Bubble OG Gum is growing really well. She has been thriving really. She is getting her first lst, selective defoliation, and root pruning today. Everything is looking super great. Thank you Spider Farmer, Athena, and Ganja Farmer. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

I'm not going to use stress techniques anymore Everything is going normally Just a few more weeks It's getting very hard to wait 😬 UPDATE !!! ___ Flushed on day 56

3-11-2019 Into week 5 of flower and it's time for a change out of the Nutrients and add some Fresh RO water and Power To Bloom followed 4 days later with some UMP. She takes on a lot of feedings and running the RO water has been a daily task. She looks good and producing well. Buds have been close to the light with no burn so far, keep bending them down against their will every now and then.

I yielded just over half pound dry 10oz and abit to be exact not to bad off 2 plants that I could of let go a little longer. The absolutely reak of Gas terpenes very different for me but very enjoyable

Really happy with the outcome .. day 54 flower well worth waiting to harvest . Very tasty , recommend for private stash . Hight quality, good yield , great smoke , flavour is very smooth , plenty of output and punch in a vape

Permanent Marker weed strain possesses the genetics for high anthocyanin production, which is responsible for its signature deep purple. While the genes are present, the expression of these colors is often enhanced by "thermal stress" (lower temperatures) during the final three weeks of flowering, which triggers the production of these pigments. 👋 Raising the Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio in the growing medium to avoid over-immobilizing nitrogen, on the flip side, being careful not to trigger early autophagy. Moderate, controlled increases in sugar support the energetic demands of flowering and act as a signal trigger, but excess sugar is more likely to inhibit flowering or damage the plant. Balance, like everything else. Visually, when the chloryphyll green gets darker, it is a subtle indicator that the concentration of nitrogen is increasing / more is being stored than is being used. I noticed when you push very high intensity lighting, it slowly fades the green as the plant degrades chloryphyll faster than it can be replenished. When the green of the leaf continually gets darker, it is an indication that the concentration levels of nitrogen are increasing, and I dont want to increase light intensity. Turn down the nitrogen faucet. C:N ratio dictates the rate at which nitrification occurs, if at all. The Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio acts as a critical biological "on/off switch" (or regulator) for nitrogen turnover by determining whether microbes immobilize (consume/tie up) or mineralize (release) nitrogen during the breakdown of organic matter. This ratio regulates microbial activity by defining the balance between available energy (carbon) and building materials (nitrogen). The C:N ratio in a medium acts as a critical regulator of nitrification, effectively functioning as an "on/off" switch for the dominance of either autotrophic nitrifying bacteria or heterotrophic bacteria. The shade of green in chlorophyll is subtly linked to the enzyme Rubisco through a co-evolutionary, functional relationship designed to optimize photosynthesis. Chlorophyll absorbs blue and red light for energy, reflecting green light, a process that ensures the "light-dependent" reactions provide the correct, controlled amount of energy (ATP and NADPH) needed by Rubisco to perform its "light-independent" carbon fixation. Because Rubisco is a relatively inefficient and slow enzyme—often considered the bottleneck of photosynthesis—chlorophyll and the overall structure of the leaf have evolved to manage energy distribution to prevent overwhelming the Calvin cycle. While chlorophyll absorbs mainly red and blue light, it is not perfectly efficient, and leaves appear green because some green light is reflected or transmitted. This reflection allows light to penetrate deeper into the leaf, preventing the surface chloroplasts from becoming overloaded and enabling a more efficient distribution of energy to the high volume of Rubisco located throughout the leaf's mesophyll. The rate of chlorophyll-driven electron transport (light reactions) is matched to the potential rate of carbon fixation (Rubisco activity). If Rubisco were faster, leaves might be darker; however, the "shade of green" represents a balance that prevents chlorophyll from producing more energy than the inefficient Rubisco can process. The green color itself is a byproduct of a photosynthetic system tailored to feed a slow, yet crucial, enzyme (Rubisco) just enough energy to maximize carbon assimilation without inducing excessive oxidative stress or inefficiency. The shade of green in leaves is directly linked to the concentration of chlorophyll, which is in turn strongly correlated with the amount of Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) and, consequently, the rate of carbon fixation. Darker green leaves generally indicate a higher concentration of both chlorophyll and Rubisco, signifying greater capacity for photosynthesis. Increase output or reduce input. Subtle tells. While an excess of nitrogen (specifically ammonium) can cause an imbalance, nitrification—the microbial conversion of ammonia to nitrate—is highly sensitive to a variety of environmental, chemical, and physical factors. Because it depends on specific, slow-growing bacteria (Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter) and archaea, anything that stresses these organisms can disrupt the process.

Just bought some "predatory mites" to kill bad mites and it's working! I've spread half of a bottle in all my babies soil and the situation changed in like 3 days, not even one bug stayed alive. I've used also the Neem oil to prevent flies to go on their leaves and they are fine now. Starting LST, let's see how they will react. Keep you updated folks! Have a wonderful week!

She's acting a bit weird. Some fresh leaves are kind of crumbling, as if it's mutating. Might be due to the stress from the topping, since she started flowering very soon after that. Also, I (semi) broke some branches when attempting to bend them, that might also be a reason.., Still spraying weekly with cannacure.

Day 68 from seed. Looks like we are getting close. This will be the last week for nutrients, they are on their own after that. Buds are swelling a little bit still, resin production has seriously increased, so has the smell wooooo. Most of the pistils have turned, I'm keeping an eye on tricomes.

So far nothing to complain about buds sites are putting on some size....clone piece is holding up pretty good....hoping she get some roots this upcoming week...never really clone before

Strains: Zamnesia – Strawberry Cough | Kalini Asia | Permanent Marker Grow Type: Indoor Plants: 3 Pot Size: 16 Gallon & 13 Gallon Medium: Coco Coir & Perlite Nutrient Line: Athena Week 3 Flower Update We’re into week 3 now and everything is running smooth. Stretch is pretty much wrapping up and they’ve settled into flower nicely. The buds are starting to bulk up and form properly, and you can see things coming together across all three plants. I’m still going through and cleaning up fan leaves here and there, mainly the ones blocking light from hitting the bud sites. Just keeping everything open so the lower sites can get some light and develop properly. No issues to report they’re feeding well, looking healthy, and just doing their thing. This is the stage where it starts getting exciting watching them stack up. Feeding Volume: 6L pH: 6.0 PPM: 1000–1100 ppm Frequency: As needed Indoor Climate Conditions (Flowering) 🌡️ Temperature: 26°C day / 18°C night 💧 Humidity: 45–50% 📈 VPD: ~1.3–1.5 kPa Now the real stacking begins 🔥🌿

The Runtz auto girls are doing 😊. They have settled in and are fattening and stacking nicely. They are only about 16-18 inches total, but have some nice fat buds, should be some good weight. They are starting to develop some frost, but are very greasy to the touch 🤤 Trying to keep them in a sweet spot so they keep developing. RH around 55-58 % and Temps between 77-80 degrees. They are in week 8 now, and suggested harvest is about 70-75 days… Happy Gardening 🇨🇦👊❤️🌱

So I’ve pretty much done everything that I said I wasn’t going to do. Started the week out with a light defoliation and mid week I started the LST which she responded very well too. Twice a day I’m checking the pH and adjusting the straps. I’m now at full strength with her nutes and she has yet to show any deficiencies. Lastly she has shown some flowering signs 🙌🏼 this next month should be fun.

I used a trim bin inside of a container to separate all the pollen and keep it contained. I'm storing it the fridge in a mason jar with some silica packets to keep it dry. I used a light bleach mixture to clean it in between harvests and fully submerge it in the container.

Drying and curing always the biggest challenge for me due too constant climate change in my area, living near the mountains have its flaws too..🧐 Oh well still love growing..✌️

used flawless finish the last week

This girl is only for seed…hopefully, i didn't create a hermaphrodite generation of seeds as I've heard too much seeds cause this…i am smelling the light berry in her.…i await the first ripe seed to replant.