The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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@willertex
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📅 D85- 26/01 📜 Only fresh water from now on. She's not yet ready - 3-4 days more I think. ✍️ 0.1 EC ♒ 6 pH 🌊 10 L 📏 95 cm 📅 D90- 29/01 📜 Not yet Ready ✍️ 0.1 EC ♒ 6 pH 🌊 10 L 📏 95 cm
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Without a doubt the best bud I‘ve ever grown! I have nothing but positive things to say about the genetics of this plant. This was my first mephisto grow so very impressed. Buds are sticky and dense after weeks of 90-100 degree weather. No signs of stress or slowing. The plants tackled every hint of def or toxicity with ease. Got a little less yield than I expected, but not complaining as quality is incredible!! Buds dryed for 6 days and cured for 7 as of review. Very dense and sticky. Yielded 5oz dry A-bud, 2oz dry fluff, and 15oz of wet trim. Pressed the fluff with a 11% yield. Rosin is budder-like and smooth. EDIT: Later edited on aug 17 to provide cure update. —-smoke report—- The finished cured bud reeks intensely of diesel, raspberry, and hash! The smoke itself is light on the lungs and heavy in texture. Smoke hints at flavors of raspberry and caramel with sweet notes. High produces strong headband and couchlock effect. Potency is high without a doubt. Smoking a few under 30 day cured bowls produces a high for a solid 3-6 hours even at a high tolerance level. As of mid-august, the cure is complete and stone has intensified. Feels waaay more indica this time. Fully cured bud can knock a seasoned stoner the fuck out. Blew my expectations out of the water This was my first mephisto grow and it made me a diehard fan. Can‘t wait to grow more later in the year!
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Salieron de 15....14 asi que muy satisfecho!!
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DAY 103 Lebby got the chopping. ✂️ 🖤 🙏 ✨ 🖤 🙏 ✨ 🖤 🙏 ✨ 🖤 🙏 ✨ I put the leaves in a plastic bag, cut off some few sugarleaves to make bubble hash, and the buds are drying now. I feel empty. 😅 I saw some spidermites under one leaf.. not webbing at all. 🕷️ 👀 The plant looked absolutely beautiful, if I may say so. 😅 It would be an amazing outdoor plant! Test bud smelled like smurfberries, forest and earth and hash, and aftertaste is just smurfberry. 🖤 If you want to know what that tastes like, you have to grow Black Lebanon. 😎 Thank you, my growmies, for visiting Lebby and liking her so much!! 💚 _____________________________________________________________ SET UP Mars Hydro LED TS1000 sponsored by @marshydrococo2 😘 https://www.mars-hydro.com/led-grow-lights/ts-1000-led-grow-light custom exhaust fan 270/320 m³/h 3x Garden High Pro fans 5W tap water EC 0,25 - adding Calmag (Plant Magic) to EC 0,4-0,6 - adding pH minus Bloom (AHH) to pH 6,5 biobizz Lightmix - later Plantaflor organic tomato soil 🍅
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Bud forming so fast!!!!!! Comparing to previous plants I growth in witch I used biobizz light soil I changed kind of soil in this one I’m using canna professional and the different is quite noticeable I’m really satisfied. I was worried that the small box I’m growing in would eventually make the plant suffer but it’s totally not, the plant is responding well!! Started with the maximum dose of bud ignitor by advanced nutrient. I’m really exited for this lady can’t wait to se the beautiful complete resinous buds.. keeping growing with LOVE 💚
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Week 9 has officially started, and she's entering the final phase with some real beauty. Buds are swelling up across the canopy with a thick layer of frost and lots of white pistils still pushing. Trichomes are now clearly visible under magnification with early signs of cloudiness, but no amber yet. The lower fan leaves have started to fade naturally, and I’m starting to see hints of purple coming through on some of the sugar leaves and bracts. I gave her a full-strength compost tea at the end of Week 8 and topped off the auto-watering base to keep her coasting. Temps have been high due to a heat wave, spiking around 88°F, but airflow and moisture have been stable thanks to the dual fan setup and bottom watering. I also added DE to the topsoil to knock back a few gnats and placed sticky traps nearby. No training this week so far, just light tucking and one small defoliation session in the center of the canopy to improve airflow. She's healthy, sticky, and starting to ripen — right on track for harvest in the next couple of weeks.
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Here we are again ready to start again, always under the sign of Zamnesia, we make our fantastic plants and we show you what we are capable of. We have 5 autoflowering strains and 5 photoperiodic ones and now we present them to you. We are faced with a Classic of recent times: Runtz. It certainly does not have the age of Northern Lights but it is a truly magnificent plant and Zamnesia perhaps also has the best version. Truly super I have grown it in all sauces let's see this one. Gelato and Zkittlez are my all-time favorite mums perhaps. To explain my germination method which is a combination of experiences acquired in the field and readings of the right advisors, I have chosen to divide it into phases so whoever wants can follow them and understand better step by step. - Preparatory Phase ---- Check the average temperature in the room, humidity status to understand if it is the case to start or wait, I decided for the end of August because the temperatures start to drop towards the 22-25 degrees recommended for germination. Then another thing more or less credible depending on the sensitivity is the control of the lunar phases. I believe in it a lot, it is a method that ancient farmers used to understand when it was best to plant depending on the attraction of the moon. To make my life easier I use a simple app that advises you on the right time to plant, harvest and put in the jar (depending on the lunar phases). - Phase 1 --- Soaking in water. There are many authoritative friends who advise against this method due to the risk of drowning, but I have always been fine and I follow the rule if it opens in water the seed is almost certainly healthy and will come out of the ground 90% normally. - Phase 2 --- Opening the seed in water. As soon as the seed opens and the root comes out a little, you have to be very very careful not to leave the seed in the water open for too long. This is why there is a risk of drowning. So as soon as the root comes out, it must be planted. Do not wait for it to stretch out a lot, you can wait a little longer in the absorbent paper, but not in water. - Phase 3 --- In the meantime, while I soaked the seeds, I prepared my pots: I use small biodegradable pots (choose the ones with holes underneath for drainage). A few hours before working with the opened seeds, I moistened the soil with water adjusted to the right pH (5.8 - 6.2) and Plagron Power Roots. The small root is now open and we can make a little hole with a toothpick, widen it and insert the seed. Not too deep with the root facing downwards. From Serious Seeds we learned the dome technique: if you put a small dome of soil on the seed the water will settle on the sides avoiding overwatering problems. - Phase 4 --- The plant emerges from the soil. So far I have not put the light, now I turn it on at minimum after half a day of soil to give direction to the seedlings. The first week the light will be gradually brought from 40% to 60% to go to 70% - 75% in the remaining weeks of veg. During the first week maximum, I keep the cycle of 24 hours to avoid stretching. Be careful not to exceed the first week at least with photoperiodic plants. - Germination % --- In water 20/20 seeds have opened for good luck I'm waiting to talk when they come out of the ground but it seems that we are going towards an excellent percentage of germination..."Not too bad"... - Soil and Food --- The soil used is entirely organic in every part and is the Plagron Promix that will be used with the 100% organic pack provided by Zamnesia complete with all the main fertilizers for your plant buy it at the link -- https://www.zamnesia.io/it/11457-plagron-easy-pack-natural.html // Strain Description // Guys, we have really reached a turning point! Our breeders have recreated one of the most sought-after strains by Californians: the very powerful and exquisitely delicious Runtz. This cross between Gelato and Zkittlez is everything you could want from a cannabis strain: tasty, powerful, balanced, productive and fast flowering. Buy the seeds and try it yourself! - Get a seed of this fantastic strain --- https://www.zamnesia.io/it/6000-zamnesia-seeds-runtz-femminizzato.html - Soil and Fertilizers entirely organic --- https://plagron.com/en - Growbox --- https://www.secretjardin.com/ - Music and sound --- I made my girls listen to 432hz frequencies and music from www.radionula.com - Z --- You can find these seeds, much more from the world of cannabis, mushrooms and an incredible series of accessories and gadgets on the reference site not only mine but of many growers ---- https://www.zamnesia.io
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ALRIGHTY THEN REMINDER I DO 2 UPDATES PER WEEK 👉WEEKLYROUNDUP👈👉MIDWEEKLY UPDATE👈 At this very moment , hint of Grape Crush Soda smells 😛 Which is awsome We just hit week 7 and all is well , for the most part , still having a little Cal/Mag issue but hopfully with some adjustments I got under control 😃 ....... Middle of last week I have decided to start with her little sister and started a little training by pulling her over to the side 👌 And will continue to LST this week👈 And she's also showing Cal/Mag problem but like her big sister I have made adjustments and hope that works she's already begun next faze by flowering 😲 They are so quick 👈 Baby Sister Plant #2 Is 5 weeks 35 days from seed rain water to be used entire growth👍 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉IF ANYONE IS LOOKING FOR A PLACE TO HANGOUT VIA GROWDIARIES AND TALK GROWING AND JUST CHILL AND WHATEVER .....👈 👉I CREATED GROWDIARIES DISCORD SERVER !!!!!!!!!!!👈 LINK IS 👉 https://discord.gg/zQmTHkbejs AND SEE HOW IT PLAYS OUT !!!!!!!
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@TOTEM
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Hello everybody! This week will be the hardest one. I’ll have to work a lot inside the room, and even on GD to document all the changes. Last week I topped for the last time (in reality this happened the first day of this week), and finally stopped with high stress training. From now on, our attention will fall totally on ScrOG. Day 43: Topped the 4 colas at the extremities. Red blood came out from them (see the photos). Amazing! Sorry for the bad quality, but I got just the phone with me when I did the job. When I took the second photo (a few hours later), the plant had already sucked up all the lymph. You can still see the red blood by the way. Day 44: Set the timer to start with 12/12 from midnight of day 45. Day 45: SO MANY THINGS HAPPENED TODAY. Flowering started, baby! 🤩 Today, in the evening, I worked for about 4 hours to prepare the ScrOG environment. - Improved the LST before placing the grid. - Took some photos. - Removed the humidifier. - Since my LED panel has half of the blue lights broken (this happened three weeks ago), resulting in 100W less of total potency, I added 3 new lights pointing where the panel is broken (2x 36W led bulbs and 1x 30W COB led light). I uploaded a photo and a video to better understand what I’m talking about. I even tried changing the broken LED driver, but it didn’t work, so now I’ll have to wait until the end of this cycle to send it to maintenance. - Put 20gr of BatMagno (which is bat guano), 10gr of “Farina di Neem” (Neem Flour), and 50gr of Alghe, all of them over the soil. I’ll write something about these fertilizers at the end of the comment. - 4.5L of tap water (corrected to PH6.5), which gave zero runoff. Haha, she’s drinking like a camel. - Placed the grid. - Took a few photos. - Little defoliation. - Took all the other photos. - There we go! I preferred not to add the bloom fertilizer now because I’m a little worried about overfertilizing this baby. During veg, she showed me she doesn’t like nutrients, so I’m just listening to her requests. I’ll add the bloom one as soon as she seems hungry again. By the way she’s just 20cm tall (I’m so proud of this result) and the grid is located a few centimeters above her. Let’s see if I switched to 12/12 at the right time: I heard this strain usually stretches for about 6 weeks!!! 😱😱 Let’s talk about the ferts I placed on the surface of the soil. - BatGuano: it’s a mixture of organic fertilizers of natural origin and suitable to produce a high amount of organic nitrogen and phosphorus that can be assimilated at 100%. It’s a natural slow-release fertilizer for flowering: the raw materials used (guano, dried borlanda with ammonium salts, kieserite of natural origin, flagpole, meat meal, bone meal and dried poultry) are the result of a careful selection which ensures a low salinity and a gradual transfer of the elements. The phosphorus content in BatMagno (being organic) does not undergo insolubilization. - Alghe: they are a portentose substrate activator made of a mixture of algae of the species Ascophillum, Fucales and Laminariales, obtained through a process of dehydration and grinding without the use of any chemical substance. They can be used during the preparation of the soil, and increase and strengthen the formation of the root system, mobilize the nutrients in the soil, reinvigorate the plants, protecting them from adverse weather conditions, help plants to overcome stress conditions and improve the quantity and quality of production. All of this is possible thanks to the presence of betaine, cytokinins, vitamins, auxins and alginates polysaccharides. - Farina di Neem (Neem Flour): it’s a vegetable product based on Neem seeds, obtained from the extraction of Neem Oil through a process of cold-squizzing out, which increases crops, improving both growth and flowering, as well as strengthening the roots of the plants. The Neem Flour is mixed with nitrogen fertilizers, that slow down the conversion and leaching of nitrogen. Repeated interventions improve the endogenous resistance of plants to pathogens, creating an unsuitable environment for the development of insects and cryptogams. Due to the presence of important trace elements for plant life, it prevents imbalances and nutritional disorders. It also protects plants from Nematodes, ants, insects and soil larvae. Let’s say Alghe is the most smelly product. My room now smells like seaweed! I need to figure out how to give her water now that the grid is on. I think I’ll plug a 2m pipe at the end of my watering can. That’s the most easy and cheap way to fix this problem. I just need to find the right size of the pipe. I’ll show you my solution next week.
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Absolutely blasting off, topped for last time this previous Friday, everything is bouncing back perfect growth has exploded. Still having a slight yellowing on the edges that can't seem to address, I fed every nutrients needed + calmag, pH is 6.7 on runoff, I feed Everytime with 6.4-6.5 pH, it has only received light feedings of Lotus nutrients and I have amended the soil with GaiaGreen 4-4-4 again, so I am hoping that fixes whatever issue is going on. But the smell is REMARKABLE, not even flowering yet but the stems REEK. A strong funky skunk smell from the stem rub. Going to tie down some more branches this week, and keep an eye on the leaves might introduce a superthrive foliar to get these things doing okay, I don't believe it's nutrient deficiency, but it could be nutrient lockout, not due to pH but maybe salt buildup? I tried flushing the soil one time but maybe it wasn't enough? Will keep everyone updated! Also yes I am aware 9 weeks is incredibly long for the progress it's showing but I left it in starter pot for 3-4 weeks, so it is about 6 weeks old progress wise, I intentionally slowed it down until I had room in the tent!
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@Kardo
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Die Purple Haze wächst sehr gut hat gesunde Triebe und die werden jetzt verdoppelt mal gucken wie sie es erträgt
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@Rocstah
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Week 4 Day 2 - Moved into hydroponic system from Soil compound, where they will remain. Looking healthy and strong thus far. Week 4 Day 3 - keeping an eye on stats and root growth. I've increased the pH level to 6.5 now and added in luqid silicon. Week 4 Day 4 - Roots starting to hit the water, plants looking healthy and strong still.
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@russrahl
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Everything went good last, these girls have a ton of foliage and some of the fan leaves are getting as huge so I’m forced to remove a lot of the larger ones to make room for all the sprouts coming up, they are everywhere! Very packed screen so I’m kinda forced to let them come up soon, they seem to be keeping pretty low so far though so we will see. Overall was a successful week and we are trucking along. Cheers💨
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@DawgHaus
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Day 1: A large root can be seen at the bottom of each cell pot. Filled 3x 3 gallon pots with coco perlite 60/40 mix and transplanted each seedlings into its forever home. Not messing with micro-bacteria and all this time round as the nutes have everything that’s needed, fresh coco and a good feed will be more than enough for these girls. Watered them each with 100ml of water mixed with with a small amount of Velokelp and stuck a bag over each to lock in the humidity. Once the transplanting was over I setup a little DIY drip irrigation system with a 10L reservoir. Feeding schedule will be at 1/4 strength of advise dose as recommend by FastBuds and Remo Nutrients. Set up the timer for the lights and drip irrigation system to kick in tomorrow. The lights will change to 18/6 and drip irrigation will kick in just after lights on. Day 2: Lights turned off for the first time after 24 hour light for the past few days. After 6 hours of darkness the seedling are looking healthy as fuck. The first true leaves are now developed and they’re all bright bright green. Drip irrigation timer did its thing for the first time today and I’m well happy with the result from my little DIY kit, hopefully all runs smoothly with it for the rest of the grow. Day 3: The cotyledons have started praying upwards towards the light. The bags over the top of the plants have a good amount of condensation on the inside so I’ve cut a couple small holes in the top of each bag to let a little air in. Turned drip system off for a couple days to avoid over watering. Day 4: Tiny second set of leaves can be seen in the centre of each plant. Made the air holes on bags bigger to get the ready for them to be removed. Drip system still turned off. Day 5: Drip irrigation system is working as it should and environments holding up so all is good. Plants are looking good and seem fairly well rooted. Removed the bags from the top of each pot and turned on the humidifier and set it to 60%. Only thing left to do on this setup up is get some trays under the pots so they’re not sitting in puddles during the feeds. Day 6: All of the plants first true leaves are praying up to the light and the second sets are starting to properly develop. Really happy with all the seedlings so far. When it comes to autos these seem like the business. Fans turned on today and drip irrigation set back on its timer. Found some old metal grilled shelves that have worked out perfect for trays for the irrigation. Day 7: Second set of leaves are beginning to rise up, another week I reckon and I’ll look into hanging the MH bulb so these girls can explode. Very happy with these seeds so far. Gave them their first foliar spray with a 5ml of Velokelp and 5ml of Magnifical mixed into 1L of water. Turned the oscillating fan up a notch too as I’ve got it set up a fair distance away and I didn’t feel the breeze was catching them enough. Mixed up a new stronger feed this evening so it’s read for the droppers coming in tomorrow.
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Thursday 16th march day 59 Harvested a couple days earlier then planned as my humidity was getting a bit high and worried about risking mold I decided to chop, have to get a good dehumidifier soon, everything looking lovely, nice and dense with very strong fruity potent smell definitely the best looking plants I have grown to date not the biggest buds but they look quality, chopped plants whole gonna do my best to keep the temp and rh% in the dry room as close 60/60 as I can to get a nice slow dry, 🍁😎 I only took the wet weight from 1 plant back left plant was 270g with large fan leaves removed
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@Hou_Stone
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- Water: tap water at 300 PPM, I add 0.6g of Hybrid powder and 0.4g of booster PK+ per liter to reach 950PPM and I adjust the PH to 5.8. I watered daily until water drained from the pot (to release nutrients from previous waterings) and I take a 3-4 day watering break to let it dry out before resuming a daily watering schedule. -Daytime temperature: 21-26°C -Night temperature: 21-23°C -Humidity: 55-80% :/ too high -Lamp: Mars Hydro FC3000. intensity 90% at 35cm from the top leaves -Room: Mars Hydro 100x100x180cm -Extractor: Mars hydro 402 CFM Max. power 3/10 -Substrate : 70% coco, 25% perlite, 5% vermiculite. My instagram : https://www.instagram.com/p/CuMhQ_BsjRP/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== Looking for MarsHydro equipment for your crop? 🔥 You can use my promo codes! 🙏😻 3% off with "houstone3" for: TS LED Grow Light, Tent, Ventilation 5% off with "houstone5" for: FC&FC-E&SP LED Grow Lights; Grow Tent Kits https://www.mars-hydro.com/?acc=hou-stone
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@Drtomb
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This grow was set back do to some tests with bleach for sterilization for half the run. Switched to vital bio. Hoping to see the results on the next run.
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settimana soddisfacente ad inizio settimana ho travasato la pianta,nel travaso ho trovato una parte delle radici un po' piu scura del normale,come avevo scritto ho usato del coco vecchio e in quella parte rimaneva piu umido e compatto..naturlmente ho aggiunto coco nuovo quindi ho aggiuto micorizze sulle radici prima di reinvasare ho aspettato un giorno che il cocco si asciugasse un po' di piu e h bagnato con il doppio dell'acido umico che metto normalmente LST continua con piccoli aggiustamenti e una defogliazione limitata a qualche foglia ,al buio,ogni tanto le dimensioni iniziano ad aumentare