The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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- The trichomes photos have been taken just before the harvest. - Drying was made at 20°C and around 50% of humidity (4 days). - Humidity in jar around 55% on the first day, temperature around 21°C. Veg time : 58 days Flowering time : 73 days Total time from seed to harvest : 135 days Height : 59cm Pot size : 26l
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@JoeyGonz
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Lots of preflowers and already frosty AF. They are just now turning from pre's to buds.. I am also mimicking insects as crazy as that sounds.. Every other day I cut few leaves off, or slice off some leaf tips.. Besides cold nights I think that's a good way to make them think they have to defend themselves. Haven't had any health issues or insect issues thank God. The two girls I transplanted late are looking good didn't slows down. If anything they looked like they are happier, leaves up and creating tri's all over. About four weeks to go, But once again things are good to go.
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🍪🥜🍬⛽️ from clone 🌱 gettin pretty by the day
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All ladies looking amazing. Sundae Batter looks to have very good resilience towards stress. Bubble a bit problematic and hangry.
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@Firefly
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Week 5! End of Veg? Preflower? Flower? Very eventful week. Throughout this week at ever watering the plant got a round of LST+Tucking. At this point I'm trying to maximize the amount of growth sites getting light exposure and also trying to keep the canopy relatively flat/level. Full strength nutrients per normal. About this point I was getting really worried about space, particularly giving the genetics of this plant tend to the larger side. Impulse purchased a net and on 9/17/25 the ScrOG net was installed and I did my best to use it to curate the canopy. ~placed about 8" from the top of the pot and besides that I just gave it my best go, not exactly sure if I did it right or not. Towards the end of this week pistols become pretty apparent on most of the plant! Some very light defoliation was done, just a couple of oversized fan leaves that weren't getting much light anyway. LED was set to 100% (and slightly raised) per manufacture specification towards the end of this week. Wouldn't be a first grow without a scare of the week. 😵 Last week we had an accidental topping, this week we have roots growing all outside the pot. On 9/16/25 I noticed the root growth out the bottom of the pot. My wildly unintelligent drain pan setup used bows to space the pot up and they collected runoff, leaving the roots with a nice bath of runoff water to grow into. Learning every week, this week I learned about air-pruning. Went ahead and cut these root growths off, purchased a 1$ Lowes runoff pan, and returned three bowls and a nice Pyrex dish back to the kitchen. About the same time of my root issue, within the next 2 days a good amount of leaves had slight yellow tips...
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@Dabcik
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Piante sane, stretch energico ma cerco di tenerle sotto la rete, temperatura un po’ alta ma sto già risolvendo per abbassarla. Iniziano a spuntare i primi pistilli e a formarsi i primi calici
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Moved the last plant out of the flower room amd positioned the Black Dog plants under the lights. Added my Canadian Redneck version of the scrog and spread out the branches. The plants looked completely different after doing that. This should help immensely. Backed off the veg nutrients a bit and added some bloom to the mix. I did veg nutrients for first week of bloom, then half veg and half bloom for this second week. Straight bloom nutrients for the remainder. I am hopingfor a bigger streach, I will see in the next week or two if this helps. I will keep using molasses. Thanks for looking
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Dia 64 desde la germinación y 36 dias despues del trasplante así lucen de sanas las geneticas de paradise seeds junto con los productos de nutrición y elicitación de terranbis, han crecido bastante en las 5 semanas de trasplante ya pasan de 1,50 m. Seguimos trabajando para obtener los mejores resultados 👊🏼👊🏼🔥
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Good indica dominant strain, with hard and fat nugs ready in around 8 weeks, the buds are heavy but the plant seems to support the weight without any trouble. The strain shows a gassy background with earthy and light citrus smells, with hard buds covered in trichomes. The trimming is amazingly easy due to the hardness of the buds and we almost dont saw any small popcorn buds, we defoliated enough due to the indica appearance of the plant which gives her enough light penetration on the mentioned lower hanging fruits.
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Not an overly impressive strain and I would say she was not that hard to grow. If I even grew this one again I would let it go naturally with some LST. Wanted more grape flavours but they don't really come through in the smoke. There's a bit of a sharp fruity smell that's sort of piney with a hint of fuel at the end. The smoke is not too flavourful in my opinion but that just means I didn't grow it well. Super tight nugs so be careful with humidity as stated above. Also she's a bit of a light feeder so be careful with your nutes. As you can see I burnt her tips and over fed her a lot. Not a bad yield though! I've only really smoked the lowers on this one so far so that gave me a bit of a racey high, just slightly racey. I would accredit that to the lowers not being mature enough at chop. The plant is super dense and since I mainlined it the lowers didn't receive enough light. I tried to let the lowers mature more but the plant stopped maturing when I chopped the tops, this caused stress and the plant just shut down basically. Not sure if I would grow Blimburn's GDP again until I grow the real GDP.
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@Fleetwood
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Wondering how much longer PK1 has before harvest. 80% of her pistils have turned amber. Exploring mid week shows me I have at least another week...maybe 2
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Lots of bud sites , couldn't be any happier how everything is turning out .. with no issues