Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

Week 9 (12-8 to 18-8) 12-8 Temps: 22.2 to 29.1 degrees Humidity: 47% to 61% Watering: Both 1500 ml. Dry Weight #1: 2.6 kg. #2: 2.7 kg. 13-8 Temps: 23.8 to 28.6 degrees Humidity: 57% to 70% 14-8 Temps: 25.1 to 29.8 degrees Humidity: 56% to 65% I found out that i had the timer on 16/8 instead of 18/6 for the entire 9 weeks. Maybe this is the reason why the plants dont grow that fast. 15-8 Temps: 24.8 to 29 degrees Humidity: 46% to 66% Watering: Both 1500 ml. Dry Weight #1: 2.5 kg. #2: 2.4 kg. Today is the first watering from the bottom. Also removed some leaves. 16-8 Temps: 24 to 28.4 degrees Humidity: 49% to 68% 17-8 Temps: 20.4 to 26.3 degrees Humidity: 45% to 79% 18-8 Temps: 21 to 28.3 degrees Humidity: 40% to 59% Watering: Both 1500 ml. Dry Weight #1: 2.6 kg. #2: 2.7 kg. Did some mainlining/scrogging

Allright! After the suspected light stress last week, the plants are in their second day of 18/6 light schedule and it looks like they are recovering. The front-left plant's upper leafs seem to be straightening out and overall the plants look healthier than last week 👌. I plan to measure the light intensity, but as things look now, there were two plants that were more susceptible to stress from the LED lights. It's not what you want in a grow, but it has taught me a valuable lesson. Don't just blindly assume a plant can handle 100% of the grow light in the third week ✌️☘️ In the end I don't think it affected the grow that much. The plant on the left corner in the back is a bit taller compared to the rest, but all plants look healthy and ready to start blooming! I have applied some LST clips on the side branches of the tallest plant. This guides the branches sideways and creates a more open structure. You can check them out at https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/growing/533-bending-clips.html 🌿🌿🌿 Mid-week update The plants have grown very fast this week and now they're all in bloom ✌️ Because of the fast growth, I've removed some of the fanleafs in the canopy, and fan leafs and small branches in the lower parts of the plants. I use the leafs for tea with liquorice in the morning and at dinnertime I chop them up for a mixed salad. The taste is really good and raw Cannabis is super healty as well.

Stretch is done. Defoliation for F21 will be tomorrow. Other than starting these too early. Happy with the progress! Bud sites galore, nice healthy ladies, fungus gnats on the decline. On cruise control soon!

8/9 shes flowering💚 pistils everywhere. Been feeding with open sesame from fox farms and everythings looking awesome. I am concerned about how lanky she is. Her node spacing is tight but shes long and the branches are already drooping from the weight from pistils and new leaves lol fml im gonna have to get stakes/supports soon 8/10 shes loving the weather or the nutes, shes praying so fucking hard its beautiful

Comenzando la quinta semana, sin novedad. Aún queda una semana para que pasen a flora. Esta semana las riego solo con agua, ya que el sustrato tiene los minerales, microorganismos y materia orgánica suficientes.

07/10: 5e semaines de floraison :D on approche de la fin. Arrosage tôt très tôt ce matin. 961ppm que du lourd ;) peut être encore un engraissâge avant la fin de la semaine mais je pense plutôt à commencer le "flushing". Je vais y réfléchir en fumant un bon petit pétard. ... 07/11: je réfléchis toujours :D #56 07/12: la patience est une vertue! 07/13: on approche de la fin de la 9èmes semaine :D #58 07/14: #59 on approche de la fin de la 5ème de flo. Ce soir ou demain matinous je commence le "flushing" et suivra la récolte quand je verrais des trichromes ambrée ce qui n'est pas encore le cas :). 07/15: premier rinçage. #60 07/16: début de sénescence (jaunissement des feuilles) qui était attendu signe qun la récolte est proche! #61 Demain début de la 6ème et dernière semaine.

Great week! I got some surprisly wonderful grow from my babies :) Today 03.11 i bend them a bit to expose them to the light, the blueberry and the gorilla are answering well, but the amnesia and the sweet zz are still small but the sweet zz is showing some pistils so I think I will grow a sort of bonsai 😂 Still curious how they will react to some enchanced water, tomorrow! 5.11 The plants react very well to the enchanced water, but I got a small problem with the humidity: sometimes it drops to 45-50%. Dunno why, sometimes I spray some water on them to keep them moist and happy 😇 7.11 Today I discovered that I could dimm the light! It’s SO BRIGHT right now! The famiglia is growing well, the Gorilla Glue is much bigger than the others, while the Sweet ZZ decided to stay at bonsai-level :/ 8.11 God created sunday for taking a break. I use my sundays to take care about my automatic famiglia! From now I’m pumping a bit more the two bonsais, while the others will grow as usual. The light is more bright than ever, the conditions are perfect! I even added a pot of catnip for the guardian of the growbox, since he’s curious and sometimes sneak into it while I’m refilling the water..

Grow going well, hand watering as needed for first 2 weeks. Plants germinated quickly. I soaked the seeds in solution for 4 hours then wrapped in a piece of paper towel and planted directly into coco with a small glass cover to trap humidity. All seeds germinated within 60 hours. Keeping HLG 600Rspec at 240w.

We are at week 3 now. A lot of development, i have not used liquid nutes this week, it is raining a lot so no water needed, thus no liquid nutrients. I have top feed of dry nutrients mix, basically a mixture of a super soil recipe that usually is used within to make a hot soil: I mix all tue ingredients together and use it gradually about 40g as a powder, in the top of the soil. - Azomite 500g - Natural fosfate 500g - Biochar 1kg - Bokashi 1kg -Kelp meal 500g -Mamona meal 1kg -chicken meal 1kg -Potassium silicate 500g -Gypsum farm 500g -Diatomaceous earth 500g Mix all keep it in a soil bag, this pure mix and use it once every month. The companion plants have emerged and will protect the soil humidity mainly.

11-13-24 ALMOST READY........ ORANGE CREAM POP,POWER,QUEENWULFF

6/11 this plant is so stunning. Packing on weight but sturdy branching

This is week five of vegetative growth and the last week before I switch them to Flowering stage. So far the ABLE Grow Chamber is working as well as I could hope. I am growing three different types of Cannabis - Sapphire OG, GSC and one with unknown strain. The GSC was light burned early on and was very damaged but she pulled thru enough that I can make a clone or two from her. It wakes me happy knowing that the chamber can bring back a sick plant with minimal intervention from me. I have been training Daphni (name for the Sapphire OG) for a Sea of Green method and she is getting really good light penetration. For my Hydroponics I am using a Rain Forest 66 reservoir and it has worked well also. On 9-7-18 I made clones from Daphni in preparation for flowering in about 3 to 5 days.

My first outdoor grow. This is around week 9 of growth. I got these 2 clones from someone and grew them indoors for about a month or so before hardening them off. They have been through plenty of training and topping and even more since this picture. As of 5 days ago they were nice and wide so I'm excited to see the growth since the. I have done a great deal to keep deer and bugs at bay. Neem oil, dog and human urine, dried blood, ground pepper and powdered, oregano, garlic and onion. The site is very difficult to access. Poison ivy, thorns, steep ravine and large logs to climb over. No paths there and I take different ways constantly, as well as through some fertilizer in my wake. There's a small creek near by and a larger one it fees into about 75 yards away. There's 3 bags of FFOF and 1 bag happy frog between the 2 holes, with amino acids and great white mixed in as well as some water polymer crystals.

Spider mites are getting worse. Also have to harvest soon cause I start travelling next week and I can’t finish and dry them in time. But the trichomes are almost ready

Lowered the light a little, plant is growing slowly as before, roots are not going along the tube, just waiting until I can chop it. Values are average of the day. DATE - EC(us/cm) 20250507 1805 20250508 1788 20250509 1729 20250510 1746 20250511 1801 20250512 1864 20250513 1878 DATE - PH 20250507 6.13 20250508 6.11 20250509 6.15 20250510 6.16 20250511 6.17 20250512 6.19 20250513 6.18 DATE - ORP (mV) 20250507 291 20250508 299 20250509 286 20250510 267 20250511 258 20250512 239 20250513 229 DATE - °C - RH% (Tent Temp/RH) 20250507 23.2 46 20250508 24.3 40 20250509 24.7 44 20250510 24.2 39 20250511 25.3 38 20250512 26.4 37 20250513 25.8 31 DATE - °C (Reservoir) 20250507 19.2 20250508 19.1 20250509 19.9 20250510 19.7 20250511 20.3 20250512 21.1 20250513 20.4 DATE - CF 20250507 18.05 20250508 17.88 20250509 17.29 20250510 17.46 20250511 18.01 20250512 18.64 20250513 18.78

LST'd the canopy out flat! She's about done stretching/stacking! I will start with Bloom nutes next watering, at 1 gallon dosage. (1tsp of floranova bloom in 1 gallon of de-chlorinated tap water, PH'd to 6)