The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
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BEAUTIFUL!!! I Think the issue was CAL def like i was thinking but I'll give it a few more days before i can confirm the problem is fixed. the scrog is looking really really nice!!! learned alot from my previous mistakes. keeping the temps down and not doing the co2 early the plants are nice and low and more compact. The Co2 has been started as well!
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Week 8 for White Widow by Greenhouseseedco, Shes got her final topping to 16 mains 😬 Or will she get the 32 mains treatment.... 😎 Ill probably keep her at 16 tops but we'll see how stuff goes as she still has 2 months of veg ahead of her... Have been fighting high humidity but atleast i still in veg😅 Will be buying a dehumidifier for flower time.
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Vegetative Woche 3: Tag 29 gab es das erste LST nach dem Umtopfen für die Ladys, damit sie das Zelt bald schön ausfüllen zu viert 😊 Hierfür einfach bodenhaken für die Triebe und am Hauptstamm nutze ich gerne die roten Clips. Tag 30+31 gab es nichts besonderes zu tun 😊 Tag 32 wurde das erste Mal gegossen nach dem Umtopfen mit 2l ph 6.2 Wasser mit 0,8g/l Enhancer, das Wasser habe ich zum ersten Mal mit meiner neuen Akkugießlanze verteilt und ich hoffe so noch gleichmäßiger gießen zu können 😊 Tag 33 wurden wieder mit LST gearbeitet und die Triebe mit den Bodenhaken weiter nach außen gebogen, damit ich möglichst bald ein relativ gleichmäßiges Blätterdach habe welches die gesamte Grundfläche des Zeltes ausfüllt. Tag 34 war wieder Ruhetag Tag 35 wurde wieder gegossen und zwar wieder mit 2l pro Pflanze mit ph Wert von 6.2 und 1ml/l Calmag und auch hier wurde zum Gießen di Akkulanze verwendet. Und so endet Woche 3 der Veg
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@Finsfan
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Finally in full flower mode. Ready to start putting on some serious size. I turned the lights up to 80% a couple days ago and they both are taking it well. No light burn yet that I notice. I'm not sure if I should start bringing the lights closer at 80% or keep the distance but instead Increase power to 90%. Going to feel it out as we go. Happy so far for sure. Update: increased light to 100% . No lead burns or weird looking leaves yet.. Just bulking up and very thirsty! Doing a nutrient/nutrient/water feeding schedule now.
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Very happy with the yield which was close to a gram per watt used with a quite low yielding strain and that was with a very very close trim job. Could easily have been a gram a watt had I not trimmed it for a top shelf look. Quality was as usual 10/10 with runtz muffin which I have come to expect. Such amazing phenos to be found.
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Processing
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She’s fat and happy! Every other day I’ll bring her out and move the hooks to keep her flat. String each cola to the pot once they hit the sides. Feeding her right at 1/3 gallon twice a week. And watering now on two off days. Thirsty is happy in my book. Still 2 1/2 weeks from the flip. Prob 3. Till next week.
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She went from 40cm to 73cm within 5 days. Week 5. Day 1
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@smoker420
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Stopped using biobizz fishmix and switched to biobizzgrow as its pure molasses
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Welcome back 🙌🏼 Update - Week 4 - just through week 4 and things are looking great. The runtz is finally starting to pack on some size, and both plants are beginning to get some girth to them too! Moving into week 4 now - I’ve just got a new light that’s pretty much double the intensity, and the light coverage reaches the sides of the whole tent now from 12/14 inches away from the tops - so hopefully we shall see the buds start popping. Switched out voodoo juice for B52 now. Photos don’t show the best pics of the trichs forming, but they’re starting to pop off. The zkitttlez seems to still be slightly ahead of the runtz in development and it’s starting to produce a lovely scent on the nose. Other than that, business as usual! 😎 Thanks for reading! 🤟🏻
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Welcome to my first grow! SET UP -------------------------------- Grow tent 2 x 3 x 6 hidden on a closet LED Panel VIPARSPECTRA 450w (200w real) Air filtration VivoSun 4 in Air circulation: 120mm computer fan GROWING ---------------------------- Medium (red solo cups): 75% Pro Mix Organic Seedling Starter Mix + 25% Perlite Medium: 80% Pro Mix Organic Vegetable & Herbs Moisture + 20% Perlite Smart Pots VivoSun