The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
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==> Decreased the base nutrients for less Nitrogen She is doing great! Calyxes swelling nicely :) Starting to get some color in the leaves on the higher buds :D The nice smells of watermelon candy and sour weed are slowly intensifying and the macro pictures surprised me! I can't wait till she is ready, I think she will be ready first :D
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@Canna96
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The buds are very tight, but they didn't grow large colas so that means wasted time trimming cannabis, which I am not a huge fan of. I will not be growing this strain again, as I believe there are far better breeders and strains out there. I will continue to seek out the best breeders and strains until I am satisfied. I believe this Auto will yield in the 16-22 Ounce range dry, so I am not super disappointed, but I know I can do much better than this. After 6 days of drying, it took me around 7 hours to trim this auto, and she ended up yielding 16.72 Ounces. So she was definitely on the lower end of the spectrum from what I estimated on chop day, but still in the range. The buds are very tight, and smell like like cheese. I am only running one mature auto at a time now, so next up will be the Acid Dough from Ripper Seeds. I hope everyone has a great rest of your weekend, stay safe and Blaze On!!
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8 weeks into flower , white pistels still forming but thricombes are ready .
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8/21, 8/22 TOASTED TOFFY WAS TREATED WITH PLANT DOCTOR ON THE 22nd. It's been a few days of rainy dreary weather. This morning I went over and did some MORE defoliation on the toasted toffy trying to get all infected leaves off. I then used the rest of the k bicarb on the gmo in the middle. I haven't seen hardly any pm. So that seems to be working. However I don't want septoria to spread through my garden either. Hopfully the plant doctor will take care of the problem. If not I'll get something different. I can make a diy Dr. Zymes or I could just go to the store and buy something specific like trichodermia. The weather has been a fungus nirvana. The conditions couldn't have been anymore perfect for mold development. I'm super impressed with the k bicarb treating the pm. I took tons of pictures yesterday but I've been sick and couldn't upload them. I still need to sanitize and put my supports up. I'll keep this updated with what I'm doing. UPDATE: AFTER UNCKES FUNERAL I WATERED THE SHERB PIE THAT I DIDNT LAST TIME AND THEN I FED. I DIDNT FEED THE TOASTED TOFFY DUE TO IT BEING TREATED WITH PLANT DOCTOR. EVERYTHING GOT A QRT THE 50GAL GOT MORE. TWO GALLONS TOTAL USED. I NOTÌCED SOME SLIGHT PM ON THE GMO IN THE MIDDLE. IT WOULD BE TIME TO TREAT AGAIN ANYWAY. I PLAN ON WATERING TOMORROW AND TREATING THIS PLANT AGAIN. IM HESITANT TO UsE PLANT DOCTOR (do to feeding tonight) RIGHT OFF SO ILL PROBABLY USE YHE K BICARD. IT WORKS GOOD. I SHOULDNT HAVE FED THAT PLANT SO I COULD APPLY THE PLANT DOCTOR INSTEAD. THAT SEEMS TO BE WORKING REALLY WELL. LAST TIME I USED IT WAS ON FUSARIUM AND THATS JUST A LOSING BATTLE. DID A QIICK VIDEO ILL UPLOAD TOMORROW. 8/23 I HAD A CRISIS SITUATION AND I FUCKED UP THE DIARY. I THINK I JUST DIDN'T RECORD WHAT I DID ON THIS DAY. 8/24 I checked the bags and they were heavy. I watered the sherb pie today as it missed the last watering. Everything but the toasted toffy got fed yesterday. I noticed some slight pm on the middle GMO that I've been treating with k bicarb. Just a couple leaves. Looks like a couple spots I missed. I was going to apply it again but I dodnt have time. I'll be back over soon and I'll treat it and do the defoliation needed. Maybe I'll even sanitize and get support up. Since I fed yesterday I don't want to use the plant doctor for a few more days. I'm thinking of treating everything with it. I need to read and see when the next application for toasted toffy is due. Things are really starting to flower. Once I get the work done I may add beastie bloom to my nute line up. I think I'll do another k-bicarb app on the plant with pm. It's doing a good job. Since the l bicarb I don't see any pm. I should've held off feeding it so I could've used plant doctor. I'm monitoring toasted toffy and if it keeps working good I'll treat everything preventatively. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 11:30 BECAUSE IT HAD CLIMBED INTO THE UPPER 80'S. AS I SUSPECTED THE PLANTS NEEDED WATER. THEY COULDVE WAITED UNTIL TONIGHT BUT UNFORTUNATELY I HAvE TO DO THINGS WHEN IM ABLE TOO. EVERYTHING GOT A GALLON EXCEPT THE GMO IN THE MIDDLE IN THE 30, THAT GOT 1.5. SHERB PIE GOT IT YESTERDAY AND ISNT FLOWERING AS VIGEROUS SO IT USES LESS WATER. BEFORE WATERING I WENT THROUGH THE ENTIRE GARDEN AND DEFOLIATED WHAT NEEDED TO BE DEFOLIATED. I HAVE A FEW SMALL LIMBS I SHOULD PRUNE BUT THAT STUFF MAKES GOOD HASH MATERIAL AND ACTUALLY ADDS UP. I NOTICED A LITTLE BIT OF PM ON THE GMO I TREATED. Just a couple spots on a couple leaves and I removed them. I MIXED UP K BICARB AND ILL APPLY IN THE MORNING. I WANTED TO USE PLANT DOCTOR BUT SEEING THAT I FED ILL WAIT. ID LIKE TO GIVE THEM ALL PLANT DOCTOR AS A PREVENTATIVE. SUPPOSABLY IT STIMULATES AN IMMUNE RESPONSE WITHIN THE PLANT WHICH FIGHTS THE PATHOGENS THEN LEAVES POTASSIUM AND PHOSPHORUS BEHIND AFTER 4 DAYS FOR THE PLANT TO USE. I THINK ITS GETTING CLOSE TO TREATING THE TOASTED TOFFY AGAIN. ILL HAVE TO LOOK. I TOOK A VIDEO BUT ILL HAVE TO UPLOAD IT it. 8/25 I know the diary is fucked up. But I know I watered yesterday. Except the sherb pie. I didn't check the weight bit did a bunch of defoliation. I made another half gallon of k bicarb with a drop of dawn and sprayed all the gmos. I only saw a COUPLE spots with pm on them and I removed them. Still though I wanted to make sure it doesn't get out of control. I should've checked the weight of the sherb pie but I'm sure it's fine.. I took a video but I can't upload it yet. WENT BACK OVER AROUND TWO. IT WAS A BLISTERING HOT DAY IN THE 80'S. THE BAGS WERE DRY. THEY HAD A LITTLE WRIGHT TO THEM AND MOST SOME LEAVES WERE PRAYING. SOME WERE STARTING TO DROOP THOUGH. I WATERED EVERYTHING A GALLON EXCEPT THE SHERB PIE I GOT THIS MORNING. I gave the gmo in the 30 1.5. THE EVENT HORIZON IN THE MIDDLE COULDVE WAITED UNTIL MORNING BUT AT LEAST I CAN KEEP TRACK OF IT EASIER THIS. MAYBE I SHOULD GIVE THE 50 MORE WATER AT A TIME. IM GETTING YELLOW LEAVES. I THINK ITS PROBABKY SENESCENCE. ITS ABOUT THE SAME TIME EVERY YEAR I START LOSING SOME LEAVES. IT SEEMS TO BE JUST THE SHERB PIE AND THE BIG ONE IN THE 50. THAT PLANT HAS QUARTER SIZE BUDS ON IT THOUGH. ITS AMAZIBG HOW MUCH THE WATER INTAKE CHANGES WHEN ITS 60 OR UPPER 50S WITH HIGH HUMIDITY TO WHEN ITS IN THE 80S ALMOST 90. I HOPE IM NOT WATERING TO OFTEN. ITS BEEN COLD AT NIGHT. IN THE 50S. THE EVENT HORIZON HAS TURNED A NICE PURPLE ON MANY LEAVES. THE GMO'S AND SHERB PIE ALSO ARE TURNING PURPLE AND OTHER FALL COLORS. I SAW WHAT LOOKED LIKE SEPTORIA SPOTS CRAWLING UP KY EVENT HORIZON IN THE BACK. IN GOING TO TREAT IT WITH PLANT DOCTOR TOMORROW. 8/26 Rainy day. I noticed some septoria on the toasted toffy climbing a bottom branch. But it is time to reapply plant doctor. I saw a couple spots on the event horizon and I treated it today with 1/4 gallon of 2tsp per gallon plant doctor. I sprayed the leaves then I used the rest on the soil. The k bicarb is still keeping any pm at bay. I haven't seen a spot. I hope the plant doctor helps the event hotlrizon. I'm not even sure if it has it but I want to be cautious. I'm thinking of treating them all with plant doctor. I'm also going to use beastie bloom on some of the more advanced plants. I wasn't expecting it to rain but it wasn't for at least a couple hours after I sprayed. I ran another support line across the cage. I need to lst both event horizons and defoliate the sherb pie. It's weird but it seems like EVERY day I go over the flowers are bigger! I see birds darting out when I approach. Maybe that's why i haven't been finding pillars. I found ONE hairy one this week trying to escape to the soil on a string. I got him though. We'll see how it goes. If not I have other options for treatments if needed. That plant in the 10 is HUGE. I'm suprised it got that big in 10gals! Trying to upload videos but they are LONG so I don't know if they
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9wk flowering. Loupe shows all clear CRYSTALS I guess 10 week flowering might be the lick.. Maybe even 11 😜😜maybe even 12. Im straight going off amber CRYSTALS .. Now their all clear🤔🤔or is it milky.. Most defenetly now AMBER
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Día 09. Segunda semana de crecimiento. La planta sigue creciendo a un buen ritmo. Ya pronto voy a agregar un bioestimulante de crecimiento y algunos microorganismos. Probablemente esta semana también haga la poda apical. Día 14. Le hice el corte apical el día 10. Ya está recuperada y creciendo. Por el momento mantengo la solución. Mañana seguro ya cambio y le agrego un bioestimulante de crecimiento. Aún no fui a buscar las bacterias, pero esta semana tengo que ir sin falta. Ya voy a ir preparando la parte de arriba para cuando lleguen los esquejes. Pero una vez que corte, tengo dos semanas de enraizamiento. Por lo cual todavía falta. Pero ya está todo encaminado.
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@Kushizlez
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Day 33-40 (May 24th-May 31st) (Day 34) I just found a herm branch on the tight blueberry pheno. It looks like a random pollen sack opened right above a lower branch. I removed the sack but I saw a small amount of dust fall onto one of the lower branches. I’m going to leave it to see if it will pollinate that small branch at all. I spent a good 5 minutes looking closely for bananas or claws but couldn’t find anymore. The main bud is clearly unaffected so I will just leave it unless it is visibly seeding itself. Too bad because I’m really excited for this plant. (Day 36) Not a lot has happened since I flushed them. Growth actually looks healthy and I don’t see any deficiencies on anything yet. (Day 37) Both of these badazz cheese phenos are picture perfect and easily hold up against Canadian and California quad grade. I might try to reveg them at the end and take some clones. They have this unique pungent, grassy, sour milk smell that is just wonderful. The density and bud structure is looking great too. This whole plant will probably take 3 minutes to trim if that. (Day 38) Just found a banana on the shitty blueberry pheno. This pheno is trash and I would honestly throw it away if it didn’t mess up the 3 perfect rows. It has almost no frost, no smell, is airy and has bad structure. I’ve actually never seen a plant with such little frost. Even outdoors. (Day 39) I think most of this tent will be done by day 60 but I will probably ride it out until day 70+. I don’t think the blueberries or the jacks will fill out very much either way but taking it too day 70 will ensure maximum production from each plant.
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I have applied some LST techniques learned in various online sources. I trust she will handle it well.
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It's doing it's normal tall Jack Herer growing. Definitely have to start training soon, she'll be going outside but I want to keep her shorter almost bush like. We'll see how that goes with a tall girl?!
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@Dunk_Junk
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Another 19cm vertical growth this week and she got a lot bushier. She has started flowering at last. For nutrients I'm using 15g of 20-20-20 powder mixed with 10L of water. Also added 4ml/L of both Cannazym and Terpinator. This brings it to around 1600ppm including ~300ppm for my clean water. Timelapse Sequence: Blue Dream *** Auto Jack *** (too short - out of shot) Pineapple Express CBD Compassion BLue Dream *** Auto Jack *** (too short - out of shot) Pineapple Express CBD Compassion
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@Ju_Bps
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Hello growmies 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾🌲🌲, 👋 Girls are happy and keep turning purple, still beatifull, the smell is 🤪 💜💜😋😋 💪 Girls enjoy the defoliation. 💧 Give water each 2/3 day 2 l Water + Bloom + Green Sensation + Sugar Royal (3.5 + 1 + 1 ml/l) PH @6 💡Mars Hydro - FC 3000 50% 13 cm Mars Hydro Fan kit Setting 9 Have a good week and see you next week 👋 Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾❤️🌲 Mars Hydro - Smart FC3000 300W Samsung LM301B LED Grow Light💡💡 https://www.mars-hydro.com/fc-3000-samsung-lm301b-led-grow-light Mars Hydro - 6 Inch Inline Fan And Carbon Filter Combo With Thermostat Controller 💨💨 https://www.mars-hydro.com/6-inch-inline-duct-fan-and-carbon-filter-combo-with-thermostat-controller Fast Buds - Gorilla Cookies FF🌲🌲 https://2fast4buds.com/us/seeds/gorilla-cookies-fast-flowering
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La pequeña banana 🍌está mostrando sintomas de quemaduras en sus hojas. Probablemente no este asimilando bien esta cantidad de nutrientes y hemos realizado un lavando de raices para bajar los ppm y restaurar sus valores a 800ppm. Veremos como avanza las proximas semanas 😉
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So this week I added nutrients for the flowering stage. I gave her a little trim as well as added her netting. I flipped her on last Sunday PP
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@Kirsten
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💚 ORGANIC ORION F1 💚 3.6.25: The plant was watered with 2ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.3 containing the following nutrients; ♡ 2ml Ecothrive Trace ♡ 1/4 TSP Ecothrive Biosys PH: 6.3 PPM: 418 With an additional 2l of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.5 containing the following nutrients; ♡ 3ml Ecothrive Trace ♡ 1/4 TSP Ecothrive Biosys PH: 6.5 PPM:424 This week has been productive and we are now in flower! I've top dressed the plant again to prepare for the flowering stage, and have started LST by tying down the 2 main tops. 6.6.25: The plant was top dressed today. Top dress: 💚 2 Cups Worm Castings 💚 1 TBSP Ecothrive Life Cycle 💚 1 TBSP Ecothrive Charge 💚 1 TBSP Ground Cinnamon This was watered in with 2ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.3 containing; ♡ 3ml Ecothrive Trace ♡ 1/4 TSP Ecothrive Biosys PH: 6.3 PPM: 422. Thanks for checking in this week and hanging out 💚 ✌️ 🍃 😊 🌱
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@TrueNorth
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-Strain: Purple Lemonade - Fast Buds -Tent: 5x5 Gorilla Grow Tent -Lights: Budget LED Grow Lights 2 x 250 Watt LED Full Spec/Red Spec mixed boards -Light Cycle: 18/6 -Soil: Fox Farm -Air Circulation: AC Infinity Cloudline T6 Inline Duct Fan WECLOME BACK GROWMIES! Week 10 here with our PURPLE LEMONADE by Fast Buds! January 29, 2020 (DAY 67) - Hey there growmies we can clearly see the big bud getting to work, they are thickening out well and colour and smell is phenomenal. they are such hungry beast i love seeing the daily change!
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@XanHalen
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Nov 29: They seem to be accelerating in veg growth but I see a small portion of the leaf on the smaller plant either grew in mutated or somthing cut it, I haven’t seen a single bug in the box so I don’t think it’s that but you never know, and the bigger plant has some issues near the base of its stem, I noticed it before I did the LST and now I’m wondering if I should have addressed that issue before starting the LST. Let me know what you guys think! Dec 2: Walked into the room and noticed a faint smell, wasn’t any smell last night when I started the LST on the slower girl. Further inspection showed some white pistols on the bigger girl, I believe she is the culprit for the smell as the other seems about a week behind. They are both now LST‘d and leaf tucked. Enjoy the pics and vid’s! Dec 6: I have tied down some of the longer chutes on the bigger plant (will see in week 5 update) to create more airflow and light penetration as I didn’t even realize how bushy the stem and node sections had gotten. I have also cut the chutes coming off the first true leaf. I don’t think I will make any cuts to the smaller one as it’s already a slower growing pheno. Going on a trip starting the end of week secede to late week 8, so I have a automatic feeder coming from Amazon, and I will continue using it through flower to reduce open tent time.
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Did a lot of defoliation, there were just too many leaves. Set up an auto watering system which is in manual mode right now Plant is very happy! Trichomes starting to form