The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
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@Northfork
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The gorilla szittles from Barneys seeds, started out, growing very well, and did not stop. I had no problems throughout the entire grow. It has yielded over 4 pounds of marijuana. All of the bulbs are very very dense sticky, and have a great aroma of fruity grapefruit
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Week 1 Veg - 10/01* Currently CHERRY COLA is coming alone accordingly, first set of leaves have already sprouted and will be giving her small amounts of Nitrogen in about a week.
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Que pasa familia, vamos con la cosecha de estas Gorilla cookies Auto de FastBuds. Por dónde empezar, es una autofloreciente que es muy fácil de cultivar, tiene un periodo corto de crecimiento y de floración igual no es largo. En cuanto a la alimentación , pues la aplique una vez por semana y a sido suficiente, se a comportado muy bien en interior, la flor pues no es muy prieta porque no deja de ser una autofloreciente, pero es una flor que está bien explotada y que va repleta de tricomas. El periodo de luz pues de principio a fin a 18 horas, fue sucficiente para completar el ciclo de vida como esperaba. Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨
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💩Holy Crap💩 That was so much fun , it's full on winter where I am and it kept me busy , and come on there's nothing like growing your own stuff. I had a blast as it's been at least over 10 years since my last indoor grow , and it was fun , I had used all of my old techniques and equipment and it worked out just fine , so I was glad I had a ruff idea of what to expect...... Final thoughts Gonna be honest about that grow , it should me just how far Genetics have come, 10 plus years ago before I stopped growing indoors , all we had was like lowrider auto and greenomatic auto and maybe few others but they were horrible...... but this auto produced quite well as expected it should with the size of my medium and my soil base and very little nutrients, which is what I had hoped for from the start , cause I didn't really know where to start in terms of Genetics as I have been out the game for awhile but I'm super glad with the results and some gratitude needs to be sent to CanukSeeds , they came through as it always starts and ends with elite Genetics👌 ........... I can't wait to start my next grow diary, so keep an eye out , there's gonna be more to come , I'm going to try some really interesting cultivars........ PS. Can anyone tell me this , back in the day like 2003-4-5-6 wasn't growdiaries.com just a private forum cause if memory serves me , I was among those lucky enough to find a community that did complete grow logs, fourm style, which is where I found my growmie and Mentor Franco Loga from Greenhouse seeds , RIP BUDDY 😃 CANT WAIT TO START MY NEXT GROW 👉I HAVE CREATED A PLACE FOR GROWMIES TO VISIT , SHOW OFF THERE GROWS , AND JUST HANG OUT .....👈 👉ALL YOU NEED IS TO JOIN THE GROWDIARIES DISCORD SERVER !!!!!!!!!!!👈 LINK IS 👉 https://discord.gg/zQmTHkbejs
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Zu letzter Woche hat sich nicht viel geändert außer dass sie noch doller riechen und ihre Buds immer dicker werden 🌿😋🍇 Die Trichome einer Pflanze sind schon sehr bernstein farbend 🍯
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they grow very fast this weeks no problem at all whit the Remo nutrients theys drink 12 liters a week crazy the last watering of the week 3 liters each i give them 9ml mix whit 4 liter of waterthe week 4 is going to be 10 ml mix whit 4 liters of water hi give for 7 plants 72 liters this weeks
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Feb 8th Starting to learn how to grow with the new system I have had a couple of learnings so far 1 The PH level is getting to high by the time it’s in the autopot from the res being keep below 6.0 I try to keep the PH in the res around 5.7 By the time it’s in the plant trays it is testing to be around 6.5 and above. So I’m trying to work that out Also started LST this week
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@EelGrows
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Week 10: This will be the final update before Harvest: I will update post harvest after the dry and weigh. Day 64-66: Hmm these 4AM are a strange bunch lol. I seemed to have been wrong about 4AM#3 getting better in last week's update, after reviewing the pictures. After realizing this I decided to continue feeding the plants till the end albeit only Calmg and Boost(micro). I decided to give 4AM#3 a 125% dose of Calmg on Day 66. I was worried about root rot because even though she was a bigger plant she drank noticeably less water than the rest. I actually forgot to mention I have had a few fungus gnats during the grow starting at around day 35. I always let the plants completely dry out even until some leaves were really drooping from thirst, so I though I had them under control. I never noticed more than 1 or 2 at a time, which is also why I thought I had it out of control. Maybe they have something to do with 4AM#3's state, but I doubt it. Anyway, 4AM#1 and #2 are doing well. #1 has fully ripened with almost 95% cloudy trichomes, and some amber. #2 on the other hand could still use 7-10 days extra, but regretfully I cannot harvest then... #3 is at about the same stage as #2. Day 67-70: Sadly I noticed too late, but that extra strong dose of Calmg seemed to confirm my suspisions... 4AM#3 had a heavy calmg deficiency... It really is noticeably improving this time! Leaves are regaining some slight saturation! And she drank her water very quickly this time! So bummed about having to harvest this weekend... Day 73... Oh well next time I will be able to harvest more freely and at different times for each plant if needed. She still has a good bit of cloudy trichomes on her calyxes though, around 40-60%, and very very few ambers, but her sugar leaves are already full of them. As for 4AM#1, looking great! gona be the smallest buds but definately the most dank! 4#2's massive buds are still having trouble staying upright, but looking forward to those for sure! RED ALERT: Shiiiit... So as I was watering 4AM#3 on day 69, I noticed, what I'm pretty sure is, BUD ROT! Damn, I'll have a picture as part of this update. I had very bad experience with bud rot last fall(planted my autos too late in the summer, lost over half my plants and had to harvest early), but that was with 10C temps and 80%+ RH. I have FOUR fucking fans in this damn tent, and it's always over 20C! But I'll be honest, I knew if it was going to happen, it would be THAT part of the plant positioned closest to that oscillating fan I have on the peace of wood... The bud closest to it(in the corner) is in it's blind spot, doesn't get direct breeze on it. And that's the bud, and the ONLY bud that seems to have been affected. Strangely though, this bud rot feels different to the touch than the one I had last summer. Very dry, and like I said, very isolated to that ONE little part. I cut it out and have the rest of the bud drying as a tester in my room. And my entire room STINKS. I seemed to have been wrong about that last week also; The 4AM smells so much stronger than the White Cracks. See you after the Harvest!! ;) It's been awesome and a fun learning experience!
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@tangie
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She doesn't fit in the box lol, will use ScrOG to restrain her vertically. Streeeeettttchyyyyyyy! Accidentally snapped off a funky 10-bladed fan.
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@Hawkbo
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Day late on the update, pics/vids were taken on time tho just been a crazy week of harvests and trimming and keeping up with these. I transplanted all of them into 1 gallon bags 4 days ago from today. I linked up with Rain Science Grow Bags on Instagram and got them to offer all my followers and friends a discount of 10% off entire order from their site with the code ' bangdang ' so if anyone is in the market for a pot upgrade use that code. I got them in the mail 3 days after I ordered. Reason I went with Rain Science is because they offer identical air flow for rapid growth as the radicle bags, just using a different material and a tighter knit so water doesnt flood out the sides during feeds and when you pick these up when the coco is dry, it wont fly all over the tent like with the radicles. They're the optimal bag for autoflowers especially. These will get transplanted to the 3 gals before the flip and the flower tent is clearing out now. Just have to do a heavy cleanup and rearrange some shit and in they go.
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Día 36. Al final me pude desahcer de la plaga de mosquitas. Usé Phitonat plus foliar y puse BTI en el depósito. Fue casi instantáneo con ambas cosas. Las plantas estan empezando a engordar bastante. Se las vé muy bien. Las de variedad Polaris están haciendo cogollos densos y grandes. Mientras que las Tropicana estan con flores pequeñas más distribuidas en la rama. Creo que la Polaris va a dar la sorpresa. La semana pasada decidí no usar EMRO y cuando cambié el depósito, había bastantes restos de raices que van cayendo. Así que volví a poner, pars convertir esas raices en azucar para las plantas. Cada cez falta menos y tengo incertidumbre sobre lo que va a pasar. La Polaris tiene una floración levemente más corta en teoría. Así que es probable que las Tropicana se coman 2 semanas de lavado de raíces cuando toque.
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@Tonks
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Steady growth this week :) Noticed a funky split branch that looks kinda like it topped itself, though that was pretty cool! Been trying to keep the lower part of the plant clean but since I have space I'm not being too brutal with chopping lower bud sites. The HPS gives good penetration and I'm keen to see if I can maximise the yields - not sure this craziness is the best way to achieve that but gosh darnit I'm gonna do my best
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Partially drained the tank at the start of the week and topped up with ro water and 1ml of final solution per Litre. Last 2.5 days were in darkness. I trimmed the majority of fan leaves before hanging up to dry in the tent today. Started out trimming with the plants in the tent and soon realised it would be much easier to just cut them down whole, hang them upside down outside the tent and trim them up a bit. I have a small dehumidifier and a small fan heater setup in the tent and they have been keeping a humidity level of about 60% and a temp of 16 Celsius for the last few days while the lights have been off. I figure that's a good starting point for drying and I can increase the temperature if needed, that will drop the humidity also. Intake fan at the bottom and extract fan at the top are running constantly as they have been since the grow started (low power 4" fans). I might add back in a fan for circulation depending on how the drying goes, or maybe even trim or hang the plants better to get more airflow around the buds
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Ya paso a la tercera semana de floración, todo va bien hasta el momento, fertilice 2 veces seguida y solo 1 vez con agua esta semana, senti visualmente que le faltaba nutrientes y aun siento que le faltan 😂 saludos!
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This week is great the smaller one is growing. They both self topped and have branches going everywhere! I'm using lst clips to help direct them. Video will be added. Did use some soul nutrients as a booster to the dots.
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@bubatz420
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Mein erster versuch main-lining anzuwenden 😊 Lemon Cherry Gelatos haben mittlerweile 8 headbuds pro plant Denke mal werde sie noch einmal toppen um 16 headbuds zu erhalten