The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
Likes
Comments
Share
You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
Likes
18
Share
@Luca90
Follow
I think will harvest the watermelon this week and start drying it and curing it soon as well northern light which was a free seed and didn’t start its life very well is the one that end it up being the hugest one! Even if it was my first growing I took some risk with the northern light cause I used fim on it as well as huge defoliations and lst Will update at Harvest time from today I’ll stop feeding the northern night and I will also stop watering the watermelon until it’s time to harvest
Likes
10
Share
Week is going super well, did notice trichomes are starting to develop more in the coming weeks. Still struggling with watering mainly because i have 3 different strains and i dont know the flow yet. Watering schedule is thrice a week, I nutrient feed on sundays, water on wednesday and compost tea on fridays 500ml each pot. Will be monitoring the trichomes hereafter, today is day 90 from germination, super happy with the results no stunted growth or slow growth. Will set my harvest day between day 120-150. I am targetting longer harvest time for the purple punch because they didnt fight for the light and bullied by 2 monstrous sativas. Since it is indica dominant, i am going to chop them once i see 70% amber
Likes
3
Share
Everything went according to plan. From germination the plant displayed a very good development. With no training I believe she gave a very good yield. She always looked very strong with no signs of any risk.
Likes
18
Share
I just dropped it in water and rootjuice for 2hrs and then direct in peat pellet and after about 50hrs she was saying hello ✋ I'm very exited to start this experience whit exotic seed can't wait to grow this strains 😵
Likes
1
Share
I've seen a visible decrease in live spider mites. Spraying Captain Jack's Deadbug every 3rd day. 2 treatments so far. I took a sample bud from the very center of the plant to examine with my loupe (still need to order a microscope). From what I can tell, most of the trichomes are cloudy. Drying the sample in a brown paper bag. I still don't know if my leaves are turning yellow due to light stress, nutrient deficiency, or because the plant is close to being finished. I've clipped a bunch of leaves off both from yellowing and because there were a bunch of visible spider mite eggs underneath. There's been a definite decrease in spider mites after 3 treatments, but they're not totally eliminated yet.
Likes
10
Share
Van creciendo muy deprisa al igual que el proyecto A , gracias a la buena genetica y a la tabla de elicitación y nutrición de terranabis, se nota la mejoria y la buena salud de la planta despues de cada riego ! A seguir dandole y a ver como crecen las semillas test !
Likes
7
Share
What's up fellow growmies! I hope all is well with your grows! This week progressed like usual, they actually are starting to pre-flower and growing stigmas. Its like clock work with these autos July 1st marked a complete year in growing and each time I've grown autos they always start to transition to flower in week 5/6. Its hard to believe it has been a complete year for me💪🏾 I have gained so much knowledge and received so much help from this community and I really appreciate it. It seems like yesterday I was frantically worrying about everything. Although I have much to learn I think I pretty much have it down to a science. This last year I have grown 4 different strains 2 times each. On my current grow I have stopped obsessing over watering, one thing I am learning is that watering until run off is not really needed, unless you want to test the ppm/ph of said run-off, otherwise you are just wasting water. I start off with 1 liter of water per plant, and as they grow I make my way up to 2 liters. It appears to be the sweet spot especially for the 5 gallon pots, after about 2 liters I start to see run-off in the 3gallon pots I see it after about 1.5 liters of water. I am still using the General Hydroponics Flora Series trio, it has worked well for me. I always mix what the manufacturer recommends per gallon into a 3 gallon sprayer, so I am giving 1/3rd of the recommended dosage out of fear of nute burn or lockout. I performed LST on both Big Bud Auto plants, and one of my White Widows, the other 2 White Widows I am letting grow naturally. Stay tuned and Happy Growing!!!! 🤘🏾🤙🏾💪🏾
Likes
2
Share
@VikRik
Follow
Time to cut it down, harvest report to follow in a few weeks. Maybe I'll start the harvest and leave it incomplete as she dries.
Likes
69
Share
💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦💦 LINK👇👇👇👇👇 https://marshydro.eu/products/100x100x180cm-grow-tent/ https://marshydro.eu/products/mars-hydro-fc-4800-lampe-horticole-led/?lang=fr https://marshydro.eu/products/mars-hydro-fc-6500-730w-commercial-led-grow-light/ https://2fast4buds.com/fr https://www.royalqueenseeds.fr/47-growing
Likes
15
Share
I think it's another good strain from the legendary Barney's Farm 😎
Likes
9
Share
@HighKing
Follow
Very productive strain with big frosty buds. Had a strong smell in and around the tend so make sure you have a big filter system. The plants were healthy and strong. This wasn't my last time growing this beauty
Likes
36
Share
@valiotoro
Follow
Super frosty & rock hard buds💥 Delicious terps🤤 Perfect buds leaf ratio
Likes
3
Share
Likes
12
Share
Likes
14
Share
@AndrewC
Follow
So this is the Tear Down week. The timing of it makes it so i will need to the harvest flag in a few days when I can weight and test the plants. I have included the Cleaning, and Cutting and some Root Porn. I will make the harvest post in about 4-5 days, when I can trim these plants. There is a lot of Plant here. I got way more than I was expecting. I don't have a scale that measure this amount of plant, without taking like 10 measurements and then adding them together. So I will just be posting the dry weight. I will post the wet weight as dry weight * 1.65. Autopots: Wow, what a great product. I have been blown away by how well and how easy it was to work with them. They really did solve the watering issues. Excellent product. If you are a beginner, start with Autopots. -= Lessons Learnt =- - Overdrive the air to your Autopots. In my control plant, I used a small rectangle air stone (instead of a standard air dome). This lead to root rot and some other issues, it also put significantly less air into the water. The root rot, give the material for the Brown Algae to grow. Using a huge Air-disc-Air-Stone would be an excellent combo to mix in with the air dome itself. Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Pawfly-Diffuser-Suction-Hydroponics-Aquarium/dp/B01MY3AQ33 at the bottom and the air-dome on top of it, will be what I do with my next experiment. - Air stone in the reservoir. I had two instances where algae grew into the res. An air stone would have helped. It would have also helped my control plant get less root rot. Given the amount that the air-domes and air sources got engulfed, having the water have more o2 in it would have only been beneficial. - Don't grow 6 plants in a 4x4. Since my control plant was about 1/8th the size of the others, I think I could have grown 5 in the shape of a 5 (on a 6 sided dice)⚄ This placement would give a much more spaced canopy for airflow and more importantly light. The sides of some of the plants were lighter green and produced larf due to lack of light penetration. - This tent was on 19-5 schedule. This worked out very well for this strain. After every lights on, they were in the praying position, so this strain was able to recover in that 5hrs off. If I had more seeds, I would run these again, and try 20-4. I think this strain could handle it. All for all, I think I'm going to 19-5 as my default timing. This kept up a solid DLI. - Staring at .9EC (really .7 EC cause my water here is .2 EC) Then bumping up at .1 a week, until 1.6EC worked out VERY well. I experimented on this crop all the way up to 1.9EC, which burnt the tips of this plant. I think if I did this strain again, I would do 1.6EC until 3-4 weeks left then crank it to 1.9. It did plump them up when I went to 1.9, however it left them looking rough. Bulk was added though. - Sticking to 6.0PH for all of veg, and 2 weeks into flower worked great. The plant had solid and consistent color and leaf shape . The plant's did get hurt, due to some issues (as noted on the weeks). I switched to 6.5 PH in the last 3-4 weeks and it helped them recover, and plump up noticeably. -VPD. The #1 thing I focused on was VPD. I keep it .9kpa range, as best as humanly possible. It was honestly, HUGELY noticeable compared to my other grows. I know truly understand the value of properly dialed in VPD. This is the one lesson that will stick with me forever. - Super-cropping: On the plants I give the chiropractic treatment too, had much thicker stems as much larger channel internally. I did this treatment to 4 of the 6, and the 4 that had it done has larger buds and recovered from defoliation faster. TLDR; VPD is king. Super-cropping is worth the time. Keeping PH and EC dialed in were all wins. Autopots kick ass.
Likes
14
Share
Likes
38
Share
The tallest pheno is ready and being flushed for a couple of days now, rhe others are close but still consuming nutrients at a strong rate , I think they will take at least 1 more week. They smell very much like gelato as a group but are all very different from one another .
Processing
Likes
20
Share
@cpt420
Follow
I skipped a week as I was away from my plants, had to plant 2 of them into bigger pots when I got back. Growing so fast right now, only the one plant that's a bit behind in growing. Might be the night time temperatures or maybe not enough nitrogen. Not too sure. Leaving them on the same nutrient schedule until I flip the lights.