The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
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The two Red Hot cookies were by far the fastest strains in this run. And also simply beautiful. Bag appeal: 10/10 Yield: 8/10 Pheno #1 47 gram dry Taste:? High: ? Once I did a smoke test. I will add the missing information! Pheno number #2 has significantly more yield than Pheno #1. Pheno #2 smells like bubble gum, I've never had that smell with a strain before. If I had room for a mother tent, pheno#2 would have gotten a spot there. I'm looking forward to the next harvests !:)
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@Wenz004
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Jetzt ist mir klar warum Sativa so lange brauchen - nach 2 Wochen und 2 Tagen Stretch kaum noch richtige Blüten sichtbar - heute 4.1 Liter Getränk eher inhaliert als getrunken. Weiter gehts.
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An intense heatwave has been rolling through the grow environment, making it tough to dial in the VPD. The air is very dry, and since I don’t have a humidifier (yet), mitigating the high temperatures has me stuck between a rock and a hard place. Fortunately, I’ve reached flower, so a drier environment isn’t the worst thing in the world. But it’s definitely been a challenge! --- Quick rundown on everything else: Watering: 1500ml every third day Fertilizer: According to the BioBizz schedule Light intensity: ~1000 PPFD VPD: Around 2.23 kPa Temperature: ~30°C Relative humidity: ~40%
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@Ninjabuds
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Bubble og I still have 4 of these guys going. A few of them are still dark green and pretty decent growers they have thiner leaves. I'm sure a few of these will be on the chopping block later down a few of them just have crappy start growth and they need the humidity at 75% or above 100% the time with the light lower than normal or they start to shrivel up. That's not all of them just a couple. Also I am only going to flower 8 plants out if the 12 seedling and I have 5 strains going so can't have half my plants bubble og (wish I had room to grow the full 12 plants at a time) It's looking like a good start to a week the plants are strong they are getting to the point I can let the dried dry out completely. I'm thinking by the end of this week the plants will be starting to be sold. Last week I put all the plants into my bigger 2x4 tent with my medicgrow mini sun 2 the 500w version. Only a few of the plants were ready for that light. Seems like the only plants that really have good resistance and have a strong start are the weedseedsexpress.com seeds. Shout out to weedseedsexpress.com for the strong plants. I ended up putting all the plants back into my 2x2 tent with the 55w amazon light it has alot more blue light in its spectrum. It's kinda weird b4 I switched the plants to the 2x4 tent they were getting 220umol under my amazon 55w led then when I put them under the 500w light 25% strength about 50in from plants and they were getting only about 195umol in that tent but it was stressing most the plants. I assume a larger light has more side lighting hitting the plants. I think when useing larger lights it's good to measure umols from the top but also coming from the sides. I think durring seedling stage they only need about 50% the umols coming from the side the plants as the top is receiving. When I put the plants back in the small tent about the same umols as they were getting b4 the switch and they were still a little stressed. So for a few days I put the small light at the top the tent giving them 100umols for a few hrs then 130umols the rest the day.
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Week two I tried the scrog net but ditched it. Started using the heavy 16 line up as well. I had a spider mite issue that I squashed with neem oil. You can see they are bouncing back.
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The tops on these girls are getting so heavy and the smell is crazy lemony and piney so strong it smells like your smoking a joint right at the window all the time even with my carbon filter. I'll be breeding with this lemon skunk strain in my next grow. Stay tuned for new genetics and making my own genetics going to be running chemo,blueberry,m39gdp,gg4 and will be crossing with the lemon skunk pollen fingers crossed 🤞🙏
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almost ready for harvest, really fast strain, i love that !
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Hi everyone, Weed brothers! This genetics is really a rock! Strong and resistant stems and a beautiful roof of flowers No signs of deficiencies .... I think I'm going very well .... hopefully in an excellent harvest
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@Roberts
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Big Fat Wedding Cake is doing really well under the Spider Farmer G5000/UVR40 lights. I have continued training, by lst, defoliation, and root pruning her tips. Everything is looking really good at the moment. Nothing else really to report. Thank you Spider Farmer, Athena, and DutchFem Seeds. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g Spider Farmer Official Website Links: US&Worldwide: https://www.spider-farmer.com CA: https://spiderfarmer.ca UK: https://spiderfarmer.co.uk EU: https://spiderfarmer.eu AU: https://spiderfarmer.com.au G5000 Light Amazon Link: amzn.to/4643esa UVR 40: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BR7SGTHS Discount code: saveurcash (Stackable)
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Ladies and gentlemen today is day 80 and as you can see, we still have a ways to go.. As always I'd like to thank Zamnesia Seeds and Plagron for putting this contest together 💚 .. as you guys can see, this girl has got some size to her especially for being in a smaller pot .. she is a little low on nitrogen but I don't think she has more than 3 weeks left so i'm kind of torn as to whether or not I should hit her with some .. i think next feeding, I'll give her a little nitrogen, and then that'll be it. Aside from another feeding or two of green sensation, then we flush .. i hope everybody's doing well and so are there ladies 🙏 .. god bless everybody and happy growin ✌️
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WEEK 11 - 29-8-2020 - 04-9-2020 02/9/2020 - Nutrient mixed with 20 gallon filtered water. Each tank filled with 10 gallons: Silicon - 1.5ml/gal ~ 30ml Cal mag - 2.5ml/gal - 50ml Micro - 5ml/gal - 100ml Gro - 3ml/gal - 60ml Bloom - 7ml/gal - 140ml Hydroguard - 2ml/gal - 40ml Nitrozyme - 5ml/10L - 40ml Ph 6.00, Ppm 820, Temp 21 04/9/2020 - Did minor defoliation for plant 1. Heavy defoliation for plant 2. Plant 2 is really bushy. Hope after this defoliation it will stretch and get to same level as plant 1. I prefer not to supercrop plant 1. Carbon filter prefilter changed to a new one. So far the girls are looking great!
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Moved this week so mostly just fed them. Switched to just water.
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After three weeks in the solo cups I transplanted to 1 gallon pots and three days later I noticed yellowing on one of the plants so in 16oz of water I mixed in 1/4 tsp of Epsom salt and gave it to both plants in fear of magnesium deficiency but the other plant is thriving and growing strong. YouTube video:
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This plant is flexxxxing! 💪💪💪 Day 18 - I am so impressed with the boom of growth from this plant! She's looking healthy as ever after her feeding yesterday. I'll take a picture of her root system when I change the reservoir. She's going to be a beast! Day 21 - Approaching topping day. This chick means business. This has been smooth sailing so far! Her leaves are so big, healthy and green. I increased my LED to full spectrum.
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We've had a fairly warm week for our part of the world...I hope it holds out, I'd really like another 4 weeks....
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