"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

Ciao a tutti, sembrerebbe crescere veramente bene!!! Le cime iniziano a crescere sempre di più. E' veramente una pianta meravigliosa, facile da coltivare e per il momento non sembra presentare alcun problema. Sembra apprezzare il calore e la luce del sole. Buona coltivazione a tutti👊👊👊 Hi everyone, it seems to be growing really well!!! The buds start to grow more and more. It is truly a wonderful plant, easy to grow and for the moment it does not seem to present any problems. It seems to appreciate the warmth and light of the sun. Happy cultivation everyone👊👊👊

Día 108 (16/09) Tras el flush las plantas muestran tímidamente nuevos pistilos blancos! 😍 Hoy no es necesario regar! Día 109 (17/09) Me he encontrado a OnionOG #1 y a Purple Punsh completamente sedientas! Con las hojas caídas! Riego con 1,25 litros de H2O a cada una de ellas (el resto no necesitan riego) Día 110 (18/09) Riego con 500 ml H2O Las plantas con el bloqueo empiezan a mostrar nuevos pistilos, sobre todo en las partes inferiores Día 111 (19/09) Riego con 250 / 500 ml H2O Se vuelven a formar pistilos blancos en todas las plantas que han sufrido el bloqueo! 😍💥 OnionOG #1 va como un cohete formando y apilando flores 💪 🚀 😍 Día 112 (20/09) Día lluvioso. Riego ligero 250 ml H2O Día 113 (21/09) Otro día lluvioso. Riego ligero con 250 ml Día 114 (22/09) Detecto algunas moscas blancas apoderándose de las plantas y decido hacer una aplicación foliar de piretrinas (Spruzit a 15 ml / l) Riego con 1 Litro de Té Floración de Lurpe Solutions. Preparación: 24 horas con bomba de aire (oxigenación) con ingredientes: Healthy Harvest 8 ml/L + Insect Frass 16 ml/L + Kelp Hidrolizado 0,3 g/L 💦Nutrients by Lurpe Solutions - www.lurpenaturalsolutions.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae

Flowering

week 2 !!

End of Week 15 (8th week of flower) Still cruising, everything has been running very smoothly and the smell is just undoubtedly off the charts. The ladies are showing off some colour and are fading naturally bringing out hues of orange and purple. I also noticed that the leaves and buds closest to the lights are showing significantly more colour that the ones that are further away. The colas are also getting heavy and there are some side colas that are hanging and needed to be reinforced to keep them upright. (This is a good thing obviously) I know I said I would start the flush (not giving any more nutrients/top-ups) but I decided to give them a small dose of Boom Bloom just to give the ladies that final boost. I boosted them in the middle of the week and the flush has begun after that. Only water from now until harvest. Pest Report: None Smell Report: HEAVEN

New rule: If your fan leaves aren't bigger than your hand and super green after a month of veg in 3 gallon pot then you got the wrong genetics or something.

this is week 5/6 of my super OG autoflower. I would like some feedback as this is my first grow. Using a small areogarden with 10w led and a separate 80/100w grow light. Red blue bulbs. Not sure the leafs looking that great? What do you guys think? I cut some fan leafs off due to the bottom of the plant not getting so much light. Is this ok to do? Feedback please. Thanks guys

Eccoci qui... Finalmente dopo uno stop per il lavoro torno ad aggiornare il diario con il capitolo finale... Sono stato davvero sorpreso da questa piccola che nonostante avesse una piccola carenza si è dimostrata molto vigorosa generando cime davvero compatte e resinose!!! Grazie a @MSNL e ad @Xpertnutrients per la collab e a tutti per il supporto🔥🌲❤️ NE VERRANNO DELLE BELLE

Day 17 17/07/24 Wednesday De-chlorinated tap water pH 6 with calmag 5ml -5L. Very humid week, noticed a green turning colour on top of soils where the humidity has been far to high. I have installed door netting and recently left open all day and night now so they can condition over night in colder temps. All are doing well, one overdose slightly behind and looking ABIT swifted. But she'll come around 💪💚 Day 19 19/07/24 Friday Lite Feed today, 250ml each pot small run off. Seeing excellent start to these babies. Let's get it 👌💚 Day 21 21/07/24 Sunday De-chlorinated tap water pH 6 with calmag 5ml to 5L. Watering in 1L each day from now. Updated video

Привет друзья. Моей растихе сегодня 34 дня. Начал применять LST технику на 19 дне и продалжаю применять её через день, а 18 августа добавил ДЕФОЛИЗАЦИЮ С 20.08 ДЕФОЛИЗАЦИЮ делаю каждые 3,4 дня С 20.08 LST технику делаю каждые 3.4 дня На сегодняшний день влажность 63% Растение растёт хорошо. генетика радует. Всем мира и добра! #Smail_Seeds

Day 20 of Flower Flowers already nice and frosty. Last of the Bat guano. Going to use Biocanna BioFlores. Going to hit her with 8ml/l and then 4ml/l after that. Very faint discoloring on a couple of leaves.

Very strong bud growth this week! I have 1 out of the five that its quite a bit ahead of the others, I will post a photo of her main cola. Otherwise, they are looking fantastic. Smelling amazing also. Today is day 77. So the end of week 11. Looking forward to going to space on these mango beauty's! Introduced them to black strap molasses tonight in their feeding. Ph water to 6.2 with 5ml of mollases per gallon. This will be my first go with mollases, hoping it helps build bud density!

What a great week it’s been!today is day 65 from seed!! One of the Forbiddin Runtz got it’s last feeding on Friday and will get flushed for 2 weeks and will be ready for dry and cure! The rest will still remain getting same dose of nutes the rest of this week and most likely into the next! This batch felt like it went so quick ! Hope you all enjoy an watch out for next week !

Start all seeds together super now we must wait and wait and wait on the next days better together Thank You follow me guys and YT HAPPY NEW YEAR !!?😅💚

Hello Diary. At the end of the story, I am very happy with the whole cycle and finally the outcome. 😍 More or less all the information is in the diary, there are really a lot of photos that speak more than words. What I would point out at the end of this story, the Hulkberries were different. One was more developed in width and that eventually had a higher yield as well. He reached a height of 105cm, while the other was more developed in height and grew to 117cm. But the Hulkberry is a great sativa strain, I didn’t have any problems throughout the cycle, I didn’t do any training I just did a little defoliation twice. 👌 The branches were dried for 12 days after which they were finished in jars for another three weeks. In the end I would like to thank the Royal Queen Seeds for making this wonderful strain, Grow Diaries where I can learn, and share something I really love. Thanks to everyone who stopped by and looked at the diary, squeezed the like button or commend the diary. See you soon with new journey.