The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
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@Fatnastyz
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12-20 Watered both about a gallon. Plain ph. Shoulda maybe added cal/mag . But next time. 3x seemed to burn a little, then some cal/mag issues. 3x is living up to her crosses. She smells like straight gas/fuel. Scc just seems happy. Just took some pictures of that weirdo on her. 😂 Well my first Polyploid, its pretty neat. She is also an oxymoron, she has a sweet stink. 😂 😁😻🤘 12-22 1 gallon Scc only. 5ml cal/mag, 1 ml drops, 1/2 tsp recharge. 12-23 Wanted to double check myself. Ppm 500ish. On 3x. Gave cal/mag 5ml, drops 1ml, and top dressed 1 tbs buildaflower. Might not be enough but we shall see. Happy Holidays 😁🤘 12-24 Watered Scc 3 liters. 1/8th tsp bloom booster, 5ml cal/mag, 1 ml drops. 3x is Hungry AF. May run into some trouble here. 😂 12-26 Scc got ph6.5 bloom booster, cal/mag 5ml and drops 1 ml. 3x is so hungry, I found some tiger bloom I had, idk if its any good. 😂 Gave a bloom booster and some tiger bloom. Was at 700 ppm, then I got scared and diluted it to 550 ppm. Also has some cal/mag and drops. Recharge. Gotta watch her close. 🤞
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Soo the blue cheese has hit 43 days from germination and flowers are starting to form up. I should’ve done low stress training on this, hopefully next time. Temps around 29 during the day and 26 at night. Humidity is around 41%
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@NONSENSE
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Good day everyone! The seed sprouted within 2 days. I used small starter tray to get the first roots. After 2 days the plant grouwen out and I already can see good roots. I will use Budget DWC system made from : simple black basket for 1$ , air pump for 10$ , air tubes( stones) for 4$ , small pot 0.4$, white filler ( from old tv cartoon box) to fix the plant until the roots will fix it, black tape 0.5$ to isolate the pot, black cover for the top 2$. total about 17-20$ you can make same. I confirm it works PERFECT. Please check the pictures for more info. Every 2-3 months I got a high-quality buds and wonder how fast they grow up !!! :OOO
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@Kushizlez
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Day 24-31 (Day 25) The smell in here is absolutely ridiculous. My last grow didn’t smell even close to this bad in early flower. (Day 27) Stretch is finally all done. #6 in the back is very stout and barely stretched compared to everything else. I doubt it will yield much but I’m excited to see the nice tight colas on it. It seems to be still getting adequate light and raising it up is hard to do with a scrog net so I will just leave it. If it wasn’t getting enough light it would be stretching right? The early frost is really shocking to me. My last indoor round definitely wasn’t this caked and I’ve never had an outdoor plant on this level either. That’s also true in terms of smell too. (Day 29) I’m still debating whether I should feed anything in flower or just leave it. The only deficiency I’m seeing is purple stems from P def which could actually just be from light intensity rather than a lack of P. I’ve done some thinking and I’ve decided to only feed my small plant. What I’m most curious about is if a PK boost will actually make any kind of a difference in flower when it comes to bud size and smokability. So to test this theory I will be top dressing a teaspoon of 0-18-0 bat guano, a tablespoon of 1-4-2 Destiny launch and a half strength watering of 0-0-15 kelp extract. I’m trying to avoid N all together as I just toxed my guinea pig plants with another experimental flowering PK boost that had a very small amount of N in it. This plant in particular actually has very early signs of N def and probably will fade harder than the rest. (Day 31) Shit. Looks like #1 is starting to herm. It’s definitely not environment or light leaks so maybe it’s just genetic or the recent leaching stressed it out too much. Either way, it’s only a single lower branch and I’m prepared to cut her down if I start seeing anymore. I double checked every other budsite but couldn’t find anymore. In my experience true herms usually start pushing bananas out of the main tops and plants like mine can usually be salvaged with little to no seeded bud. But then again it’s day 31, when these things usually start to happen. I’m 50/50 on this one. I will be watching it everyday like a hawk if anymore show up. The breeder I’m using, ‘Jordan of the Island’s’ is notorious for having unstable genetics and this will be the last time I run any of his stuff. The quality is good, certainly better than most European and Dutch genetics I’ve run but I know I could do better where genetics are concerned. I can’t wait to start hunting my archive dosidos x gelato 41 and in house sugarcane.
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@Kingseeds
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Last week and flushing With flawless finish and pure water
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This week in my perpetual auto garden all by Tastebudz. - Purple Punch is in the back left corner & - Mimosa is in the back right corner. - Vanilla Frosting is in the front left corner. I hope to harvest her this Tuesday. Flushing with 2 teaspoons per gallon of unsulfured blackstrap molasses 1 gallon total added to the reservoir. - Peanut Butter Cookies is in the front right corner I hope to harvest her in about 10 to 14 days. Flushing with 2 teaspoons per gallon of unsulfured blackstrap molasses 3 gallons total added to the reservoir. * FYI The Unicorn burst that I'm germinating is by Gas Reaper Genetics.*
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took all the branches of these 2 and used LST to move them out from the main stalk just like you were putting up an artificial Christmas tree. Shit these 2 girls are smelling sweet and dank and are stacking so large now. Can't wait to see how this one smokes.
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@ChaseGH
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Shishkaberry #3 took about 3 days to take down and trim. So much work! Started pulling some of the Tangcicle and Shishkaberry #2 and #4 on 10/14. Found some bud rot on most of the larger colas on #2 and #4. Sucks, but I think I was able to isolate and remove the majority of it. Lost a lot of primo flower tho. Tropicanna Banana getting much closer. Showing lots of purple with the cold night temperatures.
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Started to worry about space in my tent, so flip time, especially given the fact I still have other strains that need to fit in here, only decided to document the Dos Si Dos as my other strains are either from cuttings and are very secret lol or they are seeds I received as samples.
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@ChiTaN
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It's been another successful week.It's another successful week. The girls will soon get mineral food because the deficits are definitely too large despite the increase in food doses.💪
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Se preparo una solucion de Mills Start R: - PPM : 100 -pH : 5.8 Se submergio cubos de roca de lana dentro de la soulcion. Cada semilla que se germinara se paso a un cubo de roca de lana y se mantuvo sin luz. Cuando las plantulas salian del cubo, se pasaron a otra bandeja de germinacion con domo de humedad bajo una luz T5.
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Hola chicos aqui mostrando el procesos de esta jamaican que van super sanitas esperando con ancias no mas esos racimos. Saludos gente...!!!
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@Natrona
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Week 15 days 99-105 . I'm am flushing all plants with 1 gallon of filtered water each. I've reduced the light cycle from 18 to 14 hours to reduce heat stress. It may reduce yield as well based on comments I've read in other growers diaries. An oz per plant would be nice. Of course more would be better but an oz makes a pound of cannabutter. Reducing the light hours is reducing the purpleness in the stems of og kush and gorilla glue but Purple chill still has purple stems The Natrona sisters spend their nights in the garage where the temps are 10-15 degrees cooler than in the day temps in the tent. Night temps ranged this week between 63-66 with rh 51-76%. The high rhythm comes after a rain. During the day, I'm keeping the tent open while circulating 2 fans. Day Temps can reach 80 so it gets hot in there. flooded each plant with 1 gal of water. From here forward I will be flushing all plants with filtered water at 1 gal for each plant every other day. Monday, flushed with 1 gal of water. Starting this flush, I added ice to the top of the soil before watering. See photo. This is a stress technique used to force plant phenotype colors. I don't think it will work for mine as I over fed. While I have 3 different strains, they look the same with blue green dominance. Thursday, flushed with 1 gal of water. Starting this flush, I added ice to the top of the soil before watering. See photo Saturday, flushed with 1 gal of water. Starting this flush, I added ice to the top of the soil before watering. See photo Sunday photos I'm not seeing any change in leaf or bud colorations from flushing out the fertilizers nor from the ice treatment. General comments" After putting the plants in the garage during the night, morning soil temperatures are within a degree of the night air temperature. This has been about 15 degrees cooler (50s) than the tent temperatures (75+). This week our weather has been unseasonably warm so the night temperatures have been 63-71 with Rh 51-70% Tent temps in the day 75-80 and RH 47-59%. Special thanks to @DreamIT for showing me how to add music to video. Check out my Gigi video above for a short clip.