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Deep watering on Sundays (buildaflower compost tea) Moist watering on Wednesdays ( vitamin c water & jay plantspeaker ) Cut down 3 hermies from light leak 2 charmz 1 Apple fritter
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Devido a Rega a cada dois dias, resolvi fracionar a dosagem semanal de fertilização para toda Rega, sendo assim, rego a cada dois dias da semana, totalizando três regas semanais, com isso fraciono a dosagem para 2ml líquido e 0,16g de mineral a cada litro d'água, totalizando 6ml líquido e 0,50g de mineral por semana.
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.
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@MG2009
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7/31/2018 Wow 2 weeks since update?hmm. Well #1 is in training still getting Wide, about 36 sq feet..6x6 area, tops starting to stretch, I think. Feeding Tomato 🍅 tone 3-4-6 maybe a slight boost of high p guano to help transition to flowering in next week or two, we'll be at 10hours of dark. And flowering will commence.👍 08/04/2018 Pre flower starting,post some pics soon. Got the little booster i mentioned above it is Fox farms big bloom as I said a slight boost. #5 is definitely different from other plants, she is super stinky and sticky as hell, when stripping leaves. Took 3 clones for future testing.
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Day 36 - It's week 5 already! The canopy is really gaining height day by day. Tied some more side branches down and adjusted the tie down on the main branch. Day 37 - Trying to figure out the correct watering amount. 1.5L was too much today will lower tomorrow to 1.2L. Day 38 - Plant is looking good today. Adjusted the tie downs on some branches. Watered with 1.3L and run off was still around 350ml so lowering tomorrow to 1.2L. Day 39 - Watering with 1.2L today. There was still no run off, I'm putting this down to the increased fan speeds, longer open tent periods and the plant growing more vegetation. My 2L watering can should arrive today, so I will be able to mix nutrients in one reservoir and water more accurately. Removed 3 of the bottom most fan leaves which had a branch large enough to support itself. Day 40 - Watered with 1.5L today. Removed 1 fan leaf and tied down a side branch. Run off was around 100ml. I also set the fan speed back to 1, as I think 2 was too strong for the plant and dehydration levels of the soil. Day 41 - Watered with 1.6L today. Run off of 400ml (25%). Getting pretty bushy now almost stretching to all sides of the tent. Day 42 - Watered with 1.4L today. Run off was 150ml (10%). She's now 32cm tall with the light hanging 36cm above the highest tips. That brings us to the end of Week 6. It looks like we are a day or two away from starting to flower properly. Bring on Week 7!
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@NONSENSE
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Week2: The plants looks very nice. x 3 are ROYAL Cookies And the two babies are Afghan regular and Diesel fem. The middle Cookies plant is bigger= 2 days older then other ones. You can see the difference. From tomorrow I will start to train the plants. I will LST two small plants. The bigger one will be topped also. The genetic is very good. There are a lot of colas and they are located close. I hope to have time to develop about 8 colas for each plant. Less than three months are left until the end of the RQS cup. So from January 1, I plan to start flowering. The plants eat and drink good. i see small iron deficiency( the leaves are a little bit yellow.) i will Flush the plant with pure 6.0pH water and microelements only. Flushing should remove nutrient salt build-up
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Venerdì 26 ottobre 2023 Inizio controllo 702 ec ph 5 Aggiungo 25 lt demineralized 54 Grow 36 Micro 18 Bloom 30 rhino skin 30 enzimi 20 calmag 985 ec ph 5.2 Martedì 31 ottobre 2023 skip a 12/12 Inizio controllo ec 986 ph 4( troppo basso) Cambiano acqua 75 lt demineralizzata ec 141 ph 5.7; Aggiungo ( x 60lt) +2.5lt rubinetto 120 Grow 120 micro 90 bloom 75 enzimi 75 rhino skin Ottenendo ec 1237 ph 5.6
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@Grey_Wolf
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Chance of a Lifetime Greenhouse Seeds Wonder Pie Week five 5th June 2020 Welcome back to my Wonder pie Diary for the Greenhouse Seeds Win a trip to amsterdam Contest. It's been a busy week for the three plants. I waited until aprox mid week (Tuesday 2nd June) to begin some LST And each plant proved to be tricky in one way or another. Plant 1 has very flexible branches that I needed to use tent pegs on to hold down each branch I wanted to train. Plant 2 is very bushy and has quite a few side branches happening so I managed to tie down atleast 6 with some soft wire and left the others to grow a bit longer before I try more LST. Plant 3 was the trickiest because the branches are very stiff and not very willing to bend . I found this out by accidently snapping a branch off. I managed to tie a few down but have the two main branches still growing vertically for the time being. (Wed 3rd June ) Not touching them today and will water tomorrow (Thurs 4th June) Watered each plant with 2 Litres of Water (Friday 5th June) Today I am very happy with the way they responded to the LST all three plants have really bounced back well and look super happy. I have been playing around with a homemade CO2 producer which is very easy to make with household items. Basically I re-used a 1.5l empty water bottle as the container. Then I simply punched a small hole in the lid for the CO2 gas to escape. I then added aprox 7-10 teaspoons of Sugar & half filled it with nice warm water (not too hot) and let the sugar dissolve. Then I added 3 teaspoons of Bakers Yeast and gently shook it all up before placing the lid with the hole in it back on the bottle and placing it inside the Grow tent. The principle of this is that the yeast and sugar react with each other to start "Fermenting" which causes the release of gasses which are made up of CO2. Now whether or not this does anything to make the plants grow any faster is conjecture on my part but I have noticed that the plants look very healthy and growth has been more this week than previous weeks so who knows????? It's worth a try if you have the time and inclination to try it. Well that brings me to the end of this weeks Wonder Pie update. Thankyou very much for taking the time to Read it, I truly do appreciate the kind words and likes etc and I shall be back next week with another. 👍
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@Blucha
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They smell great and trichomes taking over the plants. I've only got one concern and it's the high humidity even 64% but let's wait couple weeks more and I gonna try to adjust.
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@RFarm21
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Week 28 december - 3 January Happy new year
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@Drtomb
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Just flipped these girls into there new home. Lets see how they do. Will be running this grow with a line called bio vital. It includes humic acid, folic acid, sea kelp, molasses and benificials. Hearing good things about it. Lets see how she does.
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Week 10 showing expression in veg
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@Dineh
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hello fellas have ya seen my clone that refuses to grow it is still alive making only three finger leaves i should kill it but i cant lol gonna see where that brings us looks like i am gone be in flower for about nine weeks THREE WEEKS TO GO i see the cola formation growing in am thinking if i would feed them this week they now have got three waterings plain water i guess i am gonna do that 600ml every other day biobizz + water
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@Mazgoth
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It’s better than it was before.This week I’m giving only water and the next one I will flush with flawless finish
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Plants are doing good ! Little yellowing due to not enough nitrogen and lesson learned dont let coco dry out ever ! This is my second ever run in coco I've been running soil only so its definitely a learning lesson. But plants are still with us doing good :). Two BlackBerry kush auto by Dutch passion one is in a 1.5 gal grow bag by honor while the other in a 1 gal :). Cant wait to see what they look like next week :) 2/26 nice little update through the week #1,2 are both growing strong after they were fed. seems a rule of thumb to slowly feed them around day 7 growing in coco, unlike when I was growing in soil I went to atleast day 10 before slowly feeding them :) nice learning experience. Another one I'm excited for !!
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@Dabking
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Plant 1: 2.40 Oz dry (chopped day 84) Plant 2: 4.85 Oz dry (chopped day 88) Happy with them so far. Will update post cure and smoke report.
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👉Alrighty Then👈 So we are at DAY 42 of Flowering with the Sugar Larry 👈 And she's doing fantastic 👍shes finally done with her stretching 👌 and building Budz 👈 😀 decided to showcase pheno #2 , definitely has different traits then #1 very interesting 😀 thoe both are killing it 👈 Hedgehogs in full bloom 👈 I did a major strip , defolation is complete 👌 Except for some slight watering , ive been doing some defolation as well as some LST manipulation to pull branches to the side 👌 👉I had to Top her during the middle of 4th week 👍 Happy Growing 👉Soil Provided by ProMix.ca 👉Nutrients Provided by Agrogardens 👉Lighting Provided by MarsHydro.ca Thanks my friends for the great support over the years 🙏 Happy Growing
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@Addison
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After 10day of flowering.BTW I dreamed yesterday that my plant died
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08/11: La troisième semaine de floraison commence enfin on devrait les fleurs prendre forme. J'espère que le stretch est fini car elle est assez grande et doit laisser un peu de place au autres. 08/12: la troisième semaine débute sur une note un peu amer. Certaines feuilles se détériore à une vitesse folle, ainsi que des tâches brune. Premier réflexe GHE essential et cal-mag agent de Canna ce matin. Espérons que les prochains jours seront plus cool et que cela vas arranger mon problème. 08/13: après avoir fait plus de recherche je suis enfin tombé sur un article sur le blog de pevgrow et mon problème correspond en tout point à une carence en magnésium. Je devrais voir voir des améliorations dans les 4 à 7 jours. Et bien-sûr continuer à donner du calmag. Le problème viendrai du fait que je tourne en 24/7 avec les auto's enfin c'est ce que je pense après avoir croisé les conseils et avis des "growers" de GD et certains articles. 08/14: c'est dernier jours ont été intense pour moi, lors de mon premier diaries j'avais déjà eu le même problèmes avec une purplequeen auto à l'époque je n'avais pas de calmag... enfin tous ça pour dire merci à la communauté growdiaries.com qui m'a conseillé et supporter. Maintenant cela c'est stabilisé et n'atteint aucune autre feuilles, les nouvelles feuilles sont belles et viguoireuses. Me voilà rassurer et surtout j'ai encore appris de nouvelles chose sur la cannabiculture 😎😨🤓 08/15: elle a créée une belle masse de feuilles entre temps, je vais appliquer une grosse defoliation après le prochain engraissâge histoire d'être que les carences ne sont plus d'actualités. À part cela je me contente de couper deux feuilles par jours. #46 08/16: tout est rentré dans l'ordre ouF :D - la production de trichromes à bien commencé, une légère odeur typique à la weed qu'elle que soit la variété en début de flo. se dégage de la growbox. je suis enchanté! Maintenant j'epère que le switch d'engrais càd changer "BioBizz bloom/topmax" pour "Canna PK13-14/Boost Accelerator" vas lui plaire à la jolie dame #47 08/17: apres une de nuit de réflexion: arrosage/engraisser (canna calmag (.6ml/L)/BB blom-topMax (1.2ml/L chaqu'un)/ AN BigBud-BudCandy (1ml/L chaqu'un) ce matin. J'essayerai canna pk 13 14 et boost accelerator sur mon prochain plant. #48