The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
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@Rangaku
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Settling in after transplanting loooking lush green and healthy maybe another two weeks of veg
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2018-03-13 Week 11 Day 1 As I mentioned last week, the girls are growing like crazy since I changed to 600W HPS,and even though they haven't grown so much higher, they are definetly wider because of LST. My growroom is only about 1.8m2, so now the girls are so wide that there's not enough space for them to get wider, so now I will let them stretch. Nr 1 is 43 cm Nr 2 is 44 cm 2018-03-14 Day 2 I LST'd the girls one last time and also defoliated them mildly so all the tops get as much light as possible, hopefully increasing the yield in the end. I also turn the girls 1/4 lap every day to ensure that all sides of them get as much exposure to light as possible, it would've been great to have some kind of turntable that turns the girls 1 lap in 12 hours,, but until I find out a device that does just that,I'll keep on doing it manually. Added some videos for you to enjoy. 2018-03-18 Day 6 Watering the girls with 2l of plain water (pH 5.8), the soil were dry after 3 days since they got water and nutes. I want to release the remaining dry nutes buried in the soil. Some of the girls got burnt leaves but not from nutes, but from the hps-lamp, they've stretched so much so I raised the lamp about 10 cm, but now I'll keep an eye on the distance between the lamp and canopy, don't want them to get burnt again. But lucky me, only leaves got burnt - no top got harmed 👍 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Strain information: The word synergy is a business term first quoted in the early eighties to describe mutual enhancement through interaction or cooperation, where the end result gained is greater than the sum of the parts used. What do synergy and the Crazy Cookies cannabis strain have to do with each other you may well ask? The parents of the forthrightly indica Crazy Cookies are marijuana royalty. OG Kush and Girl Scout Cookies. These strains of contemporary legend have been combined to cerebrum shattering effect. The cured flowers deliver a mouth-watering and couchlocking 24% THC. The initial delectable spacey upbeat onrush compliments of the Durban Poison coursing through the genes of the Cookies soon becomes a lush and rich, inescapably delicious body flux. There should be a picture of a Crazy Cookie nugget in the dictionary next to the word synergy. Crossing the OG back into the Cookies has amplified the psychoactive effects of the notorious lineage of both parents. This is an indica with a capital I. As a breeder it would be fair to assume that injecting more OG into the Cookies would result in an OG-dominant Cookie, or even close to a pure OG, but something else has happened. Some long dormant genetic switch has been flipped and a standalone indica has emerged whose spicy notes and earthy tones, hints of grape and horny pheromone are an absolute pleasure. Paying this breed some careful attention as it grows will reward you substantially, indoors or out. Typical hybrid vigour is shown throughout each grow phase. Stout plants to 80cm can be expected indoors and muscular examples with fluted stalks growing to two metres can be easily achieved outdoors. Good bracing is necessary as the flowers mature. With more than 500g at harvest per robust plant, colas can easily snap and twist branches. -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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The two super-cropped plants healed up nicely and have grown more bushier in week 8. The top of the main-stem is showing sidewards now and the buds on it have turned upwards, towards the lights. The two SANlight EVO4-120 are dimmed to 100% and hang 30 cm above the top of the plants at this stage. My genetic gems LOVE the spectrum and intensity of these LED-fixtures and grow like hell under them, its amazing to see. The BIO-NOVA nutrients are still given at half strength from their recommended SOIL-CULTIVATION schedule and the plants have a nice healthy green color. Only the CHEESE-plant from BIG BUDDHA SEEDS starts to show some symptoms of overfeeding (gets rust brown spots and yellow leaf-tips). I will have to keep an eye on this plant. The amount of flower-crowns that are developing now is ASTOUNDING! In the close-up pics of the flower-crowns you can see, that the trichome production has started already! The plants start to smell more now and I can't wait for them to get the fruity aroma I expect.
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Das Umtopfen war erfolgreich und die Pflanzen wächst und wächst und wächst .... und das obwohl ich sie ein paar Tage nicht gießen konnte 👏
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8/14 Everything looked beautiful this morning. Seems like I've got the watering schedule down better. I do have one gmo that looks hungry so I need to increase nutes. At least on that plant. Toasted toffy has little spits that could be water marks, pests or septoria. I don't think it's septoria. In the pastvi lost far more leaves when I had septoria. I've been crazy busy. I'm surprised things are going this well. I need to put up the final supports so I can add to them once I've got big heavy buds. I was really stoked to see everything doing so well. The plant in the 50gallon is the furthest in flower. I'm so grateful to have the ability to grow high quality cannabis for myself amd my wife. There's nothing quite like it. That hash I made turned out great. I think I'll press it today. Supports will be done this week. Saw a few aphids on the plant I cut down. Earwigs aren't here this summer or there would be NO aphids. Plus when I cleaned out the insides this morning I found some dead leaves WAY in the middle by the stalk. They would've eaten that shit if they were here. Birds and other predators seem to be keeping pillars at bay. I'm not seeing the damage and when I do sfind one it's absolutely tiny like a newborn. I'll think about whether I need to spray BT. 8/15 That fucking cancel button always fucks everything out. I was done no I need to start over. Didn't water last night. Found pm on my gmo in the 30. Interior of the plant. Should've defoliated better and earlier. Oh well. I'll treat with k bicarb or plant doctor. I'll have to think about it. Other plants are looking good. Well they all are. I just hate pm. I can't isolate it due to local laws so it is what it is. Nothing I haven't dealt with before. Watered today. The middle gmo in the 30 got 1.5 gallons. The other plants each got a gallon. Including the one in the 10gal and 50 gal. Its supposed to rain but only like .1. I also chose to feed today. All plants got a gallon. I DID NOT WATER THE EVENT HORIZON IN THE MIDDLE AND THE SHERB PIE AS THEY WERE PRAYING AND HEAVY. I need to get these supports up. I'll update as I go. Oh and one thing I remembered is that, I didn't properly sanitize the trellis nets I installed on the plant that has pm (non visible today but still). I harvested the plant that used that bet last year was harvested in two stages. The bottom I let go way later and ended up with a little pm on the stuff I left for hash material and it got some pm. I wonder if that's whete this came from. 8/16 Death in the family this morning. I couldn't decide if I should use organocide plant doctor or not. It's a systemic It's been discontinued and reformulated. It's a systemic fungicide. Instead I mixed two tsp potassium bicarbonate with a little dawn in a half gallon mister. I used gloves and defoliated everything that had pm on it. I checked the plants next to it and luckily it hasn't spread yet....but it will. I feel safer using the k bicarb. I'll do more research and try to find the best way to tackle this. I don't want to get rid of the plant and due to local ordinance I can't isolate it. If I can keep it to this one plantvthat would be fine. I'd just use it for extracts. So glad I didn't use all that netting and put up tjosr supports. I'll need to disinfect them if I decide to use them. We'll see. Plants are coming right along flowering. WENT BACK OVER AND DEFOLIATED A BUNCH OF fan leaves and interior stuff to promote airflow. Still saw pm on that plant u had treated earlier with k bicarb. I can't isolate due to laws and I'm not willing to discard this massive monster cropped plant. So I'm going to treat it. I started by removing everything infected and improving airflow on that plant and all the others. I didn't make it to one event horizon. I plan to treat the infected plant with Organocide Plant Doctor since its what I have on hand and I've had good luck. It's a systemic. After I treat the one plant and see that it didn't hurt the plant I'll use a preventative dosage on the other plants. I've battled wpm several times. This is something I'm very familiar with. What sucks is it's totally my fault it happened due to grower error. This has set back me puttingvup my supports as well. Plants look good woth a haircut. Also the toasted toffy had some leaves removed with spots that looked like septoria. I think nutes havecreally kicked things in gear. Now there are little buds on plants. 8/17 BAGS still seemed heavy so I didn't water. It's been MUCH cooler. It's 63 at 9am. It would normally be 80 by now so maybe they aren't using as much water. I watered the the toasted toffy I missed last round but the Sherb Pie still had weight to it. I also watered the GMO on the far side and the one in the 30 as the seemed a little lighter. I looked in and I couldn't find a SPOT of powder mildew on the plant! I know it will come back but on this 100% rh day there isn't a spot I can find! I'm going to go check on them later today. Do some more defoliation and treat the plants with Plant Doctor to try to mitigate the spread of the P.M. Very suprised the k bicarb worked like that. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 11. I WATERED THE TWO THAT DIDNT GET WATERED LAST TIME. THE EVENT HORIZON AND THE SHERB PIE. IT WAS COLD AND OVERCAST. TEMPS HAVE BEEN MUCH COOLER. SOON AS I WATERED THE SUN CAME OHT AND THE TEMP WENT UP. I WENT THROUGH THE PLANTS I MISSED AND SEFOLIATED LEAVES AND INTERIOR BRANCHES TO INCREASE AIRFLOW. SURPRISED TO STILL SEE NO PM WITH 100% HUMIDITY. I WENT THROUGH EVERY PLANT. ILL NEED TO GO TJROUGH AGAIN BUT TJIS IS MUCH BETTER. THE TOASTED TOFFY THAT MAY HAVE SEPTORIA I WILL TREAT TONOGHT WITH PLANT DOCTOR. I REMOVED ANYTHING LOOKING INFECTED. I LSTed THE BIGGEST BRANCHES WITH CLIPS TO THE BAG AMD TWINE. SO AIRFLOW IS MUCH BETTER. I THEN REMOVED A BU CH OF THE MIDDLE. I COULD TAKE MORE BUT ON OUTDOOR HARVESTS THAT LITTLE STUFF GOES IN EXTRACTS. I PUT A FEW HOURS IN TODAY. IM GOING BACK AND ILL TEST THE PLANT DOCTOR ON THE TOASTED TOFFY. BUT IF THE K BICARB WORKS THIS GOOD ILL JUST KEEP USING THAT. 8/18 It started sprinkling when I left this morning. I did more defoliation on a few different plants. Including the healthiest GMO. It seems like things should be further in flower but it is what it is. I'm not doing clones again. Only reason I did is because I lost my 72 seedlings and depleted my seed supply. I hate treating pm. Lost Coast Plant Therapy I'd really whete its at when it comes to treating pm. I might just order that. My commercial buddy told me that he wouldn't use the plant doctor and not to "spray shot all over my plants". He's probably right. I see something small and try to overcurrent. I dont see any more septoria looking leaves on the toasted toffy since I lsted it and removed damaged leaves. I was going to use the fungicide plant doctor on that and then use it ad a preventative. He's probably right. I've put a lot of work in defoliation and such. It WILL spread but it hasn't yet. I removed what I saw. I was going to hit it again with k bicarb but it said it should be weekly treatments.i hope I'm doing things right. I shouldn't be this worried about pm but I've got am anxiety disorder. I'll fully sterilize (AGAIN) my posts and trellis netting before I instal it. I'll probably go check on them later. It's hard to avoid pm with 100% humidity and 30° temp swings. I've got a few lights so maybe this winter I'll do indoor. I'll try to keep this updated. LOOKING BACK AT PRIOR DIARIES I GUESS IM RIGHT WHERE I SHOULD BE FLOWERING WISE. I JUST HAD A COUPLE REALLY EARLY PHENOS A COUPLE TIMES. 8/19 Defoliated some more stuff amd tried to improve airflow. Humidity is high and it was sprinkling earlier. I think we'll have showers. Not seeing much pm. MAYBE a little in the middle of that middle gmo but it could just be residue. I'll treat it again with potassium bicarbonate soon. If that doesn't work I'll switch up treatments. I've got citric acid amd some other stuff too. I almost ordered lost coast last night but decided I'd wait to try it out. The toasted toffy has SOME spots that look like septoria. It's the second furthest in flower and very indica leaning. It seems to be flowering vigorously so I don't want to fuck with it too much. I could use plant doctor on it and see what happens but I'm going to monitor for a few days after defoliating. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 4 AND SHOOK OFFCTHE PLANTS. HADNT RAINED MUCH. BAGS ARE STILL HEAVY. THE TEN WAS LIGHT AND THE EVENT HORIZON BESIDE IT SEEMED A LITTLE LGHT AS WELL. I THINK IT MIGHT BE ME COMPARING THEM TO OTHER PLANTS THAT ARE SATURATED. SEEING HOW THEY BOTH LOOKED THE BEST IVE EVER SEEN THEM I HELD OFF WATERING. ITS ALSO SPRINKL9NG AMD GOING TO RAIN TONIGHT. ILL REASSESS IN THE MORNING. PLANNED ON USING PLANT DOCTOR ON TOASTED TOFFY BUT DECIDED AGAINST IT PARTIALLY DUE TO THE RAIN. PARTIALLY BECAUSE I PUSSED OUT. I WANTED TO FEED. IVE NOTICED SOME FADE AND PLANTS PUSHING AND TRYING TO GET OVER THE FENXE INTO FLOWER. THE TOASTED TOFFY AND THE UNKNOWN IN THE 50 ATE THE FURTHEST ALONG AND DEVELOPING ROCK HARD BUDS. GMO HAS A MASSIVE STRETCH. THINGS CHANGE DAILY. I WANTED TO GET A GOOD DOSE OF NUTES IN SO AFTER THIS LITTLE BIT OF RAIN WHEN WE GET THAT NICE SUNSHINE MY PLANTS WILL TAKE OFF!! THEY'VE BEEN PROGRESSING FAST DESPITE THE SHITTY WEATHER. 8/20 It's still sprinkling. It SAYS WE got zero rain yesterday but that's just not true. Today is supposed to be light showers with like .02 in 9f rain. I mixed up some water to check the plants. I figured a few would he light. The event horizon on the back SEEMED a little light. So did the one invthe ten. I realized it was just comparing it to the bags that were saturated. Still I ended up giving the event horizon in the back a half gallon and split the other half with the one in the 10 that dries out super fast. It's crazy. The weather just abruptly changed one day and I go from watering twice a day to hardly at all! Everything but the sherb pie and the seedling in the 10gal are vigorously flowering. Upping the nutes was a smart move. The seemed to like it. I'm gonna check later and as soon as I can I'll hit that toasted toffy with plant doctor. That's tied for furthest along in flower. I've done a bunch of research and I think this is the right move. I'll keep this updated. After this small patch of shitty weather we are goingvto get some sun amd these girls will EXPLODE! WENT BACK OVER A FEW TIMES. LAST AT SIX. I DID SOME DEFOLIATION AND PRUNING OF PLANT INTERIORS. ITS ABOUT TIME TO TREAT THE TOASTED TOFFY AGAIN WITH PLANT DOCTOR. I CAN SEE SOME SEPTORIA SPOTS. I TREATED THE EVENT HORIZON THIS MORNING. IT GOT A FEW HOURS BEFORE A LITTPE RAIN WND THEN SUNNY AND 80. I USED BETWEEN A QUARTER AND HALF GALLON ON THE INE PLANT. I MAY NOT HAVE USED ENOUGH OF THE MIXED UP SOLUTION ONVTHE TOASTED TOFFY. IT HAD BEEN WORKING AWESOME AND NOW THAT ITS TIME TO REAPPLY I NOTICE A FEW LEAVES THAT LOOK INFECTED. OVER THE NEXT WEEK ILL BE MONITORING THE RESPONS FROM THE PLANT DOCTOR. I'M CONSIDERING APPLYING PLANT DOCTOR TO THE REST OF THE GARDEN. I THIBJ THE K BICARB HAS BEEN DOING GOOD KEEPING THE PM DOWN ON THE MIDDLE GMO. I HATE THAT I HAVE TO FIGHT DISEASES. IM NOT DOING CLONES AGAIN. AND IM GOING TO BE MUCH CLEANER. THE SHERB PIE LOOKS A LITTLE OVERWATERED AND HAS SOME YELLOW LEAVES BUT MANY HAVE TURNED PURPLE AND OTHER FALL COLORS. THE PLANTS ARE AGGRESSIVELY FLOWERING AND TEMPS ARE CHANGING. STILL IN EARLY FLOWER. IVE GOT A GOOD FEELING. IVE DEALT WITH MUCH WORSE AND CAME OUT GOOD.
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💩Holy Crap Growmies We Are Back💩 Well after another short break we are back at it 😁 So what do you say we have some fun 👈 We got some FASTBUDS TESTERS FBT2307 😛 Well growmies we are at 7 days in and everything is going great 👌 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈
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She seems to be overfed, showing yellowing here and there. Also other has some leaves have brown spots. I might have messed up the Ph because I did not adjust the Ph of nutrients mix. I assumed it was ph corrected. Now, I am adjusting the Ph and reducing feeding. Let’s hope that she recovers next week.
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@Mz876
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She’s beginning to stretch and preflower so I’m sure we’ll officially be in flower in the next week. Did some defoliation on all the babies in the garden so they can get more light penetration.
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@MG2009
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12/22/2021 Starting the over night soak in H2O2 water, then onto soil mix to finish germination. Soaking in H2O2 and water, about an ounce h2o2 mixed with .500ml spring water. It aids in breaking down seed shell, and sanitize seeds at the same time. I will sow directly into soil as breeder suggest. 12/25/2021 All I5 seeds sprouted in water little 1-2 mm tap roots, potted into small cups and reppot as necessary, should get 100% germ rate if I don't hurt them tiny tap roots putting them in soil. 12/28/2021 Lemon OG 100% germ rate, Biscotti Skunk 4 of 5, Grape Skunk 4of5,and I will take the blame if others don't take because of miss handling, so very happy with the germination rate I'll give it 100% Thanks @QCS for given me the opportunity to grow your genetics.🙏🏻 Ps. ROJI OGS will go next round I'd like to do them alone I think she will be special. Biscotti Skunk Biscotti Skunk Cannabis Seeds Feminized With a noteworthy lineage, Biscotti Skunk is a mix between the Cookies variant and Kush on one end, acting as the base layer for flavors and effects, while the Skunk addition rounds it off beautifully on the other end, creating Biscotti Skunk a totally unique marijuana strain. This strain works good indoors or outdoors it produces nice big buds. The flowering period for her is 8 to 9 weeks Outdoors this plants will be ready to harvest at the beginning of October, and offer yields of around 700g per plant in ideal conditions. The effects you can expect from Biscotti Skunk strain are relaxation with a good creativity boost, followed by a gradual energizing body feel. A bud with a very complex flavor profile, this indica-leaning hybrid Skunk come from planting 50 Skunk F2 seeds and one of the fenotip came out looking like this. We liked the strain so much that we have finally duplicate the strain. Grape Skunk is one of those tangy, tropical smokes. Her flowers give off the unmistakable scent of tropical citrus, with some accents of grape. THC levels is between 20% and 24%. Grape Skunk is a large producer under optimum conditions. A dense cannabis plant with pink purple colors. Growing Grape Skunk cannabis is easy and great for first time grower. This strain is also great for relieving stress and anxiety, as well as reducing chronic pain, nausea, and insomnia. Lemon Og Kush Cannabis Seeds Feminized This strain joins the OG Kush genetics, with strong Indica and physical effect, cross with a Skunk plant which has a very distinctive and special lemony flavor. The result of this crossing between these two robust genetics a plant with similar structure than the OG, average internodal distance, columnar structure that can branch a little more if the plant has enough space and substrate. Still, it mantains the average height of the OG Kush , producing lots of flowers in relation to its average size. Production can reach 550g/m2 in about 8-9 weeks , which will allow us to harvest our plants before the rainy season arrives, without worrying about molds: it is a mold resistant marijuana strain. Regarding the flavor, it huge amount of resin and terpenes will release a strong fuel and lemon smell, which is noticeable even when we smoke, reaching every corner of our palate. Moreover, its effect is very medicinal , ideal to eliminate nausea and stimulate appetite, deeply relaxing both body and mind. Lemon Og Kush Cannabis Seeds Feminized This strain joins the OG Kush genetics, with strong Indica and physical effect, cross with a Skunk plant which has a very distinctive and special lemony flavor. The result of this crossing between these two robust genetics a plant with similar structure than the OG, average internodal distance, columnar structure that can branch a little more if the plant has enough space and substrate. Still, it mantains the average height of the OG Kush , producing lots of flowers in relation to its average size. Production can reach 550g/m2 in about 8-9 weeks , which will allow us to harvest our plants before the rainy season arrives, without worrying about molds: it is a mold resistant marijuana strain. Regarding the flavor, it huge amount of resin and terpenes will release a strong fuel and lemon smell, which is noticeable even when we smoke, reaching every corner of our palate. Moreover, its effect is very medicinal , ideal to eliminate nausea and stimulate appetite, deeply relaxing both body and mind. It's obvious I get regular seed at this point. But feminized information was all they had on website,assuming it's all the same.
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5/3/2020 this is my first grow. Today I took the seedlings and put them in there pots. Tomorrow ill start the lights. I added... 2 tsp Big Bloom ¼ tsp Holy Mackerel 1 tsp Boomerang 5/4/2020 I just checked on the seedlings. There both already popping there heads out of the ground already. 5/5/2020 Turned the light on for the first time for this grow and for the first real time ever. 5/6/2020 The first real leaves have sprouted. Also gave her ¼ tsp microbe Brew ¼ tsp Kangaroots 1 tsp Kelp I kelp you 5/7/20 As per advise. I'll be adding only water for the next couple weeks. Ph to 6.5ish. 5/8/2020 I watered with PH'd water around 6.4PH. it seems like it hasn't grow much in the last couple days. The G.G. us already starting to grow its second set of leafs. Wich the Zkittlez isn't. I just hope I didn't fuck anything up. I know there two different Phenotypes. (strains) I know I shouldn't be going off each other. But it's something I'll add just for the records of them growing. 5/9/2020 I'm just going g to start off saying I think I'm over watering my plants. Im watering every 3 days or so. I also think I may have stunted my life one. I really hope its me bing a noob and worrying to much. It would really suck to have to kill it cause of something I did. Maybe its too many nutes. Idk but I'm going to just water with allot less regular pH'd water. And let it dry much more between watering. 5/9/2020 (#2) Here's an extra entry for the day. I have the exaust fan just blowing into my room.... until today! Its going to be summer very soon. And with that comes a ton of heat. Now my place isn't that big and it gets hot and I mean like 95⁰ inside when it's 75⁰ outside. I do have A/C's that's an added cost. I didn't see spending all this money to grow and not set it up properly. A few days ago I woke up late and some how in got to 95⁰ in the tent I was lets say not very happy about it. And I know its going to happen again unless I do something about it.. So what did I do about it? I installed a dryer vent to vent the hot air to the outside. With a summer/winter box. To eather recycle the air or blow it outside. I also ordered a Ac Infinity cloudline t4. I'm also going to be making a board with a place to put the led drivers out of the tent if need be. And have a place for the T4 monitor/control.
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Hi all! Back with more phone pics!! 😅 Made some changes beginning of the week. The corners where getting a bit too high so I lowered her by removing the grid underneath. This gave her an extra 15cm / 6inch of space. I fed her with some micro elements using Acti-Vera and she really liked it! She was missing some of those I think, now the leaves are pointing to the sun and she even regained some green color. I have to admit that this lady gets me quite exited!! 😃 Red here and there that a lot of growers have quitted before the end so I hope I'll be able to bring her to the finish line! See you next week!
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Woche 6 - Übergang zur Blütephase und erste Herausforderungen Die sechste Woche markierte den Übergang von der Vegetations- in die Blütephase. Bis zum Wochenende wurde weiterhin der Terra Vega Dünger verwendet, mit einem Verhältnis von 30 ml pro 10 Liter Wasser. Am Samstag, dem ersten Tag der Blütephase, wurde jedoch deutlich, dass ein Wechsel auf den Blütedünger nötig war. Leider führte die verspätete Umstellung auf die Canna Terra Bloom Linie zu einem leichten Nährstoffmangel, der sich in den ersten Tagen der Blüte zeigte. Anfang der ersten vollen Blütewoche wurde dies korrigiert, indem vollständig auf Canna Bloom umgestellt wurde. Die pH- und EC-Werte blieben stabil und optimal eingestellt. Die Temperaturen stiegen minimal an, blieben jedoch bei angenehmen 26 Grad. Mit Beginn der Blütephase startete der sogenannte Stretch, und die Pflanzen legten beeindruckende 2,5 cm pro Tag zu. Während dieser Woche wurden die ersten unteren Blätter entfernt – ein leichtes Lollipopping, um die Energie auf die oberen Bereiche zu konzentrieren. Die entfernten Blätter wurden getrocknet und sogar laminiert, um den Fortschritt dieses besonderen Grows festzuhalten. Es wurden ebenfalls einige kleinere Zweige und Blätter im unteren Bereich entfernt, um die Belüftung zu verbessern. Das eigentliche, umfassendere Lollipopping wird jedoch erst in zwei bis drei Wochen erfolgen. Trotz des anfänglichen Mangels aufgrund der zu späten Umstellung des Düngers blieben die Pflanzen insgesamt kräftig, gesund und wuchsen konstant weiter. Der Übergang in die Blütephase verlief somit erfolgreich, und die Pflanzen zeigten weiterhin ihr beeindruckendes Potenzial. ENGLISH Week 6 - Transition to Flowering and Initial Challenges The sixth week marked the transition from the vegetative to the flowering phase. Until the weekend, the Terra Vega fertilizer was still used at a ratio of 30 ml per 10 liters of water. On Saturday, the first day of flowering, it became clear that switching to the flowering fertilizer was necessary. Unfortunately, the late transition to the Canna Terra Bloom line caused a slight nutrient deficiency that appeared in the first few days of flowering. This was corrected at the beginning of the first full flowering week by fully switching to Canna Bloom. The pH and EC levels remained stable and optimally adjusted. Temperatures increased slightly but stayed at a comfortable 26 degrees. With the start of the flowering phase, the stretch began, with the plants growing an impressive 2.5 cm per day. During this week, the first lower leaves were removed—a light lollipopping to focus the energy on the upper parts. The removed leaves were dried and even laminated to document the progress of this unique grow. Some smaller branches and leaves were also removed from the lower areas to improve ventilation. However, the main lollipopping will take place in about two to three weeks. Despite the initial deficiency due to the late fertilizer switch, the plants remained overall strong, healthy, and continued to grow beautifully. The transition to the flowering phase was successful, and the plants continued to showcase their impressive potential.
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Lemon Cherry Cookies – Flowering Week 2 🌸 The plant is now fully into flowering. Bud sites are stacking up nicely and the white pistils are shooting out strongly. She’s still growing bushy and filling out the tent well. 📌 Training: • Lollypopping next Week 📌 Feeding: • 1 ml/L Bio-Grow • 2 ml/L Bio-Bloom • 1 ml/L Top-Max • 0.5 ml/L CalMag • 0.5 ml/L Alg-A-Mic Leaves look healthy and lush, with a nice green tone and just a light tip fade – exactly where she should be in this phase. Nutrients are being absorbed well, no visible deficiencies or stress signs.
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Hello everyone. so the growth causes me some concerns from what I believe I have identified as a deficiency in calmag but I have trouble getting out of it despite a second spray with 1ml of calmag/li at ph 6.5. yesterday I watered adding 0.8 calmag/litre (biobizz) I'm waiting 2/3 days to really panic. on the other hand, the stems are really big and suggest a robust plant and the well erected leaves reassure me about the overall health. I take all your advice with great pleasure. thank you all.
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Anubis is Good and healty, it is developing very well. Now is time to feed her a lot so she will develops a lot of big buds :P This strain seems very strong!