1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Nice strain to grow overall especially for the terps it produced, yield was more on the low side as expected from one for these "hype" strains or whatever you want to call them.

Risultato finale inaspettato! Questa è la prima volta in outdoor, e pensare che le volevo regalare perché non me la sentivo di farle crescere a casa perché troppi vicini di casa, poi mi sono affezionato ed eccole qua, le più grandi piante mai riuscite!! Sono molto contento!!

Making an addition to the diary to be able to join a contest

This is the whole flowering cyclus posted in one week.

Been lightly LSTing the stem for resilience have noticed more development and more than original thought would be thers the development of the 3rd-4th set of leafs with the development of the first 2 side branches on each autoflowers (first 2 on vid is lemon cherry cookies and last 1 on vid is frozen face) started lst to shape there structures I’ve defoliated the single set of leafs where first set of side branches are developing and stretching nicely

Hallo Freunde 👋 growers Love to SweetSeeds✌️🍀💚🍀 Diablo Delight ist nun in seinem Medium! Auf das er groß und stark wird 😀, bis dahin keep Green and grow High ✌️🍀💚🍀

1/25/2024 Vegetation Week 3 Day 1- took 2 Tops today and cleaned up a few lower leaves that were hanging down. The FiM seems to have worked well and looks like I have three branches coming in where it was FiMed. 1/26/2024 Vegetation Week 3 Day 2- took 2 Tops from the sides and took a little of the foliage that was touching the lid. She seems to be doing very well.. Water change day tomorrow.. YAY!! will get a good picture of the roots and see how she is doing. 1/27/2024 Vegetation Week 3 Day 3- Water Change Day! I noticed a slight red coming in on the STEMS which I added a pinch of EPSOM salt to help correct. I added 36 Gallons of Water I added the following Nutes: Silica = .5Mil/Gal= 18Mil CalMag= .75Mil/Gal= 27Mil FloraMicro = 4.2Mil/Gal= 187Mil FloraGro= 3.8Mil/Gal= 137Mil FLoraBloom= 3.0Mil/Gal= 108Mil ORCA = .5Mil/Gal= 18Mil EPSOM- 1 big pinch 1/28/2024 Vegetation Week 3 Day 4- I cleaned her up just a little bit on stuff hanging down. I also made sure the PH is balanced so she could soak up the New Nutes. 1/29/2024 Vegetation Week 3 Day 5- I Got sick, Possibly food poisoned.. Luckily for me the system was able to do what it do and hold it down until I was feeling better. 1/30/2024 Vegetation Week 3 Day 6- I was still to sick to go to my grow room... Possibly food poisoned.. Luckily for me the system was able to do what it do and hold it down until I was feeling better. 1/31/2024 Vegetation Week 3 Day 7- First day back.. Her PH was down to 5.72 so I raised the PH back up closer to 6.0, I took a few pictures and got her height.. Feeling better through prayer so was able to get some pics today.

Pistels start to turn brown finally i think 2 weeks left maybe 3 I had to tie the branches to the tent bars because she cant hold her weight anymore

Day 36: "Hey everyone! Just a quick update: I removed a few more leaves here and there and did one last round of LST (low stress training). 🌿 The plants are looking great, and I'm going to let them recover now before sending them into the flowering stage. I'm really excited to see them start blooming in 2-3 weeks! Also, a quick update on our temperature issue: today, the temperature stayed below 26.8°C, which is great news! However, we still need to find a solution to keep the humidity levels up. Our 360 m³/h exhaust system isn't able to maintain the required humidity level. I've calculated that we need a humidifier that can evaporate 1800ml/h to maintain 60-70% humidity, which would help manage the temperature better. Does anyone have tips for a good humidifier or other methods to control the humidity and temperature? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Day 37: Hey everyone! Tomorrow, we're planning to buy some Cal-Mag because we suspect the yellowing leaves might be due to a calcium-magnesium deficiency. We're also going to get a pH test kit to make sure everything is balanced properly. Do you think this is a good idea? Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Day 38: Hey everyone! Quick update: it turns out the yellowing leaves were due to a nitrogen deficiency. We increased the fertilizer dosage today, so the plants should start looking better in 4 to 5 days. 🌿 Thanks for all the support and suggestions Day 39: Hey everyone! Another quick update: after increasing the fertilizer yesterday to address the nitrogen deficiency, it should take about 4 to 5 days for the yellow leaves to turn green again. 🌿 We're already seeing improvements! The plants have grown significantly and are developing a dense canopy once more. It's great to see them bouncing back so quickly! Day 41: "Hey everyone! Quick update: we've removed the bands we were using for LST (low stress training) and are now letting the plants grow freely. 🌿 We plan to keep them in the vegetative phase for about one more week before transitioning them to the flowering phase. Excited to see how they continue to develop!"

Last 2 autos coming up maybe week or 2 before done. Expecting the large Durban og auto to foxtail some as it keeps adding white pistols. Smaller plant lost track of strain as I didn’t much care but for a little gal she is pungent.

Run-off got pretty high on the plants in the main tent when I tested it this week (2300ppm) so I flushed the plants down to around 900 over a few water events with half-strength nutes (~450). I think this, plus (mainly) the plants being too close to the LED caused them to throw some foxtails - particularly the middle plant (although I still think that spindly shit is also partly due to the bag seed pheno). Noob mistake on my end and I didn't realize until it was too late. Now the light is turned down and the run-off is back in a good range. It got high because my auto-watering halos were mostly running off the pots and not sinking in - this is because I filled the pots to the brim with coco (another noob mistake). Looks like I'm hand watering until harvest :) Big Mumma in the blurple tent on the other hand is still killing it.. Apologies for having to upload videos of the microscope - too hard to hold it still and press the button for photos lol.

So, this is my first grow, just starting out. After NJ passed recreational weed, I was like you know what... Went on an amazon spending spree and got some seeds from cropkingseeds and this is it! I let the seeds soak for 18hr in deer park spring water w/ 1 drop of Organic Liquid Seaweed and Kelp Fertilizer Supplement by Bloom City. At the end of soakage, it didn't look like any had cracked maybe one did not so sure. So I did up the papertowels according to the video and have to say I feel a little nervous/anxious that there is too much water/weight on the seeds and feer drownage. I'm going to keep it on there though. I check the towels a few times throughout the day and am surprised they're very moist throughout the day and next morning still somewhat damp. 24 hours in the towels I check my babies and one had cracked but the rest were still sealed up tight, unwilling to share the goodness that we all so desire, cmon babies crack that shell for papa! 11/12 looked like 1 seed popped, yay! I remoistened towels a bit but didn't wanna soak them. I also put some rapid rooters in water to soak overnight gunna throw the seeds in them in AM... I was going to do it tonight but figured I should wait see if some pop out more. 11/13 OMG upon checking seeds at 07:10 I found the papertowels like bone dry OMG WTF!!! Panic sets in but I just set up the little terrarium with 6 plugs and put the seeds in and tore some plugs off bottom of a plug to cover seedhole with. 11/14 Got a sprout! YES!! The plugs look nice and moist just going to let it go! 11/15 Woke up this mornin, saw a new sprout peeking thru and then another about to! I got ansy and took off the little top plugs and found all the sprouts were coming up! Leaving the top plug off, hopefully thats not a bad idea.

Less spotted leaves this week but still not as healthy as we would like before flower but getting closer; hoping to start flower in 2 weeks

Eating like a monster, adding 10 ml A+B daily I saw a bit of leaf discolouration Tuesday Changed reservoir s One eating 14 ml A+B daily This week I’ve added 100 ml A+B to Plant 1 and 68 ml to Plant 2

Day 49. Those buds are now really starting to swell up. They also produce a very lovely smell🤩 A few days ago I also changed the light colour from blue and red to only red. We'll see how the buds will react to that.