The Grow Awards 2026 ๐Ÿ†
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. ๐Ÿค” was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2โ€“3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they arenโ€™t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air รท water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75ยฐF could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 รท 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
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September 25, 2021 Tons of growth this week. Its fun looking back at the pictures from a week ago compared to today, what a good week for these girls! They tripped in size in just a few days. The main stem on both plants is thick and strong. And I'm seeing significant signs of pre-flowering, especially with the Dinafem Critical+. That's super fast IMO. 4 weeks from seed to the start of flowering, 3 weeks from seedling. ๐Ÿ‘Š Fast Buds Blackberry is shorter but much stockier, with nice fat leaves. Definitely indica dominant. She hasn't started showing any purple yet, but that should start to develop in the flowering phase. I'm starting to see some pistols develop, but not as many as the Critical+. Its going to be exciting to watch both of these ladies through the flowering process. The Coast of Maine Stonington Blend is treating the girls very well, I'm very happy with the results so far. It is a little hot, I do see slight signs of nutrient burn on some leaf tips and also notice what looks like nitrogen toxicity on the tops. Nothing major, but it shows me there is still plenty of nutrition available in the soil. So far, this has been a water only grow, with a little Recharge once in a while. If they do start showing signs of nutrient deficiencies I'll start feeding them, but I'm very curious if they can make it from seed to harvest with only the nutrients available in the soil. Catch you next week!
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Flowering day 44 since time change to 12 / 12 h Hey guys :-) The buds are becoming incredibly beautiful and smelling better and better โ˜บ๏ธ. Today there was again the full load of food and will be slowly driven down as soon as it comes to an end :-) Was watered 3 times a week with 1.2 l each (nutrients see table above) Otherwise everything was cleaned. Have fun and stay healthy ๐Ÿ’š๐Ÿ’š๐Ÿ’š ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ You can buy this strain at : https://www.exoticseed.eu/de/hanfsamen/lemon-candy Water ๐Ÿ’ง ๐Ÿ’ง๐Ÿ’ง Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 - 6.5 MadeInGermany
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Been feeding the nectar for the gods sample pack. Plus impello biologics inoculant. Experimenting with lst. Hasn't been topped or defoliated at all. Just tying down and tucking leaves. I cut my pot as well to allow more lower air circulation. There are 9 visible "tops" at the top of the canopy. And a couple more that are underneath. Day 32 and everything is looking good to me.
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Week 14, week 4 of flowering, Looking at the Buds and telling myself they still have a full month left to get fatter and fatter and fatter ... ๐Ÿ˜„ Lemon Cream Kush ... look at it, big massive donkey dicks buds. Hopefully they finished their stretch by growing 3 x times in size and not more. This plant is perfect to fill up a ScrOG very quickly. Bubblegum, compact structure with vey dense and big buds, the pictures talk by themselves. Stretch controllable, doesnโ€™t goes higher than the common 2 x in size ๐Ÿ‘ Moon Walker Kush, is a proper Kush, Indica phenotype, stays short 1.8 x in size, with compact and dense colas. Perfect for growing Indoor in a tent. Strawberry is a very delicate Sativa, must be fed correctly. Fast flowering Sativa, proper Sativa leaves and structure with the size and a flowering period typical to Indicaโ€™s. Switching nutrients Bio 8-2-2 for the Alga-Max. Reaching maximum feeding solution, plants and buds development are doing very well as you can see by the pictures and the video. Growing my shitty ones in the middle, not feeding them since the beginning when the EC of the soil was too high for them, now going into some deficiency as shown in the pictures. Itโ€™s always good to keep the shitty plants for your experiments ๐Ÿ˜‰ Stay tuned folks, we might catch Tarzan or Moogly on camera next week... we never know ๐Ÿคฃ (Iโ€™m looking for a job in the Cannabis industry as Master Grower, Mineralogist, Quality Control)
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@zspl0it
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Tried some lst to get the plants more in the middle. Since this is my first grow I wasn't really sure what I'm doing. Growth seemed to be good in that week. Also added the second Bio Tab Tablet
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@Papablob
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14/05 elle dรฉmarre bien, peut-รชtre un peu basse de la feuille.๐Ÿ˜
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This week went great again. They are getting heavy now and packing on the crystal. They smell soooo fckin good!
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The best taste under the sun, great color of buds, unforgettable gorillas for me;) After quite a long fight with high temperatures and lack of support in the form of boosters, I am happy with the final result.
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FASTBERRY 35 Days from sprout. Light training. Leaf tucking, pony tailing and some bend and secure. Pony tailing seems to help with the side branching. Which will be useful as she seems to be on the smaller side. Possibly due to lower RH early on. Otherwise she seems to be doing ok. Attempted a layer of clay pellets after soaking in PH'd water for 16 hours, to combat the gnats from reaching the soil. I feel like sand may have been a better choice and removed the clay before feeding again. There are so few gnats that its not much of an issue, but I'd like to eliminate the threat before flowering really kicks in.
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***day 8 (17/11) - mix nourish nutes 5ml (4-0-1) with 500ml of ph balance water. ***day 9 (18/11) ^^DAY^^ temp 28'c-29'c hd 50-55% ^^night^^ temp 25'c-28'c hd 55-65% -thats basically my daily temp and hd..did nothing today...soil is still damp from yesterday watering. second set of true leave starting to be more obvious. **day 10 (19/11) -mixing and water it 500ml of ph 6.5 water with 5ml noursh and 2.5ml growth. Bought a new fan..now Temp and HD are more stable..temp around 25-26'C, HD around 60-65% **day 11 (20/11) -raise the led to 60cm from plant because i think it looks overheat. and also might over water it..will stop watering til its dry. **day 12 (21/11). -3 leave are getting obvious.this morning check temp are perfect 27'C...humidity is 66%..kinda improve because one of the two fan is broken...but temp are still manageable. after increasing led height, leaf color improve a bit. today I increase it again to 70cm.. growth are still slow for me. **day 13 (22/11) -grew a bit..today my humidifier came..so i diy an icevream box for the humidifier reservoir. TEMP tonight 27'C, HUMI 65%. **day 14 (23/11) -last day of second week. 2ND set of tru leave are becoming more bigger and the 3rd set starting to see.
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Timing seems about right. The current flowering plants are finishing so these will be in flower within two weeks. From all that I've learned this grow (being my first DWC), I plan on carrying on with a combination of organics and synthetics. Along with GHE products below, I'll be using the organics right along side. Mainly for the microbes and fungi. I plan on keeping my water about 1-2" below the basket with heavier pumps. Will be using the EcoPlus Eco Air 4 Four Outlet air pump divided into 2 buckets/2 air stones and using the 2 Marina 200 Air pumps for clones. That will more than double the airflow to the roots. When I change the res and even when I transfer over to the larger flower DWC bucket (3 gal - 5 gal) I'll be keeping a litre of the veg solution to add to the fresh new res, thus 'inoculating' it with the already stable microbial and fungal environment that it's been used to. As well, I'll continue with Hygrozyme on a 'maintenance' dosage when changing the res and adding a liter of the microbial and fungal tea listed below as well as a dose of Tarantula from Advanced Nutrients. Adding organic Alaskan veg and bloom fertilizer (some 'Fulvic acid' as well, like seaweed liquid. Plants uptake Fulvic better than Humic. Root fungi eat the Humic and poop out Fulvic!) in 'moderation' to help bring PH back down and feed microbes and fungi. Once the plants start really stacking, I'll add more synthetics to compensate and to lower PH. The organics can really mess with the EC so I'm not going to be freaking about high levels. Found that it didn't effect the plants health that much if at all. Dinamed Plus from Dinafem Seeds (1) and Blueberry Headband (1)from Humboldt Seeds. https://www.dinafem.org/en/dinamed-cbd-plus/ https://www.humboldtseeds.net/en/blueberry-headband/ Lighting https://www.horticulturelightinggroup.ca/products/260w-qb-v2-led-kit DWC Nutients https://generalhydroponics.com/floraseries FloraGro 1 ml/l FloraBloom .5 ml/l FloraMicro 1 ml/l Diamond Nectar: N/A https://generalhydroponics.com/diamond-nectar Cal Mag: 2 ml/l https://generalhydroponics.com/calimagic SuperThrive: .5 ml/l https://superthrive.com/ https://hylineproducts.com/products/hygrozyme/#one Grozyme: 2.5 ml/ltr Tarantula https://www.advancednutrients.com/products/tarantula/ Epsom salts Root Rot Tea 8 liters RO water 5 ml (1 tsp) organic sulphur free molasses 5 ml Alaskan Organic grow fertilizer (or something comparable) 5 ml Alaskan bloom fertilizer (or something comparable) 5 ml Seaweed or kelp fertilizer Handful of composted horse pucky Worm castings, sea soil, Gaia General Purpose and Bat Guano Phosphate optional * add after brewing 2-4 ml Advanced Nutrients Tarantula
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@greenAF
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Lights 40% Feed Listed above then PH/EC adjusted D7 So the girls looks healthy they should blow up after the next feeding. Should be able to shed it's travel scars soon. D11 getting stronger and stronger ๐Ÿ’ช
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@BioBuds
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Yesterday I discovered that, in order to change my timer, I didn't put the clock back onto it. Now they had 3 hours more light on the third day of flowering. Exactly the kind of oopsies this grow really doesn't need. But it happened and all back on a normal schedule, but I hope the OHS en GG4 aren't affected by it too much... One accidental re-vegging is more than enough for a year. Also, these sensitive strains can hermie on me for lesser reasons so from now on I'll be checking for male signs daily. The XTraKush is performing as advertised, with enormous stretch, these plants can go 10 ft up according to the breeder. So I'm tying them down and managing this to fill out the space. With all the stuff going on, this 'underdog' strain might even prove most resilient, when all is said and done. They seem to respond really well to the SP-3000 light and If you are in the market for a new light, consider this option from Mars Hydro. Thank you @MarsHydroLED for letting me try it, it is a dream of a light. I compared it to my old light again and PAR values are not even in the same ballpark. Thank you for checking my diary and taking the time to read my adventures! Hug Bud
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@Cruzsider
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Well I think I could have gone another 2 to 3 weeks but I'm happy and need to move on to the next relm of life. I'll be back at the end of the week with total weights for everything once curred. Thank you for for you interest and likes ๐Ÿ‘
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Flowering day 57 since time change to 12/12 h. Hey guys :-) The lady is slowly coming to an end ๐Ÿ˜. The buds start to swell extremely . The trichomes mature day by day. This week she was given a very light flush with Clean Fruits so that she can use up her remaining nutrients in the coming days ๐Ÿ‘. It will be harvested in the next 10-14 days ๐Ÿ˜. I can't wait to try them all :-) . Otherwise everything was cleaned and checked. Have fun and stay healthy ๐Ÿ’š๐Ÿ™๐Ÿป ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘‡๐Ÿผ You can buy this strain at : https://www.exoticseed.eu/ Water ๐Ÿ’ง ๐Ÿ’ง๐Ÿ’ง Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 - 6.5 MadeInGermany
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Bien pues ya tenemos en marcha el 2ยบ seguimiento del perfil... Son 6 white truffles, 6 Apple&Bazzokies de GBSTRAINS y 5 GG4 de GBSEEDS que se empezaron a germinar el 15 de mayo por la tarde sobre las 19:00 Todas nutridas con BOOM nutrients jejeje Todas las semanas iremos viendo los cambios y la evoluciรณn, los riegos y las flores que vendrรกn :) El 16 de mayo del 23 sobre las 07:00 de la maรฑana pase las semillas del vaso con agua, a los tapers con servilleta. Ahรญ estuvieron 24 horas mas haciendo un total de 36 horas germinando para despuรฉs, pasarlas a las macetas de 1 litro. 22/05/23 actualizado, meto unas fotos mas de como van las semillas despuรฉs de 7 dรญas desde que se empezaron a germinar en el vaso de agua. A dรญa 22/05/23 llevamos 7 dรญas desde que se empezaron a germinar. ACTUALIZACION DE ESTADO: 30/05/23 Subo unas fotos despuรฉs de 8 dรญas. Llevamos 15 dรญas desde que se empezรณ a germinar las semillas en vaso de agua. A partir de aquรญ, empiezo a contar semanas de crecimiento. Trasplantaremos a maceta definitivas de 7L dentro de una semana o 2.
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Almost skipped a week. So this is the 4th week of 12/12 lighting. Not much to see, alot of stretch and building is bud sites. You can find my YouTube channel at "Ben Chasin' Big Budz"... Thanks for stopping by.
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Amazing cozy strain, shame I can't find it anymore. I liked it a lot really!