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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
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@Vet4weed
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This week I switched over to 12/12 light cycle to begin flower stage. Cycled through a sequence of blue, red, and purple light to develop taller (red) and fuller (blue) foliage, using both (purple) at times as long as I could keep the temp under 79F. Man! once I switched over, they began taking off! Some of the more dominate branches began taking over and blocking the smaller ones in record time. I had to add a couple filler lamps (1 LED & 1 CFL, both white) to even things out a bit. NOTE: reverting back to actual Plant-to-Lamp distance (vs Screen/Net-to-Lamp).
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This is a giant autoflower that reaches 150cm and produces massive yields of up to 600gr/m2, a modern Cali strain that offers what a top-quality Indica-dominant hybrid should; nugs capped in resin with the density you would expect from Indica-dominant strains and that bag appeal that will surprise even the most experienced growers. Expect beautiful purple and magenta hues that come along with a sweet almost pastry-like taste and, thanks to the 24% THC, a very pleasant and potent effect that surprisingly starts as a motivating high and in no time relaxes you completely, taking a bit of the energetic edge off. Tech Specs Taste Blueberry Muffins, Cherry, Spicy THC Up to 24% CBD < 1% Size XXL Height 90 – 150 cm Flowering 9 weeks Genes Sativa 15%/Indica 85% --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Grow Sponsored by MARSHYDRO HIGH EFFICIENCY WHITE LED LIGHT: Newest SMD LED technology provide highest PAR/LUMEN output(743umol@18"), designed to replace a single-ended 250watt HPS; MARS HYDRO TS 1000W Plants Growing lamp makes you get 30% higher yield compare OLD blurple led lights, Max 2.0g yield per wattage (power draw) LOW ENERGY CONSUMPTION GROW LIGHTING : Consuming only 150W with 342 LEDS! It saves up to 50% energy than other led grow lights. Perfect for 2.5x2.5ft,Max coverage 3x3ft. Over 90% light energy can be absorbed by plants; higher intensity and more even coverage in a MARS HYDRO grow tent, reflective area, or by crossing over using multiple TS1000 SUNLIKE FULL SPECTRUM LED INDOOR GROWING: 660-665nm Red IR/3200-4200Knm/5200-6800Knm, infinite close to natural light, best for all plants all stages growing, rapid plant response from seed to flower and increase yield & crop quality‎ HIGH REFLECTIVE & NOISE FREE-Fanless LED GROW SYSTEM design will make your growing life easy and quiet, quickly heat dispersing material aluminum reducing light lost to aisles and walls, increase the light intensity up to 20%, allowing your plants receive more energy and without burning your plants for maximum headroom Get your own at https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07ZVFBR34
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@Chubbs
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420Fastbuds FBT2302 Week 9 What up what up. Weekly update for these twins. Wow talk about some colas. These have some chunky colas that are just covered in crystals. I'll start checking trichs this week to see how they're looking I'll be looking for an 80/20 split of cloudy to amber. Not seeing to much fade yet but I'll still stop feeding nutes this week and start just giving pH water from there on out until harvest. All in all Happy Growing
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nov 22. megacrop 1.06gr/litre ph'ed at 6.3. about 500 ml nov 24. didn't water today since the top soil was somewhat wet nov 24. Started some very light defoliation nov 25. megacrop 1.06gr/litre ph'ed at 6.3. about 400 ml nov 27. megacrop 1.06gr/litre ph'ed at 6.30. about 450 ml
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@Comfrey
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Growing well. Some insects hovering around. Soil is moist so I watered only because I wanted to give some field horsetail.
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@Jimmy89
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Had quite a defoliation this week, taken most of the big fan leafs off and given their legs a shave. Plenty of flower sites appearing. The plant that has been pale all along is starting to come round now, my own fault for not feeling the weight of the pot and letting it get over watered the Migro aray 4x4s are now at 100%
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After a comeback, the train is in the station! Even though I broke the main stem, she was an easy grow. I just basically let her do her with great results. Buds are thick and dense. Time for the drying and curing.
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Amazed by the smell.Cant even explain it.sweet citrus. Smell like cookies. Started 1 blue gelato in flush .second blue gelato 41 start flush in couple off days,probely one more small feeding .The critical kush 1 more week in feeding than flush. That's mean I almost there.didt had not one issue with my grow. But knowing its not over yet.I'm realy excited 😁. Peace✌️
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Hung up my new California Lightworks UVB supplement light. I think I originally hung it a bit too close (18 inches from canopy) based on the subtle color change in the leaves, so I raised it up to 24" above the canopy. I was most certainly skeptical, since this is my first time using UVB, but even over the course of its first week under the bulbs I've notice a VERY visible increase in trichomes. Every one of this plant's buds is COVERED in trichomes! It looks like someone sprinkled sugar all over the damn place!
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Welcome back at the first week in vegetative stage of my Sensi Amnesia. As you can see, she got repotted in a bigger pot with new BioBizz LightMix soil. So far the growth of this lady is good. I started my Honeywell ventilator to give very slight wind in my tent. Also my Sanlight LED is now running on 60% with 40cm distance. This week she gets time to comfort herself in the new environment. Hopefully she will get some new leafs. Day 12: gave her the first water after repotting and added BioBizz Bio Grow with 0,75ml/L Day 14: gave her 0,5l water with 0,5ml BioGrow per liter. End of week 1 without any trouble. It’s nice to see the progress over the last 7 days. Will keep this strategy next week I noticed, that my tab water has a pH level of 7,8. I mixed it with filtered water to get between 6 and 7 Keep in touch ! Cheers HighZenBerg
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- LAS PLANTAS YA NO SE ALIMENTAN . Y SE LES HIZO LAVADO DE RAÍZ , EMPEZÓ EL COLOR AMARILLO EN SUS HOJAS Y OTRAS A CAERSE - NO SE VEN CARENCIAS NI EXCESOS - el hps de 600 MANTIENE MI AMBIENTE SIN MAYORES INCONVENIENTES -SALIERON COGOLLOS DENSOS Y RESINOSOS , BASTANTES DUROS SOBRE TODO LOS GORILLA GLUE
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Como estáis fumetillas, yo estoy flipando, y es que las flores de estas skunks son como rocas, y no solo lo compactas que están si no que están bastante tricomadas, las 3 a cada cual más , lavamos las raíces y ya estarán solo agua, dejemos que termine de florecer y madurar, tampoco hay prisa, ph controlado temperatura ideal, bajamos algo más la humedad, puede que tengamos que tuitear alguna pero estoy evitándolo, se irá viendo estos días, ya nos veremos esta semana que viene un saludo familia y buenos humos.
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@kijani
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she is still branching, so i realized she needed ore space and put her out in a larger 4x4 tent as compare to the orignal 2'x2'. the tent has more cmlights then the single one in the smaller tent - this made the girl start to uptake nutrients such that there is very little drained to waste. i also put a screen to start scroging over her. the screen has large holes, so i think it may require high stress training to move the stems to the next section without breaking them. the data from grow rooms sensors etc gets overwhelming quickly and i can't really keep up. so i created a graphical animation visualizing for the composite garden data from the live garden sensor data. this is fun as things on the dashboard change colors and shape based on the sensor status. it is also interactive as i can also send commands to say control the lights, pump by clicking on them on the animation. . i am still using my doser to mix nutrients and then refill this garden manually. besides the plant response to the increased lighting , all other conditions i can adjust are still similar.
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@Mz876
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I was slightly disappointed with the yield but I’m content with the taste and affect that I got from the plant .
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@Drtomb
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Not much to report. Growing very well. Little to no issues.
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Tout pousse bien, une forte croissance qu'il faut guider 🌱. L'engrais est efficace, il va falloir bientôt changer de régime alimentaire.⚗️ Le système d'évacuation d'air n'est toujours pas en route, une légère odeur de plante verte. 🌪️🌿
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@x_grower
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Last week the plants grew looking very healthy although I still have a feeling the low humidity is slowing their growth, by the end of the first week I started raising the EC to make the increasing for this week smoother, run-off EC is substantially increasing so I will start to fertigate them twice a day for this week.
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we got this strain from super sativa seeds club to test grow, and the results are highly aligned with the super sativa seeds club standard and totally fulfil the expectations. This strain streched like a sativa but the buds grow as fast as an indica and got nice, hard and fat in around 7 weeks, another week to get totally ripen and you will get rewarded with nice, sweet buds, exploding in thc. This strain is perfect for true connoisseurs, the terpenes will definitely surprise any grower. This strain is suitablefor a good sog, to plant 20 in a grow room and flower them directly after 2 weeks. I did used some support to avoid buds falling around and sustain the weight of the buds. Some slight defoliation will help to have even the smaller buds get enough light, but in general we didn't removed to much leaves as the leave bud ratio is already optimal on the strains genetic.
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things are getting huge. did another feed with 2-8-4 and brewed a compost tea. i bought one of those huge vivosun air pumps and a couple big air stones. just warning the pump gets hot! i have really big fan blowing on it and it seemed to keep it a nice normal temp drinking about a 1/2gallon of water a day