On week 5 of actual flowering the plants are coming along nicely and HSC GSC is looking the best so far but its still early :) WW is slow to start flowering just small amount of pistils so far small buds looks more like week 3 or 4 as far as flowering progression.

Hola gente, terminamos la 5ta semana de vegetación, esta semana hice un riego con bloom y top max, ademas de grow para empezar a preparar a las niñas para floración, durante el resto de la semana regué con agua a 6.1 de ph y 0,4 de ec porque estaba un poco alta la ec del sustrato. He estado sacando hojas que hagan mucha sombra. Hice el cambio de fotoperiodo hoy.

Good evening, my friends. I am not good at fertilizers, so I use banana water and fertilizer for ornamental plants. I am now on the 30th day. What are your opinions?

The Gorilla Cookies are still doing alright, but 2 of 3 are showing some lockout or deficiencies. Despite this they are still doing ok. The one that doesn’t have this issue is doing great, getting fat and greasy! They are starting to stink up my house, had to turn the fan off Auto and just keep it running non stop otherwise my entire house smells like the good good 😊 I’m not super concerned, I checked the runoff, and it wasn’t too out of wack, 6.4 ph… the leaves look like they are having some serious P and K deficiencies, but I don’t want to feed anymore as we are approaching the end of their cycle fast, and they are continuing to develop, just not as good as they could have. RH was lowered, and temps have been consistent 77-79 degrees. Watering now approx. 3 litres every 4-5 days but I expect this to slow down soon. Happy Gardening 👊🇨🇦❤️🌱

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Must thank to ripper seed that provide me with these awesome bean🙇‍♂️ 21/2/24 Transplant clone Vegetative stage Light and Enviroments💡💧 Light 18/6 (06.00 AM - 12.00 PM) Aim VPD around 0.7-0.9 Temp26-28 RH70-80 DLI 16-18 PPFD 200-300 21/2/24 Transplant clone Vegetative stage Light and Enviroments💡💧 Light 18/6 (06.00 AM - 12.00 PM) Aim VPD around 0.7-0.9 Temp26-28 RH70-80 DLI 16-18 PPFD 200-300 22/2/24 Water 15L+Silica m/ fulvic 16ml(half) @0.1ec +V1 130ml @1.2Ec+V2 125ml @2Ec Ph 5.4 +Silica m/ Fulvic 25ml @PH6 Ec2.1 @11.00PM -Up to 6.2 @08.00AM 23/2/24 Last batch mix @ph5.7 2.30min shot 180ml 24/2/24 Tents feed 19 drippers @25min per min Water3.8L+Silica mix Fulvic 6ml+1ml root exceluration+BushDoctor5ml total 0.3Ec +V1 40ml @1.3Ec(50%)+V2 30ml final@2EC Ph5.7 1min shot every 4and half hours total 4 shots 07.30 Am 12.00 Am 04.00 Pm 09.00 Pm 25/2/24 🏕️ Water 5L+Silica mix Fulvic+V1 45ml+V2 35ml Ph5.6 EC 2 1shot every 3hrs First shot 12 AM 03.00 PM 26/2/24 🏕️ Last batch mix feed 1Min feed 12.00 AM 03.00 PM Veg Foliar last 5min before lights off 27/2/24 🏕️ Water5L+Silica mix Fulvic 7ml+V1 40ml @1EC +V2 40ml @2EC Ph5.7 2Min feed 12.00 AM 03.55 PM 06.25 PM 09.15 PM 1min feed, hand watering to adjust any underwatering 28/2/24 Water 16L+Rhino Skin 15ml @0.1EC+Calmag 15ml @0.3EC PH6.9 + V1 125ml @1.2EC+V2 120ml @2EC PH6.2 adjust to PH5.6 Dryback right now is 15% for 24hrs ⛺ Feed 08.50 AM 1.30Min 02.25 PM 1Min 04.50 PM 1Min hand watering to adjust any underwatering Defoliation most big fans leave

So I had some internet issues so I couldn't upload. But now everything is alright. This last week I only gave her water 2 times. first time I gave her 500 ml water and the second time only 250 ml water only. And I took more fan leafs off her as you can see I only had to hang her up without trimming or anything. After she is dried I am going to weigh her and see how much I got. ***************************************************************************************************** As for grow report : Blue kush is really easy to grow just make sure the temps optimal. The buds grow really dense thats 1 of the parts I like about this strain. She takes normal feeding. Very strong genetics. And she can take a few mistakes so this strain is perfect for beginners and in medium or expert hands she can get really nice with the colors and smell and taste. Next week i will post the weight and the dried product.

wondering when to top them

Since day one she has been a great plant with a lot of growth in her first few weeks of vegetative growth. The team at fastbuds has some great strains and this blackberry has to be my absolute favourite so far... It has the most intense berry smell ever and skunky to boot. I'm getting excited for this girl to be harvested so this week I'm starting the flush and am aiming for a dry 6 days and the cure ..The nutrients have been stopped and now its just the waiting game ..cheers

Nightmare having 2 plants maturing nearly 3 weeks faster than the other 2

… I had 1 Sour Jealousy left over from the summer grow and still had plenty of promotion seeds from Sweet Seeds preserved in my seed bank. So I thought I'd let your favorite varieties compete against each other. As an autumnal challenge. At the same time, I upgraded my sphere of action properly and so I thought, let the last grow in my Secret Jardin HS 80 start a tricky experiment. Done, done! I couldn't look that fast, so incredibly fast did Sour Jealousy see the light of day - lots of auxins! I had to give birth to all three Sweet Seeds. Remove the peel and peel off the seminal vesicle. I love this act. Filigree precision. All 4 were born in Root it - Rooting Gel. And off to the fabric shoes - as always 17.5 liters for everyone. Super Soil reprocessed with: - Perlite, - Startrex, - Pre Mix, - some peat-free potting soil - Mycotrex - Dynomyco - 1 Biotabs per shoe - before fermented Orgatrex/Bactrex vaccination at the end of the 1st week

These are looking solid, I just started lowering ppm today I'm trying to hsrvest these fairly early. I already started the flush for the girl in the 1 gallon pot it finished quicker than then others. Everything is healthy as it could be right now. The heater made such a big difference I couldn't be happier with how these are growing at this point hopefully it keeps up. Been removing fan leaves here and there but I'm trying to hold off until day 21 and I might give them all a pretty heavy leaf strip. I read something saying defoliate heavy on day 21 and 42 to increase yields so I might give that a shot. These lights are the real deal I got a meter and even tho I barely know how to read it I'm getting much better canopy penetration and the flexibility of having 4 separate units instead of 2 is going to come in handy. Soon I will put all the shorter plants on one side and tall on the other and adjust the lights accordingly. If anyone is interested in these lights or a tent or green buzz liquids or rain science grow bags you can use the code bangdang for 10%. Pretty much everything I use will be 10% off with the code so if you want to grow the bangdang use the code. This Corona virus has hit around here and I just want to remind everyone again to do their part and try to stay out of crowded spaces, wash your hands and take care of eachother. It's a worldwide pandemic everyone can relate to and the best way to beat it with the least possible damage seems to be to isolate yourself since younger people can carry it without any symptoms. It can be easy to transmit it to your parents or grandparents that might have a weaker immune system. Better safe than sorry. I need the NBA back asap too The code ' bangdang ' will get you 10% off at the follow companies. @rainscience_growbags @growlightscience.led *NEW @greenbuzzliquids *NEW @gorilla_grow_tent Gorilla grow tent discounts extend to all companies affiliated with grow strong industries which inclue @super.closet Lotus Nutrients Kind LED grow lights

Going great. Just topped, transplanting by Saturday into final 5 gallon smart pots. 1/4 nutes. Probably fire up the MH after transplant.

Shortly after they were switched to flowering (after week 3) the plants continue to stretch and then start to develop their first flowers. Now in week 7 all plants have very nice flower clusters all over the plant and side branches. They have grown to 45 cm (=Shiva Skunk on left side) and 40 cm (Serious Kush on right side of aisle) in height respectively and all plants have a nice dark green color, which shows they are healthy and also that the Advanced Nutrients schedule works like a treat. The Q6W-Gen.2 LED-Lamps are now dimmed to 100% (=three green LEDs on the dimmer) and work on FULL POWER, which ensures full fledged flower production. Both varieties have now started to exude their typical aroma. The Shiva Skunk starts to smell musky and sweet, while the Serious Kush smells 'gassy' and 'fuely' like its OG-Kush heritage. The flower clusters on the Serious Kush appear to grow denser than the clusters on the Shiva Skunk.

She is doing amazing!! Topped her 4 days ago with no stress at all. Trying LST on her too.

Anche queste albicocche crescono molto bene.....sempre complimenti a fast buds e a me🤣😂💪.sono robuste e anche lei con tanti punti dove fiorire....

Vanilla Latte is driving me crazy... others are going Ok!...