The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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I can’t believe how much these girls have grown in seven days. I have been watering every seven days with recharge 1 tsp / gal for the last three weeks and the last four hours of the evening on watering days I have been soaping them down with insecticidal soap followed up by neem oil. I asked if anyone took their plants outside on another site as mine seemed to love the great weather the past three weekends, and the pest disease issue came up. I hadn't previously thought about that, and looking back, I am glad that I have been using some IPM.
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@Godsgrace
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25 and 28 days from planting. A couple of days before, I started cutting off the large leaves. Today I started doing LST. Perhaps I was a little hasty with this, but we'll see. The temperature problem has been resolved. Watering is carried out every 3 days. For the entire volume of the pot.
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March 12, Day 71 my Sea Of Green is now a Sea Of Buds 😄 Tomorrow I will collect the three plants closest to the poster that seem to be mature. Next week I will collect the last two gorillas (excluding the two plants with a photoperiod predominance) because they seem to need a little more time. March 13, Day 72: I wanted to make a video or a video to show you the defoliated plants ready to be cut, but when I removed them from the SOG they no longer had the support of the nearby plants and the branches could not support the weight of buds. I'm not complaining, in fact I didn't think I would get such a big harvest. For the same reason I only cut and put to dry two plants, I don't have enough space in my dryer that is only 50x50x120 Centimeters. However, I made a video with Harvest and a video with the new layout of the plants in my SOG. Now in my sea of buds there are three gorillas left, two cheese in advanced bloom and two photoperiodic gorillas and the margin there is a Cheese that has just started to bloom. I realized that I can make only one harvest page for each variety, I thought it was possible to create one for each plant, so I will edit the diary for the final harvest, when I will also collect the last three gorillas in my secret garden. Thanks to everyone for the views and likes 😉
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@Cornfed
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This week I added a new controller to handle up to 8 functions. I installed a new heater, my old humidifier and some LED strips to the controller. Targeting a VPD at 1.0 day and night. Trying to keep the nutrient ppm under 900 and ph at 6.0 in the reservoirs. Ordered a second ph pen because I don’t trust my readings. Will be here by Thursday. Friday: Checked the ppm in the reservoirs and it’s at 1,000. Added more RO water with extra nitrogen to bring the ppm level down to 925. Saturday: I installed an updated AC Infinity controller 69 Pro Plus (controls 8 pieces of equipment) which allowed me to add a humidifier, corner LEDs and a heater to the controller. Overall I’m extremely impressed with this AC Infinity equipment. My VPD is within the range I want to achieve (.8-1.1). I programmed it to maintain 78 degrees and 67% humidity during the day, 73 degrees and 63% humidity at night. Charts posted also show the impact of an open tent compared to the closed environment. The heater is constantly pushing fresh air into the tent, so I don’t need to cycle the exhaust fan often. Rewired the tent again and moved the controller later that night. I mounted the controller on the wall. Added Mars Hydro UV/IR lighting to fill out all 8 slots on the controller. Sunday: I checked the ph in the reservoirs (6.8….i had filled it with 6.0 ph) and the ppm (1200 ppm…I had filled it with 900). So evaporation and possibly a mismeasurement of ph. I topped ff reservoirs with slightly stronger nutes and adjusted ph to 5.8 in the reservoirs. Poor magnesium absorption could be driving some leaf yellowing. Effective tomorrow, I’m switching over to Heads Formula which consistently feeds GH Flora series nutes at Micro (6ml/g), Bloom (9ml/g) and cal mag (3ml/g). Turned on the UV/IR lights for 3 minutes every 8 hours. I’m easing the plants up to 5 minutes every 6 hours which will provide the recommended 20 minutes of IR per day. This will help the plants stretch a little more. Monday: checked ph and ppm in reservoirs. 6.1ph and 880ppm. VPD remains stable except when I open the tent. Tuesday: checked ph (6.4) and ppm (880) in reservoirs. Added .5ml of ph down to two reservoirs. Still see slight yellowing between the veins but it’s not getting worse (might be improving). Adjusting ph down to 6.0 target might have solved this. The plants grew by 1-2” last night…..is the infrared light working already? Decided to mix up fresh nutes for the reservoirs following Heads formula. 6ml Micro and 9ml Bloom per gallon of RO water. Added 5 ml of CalMag too. Ending ppm was 1080 which is too high, so I diluted down to 880 with RO water. 6.0 ph. Wednesday: plants grew another .75 inches last night. I topped above the 5th node. Thursday: added RO water with heavy cal mag to reservoirs to increase amount of CalMag available.
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Ciao a tutti, aggiornamento alla quinta settimana, le due golosa durante la quarta sono cresciute molto raddoppiando. Ho fatto un topping alla #3 mentre ho applicato LST alla #2, essendo più cespugliosa la luce penetrerà meglio. Infine ho usato zeolite per fare prevenzione. Per il momento non mostrano carenze e stanno rispondendo bene agli stress. Buon cultivo 🌱
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@BlumenBot
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This is the first week with the first hand crafted BlumenBot dual zone grow cabinet! Excited to see what we have put together for the indoor grow arena. Things are looking very good from an environmental perspective. Check out www.blumenbot.com for more! Or follow along on Instagram: www.instagram.com/bumenbot
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@GanjOS_OG
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We picked up the cuttings for the GanjOS Lab from High4Life on December 30th and put them in our propagator for around 3 days for acclimatization.
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@MrJoint
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🥫Starting to feed. ✌️🎃Thank you for checking my cultivation.
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@BiggaB
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Plant freshly cropped smells very gassy, big trichomes I will post the harvest once dried✌️
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@Roberts
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Cali crasher is doing good. She has grown into the nutrition that was a little strong. She got her roots pruned again. She will be up for further training comming soon. She is really liking the Solux 350 from Hortibloom. Thank you Hortibloom, and Doctor's Choice. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g
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the 8th flowering week begins with a flush of 20l into a pot of 15l. the plant looks too green for the phase we are, so i needed to do this now. i stopped fertilizing also, but not royal sugar. in the first pic you can see a really smart method to do a flush. the flush brings the EC level from over 2000 to 1100 uS/cm. if there is need i'll repeat it few days before harvesting.
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Ya estamos en plena floración y con las luminarias a max potencia... Evidentemente el aire acondicionado también está trabajando durante la fase de encendido. Flowa-Bloom es la estrella de los nutrientes a incorporar, pero todos son importantes... Así que sigo la tabla de fertilización de JUJU Royal al pie de la letra. Eso si, primero humedezco bien el sustrato con agua, para aprovechar bien la solución con los nutrientes y que no filtre por las macetas textiles. Riego cada cuatro días.