The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.
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@Nikkov
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Since last week I've been doing the normal watering only when they ask and watering once a week with top crop top veg fertilizer and they've responded very well and both are already in 11L airpots that I transplanted during this week
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She smells Delicious,looks like she's enjoying the soil full or mycorrizae,humic and fulvic acids,organics it's the best for taste and smell I don't care what anybody says,I'm adding also lactobacillus liquid made by me and also florians living organics which is a mix full of humic acids,worm castings,mycorrizae,seaweed and bat guano.thank you so much for watching let's see how she performs
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@TTerpz
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Start of week 3 Update 2/27: they have been fed with a dose that was cut in half (fox farm dirty dozen)
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@GRow_M8s
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Fast drying method with dehumidifier at 21C° for 3 days and dry trimming, even the sugar leaves are smokable and full with amber crystals, no harshness at all. District odours.
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Been slack with the updates as we are busy buidling a new greenhouse. will make sure I take nice individual photos for harvest though.
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I had to skip a couple of weeks, as it was a bit hectic for me, but here is my next update. I started flushing them this week, and they will be harvested soon. I think there will be one last update before the harvest.
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@Hawkbo
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Everything's in flush mode, didnt take any pics this week we had alot of work to do with the flush and harvest of the big citradellic and everything is so close to the chop I figured I would just wait until the day of to get the final pics. The video is from Tuesday which is when the harvest happened. The fades are coming in hot and the aromas are heavy filling the tent. Over the next week they will be coming down and will do another update.
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@BigDaddyK
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Big yielder, went a bit purple on one of them towards the end, smells of orange to me.....00000
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@Weed_nerd
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she grows very nicely takes water and nutrition well. I have started to train it and it responds well to that.excuse the lighting a get home the lamp for the photo and dry cabinet so there will be good pictures outside the tent too
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I’ll be most definitely harvesting these next week! I will continue with water from now until they are ripe and ready! They are absolutely smelling of some nuttiness and dank fuel ⛽️ like stardawg smells too! The buds are starting to swell too so thinking next 7 days I’ll be ready! Next upload will be harvest hope you like buddies! I’ll be hang drying this time! As I’ll have space and a tent to do it in as before I didn’t and used the brown bag method! But I can maintain between 14c - 18c with a humidity of 42 percent! So I’ll hang dry this time! Any suggestions?? Let me know! I’ll be putting 2 fans on them for air circulation and a air vent only sucking out as it will draw air in on its own and keep the humidity lower in the tent while drying!
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Day 74 (28/05/18) - 2 of the Girl scout cookies are looking very close to being finished and seeing all cloudy trichomes with a couple amber. I look for 80/20% ratio of cloudy/milky to amber trichomes for harvest as this gives the best medicinal effects from my experiences. Flushing the GSC and will be waiting for her to use up the remainder of her nutrients in the leaves before I chop, hopefully get a nice fade. One of the Stardawg girls isn't so far behind but being more sativa dominant, I expected that. May upload one picture of her and how she is getting on. The smell coming from the GSC is so potent and sweet. Hoping the smoke quality lives up to the smell. Not long to go now.
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So, absolutely against the recommendation I received from a friend of mine who's been growing for 20+ years, I pruned/defoliated my plants up a bit this week. I decided to for a few reasons. - the plants were really dense with foliage, many leaves overlapping and pushing other leaves - most of the bud sites were shaded under several layers of leaves - the leaves pilling up would have been restricting airflow quite a lot, I want to prevent budrot or mold by increasing aeration - I wanted to control where the plants were growing, and focus their energy into the buds - with this being an outdoor grow late in the season with less sun I felt it was more important to expose the developing buds to the sun With all that said, I think my plants have responded extremely well to the pruning in the last few days. I've never pruned or defoliated before so this is going to serve as a test for me. I like doing new things and seeing what happens. No matter what, these plants look really good right now and I'm sure I'll get a decent harvest, I'm trying to push it from decent to fantastic. My PPM is a bit high, though none of the plants look like they're being hindered by it. I did a partial water change on 2 of the 3 (the one in the 3 gallon bucket and the one that looks more like and indica). The 3 gallon bucket plant was at a PPM of 5000ish so I made sure to get it more in line with the other two, and with the partial water change I got it to around 2000. The other plants are sitting at right about 3000. I will continue to monitor the plants and check PPM, if it doesn't go down next week I think I'll do another partial water change. I want to keep pumping in nutrient while preventing any burn or lockout. Trichomes are no observable on the two plants in larger buckets. The smaller bucket plant was the last to sprout, so it's about a week or two behind the others. This week has been pretty poor weather where I'm at. Lots of rain and clouds. I've kept the plants under cover but still in direct sunlight. This coming week is supposed to be clear sky again so I'll move them to capture the most light once the rain stops. I know defoliation is debatable, especially with outdoor grows, but I like to push boundaries. Here's a list of the things I've done with this grow: - kratky method hydroponics (other than a partial water change I have added no water since starting in buckets, no airstone, no pump) - Winter grow (shortest light period of the year here) - Topping (and it looks like one is more like FIMing, also one grew as if it were topped without my input) - Dense nutrient load (I've added more nutrient in this grow than any grow I have previously done. Mostly because I never achieved super large buds and I'm really aiming for that this time) - Water change (like an aquarium, I've never done a water change other than flush before, this week called for it with the high PPM which I think was residual from nutrient loading in veg so I wanted to make sure there's room for the flower nutes) - Defoliation/pruning (nothing too crazy or drastic, started this week and don't plan to trim again unless I see a need to)
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So as we step into week 6 things are starting to shape up nicely Seedsman - strawberry banana grape are fantastic frosty and loads and loads of heads due to me topping Seedsman- peyote gorilla wow I have not smelt bud like it before wonderful and full of thc Inhouse genetics- dolato is one frosty girl and starting to pack on weight Inhouse genetics- platinum gushers 2 different phenos one throwing out more people's red Inhouse genetics- slurrcaine smells like heaven and is the most dankest in my pheno hunt Phoenix seeds - super kush I brought these over from my last run very fast strain and smells really sweet Zamnesia seeds-larry bird kush 3 different phenos all smell different can't wait to see the out come Barney's farm - phantom OG I don't know where to start with this just simply dank Seedsman - bubba kush was a freebie which I didn't care about or take clones and omg its probly one of the best smelling plants I'm running so Im going to reveg it I can't lose this pheno Seedsman - super silver haze OG another freebie what I got and am quite pleased with Last but not least Seedsman- limited edition wedding cake 😋 I'm excited for this one but takes quite long to pack on the weight all in all I'm quite happy
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Welcome to the Green House Company Cup 🏆. Day 41 since time change to 12/12. Hey everyone . It smells better and sweeter every day 😍. Your buds are developing beautifully 😄. The look of the buds is also beautiful. She takes her GHSC Powder Feeding very well, so I'm really excited about the stuff ☺️. Very easy to feed. It doesn't take too long until these beautiful flowers reach their end ✌️🏼. I am very curious how I will like this variety and especially how it will taste 😃. I wish you all a lot of fun with the update, stay healthy 🙏🏻, and let it grow 😛 You can buy this Strain at : https://greenhouseseeds.nl/ ☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼 Green House Seeds Company Cup 🏆 Type: Wonder Pie ☝️🏼 Genetics: Wedding Cake x OG Kush 👍😍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Flower Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205 W 💡💡☝️🏼 Earth: Canna Bio ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Bio Grow Feeding ( GHSC ) , Enhancer ( GHSC ) , Bio Bloom ( GHSC) ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 6.0
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@Reaper
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Start of week 4 I removed the net because of a heatwave a put the plants in a cold room during the night The coockies are now starting week 3 of flower i gave basic nutes everytime they were dry Day 24: the temperatures are perfect (24 celcius) the buds start to show up on all plants
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The Watermelon Candy F1 Hybrid is a real beast... look how beautiful it is, what a flower with a long shape, maturation and very fast growth despite all this quantity of hemp and flower. Super. THERE are mini brunches everywhere and I've had tons of them. The maturation started very early, I had also noticed this on the F1 plants of RQS, very often these ultra fast flowering girls start to put out red pistils when you don't expect it but that's the type of rapid maturation of these plants. I'll tell you again about doing the math. Problem: a Watermelon candi from seed to harvest takes about two months, how many cycles of watermelon candy can you make in a year which, I remind you, lasts 12 months? And how many cycles can you do with the average autoflowering that lasts 3 months? And how many with photoperiodic ones that last even longer? If it doesn't seem like much, learn to count. Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful, big congratulations to Zammi. https://www.zamnesia.io/en/10666-zamnesia-seeds-watermelon-candy-f1-automatic.html Video Reel Coming soon on Sunday Food by Plagron https://plagron.com/en Light www.viparspectra.com/ Tent & Air www.secretjardin.com Music of the week www.radionula.com +++ 432 hz frequencies to keep in line my Girls to Gaia. Site Description ZAMNESIA SEEDS - WATERMELON CANDY F1 HYBRID AUTOMATIC: BUDS BURSTING WITH FLAVOR If you've been looking for a flavorful strain with superb genetics that's effortless to cultivate, the hunt is over. Thanks to reliable F1 hybrid genetics, Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic showcases the highest degree of productivity and efficiency. This strain takes everything you know and love about the original, and packages it in a plant with even greater potential. GROWING WATERMELON CANDY F1 HYBRID AUTOMATIC Derived from Watermelon, Candy Kush, and ruderalis, Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic is a finely tuned medley of genetics. This cultivar is fast to flourish and reliable to grow, no matter where you choose to grow. Taking just 9–10 weeks from germination to harvest, she provides a uniform growing experience culminating in a huge haul of buds for her size. Reaching heights of 65–80cm, Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic stays pretty grounded, making her perfect for smaller growing areas where space is a commodity. It also means you can fit more plants in if you have the room! Once ready to yield, growers will see a return of 400–450g/m² indoors and up to 100g/plant outdoors. Moreover, Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic is highly resistant to pests and disease, making it an ideal strain for newcomers and fans of low-maintenance cultivation. AROMAS, FLAVORS, AND EFFECTS OF WATERMELON CANDY F1 HYBRID AUTOMATIC If we haven't already sold you on the power of F1 hybrid genetics, the proof is in the pudding. Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic is teaming with terpenes and cannabinoids, making for a lively high coupled with huge flavors. Just one hit is all it takes to sample rich fruitiness mixed with sweet candies and a slight earthiness to back it up. And with an average THC content of 23%, the effects are euphoric at the start but settle into deep relaxation soon after. Whether you're chilling alone or with friends, Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic will see you right. So seeds of all brands, in addition to these great F1 Hybrids and the entire Zamnesia line, fertilizers and everything related to the world of cannabis, you should buy them from the best online store in the sector www.zamnesia.io