The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
Likes
Comments
Share
Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
Likes
4
Share
31.3 F50 2L of water for each plant. Last two weeks of flowering starting, happy happy :) 3.4 F53 1L of water for each plant, seems like the plants are starting to drink less and less. Which is totally okay by me, no need for water every 2 days. Other than that I lowered lights like 5cm since there isn't that much flowering time left, might as well "blast" em with the whole 70 watts lol. 5.4 F55 Lots of small creepy crawlers in the pots. Took a video of predator mite strolling around the fabric pot!
Likes
2
Share
Likes
63
Share
@Ferenc
Follow
Day 106, 17th of November 2020: We need to say goodbye to her very soon. The judgement is harvest. Time has come and she is old enough to be cut. I have checked trichomes all good some days darkness and no more water also and she will be just outside on the table for some days. Really nice little plant not strong smell. I really wanna try the smoke the ratio 1:1 CBD:THC and only 7.5% CBD and 7.5% THC haha :)
Likes
11
Share
Starting to get heavy in here. Starting to fatten up like crazy putting on some more colors. They all have their own sweet smell with something in background but way sweet. Just doing build a bloom and molasses 1 time this week mollases is almost every watering. Just popping off leafs when dead and make sure Noone falls over lol.
Likes
13
Share
@Drawer
Follow
The plant is doing fine, the light has been a bit to close to some buds so light bleaching appeared (Light is raised) Getting close to harvest and the plant smells really sour and citrussy, its amazing.
Processing
Likes
3
Share
Tried not to mess with them too much this week. Less stress for everyone!
Likes
4
Share
05/01/2025 Starting to stretch and put on buds. Looking health nothing else to do but let it grow
Likes
10
Share
@Kali_DC
Follow
calmag deficiency second week of flowering. Foliar sprayed for a couple days, flushed reservoir and add new nutrients with calmag
Likes
4
Share
Finally decent temperatures and we can start the flower! They recovered well from the temperature shock and show some growth. They got a massive haircut and trained. Now they can enter flower stage. Each plant got 50 g of Wizzy's Flower 6-8-10 organic fertilizer, 3 g / 10 L of Plant Booster and 1g / Liter Weedtamines. A few days ago. Tomorrow they'll get their dose of Pflanzengeflüster (Plant Whisper) to increase flower production.
Likes
2
Share
Buenas a tod@s... Otra semanita de floración para estas hermosas.... Han crecido bastante, las veo muy bien, riengo generalmente cada 2 días, el pH perfecto, absorben muy bien los nutrientes, el sustrato muy bien desde q lo eh cambiado este cultivo... Esty muy contento y el resultado va tomando forma, trabajando duro se obtienen buenos resultados a la larga, hay algunos fallos para mejorar pero de momento las niñas están bien y van creciendo y engordando favorablemente... Me gustaría tener más espacio y más material tecnológico para el cultivo, pero de momento es lo q hay y nos apañamos bien... Buenos humos para todos 🏻💨💨 😎💀 🇦🇷🤝🏻🇪🇦
Likes
6
Share
@russrahl
Follow
What’s up fellow Growmies! Got another exciting strain from Canuk Seeds... Cement Shoes! Yep, gonna be sleeping with the fishes. Lol First time trying this strain but so far it’s been a breeze. I kinda took a break from documenting my grows because life got a bit hectic for a bit their, but I’m back and got some more great strains lined up for the future. Gonna try and do an outdoor RDWC setup this summer so stay tuned, gonna be some monsters hopefully! I’ve never seen it done really and I have a few ideas...lol but anyway, back the the cement shoes. So I started them awhile back(not exactly sure when) in my smaller tent(3x4) under a single 1200w King LED grow light. They spent about 2 months in this tent in 3 gal DWC buckets until they outgrew the buckets and tent and need to be moved. Up until this point they were kinda just on auto pilot in the background of my other larger tents. But I was planning on reducing my plant count in my larger 4x8 tents so I decided to go from 4 plants per tent to 2 plants per tent, so we needed some big girls to fill these tents. Lol they were topped at 3-4th node and just let them go from there. They ended up being about 3 feet tall above the 1ft tall buckets. Moved them over too one of my bigger 4x8 tents and added a screen very carefully and ScrOG’d them out. Still waiting on my new Eye HPS Bulb so they are still currently under my 1000w MH. I’ll post all the pics I can find in this weeks log from the veg time and they are about 2 weeks into flower now so I’ll snap some flower pics soon and continue from there. So far 2 plants vegged a bit longer are filling the shoes of 4 plants no problem. Having more space means I also have not had to really defoliate at all. Well that’s it so far, stay tuned for more! Cheers 💨
Likes
2
Share
@fabialien
Follow
Semana sel 2 de septiembre al 8 de septiembre 8 de septiembre, fotos del dia Jueves 5 de septiembre 2024. Se regaron con Floralicius plus adicionado con Hidrol-pez + vitaminas.
Likes
7
Share
@Kevs_Best
Follow
DE Der erste Last Dance-Phänotyp zeigt in der ersten Blütewoche einen sehr starken Stretch und wächst unglaublich buschig. Die Blattfarbe ist sattgrün und sehr vital, was auf eine gesunde Nährstoffaufnahme und Wurzelaktivität hindeutet. Schon jetzt lassen sich erste zarte Duftnoten erkennen, was auf einen aromatischen Start der Blüte hindeutet. Der zweite Phänotyp bleibt etwas kompakter, zeigt aber ebenfalls kräftigen Stretch und eine schöne, dichte Blattstruktur. Auch hier sind die Blätter gesund, und die Pflanze entwickelt sich stabil und vital. Insgesamt ein vielversprechender Start in die Blüte – beide Pflanzen machen einen dynamischen, gesunden Eindruck und entwickeln sich erwartungsgemäß sehr gut. EN The first Last Dance phenotype shows strong stretch in the first week of flowering and is growing very bushy. The leaf color is lush green and very healthy, indicating good nutrient uptake and root activity. Even at this early stage, subtle fragrance notes are detectable, hinting at an aromatic start to flowering. The second phenotype remains slightly more compact but also shows vigorous stretch and a dense leaf structure. Its leaves are healthy, and the plant is developing steadily and vitally. Overall, a very promising start to flowering – both plants look dynamic, healthy, and are developing as expected.
Likes
14
Share
@AndrewC
Follow
So this is the Tear Down week. The timing of it makes it so i will need to the harvest flag in a few days when I can weight and test the plants. I have included the Cleaning, and Cutting and some Root Porn. I will make the harvest post in about 4-5 days, when I can trim these plants. There is a lot of Plant here. I got way more than I was expecting. I don't have a scale that measure this amount of plant, without taking like 10 measurements and then adding them together. So I will just be posting the dry weight. I will post the wet weight as dry weight * 1.65. Autopots: Wow, what a great product. I have been blown away by how well and how easy it was to work with them. They really did solve the watering issues. Excellent product. If you are a beginner, start with Autopots. -= Lessons Learnt =- - Overdrive the air to your Autopots. In my control plant, I used a small rectangle air stone (instead of a standard air dome). This lead to root rot and some other issues, it also put significantly less air into the water. The root rot, give the material for the Brown Algae to grow. Using a huge Air-disc-Air-Stone would be an excellent combo to mix in with the air dome itself. Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Pawfly-Diffuser-Suction-Hydroponics-Aquarium/dp/B01MY3AQ33 at the bottom and the air-dome on top of it, will be what I do with my next experiment. - Air stone in the reservoir. I had two instances where algae grew into the res. An air stone would have helped. It would have also helped my control plant get less root rot. Given the amount that the air-domes and air sources got engulfed, having the water have more o2 in it would have only been beneficial. - Don't grow 6 plants in a 4x4. Since my control plant was about 1/8th the size of the others, I think I could have grown 5 in the shape of a 5 (on a 6 sided dice)⚄ This placement would give a much more spaced canopy for airflow and more importantly light. The sides of some of the plants were lighter green and produced larf due to lack of light penetration. - This tent was on 19-5 schedule. This worked out very well for this strain. After every lights on, they were in the praying position, so this strain was able to recover in that 5hrs off. If I had more seeds, I would run these again, and try 20-4. I think this strain could handle it. All for all, I think I'm going to 19-5 as my default timing. This kept up a solid DLI. - Staring at .9EC (really .7 EC cause my water here is .2 EC) Then bumping up at .1 a week, until 1.6EC worked out VERY well. I experimented on this crop all the way up to 1.9EC, which burnt the tips of this plant. I think if I did this strain again, I would do 1.6EC until 3-4 weeks left then crank it to 1.9. It did plump them up when I went to 1.9, however it left them looking rough. Bulk was added though. - Sticking to 6.0PH for all of veg, and 2 weeks into flower worked great. The plant had solid and consistent color and leaf shape . The plant's did get hurt, due to some issues (as noted on the weeks). I switched to 6.5 PH in the last 3-4 weeks and it helped them recover, and plump up noticeably. -VPD. The #1 thing I focused on was VPD. I keep it .9kpa range, as best as humanly possible. It was honestly, HUGELY noticeable compared to my other grows. I know truly understand the value of properly dialed in VPD. This is the one lesson that will stick with me forever. - Super-cropping: On the plants I give the chiropractic treatment too, had much thicker stems as much larger channel internally. I did this treatment to 4 of the 6, and the 4 that had it done has larger buds and recovered from defoliation faster. TLDR; VPD is king. Super-cropping is worth the time. Keeping PH and EC dialed in were all wins. Autopots kick ass.
Likes
19
Share
It's been a wonderful week despite a handful of deficiencies mainly affecting the UKBS varieties. UKBS 2 seems to be getting hit with a phosphorus deficiency; which fingers crossed will be solved next watering. UKBS 2 had some PH issues which led to multiple deficiencies, those seem to have been remedied at this time as no further symptoms are appearing. I really want the weather to get nice already, the tent is turning into an absolute jungle and I need to clear some space. I'm quite glad I've never tried to flower 4 plants in a 2x4. 4/3/2021- Did some bending and twisting, as well as a bit of defoliation with UKBS 2, to make it branch outwards slightly as well as lighten up on how much shade it's creating in the tent. 4/5/2021 - Some kind of cal/mag issues are cropping up on UKBS 1 and Carl 1, looking to resolve those ASAP.