The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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@yan402
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This two were part of another diary and got moved out due to space reasons at VW8 and moved back indoors at VW20 https://growdiaries.com/diaries/218151-auto-god-s-glue-grow-journal-by-yan402 13.09.25 VW21 Both are looking good and are developing tighter nodes than when they were outside, I'm going to have to keep cutting them back every once and a while I also applied nematodes against thrips and fungus gnats. 20.09.25 VW22 some spots and some yellow leafs, I think it's a root problem, probably root bound, but both seem healthy and are getting thicker so maybe just top up with Coco coir and give a slight different nutrient schedule less Tri Part Bloom could do the trick MAYBE lol. 27.09.25 VW23 Topped up the pots with extra coco coir and trimmed the side roots a bit, both plants were root bound 📹 03.10.25 VW23 did a HST/LST session 📹 12.10.25 VW25 Done a major HST session to try and keep them in line with the Sunset Sherbet GF I have going in the same tent, rest in the video 📹 17.10.25 VW25 ffj/fpj/fish 30 → 60 ml 19.10.25 VW26 it just became a one plant diary, keeping #5, #6 gets it's own diary for testing nutrients. 20.10.25 VW26(?) Feed tweak: added 3 g Calcium Nitrate/ 30 L (≈ 15 ppm N + 10 ppm Ca) 25.10.25 VW26 I'll be repoting tomorrow, 26.10.25 VW27 rest in the video📹 🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱 Day to day tasks & actions 🌿 🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱 25.10.25 VW26 – Fed 5l of #1 → 2l runoff 26.10.25 VW27 -- Fed 3l of #1→ 1l runoff 27.10.25 VW27 -- Fed 3l of #1→ 1l runoff 28.10.25 VW27 -- no feed no water 29.10.25 VW27 -- Fed 5l of #1→ 2l runoff 30.10.25 VW27 -- Fed 5l of #1→ 2l runoff 31.10.25 VW27 -- no feed no water 01.11.25 VW27 -- no feed no water (*RUNOFF reused for tomato plants) 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 Nutrients in 30 L #1 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 TriPart Micro: 10 → 30 → 40 ml = 0.33 → 1.00 → 1.33 ml/L 🍶 TriPart Grow: 0 ml = 0.00 ml/L 💧 TriPart Bloom: 10 → 30 → 20 ml = 0.33 → 1.00 → 0.67 ml/L 💧 Cal-Mag: 60 ml = 2.00 ml/L 🍶 Home-made FFJ/FPJ (new batch): 30 → 60 ml = 1.00 → 2.00 ml/L 🍶 Calcium Nitrate (Calcinit): 3 g ≈ 15 ppm N + 10 ppm Ca 💧 pH Down: Citric acid (BuxXtrade) — adjust to ~pH 6.0 📦 TOTAL: ≈ 160 ml liquids + 3 g solids per 30 L = ~6.0 ml/L active mix 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 ⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️ ✂️ Tools & equipment ✂️ ⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️ ✂️ 2× MarsHydro SP3000 ⚙️ MarsHydro 150mm ACF Ventilator ✂️ Trotec dehumidifier (big unit) ⚙️ Mini no-name dehumidifier ✂️ Kebab skewers (LST – stainless) ⚙️ Wire + roast skewers (LST assist) ✂️ Scissors (HST) ⚙️ Vacuum (for spills & cleanup) ✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️ 🍒🍭🍬🌈🍒🍭🍬🌈🍒🍭🍬🌈🍒 🦄Fantasy Feast ( Seeds)🦄 🌈🍒🍭🍬🌈🍒🍭🍬🌈🍒🍭🍬🌈🍒 Species: Hybrid (Regular) Genetics: The mother is Unicorn Whip by Dirty Bird Genetics. The father is Charcuterie by Cannarado Genetics. Effect: Unknown Mixed effect body and head high Flavor: Some phenos are Skunky gassy fruity, some are fruity sour citrus with a chemical touch and a touch of skunk Flowering: Estimated 8–10 weeks Resistance: Strong — Testing phase done YouTube Link: https://youtube.com/-m8h?si=A7x4Zlr2kj-_ga31
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@GrowGuy97
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Flower day 17 - All the ladies are looking great, starting to see a lot of bud sights & the smell is definitely getting stronger everyday I open the tent! Thanks for following & happy growing friends!🌱✌️🏼 Flower day 19- Got a bigger dehumidifier because I was having problems on days I would water the humidity would go through the roof at night so to prevent mold I bought a bigger dehumidifier but now it is throwing off so much heat the tent is pushing 90 degrees F at some points throughout the day so I’m not exactly sure how to fix the issue! Will definitely not be running so many plants in the next run for the 5x5! Hopefully things get better!😅😅
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She's looking very healthy and strong after the transplant and I'm starting the lst on her too try to make a very nice and rounded bush full of tops. Let's see what happens with beauty, don't miss it! 💚 🌱 ✌️ 👨‍🌾
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@m0use
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This week was good, Did the transplant from 7.5L/2Gal to 28L/7Gal, Stared to do some LST but the main stem broke on two "blue and Red" of the three plants. Kinda sucks but a bit to aggressive, on the third plant "yellow" I also used LST just not as strong and got the shape and placement I was looking for. Will have to wait for the others to heal and then I can try again. IDK how long it will take, but I'll give it a full week. Sucks as the tips will be getting more light then the others. I also ran out of soil so had to make up a half batch as well to top off the pots, got about 8L leftover for transplanting the peppers and what not, tents so full I had to remove the clones and one smaller plant. They are growing in a window now. The extras where Gaia Green All Purpose 4-4-4, Gaia Green Power Bloom 2-8-4, Gaia Green Insect Frass 3-2-4, Gaia Green Seaweed Extract 0-0-17, Bokashi Grains, Epsom Salts, Yeast Powder, Fluvic Acids, Enzymes, Silicon and Multiple Microbes. PH adjusted really low as the amendments have a lot of rock dusts and such, wanted them to be broken down by the time the roots reach em. Watered in with 4L on each container, Should be ok for the first few days, will need to judge how they are doing in a bit and see if their roots are colonizing the new area. no idea how the clones will do outside the tent, Still have them in a plastic bag till I can see roots in the containers they are in. Checking about once a week. My goal is to veg this out for another 3-4 weeks and top it one last time they switch to bloom with a SROG net, should have good coverage and lots of cola sites per plant. Big shoutout to Medic Grow for sponsoring the lighting in my tent, They have provided me with 2x Mini Sun 2's in the 240w configuration, They use the v1 growing spectrum that is a all purpose seed to harvest spectrum so their is no hassle of switching it mid grow. If you interested in learning more about Medic Grow products please visit the web link below. https://medicgrow.com/ https://growdiaries.com/grower/MedicGrowLED
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2 weeks into flower and looking well so far, plants are nice and healthy, added boost to my feed this week started at a low feed and will up it over the next couple of weeks
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Hi all the happy people here in GrowDiaries. This is my second cultivation ever and it will be fun to try a bigger space than my closet grow. First, I'm just going to say I'm done with the construction of my new growroom. I put some pictures on the construction here in week one. The room is 2.14 meters by 1.7 meters and has a ceiling height of 2 meters. It provides a floor area of ​​3.6 square meters. I use a 54 Watt Lightwawe T5 for germination and 2 Pcs 400 Watt HPS lamps. I have a channel fan that replaces the room air about 40 times an hour to get a comfortable theme in the room, the air enters a fresh air intake from the outside. The air is purified through a carbon filter to then leave the room to the rest of the basement. Then I use that heat to heat the rest of the basement. I will use 8 pcs 15 liter Autopots to grow with and a 100 liter water tank that supplies the pots of water and nutrition. I will grow completely organically in soil and will watercure my buds to get the best possible medicine for me. But there are no cultivation rooms to be displayed here, so I continue with what is most important. Today I have put my seeds in my moisture dome and hope the seeds have germinated within a few days. I am very excited to see how the new growroom will work and how this Blue cheese Auto from Royal queen seeds will turn out. Blue Cheese automatic cannabis seeds are a cross of Blueberry Automatic and Cheese Automatic that has been perfected over five years of breeding and careful selection. The result is a feminized, autoflowering strain with superior yield, flavor, and effects to either of its distinguished parent strains. THC: 16% CBD: Low Yield Indoor : 325 - 375 gr/m2 Yield Outdoor: 60 - 110 gr/plant Height Indoor: 40 - 70 cm Height Outdoor: 60 - 110 cm Flowering: 7 - 8 weeks Harvest month: 9-10 weeks after planting Genetic Background: Blueberry x Cheese x Ruderalis Type: Sa 35% In 40% Ru 25% Effect: Cerebral and uplifting Climate: Mild ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 2017-11-10. Week 12 day 3. Starting to see amber trichomes and will start flushing her today. Expecting to harvest two of the 3 girls in one week. Added pics.
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@AsNoriu
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Day 43. Chocolope is going very nice, dence and compact. Still rotate two smallest plants under very decent and CHEAP light, Mars TS1000 is really good deal !!! Most of branches secured, so now only leaf tucking and wire readjustment left. Yesterday gave 2.3 liters of water. Happy Growing !!!
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@Radagast_
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07.08. White Runtz Day 100# The plant was at the end of its fourteenth week two days ago. Since the last update, it hasn't grown in height, at least that's what the meter says, and if it seems to me that it's much bigger than the last update, if it's not taller, it's definitely wider. Although the plant is entering preflower for the second week, it has never really entered and maybe it is because it is focusing on creating future flowers because it was not under any visible stress except for 2-3 minor storms, but it had absolutely no effect on it. The next watering will get bloom and a half dose of boost to try to stimulate flowering. The pictures and video are from yesterday. Stay High and Keep Growing!!!
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@BodyByVio
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Day 65 : officially 1st day of flush . Changed the reservoir with fresh water and 1.2g/5 gallons of Yucca extract and 5ml/gallon of Cleanex from Botanicare . Day 68- I did some defoliate. Few more days until harvest.
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"Mens Dei" What can be made to expand, airy and loose, can also be made to contract, dense and tight. Trichomes do not discriminate, although we like to think of trichomes' primary purpose as being to get us high; they are there to provide photoprotection (sunscreen). Trichomes apply themselves based on area dimensions; the more area = the more trichomes in order to protect. Different from density: Trichomes, the resinous glands on plants, are often produced in response to stress, including high light intensity. This increased production can lead to denser trichome coverage on the plant, stress, stress, stress, stress is the signal. There is a certain beauty in watching the large water-filled buds once swollen to the brim slowly shrink during drying, as the surface areas contract, the trichomes just cluster up to form denser and denser coatings, already dense from high light intensities, UVB exposure, and IPS, and every other stressor I could tweak. Trichomes, the resinous glands on cannabis plants, are often produced in response to various forms of stress. These stresses can be environmental, like excess light(HIL) or UV-B radiation, temperature fluctuations, or drought, or mechanical, such as wind, pruning, or even the weight of the plant's own buds. The plant reacts to these stressors by increasing trichome production as a defensive mechanism to protect itself and its valuable compounds like THC and CBD. In essence, cannabis plants perceive stress as a threat and respond by producing more trichomes as a way to protect themselves and their valuable compounds. Several studies have shown this. Not so much a "master" grower as a master of stress. Psssst. Trichomes fill with "antioxidants," including THC. Ant"ox"idants, The production of antioxidants in plants is intricately linked to their oxidative apparatus. The plant has limited oxidative capacity/apparatus. During daytime photosynthesis, a large percentage of that oxidative capacity is tied up in protecting the plant. During the night, plants alter their metabolic pathways. This leads to a far more focused production of specific antioxidants, like THC. Plants also produce antioxidants during the day to scavenge ROS made from photosynthesis. The differential ROS production by blue and IR light can have significant biological consequences. For example, high levels of ROS induced by blue light can lead to cell damage and death, while lower levels of ROS produced by IR light may be involved in beneficial cellular signaling pathways. Long nights under the IR (very low ROS), the boost in cellular respiration, and the boost in energy production. In a perfect world, I'd give the plant a shock treatment of 60DLI in 4 hours and give her the other 20 hours to perform cellular respiration under IR. The stress of those 4 hours would be rigorous and full of stress abound, 1800-2000ppm CO2 is easy for a couple of hours during daylight, it's maintaining it that's hard, but 4 hours is very doable with nothing but a little extra "carbon sugar" in your medium every other night during the first 4 weeks of flower. In my opinion, you only need to jack CO2 for those first 4 weeks of flower to see maximal output, after that it's all about trichome preservation, everything else comes second. Without the temps to assist with metabolism, CO2 is reduced to normal levels along with temps 4-5th week of flower. Buds are primarily composed of water. Developing flower buds, like other plant tissues, require a significant amount of water for growth and turgor pressure, which helps maintain their structure and firmness. Turgor pressure in plant cells is primarily generated by osmosis, but transpiration plays a crucial role in maintaining it. The optimal internal leaf surface temperature for photosynthesis at 1800-2000ppm CO2 is likely in the upper range of 97°F, meaning ambient would need to sit at 102°F-ish or thereabout for full metabolic utilization. That's putting your transpirational pulling force x5 x6 maybe x7 of what it would be if she were cruising at 68F. "My buds won't fatten, what can I do!!" Crank it. If your purpose was to blow up a balloon as fast as you can, as much as you can, would you use 2x force or x5 Force to do so? Bad analogy, but you get the idea. Kiss. Optimize photosynthesis & VPD by day, cellular respiration by night. TECHNICALLY: "While transpiration and cellular respiration are both ongoing plant processes, they are not neatly separated into day and night. Both processes occur both day and night, though at different rates and with different emphasis. Transpiration, the release of water vapor from plant surfaces, is primarily driven by sunlight and photosynthesis during the day, but it also continues at a lower rate at night. Cellular respiration, which provides energy for the plant, occurs continuously, both day and night. " A leaf can perform cellular respiration and photosynthesis simultaneously. During daylight hours, plant cells utilize both processes: photosynthesis to produce glucose and oxygen, and cellular respiration to break down glucose and release energy for the cell's needs. The products of photosynthesis (glucose and oxygen) are used as reactants in cellular respiration, while the products of cellular respiration (carbon dioxide and water) can be used in photosynthesis. The limiting factor is the oxidative capacity; the less a leaf is utilizing photosynthesis, the less oxidative capacity it uses, and the more it can perform cellular respiration. Even if a leaf is not in an optimal photosynthetic position, it can still utilize respiration to its full capacity during daylight hours. Kinda too much info to explain when some asks if they should defoliate or not, yeah add calmag or some shit. BUT Only 10% ATP can be processed through photosynthesis and carbon capture. 90% of ATP is processed when the plant's oxidative capacity becomes available (NIGHTTIME). Cellular respiration relies on the process of oxidation to generate energy. Specifically, the final stage of cellular respiration, called oxidative phosphorylation, utilizes oxygen as the final electron acceptor to produce a substantial amount of ATP, the cell's primary energy currency. Factors such as oxygen concentration, glucose availability and temperature will all impact the amount of aerobic respiration an organism will perform. See you next grow, *twiddles thumbs*
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Mango, i smell mango 😍 Sticky? It is. Hard buds? Not yet. Not bad for a little bit forgotten Orphan. But Bad news... The strain is sold out for the moment. 21.10. Four days and even nights :) has passed. Lets see how the flower progresses... Have a nice week.
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All done, can't wait to try. So final results are 520gr of quality half solid buds🤩✔️ that's not include the bottom trim and small buds. The whole harvest of 54 trees has the weight 5kg of solid quality buds, and around 2 kg of bottom trim and small buds🤩😶‍🌫️✔️
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@Headies
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So this week after I gave it under nutrients I apparently gave it too much nitrogen while having a potassium deficiency. Shiney dark leaves, So i fixed that, but some didn't bounce back, and I tried nitrogen. I think they are doing pretty good considering everything I've put them through SO FAR. lol. Nutrients are NPK Raw's total lineup, follow their instructions at first, Fastbuds adjustments as of this week.
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I'm definitely a Newby as my g/watt is not that much! I will try and improve. I've learned alot during this grow and I will apply my new found knowledge on the next grow👍
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********Week 9 Vegetation- Sept 12 to 18, 2020******* This will be the last veg week. Flipped to flower cycle at the end of the week:) These girls are pushing out branch Baby!!!! Getting long and keeping them tied down for now. They want to flower and almost aren’t waiting for the lights to switch😃 LST this week on these girls. Getting them ready to put in a SCROG I think. Pull them down for now to start pulling them wider and make it easier to fill in the canopy’s net. Actually, they were only tied down for this week. At the end of the week I removed the ties. There were 4 feed days this week and Advanced Nutrients Bud Ignitor was introduced this week.......getting ready for flower👍 Switch to Bloom nutes next week. Going to finish these girls with Advance Nutrients line this run. I may have to use a supplemental from Green Planet to get through to harvest. This lines bottles are getting closer to a year and a half old now........use em uip👌😃 Not buying more Bud Factor X for example (still have a couple of syringes worth) but rather will add Terpinator and Rezin instead. Little more detail: Sept 12/20 - CalMag @ 2ml, VeloKelp, Vitrathrive @ 1.5ml, AN Sensi Grow A&B @ 1ml - 610ppm and 5.9pH - Each girl given 2L - Pulled out and cleaned up to get ready for netting - Canopy height fairly even today.....little more time to fill in though. Sept 14/20 - Giving them a hearty feeding today with lots of ml’s to rinse off the roots a little more - Sensi CalMag @ 2ml, B52, Microbial Mass @ 1.5ml, Sensi Grow @ 1ml - 880ppm and 5.4pH - Each girl given 4L and they had a nice amount of runoff - maybe 30% this time. Sept 15/20 - Add some sweetener to feed the microbes today,. - Sensi CalMag @ 2ml, Bud Candy, B52 @ 1.5ml - 625ppm and 5.2pH - 2L each for the girls - Leaf colour is a little light so getting the Magnesium up and Nitrogen......that’s why using the heigh nitrogen Advance Nutrients Cal Mag. - pH is a little low but I am cool with it and working on not letting the pH drift too much yet in their run. - They are ready.........they want to flower😃 Sept 17/20 - Bud Ignitor introduced today as we get ready for Flower phase next week. - Sensi CalMag, Sensi Grow A&B, Bud Ignitor, all @ 1ml/L - 485 ppm and 5.7pH - Each girl given 2L - Swtich the light cycle tonight to 12/12 and get the party started👊👍 That takes us to the end of Veg for these two girls. Cheers Growmies and have a great week🙏
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@burnerac
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Day 78: Nothing to report Day 79: Nothing to report Day 80: Added one gallon water with nutrients Day 81: Nothing to report Day 82: Nothing to report Day 83: Nothing to report Day 84: Nothing to report
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8/10 Hurried morning. Today was water day and the hose fucked up. Dad got it working while I filled half the jugs needed with water and the requisite amount of plant doctor. I gave the preventative dose (which is 1/2 tsp per gallon but I upped it closer to 1 tsp per gallon) on the plants that have received the three full treatments, the 10th planet in the middle and the chemdog. The rest received their last full dose. I had watered the NATURAL mk ultra and other tenth planet yesterday so I'm waiting until tomorrow when the need water to give them their treatment. Other than the 10th planet I'm worried things are going pretty good. Tjat's probably tine too. I certainly wouldnt have even noticed it a few years ago. I only bought like half the amount of soil as last year and really tried keeping costs down. These aren't the biggest plants I've grown but I'm grateful for what I have. I'm working hard to get the most out of them I can. I'm planning to give it a few days and then feed later in the week. EDIT: I THINK I got my grow question deleted. Finally. It's strange that I didn't get ONE outdoor growers response. Doesn't matter. I figured out the best course of action. I'm lucky. Or maybe I just work hard. I defoliate twice a day. I have some pruning to do on the interior of a COUPLE plants. I've cleaned them up pretty good this year. No signs of ANY wpm which is great but suprisinging considering the rh and the rolling fog most mornings. 8/11 I gave the tenth planet in the back and the mk ultra I didn't get yesterday. The mk ultra got the preventative dose (upped from 1/2tsp to 1tsp) and the 10th planet tge full dose. I'll have to check but I think this is the last cure dose for everyone. Found a pillar INSIDE a bud on the special kush that's far ahead. Then you can see on the video a HUGE cut worm or something on the branch I pull down. Luckily I saw it. Wasn't there when I got back but it took a few bites. Looked on the camera and saw a bird swoop in and grab him. Thank the lord! It's going to be 100° today and tomorrow with heat advisory in effect. I'm going to have to treat these plants for pests/pillars some how. I might just use BT and my super alkaline water. The septoria is under control and I'm just afraid spraying anything would make things worse. I'm certainly jot going to let them eat my early flowering plant. I can't apply ANYTHING in this heat. I'll research and maybe if it gets low enough tonight I might be able to do something. I'm going to go back over and check that plant going branch by branch. That one 10th planet tgat WAS the biggest plant is severely stunted amd has some "strange" looking leaves. I wasthinking about getting it off property or just chopping and burning but I figure it's been in there long enough that the others could be infected. I think it spreads through pests if that's the case then it might be better to get rid of it. I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. I'm going to stop and try to get some mulch today. EDIT: I found a place I can get a bale of straw and I think I'll use that to mulch. It's almost a 100°. After killing the pillar this morning and missing that cutworm I came back over to REALLY look at the special kush in later flower. I looked through every branch and every bud. I found four pillars on that plant. No REAL damage yet and extremely small. I had to pull buds apart to find them. It's like they were hiding from the heat. That was miserable hand picking them in 100° degree weather. Luckily the bird feeders are close but the bigger birds chase the smaller ones. The smaller birds have found a new food source and perch on my cage waiting. I'm leaning towards treating the flowering plant with BT-k. Seeing that tge citric acid WON'T kill fungus I'll just use OUR super alkaline water and hope for the best. Nothing will get treated during this weather. 8/11 IT reached 105° yesterday and I had a family medical emergency. Came over this morning to several plants drooped right over despite me checking MD day and them being fine. Phone dodnt charge so I couldn't get pictures. Watered everything but the ones that got it yesterday cause they looked good and still had weight. I had to leave before the ones that were down could pick back up. The kush plants seem to tolerate this heat much better. Beside the ones in the 10s tge others are taking this hear fine. I'll update when I get back. EDIT: Went back over around 10. Another hot day. Suppised to be HOTTER than yesterday. I don't know how that's possible. both our thermometers went to 104 lately. Oh and I dont think that's beet curly top virus I think it's just great stress! I've grown this strain before and it's not the most resilient but it's other qualities make up for that. That's a loud off. I checked most buds on the plant in late flower and found a grass hopper IN the cola! No damage that I could see and I flicked him in the head which killed it. I came back to the chemdog that I didn't water drooping. I watered that and the 10th planet I didn't get this morning. The only one that hasn't got water today was the natural mk ultra and when I was there it was still heavy and looked really good so I left it. I'll have to come back around four and check things out. I'll be watering that tonight for sure. It will be hot tomorrow too then it will be better weather. I need to feed but I'm uncertain whether I should in this heat. All the kush strains I'm running are have Hindu kush as a parent and seem to be able to take the heat no problem. We don't get heat like this usually. It's different when it's 100° and 99% rh than dry heat.