hey guys sorry for the absence but in this period I have had a lot to do with my work and I have not been able to bring a good detailed diary, but finally now the holidays will start and I will be able to dedicate myself 110% to a new crop and new ones diaries. having said that, I think I will leave him a week at the most and finally reap the benefits 💚🌳💚🌳maybe my fault the RQS slow release nutrients did not perform as much as the ADVs in my tent, you can see it from the video of 27/07/22 where you can see that 2 out of 6 plants are visually leaner and less compact to the touch , I wanted to try on the same varieties in order to have feedback. I think it could also be caused by the crowding of the tent but with the ADV I have not encountered any problems. I will definitely try them again, giving them much more attention.

Fastbuds with the heavy weight autos! Holy crap I thought she was a photoperiod

È sbucata ...inizio del suo ciclo.. Domani inizierò la conta dei giorni e settimane....forza bella mia .......sebra che si e bloccata....... Sta iniziando a crescere ma molto lentamente..deve essersi stressata dall'inizio

Esta es la última semana de crecimiento que le doy a las pequeñas, el último día antes de hacer el cambio de horas de luz le hago una pequeña poda de bajos ya que eso le dará más aire a la zona baja y más fuerza a la parte superior de nuestras plantas. En esta semana terminamos con una Ec de 1.6 y un ph de 5.8. Están creciendo muy rápido y con fuerza en los tallos. Los tamaños de las pequeñas son: las red hot cookies 24 y 34 cm, las tropicanas 27 y 37 cm y la purple puch og 24 cm.

What's in the soil? What's not in the soil would be an easier question to answer. 16-18 DLI @ the minute. +++ as she grows. Probably not recommended, but to get to where it needs to be, I need to start now. Vegetative @1400ppm 0.8–1.2 kPa 80–86°F (26.7–30°C) 65–75%, LST Day 10, Fim'd Day 11 CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity): This is a measure of a soil's ability to hold and exchange positively charged nutrients, like calcium, magnesium, and potassium. Soils with high CEC (more clay and organic matter) have more negative charges that attract and hold these essential nutrients, preventing them from leaching away. Biochar is highly efficient at increasing cation exchange capacity (CEC) compared to many other amendments. Biochar's high CEC potential stems from its negatively charged functional groups, and studies show it can increase CEC by over 90%. Amendments like compost also increase CEC but are often more prone to rapid biodegradation, which can make biochar's effect more long-lasting. biochar acts as a long-lasting Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) enhancer because its porous, carbon-rich structure provides sites for nutrients to bind to, effectively improving nutrient retention in soil without relying on the short-term benefits of fresh organic matter like compost or manure. Biochar's stability means these benefits last much longer than those from traditional organic amendments, making it a sustainable way to improve soil fertility, water retention, and structure over time. Needs to be charged first, similar to Coco, or it will immobilize cations, but at a much higher ratio. a high cation exchange capacity (CEC) results in a high buffer protection, meaning the soil can better resist changes in pH and nutrient availability. This is because a high CEC soil has more negatively charged sites to hold onto essential positively charged nutrients, like calcium and magnesium, and to buffer against acid ions, such as hydrogen. EC (Electrical Conductivity): This measures the amount of soluble salts in the soil. High EC levels indicate a high concentration of dissolved salts and can be a sign of potential salinity issues that can harm plants. The stored cations associated with a medium's cation exchange capacity (CEC) do not directly contribute to a real-time electrical conductivity (EC) reading. A real-time EC measurement reflects only the concentration of free, dissolved salt ions in the water solution within the medium. 98% of a plants nutrients comes directly from the water solution. 2% come directly from soil particles. CEC is a mediums storage capacity for cations. These stored cations do not contribute to a mediums EC directly. Electrical Conductivity (EC) does not measure salt ions adsorbed (stored) onto a Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) site, as EC measures the conductivity of ions in solution within a soil or water sample, not those held on soil particles. A medium releases stored cations to water by ion exchange, where a new, more desirable ion from the water solution temporarily displaces the stored cation from the medium's surface, a process also seen in plants absorbing nutrients via mass flow. For example, in water softeners, sodium ions are released from resin beads to bond with the medium's surface, displacing calcium and magnesium ions which then enter the water. This same principle applies when plants take up nutrients from the soil solution: the cations are released from the soil particles into the water in response to a concentration equilibrium, and then moved to the root surface via mass flow. An example of ion exchange within the context of Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) is a soil particle with a negative charge attracting and holding positively charged nutrient ions, like potassium (K+) or calcium (Ca2+), and then exchanging them for other positive ions present in the soil solution. For instance, a negatively charged clay particle in soil can hold a K+ ion and later release it to a plant's roots when a different cation, such as calcium (Ca2+), is abundant and replaces the potassium. This process of holding and swapping positively charged ions is fundamental to soil fertility, as it provides plants with essential nutrients. Negative charges on soil particles: Soil particles, particularly clay and organic matter, have negatively charged surfaces due to their chemical structure. Attraction of cations: These negative charges attract and hold positively charged ions, or cations, such as: Potassium (K+) Calcium (Ca2+) Magnesium (Mg2+) Sodium (Na+) Ammonium (NH4+) Plant roots excrete hydrogen ions (H+) through the action of proton pumps embedded in the root cell membranes, which use ATP (energy) to actively transport H+ ions from inside the root cell into the surrounding soil. This process lowers the pH of the soil, which helps to make certain mineral nutrients, such as iron, more available for uptake by the plant. Mechanism of H+ Excretion Proton Pumps: Root cells contain specialized proteins called proton pumps (H+-ATPases) in their cell membranes. Active Transport: These proton pumps use energy from ATP to actively move H+ ions from the cytoplasm of the root cell into the soil, against their concentration gradient. Role in pH Regulation: This active excretion of H+ is a major way plants regulate their internal cytoplasmic pH. Nutrient Availability: The resulting decrease in soil pH makes certain essential mineral nutrients, like iron, more soluble and available for the root cells to absorb. Ion Exchange: The H+ ions also displace positively charged mineral cations from the soil particles, making them available for uptake. Iron Uptake: In response to iron deficiency stress, plants enhance H+ excretion and reductant release to lower the pH and convert Fe3+ to the more available form Fe2+. The altered pH can influence the activity and composition of beneficial microbes in the soil. The H+ gradient created by the proton pumps can also be used for other vital cell functions, such as ATP synthesis and the transport of other solutes. The hydrogen ions (H+) excreted during photosynthesis come from the splitting of water molecules. This splitting, called photolysis, occurs in Photosystem II to replace the electrons used in the light-dependent reactions. The released hydrogen ions are then pumped into the thylakoid lumen, creating a proton gradient that drives ATP synthesis. Plants release hydrogen ions (H+) from their roots into the soil, a process that occurs in conjunction with nutrient uptake and photosynthesis. These H+ ions compete with mineral cations for the negatively charged sites on soil particles, a phenomenon known as cation exchange. By displacing beneficial mineral cations, the excreted H+ ions make these nutrients available for the plant to absorb, which can also lower the soil pH and indirectly affect its Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) by altering the pool of exchangeable cations in the soil solution. Plants use proton (H+) exudation, driven by the H+-ATPase enzyme, to release H+ ions into the soil, creating a more acidic rhizosphere, which enhances nutrient availability and influences nutrient cycling processes. This acidification mobilizes insoluble nutrients like iron (Fe) by breaking them down, while also facilitating the activity of beneficial microbes involved in the nutrient cycle. Therefore, H+ exudation is a critical plant strategy for nutrient acquisition and management, allowing plants to improve their access to essential elements from the soil. A lack of water splitting during photosynthesis can affect iron uptake because the resulting energy imbalance disrupts the plant's ability to produce ATP and NADPH, which are crucial for overall photosynthetic energy conversion and can trigger a deficiency in iron homeostasis pathways. While photosynthesis uses hydrogen ions produced from water splitting for the Calvin cycle, not to create a hydrogen gas deficiency, the overall process is sensitive to nutrient availability, and iron is essential for chloroplast function. In photosynthesis, water is split to provide electrons to replace those lost in Photosystem II, which is triggered by light absorption. These electrons then travel along a transport chain to generate ATP (energy currency) and NADPH (reducing power). Carbon Fixation: The generated ATP and NADPH are then used to convert carbon dioxide into carbohydrates in the Calvin cycle. Impaired water splitting (via water in or out) breaks the chain reaction of photosynthesis. This leads to an imbalance in ATP and NADPH levels, which disrupts the Calvin cycle and overall energy production in the plant. Plants require a sufficient supply of essential mineral elements like iron for photosynthesis. Iron is vital for chlorophyll formation and plays a crucial role in electron transport within the chloroplasts. The complex relationship between nutrient status and photosynthesis is evident when iron deficiency can be reverted by depleting other micronutrients like manganese. This highlights how nutrient homeostasis influences photosynthetic function. A lack of adequate energy and reducing power from photosynthesis, which is directly linked to water splitting, can trigger complex adaptive responses in the plant's iron uptake and distribution systems. Plants possess receptors called transceptors that can directly detect specific nutrient concentrations in the soil or within the plant's tissues. These receptors trigger signaling pathways, sometimes involving calcium influx or changes in protein complex activity, that then influence nutrient uptake by the roots. Plants use this information to make long-term adjustments, such as Increasing root biomass to explore more soil for nutrients. Modifying metabolic pathways to make better use of available resources. Adjusting the rate of nutrient transport into the roots. That's why I keep a high EC. Abundance resonates Abundance.

La planta ha tenido un muy buen desarrollo esta última semana, ha crecido de manera favorable ya solo es esperar a tener el espacio para su floración así que la dejaremos otra semana en vegetativo, aparte de eso no hay mucho que decir las plagas están a raya y se ve en perfectas condiciones desde sus hojas hasta los tallos

Good

She is smelling so strong and stacking nicely, the buds are dense and super shiny and covered in tricombs. So far there’s more cloudy than clear but no Amber yet will keep y’all updated :)

Mais 2 semanas para a colheita,ela está gorda e cheirosa,vou começar a fazer o flush ,Super Moby Dick --LATITUD SUR SEEDS.

D64/F12 - 11.18 - Been a really incredible week for these ladies. All of them are thriving with lovely prebuds <3 D67/F15 - 11.21 - Lovely progress. Even the least beautiful plant in the garden is reaching above the peony rings :) D70/F18 - 11.24 - Pretty aggressive defoliation on these ladies today. They responded great last round, so I expect to see the start to put a lot of weight on soon. The black sugars (second column of three from the left) we way more leafy than the fast white widows

All week I have been doing root flushing

Linda genetica de royal queen seed más para climas controlados

I love this strain definitely more of the ak coming out in her LOVE IT Remember nerds It’s 420 somewhere

👍👍👍👍👍

I feel like this is week 7 of flowering not week 6 I think I may of missed a week at the beginning of flowering. I have been feeding her a 25l mixture of feed a week. 3.3 ltr a day. It has been taking this really well, been doing for 2 weeks now. Going to start my flush on 20/10 and also planing to drill her on the same day. Will take photos. She is really starting to fatten up now, can see them buds get bigger and bigger everyday!!! Still keeping the feeds up trying to get as much as I can in her!!!! Still keep the comments coming in!!!! Is she amazing or what!? Start the flush when!? When to harvested her!? Would love to know what everyone thinks!!!

Hi gromies Ive missed updates over the last few weeks phone problem! But the girls are going great!👍 I'm at the end of week 5 of flower. I'm pretty happy with it for my first scrog grow, could have been better, was in rush to get something into flower, started flowering as soon as they started to grow through net. Should have veged them & trained through the net longer to completely fill net. Pheno 3 was half the size of the other 2. Have started some clones from flowering cuttings, Monster cropping , it works great for increasing yield & saves me from having to keep motherplants. Amazing progress, the roots you see were developed in 8 days! Will start to veg them in the 2nd tent & start the perpetual harvest process. Have continued to grow this strain as I don't have any other seeds at the moment, though it is a nice strain! Definitely time for a change, hint, hint original sensible seeds! Or any other seed companies 👍

Hello! For this setup i´ll use Optic 1 XL in a 80cmx80cm tent, (indoor grow), with temperature, humidity and air flow controled... Have heard great things about Real Cookies and now it´s time to grow it! Have successfully germinated 2 seeds out of 2 using the easy start kit from RQS, 100 % rate! (made a DIY box and used the wireless router to keep it warm) Notice this seeds have sprouted in less than 48h it´s a personal record to me! I´m using Janeco light mix and prepared the soil with the the easy boost organic nutrition before reporting the seedlings... It´s time to turn on the lights and let the mother nature do the magic!

8/19 Rained again last night. No damage but medium is drenched. The 9lb kush I've been struggling with seems to be improving. I spent a lot of time on her yesterday and at least an hour this morning defoliating and pruning her. New growth and flowers look promising. I'm cautiously optimistic. I defoliated what needed it. I needcto qpplyvorganocide again. I can see random signs of septoria leaf spot. I really have been off my fame lately. I'm back on it now. This week the garden will be rearranged and I'll pull that big GDP back and better support the blueberry for flower. That NYCSA is a beast. It's resilient as all hell and just continues getting bigger and fuller. Despite pr9blems in the garden this girl seems absolutely fine. At least I don't have that defeated feeling anymore. I've got flowers on a few different plants. I'll try to get a couple pictures. I may take rapacaps advice and add a cheap plastic roof for later flower. I'm not sure if the explosive flower growth is due to the liquid kool bloom but I think I'm going to switch back to tiger bloom as it works better with the other nutes. I'll jeep this updated but I've got work to do. 8/20 Well it Rained again last night. This is getting discouraging. Now my other 9lb kush has the bottom branch all droopy like there's a borer or something. Realistically with the temp swings and the weather I think it's a firm of root rot or pythiym damage which isn't good. I posted pictures of the stalks and would be grateful if anyone has any advice. I'm go8ng back down to look again for a borer hole but i didn't see one. What it looks like to me is that the petroleum jelly I put on the stalks (to battle ear wigs) seems to keep them moist or something inviting mold or fungus. I'm kind of at a loss. I don't really know where to go from here. I don't know if I should just replant the severely damaged plant away from the rest of the grow, bag it and get rid of it or leave it be and hope for the best. I certainly don't want anything spreading. I'm getting tigerbloom today as my plants still need to eat and I'm nervous about the liquid kool bloom. It's probably fine but still. I'll update after I put in more work and research more today. Any advice helps. UPDATE: No borer holes. The stalk looks fucking horrible. It's supposed to rain today. I'm going to give it one more day then I'll amputate that branch and get rid of the other plant if I don't see an improvement. Perhaps I'll plant it in the ground. Don't really know what to do. Family bar b que today so my options are limited. 8/21 FED TWO GALLONS TO THE GARDEN. ONLY USED .5TSP/GAL OF LIQUID KOOL BLOOM. Did not feed dieing plant. Back to super hot weather 80° at 9am. Did a lot of research last night. I also went to several commercial growers and asked advice. What I came up with was a fusarium infection of pythiym infection (Crown rot). I looked at all my stalks and they all have bark and are darker where I applied the petroleum jelly. I'm also NEVER using DE again. It fucking ridiculous amounts of water. Everyone swears by it bit it's not going in my garden again. Since use I can just watch water sit right on the GD soil. I tried to get some examples of what I'm talking about with the stems. I amputated that lowest bottom branch I trained (which was huge). I didn't have time to dispose of the other plant before my wife's doctor's appointment. I'll update when I go back over. I'm sure this won't help and may hurt but I used Bee Safe 3 in 1 on the wound and around the stalks of the plants I saw discoloration on. I didn't touch the NYCSA even though I see some discoloration. I may just be seeing things. That plant I'd super healthy and I don't want to risk losing it. It doesn't seem to have the stem rot like the others. At least I'm not the only one having problems. I hears some pretty bad stories. Still. I'm heart broken. I'll keep this updated after I go back over. FUCK. I MAY just go back to indoor. UPDATE: Got back from the appointment and the rest of the plant was all droopy just like the other 9lb kush (and the branch amputated). I wondered about that because other branches looked worse. I got the totally dead 9lb kush out and found some root rot. AFTER wheeling the bag out I found earwigs and other insects where the bag had been. Awesome. I used h202 to try to wipe down anything that looked Fingal in the stem. It sucks because it seems like that liquid kool bloom pushed them over the edge into flower. Cotton balls where there was nothing. So that's both my 9lb kush plants and the largest plant of the year the GDP that have all bit the dust. If you grow cannabis you know how I'm feeling. I KEEP TRY8NGVTO UPLOAD THE MINUTE VIDEO I TOOK BUT I CLICK ON SOMETHING ELSE AND IT DISAPPEARS. WIFI SLOW. HAVE TO WAIT FOR 5G 8/22 What do I say? Fusarium? Pythium? Stem rot? I'm going to have to get a tent to do some indoor to get the medicine I need for me and my wife. I took the last 9lb kush out and disposed of it. Well it's still in the bag. I'm hoping maybe it might come out of it (beyond hope and far away from the others (but I'm going to toss it today). This blows so hard. Flowers are just starting to develop. I like the liquid kool bloom. It seems to make flowers explode when there was none before. At least on the plants I have left. Actually even the dieing ones started flowering. I'm really concerned considering that one plant (at least) has septoria and every plant has that petroleum jelly on it. Cautio to people that use that. It seems thats where the rot started or is. In spots I spread the petroleum jelly. Anyway my NYCSA has the smallest amount of "funky looking stuff on the stem" so I'm hoping it will make it. Cotton balls starting to appear. If I lose the whole fucking crop I'm gonna go ape shit. UPDATE: Spoke with a few others and did more research. I removed my braces on the bottom of all the plants. It looks like the pjelly and the brace allowed for some type of contaminate. Other growers think I'm being too bleak. They think things will turn out okay. They are more knowledgeable about cannabis than me but I'm with these particular plants everyday. They're probably right and my anxiety is just getting g to me. It's scary seeing a healthy plant completely die in such a short time. After removing the other 9lb kush I could easily see extreme rootbound roots still too the size of the 1 gallon they came in. The bag was PACKED FULL of tight roots so they definitely made it down. The plant however just fell over when I pushed it. I had roughed it up a big before. Anyway I'm praying to the cannabis gods to not take what I have left. 8/23 Fucking pouring again. This sucks. I've gotten loads of advice and made another friend on here. I forgot my phone so I couldn't take pictures this morning. My spirits are up a little seeing that others are at least attempting to help. I'm headed to the grow shop after a night of research to grab supplies to battle this. I'll update later. EDIT: I picked up plant doctor at the grow shop. It was 50% off and I couldn't find anything with trichodermia. However, I've heard good things about this plant doctor. It's systemic and can be used as a root drench and a foliar spray. BIGGEST selling point for me is that it SPECIFICALLY lists fusarium, grey mold. Pythiym crown rot, black mold and all kinds of other shit. The thing that sucks is it's raining and it's not supposed to stop for a few days. That's going to make application more difficult. Oh well. I think I may do a root drench on the one plant that has a wilted bottom branch. I'll keep this updated. Thank you everyone who reached out. Especially growing grannies and my commercial buddy who is always here for me. However he has no experience with this so I'm kinda on my own here. EDIT: I couldn't find trichodermia and I don't have time to wait around and order. I found plant doctor which literally lists it treats all the possibly pathogens my issue could be. Even has a section for medical Marijuana. I did a root drench on the plant up front in the middle AND I did a foliar spray. Might as well get the septoria too. It's systemic but it gets in faster through the leaves I guess. It started sprinkling and I want to test this stuff out before I go ham with it. I did give some to the to other plants bit left my best AND THE TWO SMALLER ONES alone for now. I'm not seeing those issues on the NYCSA and I don't want to risk damaging it. I chose tge root drench as it's raining and the instructions for fusarium WAS a root drench. Thank you all for your help. I will close out tge question once I know it's figured out. Wish me luck. DID A SHORT VIDEO BUT WIFI IS SUPER SLOW SO I NEED TO WAIT TO UPLOAD IT. Went back over. Finished foliar spraying the other two and left the NYCSA and two Littles alone. Hopefully this works. I did I short video. Who knows if it uploads. UPDATE: Went back over and finished foliar spraying. Took a bunch of pictures and did a video but it didn't upload. I'm hoping this will do it. Plants actually look good. And they're flowering nicely! It's too bad I had to do a foliar bug this us supposed to combat PM and septoria as well. 8/24 It Rained last night but hasn't Rained today yet. It's supposed to and uts overcast. I'm really considering putting a roof on my grow (like rapacap suggested) for flower to decrease mold chances. Plants looked happy. I saw no negative effects from the Plant Doctor. I even sprayed a branch of the NYCSA and the stem and a little around tge roots. I finally feel like I can take a breath. I've been working so hard and worrying about losing g everything. I may have been able to save that 9lbkush but I don't think bit was worth taking the chance. The sun is peaking out now. My buddy at the grow shop called and set a side general hydroponics armor si 0-0-4 silica supplement cause it was 90% off. I pad like a buck sixty lol. I'll incorporate that next feed or water. Whatever comes first but it will be good to get it in the regimen. I was worried plant doctor might hurt but the girls seemed to kike it and I went ham on the worst plant. I mixed according to medical Marijuana guidelines on the label (Theres another label on the internet, it's not on this one, it's at the very bottom and just recommdations from commercial growers. I hope this stuff works. Things look better already though. That liquid kool bloom is the bees knees. That's making flowers pop up like crazy! I think I'll stick with it. I was going to use beastie bloom and cha ching later on (and still might) but I hate the lockout bullshit. I've done a bunch of videos but most don't get uploaded as i forget to upload when I leave and wifi is slow here. Anyway at least I've got a few good ones left and pleating the words of my commercial poll buddy, "barring anything catastrophic you should be fine. I know your anxiety gets the better of you sometimes." Couldn't be a truer statement. I'm still getting a tent and doing indoor though. I'm going to need to. 8/25 Did some slight defoliation. I think today I'm going to reorganize my grow space. Things are looking better though. Plants look healthier. Flower is on and they are going to beat hell. I'm glad I took a cutting from NY 9lb kush. I also took one from the NYCSA. THose are tge little ones. The 9lb kush is flowering pretty good. Too bad it's just on a 3 gal. The NYCSA us in a 10 gal grow bag though and is doing amazing. I still see septoria on the leaves. I'm sure I'll need to reapply plant doctor but thus far I'm impressed. Things LOOK better. I don't even remember the last time I watered. It Rained last night. Looks sunny today. I'm going to feed tomorrow. I want the soil to dry out though. We usually don't get consistent rain like this. It's a first for me. I'll update later if I get stuff done.still wondering if I should amputate that wilted branch or give it a bit. It's still attached right now. I'll get some sealant and do some more research.

8/9/25 took clones for the next generation. Will be uploading a video on to youtube showing my whole process with honey and vermiculite. Starting to clean up the under carriage and getting her prepped for flower. I let her beg for too long and she's showing signs of being too big for her pot