The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
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@Zuppler
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Grow Report: Zuppler's Sea of Green - Florida Gang Style Strain: Donutz (Humboldt Seed Company) Grow Tent: 120x60cm Light Setup: 320W LED Medium: Floragard Growmix soil Containers: 3.7L pots Water: Reverse osmosis (RO) water Nutrients: Greenhouse Feeding (planned for later stages) Week 1 - Poppin' Off The journey begins with a 10/10 germination rate — strong genetics showing their strength right off the bat! All seeds have sprouted and broken through the soil surface, ready to ride the wave of growth under a 320W LED, casting down consistent rays in the 120x60cm tent. The initial focus? Establishing solid roots and healthy shoots in Floragard Growmix soil. No nutrients added yet; the young Donutz ladies are riding on the starter mix's nutritional buffer. RO water keeps everything clean and pH balanced, ensuring no unwanted minerals creep in this early. Observations: All seedlings looking vibrant, green, and strong. Uniform growth across the board — perfect for the Sea of Green (SOG) method. Temps stable, ensuring no stress. Light is dimmed a touch for the youngins, keeping nodes tight but not overwhelming. Next Steps: The plan is simple — maintain stable conditions, keep an eye on humidity, and prepare to introduce Greenhouse Feeding once the seedlings are ready to crank up the nutrient game. For now, it's all about building those roots and establishing a foundation for the dense, resinous canopy that’s to come.
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what a resin monster! such beautiful plants! one of the 2 phenos had straight peanutbutter flavor!
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Not much lateral growth, main stem still
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All good in the neighborhood 2 of 3 moved to the brand NEW FRIDGEGROW 2.0 system. the orange one lost... ;) just after a few days in the new home they grew like mad
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Spent the whole week wondering if I was over or under watering. I was waiting about 3 days between waterings and only watering until I saw a few drops come out the bottom of the cup. I've been nervous because I keep seeing the most common mistake new growers make is overwatering. Ended the week with a poorly executed transplant into a 1 gallon smart pot (it's all I have atm). The root ball held together for the most part but after I got it into the new pot it kept falling over. Its standing up now. Hopefully it's not too mad at me.
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Plants are growing well exept one that as rust on her leaves. I placed the scrog net I’ll place them in flower in 2 weeks
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Flower Week 0 Day 0 to 6 - 3/18 to 3/24 Flip Week. I used Flip - Day 1(63) Schwazze extreme defoliation and plan to do it again on flip day 21. This seems to encourage growth of the buds while allowing more airflow and training space in my grows. In which I used HST of he center colas of P1 and the center branches on P2 Feed this week was again an auto pot reservoir feed at 600ppm total before add-ins. I used 450ppm Veg concentrate mix (recipe week 2) and 150ppm Bloom concentrate mix (recipe week 5). However, I also added 1ml/gal of CaliMagic (General Hydroponics 1-0-0) and ph balance this week was for 5.8 where Io plan to maintain it until harvest. They should be mostly root feeding now and this should help with the uptake of nutes. Next week nutes will increase in Bloom mix again but also reduce in Veg mix. Feed will be 650ppm before add-ins with 5.8ph before feeding. Training of stretch will also happen next week.
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@Nvchods3
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esta semana le aplique big one de forma foliar para empezar a estimular la Pre-floracion !
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@XanHalen
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Nov 29: They seem to be accelerating in veg growth but I see a small portion of the leaf on the smaller plant either grew in mutated or somthing cut it, I haven’t seen a single bug in the box so I don’t think it’s that but you never know, and the bigger plant has some issues near the base of its stem, I noticed it before I did the LST and now I’m wondering if I should have addressed that issue before starting the LST. Let me know what you guys think! Dec 2: Walked into the room and noticed a faint smell, wasn’t any smell last night when I started the LST on the slower girl. Further inspection showed some white pistols on the bigger girl, I believe she is the culprit for the smell as the other seems about a week behind. They are both now LST‘d and leaf tucked. Enjoy the pics and vid’s! Dec 6: I have tied down some of the longer chutes on the bigger plant (will see in week 5 update) to create more airflow and light penetration as I didn’t even realize how bushy the stem and node sections had gotten. I have also cut the chutes coming off the first true leaf. I don’t think I will make any cuts to the smaller one as it’s already a slower growing pheno. Going on a trip starting the end of week secede to late week 8, so I have a automatic feeder coming from Amazon, and I will continue using it through flower to reduce open tent time.
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@GeminiCQC
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Can't wait for each of them to finish out. Giving them hopefully their full amount of water, less with the auto as it was stunted by the 12/12.
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3/6/2023 - Day 8 Flower: Not a lot to report. The girls are definitely stretching. Grew about 10 inches in the last week. Did a light foliar today with some Pure Protein Dry. Figured with the significant growth they could use a little extra nitrogen. Even with the recent stretch, I've been real pleased with the node spacing. Looking like they are going to stack real nice. They a drinking much faster now too. They will need to be watered again tomorrow, so they are drinking about 8 gallons a week. Other than some very minimal tip yellowing of a few leaves, thay look healthy as can be. 3/7/2023 - Day 9: watered with 4 gallons of 6.5 ph water. Added Jay Plantspeaker Quillaja as a wetting agent, then added Rootwise Enzyme Elixer, and Bio-Phos, BuildASoil Big 6, BuildABloom, Coconut Powder, Fermented Comfrey and Fermented Peach. I skipped the Pure Protein Dry this time, since I just foliar fed them with it yesterday. 3/9/2023 - Day 11: Added the second layer of trellis netting. I may need to lower it, but I want to wait and see how much more they stretch. Otherwise, everything else looks great. 3/10/2023 - Day 12: lowered the trellis net today and lolipopped the girls. Also watered 6 gallons today, mixing in Jay Plantspeaker Quillaja as a wetting agent, then added TeaCo Super Tea Blend, Recharge, Rootwise Enzyme Elixer, BuildASoil Big 6, BuildABloom, Coconut Powder, Yah-Whey Thrive, and Pure Protein Dry. Today was the first sign of some preflower. 3/12/2023 - Day 14 Flower: the plants did not like something about the last watering. The newest growth is having some severe curling and I discoloring. I'm thinking it has to be either the TeaCo or Recharge, but I've never had problems with either of those before. They were the only thing different about my last watering. They will need to be watered again tomorrow, so I plan to ease up on the nutrients, and definitely will not be adding anymore TeaCo or Recharge. Hopefully they can grow out of this and it doesn't get worse!
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@MrRaid
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She had a simple life little lst but thats about it she looked small as a plant but ended up being my highest yeild plant over 100 grams dry flower had couple problems with me feeding to much but sorted out just fine overall its a nice plant to grow very quickly and easy just don't get carried away with food my experience less additives the better grow simple with autos from fastbuds especially 2 or 3 additives is plenty or your gonna run the risk of buring them 😤 grow for this plant was 10/10 hardly any effort needed 70 quick days
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Day in and exit fan 15 min off 15 min on Van is full on Night in and exit fan 30 min off 15 min on Van is full on 10 ML Rhizitonic 5 ML Humic 5 ML Cannazym 5 ML Cal Mag 3 Gr Grow @ 5 Liter Day 22 10 ML Rhizitonic 5 ML Humic 5 ML Cannazym 5 ML Cal Mag 3 Gr Grow @ 5 Liter Day 24 22 ML Rhizitonic 22 ML Humic 20 ML Cannazym 11 ML Cal Mag 7 Gr Grow @ 11 Litre Day 26
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Nearing the finish line with these. They just keep on bulking when you think they’re done! Sounds like one of them good problems to have, you know!
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As always it's just a pleasure to grow this sativa dominant strain which definitely reminds me of a great indica with her extremely fruity and tropical sweet terpenes, very happy to have her in my garden and to be able to smoke such a high quality strain once again, hope you guys have enjoyed as much as me!
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@Elk419
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Will be switching to late bloom protocol this week.
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Everyone is coming out gently. Needed to dig just a bit for some late ones, as I was suspecting, they were stocked under some lil pieces of wood that you can find in organic soils. Watering only once again, after 7 days since last watering, with some more RootBooster. Needing about 60 to 100 ml of water for each cup, till the drain comes out. Seedlings are about 30cm from the neon tubes, under a light airflow to avoid any looney growth. All the conditions are perfect and under control, technically it’s a nice spring weather in the room.