Everthing is cool Pheno 02 is looking good for flower already I'm keeping them very low with lst so when the strech they don't become a issue. Defoliate some leaves on the number 04 cos they were in the way of the light for the new

King tut is foxtailing, I had two hours where the temps got to 90 in the tent three days in a row. I've seen some others mention foxtailing on king tut in general. With the ROI-E680 a few people complained about foxtailing on the first couple grows. I turned the light down to 60% from 80 and the dehumidifier set on low so it would stop spiking the tent temp and keep the humidity in the 50s as best I can. Fingers crossed!

Potted then up to 4ltr pots ready for flowering ✌️ switched to 12/12 on day 35

In realtà ho coltivato 2 semi di questa pianta una l'ho raccolta e seccata mentre un altra è ancora in flush e verrà raccolta tra 5-6 giorni. I fenotipi sono quasi identici e predilige un odore di gas e og! L'effetto è devastante molto narcotica e a breve pubblichero qualche foto di qualche estrazione a freddo! Spero che piacciano a qualcuno i miei lavori e che qualcuno di voi si possa ispirare a tutto questo. Ringrazio ogni singola persona che è passata di qui a lasciare il suo like o commento e ricordo a tutti voi che potete trovarmi anche su Instagram 😘

Constructive interference is the phenomenon where two waves combine to form a new wave with a larger amplitude. This occurs when the peaks of one wave align with the peaks of another, and troughs align with troughs, causing their amplitudes to add together. For example, if two identical waves meet, their amplitudes will combine to produce a resultant wave with double the original amplitude. Constructive interference is a fundamental phenomenon based on the universal laws of nature, specifically the principle of superposition. 👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrification process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work. Oxygen is the alchemist's "fire"

Fed her a 2/3 strength dosage of the FF trio today. Gonna let her dry out then proceed to feed her pH6.8 water with molasses. Already showing trichs only 2 weeks into flower, I can tell she's going to prosper! Monday, 18th update: Added a video showing buds right after a molasses watering - frosty ;)

Final week down chopped Down yesterday. Some big dense buds.

PH is going down down down, corrected it with PH up up up. I don't know why it dropped ~0.1/hr when EC stayed pretty much stable, roots look fine, no smells so... ??? Did defoliation as usual, the NL #1 + 2 need it every couple of days, the Ori is just fine, doesn't need anything. Also did LST and lollipoping. Smells get more intense

tent is starting to get nice a smelly and is giving off a fruity kushy smell.

Week 7 (13-3 to 19-3) 13-3 Temperature: 24.2 degrees (lights on) 18.5 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 65% (highest) 52% (lowest) 14-3 Temperature: 28.2 degrees (lights on) 19.5 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 57% (highest) 44% (lowest) Today i refilled the reservoir with 15L feed (1L + 0.2 ml Silica + 1 gr Calcium + 0.7 gr Grow) EC: 1.3 PH: 6 One wavemaker already broke on me, luckily i bought 2 so i replaced it with a working one. 15-3 Temperature: 28.5 degrees (lights on) 21.1 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 60% (highest) 46% (lowest) 16-3 Temperature: 28.2 degrees (lights on) 19.7 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 59% (highest) 45% (lowest) No pictures. Adjusted the distance of the light to 40/50 cm (depending on hight of some tops) 17-3 Temperature: 27.8 degrees (lights on) 19.7 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 62% (highest) 44% (lowest) 18-3 Temperature: 28.1 degrees (lights on) 20.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 62% (highest) 44% (lowest) Today i cleaned the reservoir and added 15L. (1L + 0.2 ml Silica + 0.5 ml CalMag + 0.46 gr Grow) EC: 0.9 PH: 6 19-3 Temperature: 28.2 degrees (lights on) 19.9 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 69% (highest) 43% (lowest) No pictures. Today i installed a new SCROG net, this one is much better then the one i used before.

Days 35-42 (Day 36) Some minor problems starting to arise here. A few times this week it got up to 90+ degrees which I think may have caused a bit of heat stress in some of the plants. I’m seeing a bit of cupping/crinkles on some of the fan leaves and some of the new growth is looking pretty gnarled and twisted. I hear windburn can cause this too so I’m turning my fans down to low speed. This could also be a problem with humidity so I’m going to turn off my humidifier, dim the lights and raise them. During my last feeding I mulched in some worm castings but it seems like they’re keeping the soil/coco from drying out. Pots are still decently heavy and even the surface is still quite moist but they aren’t showing any major signs of overwatering. I figure it will only be a few weeks before the castings break down so I will just leave it. A few of the plants are starting to show yellowing leaf tips which is probably some kind of micro nutrient lockout from my PH being slightly too high. It could also be from nute burn so I will water in 6.0 until I see some runoff. Although the most likely culprit is potassium excess. I’ve been feeding potassium almost as much as nitrogen so far. I know that can cause the yellowing of leaf tips by locking out trace minerals. It can also cause leaf problems like crinkling. Excess K can even cause water retention! Will water at 6.0 until run off next watering. The lst is coming along nicely. It was a good idea to remove the first two sets of branches (not leaves). Now I have 4-6 perfectly even stems coming from each plant that I plan to top one more time each. (Day 37) Today I’m going to vacuum, clean, wipe down and spray all my equipment in the tent. I’ve been letting the floor get quite dirty and I haven’t had the chance for a thorough clean since last round. I’m kind of surprised I haven’t seen any powdery mildew yet. I guess the prevention spray is working because the room has to be infected from my last crop. (Day 40) I was reading that you can foliar spray whatever you are deficient in for an immediate uptake. I‘m going to try that with my current potassium excess since it locks out trace minerals. I’m going to foliar feed a bit of phytoplankton at 15ml/L and some MagnifiCal + VeloKelp from Remo nutrients both at 5ml/L. The cal mag is not organic but as long as it’s not going into the soil and doesn’t contain chlorine I’m fine with it. I’m also going to be changing the light cycle to 18/6 for the remainder of veg. This will be their first dark cycle so they can properly foliar feed. Edit: humidity shot up to 85% a few hours after foliar spray. I went to top dress everything today and I mixed up the plants while doing so! So the ones I was unsure about I gave 1 extra tablespoon. I won’t top dress again for at least 10 days. Might give a light tea sometime next week. I also tilled the shit out of the top of each pot. It had a hard crusty layer on top that was keeping the medium from drying out properly. I’m not going to water again until everything is bone dry. Then I will water until slight runoff at 6.0 ph with some Dr. Marijane bacteria/root probiotic. I’m starting too see a lot more of these abrasions on some of the bigger fan leaves. It almost looks like thrip damage but I’m 100% sure it’s not a pest above ground. It could be bulb mites, which I found in my worm castings but I can’t check until the roots are more established in their pots. The leaves themselves are cold and feel damp to the touch. I haven’t even seen a fungus gnat since I last fed. I’m hoping it’s related to the K excess and clears up with the troubleshooting. (Day 41) Just ordered a wire cube rack to prop my plants up with and help evaporation/root warmth. Each cube is 11.8”x11.8”x11.8” and it comes with 16 cubes. So it will fit just perfectly in my 4x4. Depending on the size, I might order another one for the flower room where I would need 25 cubes.

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White Truffle x Red Pop by Detroit Seed Co BuildASoil 3.0 LOYAL TO THE SOIL Strawberry truffle | Vivosun 2x4 | Mars hydro sp3000 | 7 gallon pot Chem 91 x Red pop | AC infinity 2x3 | AC Infinity Iongrid 24 | 5 gallon pot

So i had to chop this down due to hot water snd starts to foxtail quite a lot so i decided to chop allready can see some ambers so all is good very heavy colas and smells super sweet

Zamnesia Seeds has got some fire genetics as we can see from the photos this bud looks phenomenal ... She is on day 78 and only getting water from here on out I expect to be giving her the chop in the next week I wish I could have her dried and cured for Christmas but that doesn't seem likely .. but I do know for the beginning of the year we will have some good smoke... Hope everyone is doing well and so are there ladies good luck to all God bless and happy growing ✌️😎 https://www.zamnesia.com/us/

04/23/2022 I think lemon OG is done Give her a few days more, Biscotti Skunk, grape skunk about 2 -3 weeks out, the Biscotti Skunk has very strong camphor mothballs smell. Not quite sure what to think of her hope buds fill out well. Grape Skunk is doing a bit better but lemon og has performed best in my specific micro climate, others have more flowering to. If I'm going 63 days in flower it might as well be a Sativa variety.

SPONSORED DIARY===SPONSORED DIARY===SPONSORED DIARY TRANSPLANT #3 THIS WEEK!!!! Big week, did the last transplant of the grow before she enters flower. I decided to skip out on the 3gal and upgraded to a 4.97 or 5gal container. The plastic is cheep and looks like it was going to break but its all the grow store had in stock at the time. Was talking to them about going from a 2gal to 3gal and how it did not do much for the plant but stress it out. They also gave me a free sample of a bokashi fertilizer, I divided that in between the two plants. It looks identical to the regular non fertilizer branded bokashi, and I feel its the same but with a mist of NPK on it or something. Plants are doing well, Dynomyco had a slighter bigger root ball upon transplant and the plant its self is a tiny bit more robust. Given all the other soil boosters and microorganisms I have added into this, I don't feel I will see the true potential of just Dynomyco vs soil nothing else added. I just can't not add the others as it feel like a massive step backwards and end of day a big healthy plant is worth it. This diary may not have massive contrast in favour of Dynomyco but I will still use it none the less and I think its helps plus its not over just yet. Would love to hear what y'all think about this, hit me up in the comments and I'd try and get back to yea as fast as I can. I like how the dead Blue Cindy plant looks like a biophage, sifi like alien thing. SPONSORED DIARY===SPONSORED DIARY===SPONSORED DIARY This is my diary entry into the Dynomyco Show Us What You Got Contest! #DynomycoShowUsWhatYouGot! @DynomycoShowUsWhatYouGot! @Dynomyco Big Shoutout to @Dynomyco for picking me in their contest. Happy to be involved and as a user of Dynomyco I am curious to see this side by side with my own eyes. I will be honest I am a little skeptical it will show any major differences. but we will see what happens. Some disclaimers, I am still using LABS serum I made, This is also beneficial to the root mass however it's a bacteria based product and not fungal or mycorrhizae like Dynomyco. https://growdiaries.com/giveaways/DYNOMYCO_Show_Us_What_You_Got

Two plants are on the 29th day of flowering and the other two are on the 22nd. I started giving pk 13/14 to plants that entered their 5th week.