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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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@keiffie97
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Late post for the week my bad been a bit lazy. But these things are going nuts. I think theyre done stretching. There's alot more swelling and the stench is pungent. My air purifier was masking the smell. The small one has a lime, deisel, cat piss smell and the other one is kinda like a peppermint catpissy smell. Its hard to describe. I've raised my light to the top of the tent and have started using Cal mag as well due to the yellowing in the center of the canopy. Im pretty sure its caused by either bleaching from the light or heat so im hoping the use of cal mag will help strengthen. I've also added 2 fans to attempt to drop humidity and cool things down. Its not really working but trial and error. Ill try to be on time next week. 🤙🤙
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Cherry cola,the one we thought was gonna be a runt turned out to have the fattest,tightest,most dense buds. The bud structure on her is absolutely amazing,the aroma she leaves on your fingers is out of this world and honestly she will be one that hits the tent again. She may of been smaller but that’s only because we thought she wasn’t gonna make it giving she had issues in the first couple weeks. But she bounced back and thrived the entire grow! Highly recommend this strain to any home grower that wants a nice plant with even better bud structure 🔥 she’s definitely a keeper!
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Put up trellises around the edges and used steaks for the rest..got to move around room to water…everything looks good.. on flower nutrients
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Smelling good. My largest plant actually has the smallest buds.. but smell great.. look great and i herd it can just be genetics or roots want more room but smaller buds often increase resin content.. i fed my last feeding of gaia green bloom. I put a thin layer of wormastings and thats it. I use los cost plant therapy weekly at 10 ml per 900 mill water. Gonna just ride it out until harvest. Gonna pick up a jewlers loop or scope to start checking tricombs next week.
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Hey everyone 😎. This week they have grown significantly in buds ☺️. They already smell very good 😍. Canna Bio Flores has been increased to 4 ml per liter of water. The color slowly changes to autumn 😃. Otherwise not much has changed this week. I wish you all a lot of fun with the update, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🌱 You can buy this Strain at : www.Zamnesia.com Type: Runtz ☝️🏼 Genetics: Zkittlez x Gelato 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205 W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Bio ☝️🏼 Nutrients : Canna Bio ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 6.0 - 6.3
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@hooolian
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04/12: final week for these girls have harvested and hung and will likely take them down in 5 to 6 days - looking good large and they smell great. flushed for final week.
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@LGreen
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Hello =) schönen Sonntag euch 🌞 🌿 Wochenupdate Die Woche war leider wieder alles andere als ruhig 😅 Ich konnte zwar durch regelmäßiges Absenken des EC den Burn von Notorious stoppen, aber wäre ja langweilig, wenn jetzt gerade in der wichtigen Phase alles gut läuft, oder =D Zum Regulieren habe ich immer feste Summen entnommen, dann die neu zuzufügende Menge auf die vorher berechneten Werte gebracht, und durch gezieltes, getrenntes Einstellen weiterhin ein vollständiges NPK-Profil bei insgesamt niedrigerem Ionenlevel gewährleistet =) ⚖️ Ich bin ja mit recht hohem EC in die Bulking-Phase gestartet, unter der Annahme, das wird gut gehen, wenn ich ein bisschen entspannter fahre und Notorious wieder besser mitmacht. Was ich eher weniger auf dem Schirm hatte, war, dass sich dadurch der Nährstoff- und Ionenbedarf der Pflanzen funktional stark verschoben hat 🤦‍♂️ =D Das Ganze dann in Kombination mit sehr weichem Wasser (wirklich brutal geringe Pufferkapazität 😵‍💫) und entspannterer Lösung – also mehr freiem Wasser und damit mehr Raum für Säureeintrag, führte langsam zu einer zunehmenden Versauerung der Nährstofflösung... Ich habe den sich einschleichenden pH-Drift zunächst als normales Uptake-Pattern bei dem Verhalten meiner höher angesetzten Lösung gedeutet, und den EC durch regelmäßige Top-ups weiter nach unten reguliert, das verbrauchte Wasser ersetzt und den pH wieder nach oben gezogen. Allerdings ausschließlich über Top-ups, ohne aktives pH+ bzw. ohne echten Pufferaufbau. Dabei habe ich leider viel zu spät gecheckt, dass sich das pH-Muster immer weiter nach unten verschiebt =(.. Nach etwa zwei Tagen wurde dann klar, dass es sich um ein Pufferproblem handelt und der pH-Wert bei unverändertem Vorgehen in einen kritischen Bereich rutschen würde. Durch die Verzögerung beim Beschaffen von pH+ stand das System über etwa drei Nächte jeweils mehrere Stunden im zu sauren Bereich (pH 5,3–5,0), was in dieser Phase leider zu einer deutlichen Wachstumsbremse geführt hat 😑🥀 Der Fehler lag nicht im reinen EC-Wert, sondern in der fehlenden Pufferreserve. Das habe ich – FML – bei dem sehr weichen Wasser dummerweise viel zu spät berücksichtigt 🤦‍♂️💀 Nach dem Einbringen von pH+ und dem Auffüllen des Puffers ist das Pattern aber wieder so, wie es sein sollte =) ✅ Das Wurzelsystem hat nach etwa 12 Stunden direkt wieder losgelegt mit gutem Uptake. Ich hatte hier wirklich Glück, dass die Pflanzen lediglich gehemmt waren, und hoffe jetzt, in den letzten 2–3 Wochen noch ein bisschen was gutmachen zu können 🤞🔥 Passiert mir sicher nicht nochmal =D 🌸 Pflanzenstatus & Training Aktuell durch die letzte Woche hier nicht allzu viel zu berichten.. Blueberry Cupcake zieht den Frost weiter an und sie riecht traumhaft =) Ich habe auch den Eindruck, dass sie die Woche noch am besten mitgemacht hat. Entwicklungstechnisch wirkt es so, als könnte hier noch etwas kommen, da noch viele weiße Stigmen sichtbar sind – vor allem an den Seiten der Buds 🌿 Vom jetzigen Stand hoffe ich auf noch 2–3 Wochen =)=)🔥 Purpz hat ebenfalls gelitten und nicht sonderlich viel in Stacking investiert. Der Frost zieht auch hier schön weiter an, allerdings haben sich leichte Verfärbungen auf den Blättern gezeigt 🍂 Insgesamt sieht sie immer noch heftig aus, gerade deshalb ärgert mich die Handbremse hier wirklich … schöner Pheno 💜 Notorious hat einfach fast eine Pause eingelegt =D Das Frostbild ist weiterhin schön, allerdings ist sie in ihrer Entwicklung fast stehen geblieben.. Ich vermute, dass der zuvor hohe EC in Kombination mit der pH-Thematik hier deutlich mehr genagt haben 😣 Positiv ist jedoch, dass sie nicht weiter abgebaut, sondern lediglich kurz pausiert hat und jetzt gefühlt dort weitermacht, wo sie aufgehört hat =) Sie stackt auch wieder etwas =D Guzzlerz hat ja von Anfang an zu kämpfen gehabt, und ich habe das Gefühl, dass ihr genau das jetzt zugutekommt =D Sie entwickelt sich konstant weiter und hat sogar unter den Bedingungen der letzten Woche noch etwas an Masse aufgebaut. Sie hat einen angenehmen, süßlichen, flachen Duft 🍯 fast karamellartig, finde ich =) ⚙️ System Jetzt wieder Top-up-Logik weiterfahren =) VPD: 1,20 kPa CO₂: 700–800 ppm im Durchschnitt 🌫️ EC: 1.500–1.600 µS/cm PPFD: 1.000 µmol/m²/s Vielen Dank mal wieder für eure Zeit 🙏 =) Schöne Woche euch und gesunde Plants 🌱💚
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@ohcibi
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10. week. Hopefully less than 4 to go. Grow continues to run smoothly as before. The only point that is stressful is the humidity some times but mostly only after watering and since I’m watching them plants every 2 hours anyway the build isn’t that large. I just needed to understand that these plants will increase their transpiration towards midday and then decline again. So when I see 60% at lunch I don’t have to panic as much. Ryu started to smell strongly when touching him but the smell when opening the tent is still moderate. However I’m looking forward to a very nice and efficient harvest.
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@Hashy
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Week 7 Light cycle=12/12 Light Power=196w Extractor controller settings High temp= 25c Low temp= c Temp step=0c High Rh= 56% Low Rh= % Rh step=0% Speed max=10 Speed min=2 Smart controller settings (during lights on). Lights on=10.00am Radiator on= below 21.5c Radiator off= above 22.5c Smart controller settings (during lights off). Lights off=10.00pm Radiator on= below 18c Radiator off= above 19c VPD aim=0.6-1.4 DLI aim=28-34 EC aim=1.9 PH aim=6.3 Thur 8/2/24 #2 (Day 43)(Day 11 flower) 📋 H=79cm D=20cm DLI=50.5 Raised light 5cm. Lowered power from 200w to 180w H=79cm D=25cm DLI=43.5 Hst 4 colas. Extractor controller settings High temp= 24c Low temp= c Temp step=0c High Rh= 50% Low Rh= % Rh step=0% Speed max=10 Speed min=1 Smart controller settings (during lights on). Lights on=10.01-21.59 Radiator on= below 22.0c Radiator off= above 23.0c Dehumidifier on= not in use Dehumidifier off= not in use Smart controller settings (during lights off). Lights off=22.00-10.00 Radiator on= below 18c Radiator off= above 19c Dehumidifier on= not in use Dehumidifier off= not in use Fri 9/2/24 #2 (Day 44)(Day 12 flower) 📋 H=81cm D=23cm DLI=44.5 HST 4 colas Sat 10/2/24 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 Method= automatic Feed=bloom nutes. Neutralise=0.1ml/L Silicon=1.0ml/L Calmag=1.0ml/L Terra Bloom=4.0ml/L Sumo Boost=1.5ml/L Roots=0.2ml/L Easy Ph down=0.115ml/L Ec=1.9 PH=6.3/6.5 Time start=12.00pm Finish time=13.45pm (11×5 minute runs with 5 minute gaps) Total flow rate=190ml/min Flow rate per plant=47ml/min. Total volume made=13L(13.5L) Total volume left=3L Total volume used=10.5L Volume per plant=2.6L (Est) Runoff. Total runoff=1.0L Ec=2.3 PH=6.0/6.2 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 #2 (Day 45)(Day 13 flower) 📋 H=81cm D=23cm DLI=49.5 Raised light to maximum height. 180w H=81cm D=31cm DLI=48.0 Hst 4 colas. Sun 11/2/24 #2 (Day 46)(Day 14 flower) 📋 defoliation on some lowers. Mon 12/2/24 #2 (Day 47)(Day 15 flower) 📋 H=87cm D=25cm DLI=51.0 Tue 13/2/24 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 Method= automatic Feed=water Neutralise=0.1ml/L Roots=0.2ml/L Easy Ph down=0.02ml/L to much Ec=0.2 PH=5.3/5.7 Ec=0.2 PH=6.1/6.2 after 3L top up. Time start=12.00pm Finish time=13.45pm (11×5 minute runs with 5 minute gaps) Total flow rate=190ml/min Flow rate per plant=47ml/min. Total volume made=13L(16L) Total volume left=6.L Total volume used=10.L Volume per plant=2.5L (Est) Runoff. Total runoff=1.2L Ec=1.95 PH=6.1/6.3 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 #2 (Day 48)(Day 16 flower) 📋 Wed 14/2/24 #2 (Day 49)(Day 17 flower) 📋 H=93cm D=19cm DLI=65.0 HST 4 colas. She is doing great, broken cola is in good shape now. Struggling with height as the light is as at max height. I'm really going to have to chop a load of tops or bend it as much as possible. Back soon. Take it easy.
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@Prophet12
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Been behind on updating pics so here is from my last week up until now. Made a few changes in between. Updated my lighting to Mars hydro ts1000 and the girls absolutely loved it These will be last pics before the harvest pics will be chopping down within next week
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@WooderIce
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1st day of week 3/last day of week 2. Tmrw on day 15 i will change lighting to 18/6. I transfered to larger containers today, and like to give them 24hrs before the light adjustment to avoid shock. Running Two Maxsisun 300w units. Day 16 started nutes with a light woodering 😁
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@Elixx
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The flower are very dense and I'm very happy to this. This is the last week that I feed my plants with nutrient, so the next week will start a flush period of two to three week.
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This strain really surprises any grower in relation to yield. The plant's structure itself does not have much density. The flavor and aroma refer mostly to pine and its production of trichomes is not the best that I’ve seen.
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The colors are showing on this lady! They are beautiful! I couldn't believe how much she came into her own. I started to flush her and she's been hungry anyway. I taper off the nutes like nature intended. So last week was probably less than I added on the site. I will go back and fix it.
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Che dire! Una.delle.mie preferite in growbox! Sta crescendo veramente bene a mio preavviso! I rami sono veramente spessi e si preannuncia veramente una fioritura esplosiva secondo me! Molto buoni anche i nutrienti di BAC sotto stretta concessione del sig.fritz che volevo ringraziare veramente molto per avermi fornito i prodotti adatti per crescere al meglio le mie piante! Volevo anche ringraziare i ragazzi di Fast buds sempre per i splendidi "fagioli"! Queste genetiche autofiorenti sono veramente da urlo! Al prossimo aggiornamento che si preannuncia veramente, veramente di oro!
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