D35 - The first day in the first week of flower. She was getting thirsty, so I gave her 1.2-liters of water @ pH 6.2 and, as always, she drooped after. My old humidifier died on me, so today, I got a new one. It's a smaller version of the one in my other tent, and it is the cutest little thing, but hey, it doesn't need to be mighty for that tiny tent. I also got a new Inkbird to keep the RH constant. I already use one of those in my other tent, but I opted for the WiFi version this time. I shouldn't have bothered, though, as all it does is display the RH but doesn't allow the app to control the Inkbird. Pointless as I already have remote temp/RH monitoring. D40 - Today, I did some more LST and light defoliation to ensure proper airflow. The canopy shadowed the leaves I removed, so they weren't contributing much anyway. I've increased how much light she is getting since she is in flower, but I have to be careful due to the younger Chocodope girl in the same tent. Currently, I'm reading around 650 PPFD at canopy level but will increase that over time until I hit about 900 PPFD. Finally, I gave her about 0.6-liters of water @ pH 6.5. D41 - The end of the first week of flower, and all is well.

Green light is radiation with wavelengths between 520 and 560 nm and it affects photosynthesis, plant height, and flowering. Plants reflect green light and this is why they appear green to our eyes. As a result, some growers think that plants don’t use green wavelengths, but they actually do! In fact, only around 5 – 10% of green light is reflected from leaves and the rest (90 – 95 %) is absorbed or transmitted to lower leaves [1]. Green wavelengths get used in photosynthesis. Chlorophyll pigments absorb small amounts of green wavelengths. Light that doesn’t get absorbed is transmitted to leaves that are shaded out from direct light. This means that leaves at the bottom of the canopy get more green light than leaves at the top. A high proportion of green wavelengths compared to other colors tells lower leaves that they are being shaded out, so they are able to react accordingly. Lower leaves may react by opening or closing their stomata or growing longer stems that help the leaves reach brighter light [1, 2, 3]. When it comes to growing cannabis, many cultivators are interested in the quality of light used for the flowering stage. In many plants, flowering is regulated by two main photoreceptors: cryptochrome and phytochrome. Both photoreceptors primarily respond to blue light but can also respond to green, although to a lesser extent. Green can accelerate the start of flowering in several species (although cannabis has yet to be tested) [1, 4, 5]. However, once flowering has begun, it’s important to provide plants with a “full spectrum” light that has high amounts of blue and red light, and moderate amounts of green, in order for photosynthesis to be optimized. Green light mediates seed germination in some species. Seeds use green wavelengths to decide whether the environment is good for germination. Shade environments are enriched in green relative to red and blue light, so a plant can tell if it is shady or sunny. A seed that senses a shaded environment may stay dormant to avoid poor growing conditions [1]. Some examples of plant species where researchers have documented this response are: ryegrass (a grass that grows in tufts) and Chondrilla (a plant related to dandelion) [1, 6]. Although green wavelengths generally tell plants NOT to germinate, there are some exceptions! Surprisingly, green wavelengths can stimulate seed germination in some species like Aeschynomene, Tephrosia, Solidago, Cyrtopodium, and Atriplex [1, 6, 7]. Of course, light is not the only factor affecting seed germination – it’s a combination of many factors, such as soil moisture, soil type, temperature, photoperiod, and light quality. When combined with red and blue light, green can really enhance plant growth [1, 8]. However, too much green light (more than 50% of the total light) can actually reduce plant growth [8]. Based on the most current research, the ideal ratio of green, red, and blue light is thought to be around 1:2:1 for green:blue:red [9]. When choosing a horticultural light, choose one that has high amounts of blue and red light and moderate amounts of green and other colors of light. Not many studies can be found about the effect of green light on cannabis growth or metabolism. However, if one reads carefully, there are clues and data available even from the very early papers. Mahlberg and Hemphill (1983) used colored filters in their study to alter the sunlight spectrum and study green light among others. They concluded that the green filter, which makes the environment green by cutting other wavelengths out, reduced the THC concentration significantly compared to the daylight control treatment. It has been demonstrated that green color can reduce secondary metabolite activity with other species as well. For example, the addition of green to a light spectrum decreases anthocyanin concentration in lettuce (Zhang and Folta 2012). If green light only reverses the biosynthesis of some secondary metabolites, then why put green light into a growth spectrum at all? Well, there are a couple of good reasons. One is that green penetrates leaf layers effectively. Conversely red and blue light is almost completely absorbed by the first leaf layer. Green travels through the first, second, and even third layers effectively (Figure 2). Lower leaf layers can utilize green light in photosynthesis and therefore produce yields as well. Even though a green light-specific photoreceptor has not yet been found, it is known that green light has effects independent from the cryptochrome but then again, also cryptochrome-dependent ones, just like blue light. It is known that green light in low light intensity conditions can enhance far red stimulating secondary metabolite production in microgreens and then again, counteracts the production of these compounds in high-intensity light conditions (Kim et al. 2004). In many cases, green light promoted physiological changes in plants that are opposite to the actions of blue light. In the study by Kim et al. blue light-induced anthocyanin accumulation was inhibited by green light. In another study it has been found that blue light promotes stomatal opening whereas green light promotes stomatal closure (Frechilla et al. 2000). Blue light inhibits the early stem elongation in the seedling stage whereas green light promotes it (Folta 2004). Also, blue light results in flowering induction, and green light inhibits it (Banerjee et al., 2007). As you can see, green light works very closely with blue light, and therefore not only the amount of these two wavelengths separately is important but also the ratio (Blue: Green) between these two in the designed spectrum. Furthermore, green light has been found to affect the elongation of petioles and upward leaf reorientation with the model plant Arabidopsis thaliana both of which are a sign of shade avoidance symptoms (Zhang et al. 2011) and also gene expression in the same plant (Dhingra et al. 2006). As mentioned before, green light produces shade avoidance symptoms which are quite intuitive if you consider the natural conditions where the plants grow. Not all the green light is reflected from the highest canopy leaves in nature but a lot of it (50-90%) has been estimated to penetrate the upper leaves at the plant level ((Terashima et al., 2009; Nishio, 2000). For the plant growing in the understory of the forest green light is a signal for the plant of being in the shade of a bigger plant. Then again, the plants growing under unobstructed sunlight can take advantage of the green photons that can more easily penetrate the upper leaves than the red and blue photons. From the photosynthetic pigments in higher plants, chlorophyll is crucial for plant growth. Dissolved chlorophyll and absorb maximally in the red (λ600–700 nm) and blue (λ400–500 nm) regions of the spectrum and not as easily in the green (λ500–600 nm) regions. Up to 80% of all green light is thought to be transmitted through the chloroplast (Terashima et al., 2009) and this allows more green photons to pass deeper into the leaf mesophyll layer than red and blue photons. When the green light is scattered in the vertical leaf profile its journey is lengthened and therefore photons have a higher chance of hitting and being absorbed by chloroplasts on their passage through the leaf to the lower leaves of the plant. Photons of PPFD (photosynthetic photon flux density) are captured by chlorophyll causing an excitation of an electron to enter a higher energy state in which the energy is immediately passed on to the neighboring chlorophyll molecule by resonance transfer or released to the electron transport chain (PSII and PSI). Despite the low extinction coefficient of chlorophyll in the green 500–600 nm region it needs to be noted that the absorbance can be significant if the pigment (chlorophyll) concentration in the leaf is high enough. The research available clearly shows that plants use green wavelengths to promote higher biomass and yield (photosynthetic activity), and that it is a crucial signal for long-term developmental and short-term dynamic acclimation (Blue:Green ratio) to the environment. It should not be dismissed but studied more because it brings more opportunities to control plant gene expression and physiology in plant production. REFERENCES Banerjee R., Schleicher E., Meier S. Viana R. M., Pokorny R., Ahmad M., Bittl R., Batschauer. 2007. The signaling state of Arabidopsis cryptochrome 2 contains flavin semiquinone. The Journal of Biological Chemistry 282, 14916–14922. Dhingra, A., Bies, D. H., Lehner, K. R., and Folta, K. M. 2006. Green light adjusts the plastic transcriptome during early photomorphogenic development. Plant Physiol. 142, 1256-1266. Folta, K. M. 2004. Green light stimulates early stem elongation, antagonizing light-mediated growth inhibition. Plant Physiol. 135, 1407-1416. Frechilla, S., Talbott, L. D., Bogomolmi, R. A., and Zeiger, E. 2000. Reversal of blue light -stimulated stomatal opening by green light. Plant Cell Physiol. 41, 171-176. Kim, H.H., Goins, G. D., Wheeler, R. M., and Sager, J. C. 2004.Green-light supplementation for enhanced lettuce growth under red- and blue-light emitting diodes. HortScience 39, 1617-1622. Nishio, J.N. 2000. Why are higher plants green? Evolution of the higher plant photosynthetic pigment complement. Plant Cell and Environment 23, 539–548. Terashima I., Fujita T., Inoue T., Chow W.S., Oguchi R. 2009. Green light drives leaf photosynthesis more efficiently than red light in strong white light: revisiting the enigmatic question of why leaves are green. Plant & Cell Physiology 50, 684–697. Zhang, T., Maruhnich, S. A., and Folta, K. M. 2011. Green light induces shade avoidance symptoms. Plant Physiol. 157, 1528-156. Wang, Y. & Folta, K. M. Contributions of green light to plant growth and development. Am. J. Bot. 100, 70–78 (2013). Zhang, T. & Folta, K. M. Green light signaling and adaptive response. Plant Signal. Behav. 7, 75–78 (2012). Johkan, M. et al. Blue light-emitting diode light irradiation of seedlings improves seedling quality and growth after transplanting in red leaf lettuce. HortScience 45, 1809–1814 (2010). Kasajima, S., et al. Effect of Light Quality on Developmental Rate of Wheat under Continuous Light at a Constant Temperature. Plant Prod. Sci. 10, 286–291 (2007). Banerjee, R. et al. The signaling state of Arabidopsis cryptochrome 2 contains flavin semiquinone. J. Biol. Chem. 282, 14916–14922 (2007). Goggin, D. E. & Steadman, K. J. Blue and green are frequently seen: responses of seeds to short- and mid-wavelength light. Seed Sci. Res. 22, 27–35 (2012). Mandák, B. & Pyšek, P. The effects of light quality, nitrate concentration and presence of bracteoles on germination of different fruit types in the heterocarpous Atriplex sagittata. J. Ecol. 89, 149–158 (2001). Darko, E. et al. Photosynthesis under artificial light: the shift in primary and secondary metabolism. Philos. Trans. R. Soc. B Biol. Sci. 369 (2014). Lu, N. et al. Effects of Supplemental Lighting with Light-Emitting Diodes (LEDs) on Tomato Yield and Quality of Single-Truss Tomato Plants Grown at High Planting Density. Environ. Control Biol. 50, 63–74 (2012).

Only water :-)

* Week 3-4 Veg (10/15) she has grown sufficiently in a work, Topped 4 colas and have added nutrients. Water feeds everyday and nute feeds every other.*

2024-08-31 Tangerine Snow F1 fast, performs like a Queen, iam so impressed by this Strain, really the bet i have grown for long time in and outdoors!!! The Outdoor Girl, soaks in the Perfect weather Conditions , she loves her spotunder the Roof in good Company. She drinks and eats like a champ, but as you can see she needs it. Sher performs like a Plant that sits in open Ground, but she is into ( only) 15 L Growbag. thats awsome The revegetating Girl She shows sweet new Flowers already ( she was harvested weeks ago, and i let her revegetate outdoors) so we are going to have another Harvest here. iam super fascinated. BREEDER INFO Tangerine Snow F1 Fast Feminised is a 75% sativa, four-way cross of (Boost x Tangelo) with (Lavender x Power Plant). This Fast F1 hybrid is bred from Cali genetics and boasts great citrus terps, high resin production for extracts, high levels of THC, very good yields and excellent mould resistance. Tangerine Snow F1 Fast can be grown indoors as well as outdoors. Indoor flowering times are between 8 - 10 weeks while harvest time in northern latitudes is during September while in the southern hemisphere growers will be harvesting during March. Recommended climate regions are hot, dry, humid and warm. These are tall, semi-branched plants that grow in excess of 200cm and display a high degree of vigour with very good uniformity. In common with many other heavily sativa-dominant strains, Tangerine Snow F1 Fast offers excellent resistance to mould as well as to plant pests and diseases. The combination of citrus terps and plenty of resin makes thi a very good extract strain with the 'washing' method delivering very good yields of hash. The citrus terpene profile is reminiscent of mandarins and tangerines and also has sweet candy notes. THC production has been lab-verified at a strong 24% while CBD is low. The effect is uplifting and energising, perfect for use during the day and early evening.

11.02.: So far everything is well under control. temperature and humidity are well adjusted. We will see how it goes on. The gold juice is intended as food (sugar) for the microorganisms. Light intensity: 25% —————————————————————— 12.02.: Day 9! water values ​​checked: RO Water Temp. 18,1 degrees 015 ppm 5,7 PH water value After adding 0,5ml/1L CalMag (BioBizz) Temp. 18,1 degrees 054 ppm 6,3 PH fertilized with BioGrow for the first time. (3g/1L substrate) —————————————————————— 15.02.: Day 12! Today I drop the humidifier from 85% to 80% The plants now use the water relatively quickly. now has to water every two days. Before watering the pots had 125g and after watering 180g. Poured with RO water and 0.3ml/1L CalMag values: water: 028 ppm 19 degrees drain: 765 ppm 19 degrees The roots looking perfect! Soon the little ladies will be in their 19 liter fabric pots! —————————————————————— 16.02.: Day 13! Today I changed the light intensity to 37%. Everythig looking great. —————————————————————— 17.02.: Day 14! Today I repotted the ladies into their 19 liter fabric pots. Composition per pot: - 19 liters of BioBizz light mix - 55g BioGrow - Greenhouse Feeding - The roots were powdered with Rootmax and Bactrex. - 3 liters RO water (017ppm) (15% of pot) - 0.9ml Calmag - BioBizz (029ppm) - 3g BioEnhancer - GH Feeding (154ppm) Light intensity increased to 42% Room temperature 25 degrees 75% humidity ——————————————————————

Week 6 Day 1 9/16/2023 Still on Vacation! Week 6 Day 2 9/17/2023 Back from Vacation.. The PH was down to 5.57 and the water was almost to the ring on the 3inch pipe in the Res.. Which is Low.. So Next trip I take, I will add the additional water and Nutes to as close to the net pot as I feel comfortable with. Added: 10 gallons of Water CALMag- .75mil/Gal GH FLoraMicro-4.2mil/Gal GH FlroaGro-4.0mil/Gal GH FLroaBloom-3.8Mil/Gal ORCA-.5mil/Gal I decided that I wanted to take clones tonight. I took 4 of each and I will cull 2 of each in a few weeks when they are ready, I am going to do a short breeding run with these, Reverse them and Flip them at about week 3 of Veg. I also gave them an extreme heavy defoliation tonight, and my New Portable AC unit showed up so I installed that. Week 6 Day 3 9/18/2023 letting her recover from the work we did together yesterday. Week 6 Day 4 9/18/2023 Took a few tops today as I start to stretch her out on her side of the tent. Hoping that she catches up to her sister some, so I will super crop her sister to keep her down as I let this little one catch up a little more before I flip to flower. Week 6 Day 5 9/20/2023 Today I received my replacement parts for my Spider-Farmer light that had gone out. Replaced the parts and put the light back in the tent with the clones. Week 6 Day 6 9/21/2023 Today everything looked great!! Week 6 Day 7 9/22/2023 She is now above the mark for flip. Tomorrow is Water change day, which means decision day.. I have to decide if I am going to Flip to flower and fill with Week 1 flower Nutes, or if I am going to let it go for another week and just start super cropping. Either way I will be super cropping soon but not sure if it will be starting tomorrow through the first week of flower or just starting tomorrow through the last week of Veg and growing through the first week of flower. The plant shall tell the tell tomorrow.

We have made it to day 42! 31/12/20 All the girls have started flowering now! I'm super keen to see them start to thicken up. Feeding as usual, nothings changed. Update - day 46 04/01/21 I'm a little concerned about the 2 runts that were laggin behind the rest, all of a sudden theyve decided they want to take up most of the room in the tent. I've never grown autos so big.. I was contemplating putting the runts outside but it's just going to make more problems as my outdoors are under attack from some kind of bug. I will keep the diary updated on the runts, other than that the other girls are doing just great, flowering is really coming along. Thanks for stopping by!

It’s the eighth week of flowering, and the plant is looking absolutely gorgeous! The buds and leaves have turned a deep purple with rich autumn hues, giving the plant such a unique, almost magical appearance. The sweet smell has become even stronger and fills the whole grow space with a powerful, sugary aroma. 🍬🌿 I’ve noticed the trichomes starting to turn an amber color—just the sign I’ve been waiting for! Most of them are still milky, but the amber hints show we’re getting close. This week, I’ve started the flushing process to clear out any remaining nutrients and prepare for harvest. 💧 Everything’s on track, and I couldn’t be more excited for the final steps! 😁✨

Esta preciosa cepa ha crecido bastante rápido llegando a ser la más alta del armario, durante la floración ha creado unas increíbles flores llenas de resina que poco a poco se caían del peso de las mismas. Una locura de genética que todos deberíamos de cultivar al menos una vez. Espero que os guste estas bonitas fotos.

Love this 1st grow. Even though its small. Hope I got good weight out of this. Smells great whenever I open my cupboard. Cant wait for my next grow green gelato auto. 😁

Week 9

16" wide by 9" high, leaves doubled from week 4. Vigorous growth using bloom 0.50ml / 1L, keeping soil (pro-mix HP) moist daily

LIVING SOIL DEMETEARTH SYSTEM THE HIGH CHAMELEON 🦎 ⚡-15% + 2 Seeds⚡ CODE PROMO : VAN-TERPEN420 https://linktr.ee/vanterpen

My plant is growing pretty well. She has developed many new nodes, since I used fertilizer last wednesday. I want to top her next wednesday or so, becuase of my limited tent-height. I also put the light from 14 DLI to 20 DLI. I want to increase the intensity every day a bit more to let her slowly adapt. Edit: I rotated her so that she can absorb light evenly and therefore grow evenly. Update 08.04.24: Some roots have reached the surface, so I decided to cover them with some new soil. I also decided to top her today and bend some of her leafes down. Update 09.04.24: I actually didn't want to start LST until next week. The topping is actually intended to strengthen the growth of the secondary branches, but a few of these branches received little light. That's why I decided to start with LST now and continue to enable the growth of the secondary branches.

I Messed Up A DAY Here. So one of the days is dated wrong. I tried to correct it the best that I could. 7/24 I decided to label this week as flower. It's more like preflower though. GMOs are stretching like crazy. Due to the rain we weren't supposed to get some of my plants are a little over watered. That's why I love the fabric pots. With the winds we get the bags dry out fast. The GMO's would've needed water anyway if we didn't get this storm. Event Horizon seems to be the furthest in flower amd the most over watered. WE'LL get a LITTLE more rain today and tomorrow but then hopfully my bags will dry out. They are heavy as hell right now. Had we not got rain for what seems like forever. Several plants would've needed to be watered if we didn't get this rain. Still the plants are currently overwatered. All the pics and video so far are from this morning after the horrible pounding rain of yesterday. Like I said before, I need to; defoliate for better air flow, add secondary supports or a vertical trellis, considering using a preventative pest application (e.g. BT), LST and spread branches apart and start using nutes. 7/25 Wasn't supposed to rain today. Like .001. It poured this morning and is still raining VERY LIGHTLY at 2:30. We got an inch yesterday. The total for these 3 days was suppised to be under half an inch. Anyway I went over around two and everything looks great! Things are clearly overwatered and heavy but the plants look happy! Most have their leaves out and everything! I love growing in bags because they dry out so quickly! I don't mind watering more. I defoliated one event horizon and the few yellow leaves I coukd see on other plants after shaking them off. The seedling in the 50 is far behind the others in flower and just showed its sex. I'm fairly certain that one is red runtz. Whatever it is is going to flower much later than the rest. It's going to be good if I have couple early finishers. I did a video but I'll have to upload tomorrow. I have a lot of work to do And not just in the garden so I'm hoping I can balance things out and get this stuff done. Caught three TINY inch worms. I'm wondering if me manually hunting has cut the adult population down and I'm just getting fresh born ones? If that's the case I wouldn't need to spray. 7/26 Plants looked pretty great today. I think me manually removing pillars has made a big difference. It's windy out too so it won't take long for those bags to dry out. Which is good because what wad supposed to be a half inch of rain turned into 3 straight days of rain. I'll be back over to work on the garden today and I'll update then. 7/27 Plants are looking pretty good. Good weather ahead and the bags are starting to lose weight. Found a pillar wrapped in a dead interior leaf all wrapped up. Found a couple more early this morning amd killed them. I did some slight leafing on some plants. I don't like doing that outdoors but since these are monster cropped they have far to many leaves. Airflow is improved. I'm not seeing any nutrient deficiencies yet. Plants are a vibrant healthy dark green. Soon I'll add a base nute like big bloom or ancient amber (I think that's the one, it's applicable to big bloom). I cam see some plants trying to start flowering and I've got one (in the 50) that has just shown sex. Hopfully this will give me some time between harvests. I'll update as I go along. DAD CALLED IN THE AFTERNOON AND SAID HE THOUGHT A PLANT MIGHT BE STARTING TO DROOP. IT WAS MY GMO CANARY THAT GETS HIT ON ALMOST THREE FULL SIDES BY WIND (ONLY ONE PLANT). I CHECKED THE WEIGHT AND IT WAS LIGHT. IT WAS DROOPING TOO. I WATERED THAT ONE PLANT WITH A GALLON AND WATCHED IT PERK BACK UP. I CHECKED THE WEIGHT ON THE OTHER PLANTS AND LIKE I THOUGHT THEY WERE STILL HEAVY. I PUT MY FINGER IN THE SOIL AND IT CAME AWWY COVERED IN DIRT. MY SEEDLING IN THE 10 WAS KINDA LIGHT SO I GAVE THAT HALF A GALLON. I USED THE OTHER HALF AS "A CUP OF KINDNESS" ON THE PLANTS THAT SEEMED LIGHTEST TO CARRY THEM OVER. I PROBABLY SHOULDVE WAITED BUT I DOUBT IT MATTERS. ILL CHECK IN THE MORNING. I ASSUME ILL HAVE TO WATER THEN OR AT NIGHT. ILL GO BY THE WEIGHT. THE CANARY WILL NEED TO BE ON A SEPERATE SCHEDULE. THATS FOR SURE. Went back over at 6:30 and plants looked better than they have in a long time bags still have some weight. With the sunny weather we are going to have these plants will keep exploding in growth. Found one pillar but I wasn't there long. Seriously considering a spray of BT in the near future. EDIT: UNFORTUNATELY MY SPIDEY SENSE STARTING TINGLING AROUND NOON. MY ANXIETY WONT LET ME IGNORE IT (IM NOW EMBRACING IT) AND I HAD TO CUT OFF A CONVERSATION WITH MY WIFE TO GO TO THE GARDEN. I IMMEDIATELY SAW THAT ONE OF MY GMOS WAS STARTING TO DROOP. NOT LIKE BEFORE BUT IF I HAD BRUSHED IT OFF AND LEFT IT FOR FOUR MORE HOURS IN THE 90° SUN IT WOULD'VE BEEN. I GAVE THE GMO'S (BESIDES THE ONE I GOT YESTERDAY EACH A GALLON. I DIDNT WANT TO WATER DURING THE DAY BUT THIS WAS MY BEST OPTION. I GAVE THE TOASTED TOFFY A GALLON AND THE 2 EVENT HORIZONS EACH GOT HALF A GALLON, AS WELL AS THE SHERB PIE WHICH GOT HALF A GALLON. I DECIDED TO DO THIS BECAUSE SOME PLANTS USE MORE WATER THAN OTHERS. BEFORE ACTUALLY GOING OVER I CONSULTED MY PREVIOS DIARIES. I HAD THIS SANE PROBLEM LAST YEAR ON THE SAME WEEK OF THE MONTH! THATS WHAT MADE ME TRUST MY INTUITION FULLY. I LEARNED FROM THE MISTAKE OF LAST YEAR. THINGS ARE GOING GOOD. IM STARTING NUTES SOON AND I NEED TO SPEAY FOR BT BUT DONT KNOW IF IT WILL BE TONIGHT. 7/29 Apparently my intuition worked out well. Plants looked great this morning. I may feed today. I defoliated a bit and watered the 10g with a half gallon and gave another half gallon to the gmo on the end that dries out fastest and that I didn't water yesterday. I think I've got the watering down. Now I need to start nutes and spray bt. Need to wait for the rain first though. Suppised to get minor showers the next couple days. I'm gonna try to get the trellis up too. WENT BACK A LITTPE AFTER FOUR. HUMiDITY WAS 100% AND IT WAS RAINING VERY LIGHTLY. I MEAN AS LITTLE AS IT CAN POSSIBLY RAIN. ALMOST LIKE WHAT IT FEELS LIKE WITH THOSE MISTING FANS IF YOU STAND BACK A WAYS. I DIDN'T WATER. PLANTS WERE LOOKING GREAT! I DID SOME DEFOLIATION AND CAN TELL I NEED TO START NUTES. I CAN SEE SOME SLIGHT DEFICIENCIES IN BIG OLDER LEAVES. SOME SMALL INTERIOR LEAVES YELLOWED. NOT MANY. GRANTED THEY ARE STARTING TO FLOWER. I'LL PLAN ON FEEDING TOMORROW. THE NEXT FEW DAYS IS SUPPISED TO BE SHOWERS. I DOUBT IT WILL GIVE MY BIG GIRLS ALL THEY NEED BUT IT WILL BE A GOOD START. I DID A VIDEO BUT ITS RATHER LONG SO I CANT UPLOAD IT HERE. ITS COOL WATCHING HOW DIFFERENT THE DIFFERENT STRAINS GROW. STILL HAVE A BUNCH OF SHIT TO DO. IT WILL GET DONE THIS WEEK. 7/30 I held off watering today due to a supposed storm and rain we were supposed to be getting. I had early doctors appointments. I got back around 11 and the bags seemed light. After consulting last years diary I saw that I am underwatering. The root system weighs a lot! We haven't got the hundredths of an inch of rain but we got some sun. It's over cast now. I was there working for a few hours. I watered most a gallon. All the gmo's got a gallon. I gave the two event horizons about two thirds a gallon. About the same with the toasted toffy and the sherb pie. About 3/4 of a gallon as they seemed to have a little weight left. Looking at last years diary there were plants I was giving two gallons at a time in a 20 gal bag so I've been u Der watering a bit. I've caught it now and adjusted. I'm not losing leaves at the pace I have in the past. Even though some are in flower. I think I'm getting better. I fed for the first time today. Each plant got 1.75 pints. Except the 10gallon which got half the powerade bottle and the 5gal which got a qtr. By the time I left the plants were standing up nice and tall and looking amazing. Now I just need to apply bt and secondary supports. 7/31 Another eight day week. I'll have to do six days next week. Everything looked amazing this morning. I'm seeing less pest damage. Watering and feeding was the right move. Now I just have a little rearranging to do, add supports and spray if I decide to.

Lamentablemente dos plantas comenzaron a mostrar el estancamiento y al medir EC de salida se encontró en un nivel de 3.4 por lo que se dará una semana de riego con solo agua. Las de mas atrás están hermosas, siguen engordando aunque no se escaparan de la semana de agua para prevenir alguna futura carencia

Día 1 y todas geminaron vamos a usar lst a todas y algunas lst y poda apical Día 5 desde puesta en sustrato Solo pulverizó

Last week of veg, i think these girls will start to flower the next couple of days! At the moment great results under this TS1000 as always! We gave a very light nutrients this week just to jave some nitrogen as im using a light mix as soil, lets see how it goes the next weeks 😁💪

Day 28: I got home from 10 days of holidays and these girls had cruised along as if I had been there with them the whole time. They are very happy, especially the middle one. The small one on the right has always been small, is what it is. She could be a stack little shorty. Time will tell. I did a feed today, top dressed according to Gaia Green at 15 ml/ gal of media which should last approx 2 weeks. I also added a bit more 444 just to make sure there’s enough N during this stretch phase. All 3 have pistols showing and are starting to flower. I was unable to train as much as I’d have liked but is what it is. Sometimes the more indica strains I’ve done are negatively effected by topping and excess training. I removed a couple huge fans that were shading too much of the plant. I also am trying a “super cropping” of top fans to get them out of the way but still save them as a nute source if they need. We’ll see how it goes. The Vipar spectra xs2000 is killling it as usual. As I’ve said 50 times it’s super powerful and I’ve had to raise the light above recommended height as I started to see leaf edge curl and light stress. No problem at all tho, better too powerful and raise it than too weak and have loose buds. I did a micro top just to stop excessive apical meristem stretch and leaving all the other lower branches too low for effective light absorption or burn on the top cola. Happy Growing 🌱