Transplanted 6 girls into the hydro, 3 Bubble Gum Kush and 3 Critical +2.0. The critical is a beast, can’t wait to see how it grows! Dealt with some hot water issues but think I’ve got it together.

6° Semana- Aeroponía - Están muy bellas las raíces, están 100% sanas. Se realiza poda apical al quinto nodo,una pequeña defoliación y luego se aplica LST a las más grandes, muy contento con el crecimiento actual. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6th Week- Aeroponics - The roots are very beautiful, they are 100% healthy. The fifth node is topped, and a little defoliation and then LST is applied to the largest ones, very happy with the current growth.

The not so little now really is growing well😊. Had to get it in another box to keep good temperature. I keep doing some defoliation Time to Time.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

We have had another very hot week. All my girls are suffering and display some ugly looking leaves. But so far the buds are doing well. Both plants look good but I prefer the sturcture of the mainlined plant. It gets cleaner and longer colas,

Saudações Iniciar diários fast buds Encomenda chegou dentro do prazo, muito discreto. Dia 17/11/2023 Selecção de 5 sepas, colocando em papel toalha Dia 18/11/2023 Colocando em vaso final, com um cúpula para manter umidade alta. Agora é esperar que corra tudo bem Não se esqueça de ver novidades em https://2fast4buds.com

5/12/2024 happy Mother’s Day to all the ladies and buds 5/15 super frosty sugar leaves. I can visually see them standing, that they are so tall 5/18 end of week 4

Hey everyone 🤗. Another great week goes by in which both phenotypes have developed super 😀. I think I will give you 1-2 weeks before they come into bloom . Until then, I wish you a lot Spas with the update, stay healthy and let it grow 🍀 You can buy this Strain at : https://sweetseeds.es/de/sweet-skunk-f1-fast-version/ Type: Sweet Skunk F1 Fast Version ☝️🏼 Genetics: Sweet Skunk Auto (SWS34) X Early Skunk 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

to view this lamp or any other marshydro product go to: https://instagram.com/marshydro_aliexpress?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

I left the honey cream outside in a dark place, which turned out to be a big mistake. None of the branches that I trimmed and dried directly had bud rot but around 6 buds that were left outside had bud rot. The mass of this plant really put me to the test took a whole lot of time to trim every branch. In fact I still have a bunch of branches that I'm too lazy to trim right now so I'll do a dry trim someday. Although this grow had some problems it was an absolute pleasure to watch these plants grow and to now having this harvest is absolutely beautiful, a perfect strain mix. I won't ever let them grow this big again since I really don't need that much weed and I think I'll going to have more fun with some extreme LST or something like it and I guess I'll look for strains that will flower earlier and not for ones that flower fast.

This is about the start of her 4th week or so. I can't remember the day she popped out of the soil. I topped about a week ago and she is doing awesome.

Hi guys So here is my 10 plant auto run from fastbuds 420 genetics. I will update weekly on this one. So I'm going to be using 3 gal fabric pots filled with biobizz lightmix soil. I will be putting into solo cups after the 18 hour soak then transferring them to there for ever pots. Im looking forward to this run and trying to get 20oz + dry and cured out of this 4x4 tent grow. Part 2 of germination in operation in solo cups with root juice. Hopefully 10 out of 10 pop.

Day 90 / FL 15, Gave the GDP a heavy defoliation to help open up bud sites. Plant still has not stretched too much since flower flip. I either stressed her out to much or this is the characteristics of this pheno. Regardless I should have some nice bud in the end, just not a good yeild. Day 93 / FL 18, Plant has recovered very nice after heavy defoliation. Plant is still very short. Day 96 / FL 21, Added a 3/4 inch layer of living soil to add a little bit of extra nutrients. Waiting until week 5 of flower to add Gaia Green dry amendments to take me to the end.

🍼Greenhouse Feeding BioGrow & BioBloom ⛺️MARSHYDRO The ⛺️ has a small door 🚪 on the sides which is useful for mid section groom room work. 🤩 ☀️ by VIPARSPECTRA (models: P2000 & XS 2000) 🌱 DUTCH HEADSHOP SEEDS: www.dutch-headshop.eu www.dutch-headshop.nl ONE STOP SHOP . 100% germination success on first try! with HUGE seed selection! . Very friendly customer service . Best bio-seed packaging . Sells other products @ best prices: . Nutrients . Vaporizers . Smoking accessories (grinders, cones) . CBD Tinctures . Resin Extracts . Boveda humidity packs . Ziplock bags . Other health supplements such as: . Lion’s Mane Organic Capsules . Hemp Seed coffee

Beginning of week 6 and all is still good. She’s got some nice big frosty nugs on her all over the place. She stretched out more then my other 3 obi-wan so her buds are more spread out then the other indica dominated plants around her. Hers are the frostiest nugs of them all though, even got a bunch of her guard leaves covered in tricombs. Loving this girl so far in this setup, I’ve done her before in a smaller tent under cheap Led lights in DWC and got good results, but this girl is knocking it outside the park so far for ease of growing it and what she produces no matter how you grow her. Lol Cheers 💨

Hey now, hope everyone is having a great week! The Glueberry OG keeps chugging along....She is still feeding on cal mag, maxi bloom, and liquid koolbloom...and absolutely STACKING! Lol...loving this light so far...but will have a much better review upon a squeeze test in the press.... I currently have the Spectrum X running at 100% power and have upped the time on the UV/IR bars to 90 minutes just prior to lights off. I am super happy with this light so far, she puts out impressive PAR, and runs fairly cool. The only thing I would change is to have individual timers for the different spectrums. I did hear they sell a timer that does this but it does cost $300. Not much to do this week other than keep the reservoir full and in the correct PH range. The tomatoes outside are absolutely loving the runoff from these autos, as that is all they have had to drink since they were about 3 weeks old. Thanks for stopping by, Stay Safe and Blaze On!!! 💪 Website: https://medicgrow.com/ https://growdiaries.com/grower/medicgrowled

Day 64 (First Grow, Flowering Phase): Hey everyone! We’re on day 64, and the flowering phase is in full swing. The buds are forming beautifully, and the plants have grown 5-10 cm above the SCROG net, creating a lush canopy. The humidity is steady at around 50% or lower, which is ideal for this stage. To recap, we've been maintaining an even canopy with the SCROG net and our Timor shield mantis continues to keep pests at bay naturally. Our plants are thriving, thanks to the even light distribution and careful humidity control. We're considering installing a second fan in a few weeks to improve airflow and potentially adding a second SCROG net to support the plants as they continue to stretch during flowering. This should help stabilize the plants and ensure they get the support they need as the buds get heavier. Any tips or advice for the next steps? Let us know in the comments!

Essa semana estamos no meio da floração, vou aumentar a rega um pouco pois as plantas estão grandes e a temperatura está mais alta . Plantas estam bem resinadas .