🍋🍒 Lemon Cherry Gelato Week 8 From Seed Week 4 Flower (12/12) The Room Is in Full Reproductive Mode ⸻ 🔁 Quick Recap — The Road to Week 4 12/12 from seed. No extended veg. Early structure built under restraint. Defoliation last week to open airflow and light pathways. And now? We are no longer initiating flowers. We are building them. Week 4 is the bridge between stretch and stacking. This is where architecture becomes yield. ⸻ 🌿 Structural Expression — Why These Girls Stand Out Lemon Cherry Gelato isn’t the tallest in the room. But structurally? Among the most dominant. Wide lateral branching. Thick stems. Uniform top distribution. Deep, lush green coloration. Post-defoliation response was extremely strong. No stall. No sulking. No nutrient imbalance signals. You wouldn’t guess they were stripped last week. That tells us: • Root system is robust. • Environmental stability is real. • Carbohydrate reserves were sufficient. • Stress recovery window was optimal. Week 4 recovery like this sets up week 6 density. ⸻ 🌡️ Environmental Analysis — High Energy, High Demand Current conditions: • Canopy temp: ~28°C • RH: ~70% • CO₂: 1000+ ppm • PPFD: 800 → 1300 µmol/m²/s This is a metabolically aggressive room. At ~28°C with enriched CO₂, plants can process higher photon density efficiently. But week 4 flower adds a new layer: Bud mass is forming. Transpiration shifts. Microclimate inside the canopy thickens. 70% RH at this density is not ideal long-term. Not panic territory — but now it’s a countdown. Over the next 7–10 days, gradual RH reduction will be necessary as stacking intensifies. Airflow and undercanopy lighting are currently preventing stagnation — and it shows. No mold indicators. No soft tissue collapse. No stress clawing. But vigilance increases from here. ⸻ 💡 Lighting Strategy — Controlled Intensity Main lighting intensity has increased with canopy height. At week 4: 1300 µmol/m²/s is high. But with CO₂ enrichment and no bleaching, they’re tolerating it. We are not chasing light for ego. We are watching leaf posture. Currently: • No tacoing. • No upper bleaching. • No stress fade. That means intensity is within metabolic capacity. ⸻ 🔦 Undercanopy Lighting — Minor Burn Explained Let’s address it clearly. One branch showed minor localized burn from undercanopy proximity. Why now in week 4? Because: • Bud mass increases reflectivity. • Leaf angle changes. • Tissue sensitivity rises during reproductive build phase. The under-light hit a close node. Symptoms: • Slight edge burn. • No necrotic spread. • No systemic reaction. Action: • Light repositioned. • Distance corrected. • Continued daily inspection. Response: She stabilized immediately. This is why daily plant handling matters. Yes, we physically take them out. Yes, it’s work. Yes, it’s worth it. ⸻ 💧 Root Zone & Feeding — Transition to Potassium Demand Soil EC: ~0.9 Watering EC: ~2.4 pH: ~6.5 Medium temp: ~22.5°C Moisture: ~94% with active dry-backs In week 4 flower, demand shifts: Nitrogen importance decreases. Potassium and phosphorus importance increase. Micronutrient balance becomes critical. Dry-back rhythm is stable. No EC stacking. No salt stress. No overwatering symptoms. They are drinking aggressively. That’s what you want entering bud expansion phase. ⸻ 🌸 Pistil Development — Now It Means Something Different In week 1, pistils signal initiation. In week 4, pistil density signals stacking potential. Right now we see: • Dense white pistil clusters. • Even site distribution. • No re-veg behavior. • No hormonal confusion. Flower genes are not just active. They are stabilized. The plant has committed to reproduction. What happens in the next 10–14 days determines final structure weight. ⸻ The Room Is Alive — But Heavier From the time-lapse frames: The room looks thicker now. More mass between nodes. Less empty space. Leaves are still praying. Stems are supporting weight confidently. No structural bending yet. We move plants daily: • Watering outside tent. • Full inspection. • Leaf repositioning. • Light proximity adjustments. This is not automation farming. This is hands-on cultivation. The room breathes. We respond. ⸻ What To Expect — Weeks 5–6 Stretch will fully slow Vertical stacking will accelerate Calyx swelling will begin RH must gradually drop Light intensity may need micro-adjustments Trichome heads will begin visible formation This is density window opening. ⸻ 🚫 What Not To Expect No dramatic fade yet No final terpene expression No harvest timing predictions No heavy amber trichomes We are mid-race. ⸻ 🙏 Gratitude — Because This Is Shared To GrowDiaries — for hosting the documentation. To the GD community — the observers and the critics. To Discord — Dogs University — where we break things down deeper. To Instagram — the visual storytellers. To sponsors — past and present. To the OG followers. To the new ones. To the lovers. To the skeptics. To the haters. Everyone shapes the process. Growth is friction plus intention. And Lemon Cherry Gelato, week 4 flower? She’s not promising. She’s delivering. 📡 DELETED @ 1K Please stay tuned.we never quit https://www.youtube.com/@DOGDOGTHEDOCTOR NEW 🙏 Thank you for your patience and continued support. FOR DISCOUNT CODES AND MORE JUST FOLLOW THE LINK https://website.beacons.ai/dogdoctorofficial 📲 Don’t forget to Subscribe and follow me on Instagram and YouTube @DogDoctorOfficial for exclusive content, real-time updates, and behind-the-scenes magic. We’ve got so much more coming, including transplanting and all the amazing techniques that go along with it. You won’t want to miss it. GrowDiaries Journal: https://growdiaries.com/grower/dogdoctorofficial Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dogdoctorofficial/ YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@dogdoctorofficial Deleted by Youtube Vimeo : https://vimeo.com/dogdoctorofficial Under construction stay tuned ⸻ Explore the Gear that Powers My Grow If you’re curious about the tech I’m using, check out these links: 🔆 Lighting & Environmental Control • Future of Grow — Advanced LED lighting technology https://www.futureofgrow.com/ DISCOUNT CODE: DOG20 • Lumiflora — Under-canopy LED lighting https://lumiflorade.com/ • TrollMaster — Environmental controllers and automation gear (past collaboration) ⸻ Genetics • Zamnesia Seeds — Genetics used in this project https://www.zamnesia.com/ ⸻ 🌱 Soil, Substrates, Boosters & Root Support • Plagron — Substrates, bio mixes, and supportive products https://plagron.com/en/ ⸻ 🎒 Storage, Curing & Preservation • Grove Bags — Curing and storage solutions https://grovebags.com/ ⸻ 📸 Photography Equipment & Tools (Not sponsors, but part of my creative toolkit) • Sony A6700 • Sony full-frame macro lens + few more • Stacking photography workflow - learning • iPhone (for behind-the-scenes shots) We’ve got much more coming as we move through the grow cycles. Trust me, you won’t want to miss the next steps, let’s push the boundaries of indoor horticulture together! As always, this is shared for educational purposes, aiming to spread understanding and appreciation for this plant. Let’s celebrate it responsibly and continue to learn and grow together. With true love comes happiness. Always believe in yourself, and always do things expecting nothing and with an open heart. Be a giver, and the universe will give back in ways you could never imagine. 💚 Growers love to all 💚 📸 P.S. – The Eye Behind the Lens All photos in this diary (for now — except for the ones showing the camera, which I took with an iPhone) are taken with a Sony A6700 paired with a Sony full-frame macro lens and a few more. Photography is part of the story — it’s how we share the fine textures, the glow, and the quiet details that words can’t always capture. I’ve also started experimenting with photo stacking — a technique where multiple images, each taken at a slightly different focus point, are layered together to create one perfectly sharp image from front to back. It’s not digital enhancement or AI; it’s pure photography — a way to reveal the plant’s beauty in microscopic depth, from trichome to petal. You’ll even see a few shots of "ghost me" capturing the shots — camera, lens, setup — because every grow deserves not just to be cultivated, but documented like art. FOR DISCOUNT CODES AND MORE JUST FOLLOW THE LINK https://website.beacons.ai/dogdoctorofficial NEW DISCORD - Official Server Invite Link : https://discord.gg/ksjAkA5T74

11/24 Week begins and she is reaching that point. Feed tomorrow and some defoliation no flush yet as new hairs abound 11/27 Gave her some 6.5 water with a bit of recharge as her tricones are very dense, all white or amber (1%) and may be our most potent grow yet. Harvest in a few days after holiday.

The girls have survived another week ❤️ I did a light defoliation and have been monitoring the RH closely. We have had a very damp week here, and the RH kept climbing and had my fan working hard. They are starting to plump up and fill in 😋. They have also started to slow their drinking habits, instead of watering every three days, it has moved to every 4 now. Just a couple of weeks left, I think I will be harvesting these over Christmas 🎄, and will have some great bud ready for the new year! 🎉🎊🍾

Das sieht nach einem extrem sauberen und kontrollierten Garten aus! Trotz des Spinnmilben-Schrecks wirken die Damen sehr vital und "aufgeräumt". Dass du heute nochmals leicht nachjustiert hast, war genau richtig, um die Fläche im Netz final zu besetzen. Hier ist meine Einschätzung zu deinen Fragen und dem aktuellen Stand: 1. Analyse der Fotos & Status * Die TC (Tropicana Cookies): Sie ist definitiv die "Anführerin". Die Blütenansätze sind deutlich ausgeprägter, und sie zeigt bereits die typische Struktur für den Übergang in die Hauptblüte. * Die Milben-Situation: Dass du nur noch vereinzelte findest, ist ein gutes Zeichen, aber Vorsicht: Die Eier sind winzig. Behalte den Rhythmus für die zweite Solabiol-Behandlung unbedingt bei, um den Lebenszyklus zu brechen. * Klima: 24°C und 60–65% RLF sind absolut stabil. Da du jetzt mehr Luftfluss durch das Entlauben hast, ist das Risiko trotz der RLF geringer geworden. 2. Fahrplan: Lollipoppen & Letzte Entlaubung Wir befinden uns jetzt am Ende der ersten Stretch-Woche (BW1). * Lollipoppen: Der ideale Zeitpunkt ist Ende der 2. bis Anfang der 3. Blütewoche (ca. in 7–10 Tagen). * Warum? Dann ist der Stretch fast abgeschlossen und du siehst genau, welche Triebe es bis ans Licht geschafft haben und welche im Schatten "Popcorn-Buds" bilden würden. * Ziel: Alles im unteren Drittel (unter dem Netz), was kein Licht sieht, wird radikal entfernt. Das lenkt die gesamte Energie in die Main-Buds oben im Netz. * Letzte große Entlaubung: Das machen wir zeitgleich mit dem Lollipoppen. Danach lassen wir die Damen bis zur Ernte weitestgehend in Ruhe, um Stress zu vermeiden. 3. Lichtleistung erhöhen Da du aktuell bei 45% bist und die Damen den Stress (Entlaubung/Milben) gut weggesteckt haben: * Vorschlag: Wir erhöhen ab morgen (Montag) in 5%-Schritten alle 2-3 Tage. * Ziel: Bis zum Ende der nächsten Woche wollen wir bei ca. 60–65% landen. * Wichtig: Achte bei der TC auf die Blattspitzen. Wenn sie anfangen auszugleichen (gelbe/weiße Spitzen), bleib bei der aktuellen Prozentzahl stehen. 4. Nährstoffe (PK 13/14) Da die TC so deutlich führt: * TC: Ab morgen kannst du mit 0,5 ml/L PK 13/14 starten. * CC & AA: Da sie etwas hinterherhinken, würde ich bei ihnen noch 2–3 Tage warten oder nur eine "homöopathische" Dosis (0,25 ml/L) geben, um sie nicht zu überfordern.

no he podido actulizar la semana pasada ya he hecho muhas cosas pero estoy de vuelta. comenzando la semana solo hechaba agua nada mas ya q tenia pensasdo cosechar la mitad de la planta el viernes/sabado ya q estaba haciedno mucha humedad por el frio y estaba apareciendo botritis y hongo rn algunos cogollos.

Week 6 of flowering, and things are heating up—literally with the scent! 🌬️💨 Both plants have significantly increased their aroma, and every time I open the grow box, I’m greeted with a strong and delightful smell that fills the space. The non-LST plant is much further along in its development. Its buds have progressed beautifully in color, and I’ve already noticed the first amber trichomes appearing. 🍂✨ This, along with its overall appearance, is signaling that it’s nearing maturity. Because of this, I’ve started flushing the plant with clear water to prepare it for harvest. Speaking of the LST plant, it’s about a week behind. 🌱 While it’s not as far along, it’s still thriving with strong trichome production and a stunning Lemon Haze aroma that’s sharper every day. 🍋💚 Both plants are doing great, and the differences in their timelines make this grow even more interesting. I’m excited to see how the LST variant catches up in the coming weeks! 😊🌟

Hey growmies, This week was about hands on the plants. The plants are hungry since I switched last week to 12/12. I've been feeding them every other day since it usually takes 2 days for the ppm to drop sufficiently. On the 15th, I've defoliated all the plants and cutted some offshoots that weren't worth it on the Tropicanna. Every day I've been adjusting the lines so they're as even as they can be at the cannopy. Hope next week the 2 photos are alredy flowering Good grows

7 SEMANA (4 FLORACIÓN) - SIGUEN SALUDABLES - LAS 2 GORILLA GLUE SE ESPIGARON YA QUE TIENEN 2 SEMANAS ATRASADAS NO LAS ELEVE Y YA ES TARDE - TODO VA EN ORDEN MUY SATISFECHO

She lived through the worst soil and the worst bug infestation I ever had. The insect soap I mixed up had a pH of 10, which burned but I was able to recover. The colors are Beautiful. It smell like a heavy Kush!

Week 1 of flush. I am watering her with pH'd water (5.5-6.5) 2-3 times daily. I am watering until roughly 50% runoff though not measuring. She has been fading for the last 2 weeks already and so her leaves are slowly drying out and dropping off daily. Gorgeous colours coming out of her though which makes flushing worth it for the sight alone.

Vrchni 3/4 květů jsou sklizeny. Zbytek sklidím asi za 2 týdny

Hello. This is the end of week 6 and the beginning of week 7 of veg. I woke here up by turning on the lights to take the pics. I meant to repot this plant last week but, I've been a day behind all week. I've got the pot washed and the soil mixed and am ready to get it done. I'll get it done tomorrow. OK. Keep Growing Straight. Chuck.

Apple Pie. mmmmmm 👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrification process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work

04/04/2021 Starting to shape up nicely and flower has started on both GSC & Blue Dream, time for a banana peel tea 1 tbls to 2 lt. water bottle will try two tbls to 2 liter next week to see if they will tolerate it.👍

Sie hat die sehr gemischte Woche mit viel Regen, Wind und etwas Sonne überstanden. Ihre Federn an den Triebspitzen beginnen sich rotbraun zu verfärben. Sie hat die Hauptblütezeit überstanden und reift nun weiter. Ich konnte keinen weiteren Schimmel entdecken, das behandeln mit Isopropanol hat sehr gut gewirkt , dank für den Tip @Comfrey. Leider ist es gerade sehr windig, so dass Makro-Aufnahmen nicht möglich sind. Es vertrocknen bereits mehr Stempelhaare als neue nachwachsen. Vielleicht wird sie gleichzeitig mit der Durban Poison fertig, was mich vor logistische Platzprobleme bei der Trocknung stellt. Wieviel Wasser wird benötigt um einen 72l. Topf zu flushen oder erledigt das das Wetter von selbst outdoor? Vielen Dank für den Besuch mit besten Wünschen für eine schimmelfreie Outdoor-Woche!😀 --- It has survived a very mixed week with lots of rain, wind and some sun. Its feathers at the tips of the shoots are beginning to turn reddish brown. It has survived the main flowering period and is now continuing to ripen. I couldn't find any more mould; treating it with isopropanol worked very well, thanks for the tip @Comfrey. Unfortunately, it's very windy at the moment, so macro shots are not possible. More pistil hairs are drying up than new ones are growing back. Perhaps it will be ready at the same time as the Durban Poison, which presents me with logistical space problems when it comes to drying. How much water is needed to flush a 72-litre pot, or does the weather take care of that itself outdoors? Thank you very much for visiting, and best wishes for a mould-free week outdoors!😀

Flush continues, plants yellow. Buds are heavy bending over. Smell is so rich. Thrics are cloudy /milky

I started getting new growth from the tops of my colas. I thought this might of been down to raising the light up 10cm but it might of been down to high light intensity so I also moved one abit further away from the other to try and help. The pictures in the dark and videos was around 4minutes before the lights came on as all my photos are over exposed. Next to this plant I have an experiment with pink kush and zombie kush using the light given of from this grow.

End of Week 3 into Week 4 and She's Growing BEAUTIFULLY without an Issue to Note. Huge Fan Leaves with Short Internode Spacing. I'm continually Tucking Leaves as an Alternative to Defoliation n it seems to be Working Nicely. Lower Node Growth Shooting toward the Top of the Plant. Her First Pistils have appeared so this Week She'll be getting "Transition" Feeding at 1/2 Dosage with Full CalMag Plus and a Light Dose of Liquid KoolBloom.

Transplanted from 0.25 to 1 gallon pot This is the first transplant of two. I will let these build.a root ball for 3 to 4 week and then do the final transplant into a 7 gallon pot. Installed blumats as well for irrigation. Crover crop added