The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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@Roberts
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A little over a week in the fade. She is just starting to show deficiency signs a little. Will likely be harvesting next week. Got some beautiful frosty buds, that smell amazing. Thanks again fast buds Thank you grow diaries community for the likes, follows, and all of my YouTube channel subscribers. I greatly appreciate the support, and glad to help others when I can. Happy growing 🌱🌱🌱
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@Fatnastyz
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Week 4 Flower 6-5 Day 52 from seed. Bit slow on this week updating. But she hasn't missed a step, even if I have! She smells great! I'm really digging the gas and stink from her. Already got my mouth watering 🤤. Top dressed flower girl 1/4 cup poo and sprinkled a little mykos in with it, watered with recharge Sunday, reg water on Tuesday. Took my ecowitt to 14% in 2 days. After a full water. 😁 Opened the tent for air. Last week vpd has been between 1.5-1.6. moved up from 1.3-1.5. She seems to be ok with it so far!
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Week 21 for Black Lebanon by SSSC Shes been doing alright no real issues no pests/ no bud rot. Now just to watch her bulk up her flower size. Not watering the plants whatsoever with this weather. Weather has been terrible just storms after storms of heavy rain 😐 dark clouds not much sun, we still have more rain coming with highest of 21 degrees...😒
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@NYGROW
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One more week and then harvest she is not a big plant but definitely super frosty
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Alcapulco Gold plants (3) are between 12”-14” and still receiving only pH balanced H2O. The other 2 strains are receiving nutrients listed above.
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7/27 My phone ran out of storage and wouldn't let me take a video. I tried deleting several other videos bit that didn't work either. Finally I wad able to upload a few RANDOM pictures from the "website" camera. But no video. Everything looked so beautiful tjis morning too. Not watering was the right choice. I defoliated a couple septoria leaves on the reveg 10th planet that wad about to receive its third dose of Plant Doctor. The chem dog #4 and mk ultra this will be their second treatment. Seeing the positive impact of the product and finding a few septoria leaves I decided to treat every plant in the garden with plant doctor. I'm still going to do the diy Dr. Zymes but Plant Doctor had been working good and I want to suppress as much as possible. Everything looks great. I started by giving the thirstiest plants a half gallon of water. I then did a root drench of 3tsp per gallon on every plant but the 10gal. A gallon of solution was used on each plant. I really feel like this is a good mood. Previously AFTER I applied Plant Doctor the plants would have a noticeable positive effect shortly after. I'm hoping this will be the case here. I think stretch has stopped. I have one special Kush that has buds already but EVERYTHING is in early flower. I'll fix the phone and get a video up there. EDIT: WENT BACK AROUND ONE TO DO A LITTLE DEFOLIATION. EVERYTHING LOOKS REALLY GOOD TO ME. I DID DEFOLIATE A COUPLE SEPTORIA LEAVES. BUT REMOVING A LEAF OR TWO FROM A MONSTER REVEG IS NOTHING. REALISTICALLY I SHOULD BE REMOVING MORE FOR BETTER AIR FLOW. THATS SOMETHING ILL NEED TO DO. SO HAPPY THINGS ARE DOING GOOD. EVERYTHING IS IN VARIOUS STAGES OF FLOWER. NEXT FEED ILL BE USING A BLOOM NUTRIENT. NOT SURE BUT PROBABLY LIQUID KOOL BLOOM. 7/28 Didn't have much time this morning. I've got a wife with medical problems and I'm trying to redue my house before the end of the summer so I'm busy to say the least. Still no pm. Not many pests either. The rose bushes behind them have been DEMOLISHED by jpn beetles. I see no negative active reactions from treating everything with plant doctor 3tsp/gallon. The first plant I treated with it was that 10th planet and its gotten three treatments and looks great. I'll get a spot here or there once in a while but for the most part it's supressed. I have some pruning to do. Everything os in early flower but that one special kush is pretty far ahead. EDIT: SINCE IT WAS MID 80S I WENT OVER AROUND 1 TO CHECK THE GIRLS. THEY LOOKED GREAT. I DEFOLIATED A COUPLE SEPTORIA LEAVES BUT ONLY A COUPLE. I STOPPED AT A LOCAL SHOP AND SHOWED MY BUDDY A VIDEO. HE SAID TO NEVER SPRAY ANYTHING WITH LEAF SEPTORIA WITH "ANYTHING" BECAUSE OF HOW IT SPREADS. I DIDNT MENTION THE CONTRADICTORY EVIDENCE THAT I'VE FOUND IN MY RESEARCH BUT HEY. HE HASNT LED ME WRONG. PLANT DOCTOR SEEMS TO BE DOING THE JOB. THAT AND DEFOLIATING ANYTHING I SEE. IVE WORKED TOO HARD TO LOSE THEM TO A DISEASE THAT MAINLY EFFECTS THE LEAVES. PLANT DOCTOR WILL KEEP IT SUPPRESSED. 7/29 Today is supposed to be really hot. In the 90's. I watered everything a gallon except the thirstier plants got 1.5 and the 10's got 1/2 gallon. I defoliated a few septoria leaves. I'm sure there will be a few more after watering. Instead of alleviating my concerns my buddy kinda got in my head with the septoria talk. Things will be fine. Everything LOOKS gorgeous. He even said, "They look really good and healthy" and "not to get complacent defoliating." The plant in the 50 seems to be worse off than the others. I'll keep an eye on it but if I got spots near the sugar leaves I might just cut that little runt. This was all preventable too. Person mowing the lawn BLEW DISEASED GRASS, SHRUBS AND BIRD SEED IN MY CAGE RIGHT AFTER TRANSPLANT. I legit had to dig out at least a dozen sunflowers or other seeds that sprouted. Realistically things will be fine. The plant I've been treating for three weeks with plant doctor looks great. So do the others. Everything looks good. I just get occasional leaves I previously would've overlooked or attributed to something else. As long as I can keep it suppressed enough through flower I'm good. Anything that isn't good enough will go towards extracts. EDIT: WENT OVER AROUND ONE. A COUPLE PLANTS IN TJE BACK THAT I WATERED FASTER WERE LIGHT SO I SPLIT A GALLON WITH THEM. THE 10TH PLANET THAT HAS GOTTEN THE FULL PLANT DOCTOR TREATMENT IS DOING AWESOME. I DID HAVE TO DEFOLIATE A HANDFUL OF LEAVES. HONESTLY I THINK IVE PROBABLY HAD THIS YEARS PRIOR AND DIDNT RECOGNIZE IT. IM PRAYING EVERYTHING WORKS OUT. IM DOING MY PART. I'M GOING TO HAVE TO DO SOME MORE RESEARCH. 7/30 Came over to the 10th planet plant in the front row all the way in the back was drooped all down and is yellowing up pretty good. I defoliated what I could and gave it a gallon and a half of water. I defoliated any sep leaves I could find. If that plant foesnt pick up like they normally do I may need to ditch the plant. If it continues to get yellow and look unhealthy I'd rather get rid of it than risk more damage. It was light as a feather so I assume it will be fine. I'll update as I go. Everything else looked good though. EDIT: DESPITE IMMENSE ANXIETY I GOT THAT FEELING SO I WENT AND CHECKED THEM. THE ONE I WATERED DID PICK BACK UP BUT IT HAS A LOT OF YELLOW LEAVES. THE 10TH PLANET THATS DOING GOOD WAS BONE DRY AND STARTING TO DROOP. I GAVE IT 1.5 GALLONS. THE HUGE MK ULTRA ALSO WAS STARTING TO DROP AND LIGHT AS A FEATHER. I GAVE THAT A FULL WATERING CAN WHICH IS DAMN NEAR 2 GALLONS. THE REST WILL GET WATERED TOMORROW. NO SIGN OF SEP THIS TIME. I WASNT THERE LONG BUT STILL. THE OTHER PLANTS WERE LOOKING GOOD AND ALL PRAYING TO THE SUN. TOMORROW ILL WATER AND FEED.
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@Hontsa
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Better weather and suddenly it grows nicely...☀️💪🌱🍀
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This week, I started using Plagron Green Sensation. Independently of that, the plant began to show slight deficiency symptoms in its foliage. The leaves became increasingly pale, and the tips started to discolor. As far as I understand, one of the components of Green Sensation is potassium. Since then, the plants have been doing significantly better. Growth has also increased considerably. However, the pre-flowering phase is still progressing slowly.Runtz has been an amazing genetic so far. The leaves look absolutely fantastic—healthy and large.Currently, the plant has reached a height of 75 cm, which is quite a lot by my standards, despite the high PPFD values of 600-700 µmol.
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From previous experience, the next week should really fatten these buds. My last two feedings were PH water because I saw some slight tip burn. There is some trics starting to build up now but at this point I know she will not be crippler. When it is time, I plan to really fade her out and off nutrients. There is still new growth at the tops of each cola and I think these will be the biggest ones I have grown so far. She looks healthy and happy so far but is slowwwwwww.
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@Ninjabuds
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My gas tax plant is looking absolutely incredible right now. It's got these massive buds that are super dense and have this awesome dark color to the leaves. I'm so excited to see how it turns out when it's finally ready to be harvested. I've been checking the height, the thickness of the stem, and the density of the buds to get an idea of how much longer I have to wait. I think I might start flushing it soon. The past few weeks have been so beautiful, watching the plants grow and change. It's amazing how something so small and fragile can turn into something so strong and vibrant. Now that they're getting ready to bloom, it feels a little bittersweet. I'm so excited to see the finished product, but I'll definitely miss having them around while they're growing.
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@Fabhz
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This plant has recovered 80% of the mistakes I made during its process, but I have also learned a lot and I believe that growing has become a new hobby for me.
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@Cowboy
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I over water this past week but got back on track ,it took about 2 day for her to come back around,, but a great week
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@GnomeMoe
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Starting into Week 7 Flower, week 13 total Mandarin Cookies smelling out of this world! Very nice and sparkling trichs! Silver Kush #1 is filling in and getting some nice buds, #2 is pretty far behind. I’ve got a feeling #2 might be destined for the hash bag. Not much weight on that little lady yet. 3 - Madarin Cookies are two in back and one in center; 2 - Silver Kush are two up front; 2 gallons water/nutes per 5 plants, alternating with plain water (just calmag, malassis, Ph. 6.4) every other day. Ph.6.4 (1.5 C.F.) Fox Farm Ocean Forest, mixed with (1.5 C.F.) garden soil, fills (5) 5 galllon fabric pots perfectly. (50/50 mix.) Again, The new version of Spider Farmer SF-4000 is an awesome light, for anyone wondering. Can’t say enough good things about this light! This is my first LED, so still trying to figure it all out. I ended up moving the light higher up, to about 18” from the highest buds, to stop the curing and mild heat stress. Power outage was a long few days, but the plants seem to be bouncing right back from it. Quality doesn’t seem affected, but end weight might have been hurt slightly. Oh well... what can ya do!
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Week 4 - 01/22 to 01/28 2021 Pictures from Days 25 + 26 TRANSPLANTED! Might have waited too long but hopefully the transplant and LST stress might slow the plant down since i think it's already flipping to flower like the Red Poison & Purple Lemonade in my other diaries 😱 Ended up more 50/50 ratio of Destiny Organic's Dark Matter Living Soil + ProMixHP since I had to make the Destiny last. Apparently they went out of business just after I decided it was my favourite/new soil :( Would rather stay away from Ocean Floor since I haven't had the best experiences with it (bugs/rust fungus etc) Feel free to drop some recommendations other than Fox Farms below 👍 The Dark Devil Auto is otherwise healthy and starting show hints of colour in the stems 😈 I raised the @ViparSpectraLED P1500 another eight inches after transplant and started basic LST. I really wanted to get these four under a ScrOG but if 3/4 are already flipping and the LSD is still runty I might have to wait it out again. It already has a solid skunky/hash plant smell on the fingers after adjusting them and it looks like it might actually be a tripod mute with three flower sites per node. Hopefully I can stretch it out and take advantage of the extra bud potential 🙏 I have the @MarsHydroLED TSL2000 set up and ready to go once the girls settle into their new pots. Have the new surge protector/heavy duty power cords/power tool grade timers as mentioned in Week 3. Some of it shown in the pictures. Threw some videos in this week as well with some Queen's Radio GaGa, Beastie Boys' Brass Monkey, and a little hint of Arkells ....COME TO LIGHT on the short @ViparSpectraLED ..GET IT.. 😓 -- Thanks for checking in! Throw down a like and/or follow so I can return the favour 🙌 Check out my Diary of the Year 2020 Entry for my Original Auto Sour Diesel: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/54258-fastbuds-original-auto-sour-diesel-grow-journal-by-glazedgrow IG: @GlazedGrow CannaBuzz: @GlazedGrow