Week 8 / Flower Week 2 The middle plant is clearly shorter than the other two, but after measuring PPFD this turned out to be no issue. Plant heights were left 59 / middle 40 / right 55 cm with lamp distances of 32 / 55 / 34 cm. The strongest light is in the center, and despite the height differences the average light distribution is very even. PPFD averages were around left ~400 / middle ~415 / right ~380, and after I raised 2 levels up to ~500 / ~525 / ~545 µmol/m²/s Stretch is slowing down and the plants are clearly moving into early flower. During the week I removed yellow and dead leaves and started lollipopping. The lower third was cleaned up and the left plant was lollipopped a bit more. The other plants will be cleaned up further over the next days I think, step by step. I also raised the middle plant slightly at one point to get it closer to the light and improve airflow, which helped after cleaning up the lower part. Watering and feeding followed the HESI schedule. The plants were watered three times this week: At the start of the week, about 10 L with nutrients. Mid-week, roughly 7 L of pH-adjusted water only. On the day of writing this report, end of the week, they were watered again with nutrients at half strength .pH around 6.0-6.5. Yellow sticky traps were added as a preventive measure. Overall I’m happy with how this week went. Everything feels well set up and I’m curious to see how the left plant responds to the more intense lollipopping, since this is the first time I’ve gone this far. I also want to dig deeper into the HESI feeding schedule, I think there’s some room to improve. Thanks for reading, if you made it this far. See you next week 🤘🏼💚

SL started Flowering. Hopefully August and September will be ☀️. Don't worry keep growing

Dank plant alert 🚨 this one is something special!!! The plant stacked pretty well and smells great. It’s a smell I have never smelt b4. The plant is very dank. It finished up really fast only 7 weeks

Legend Timestamp: 📅 EC - pH: ⚗️ Temp - Hum: 🌡️ Water: 🌊 Food: 🍗 pH Correction: 💧 Actions: 💼 Thoughts: 🧠 Events: 🚀 Media: 🎬 D: DAY, G: GERMINATION, V: VEGETATIVE, B: BLOOMING, R: RIPENING, D: DRYING, C: CURING ______________ 📅 D08/V04 - 23/04/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.8 pH: 6 🌡️ T: 24 °C H: 55% 🌊 6L 🍗 Calmag - Grow A-B - B52 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 ______________ 📅 D09/V05 - 24/04/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.0 pH: 6.2 🌡️ T: 22 °C H: 65% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 ______________ 📅 D10/V06 - 25/04/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.1 pH: 6.3 🌡️ T: 21 °C H: 60% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 ______________ 📅 D11/V07 - 26/04/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.8 pH: 6.1 🌡️ T: 21 °C H: 55% 🌊 3L 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D12/V08 - 27/04/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.7 pH: 6.0 🌡️ T: 21 °C H: 50% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D13/V09 - 28/04/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.7 pH: 6.0 🌡️ T: 21 °C H: 50% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D14/V10 - 29/04/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.7 pH: 6.0 🌡️ T: 21 °C H: 50% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video

Sherbets nearly ready now, another's 2 week plus a week flush should hopefully do it, gorilla glue is coming like dr grin spoon tiny popcorn buds (see pic) think it's cos I've had them on 12-12 not too sure

My buddy burned the Mephisto plant by accident with a wrong ratio mix. Other than that my 1st grow is going well, I think. The gorilla glue plants are finally stacking up some rock hard buds. Ive read this plant doesn't have dense bud. I beg to differ. These are friggin hard as golf balls. No week 10 entry. Mephisto plant getting the chop this week. Should get at least a quarter pound or more.

ADVANCED SEEDS WEEK 3 AUTO PURPLE DIESEL This week has been exciting the growth has been phenomenal. I would say it's probably been 4in of growth this week. The shade of grren shows no signs of issues. I did add a little GH Calimagic to the feed so will see how they take it. All in all Happy Growing

Recette du tco pour 20 litres. (Grammes : gr) 50gr biochar 250gr zéolite 3gr granulé Micro-Organisme IT45 10gr pollen d’abeilles 10gr levure de bière 3gr endomychorize 10gr consoude 20gr vers de farine 10gr cendre coque de ricin 12gr ortie microniser 15gr Kelp 10gr spiruline 10gr de cbd living soil 20ml de miel liquide 30ml de mélasse 20ml d’acide humiques et fluvic Mettre tous les ingrédients (sauf la mélasse ,l’acide h/f et le miel) dans un filtre 400micron, le placer dans un seau avec de l’eau (10litres). Rajoutez le miel et 10ml de mélasse Y mettre un micro bulleur alimenter sur une pompe à air et faire oxygéné le mélange pendant 24h. Rajout de 10ml de mélasse après 12h le début de la mise en route de la pompe. A la fin des 24h rajoutez le restant de mélasse et d’acide h/f, mettez y en plus 10litres d’eau au mélange. Reste plus qu’à arroser! j’y ai incorporé 7litre de mélange La veille j’ai préparé le pot à l’arrosage avec 500ml d’eau et 2gr de Bacillus IT35 Amyloliquefaciens X5 Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens : rhyzosphère, probiotiques. Aspersion et arrosage. Utilisable pour toutes cultures. La bactérie Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens se fixe dans la rhizosphère en se nourrissant des exsudats racinaires. En contrepartie, elle stimule la croissance racinaire en sécrétant des métabolites de croissance et solubilise le phosphore en sécrétant des phytases (enzymes). Effet probiotique consistant en l’utilisation de micro-organismes bénéfiques pour la nutrition et la santé des plantes. La spiruline, le plus riche et le plus complet des amendements organiques La Spiruline est une algue aquatique connue comme complément alimentaire, la Spiruline est aussi un amendement organique et écologique très complet. D'une grande qualité nutritive, elle apporte à vos plantes une quantité de nutriments, dont l'azote, phosphore, potassium, minéraux, acides aminés, vitamines, chlorophylle et protéine. Le charbon végétal actif est capable d’absorber jusqu’à cinq fois son poids propre en eau ainsi que les éléments nutritifs qui s’y trouvent. Il joue ainsi le rôle de catalyseur et d'amplificateur pour les fertilisants traditionnels, qu'ils soient d'origine organique ou minérale. Ce pourquoi il est idéal pour activer un sol et pour les thés de compost oxygénés. Le charbon végétal améliore la diffusion et la disponibilité des éléments nutritifs dans le sol et offre des conditions propices au développement des micro-organismes. Le Biochar peut être introduit dans une grande variété de sols. Il est particulièrement efficace dans les sols pauvres, difficiles et acides. Pour faire agir rapidement et efficacement sa capacité d’amendement, le charbon végétal est enrichi et biologiquement activé avec des micro-organismes. Le Biochar se comporte ainsi comme un structurateur et un activateur dans le but de valoriser les sols. Composition : • Charbon végétal actif 31%
• Matière organique 33%
• Matière sèche 75%
• C/N : 17
• PH : 7,2
• Azote (N) : 2,1 % dont 1,2 % azote organique
• Phosphore (P205) : 0,74%
• Potassium (K20) : 1,18%
• Calcium (Ca) : 6,8%
• Magnésium (MgO) : 0,65% Le pollen est l'ingrédient de base de la fabrication du miel par les abeilles. Riche en vitamines et minéraux, il est qualifié « d'aliment parfait », y compris pour les plantes ! Les zéolithes sont des roches cristallines, présentant des capacités d'adsorption particulièrement importantes vis à vis des polluants que l'on rencontre dans l'eau et dans certains liquides, ainsi que dans l'air et les gaz. Elles sont extrêmement poreuses comme les charbons activés et elles peuvent être chargées électriquement pour opérer comme des échangeurs d'ions. La zéolithe est un produit naturel qui respecte notre environnement. Utilisé dans le milieu industriel depuis de longues années déjà, ce minerai aux propriétés filtrantes particulières commence à se vulgariser dans le domaine de la piscine privée, de l'aquariophilie, des bassins d'agrément, de la récupération des eaux de pluie, ou encore de la culture des bonsaïs et autres plantations diverses par exemple... 4 points techniques majeurs : - Grâce à leur propriété hydrophile, les zéolithes peuvent adsorber l'eau jusqu'à 30% de leur poids total et sans aucune variation de volume : pas de gonflement en présence d'eau ni de craquement en cas de déshydratation comme certaines argiles. Les zéolithes sont d'ailleurs de puissants agents anti-mottant (anti-agglomérant). Cette propriété est très appréciée dans le cas des terrains de golf et autres aires de jeux. - Les zéolithes ne captent pas l'eau de façon irréversible, elles se comportent comme une réserve au voisinage des racines. Celles-ci peuvent capter l'eau en fonction de leur besoin. Les zéolithes permettent ainsi de réduire les besoins d'arrosage jusqu'à 35 %. - Une zéolithe se comporte comme une "Zone de Stockage" qui retient l'azote et les éléments minéraux nutritifs au voisinage des racines et les relâche lentement en fonction des besoins de la plante. Cela se traduit par une croissance harmonieuse mais rapide du végétal. - La capacité d'adsorption et l'énorme rapport surface/volume des zéolithes, vont permettre à la fois la rétention de la solution du sol et une bonne oxygénation au voisinage du système racinaire. Les zéolithes favorisent donc l'organisation biologique des sols en contribuant au développement de la micropopulation. L'apport en nutriments (N, P, K) est réduit de 20 à 25 %. Ces derniers, adsorbés par la zéolithe, sont beaucoup moins sensibles au lessivage et à l'évaporation. Composition minéralogique : * Chabasite 70 % * Phillipsite 2 % * Feldspath 5 % * Augite 3 % * Illite - Mica 2% Analyse atomique: * Sio2 52 % * AL2o3 17 % * CaO 5,7 % * K2O 6,1 % * MgO 2 %, * Na2O 0,6 % * Fe2O3 3,6 % Amendement calcaire, dolomie et gypse avec préparation microbienne à base de Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens IT45 et Saccharomyces cerevisiae LYCC6420 Formulation : micro granulés (1 – 1,6 mm) à base de rhizobactéries favorisant la croissance des plantes qui se multiplient et colonisent rapidement la zone des racines, et de levures Saccharomyces cerevisiae souche LYCC ayant un effet probiotique. Les PGPR produisent des enzymes qui solubilisent le phosphore à partir de complexes inorganiques et organiques dans le sol et stimulent la croissance des racines efficaces augmentant ainsi la zone d'interception des éléments nutritifs. Les levures LYCC permettent une occupation de la rhizosphère par une flore bénéfique. Composition :
• Matière sèche : 96,8%
• Matière organique : 91,5%
• N total : 6,6% dont N soluble dans l'eau 0,17%
• P total : 2%
• K total : 1,7% Micro-granulés : 
• Oxyde de calcium (CaO) total : 30%
• Oxyde de magnesium (MgO) total : 7%
• Anhydride sulfurique (SO3) : 13% La levure de bière est une matière vivante qui permet un meilleur fermentation pour les thés de compost oxygénés notamment conseillé pour accompagner les croissances ou apporter un gros coup de pousse pendant la floraisons. La levure stimule la vie des sols également à l'arrosage direct en apportant tout aussi bien que dans le TCO sa population l'espèce micro-bactérienne positive pour votre sols ainsi que des oligo-éléments et diverse vitamines. Composition : • 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), • 2,3% (P205) • 1,6% (K20) • 35% de MO • C/N : 8. PH : 8,4. Sous forme de poudre mouillable. Il contient des spores du champignon mycorhizien Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 avec des levures inactivées spécifiques. 2000 spores/gramme d’endomycorhize Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 et Saccharomyces Cerevisiae LYC6420 inactivée. Se connecte efficacement au système racinaire et forme un vaste réseau souterrain de filaments, qui agissent comme des extensions pour atteindre les nutriments et l’eau au-delà de la rhizosphère Composition : • Poudre contenant 2000 spores/g. d’endomycorhizes Rhizophagus irregularis La Consoude (Symphytum Officinale) est une plante présentant de nombreuses propriétés. Particulièrement riche en Potassium (K) organique, la consoude est une alliée idéale pour les périodes de floraison. La consoude a tout pour plaire : riche en vitamine B12, elle agira également comme stimulateur racinaire, mais aussi comme biostimulant cellulaire, grâce aux alcaloïdes, aux allantoïnes et jusqu'à 30% de protéine ! 100% déjection de vers de ténébrions.
Très riche en microorganismes, le guano de vers de farine est une matière directement composté par les vers. En effet, c'est bien la digestion de matières végétales par des larves, insectes ou autres arthropodes qui valident le processus de compostage, que ce soit en zone de production de cultures d'insectes, pour le compost maison ou la dégradation de litière forestière. Les bactéries et autres champignons obtenus grâce au système digestif de nos vers, permettent la dégradation accélérée des éléments nutritifs dans vos supersoils, et les symbioses permettant l'assimilation des éléments nutritifs. Cette bio-activation intense mettra dans vos sols, à la disposition de vos plantes, un panel tellement varié de nutriments frais qu'il nous est aujourd'hui technologiquement impossible de pouvoir tous les nommer et de les compter. Le guano de vers de farine fournit une grande polyvalence. Très équilibré, il s'utilise en entretien ou en apport ciblé seul ou en complément de d'autres amendements ou fertilisants organiques. Il agit comme un puissant activateur de sol et/ou de substrat. Cendre coque de ricin NPK 0,1-18,6-16,5. 0,1% (N-Azote), 18,6% (P205-Phosphore), 16,5% (K2O-Potasse), 11,7%(Ca0), 9,1 (Mg0) - Origine : Inde ACTION SOL • rend rapidement accessible au sol Phosphore, Potasse, Magnésium et Calcium. ACTION PLANTE • Apport aux stades agronomiques propices. • Produit riche en éléments fertilisants : combinaison NPK 35%. • Régularité de l’apport, milieu et fin de floraison. . Favorise la sénescence. Analyse chimique : • NPK 0,1-18,6-16,5 • N-Azote 0.1% • P205-Phosphore 18,6% • K2O-Potasse 16,5% • CaO-Calcium 11,7% • MgO-Magnésium 9,1% Ortie bio micronisée Stimule la vie du sol et la végétation. Composition : • 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), • 2,3% (P205) • 1,6% (K20) • 35% de MO • C/N : 8. PH : 8,4 KELP poudre
ascophyllum nodosum
- amendement sol Croissance et floraison - Meilleure germination - Meilleur développement racinaire Meilleure assimilation - Résistance aux stress osmotiques - Augmente la production de chlorophylle = plantes plus vertes = lumière mieux captée - Lutte contre le stress osmotique - Développement des Micro-Organismes dans le sol – Riche en vitamines, fer, iode, oligo-éléments, hormones de croissance auxines et cytokinines - Idéal en épandage et pour les thés de compost oxygénés. Important : notre Kelp est un goémon noir mais il n'est pas le varech bien moins fertile de la même famille qui est l'algue qui pullule et pollue la Bretagne, notre algue pousse uniquement à plus de 50 mètres de fond dans les grands courants froids au large de la Norvège.

Good start off to week 4. I did a 50 litre flush for pheno #1 and she bounced back real good. She is super happy and growth is really starting to pick up. A little more small in the tent now so I’m happy. I’ve also added bamboo sticks for both plants since I’m not using scrog so no trellis net to stop the plants from falling over once they start to pack on weight. Excited to see how the next couple are gonna go. Hopefully no more issues :)

Started flush on the taller plant, smaller one is about a week behind from pistil/trichomes Appearance

Looks good from my house lol any input would be greatly appreciated guys thanks in advance! I have a couple that I’m worried about will post more video soon sorry. Good luck buds!🌳☘️

Always a very pleasing on the eye strain to grow and was surprisingly easy to get a good yield with such a short veg and almost no training. Quality is pretty much 10/10

🌱 Week 2, Day 2 of veg! The plants are looking happy and healthy overall. The one with the snapped taproot is catching up slowly and seems to be growing fairly well. I’m currently feeding them 300 ppm at a pH of 5.8, and they’re getting about 300-350 PPFD of light. Excited to see how they progress!

🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽

I'm not a big fan of gelato strech, she's a tall girl, had to supercrop a few more tops.

Everything is going smoothly, the buds are getting bigger day by day All the girls are bug free, they are still looking green The G13 has the strongest smell followed by the Runtz and the GDP doesn’t smell like anything for now

7/21/17: They got their watering today. They drank as much as usual. It was MUCH easier feeding out of an 10 gallon container with a spigot. I kinda wish i got the 20 gallon one as that would mean only one mix, but the 10 is fine. I left everything sit after PHing to stabilize, and the runoff looked normal. Pix posted of potential calcium def on speed bud #2 and the kush. The kush looks somewhat different, but maybe I just caught it earlier. Used full Strength CalMagic with 1/2 nutes. I also PHed slightly higher in the 5.9 range to make sure the calcium was available. I didn't expect potential lockout at 5.7-5.8, but looking at the chart Calcium needs slightly higher PH so I hope this takes care of it. I tightened down the original LST in case watering the coco dislodged it, very little. I may start some leaf LST soon to provide the lower canopy more light. We shall see how they look at lights on and decide. Not sure how much further LST to do, because I believe we have our first sexing, as I noticed 2 fine hairs (i think) on NLxBB. Pic posted. Next feeding, any ladies showing their privates will get late stage veg feeding. I may even switch the runts to that feeding even if they haven't shown sex yet. I may even do full strength, as if anything, these plants are showing deficiencies with not even a trace of burn, and if I am going to get any volume out of the yield, I need to start pushing because they aren't that big right now. I have been told LST is not so good when the plants start to flower. I have also been told that autos will continue veg growth for about 2 weeks after sex before they actually start putting energy into flower, so if that is the case LST would still be appropriate during this late veg? Anyone with any experience on this matter? The smell is getting much stronger. During feeding this morning, i left all the tent doors open and went to preparing and other things. When I reentered the room, the smell was QUITE noticeable outside of the tent. I also got my new EC meter. it expresses EC in terms of like, 500, 1500, 2000, etc. It looks like PPM but it is not, it is a very detailed EC reading. So, in the previous example, it should be read as 0.5. 1.5.. and 2.0 EC. I had a TDS pen, but I got it free, unexpectedly, when I switched to a Pur water filter. I figured it as a novelty and they were just bragging. It ended up working reasonably well when I tested faucet vs distilled and nutes, so I have been using it, but since it was an unspecified PPM scale, it seemed wiser to be more accurate with no confusion EC. For the record, the TDS pen from Pur pretty much matched EXACTLY with my new fancy EC meter, which means the Pur water filter works as well as advertised and it took my 150-200 tap water to 0 every time. I certainly have been happy with it for my drinking water. 7/22/17 I am starting to think about more frequent feedings because man do they look perky today, after yesterday's feeding. I really want the advantage of massive root structure that wet/dry cycling provides, but these plants respond well to food. I continue to ponder. 7/23/17 : the good news, we are REALLY growing. I think I have the VPD managed. not under control, but managed. its going to cost me a fortune in AC bill, but I think I got it figured out 18 out of 24 hours of the day. the other 6 are completely out of my control and it is what it is. the bad news... the damage on the kush never did quite look like cal def (speed bud #2 DID look like cal def). i think i saw an aphid. aphid damage looks like what I saw. i crushed it instantly, then regretted crushing it before positively IDing it. either way, a trip to to the hardware store for a pressure sprayer cuz tonight before lights out, its a foliar spray of neem oil and sm-90, followed by a dusting of diatomaceous earth. gott a handle this before budding, and we already have at least 1 lady for sure showing her privates (NLxBB). So, far my 1st impressions for my 1st grow ever can be summed up by the phrase "I didn't know I would need to know how to juggle to get this job!" I'm actually having fun, but I am starting to get get cash fatigue throwing money at each new problem. Granted, I had the neem oil, diatomaceous earth, the DE duster, and the SM-90 already in reserve, but I had to go out AGAIN and grab a pressure sprayer and distilled water. it's not like its expensive, but it adds up. I know the payoff is coming. every time I open that tent and smell it, i can tell the payoff is coming. so much to learn, so many little obstacles to overcome. i am glad i enjoy it. i would hate to do this if i didnt actually enjoy it, like if it was a job. it fits neatly into a challange/recreation area, as far as growing. It's not too easy nor too hard. but it IS demanding. at what i make an hour, it is likely cheaper to buy it. but i truly am enjoying this. you can't buy that. this plant is teaching me a ton already. patience, being the major one i really am enjoying it. i wish i was better at it, but that will come with time... speaking of time, the time lapse is SICK the last 3 days. you are going to have to wait until the end of the week, but trust me, it is fascinating. i wish i could do that part better, more professional, but my focus is on the plant. the time lapse is just bonus and remember, it is VERY cheap to do time lapse. if you want to do it yourself, it will cost you $50 or so for the basics. you gotta do some computer work, but its not hard. i can help. it may be minor, but its something i can contribute. i am enthralled with the footage. i am SO glad i did that. plus i can monitor temps and humidity real time anywhere from my phone with proper port forwarding. since there has been 0% burn, i am VERY tempted to do a full early veg feeding (700pm) before i transition to 1/2 late veg feeding until flower. gonna sit on this, but i likely will push them just to see if they can be pushed, and if so, which strains... again, enjoyment =D a little more LST, main stem hopefully it will help with the bud cuz its gonna fuck with the time lapse 7/24/17 About a half hour before lights out I sprayed them with 1 part sm-90, 5 parts water, and 1 ml per gallon of need oil. This morning Speed Bub #1 had a brown mark on it. I am hoping these marks aren't pests at all, but light burns from draps of water. Only time will tell. I will spray them again tonight or tomorrow, but this time 10 minutes or so before lights out just in case. I have not dusted with diatomaceous earth yet, as I am not convinced I have an infestation yet. Does the brown spot in the new pics look like anything specific to anyone else? 7/26/17 Not much to report. They are growing steady. Still, most not sexed. I am starting to think the stall at the beginning wasn't stunting, but a root network taking hold. I am also starting to think this time limit of autoflowers lacks the urgency that some people speculate. For instance, the speed buds should have started flowering in the 3rd week. We are almost done with week 4 and they aren't even sexed yet, but growing fine, if not slightly small for this age. I suspect autoflowers DO have an internal timer, but that timer may not be as strict as some think; the timer may take into account environment and adjust itself. I don't know, but I haven't seen anyone using 7 gallon pots for autos, so this early stall and late sexing may be unique to this situation, and may support my theory that the week they apparently did not growing on the time lapse, that there were roots going nuts. That would spell out environmental factors, no? I was going to feed them today, but the bags are still so heavy and the tops arent even all dry yet, so I am going to wait a day and go into late veg feeding at lights up tomorrow. Not sure, but I think it's time, wet/dry cycle or not. I will of course, monitor them but they look beautiful. One mistake I made for sure that I won't make again is not fiilling the pots to the top. Not only did I create unnecessary shadows, but the leaves are now pushing and folding on the sides and I have to manually make sure they are straight and getting sufficient light. Practice makes perfect, I will do better next time. A few of the plants are getting some more spots. In my opinion, it is either damage from the neem treatment, or def because they are hungry. Still no evidence of bugs. I was looking for the plants to tell me they were hungry because they look so healthy and the bag is heavy, so I will take this as their message for sure and feed them at lights up tomorrow. Either way, the plants still look great and are growing like weeds. I did wait long to feed them, so this is expected. Later in the day tomorrow, when they perk after watering, we will do their portraits for the week and get this weeks time lapse uploaded. Yeah, I am pretty sure it's calcium. It's a bit worse than I thought, so will for sure get on lights on feeding. I either need to increase calcium in the feed, or feed them more often. I guess it's time to move to more aggressive feeding, at least that is what they seem to be telling me. Normal 1/2 strength feed given more often. 7/27/17 They were fed today, late veg nutes. Will provide details in week 5. I was going to take photos today, but spent almost 8 hours in the ER to be told that I was as healthy as a teeny bopper. That compliment is going to hurt a whole lot when that bill comes in. Of note, I have raised the LEDs 2 nights in a row and the smell is getting much thicker. Anyway, I am exhausted, and have to work tomorrow, so I will take their portraits a little late tomorrow and get the time lapse up before opening week 5.

This week, I started to notice deficiencies. Struggled to specifically diagnose them and I'm still not entirely sure I have... but I believe they're calcium deficiencies from watering with Reverse Osmosis H20. So, I brewed a compost tea for veg plants, and added some extra calmag. They seem to be responding well. Also started low stress training this week.

SCROG out under trellis

May, 8th Plant is still stretching, And Building some woonderful Flowers too A lot of WWork and Energy for the Plant I feed her in every Watering because shee is geting alittle Pale/ limy And I added some Calmag too, to help with Photosynthesis because she has still a big need In Nitrogen , added some flowering Nutrients, too