepara una maceta (11L) con 8,8 Litros (80%) de sustrato PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS+MYCORRHIZAE + 2,2 Litros de Insect Frass (20%) + 110 gramos de Earth Vibes Super Soil (10 g/L substrato) Se mezcla con el agua del 1er riego (EC 0,4) la parte proporcional de la probeta de microorganismos y se riega muy lentamente hasta percolación profunda Se hace un agujero de 1 cm de profundidad, se coloca la semilla al azar en el agujero, se tapa con un poco de sustrato y se humedece ligeramente con agua en spray Se coloca parte superior botella en la zona de germinación para mantener humedad relativa alta Se introduce en el armario con la lampara ENCENDIDA para mantener la temperatura 20-21 ºC en las horas nocturnas Día -1 (05/05): Se intuye que la semilla empieza a romper el top del sustrato! NO LA TOQUES! 😡🤣 💦Nutrients by Lurpe Solutions - www.lurpenaturalsolutions.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae

Legend Timestamp: 📅 EC - pH: ⚗️ Temp - Hum: 🌡️ Water: 🌊 Food: 🍗 pH Correction: 💧 Actions: 💼 Thoughts: 🧠 Events: 🚀 Media: 🎬 D: DAY, G: GERMINATION, V: VEGETATIVE, B: BLOOMING, R: RIPENING, D: DRYING, C: CURING ________________________________ 📅 D84/B22 - 07/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 1 pH: 5.0 🌡️ T: 19-26 °C H: 55-65 % 🌊 8L 🍗 CalMag - Bloom A-B - B52 - Bud Candy - Big Bud 💧 💼 🧠 The VPD rate was stable on the right value for all the day ! Great, and many thanks to TrolMaster Tent-X ! 🚀 🎬 Added Timelapse video and screenshots ________________________________ 📅 D85/B23 - 08/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.8 pH: 5.2 🌡️ T: 19- 24 °C H: 45-80 % 🌊 2L 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 I'm lowering down the EC as I see signs of burns on tips 🚀 Humidity went out of control for about 2h 🎬 I made a photoset with "Garlic Puppy" enjoy the pictures 😋. Added Timelapse video and screenshots ________________________________ 📅 D86/B24 - 09/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.8 pH: 5.2 🌡️ T: 20-26 °C H: 50-70 % 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 Little defolation 🧠 🚀 🎬 Added Timelapse video and screenshots ________________________________ 📅 D87/B25 - 10/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.8 pH: 5.2 🌡️ T: 22-24 °C H: 55-65 % 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 Little Defolation 🧠 The buds are forming 🚀 Today VPD was very stable 🎬 Added Timelapse video ________________________________ 📅 D88/B26 - 11/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.7 pH: 5.2 🌡️ T: 20-25 °C H: 50-77 % 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 Little Defolation 🧠 🚀 Humidity went out of control for about 2h 🎬 Added 8 pics of Nicole, the timelapse video and the screenshots ________________________________ 📅 D89/B27 - 12/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.7 pH: 5.5 🌡️ T: 19-25 °C H: 50-70 % 🌊 4L 🍗 CalMag - Bloom A-B - B52 - Bud Candy - Big Bud 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 Added timelapse video and screenshots ________________________________ 📅 D90/B28 - 13/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.9 pH: 5.8 🌡️ T: 19-25 °C H: 50-70 % 🌊 4L 🍗 CalMag - Bloom A-B - B52 - Bud Candy - Big Bud 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 Added timelapse video and screenshots

1 week of flower yeahhh 🌲🌲🌲🌱🌱🌱 So happy finally we are gettin in to the secret Moment of thes plants Thanks all so much for the support , and if you check out mi diaries leave a comment of wut you think ✌️✌️✌️ Have a good one growmies 😎🌲❤️

We zijn in week 8 🤘 Ze heeft het naar haar zin ondanks dat de luchtvochtigheid iets aan de hoge kant is. Ze groeit lekker door en de bloemen worden dikker en dikker. Ben begonnen met het geven van green sensation en een beetje calmag. Laten we kijken hoe ze zich deze week ontwikkeld. Ik zal gedurende de week nog verse foto's updaten dus hou het in de gaten 🧐

Week 3 come along and she grow perfectly I just gave her water and bio grow just start to lst training on bugger branches will upload more pictures and videos soon

Well going good so far. Kinda thought I had zinc lockout due to adding too much ph down (phosphorous) to the res rising every other day to 6.5ish. I have a bubbler and a water pump running in there. Gave them a flush of 2l each PhD water with calmag. Looking a bit better hopefully fixes soon

Week 8 Update – Height Issues and Frosty Buds 🌿❄️ No major complaints this week—everything is under control, except for the height of AN#3… but Supercropping to the rescue! 😅 BioBizz#1 – BT30 She’s now using less water, managing 3L every 3 days. Bud development is steady, but compared to AN#4, she’s noticeably less frosty. AN#4 – BT30 This is officially my best and strongest plant so far—super frosty, even on the large fan leaves! 😍 She’s also down to 3.5L every 3 days and thriving. AN#3 – BT26 Not performing as well as the others, mainly due to the light distance. At times, there’s only 4cm clearance from the lamp! She’s definitely not loving it, but I’ve managed to keep things under control with Supercropping. I have to admit, the stretch on this strain caught me off guard, and I’m not entirely happy about it. 😅

We are in Flush !! Was giving them GH Flora series + rapid start + cal mag

Día 27 (20/05) Riego con 250 ml de Té de Compost Auto Northern Dragon Fuel está creciendo exponencialmente! Día 28 (21/05) Vuelven a tener sed! Las riego con 250 ml sólo H20 pH 6.2 Auto Northern Dragon Fuel se ha recuperado muy bien de la deficiencia de Mg Día 29 (22/05) Riego con 750 ml H2O+ Regulator 0,15 ml/l + CaMg-Boost 0,25 ml/l + Startbooster 0,25 ml/l + TopBooster 0,2 ml/l- pH 6.2 Día 30 (23/05) Lemon Cherry Cookies Auto está sedienta de nuevo! 500 ml de sólo H2O con el pH 6.3 Día 31 (24/05) Lemon Cherry Cookies Auto está sedienta de nuevo! Riego con 750 ml H2O + Regulator 0,15 ml/l + TopBooster 0,2 ml/l- pH 6.2 Día 32 (25/05) Las plantas no paran de crecer! 😍 Día 33 (26/05) Riego con 750 ml H2O + Regulator 0,15 ml/l + CaMg-Boost 0,25 ml/l + TopBooster 0,2 ml/l- pH 6.2 Lemon Cherry Cookies Auto tiene un olor increíble 😍😍😍 💦Nutrients by Aptus Holland - www.aptus-holland.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae