The Grow Awards 2026 🏆 
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@Ultraviolet
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before.
Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way.
Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on.
Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay.
Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress.
Water and humidity
*Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:*
A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration
Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.)
A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant
Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration
A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis
The source of pressure to move roots through the soil
The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place
Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation:
RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure)
The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is:
3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75%
Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate.
The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down.
If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind.
Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp.
Plant Nutrition
Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant.
Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil.
Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur.
Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital.
Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles.
Fertilizers
Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface.
It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through.
Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth.
Nutrient absorption
Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop.
A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
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@BucketHatJack
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Watering every day. Tucking leaves and tying down whenever I’m in the tent. Removing large fan leaves blocking prime bud sites. Looking good.
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@HollowSource
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All looking good with the banner. The frost is coming and the smell is developing. She has stacked well and I think she might give the largest colas of the smaller plants. Hoping this makes up for the fact that she hardly stretched. The small plants are being raised so I can keep them close to the light. The amnesia is trying to bully them all. Been defoliating continuously with this lady. Hoping that can stop now and I can just watch her ripen up!
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@GR0WER
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New week starts!
🌞21.11.2022 light smelling started. I kame home today to smell thin delicious aroma my babies producing. It's good and bad in a same time! I gave them their first real dose of ph6.05 GHE nutrients in a proportions so called: 'First true leaves' and sprayed them with 'GHE SeaWeed' solution.
(Nutrients input was ph6, drainage - ph6.5)
🌞22.11.2022
New photos downloaded.
I sprayed my Bananas with 'GHE Sea weed' once more and moist the upper layer of a substrate with it.
My BPPa#1 is slightly smaller then her sister. She have thinner leaves and lower length. But she producing her brunches faster then BPPa#2. Second plant is thicker and higher and her new side brunches are smaller. Now I wonder who'll be larger in the end of this run.
🌞23.11.2022
No watering, only spraying with 'GHE SeaWeed' solution and moisture the upper substrate layer. My moist sensor for soil showing the beginning of a green sector. So watering will be tomorrow.
🌞24.11.2022
I watered my plants by ph5.9 full pack of fertilisers GHE (amount in a table). Luckily, soil ph starts to fall and today it's somewhere near ph6.8 mark.
My babies are slowing down in the main stem growth, I think it's all because there are a lot of side brunches rising up. When they'll form it well and their leaves will became darker - I'll change nutrients proportions to so called 'Vegitation' and add 'GHE Diamond nectar' + 'GHE Silicate'. Also, tomorrow I'll spray them with 'GHE Protect' solution instead of 'Sea Weed' because they're still on the early stage of veg.
🌞25.11.2022
Today is 'dry' day.
I sprayed my flowers with 'GHE Protect' solution. Nothing new, only one thing: they are awesooooome!
Tomorrow there will be 'SeaWeed' spraying, watering will go on sunday.
UPD: Asked the advice thru the 'Grow questions' option and started LST already - as a result. Today I can't bend them more, because I watered them yesterday - their trunks are full of juices and I'm afraid they'll crack in a half. Tomorrow I will bend them a little more, and the next day after, I hope, they will be lying on their backs like a puppies.
Thank You for Your help, grow mates!💪💪💪
🌞26.11.2022
I sprayed my beautiful girls with 'GHE SeaWeed' solution and moisture the upper layer of substrate with it.
Also, I made LST a little more. Substrate ph still near ph7, but they looks healthy and strong. So I'll go with ph6 solution tomorrow and wait them to produce more roots to regulate their environment.
🌞27.11.2022
Some more LST today and 'Sea Weed' spraying. Girl #2 is lying on it's back already, but BPPa #2 is smaller and her stem is shorter. I can't bend it down till she'll grow a bit more. Now waiting for one more floor to grow.
Week ends.
* Ph in a table is soil ph
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@Siriuz
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Started week 8
Day 52
We are excited to announce new growing light setup coming soon for the ladies, we want to make them grow big a better so we gonna be adding 600 watts soon!
In the meantime, we continue outdoors
From 6. 30AM til weather gets too hot
Once it reaches hot temperature and low humidity we bring them back indoors for CFL lights and Air conditioner plus fan
Since it's so hot in where we live it's tropical weather, we always have to keep an eye to the hygrometer and the weather in general.
So far so good, they're flowering and taking their time but day after day new buds are coming up, we've done some defoliation as well to get rid of those old leaves and the other ones that are too low and not gonna make it so the plant can return that energy into several buds that are already developing.
Thank you so much for your support, we continue to upload content and update daily if possible, sometimes we busy and can't do it at the same time but have no fear we got you cover, not gonna miss a thing tho!
Day 53
Ended up feeding them1710ppm per gal
So 300ml/3.79lts
Each plant plus 900ml of water
PH 6.2
Looking neat
Day 53
Felt like recording some videos today also the girls were looking good so why not
Great Weather great day today
They're happy and comfortable
Growing good :)
Day 54
Hey guys what's up?
We've upgraded to a new set of lights
Yeah dude they rock!
Day 55
All day indoors since we've got those new baby's we running them on 700 watts
VEG ON + BLOOM ON
Day 56
Now please take a look at those thricomes they are very good looking and we still have 5 weeks left behind til harvest day
Hell yeah :)
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@JohnnyBarrel
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Week 15 - flo 6 weeks
Satisfying period: maturation time. No really problems, just a doubt about the final result in terms of quantity and buds size. Even if’s not a goal to produce big colas : I would have a bigger result with a little bit more work on the plants., like LST. The TS 1000 (150W) led was too low (for the room size) during the end of vegetative and preflowering period now it’s a 250W led).
Every plants are healthy , still green (just few classical yellow leaves on base), producing lot of pistils and resin. The indigo Berry Kush is really appetizing: Frosty and meaty. Criminal+ and Special Queen shows lot of dense little flowers everywhere and some correct main buds. The NYC turn orange and flowers become thicker.
Each plant develops a pronounced and singular aroma. I will have a choice of different flavors and tastes.
Watering around 1,5L every 3 days.
- rain water + cal/mag + bud XL + diamond sugar
- rain water + cal/mag + overdrive (NPK-1/5/4) + diamond sugar
Ventilation + carbon filter Ok for smell
Now it’s question of patience. I will start to flush next week.
Processing
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@AgroCultiveta
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Holaa, 6ta semana y ya vamos superando los problemas de temperatura. Recibí la manta calefactora y la temperatura con el led apagado subió a 16-17ºC, es un gran avance con respecto a los 13-14ºC que alcanzaba.
Los esquejes van avanzando bien, el esqueje con la poda apical va desarrollando los tallos del centro y esta tomando una buena forma. El esqueje con LST esta tomando más fuerza en sus tallos principales y se vuelve más frondosa.
Empece a regar agua con EC casi nula y no eh podido agregar los nutrientes básicos para llegar a un EC base de 0.4. Por esto es que creo que los esquejes están presentando una deficiencia de calcio para esto estoy a la espera del producto SENSI CAL-MAG XTRA de Advanced Nutrients con este voy a corregir la EC base del agua de riego y aplicare una fertilización foliar para las carencias presentes. Espero que los resultados sean los esperados.
A los esquejes los acompaña la Negra 44 que tiene un diario aparte y un palto(aguacate).
Cualquier recomendación sera bien recibida!!
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@TommyBVRSA75
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Semana 1 de fase de floración (sprouting day 21/04/202)
1) Radiante y magnifico el desarrollo de las cepas híbridas con ascendiente de genotipo Indica ( las tres cepas de Mr.Hide Seeds - Mr. Shiska USA / Mr. Jekyll Kush / Mr. California Pearl y la cepa híbrida con ratio 60/40 de Sativa/Indica).
En comienzo de floración es muy claro que los trazos de Sativa en estas cepas híbridas, pese a que tengamos razones de genética (y sus fenotipos) marcados a un 70/30 (Ind./Sat.) ; 80/20 (Ind./Sat.) y 75/25 (Ind./Sat.) en acuerdo en este orden de Mr.Shiska USA // Mr. California Pearl // Mr. Jekyll Kush, Han revelado muchísimo de modo claro fenotipos de carácter Sativa y os explicó. En las tres cepas mencionadas resulta clarísima la naturaleza de hojas con puntas estrechas; internudos en regla cortas entre si y además la estructura arbustiva en forma general de abeto donde se diseña una cola central donde se desarrollará un cogollo central de dimensiones muy destacadas y después en áreas medianas a bajas, un conjunto de ramas secundarias donde se desarrollarán un número muy significativo de ramas donde el set de cogollos secundario se producirá sen limites mayores de estrés.
Resulta pues muy claro que las tres cepas referidas sacando al porcentaje menor de fenotipo Sativa, enseñan en esta entrada a floración, la estructura característica de un "pino de navidad" y por sus esbozos resulta muy claro que tendremos la ya mencionada cola central que será de un grosor muy significativo y todos los cogollos secundarios en las áreas de base. Todos los cogollos serán muy significativos a lo tocante a un carácter muy resinoso y al los cogollos esféricos que son muy típicos de los de los fenotipos Sativa. Además la linea de terpenos de los cogollos Sativa, acostumbran a tener un aroma muy pungente de pino; trazos dulzones y esse cierre terroso que es la imagen de marca de cepas Kush y mucho de las herencias OG.
En contrapartida, la cuarta cepa por orden y por qué las tres que ya han sido mencionadas por pertenecer a un mismo banco - el Mr. Hide Seeds - en el caso lá Lockdown Kush de Sensei Seeds, siendo una muy particular genética híbrida 60/40 (Ind.//Sat.) , ha revelado una genética que destaca por la enorme anchura de su grupo de hojas primarias de base.
La Lockdown Kush de Sensi es además una cepa con una característica muy definitiva, pongamos el enorme tamaño de su set de hojas primarias, la enorme anchura de las hojas; la disposición en cruce alternado de sus hojas primarias y además habrá que tener muy en cuenta el enorme cruce de un carácter increíblemente pungente de terpenos y de aromas tremendamente dulzones.
La Lockdown Kush será una cepa a la cual es necesario volcar una atención extremada en el plan de defoliación, pues la anchura de hojas y el cruce de los tipos alternados de las mismas, tendrá una importancia muy destacada para que no haya áreas del grow que queden con una combinación nefasta de caracteres como sombra, calor y humedad elevada
Esa área de hojas anchas cubriendo ramas secundarias - donde se dan condiciones para esbozos de cogllos- hay que estar muy al pendiente, pues con las condiciones de verano - temperatura y humedad elevada - si no se procede a un defoliado regular, puede que se den las condiciones para la expansión de patógenos de extrema gravedad.
En eso, no es nunca demasiado llevar en cuenta el surgimiento de hongos como mildiu, rimam y botritis.
Además los patógenos a nivel radicular, temibles en estas fechas pasan por algunos de niveles de letalidad de grow enormes como el Fusarium ó el Pythium .
No solo son patógenos que son críticos en su desarrollo sino que son muy agresivos en su expansión y además son muy rápidos en la forma con la cual eliminan a cualquier grow.
Además y si no fuera lo bastante, por ejemplo en el caso del Fusarium, si después de su surgimiento no se procede a una desinfección generalizada del medio de grow y incluso de toda la casa, los esporos del Fusarium se quedan latentes y es muy fácil que pese a que tiremos macetas y medios de crecimiento, al año siguiente, los esporos vuelvan a tener condiciones para reproducción y en Fusarium vuelva a desarrollarse de modo muy rápido y agresivo.
Nunca es demasiado poner los hermanos growers al dato y dar énfasis a todos que todos los años procedáis a la inoculación de mycorrhizas y sobretodo a lo que considero uno de los "escudos" de protección más efectivos en el grow canabico y que es el uso , SI Ó SI, de la Trichoderma harzanium y en todas las aplicaciones posibles - sea a nivel foliar; a nivel radicular, a nivel de las semillas y en combinaciones simbióticas con micorrizas; con bacterias de grow y con otros agentes.
Ha sido en los últimos años muy importante la aportación de estos agentes fúngicos; bacteriológicos y otros, para que el control de plagas sea efectivo sin necesidad de cargar el grow sea con óleo de neem; de los insecticidas de la "vieja escuela" como las Cipemetrinas; ó algunos agentes que en mi opinión siendo muy efectivos en lo que se desea crean desequilíbrios muy profundos en lo que sea considerado los biomas como la bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis.
Este agente de control de mariposas, pupas y orugas es la "solución final" a las mariposas, sus huevos, sus estágios de pupas y orugas, eliminando estos a una razón de casi 100%, pero para mi todo es muy sencillo, "la naturaleza le tiene ódio Al vacío" y que una bacteria te produzca extinción masiva de estos insectos, algo se altera en el bioma que causará a la postre, problemas en ciclos de vida de otras especies vegetales, animales, saprofitas ó otras y siempre le digo a los amigos que les apasiona la naturaleza y en concreto lo relativo a los grows canabicos.
Eliminar las mariposas, orugas y pupas, tendrá un impacto biológico que no es posible cuantificar...o sea...es justo para que nuestros grows estén protegidos de plagas que se haga uso de algunos agentes que permitan controlar el desarrollo y la relación biológica inter-especies. O seu, no necesitamos seguramente que nuestro grow este prejudicado por una plaga que lo coloque en riesgo, pero para la naturaleza como un "todo", no es en mi opinión válido, que se use un agente como el Bacillus thuringiensis, que elimina 100% de las mariposas y sus estadios, de huevos a pupas y de ahí a orugas y de ahí a mariposas.
En Biología, hay siempre que llevar en cuenta que las mariposas/orugas tienen una función y que si sacamos de un "exterminador total" como el Bacillus thuringiensis, estaremos creando un "inbalance" a nivel de bioma y con ello, tendremos quizás en poco tiempo, desequilíbrios en la cadena alimentar; en las bacterias, nematodos y otros seres vivientes, que necesitan de las mariposas/orugas para su ciclo y que en la naturaleza si como "humanos" y a "nuestra utilidad*, usamos una bacteria para eliminar las orugas/mariposas que nos comen las hojas del grow...la naturaleza y su plan es perfecto... Por algún motivo, hay necesidad de que puedan haber orugas y mariposas, que coman hojas de la Cannabis spp. (sin con ello haber un descontrol y una amenaza a nuestra intención). Por ejemplo, las mariposas tienen funciones de polinización y la acción de las orugas, tiene desde hace milenios, función de estimulación por estrés, lo que ha llevado a perfeccionar terpenos y incluso la estructura de producción de moléculas como el THC ∆-9. O sea que el estrés que las mariposas y orugas inducen, con su ciclo de alimentación, por ejemplo en el ciclo de grow de cannabis, es de importancia trancendiente a la evolución de la cannabis.
Imaginemos pues que desde el día 1 de la Cannabis spp., se hubiera empezado a cargar el suelos y hojas de la cannabis con el Bacillus thuringiensis, para que las orugas y mariposas no comiesen la Cannabis...como tendríamos mariposas que hiciesen polinización? Como podria la cannabis por el estrés, apurar sus canabinóides y sus terpenos?
Por eso y como os digo, para mí, las "soluciones finales" como el Bacillus thuringiensis, son un campo muy peligroso y es por antonomasia, contrariar la naturaleza en su perfección. Si la idea es tener un grow "perfecto", el "perfecto" es en mi opinión, especies que se interrelacionan, que "tiran" unas de otras y donde el principio de simbiosis se asegure...la cannabis necesita de orugas que coman de si, pues las orugas ganan con esa relación biológica en alimento; en desarrollo de mariposas que harán la polinización de la cannabis proporcionando variabilidad genética y la alimentación de las orugas y mariposas conllevará a la respuesta química de la planta, apurando canabinóides, aumento de tasas de estos y creando desarrollo de terpenos que serán fundamentales para efectos de "entourage" que mejorarán el producto final.
2) En entrada de floración hay que destacar la buenísima pegada de crecimiento a cada semana.
Este paso de vegetativo a floración con el cambio a 12/12 en el ciclo lumínico de encendido a oscuro, ha sido programado tomando en cuenta que el 24 de abril (día del cambio de ciclo lumínico) ha sido coincidente con luna nueva (ciclo lunar donde el estrés es menor y donde los cambios sufren un impacto menor).
Ha sido muy importante también estar "al dato" con el agua en el sistema, pues en macetas de 9 litros, si se hace fácil aportar exceso de agua, las características de los airpots también tienen una tendencia de un secado de sustrato más rápido y con ello hay que tener presente que los riegos tendrán que hacerse según necesidad.
En esta semana, como medida de rectificación creí necesario de hacer entre riegos, aspersiones foliares sacando a uso elementos que en este comienzo de floración son indispensables.
Pese a que el Boost de Hesi no sea un orgánico, en regla cuando usado en simultáneo como aspersión foliar con el Big One de Top Crop; el C4 de Mills; el Ultra MG de Gold Label y además el Organic Bloom de B.A.C. .
Así que disfrutad, hermanos y la próxima semana y entrada, que sea claro para vosotros el estupendo trabajo que está en desarrollo y muy claro tengo que estamos en la antepara de una temporada magnífica.
420 Forever y que el verde sea sempre nuestro corazón.
Abrazo,
Tom
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@RastaGrow
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Greetings Rastamans, as you can see my girl is getting thicker and is growing weekly. Every used fertilizers have very good results. Slowly aproaching the time of harvesting, This is evidenced by the trichomes as well as the timing of the flowering cycle. I believe that the harvest from this plant will be great. Use of the necessarry techniques at the right period of times gave me the results that you see yourselves. It is the last day of lighting. It will be in dark for 36hrs. Also today defoliation will take its place and I have already splited main stalk. hope you get enjoyment and also knowledge from my diaries. Wish you all good luck.
Yours trully Rastagrow
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@Kayotic
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*Plant #3
*Probably could go a little while longer, but here we go!
*Sprouted on November 3rd
*Day 101, Week 15
*Week 8 of flower
* 3 gallon fabric pots
* Own mix of soil ( Happy Frogs, Ocean Forest, compost, worm castings, DE, ,perlite...)
* Fed bone meal , cal mag, and Dr. Earth's Flower Girl 3 9 4
*Smells very fruity and sweet, super sticky, slight diesel
* Swapped between SF1000 and some Alphapar light, believe 150
*Going to attempt to dry in the closet , no room in tents
*Will update with weight and smoke report when I can
Update 3/18) All 5 plants have been chopped! I stopped weighing at 6 8 oz when I ran out of jars. Very sticky, sweet, fruity smell with a slight hint of pepper on one. Fantastic smoke, burns great and tastes amazing. Great for day time.
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@HelioCentricGrows
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So maybe a little early but i had multi reasons.. shes dank! smell is amazeballs! and quality is up there doing an auto cure (bucket + timer air pump) the smell is very creamy.. cant wait to press some!
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@BodyByVio
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They were showing signs of Ca and Mg deficiencies and I increased my CalMg additive at 350ppm before I add my base nutrients. They seem to love it.
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@PrinceOfHerbs
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The plants look very healthy, on day 17 of flowering, the lollipopping method was applied and leaves were radically removed.
Flowers become larger and larger and resin begins to form.
Flowering day: 17
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@Cannaguy
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Plants made it through the hurricane that came up the east coast and have been looking great! Trichomes are starting to show up left and right while the buds get bigger each day. The smell on the blueberry and mother of Berry is very fruity, while gelato x gmo smells more like diesel. Will most likely give plants another round of Jobes organics to help them through flower
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@Benzels
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Whats up again from down under growmies... Well its been a quiet week for me, plants are on auto pilot atm, nothing much to do aside from watering them with a light feeding mixed in. Starting to have to water more often now and the plants are making it obvious they are happier with more frequent watering's so thats what they are now getting. Caramelo has recovered even more from my mistake of over strength lime sulfur spray- lost a few bud sites that were totally burnt away and now there is a space on the stem where a popcorn bud should be but its not. But aside from that shes looking good. Hash plant is really getting going into bud now, for a near pure indica she has taken the longest to start flowering- hope thats not a sign she will be a light yielder...still if its old school hashy bud thats makes your eyes so red you look in the mirror and think "woah zombie!!" then I'll be pleased.
And Zkittlez- what can I say. Just LOOK at her!! How the hell is this plant only 4 and a bit weeks into flower?? If you told me that plant was in week 6 id believe you. And smell is amazing. Sweet and sour just like candy. And can be smelt from 20 feet away easy...lols.
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@The_Projexx
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I transplanted her into her final home so now we just wait for her to grow a little more then I imagine she will start flowering like her sisters in the room ! So far I'm impressed with this plant shes doing really well I'm excited to see her grow up some more !
A big thanks goes out to all the peeps that come check out the diaries you guys ROCK keep on keeping on !
-Happy Growing!
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@Jozef_Balcerek
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Urosły jeszcze 5-6 cm szczególnie Ethos. Podlewane woda-odżywki-woda (1.1L)mniej wiecej co 48h. Lampa 60cm / 75% nad najwyższymi szczytami. PH ziemi 6.5-6.7. Pożywka i woda lana PH6.5.
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@Inthejonh
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Aquí está el cambio ya estamos en floración. Espero que os gusten buenos humos
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@Chubbs
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420FASTBUDS
ORT2108 WEEK 6
These two have been growing amazing since sprouted. Keeping very uniform between the two both being nice and bushy and stacking up great. Still feeding the same tds/ppm every 3 days the plants seem to be responding well. All in all Happy Growing