Vote Now 🏆 for the Grow Awards 2025!
Recommended
Likes
Comments
Share
You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
Likes
Comments
Share
Jan 24 1 seed in water Jan 25 Paper towel Jan 30 Still no sign of life. Soaking another seed Feb 2 #2 cracked open But paper towel got dry twice at night so I'm not sure it will live Feb 5: planted the seed anyway... We'll see. Update Feb 17: no sign of life I planted #1 anyway in a small container. It sprouted eventually!!! Yeah!!!! Feb 8:
Likes
Comments
Share
@BruWeed
Follow
Se encuentra perfecta. Los cocos ya estan mas gordos y con bastantes tricomas. Su crecimiento es normal, para estar en la semana en la que esta los cocos estan normales. Le subi los ml de los fertilizantes y los cocos se desarrollan mejor de una semana a otra. Por el momento se encuentra bien sin ningún problema. Tiene mucho aroma a weed y dulce.
Likes
10
Share
02/17/25: This grow has been a frustrating one so far. Two of the four seedlings that sprouted didn’t make it, failing to grow beyond their initial stage. That left me with just two plants, and even they have been growing at an unusually slow pace. Nearly three weeks since germination, they have only just started to reach what I would consider the vegetative stage—far behind where I expected them to be at this point. For most of this time, their growth appeared completely stalled. They remained under the same light and propagation dome, and I hadn't needed to water them once since initially planting them. The medium retained moisture well, and they weren’t drying out, yet they showed no real signs of development. About a week ago, I decided to give them a small amount of water and a light dose of nutrients, hoping to encourage some movement. For several days, there was no immediate response, and I wasn’t even sure if the feeding had made any difference. However, two days ago, I finally noticed some significant changes—they had started to grow again. At this point, it’s unclear if the recent progress is a direct result of the added nutrients or if something else triggered the shift. Either way, they are still far behind schedule, and transplanting isn’t even close to necessary yet. If they continue at this pace, they might still be in this state by the time of my next update. For now, I’ll keep observing their progress and will check back in if anything noteworthy happens before next week. This grow has been nothing but frustrating so far, but I haven’t given up on it yet.
Likes
Comments
Share
In a 3 gallon container, I mixed - pro mix organic vegetable + Worm casting + Sea compost + 450 ml ollas (blue one)
Likes
Comments
Share
Likes
2
Share
Mid week last week I cut down the inferior PGC. I needed some and it looked done and wasn’t responding to water really. Anyway the buds looked good and get me kinda high. About 1oz smokable buds. This was in 2 gal so not very big. Curing will help. I pressed some into rosin at about day 6 of drying and turned out pretty well. The plant still alive is much better imo and buds should be fire , prob won’t press it
Likes
3
Share
@SpliffDoc
Follow
Well, the autopot is working. Who knew life could be this simple hahaha. This week the plant has just exploded, they usually do around day 21 but jeeez, in the space of 3 days shes grown a fair pair of shoulders 🤣 Going to change the res and up the nutrients slightly tonight so hopefully she goes from strength to strength. Let's go 👌🏻👌🏻 Fast buds are easily the most fun Autos to grow.
Likes
Comments
Share
I’m back at it again with my sponsor Crossbone Genetics. I popped 15 beans 5 out of each pack and 11 made it off to a good start let’s keep going and see how these girls prod
Likes
Comments
Share
I’m back at it again with my sponsor Crossbone Genetics. I popped 15 beans 5 out of each pack and 11 made it off to a good start let’s keep going and see how these girls prod
Likes
Comments
Share
Likes
Comments
Share
Likes
Comments
Share
@BruWeed
Follow
Se encuentra perfecta, sin ningún problema en toda su etapa. Los cocos estan grandes y bastantes desarrollados aunque no se encuentra ni el 50% ambar los pistillos. Su aroma es fuerte, esta muy resinosa. En estos dias estare publicando mas imágenes de como viene.
Likes
2
Share
@Growitmo
Follow
I use the shot glass method where you soak the seeds for 24 to 48 hours or until you see the taproot crack the seed open then this is the next few days. This video was made on 3 February and these seeds went into their pots on January 31, 2025 so in the next few days they sprouted and this is what they look like.😎
Likes
1
Share
Este video es del día 42 de vida de la Blue Mazar Auto. Regué 3/4 de bokashi de flora y 1/4 de bokashi de vege de Vamp. También usé 25 ML de Vampimelaza y Micorrizas de Namasté. Viene muy bien, compacta y frondosa. Ya de a poco empieza tímidamente a mostrar los primeros tricomas.
Likes
Comments
Share
@Terpage
Follow
Likes
Comments
Share
@Terpage
Follow
I wanted to start these auto seeds directly in soil like I had the Sp Queen 1 to avoid any stunting or hold ups, but in doing so I shockingly somehow lost my 1st Ogreberry king band seed in an 18 GAL pot lol. I accidently nudged the markers I used to indicate where the seed had been sewed. I searched for it for about an hr, gave up, stewed in my bewildered dismay—came back a little later for another 20 mins and had all but given up when I somehow found it and transported all 3 seeds to a wet paper towel. Now that all 3 have popped there's much less chance for the seed to rot or fall too deep in the soil and fail, so they are going directly into their final pots. In the future, when growing auto's (if I ever grow autos again) I will avoid this by using this paper towl method or by using starting pucks that can be placed directly into the soil. The next morning I checked if they had shucked their seed casing yet and all 3 were still stuck so I released them from their prisons and planted them again. I think this is the 3rd time I've planted these seeds—lets hope they take off in their 7gal, 7 gal, and 18 gal homes. Feb 20th Woke to a stagnant ogreberry, popping another. The seed is simply failing to start— I should have done this 3 days ago when I noticed the stunted tail. The second ogreberry seed has the same stunted tail issue and translucent cotyledon that the 1st seed had. Im starting my 3rd and final seed in the pack Feb 22nd—hopefully she takes today as the ogreberry is a slower grower thn the whiskey zulus. Feb 23rd: the final Ogreberry has failed in the same way as the 1st two seeds. The whole pack died due to some weird genetic issue that stunted the tap roots and made the top cotyledon discolored. 0/3 seeds is not how I wanted this pack to go—I was really looking forward to Ogreberry, what an absolute shame. I emailed them explaining the problem with the pack and they responded very quickly (good) saying they are happy the seeds popped (lol) and that I may have killed the seeds by "dampening off" which I was completely unfamiliar with and had to look up. I guess they meant "damping off" If that were the problem the whiskey zulu freebies and RQS special queen 1 (with far inferior genetics) would have perished as well. I've used the same propagation method and soil with all of these plants. Additionally, I've inoculated my soil with microbe complete by Rootwise which takes care of any fungal or microbial issues.
Likes
2
Share
@Gram_Solo
Follow
Week 2 Think there's still signs of overwatering from solo cups being dodgy, the leaves were turning abit yellow I have transplanted into 5 gallon now and they should be getting air, will let it dry out for a few days before watering again. Should see leaf colour healing now
Likes
3
Share
@sellem
Follow
All sprouted and broke through soil! Disclaimer for the whole run: I started naming them for my ease of documenting, "BPP #2" also sounds kinda whack. Three are named after Valkyries, not because of any whacky political affiliation, just because i like the sound of the names. One is named after someone special :) Also, from here on out, BPP = Banana Purple Punch, LCC = Lemon Cherry Cookies Stay tuned for more! 11/02 First Watering, 100ml with 4 ml/L of rootjuice. will ramp up dosage quickly once the dome comes off, hopefully in the evening when my humidifier arrives! 13/02 Watering! 300 ml with 4ml/L of rootjuice 14/02 VPD dialed in at around ~0,62-0,65 kPa. Size: Cara, Eir, Herja = 5 cm, Gunnr 7 cm 15/02 Watering, 500 ml, 4ml/L rootjuice, 1ml/L Grow