~ FastBuds PAPAYA SHERBET Photoperiod~ Well here we go on another journey together through 'Canna-land' and this one's kinda special... forget that, it's VERY special because this is FastBuds newest surprise for the community, a FEMINIZED PHOTOPERIOD STRAIN!🤯 I was fortunate enough to score these seeds, of which only 1000 were available and can't wait to see what this strain can do! This Papaya Sherbet, according to FastBuds, is a hybrid with a 9-10 weeks flowering period. For a more detailed and accurate description of this strain the following from FastBuds says it best: "Combining the massive stature of Papaya (Oni Selection) with the strength and resilience of one of our best keeper cuts (Sunset Sherbet), this strain develops into a big, expansive bush adorned with numerous bud sites that later transform into a generous harvest of medium-sized buds. Papaya Sherbet flowers deliver a signature flavor of premium cannabis with subtle citrus undertones that emerge upon inhaling. During growth, her aroma makes for a sweet yet pleasantly bitter fragrance, giving you an idea of what the smoke will taste like. Notably stress-resistant, Papaya Sherbet is a great choice for growers working in challenging environments. She is very forgiving and rebounds quickly from any adversity, allowing growers the freedom to experiment with confidence that she will take everything like a champion she is. This strain embodies resilience, flavor, and abundant yields in every grow cycle." Sounds like an epic strain and I personally cannot wait for this lady to strut her stuff!😍 ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ The Setup: This is going to be an outdoor grow, but I have started the Papaya Sherbet photoperiod indoors as our weather is still a bit too chilly to put a newly sprouted seedling outside (nighttime temp's dipping regularly into the 40's℉). The plan is simple... let her grow inside under a 19/5 light schedule until the nighttime temperatures are in the mid 50's℉, which shouldn't be long. After which, she'll be moved outside and transplanted into the soil which I have already setup and inoculated with beneficial microbes from BioTabs and slow release dry amendments from Gaia Green. Once she's established herself outside she'll be given periodic top dressings of Gaia Green 4-4-4 and 2-8-4 along with worm castings and Compost Tea's. Her grow area is approx. 5'x5' and I have posts and a trellis net set up already for when she gets bigger to aid in training her. Let the fun begin!🤪💚 ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Weekly Updates: 8/19- Week 2 of flower is here for the FastBuds Papaya Sherbet photoperiod and she is looking fantastic! Our weather has finally cooled down and the daylight has dropped to just over 13 hours now. 8/21- My daily watering campaign continues with me giving the Papaya Sherbet 5-8 gallons of well water from the garden hose. 8/23- Luckily, with it's wide node spacing, there's not a lot to do with the Papaya Sherbet at this point except to keep her watered! She has not required any thinning out and has had only a few lower leaves turn yellow, which I promptly remove. Overall, this lady is a dream to grow, requiring little to no effort or maintenance! 8/25- There's the second week of flower on the books for the FastBuds Papaya Sherbet photoperiod and I have great expectations for how this fine looking lady is going to turn out, as she has exceeded all my expectations so far! Thank you for checking out my diary, your positive comments and support make it all worthwhile! 💚Growers Love!💚😎🙏

Día 1 de germinacion de la Jack orange de interior , humedecimos las servilletas con un agua en ph de 6,5 y la dejamos en la oscuridad con una húmedas de 24° , vamos a revisarla cada 2 días y volver a pulverizar si hace falta Vamos q ver cuantos días tarda en salir

These are hands down the best geno/phenos I’ve ever dealt with the growth rate is mad compared to my other grows I really like these genetics and definitely won’t be growing any shit again 😂

La floracion empezó a mitad de semana 4 y ahora en semana 5 se nota mas , 5 semanas contando desde germinacion exactamente .

My other grow was growing into the light, so I had to switch them. This light doesn't have the greatest coverage, but it had to be done. The humidifier is still down, and I'm going to have to move house with it on one of the coldest days of the year, so this grow does not have everything going for it. Smells strong, like candy apples and the buds are getting very dense.

made some tea out Original Concentrate Nature'🙌s Living Soil add 6 tablespoons to half of 5 gal bucket of spring water stringht out the good old mountain 😷💪🙏👌

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Yesterday i took off some Leafs down there. Looks Like a Bouquet now 😄 She's responding great to the Training i have her. I'm pretty exited how she'll do in the Future weeks 🤙🏽

Gracias al equipo de Sensi Seeds, Marshydro, XpertNutrients y Pro-Mix, sin ellos esto no seria posible. 💐🍁: Mr Nice G13 x Hash Plant: Las semillas de cannabis Mr Nice G13 x Hash Plant son 100% Indica. La variedad incluye G13 en su genética; una planta afgana de primera calidad que (según la leyenda) fue sacada de contrabando de un centro de investigación del gobierno por un técnico. Sensi Seeds desarrolló la variedad con el objetivo de mejorar aún más la G13 y el resultado fue Mr Nice, que se lanzó en 1999. Mr Nice G13 x Hash Plant Regular tiene un tiempo de floración de 60 a 65 días. Como era de esperar, dada su genética índica, esta variedad no alcanza alturas significativas. Sin embargo, cuando se cultiva en exterior, no es raro que las plantas alcancen unos 190 a 240 cm. En interior, son mucho más compactas, y la planta media crece aproximadamente entre 80 y 170 cm. Mr Nice G13 x Hash Plant Regular proporciona un colocón corporal increíblemente potente. Es 100 % índica y esto se nota en el efecto de "apagón" que produce, ya que los usuarios afirman sentirse muy relajados y aliviados después de consumirla. Gracias a la genética "doble afgana", las plantas producen un aroma terroso y picante. Este aroma tiene un matiz dulce, rico y penetrante, que se intensifica a medida que maduran los cogollos. Al gusto, es casi como una mezcla de ganja y hachís, ya que es excepcionalmente fuerte y rico. 🚀🌻 Consigue aquí tus semillas: https://sensiseeds.com/en/cannabis-seeds/sensi-seeds/mr-nice-g13-x-hash-plant 💡FC6500: Eficiencia líder en el mercado: la lámpara de cultivo LED FC-E6500, que ostenta un estatus líder en el mercado, es una solución rentable con un PPE de 2,8 µmol/J y un rendimiento máximo de 2,5 g/vatio. Ofrece un PPF alto de 2026 umol/S y es adecuada para una cobertura de vegetación de 1,50 m x 1,50 m y una cobertura de flores de 1,20 m x 1,20 m. Iluminación versátil y uniforme. https://marshydro.eu/products/mars-hydro-fc-e-6500-730w-commercial-led-grow-light/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1qO0BhDwARIsANfnkv9IIrYSbmJqz8PqpJOIyWwJfp5bc3SGJgUV68USLQ4tjmXDYwoBuAsaAue3EALw_wcB 🚥 MarsHydro ADLITE UV/IR/RED: Para lograr un crecimiento óptimo de las plantas y maximizar los rendimientos es un arte simple que depende en gran medida de las condiciones ambientales adecuadas. Reconociendo las limitaciones de la iluminación natural y las soluciones de iluminación tradicionales para satisfacer estas necesidades únicas, lanzamos ADLITE. Estas luces especiales UV, IR y roja están diseñadas para llenar áreas del espectro, proporcionando las altas longitudes de onda que las plantas necesitan para un crecimiento y desarrollo óptimos. Consigue aqui tu Adlite: https://marshydro.eu/collections/adlite-supplemental-lights/ 🏠 : Marshydro 1.50 x 1.50 x 1.80, carpa 100% estanca con ventanas laterales para llegar a todos los lugares durante el grow https://marshydro.eu/products/diy-150x150x200cm-grow-tent-kit 🌬️💨 Marshydro 6inch + filtro carbon para evitar olores indeseables. https://marshydro.eu/products/ifresh-smart-6inch-filter-kits/ 🍣🍦🌴 Xpert Nutrients es una empresa especializada en la producción y comercialización de fertilizantes líquidos y tierras, que garantizan excelentes cosechas y un crecimiento activo para sus plantas durante todas las fases de cultivo. Consigue aqui tus Nutrientes: https://xpertnutrients.com/es/shop/ 📆 Semana 1 Un comienzo explosivo en solo 3 dias que llevan en floracion gracias a la nueva iluminación de mi patrocinador Marshydro, gracias al Adlite y como no a la gran gama de nutrientes de XpertNutrients. Continuo con las dosis de nutrientes recomendadas por el fabricante, esta vez el olor es penetrante y eso que todavia no tiene desarrollada las flores. En algunos ejemplares se pueden apreciar lindas preflores hembras.

On day 1 I changed out my reservoir, and added my bloom nutes, adjusted my light schedule to 12/12 and defoliated the plants. I adjusted the reservoirs PH to 6.1 My hope is that by flipping this cultivar earlier than my last run, I will not run out of vertical space ;). On day 2 I adjusted my reservoirs PH down to 6.1. On day 3 the clawing is almost completely gone. I adjusted the reservoirs PH down to 6.1. On day 4 the reservoir's PH is at 6.1. I defoliated the plants removing anything blocking lower growth to increase light and air penetration of my mains. On day 5 the reservoirs PH is 6.1. On day 6 I adjusted the PH of the reservoir up from 6.0 to 6.3. I will let the PH drift between 6.1-6.3. on day 7 the reservoirs PH is 6.2. I lowered the light intensity from 100% to 85% to give the top of my plant canopy an average PPFD of 700-1000. I plan to reduce the intensity as the plants continue to stretch to keep them in the 800-1000 PPFD range. I just got my first quantum par sensor and I'm really loving the new data it gives me to optimize my lighting.

All going fine. Terps smell getting more intense. Dated the booster today. Ph now on 6.5. Light on 70% Happy Xmas and a lot of green trees 🎅🏼💚

Last week or maybe less then a week 🤔 Day 127 Mon PH 6.0 EC 0.2 PPM 70 DLI PPFD Water 18c Day 128 Tue PH 5.8 EC 0.2 PPM 70 DLI PPFD Water 17c Day 129 Wed Add Ph Up PH 5.6 - 5.9 EC 0.2 PPM 80 - 90 DLI PPFD Water 18c Day 130 Thu Add water PH 5.6 - 5.7 EC 0.2 - 0.2 PPM 100 - 90 DLI PPFD Water 20

Buds are really setting up nicely. French Macaron smells right on brand... and the Chem Brulee... my god! It smells like a Tropical Rocket Fuel. Amazong. The Pineapple Meatball has a really unique odor, but it is still fairly faint. Hoping that the neem/nute burn didn't somehow affect its resin/terp/bud production. It certainly hasn't seemed to affect the French Macaron and the Chem Brulee! This week, I sprayed 3 times with Dr Zymes, and it completely knocked out the small number of fungus gnats I was dealing with. Also released 4,500 ladybugs, and it's been fun watching them spread and work. Will probably stick with the once-per-week Zymes treatment for the next few weeks.

She is looking so good I am so excited plant grows amazing love the struckture seams to resist desise and pest Wow!!

Looks like she's getting close! Buds are nicely plump and dense! Plenty of cloudy trichomes. I'm looking for the first amber trichome to harvest. I want this to be uplifting not couch lock.

I think she's suffering from some light burn from my LED's, take a look at the pics of the top bud sites. I completely rearranged my tent and got the LED on her side up as far as it can go. I hope that helps. The buds themselves look completely fine but the sugar leaves are turning dark purple and yellow. This is only happening on the upper most bud sites. Any other feedback suggestions are welcome. Please comment away.🙏 I got some Fox Farms Organic Big Bloom this week and added it with Recharge in this weeks feeding. Looking forward to seeing the results. Feb 5, 2018 update: Raised the LED light even more and removed most of the damaged leaves.

Part of an 8pot tent. Sweet seeds always has been a great experience from seed to smoke. All the senses get a good dance when growing with this bank. So can’t say any better - looking forward to building a nice sweet seed variety. These are waiting for a Harvest in coming weeks so we have them around the place being looked after by spider leg LED fir the early stages. On mobile so will add nutrients to the diary as we go. Can’t have anyone thinking I’m feeding seed full clip lol.

Some pronounced curling on some of the leaves of one plant to keep an eye on but other than that nothing major. Could be, and I feel most likely, from the accident with the fan heater as the lights are a good distance away. Don't think it's stopping them much as the frost has really started to spread over the buds

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