The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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@Khalico20
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Es 3stupenda ya genera resina,esta empezando la tercera semana, suerte que le controle la altura ,muy agradecida con pocos cuidados esta muy sana y esperando probar este aroma que es suave y intenso, buenos humos!
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Not much to report this week, strung up the yoyo’s on D60, stretch seems like it’s almost over, some of the colas at the back are a couple inches too close but I can’t really get at the back anymore (usual issue with my set up). All bud sites are forming well, time to sit back and watch them bulk up over the next couple weeks 😎
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@Mr_Prawn
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Final de la sexta semana, corto la primera con 40 días. El resto están sacando los pelillos marrones, unas mas unas menos. Parece que falta poco, olor fuerte.
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Hello growers HNY! Last leg of the grow now maybe35-40 more days give or take for this girl. She is growing her buds at a steady pace. She is getting smelly with a nice gassy smell starting to fill my balcony and house. Watered in some sugars and cal/Epsom today and will wait for he to let me know when she needs more.
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noto que estan comiendo mucho, osea se secan rápido que es que estan comiendo bastante de lo comun. Las ojas tornandose color amarillo para cambiar a color vino. se ven muy bonitas y estan fewlices. No he cambiado mucho entre los nutrientes (Té y Recharge), he sostenido alimentarlas simples y he tenido muy buenos resultados. muy contento con todo, sigas adelante, buenos humos y feliz 2021
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@Kushizlez
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Day 12F-19F (May 3rd - May 10th) (Day 13) Pots are still super heavy and I don’t see these things drying out anytime soon so we’ll see over the next few days. Still no signs of overwatering. (Day 14) I’m going to do a little lst. Better late than never and since the pots are saturated the stems are bendier. I noticed they were quite droopy during lights off but are praying by lights on. (Day 16) Man these things are filling out slow. I’m going to drop the light a few inches and see if that helps at all. Definitely no early trichs. (Day 19) So I haven’t had to water at all in the last 10 days and the pots are still quite heavy. Oddly enough, I still see no signs of overwatering. Perlite did it’s job I guess.
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Week 4 of veg and we are nearing our transplant into flower. These girls are super thirsty so we are watering every day. We are also continuing our LST throughout this entire veg process. This allows the plants to develop laterally instead of vertically, helping fill your tent faster and with more top cola sites.
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@Hazeberg
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Day 65: New week. I hope the dimmed lights satisfy her more. Let's find out during the week. Day 66: I added some strings to support the branches of the bigger buds. Let's see, if that helps to get them even bigger. Day 67: Nothing to do today. Day 68: Nothing to do today. Day 69: I cleaned the reservoir. I'm not quite sure why she has the CalMag issue. Maybe there is also something wrong with the PH, so I calibrated my device again. I ran out of BioBizz CalMag and now I switched to CANNA CalMag Agent. Let's see, how she reacts on that. Day 70: Last day of the week. Nothing to do today, except looking at that beautiful lady 💚 I’m curious, if the CalMag Agent from CANNA helps her during the next week. -------------------------------------------------------------- You also like to get some seeds from Fast Buds? You like a 15% discount? Just use the following code on your next order: CSYIJC Happy growing -------------------------------------------------------------- 🙏 Thanks for visiting and follow for daily updates 🌱
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2022-01-31 Little Puddin starts into Week 5 of Bloom now the Things happen very fast You can see how the Flowers Budding up every Day I only take away some Leaves sometimes, to keep her Energetic and happy Drinking 5l every 3rd day With this Event, we want to be there for Woman in Need of Help. And Support those ,who are less Fortunate than us. We feel like, we are so Blessed for what we have, that we feel Obliged to give a bit back to the Community that we so dearly Love... During the „GROW OFF FOR CHARITY“, @Weedseedsexpress will Donate 100 Euro per Month to our Charity Goal and an additional 500 euro's by the End of he Contest, if we reach at least 2000 Likes on our weekly Posts on Instagram. The other Companies who are Sponsoring our „ GROWOFF FOR CHARITY“ are giving us Products and Merchandise from their Companies. And they help Promote our „ Growoff“ There are coming some AUCTIONS and GIVEAWAYS fort Horticultists The „GROW OFF FOR CHARITY“ is Sponsored by: ( Named in Order of Appearance) @weedseedsexpress @urban_chili @greenbuzzliquids @Herbiesheadshop_com @genoneeleven_nutrients @zamnesiaxseeds @spilffseeds @Inseediousseeds @sgreenlab @viparspectraled @cannabonsai_¬manny · PLS FOLLOW OUR SPONSORS! · LIKE AND SHARE This Posting! · To Reach the 2000 Likes per Week! ….
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Day 63 Most pistils have darkened and started to recede, while a few fresh white ones are still appearing. Aroma has intensified and is now much more pronounced, Leaves are beginning to show slight fading, which seems normal at this stage. Some Temperature isssues are makibg the bud purple .The plant is focusing energy on flower maturation.
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12/31: They are both coming along nicely.👍 Today was the first day in which I fed them some Big Bloom and Boomerang along with humic acid, pH'd to 6.1. 1/3: I've been letting them dry out a bit for the last two days. They've got roots coming out the bottoms now...I'll probably transplant them into 5 gallon fabric pots tomorrow or the next day. I ordered a 4' 180w tube light with 578 LEDs..it has a 360 degree beam with 3000k and a bunch of 660nm. It's waterproof, so no worries about keeping it beneath my canopy to illuminate the lower branches and hopefully increase the density of those buds that never get much top-lighting. Today, I mounted my two new 24w UVA LED lights (395-405nm) to my frame. I'll run them 6 hours a day from the time I put the plants into my closet, until harvest. It is my understanding that exposure to UVA, particularly during the vegetative stage, triggers many different plant defense hormones, which speed growth and can increase heartiness to withstand constant exposure to UVB without suffering as much cellular damage as usual. I'm also ordering a 2' Solacure FlowerPower UVB (285nm-310nm) next week to use during flowering to stress the plants and increase trichome production. 1/4: I did a few foliar feedings with big bloom and fulvic acid today. 1/5: Transplanting day. I dusted their roots with magic dust and transplanted them into 5 gallon pots today. I had some excellent compost with biochar and myco that I mixed into their soil, too. I watered them in with about 2 quarts of their first taste of full strength veg nutes, plus mycorrhizal fungi, trichoderma, beneficial bacteria, and humic acid, then I sprayed them with biotabs boomboom spray when finished. The were moved into the closet under the quantum boards, UVA's, and a pair of MiracleLED blue bulbs. I'll start adding far-red spectra to the equation in the next few days.
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@parachute
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The buds are fattening and getting covered with trichomes very well, most of them are healthy and flowering at the same stage, orange pistols are already popping out, thinking about harvesting in a week or some.
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@NanoLeaf
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End of Week 15 (8th week of flower) I have stopped the CO2 supplementation for this week and onwards as the plants naturally slow down photosynthesis and it is not needed during the last 2 weeks of flower. Also raised the lights by 5cm to make sure the trichomes don't get damaged and also dropped the RH and temperatures even more than last week, and surely the colours are becoming more and more vibrant as the ladies are fading into their autumn shades. Feeding just water since middle last week, all I'm doing is giving the ladies PH correct water until harvest to naturally deplete the soil from nutrients and flush out the soil slowly this will help bring out even more colours as the ladies use up the remaining nutrients stored in their leaves as they reach the end of their life cycle. Pest Report: None Smell Report: Staaaaanky!
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@Max_Terpz
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Der Grow ist erfolgreich abgeschlossen und hat echt spaß gemacht!🔥 Einfach anzubauen und wunderschön!
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@NO_DRAMA
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Grow on Earth . Grow with Mars 💚
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7/9 I armed up for my battle with earwigs. I bought and applied diatomaceous earth and added sluggo plus pellets to the medium and around the bags and cage. Then I covered the stems on petroleum jelly. I raked my hand in the same bag as yesterday and found a bunch of earwigs. This time I was prepared. I killed them with a 50/50 solution of 70% rubbing alcohol. I found a few more that I killed as well and cleaned as best I couod. Weed Wacker wouldn't work. This was after I watered. The blueberry was droopy af. It stood right back up after I watered though. It doesn't look to bad. I defoliated anything too bad. If I see ANYMORE signs of septoria I'm isolating that plant (probably should anyway) and getting a systemic to deal with septoria. I got the wrong organicide I guess. I got bee safe instead of plant doctor. Regalia is what I'd like to get but it's like $90. Anyone have any good advice dealing with pm and or septoria? I know I should defoliate a little more. 7/10 Plants looked healthy and showed no negative effects from the previous application. I have some defoliation to do and I need to go over at night to check out the earwig population. Found a moth larvae and killed it. With all these other problems and medical issues it's hard to get everything done. I believe I watered today. THIS IS WHY YOU AT LEAST WROTE THAT SHIT DOWN EVEN IF YOU FINISH. 7/11 I had a few teeth pulled this morning after a horrible appointment with my doctor. I believe I watered before I reapplied some sluggo plus and diatomaceous earth. I inspected around my structure directly after the extractions while still numb. I found and killed literally 100's of earwigs! At first I was using an alcohol spray. They are in the structure itself!!!! Where the fence attaches to the wood and a bunch of other places. I used what I had filled it again, stomped them left and right then I found a can or roach ant killer. I CAREFULLY sprayed bottom parts of the structure and they would run out and get sprayed. Damn that felt good. Especially since I've noticed some slight interior damage on a couple plants that seem consistent with earwigs. Small leaves turning yellow after munched. New growth being attacked. Ragged holes in leaves. I wanted to go back tonight but I'm hurting. Noticed some dieing leaves on my blueberry. I'm wondering if it's septoria. I'll update tomorrow. 7/12 WATERED THEN FED 3 GALLONS TO THE GARDEN. Large thunderstorm and hail possible tonight Still in pain but I defoliated all the little dead new growth that the earwigs are eating and anything blocking nodes or that looked infected. Earwigs eat the new shoots that grow the buds. People think they are harmless but they are far from it. Just wait till you have an infestation and they chew off all your budsites lol. You'll have a ten foot plant with MAYBE a six inch cola (if the left ya any) that will probably be diseased. I'd rather deal with mites. I can't believe someone said bugs don't spread plant diseases. Well....they do. I've learned more about earwigs the past few years than I would've ever cared to know. I've seen aphids ONCE this year and they were dead from the organicide spray. I did find a few earwigs on the medium dying so something must be working. I'd spray it with alcohol and it would just spasm but not try to get away. I imagine it's either the DE or the Sluggo plus. After the earwigs eat the shoots the small leaves turn yellow and die. Looking at the plants the look awesome. When you get closer though I can show you branches with no budsites and some other things. I think I'm dealing with it right though. This year pretty much everything is straight up Indica (80/20 or so). Real bushy plants. I'm thinking about whether or not to spend money on regalia or just get plant doctor. 7/13 I had a botanist that teaches marijuana horticulture look at my videos and some leaf samples. No septoria so far! I need to cut some foliage by the forest edge and dispose of it and clean the grow area and be more sanitary. A new pair of gloves each plant or wash my hands after I defoliate. I'm going to spray the shit out of the surrounding area and remove the back tarp like many have suggested. It's a calculated risk but I think it's worth it. I think p jelly is working but some earwigs are dropping on them or flying short distance from plants because I've seen damage. I was going to get the plant doctor but I don't need it if I don't have the septoria. I need to go dig at each corner of my cage and get as many earwigs as I can and dispose of them. I'll kill the ones that rise with alcohol/water or raid. 7/14 I took the back tarp down and put a barrier of DE around the cage and each bag/pot. Added a touch more around the base. I'm finding earwigs dying and I'm really thinking the population is shrinking. I shoveled around the structure and didn't find any. I need my new weed Wacker to show up so I can clean shit up. The other one broke. I've been much more sanitary and am using different gloves each plant before I just started washing my hands in between plants. I'm planning on going back and AT LEAST try using the push weed Wacker to clean stuff up and spray the shit out the treeline and around the cage. It rained hard last night and it's supposed to rain again. If I notice to much more damage I'll do an application of spinosid. 7/15 Rained and stoked hard all night. I weedwacked the treeline back this morning to cut down on vegetation that's infected or could be. I weedwacked around the cage and hunted earwigs. I defoliated what needed it and I can see damage from the earwigs. If you watch the video I made for a friend you can see. I also I sprayed a gallon of baking soda/dawn/veg oil on the plants by the treeline and all around the cage. Used a different bag each plant and washed my hands before defoliating. Things seem to be going good. Plants are stretching. They are in what I like to call the 'asparagus' stage where they REALLY stretch and drop leaves. I'll keep this updated.
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This lady is showing beautiful roots and a fast growth pace, let's see how she keeps developing every day guys, finally this beautiful lady was Transplanted on February 2nd after 17 days planted from seed because I thought it was the right time considering her size and also because the pot was completely conquered by those super healthy and strong roots, let's see how this lady keeps performing so far! 💛❤️💚👨‍🌾💯