The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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ALRIGHTY THEN REMINDER I DO 2 UPDATES PER WEEK 👉WEEKLYROUNDUP👈👉MIDWEEKLY UPDATE👈 At this very moment , hint of Grape Crush Soda smells 😛 Which is awsome We just hit week 7 and all is well , for the most part , still having a little Cal/Mag issue but hopfully with some adjustments I got under control 😃 ....... Middle of last week I have decided to start with her little sister and started a little training by pulling her over to the side 👌 And will continue to LST this week👈 And she's also showing Cal/Mag problem but like her big sister I have made adjustments and hope that works she's already begun next faze by flowering 😲 They are so quick 👈 Baby Sister Plant #2 Is 5 weeks 35 days from seed rain water to be used entire growth👍 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉IF ANYONE IS LOOKING FOR A PLACE TO HANGOUT VIA GROWDIARIES AND TALK GROWING AND JUST CHILL AND WHATEVER .....👈 👉I CREATED GROWDIARIES DISCORD SERVER !!!!!!!!!!!👈 LINK IS 👉 https://discord.gg/zQmTHkbejs AND SEE HOW IT PLAYS OUT !!!!!!!
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@fivegrow
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The climate in december / january is very hot and wet in my region. Temperature above 32°C and RH between 60/75%. Flowers have almost no smell. I think this weather is the cause of terpenes degradation.
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Day 30: Let grow, no water no feed. Tent Temp: 77º RH: 53º PPFD: 700 VPD: .67 kPa Day 31: Do-Si-Dos Auto looking really good. Great node spacing and structure. Excited to see how she stretches in the coming weeks. Fed 4ml FloraMicro, 4ml FloraGro, 6ml FloraBloom, 2ml CALiMAGic, 1ml RapidStart, 2.5ml ArmorSi, 1ml Floralicious Plus, 1ml Liquid KoolBloom and 5ml FloraNectar. Solution Temp 70º PH: 5.8 PPM: 950 Tent Temp: 77º RH: 52% PPFD: 750 VPD: .66kPa Day 32: Same as she ever was... on fire. Doing well today. Tent Temp: 77º RH: 51% PPFD: 800 VPD: .67kPa Day 33: Let grow, no water no feed. Tent Temp: 77º RH: 52% PPFD: 750 VPD: .67kPa Day 34: Do-Si-Dos received a slight hair cut. Just removed some small bud sites from the bottom and a few fan leaves. Watered .5gl RO water PH: 6.1 Tent Temp: 75º RH: 55% PPFD: 750-800 VPD: .58 kPa Day 35: Looking healthy and happy. Starting to get a slight skunky smell in the tent. Tent Temp: 75º RH: 55% PPFD: 750-800 VPD: .58 kPa Day 36: Ready for feed again. Cutting out FloraMicro on this feed, Cosmo and + Speed(s) showing slight signs of nitrogen toxicity. Fed 4ml FloraGro, 6ml FloraBloom, 2mg CALiMAGic, 1ml Floralicious Plus, 2.5ml Armor Si, 1ml RapidStart, 1ml Liquid KoolBloom and 10ml FloraNectar PH: 6.1 Solution Temp: 71º PPM: 925 Tent Temp: 76º RH: 52% PPFD: 750-800 VPD: .67 kPa
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@MrJoint
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✌️🎃 Thank you for checking my cultivation. 🛁 Roots washing start.
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@Amboss
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Feeding until the end of week We will see
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@samadhi
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It was a great week for this Sour D pheno. She is really starting to fatten up now and is noticeably different after every dark period in terms of the size of her flowers. She is getting tricky to move to the shower where I normally water so she will likely not move again until she is cut. This makes the watering process more tedious but it is a necessary evil to avoid any unwanted mishaps this late in the game. I already caused her to lean a bit from swaying back and forth carrying her across the room during the last fertigation. The buds still dont have a hugely pronounced smell (like I'd expect from Sour D) or much trichome coverage but I am reassured by the fact that she seems to be a late bloomer and is apparently just starting to take off in terms of flower production. I've only seen a scant number of orange pistils so I think she still has several weeks to go. If she starts to take on that characteristic gassy smell as puts on some frost so I can press her into decent rosin, I'll be more than happy with this run when it's all said and done. Thanks for following along! Do me a favor and click "Like" if you like what you see here and let me know what you think in the comments. Cheers! 🌱👊
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Hmmm. Was overall a very hard plant to grow for me. I hit a hard road on her & she's very difficult pheno to grow for me. I HST'ed her as her tops stretched really far away from the bulk of the foliage at the bottom. Was really weird. So, I had 4 top bud sites that were 20cm away from the bottom after her flip stretch before pre flower. So, HST'ed the tops and they gave back rock hard buds. At the end. That all finished really well.
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I'm kind of lost in this stage. I don't know if it's time to harvest or if it needs more time. I have 1L of diluid nutrients yet, so i think i'll use it then stop the feeding. Thinking of harvest Next week
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Everything is going great I'm more worried about the chocolate haze. Mango haze. White widow they arent as big didn't start with the same nutrients but ive altered them to be the same hopefully they'll speed up
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Plants looking good, stretching 2-3 cm a day now. As mentioned last week, did increase the EC slightly, same ratio, keeping this for the next ~8 days, until stretch slows done and buds start to grow in size. DLI now at 31 will raise it to ~35 in the next 8 days. Last day of this week, removed all leafs below the ScrOG net, set LED to 80% and DLI to 42. Changed fertilization frequency to 5 times per day.
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2023-03-15 Growing the Lemon T was very easy, she strated with Bold and hugee leaves and strong Branches for my Taste she has to many Leaves- so i recommend a strict training on her. she would have fit woderful ( after Training) under a SCROG. so i had to strip many Leaves during Floweringtime, not to get Mildew All The other THC- Strains ( the High Chameleon) has her as Ancestor, You have to add one more Week in Flowering, until she was ready i was in Holiday so i missed one Week in Documentation Harvesting was abit Challenging due her strong smell, we had to open the Windows but iam sure her taste will be awsome so stay tuned for Smokingreport.
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Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Have fun with the update. Hey everyone ☺️. The lady is developing very well and beautifully 😍. I give her about 3 more days until I take a cuttings and the lady then comes into the flower tent 👍. The tent was cleaned every day of the week and the humidifier was refilled. I wish you all the best 👍 stay healthy 🙏🏻 You can buy this Strain at : https://www.exoticseed.eu/ Type: Herz Og ☝️🏼 Genetics: Larry OG X Kosher Kush Indica 60 % / Sativa 40 % 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .
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Welcome to my Slurircane Diary sponsored by MSNL & Spider-Farmer Days 56-63 only got days 56-58 & 63. Plant has moved from Pre Flower into fatthing on Day 58 r so. With the attempted Reveg. Pre flower was lost and any stretch. I now know when or how to stop a plant In its tracks.. during pre flower. Throw it into reveg (keeping dli within limits as if not, it'll continue to flower. So keeping in in the right DLI range is needed for reveg. I pult mine a just short of a week into it. And it was just a few days into pre flower and I stalled her at the height of 41cm. Another week maybe 2 of reveg would of got growth going again. But I decided to push ahead with fattening. She did put on a few cm finishing her pre flower but, nothing compared to what would of been if I hadn't of stalled and reveg. This can go bad. But, maybe I'll try again. As the colas, well, I've not had them like that. Not as this early stage. Look already how filled out they are. Will be short but mass should be good. Another 5-6 weeks of flower. High ppfd and 8-1300 co2. Diet/Defoliation Have moved her off Power Buds/Roots & moved to Green Sensation & PK 13/14. Done a hard defoliation and she has started putting on nice mass. Really happy with how she looks. Really healthy & Happy. She's a fast mover. Topped out a 41cm her tallest node. Most are 39.5 with an even canopy. I done 2 15% defoliations. Removing inside leafs around her nodes to allow air to move through the canopy. Premoting co2 exchange pushing newly made o2 out of the way on the stomata vent levels. As soon as plant hits ripening a lot should also be. So, I'll figure something out by then. Maybe an SF-1000 finish under low temps. As my main tent will be pushing 33-35c until end of the summer and beyond. This won't do for ripening. So, I've the perfect light for it. 900ppfd maybe I'll use at 80% and ripen her up nicely in 25-27c temp. Thanks to my sponsors from MSNL & SPIDER-FARMER. Much appreciated for allowing me to test your products. Also, to those who stop by. I thank you and look forward to seen your work.
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Estamos en la tercera semana de crecimiento vegetativo. Nuestras plantas ya tienen unos 15 centímetros aproximadamente, y han superado la fase crítica. Recordamos que hasta ahora solo estamos regando con agua, aún no hemos incorporado los fertilizantes. Seguimos manteniendo la humedad relativa bastante alta, y la temperatura entre 22 y 24ºC. Pero aumentamos la potencia al 50% de ambas luminarias.
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@Krissci
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Day 5 - MC1 need large amount not defoliation and LST MC2 light defoliation and leave LST tilnext week