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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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È stata una settimana bellissima e calda. Tutte le varietà sono vicine alla fase finale della fioritura e ognuna ha il suo forte aroma particolare. Tutte quasi piene di infiorescenze dure e molto appiccicose ormai stanno completando il loro processo di fioritura in maniera impeccabile. Come sempre queste varietà dutchfem seeds autofiorenti sono una soddisfazione! Alcune sono di tipo XXL mentre altre di taglia media ma sono tutte piene di infiorescenze e continuano a riempirsi quindi verrà applicata una raccolta graduale tra una settimana o due al massimo. Sparito ogni insetto nelle piante a causa della resina appiccicosa. Sono felice un abbraccio a tutti.
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The week before the magic happens
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@AllieO
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1/19: Not much to report today. Got a good look at lemon autos trichomes under a digital microscope. I guess this is just another week of saying "one more week" 😂 1/22: gave lemon auto a good pH balanced water flush, northern lights got some bloom nutrients to help those buds do their thing. Trichomes look mostly cloudy- a few amber on the sugar leaves which means it's only a matter of time! 1/24: lemon auto update: trichomes on some outer buds are amber! Main cold nug looks like it's about 100% cloudy trichomes. Will evaluate tomorrow for possible harvest?!
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Here we are, ready, after a week of truly fruitful germination we have 20 beautiful plants all marked with the Z of Zamnesia. We have moved on to autoflowering, unlike many growers I have no prejudice against this type of plant, it is true that they are the easiest to make but it is also true that they have improved a lot in terms of flower quality and if once ease meant lower quality now even the most presumptuous old school flower children growers struggle to understand if a flower is from an autoflowering or a normal photoperiodic plant. There are people who claim to recognize it from the flavor but then never succeed, it's funny. I enjoy making them strip their heads with these magnificent new autoflowering. She is the Blue Cheese, a second generation Dutch strain let's say, traditional but this time in f1 Hybrid version. I loved it so much in the past, let's see. ---- New Home - The ladies have almost all been transplanted into 11-liter pots, which is my favorite size to get the best ratio of plants in the grow box / yield. Especially if you don't have to do excessive topping or you have to grow the plants straight with main cola like I do for catalog needs like I do, 11 liters guarantees you to make excellent plants. Topping with 11-liter pots is recommended up to a maximum of 16 buds (4 main crops) - The pots are square plastic and canvas branded Zamnesia - The soil used is Plagron Promix with peat and worm castings but not fertilized - --- Start feeding program - A very serious feeding program branded Plagron has begun. We made our own custom table based on the chosen soil (Plagron Promix 100% organic) that you can all do at the link https://plagron.com/en/tools/grow-schedule-calculator and I started giving: - Power Roots - 1ml/l - Alga Grow - 2 ml/l - Pure Zym - 1 ml/l - Sugar Royal - 1ml/l - Vita Race - 1 ml/l - The 100% Organic pack by Plagron can be found on Zamnesia at the link: https://www.zamnesia.io/it/11457-plagron-easy-pack-natural.html We are giving a lot of humidity with a humidifier and we oscillate between 65% and 70%. // Strain Description // If you were looking for a reliable, versatile and accessible strain, here it is. Blue Cheese F1 Automatic by Zamnesia Seeds uses F1 genetics to produce uniform, rewarding and easy-to-grow plants. This strain stays small, so you will have no problem finding a place to grow it. After just 10 weeks from seed, you can enjoy tasty buds with relaxing effects. - Strain — Get a seed of this fantastic strain - https://www.zamnesia.io/it/10673-zamnesia-seeds-blue-cheese-f1-automatic.html - Growbox and air sistem --- https://www.secretjardin.com/ - Light — P2000 - https://www.viparspectra.com - Music and sound --- I made my girls listen to 432hz frequencies and music from www.radionula.com - Z --- You can find these seeds, much more from the world of cannabis, mushrooms and an incredible series of accessories and gadgets on the reference site not only mine but of many growers ---- https://www.zamnesia.io
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@Luv2Grow
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Overall the grow with this girl could of been better but only because I screwed up early on with the LST and snapped two main branches completely off so I’m sure that slowed her down a bit but absolutely amazed how it almost didn’t even bother her. Looking forward to growing this one again soon.
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~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_ 10/14/21 😻 Everything looks great!! It's not often that our seedlings pray like this, they couldn't be happier under this MarsHydro..we should of noted last week that all seeds were placed immediately in their final pot (we do transplant autos sometimes, this was more for convenience) ..being a new light we're a little iffy on distance but 24 inches has them pointing skyward (we're keeping a close eye for any buring)..we typically do 18/6 for all autoflowers but thought we'd try 20/4 for a change..we'll update again midweek..thanks for reading if you made it this far and happy harvests everyone!! ❤️💡🌱😽💨 ⚡Mars Hydro/SP-3000⚡ Specifications ⚙️: Diodes: Samsung LM301B / Osram 660nm (960 total!) Driver: Meanwell 300watt 🔌 (300W±5% @AC120V-277V) PPF: 824umol/S ☢️ PPE: 2.8 µmol/j 〰️〰️ Lifespan: >50k hrs ⌛ Veg Coverage: 3 x 5 ft 🌱 Flowering Coverage: 2 x 4 ft 🌼 Weight: 10.1 lbs (4.6kg) -Uses an aluminum heatsink (no fan) and the driver can be removed to be placed outside the tent 🌡️⬇️ -IP65 waterproof ratings, tolerant to high humidity grow environments 💦 .. -Up to 30 of these lights can be daisy-chained together and controlled from a single light! 💡~💡~💡~💡~💡 ~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_
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@Stoolboxx
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This is the end of week 1. First time grow. Plant on the right was a little stunted, I think due to the taproot curling before being planted in the soil. Plant on the left seems to be growing steadily every day! (L for Left, R for Right)
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The buds are getting bigger everyday and are spread very nicely. This strain is growing very well so far and should be great smoke
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MAY 17th I'll water the 10th planet again tomorrow. Things are going amazing! I topped one of the blueberry cheeses and fimmed another. I'm not seeing any stress. If they seem good I'll hst some of the others. This doing ONE thing at a time helps figure out problems. It's 75 right now but it was 39 this morning. UPDATE: IT STARTED FUCKING SNOWING TODAY. Forecast looks good and others are putting plants out. I'll hold off. They'll go to the garage soon for hardening off. Looking at other diaries I had much bigger "clones" but they always come full of problems (see last year). These plants are the healthiest ivecever grown. I'd rather have a healthy plant half the size than a clone with a bunch of issues. Tomorrow I'm planning to wash my stakes and grow bags. I'll get the palletts in position and move my cage. I also am considering either putting a small pvc cover on my cage or finding a way to attack something to the trellis system for heavy rains. If anybody has ideas I'm all ears. 5/18 DIDN'T WATER TODAY. Soil was dry but the pots were heavy. I could feel some moisture through the drain holes. I think it would've been alright either way but I'm erring on the side of caution. I'll check again later in the day. I topped one and fimmed anotger of the blueberry cheese. The purple punch is quickly catching g up to her sisters. I HAD to add a small ring around one of the purple pounce plants as it was WAAAAY lighter than the others. It's possible it could've gotten less water than the others last time due to its positioning. I'm also considering adding silica next feeding. So much left to do before they go outside. Oh and it was fucking snowing here yesterday! May 17 and it was snowing middle of the day. Morning temp wad 31 this morning so I'm staying cautious and making sure I have all my ducks I'm a row before I go outside. I'm also weighing options to either add a pvc hoop on top of my cage or look into protecting plants individually come late fall with our horrible weather. I'm leaning towards the pvc top. I think that would greatly help things. UPDATE: Went back over at four and everything's looked great. Leaves praying to the sun. Topsoil is dry as fuck but I can still feel a little bit of moisture through the drain holes plus they have a little heft left to them. I plan on watering tomorrow and see how that goes. I wanted to add silica but I'm afraid of changing to much or raising the ph of the soil. 5/19 Found out that my scale will actually weigh the three gallon pots! I don't have an empty one to fill with dry soil to compare though. WATERED everything today. Topsoil was totally dry. Some plants had some heft to them. However I last watered on the 15th so I decided to cut back on the amount of water and see how that goes. Instead of the full 28oz powerade bottle I gave them a little over half. I tried for approx 16fl Oz per plant. Everything is looking great. Other than the little runt. I don't know whatcthecdeal is with that one bit it may get given away or culled. I also FIMed a purple punch. UPDATE: Went back over around 11 and boy weren't the plants looking good. I'm moving my cage and sanitizing my pallets tomorrow. I sanitized my grow bags. I vleaned them with the baking soda and water and a scrub brush but since I had that problem with fusarium last year I then soaked them in a h2o2 solution for 20 mins before rinsing them off and letting them dry. I am so stoked for this season. Wondering about the pvc top and whether it's necessary 🤔. I have TONS of heavy equipment (well dad does) but the smallest thing we have is a backhoe and a bulldozer neither which I'm to inclined to use to move big plants. I thought that since the door to that garage is large enough to drive a front end loader in than if I could find a way to make my pallets mobile I could bring them in if storms are coming. I worry to much. I also got rid of anything that could gave spires on it. Ilk need to wash my plastic trellis netting and the bamboo as well but better safe than sorry. 5/20 Plants are still growing like weeds and are the ones I HST are recovering nicely. Soon they'll go out to the garage and spend their days outside in the sunshine and their nights inside the garage while I harden them off. Having trouble uploading stuff right now. 5/21 Topped two blueberry cheese and one purple punch. Plants are still doing great. We are getting close to go8ng outside in tye forever homes in smart pots ranging from 10gal to 50 gals. I still need to sanitize the pallets but this week I plan on hardening these girls off fully. 5/22 I weighed a couple of the plants and they were different. I think I got a couple 7lbs one that was 6 something and a heavier one that was 8. Looks like I've found the right amount. I plan to water tomorrow. They'll be moved in the next couple days to the garage and I'll let them fill the 3's before they go in their final homes. Plants are recovering from HST great. Still getting cold nights here. Honestly if I didn't have a major life event happen they'd be outside hardening off now 5/23 Watered everything with approximately 18oz of water. I am either going to move plants outside today to indirect sun (even though they've handled full sunlight from an open window) in the garage and keep the light going for a little longer. They need to fill their pots before they go in their forever homes. I've got some work to do but it will pay off. EDIT: Cage has been moved to its new home. A huge pallet takes up most of it but I have littler ones that will fit in. I just haven't had a chance to disinfect these. I'm probably going overboard but I'm not fucking around with that fusarium or other any pathogens this year. I'm going to use the systemic organocide once I go outside. It's going to rain tomorrow amd might be cold but I still move the plants to the garage in the morning.
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@LST420
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Week 7 Although the Gelato is the smallest of the bunch it's definitely the fastest flowering. Also I'm trying out a little experiment if the results are positive I might share more about it in the future..
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Growth Stage: Transition / Pre-Flower Environment: Temperature: ~25–26 °C Humidity: ~60–62 % RH Light intensity: increased to ~500 PPFD Watering / Feeding: Plants were watered with plain water + CalMag during this week. No base nutrients were added, as the focus was on keeping stress low during the transition into flowering. Observations: Week 3 marked the start of pre-flowering for both Apricot Autos. Apricot Auto #1 showed the first white pistils about one day after the Amnesia, clearly indicating the transition into flower. Growth looks stable, and the plant continues to improve compared to the earlier weeks. Apricot Auto #2 entered pre-flower about one day after #1. While still noticeably smaller and less developed, it also showed clear signs of flowering and continued growing steadily. The transition into flower felt slightly early for the Apricots, but the decision was made to let them run naturally without any intervention. Training / Work Done: No training or manipulation was done this week. The plants were left untouched to avoid unnecessary stress during the transition phase. Notes: Week 3 was mainly about observation and stability. Both Apricot Autos successfully entered pre-flower and are now preparing for the upcoming stretch and early flowering phase.
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Little clean up in the tent things got out of control. By removing lowers and inners that would possibly not produce much will definitely let those tops stack up nicely. These buds will without any doubts be rock solid, I can tell by how sturdy those stems already are. I transplanted this week was a nightmare root mass caught everywhere in the 3 Gal, now into 5’s. 👍✌️
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@TechHack
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Start 12/12 Fr, 13.06.2025 Was für ein Datum an dem freitag war, hab ich erst später gemerkt xD
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For this week or the next, I had planned to harvest the Sour Strawberry, but while inspecting the plant, I found some nanners - still mostly in hidden inside the bract - which made me decide to chop it a few days early. Most likey due to heat stress endured due to stretching too much or me turning up the lights to 80% for a while a few weeks ago, I can't be certain that there aren't other nanners or haven't been any in the weeks prior. I expect to find some seeds here and there, but overall I don't think it's going to be a lot. The nanners and harvest aside, this week wasn't very eventful just like the last one. The Acapulco Gold has started to visibly and quickly fade, I'm removing a couple of yellow leaves every day. Trichomes are still in part clear, I expect this one to take at least another 2-3 weeks. The other plants haven't changed much, the trichomes are also still partially clear, similar to the Acapulco Gold, so I'll probably give them at least another 2 weeks. They started drinking less water, so I'll probably also put a little less into the tank this week, given that it's one less plant now, too.
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@Redweasel
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Tent Entry Time-85 minutes Total for Week-85 minutes Removed straw mulch from each container & soaked each in separate containers filled with 1/2 gallon reservoir water mixed with 1/2 tsp each of coconut water powder, aloe powder, 1/4 tsp quillaja & recharge. Using a flame sterilized utility knife, removed all mature fan leaves, beginning from the bottom of each plant, working upwards. Three clones taken from each plant. Topped both main stems of each plant above the third node, removing everything below. Bud clips attached to each branch, spreading at 90° angles. All removed plant material salad chopped, mixed with 4 cups of original custom soil blend & a handfull of Kashi Gold, returned to respective container. Hand watered each container with 1/2 gallon 6.5 ph 13ppm reservoir water mixed with 1/2 tsp each of coconut water powder, aloe powder, Azos, & 1/4 tsp quillaja saponaria extract powder. Wetted & soaked straw much returned to respective container. DLI-30 VPD-0.90 -Expression #1- Week Prior Height-5" Width-14"×13" Pre-Cut Height-9.5" Width-25"×20" Post Cut Height-5" Width-9"×6" -Expression #2- Week Prior Height-6.5" Widht-12"×11" Pre-Cut Height-9.5" Width-22"×17" Post Cut Height-3" Width-8"×7"
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Arrancamos este nuevo cultivo con una variedad buenísima. Vamos en la primera semana después de que germinaron, solo regando un poco y manteniendo el ambiente bien húmedo. Por ahora las tengo dentro de un propagador, y más adelante voy a preparar un buen sustrato para poder trasplantarlas bien.