The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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Defoliated again the leaves which were growing over Bud sites The streching phase has begun. I am corious how tall the plant will go.
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Feed Started With Tap Water Left Overnight For Chlorine/Chlorides To Evaporate. Next Day. Starting EC of our water is 0.10-0.15. I added 1ML of Regenaroot Per Litre. Then Used Canna Terra Flores Until EC measured 0.7. I then used the mighty bloom enhancer by the ml until my EC measured 1.3 Always Give A Little Sprinkle Of Great White Into The Mix Finally i PH'd the mix to 6.2. Made sure the feed was of adequate temp (21c) and continued to feed. 😎
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@Hologram
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Its a bit rainy today so she is in the safehouse.. dont worry, its nice and cosy..with a lil breeze😎👍 its their favourite spot to come together and catch up .. so they dont mind 👊 So as u can see, my darlin clementine is finally growing up and becoming an Orange! she is showing some pistils too think/hope she is gonna be a sweet Citrus-Cannabis- Bonsai!😎👌 happy growing for all✊
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@Gunnen
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This week was easy, just keeping an eye on the environment and low stress and high stress (supercropping) methods. Top soil was amended last week to keep the slow release organic nutrients for bloom going. The genetics are keeping it low profile, but I am able to spread it out with it's flower stretch. Have some decent top sites forming. Removing fan leaves from prime bud sites, otherwise defoliation is pretty low. Tucking fan leaves and other leaves as much as possible without removal as well. Ladies have been drinking water daily and seem to be quite healthy and green. Will be interesting to see the bud formation as it grows. I am curious with the Lowryder genetics seeming to be in stature, wondering if buds will be more Lowryder or AK-47 looking. Genetics seem resilient and quite happy with warmer and dryer environment. This week focusing on training more to get canopy how I want for final flower form. Defoliation as necessary, and keeping an eye on the environment. Things have been smooth and easy so far. The light measurements are using my phone, in a case, with LED lighting, so highly likely the readings aren't very accurate. But gives me an idea where my zones are for hitting most intensity where I need.
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The Critical Mass CBD is lookimg good, tric's are clouding up. Keeping flushing with straight tap water. I am not ph'n the water, I figure this is the end and nute lockout should not matter. Would like to know everyone's thoughts on that. I am still waiting for some amber tric's before harvest, looks like it may be another week yet to harvest. I will have to move the plant to the edge of the lights again, new round going in. Thanks for looking.
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@BLAZED
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Week 17 (19-5 to 25-5) 19-5 Temps: 19.8 to 25.3 degrees Humidity: 45% to 57% Watering #1: 1000 ml. EC: 1.6 Lamp strength set from 70% to 75% 20-5 Temps: 20.1 to 25.4 degrees Humidity: 46% to 55% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 0.5 21-5 Temps: 19.9 to 24.3 degrees Humidity: 45% to 56% 22-5 Temps: 18.2 to 23.9 degrees Humidity: 43% to 52% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 0.5 23-5 Temps: 18.2 to 23.9 degrees Humidity: 47% to 56% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 1.6 24-5 Temps: 18.7 to 25.4 degrees Humidity: 50% to 54% Watering #1: 1000 ml. EC: 0.5 25-5 Temps: 19.4 to 25.8 degrees Humidity: 50% to 61% Watering #2: 1000 ml. EC: 0.5
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Welcome to Flower Week 5-6 of Divine Seeds Auto Fractal I'm excited to share my grow journey with you all as part of the Divine Seeds Autoflowering Competition 2025. It's going to be an incredible ride, full of learning, growing, and connecting with fellow growers from all around the world! For this competition, I’ve chosen the Feminized Automatic strain: Auto Fractal Here’s what I’m working with: • 🌱 Tent: 120x60x80 • 🧑‍🌾 Breeder Company: Divine Seeds • 💧 Humidity Range: 50 • ⏳ Flowering Time: 60 Days • Strain Info: 23%THC • 🌡️ Temperature: 26 • 🍵 Pot Size: 0.5l • Nutrient Brand: Narcos • ⚡ Lights : 200W x 2 A huge thank you to Divine Seeds for allowing me to be a part of this amazing competition and Sponsoring the Strains. Big thanks for supporting the grower community worldwide! Your genetics and passion speak for themselves! I would truly appreciate every bit of feedback, help, questions, or discussions – and of course, your likes and interactions mean the world to me as I try to stand out in this exciting competition! Let’s grow together – and don’t forget to stop by again to see the latest updates! Happy growing! Stay lifted and stay curious! Peace & Buds!
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Nice and frosty, buds are finally looking like they’re getting dense and putting on some weight. Start flushing in a couple weeks when all the pistils get that orange color. So far about 50-70% are orange.
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I topped her above the second node, week2. She then perfectly topped herself of either node(mutation), which became apparent around day 22! I chose to NOT lollipop anything off, since she started flowering after week3.
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2 Girls 1 Cup week 7 is it? How time is flying by. Day 42- still eating like pigs, so I'm bumping up the formula and doing 50/50 tap/RO for now on. Bubbled of course. Spots of calcium deficiency on GC here and there for the last week and I have seen a few spots on WG also. Still used 5mL calmag per gal as max dose to hopefully keep spotting from spreading. Raised my bucket to 374ppm prior to nutes. Decent defol tonight and I got a net back out to hold these down and spread em out as much as possible. One branch on WG has taken over as the main I guess and it's hard as f. Only place it's going is up lol.. 22in from the light as of RN, getting 37.2 DLI. Going to work up to 40 this week and see how they like it. GC really needs to hurry up. Can't let WG get too amber and can't leave dead rotting roots in the system right? Crossing my fingers GC hurries TF up in the end, or it may get cut early. RES change around 6pm tonight, modified week 2 bloom GHE medium. Breakdown as follows: 2gal water/calmag - 374ppm Hydroguard - 5mL Micro - 12.6mL Grow - 12mL Bloom - 15mL RES totals after PH corrections - 1453 @ 5.71. Plants 14in ^ Lights 22in ^ DLI 37.2 =========================================================================================== Day 43- McGuiver'd some external RES together tonight. Waterfarm site tube is now extended into a return line to the external RES. Small cat drinking fountain pump in the base of the external with a 1/4in fitting plastic welded on the 3/8 outlet of it. This thing trickles, just like I wanted. 1/4in line runs to my old fill port on the front of the waterfarm. Constant circulation from one res to the other. Waterfarm started life as a 2gal RES system. Roots fill it up and take up precious space. Roots were even coming out of the site tube lol. When I pump it out for a change lately, Im barely getting a gallon... side res and waterfarm combined now hold a little over 4gal now with the root mass filling a large portion of the farm. Ill actually measure one of these times. If I raise the farm up more, I can hold more in the side RES. 4 or so should cut it, they don't have much longer right? Filled with same formulation as last fill, just 4 or so gal instead of 2. Mixed 5, left with 1? in the bucket when I hit fill line. This may help conserve some water once I finally get their EC dialed in. Not only do I play my plants music throughout their day, I even sing to them from time to time.. Hopefully I don't lose any watchers with my horrible singing in the vid tonight 🤣🤣 =========================================================================================== Day 44- Why didn't I start this experiment off with an external RES? Damn the stability of more volume is a definite PLUS! Haven't had to adjust PH or top off 2 or more times a day since. Been letting the level drop and watching numbers while keeping PH in check. I think I've finally found a stable EC too. For now anyway. Water level drops, EC drops slightly, ph rises slightly. Taking almost 24hrs to swing from 5.61 up to 6.12 instead of 8-12hr. Been thinking about cutting back GC and just keeping it alive so dead roots don't disrupt WG but let WG finish as best it can. GC is THAT far behind from the looks of it. Trimmed em both up late in their day yesterday. Open it up a bit so the lowers on WG can bulk up too. Adding to the list of things I should have done differently and will share at the very end. =========================================================================================== Day 45- ditched the net AGAIN tonight. No leak, shit was just annoying being in my way. Also been thinking ALLOT about my choices in life... latest is why did I plant two diff strains in the same pot and how can I make the best of it? They don't grow at the same rate or eat the same. WG is a PIG! Thought long and hard and have made the decision to cut back GC some to give WG her room to bloom. WG didn't stretch much and GC is still going. Keep supercropping it to keep it out of the fan and same distance from the light as WG. I have to keep both alive till the end, unless I throw in the towel on GC at WG harvest and chop em both. Really don't want to waste the experiment, so I may get creative at the end. Only have the one tent and was planning on drying in it since I've got the closet its in dialed in. Really don't want to make a cardboard dry box... =========================================================================================== Day 46- Going to wean these girls off the N next RES change. GC is starting to stretch more, and still refusing to make the transition. maybe less N will do the trick?? kick up the bloom a bit as well. WG is ready for it for sure. GC may have an issue with it, but she'll survive. gave em both a defol before lights out today. heavier on GC than WG since WG isnt bushing up as fast as she used to. the light frosting is getting more populated also. side RES is working out beautifully! =========================================================================================== Day 47- little prune on GC today to keep it out of WG's way. Plucked a few here and there off WG to keep it opened up. Colas everywhere! Going to be one short dense plant that's for sure. If GC gets to a finish, it's going to be a bunch of popcorn from the looks of it. Time will tell. =========================================================================================== Day 48- light prune on GC to keep it out of the way, since its decided to be like 3wk behind WG. maybe tonights RES change will punt it in gear, and itll start exploding in flowers... yeah, i smoked before typing this so the pipe dreams are real on this one.. dialing back the calmag plus (since it has N in it) to 4mL a gallon. dialing back the N in the modified formulation from GHE week 3 "mid bloom" medium feed. formulation as follows: Tap/Zero Water - 2.5gal/2.5gal 81ppm calmag plus - 20mL ^ to 307ppm Micro - 26.5mL Grow - 26.5mL Bloom - 41mL RES totals after PH corrections - 1148ppm @ 5.63. Measured the total volume needed to fill both the waterfarms RES and the external RES and it came to 18.4L. i scooped nearly every drop out of the side RES, but didnt even tilt the waterfarm. so there was prob a quarter to a half gal left in the farm. safe to say roughly 19L capacity. a HUGE increase from a measly 8L from factory. thats before roots fill the RES too, leaving you with NOTHING for water/nutes. so ill have to measure once again when the system is empty and see the true total volume without fillers. tis the end of week 7 i suppose. i will update the timelapse tomorrow afternoon to wrap up the week. i have a 3 week day 27-47 vid on YT if you're actually reading this and want to see the up to date clip. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKtqPxKeMNM *edit* looks like GC is finally starting to hit the transition harder closer to end of the day today looking at vid.. =========================================================================================== As always, thanks for stopping by and checking out my current grow experiment. If it's your first time, check out previous weeks for their daily updates, pics, timelapse, blah blah blah.. you still reading this shit?? 🤣
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Elas estão bem ualll desculpe não atualizar a sweet zkitllez mais ela também está ótima no próxima colocarei as fotos da sweet zkitllez
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the whole week plant was preparing for the harvest I flushed, I did HST, just thrust in it with a knife (I spied on this method from Zurban_Poisonia, thanks to him for the idea) this should help release the resin. buds looks great! I think that cool for such light (it consumes 93 watts) Harvest will be coming soon