The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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@GEORGE_21
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Defolié por tercera vez, 6 o. 7 días después de la segunda, y que creo que fue un error garrafal :/ bajo el consumo de agua a 500 diario y comenzó a florar sin fuerza ( según lo que veo), además de quedar estresada un tiempo, errores para poder seguir mejorando.
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Legend Timestamp: 📅 EC - pH: ⚗️ Temp - Hum: 🌡️ Water: 🌊 Food: 🍗 pH Correction: 💧 Actions: 💼 Thoughts: 🧠 Events: 🚀 Media: 🎬 D: DAY, G: GERMINATION, V: VEGETATIVE, B: BLOOMING, R: RIPENING, D: DRYING, C: CURING ________________________________ 📅 D84/B22 - 07/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 1 pH: 5.0 🌡️ T: 19-26 °C H: 55-65 % 🌊 8L 🍗 CalMag - Bloom A-B - B52 - Bud Candy - Big Bud 💧 💼 🧠 The VPD rate was stable on the right value for all the day ! Great, and many thanks to TrolMaster Tent-X ! 🚀 🎬 Added Timelapse video and screenshots ________________________________ 📅 D85/B23 - 08/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.8 pH: 5.2 🌡️ T: 19- 24 °C H: 45-80 % 🌊 2L 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 I'm lowering down the EC as I see signs of burns on tips 🚀 Humidity went out of control for about 2h 🎬 I made a photoset with "Garlic Puppy" enjoy the pictures 😋. Added Timelapse video and screenshots ________________________________ 📅 D86/B24 - 09/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.8 pH: 5.2 🌡️ T: 20-26 °C H: 50-70 % 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 Little defolation 🧠 🚀 🎬 Added Timelapse video and screenshots ________________________________ 📅 D87/B25 - 10/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.8 pH: 5.2 🌡️ T: 22-24 °C H: 55-65 % 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 Little Defolation 🧠 The buds are forming 🚀 Today VPD was very stable 🎬 Added Timelapse video ________________________________ 📅 D88/B26 - 11/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.7 pH: 5.2 🌡️ T: 20-25 °C H: 50-77 % 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 Little Defolation 🧠 🚀 Humidity went out of control for about 2h 🎬 Added 8 pics of Nicole, the timelapse video and the screenshots ________________________________ 📅 D89/B27 - 12/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.7 pH: 5.5 🌡️ T: 19-25 °C H: 50-70 % 🌊 4L 🍗 CalMag - Bloom A-B - B52 - Bud Candy - Big Bud 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 Added timelapse video and screenshots ________________________________ 📅 D90/B28 - 13/02/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.9 pH: 5.8 🌡️ T: 19-25 °C H: 50-70 % 🌊 4L 🍗 CalMag - Bloom A-B - B52 - Bud Candy - Big Bud 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 Added timelapse video and screenshots
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@BudXs
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Well fuck me sideways, SBG may have been right. A noticeably large cola exists between these 2 test plants, and it looks to belong to non defo. ... I may have fucked up, but lets wait to find out!!!! Thanks for looking
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third week of life with this gorilla king auto from KANNABIASEED company it grows very very quickly @kannabiassed
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@Trichoma
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@ 1.5 kPa Plants are really thirsty right now already missed optimal watering windows because of that.
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🍋🍊 Lemon Orange #1 - #4 🍊🍋 First time diving into the Lemon Orange grow, and the excitement is real! 🙌 As a huge fan of Green House Seed Company, choosing this strain for the first cultivation is a dream come true. Strain Information: Lemon Orange (Super Lemon Haze x Clementine) Genetics: Super Lemon Haze x Clementine Type: 70% Sativa - 30% Indica THC: 29.50% | CBD: 0.20% | CBN: 0.36% Effects: Balanced euphoria with a sweet head buzz, courtesy of citrusy terpenes and an earthy background. Flowering (Indoor): 9 weeks, High Yield Harvest (Outdoor): 4th Week of September, 170 - 200 cm height, 800g/plant yield Awards: 2nd Place Homegrown CUP 2021 Super thrilled with the progress so far—this Lemon Orange plant is growing like crazy with no issues. Germination & Veg Timeline: 🍊 Day 1: Seeds hit the scene, into cotton pads for that cozy germination kickoff. 🍊 Day 3: Transferred to small rockwool cubes, enjoying a splash of RO water at a perfect pH 5.5. 🍊 Day 6: Celebration time! Started feeding nutrients by Terra Aquatica with the first true leaves emerging. Used 80% of the recommended dose. Noticed a hint of calcium deficiency, so switched to dechlorinated tap water. 🍊 Day 9: Upped the game, into large rockwool cubes (15x15 cm). The roots are spreading their wings. 🍊 Day 12: Nutrient dance continues. Adjusted the ratio to the Growing phase, still giving 80% of the recommended amount. pH is grooving at 5.8. 🍊 Day 24: It's topping day! Right between the 4th and 5th nodes, shaping the plant for greatness. 🍊 Day 27: Time for a scrog net to guide those branches into a harmonious canopy. And now, the grand finale of veg 🍊 Day 36: Last day of veg. The Lemon Orange #1 - #4 has been a joy to nurture. Ready to witness the flowering stage unfold. 🌸💚
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@Ensign420
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Week 02 Introduction This week has been a bit of a struggle. Had my first experience dealing with slime and brown algae. But I think adding enzymes and increasing the beneficial bacteria helped to fix the issue. Also experienced nutrient burn for the first time. My nutrient solution strength got as high as 671 PPMs. So backed it down to about 430 PPMs during the end-of-week reservoir change. Also cut Hydroguard (expired?), CaliMagic, and Superthrive from this grow. Now she's still stunted, but is starting to recover. Hopefully... [START OF WEEK 02] Day 01 - Monday - 08/10/20 - Total Days: 008 ----------------------------------- - [0830]: Still looks a bit yellow. But getting larger! --- Solution strength was at 248 PPMs. --- Just topped off with a bit of distilled water --- PH went up to 6.1 so PH'd down to 5.8 --- Ran the top feed for a bit to wet the hydroton. - [2130]: She's looking even more yellow now. --- Even the new leaves are really yellow. --- Decided to add more base nutes. --- Added 4ml of Sensi A --- Added 4ml of Sensi B --- Now at about --- Solution Strength went up to 304 PPM. --- PH was at 6, --- Also raised the water level a bit more. --- I really hope it's a nutrient deficiency and not an over-watering issue. --- Please live! Day 02 - Tuesday - 08/11/20 - Total Days: 009 ----------------------------------- - [0830]: Looking less droopy. But still yellow. --- Decided to do a reservoir change. --- 4.5gal of distilled water --- 8ml of Sensi Grow A --- 8ml of Sensi Grow B --- 8ml of Voodoo Juice --- 4ml of B-52 --- 4ml of CaliMagic --- 4ml of Hydroguard --- 4 drops of Superthrive --- PH'd down to 5.8 --- Solution strength: 302 PPM --- Since I didn't want to risk over-watering the rockwool, I did not to do a top feed, may do one tonight after the sleep cycle (lights are still set to go off at 10am and back on at 4pm). --- As I was doing a reservoir change, I noticed that the tubes and bucket were a bit slimy. Didn't really stink or anything. Is this normal? Maybe due to the Hydroguard and Voodoo Juice? --- I hope she gets better soon! - [2215]: Getting larger! But still yellow. --- Also can see a root growing through the net pot! Tiny little thing but it's there! Will have to start dropping water once more appear. --- After looking over a few DWC diaries using AN nutes, seems like my solution strength is still too low. Most around this stage average around 500 PPMs with about 4ml per gallon. --- Top fed for a minute to wet the top of the hydroton. --- Solution strength went down to 263 PPM. --- Added 8ml more of Sensi A --- Added 8ml more of Sensi B --- Now base nutes are at 16ml for 4.5 gal of water. --- PPMs went up to 411. --- Still lower than 500 PPMs, but that's okay. --- PH was at 6. Not sure if I should adjust PH using AN nutes. So going to not ajdust unless PH goes above 6.1. Day 03 - Wednesday - 08/12/20 - Total Days: 010 ----------------------------------- - [0830]: Looks like more root growth! --- She still looks yellow. But leaves are perky. --- PH was at 6.2 so lowered down to 5.8. --- Solution strength was at 394 PPMs --- Since roots are still growing, I decide to lower the water level a bit. Now water level is a bit below the net pot. - [2200]: Root is getting longer! --- Slime is returning. Not sure why. --- Solution strength: 357 PPMs --- PH: 6.1 --- Decided to add an enzyme along with more beneficial bacteria to hopefully cure the slime. --- Added 16ml of Sensizym --- Added 5ml of Hydroguard --- Added 8ml of Voodoo Juice --- New solution strength: 430 PPMs --- New PH: 6.1 --- Top fed for a minute. --- This slimy residue is really freaking me out! I hope the added enzymes will help eliminate the slime. --- Going to do a full reservoir sterilization/nutrient change over the weekend. Please survive until then girl! Day 04 - Thursday - 08/13/20 - Total Days: 011 ----------------------------------- - [0930]: I think the enzymes worked! There is little to no slime now! --- Although I think the root was also dissolved in the process. It's now just a little stub sticking just below the net pot. The enzyme is also suppose to dissolved dead roots too but guess that root was too weak? Not sure what happened there. But I think the slime is cured! --- Solution strength went down to 395 PPMs. Decided to add more base nutrients. --- Added 8ml of Sensi A --- Added 8ml of Sensi B --- Added 4ml of B-52 --- Solution strength went up to 598 PPMs. --- PH was at 6.1 --- As long as the PH is between 5.5 and 6.3, I'm not going to use PH Up or Down. But still will monitor PH levels. - [1715]: Checked up on her after her nap and shes looking alive but stunted. But no slime! --- Decided to add some sugars to help maintain the enzymes and beneficial bacteria. --- Solution strength was at 587 PPMs. --- PH was at 6.2 --- Added 8ml of Bud Candy --- Solution strength went up to 671 PPMs. --- PH also went up to 6.3 --- Lowered water level a bit to hopefully promote more root growth. --- Top fed for a minute. --- She is getting bigger, but still looks yellow. Day 05 - Friday - 08/14/20 - Total Days: 012 ----------------------------------- - [0915]: Leaves look a little burnt on the tips. Still no slime. --- Going to back off on the PPMs to hopefully fix the nutrient toxicity. --- Solution strength was at 632 PPMs --- PH was at 6.3 --- Added/Removed water until PPMs were at 536. --- PH was still at 6.3 --- Raised water up a bit, then top fed for a minute. - [2200]: Looking better. Still yellow though. --- Solution strength: 514 PPMs --- PH: 6.5 --- Added PH down. --- New solution strength: 518 PPMs --- New PH: 5.2 --- PH was kind of high. So decided to PH down. Had to use quite a bit to bring it down. But eventually got it to drop down to 5.3. A little low, but so far, the PH has always gone up so wanted to start it really low. --- Ran the top feed for a minute to re-saturate the top of the hydroton. Day 06 - Saturday - 08/15/20 - Total Days: 013 ----------------------------------- - [0830]: She looks stunted. leaves are still yellow. --- Solution strength: 514 PPMs --- PH: 5.6 --- Top fed for a minute. --- Not sure what to do at this point. Going to do another reservoir change soon. Hoping she lives until then. - [2145]: Looking pretty much the same. --- A bit of slime has returned. Since I've been diluting the nutrient solution, the enzyme ratio has dropped. So I guess this is expected. --- Also noticed that slime build up was on the air-stones. Never really checked the stones so not sure how long that has been there. Looks brown too, which can't be good. --- Going to do an H202 sterilization of the system (minus the net pot) tomorrow so did not add anything. --- Lowered the water level to below the net pot. --- Then top fed for a minute. Day 07 - Sunday - 08/16/20 - Total Days: 014 ----------------------------------- - [0900]: STERILIZATION DAY! --- Decided to skip today's night cycle for a deep clean. --- I'm hoping that skipping a night cycle won't be too stressful. --- Temporarily moved her to a new bucket. --- Used about a half of gallon of straight distilled water to flush out the net pot. --- Drained the system and wiped up all the brown sludge. Also removed the air stones and cleaned up all the goo. --- Filled the system with 2 gallons of distilled water and at least 30ml of food grade hydrogen peroxide (35% strength). --- Yea its a lot, but since I'm not going to sterilize the system overnight, I went with a really high doseage. Basically I kept adding until I started to see little bubbles start to form. --- Then I ran the water pump. - [0915]: Boiled the air stones in tap water for about 10 min. Then reconnected them to the airlines. --- I let the air stones and hose soak in the sterilization solution for about 5 minutes so the peroxide can absorb into the stones. Then ran the air stone to help mix and agitate the solution. --- Occasionally, I'd repeat the process of turning the air pump off for a few minutes to let the stones soak. - [1000]: Covered the top two row of holes of the net pot with some aluminum tape. Hopefully this solves the light leaking in through the hydroton. - [1200]: Used an old toothbrush and scrubbed the pump clean. Then drained the system. --- Refilled with more distilled water and peroxide. Again added a lot. --- Ran system again to sterilize even more. - [1530]: Drained the system and refilled with distilled water to rinse. --- Ran the system for a few minutes, then drained and rinsed again. --- Did this a few more times over about an hour. - [1630]: Added 4 gallons of fresh distilled water. --- Added 15ml Sensi Grow A --- Added 15ml Sensi Grow B --- Added 12ml of B-52 --- Added 16ml of Voodoo Juice --- Added 16ml Sensizym --- Solution strength was at 430 PPMs --- PH was at 5.6 --- I was going to add Hydroguard, but I think the bottle is expired. Since 2017 or 2018!? I think Hydroguard is good for up to 2 years from the date on the bottle or 6 months after opening. So not going to use from now on. I wonder if this could have contributed to the slime build up. --- Also removed the CaliMagic and Superthrive too. Going to only use AN products to eliminate the chance of incompatible nutrients. --- Placed her back in the bucket and top fed for a minute. --- Here's hoping for the best. Going to let it ride until morning! Please feel better! [END OF WEEK 02]
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@SgtDoofy
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June 21 Fed less than a half gallon of water yesterday evening. Getting really big now! Gonna step up the LST to help keep the size managed.
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Day 9: Diagnosis: Slight Nutrient Burn, Growth Normal. Treatment: Feeding Cal-Mg tomorrow Day 12: 👍🏾(Looking Good!)
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Today on day 17 from date of birth Iam preparing a worm casting tea. In a cheese cloth bag ,Made up of 2 cups of worm castings 2 tablespoons of unsulfured molasses,2 tablespoons of mineralized phosphate (bat shit) ,2 tablespoons of soluble seaweed extract . 2 tablespoons of alfalfa meal 2 tablespoons of all purpose 4-4-4 all Gia green products other than. I also sprinkled in some great white premium mycorrhizae inton2 gallons of water. Tea will brew for 24 hours before applying.
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@Encuentra
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20/11 : F+10 22.11 : 1 L of water 24.11: ras 26.11 : 0.75L of fertilizer. No more insects, humidifier + water spray worked :D 27.11 : nothing, ras
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I had a problem with the phone, but I voted! this is my lavender best from bulkseedsbank now I'm back 🇧🇷🇧🇷
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@FarmZOG
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This one was a monster of plant she took the 140x70 cm like a real champ. Sexy frosty dense buds with a beautiful blue/Grey shadow This one can really be the champ of this season 💚
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So, das war die letzte Woche, nun hängt die eine zum trocknen, die andere ist im trocken Netz, leider musste die 1. Von den 3 Zwittern, somit hab ich hier und da nen Samen mit drin.