The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
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@WestOzzie
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Flowers are getting bigger by the day now,not much more i can say .. she's loving life
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What a trip with these Monster Zkittlez. We have almost reached the end, going through many fears we are reaching excellent results for real. I have three young ladies planted one before and two more after 10 days to test the right vegetative times. The first was worked with very aggressive LST and now I dominate many weeks of flowering is fantastic. They are putting all of them very much but they are filling up really well except one that seems lost and is not bad. In fact, the two smaller ones were also low stressed and treated with an aggressive pruning to keep only a big main cola and something lateral. One has filled very well another is filling less and very slowly but still with dignity, I gave it up for lost but even the ugliest is not bad. The big has some scary banana. The frozen speaks for itself sugar dripping from everywhere early harverst next weekend
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Pow Pow Pow what can i say, i mean even the frogs here were hypnotized with this monstrosity size Mama she is all one can ask and so much more, wen harvesting these cutie pie beast Lady i felt the need to break her in small peaces , or smaller that the them baseball bats collas hihihi OMG them colas OMG . She rested for 2 weeks in the rack with temps and RH at 60/60% and she was ready for trimming, trimming her was super easy since her frutes are compact and dense , end up with great trim that i will do extractions asap, have the felling she will give me great returns <3 <3 <3 A true pleasure and delight all the way from seed to harvest , now will came the big and final test and with it the smoke review hehehe, thank you SSSC for the opportunity and for everything and also big shout out to GD without the platform nothing of this wold have been possible <3 <3 <3 l As always thank you all for stopping by, for the love and for it all , this journey of mine wold just not be the same without you guys, the love and support is very much appreciated and i fell honored and blessed with you all in my life <3 <3 <3 #aptus #aptusplanttech #aptusgang #aptusfamily #aptustrueplantscience #inbalancewithnature #trueplantscience #sssc #monstergirl #dogdoctorofficial #growerslove 
 With true love comes happiness <3 <3 <3 Always believe in your self and always do things expecting nothing and with an open heart , be a giver and the universe will give back to you in ways you could not even imagine so <3 <3 <3 Friendly reminder all you see here is pure research and for educational purposes only <3 <3 <3 Growers Love To you All <3 <3 <3 Strain info : About Auto Purple OG Punch cannabis seeds To create Auto Purple OG Punch we crossed our feminized Purple Punch with an autoflower OG Kush. The original Purple Punch is a cross between Larry OG and Grandaddy Purple, illustrious and stable indica dominant THC-rich heavyweights! The total grow cycle from autoflower seed to harvest is a short 9 weeks. You will be rewarded with a large yield of sticky resinous buds, up to 600g/m2 indoors. If you’re looking to grow a high quality indica auto made with cannabis cup winning genetics you will love Auto Purple OG Punch. THC content is always up-to/around 20%. Auto Purple OG Punch effects are intense, euphoric and relaxed. She also contains around 1% CDB which contributes to the very smooth, chilled smoke. Expect a mouthwatering blend of sweet tasting candy, dark fruit and hints of spice. A real connoisseur cocktail with powerful effects! She normally reaches around 1m tall. But in optimized conditions with LED grow lights you can see occasional monster plants up to 2m tall with XXL yields. Auto Purple OG Punch is easy, potent and heavy yielding indoors. She also delivers well outdoors - such as the balcony or garden. Auto Purple OG Punch is a perfect, powerful strain for a quiet relaxed day. The calming indica body effect is very satisfying and de-stressing
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@EasyName
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I believe I could get thicker and taller buds, if I'd have done a better manifold. However she still produced very potent & stickie buds with a sharp aroma. Definitely a strain for all level growers 🤠
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She’s growing well and finally starting to grow out of her lil leaf mutation at the beginning.
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1/18 - 1/24: Getting fatter by the day. They got two feedings this week with cha ching, and I'll start flushing them when then are dry next.
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Plants are doing well, The 84" inch tent is a must if your not training or topping. I removed all the sacks that appeared last week and I haven't seen anymore show up so fingers cross, I check daily. Bigger tent also helps with heat control as the air has more room to rise. Hope you all like the pictures, I started to take videos as they provide more detail with less work.
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@FloKTC
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9.10 - 5L 10.10 - 5L 11.10 - 5L , i lost some buds due to bud rot : ( 12.10 - 5L 13.10 - 5L 14.10 - 5L 15.10 - 5L only osmosis water
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In Woche 3 zeigt die GMO Rootbeer richtig, was in ihr steckt. Der umgelegte Head aus der letzten Woche hat perfekt auf das LST reagiert: Die unteren Triebe sind deutlich nach oben gekommen und beginnen aktiv um die Spitzenposition zu konkurrieren. Genau so soll es aussehen, wenn man früh mit dem Biegen startet. Die Pflanze bleibt insgesamt kompakt, aber das Wachstum hat klar an Tempo zugelegt. Mehr Blattmasse, breitere Fächerblätter und deutlich sichtbare Knotenabstände — alles ein Zeichen dafür, dass sie die Trainingsmaßnahmen gut wegsteckt. Auch der Hauptstamm wird zunehmend stabiler, was das weitere Formen einfacher macht. Mit leichten, täglichen Korrekturen im LST wurde der Head in der Position gehalten, während die Seiteäste weiter nachgezogen haben. Keine Stressanzeichen, kein Hänger — GMO Rootbeer scheint das sehr gut zu vertragen. Die Bewässerung blieb moderat, immer im Wechsel zwischen leicht antrocknen lassen und wieder frisch gießen. Der Wurzelballen scheint sich gut entwickelt zu haben, die Pflanze steht fest und zeigt keinerlei Mangelerscheinungen. Alles in allem eine sehr produktive Woche, in der die Struktur für einen breiten, gut belichteten Wuchs gelegt wurde. Wenn sie so weitermacht, wird sie in Woche 4 eine richtig schöne, gleichmäßig geformte Veg-Pflanze.
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She's coming along, slow but steady. Roots now emerging from sides (not bottom, weirdly) of rockwool cube. Solution below is at EC=700 uS/cm and PH=5.8.
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This is the week right before the 24 hour dark period and switch to 12-12 looking very healthy
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@Canna96
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This week went pretty well, other than she stretched like crazy and I am now getting worried about running out of vertical space. I also had a few of my bottom leaves get a few brown and yellow spots on them. I did post some pics and asked a question, thank you for the responses, much appreciated! I am thinking about adding my Spyder Farmer LED 100 Watt light into the tent for the nebula auto because it is about 23 inches shorter than the sour diesel. I believe it would only raise my temp about 2 degrees, and possibly lower the humidity by one or two percent. I must say my dehumidifier has been a freaking stud, running 24X7 and not complaining. I should look into adding another unit, it has been in the mid 90's and muggy for about a week. So far I have to say I am super impressed and excited with this setup, the genetics, and with growing this wonderful plant in general. Already planning ahead to my next grow, and what I can do better. I have been enjoying myself and I really appreciate everyone who has taken the time to answer my questions! I am having a blast and am excited to see what this lady will give up in a few weeks!
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Siamo agli sgoccioli, un altro paio d giorno.. forse settimane e raccogliamo!