Kickass auto 85.day harvest Critical widow bloom 56 / overdrive 3.dose/ I'm thinking of harvesting next week / Süper silver haze bloom 56 / overdrive 2.dose / 2 weeks until harvest Jack herer bloom 49 - overdrive 3.dose / I'm thinking of harvesting next week 🌿

Bushy little mama. Removed the tobacco plants as they were taking over the tent. She is on her lonesome now so she can make full use of the space available. Looking like she needs some defoliation pretty soon. 3/10 Gave her a radical defoliation. Took away about 85% of all the larger fan leaves and some lower canopy growth. I want all the plants energy to go into flowering and developing large kolas. Don't expect the auto clone to get much bigger, so won't be potting up, but she may produce a decent kola.

Removed damaged leaves from DinaMed CBD Plus (DC+). Refreshed res'. Using Alaskan Organic Bloom to control my PH till the massive rises stop. Close now. Put another air line and stone into both buckets. Seems to help. Adding Microbe tea (formula below) as well as Hygrozyme and Advanced Nutrients Tarantula. Adding Alaskan Bloom not only helps the PH but feeds the microbes. Brewing tea also helps chelation of the metal micro nutrients as well as converting Humic acid to Fulvic acid which is easier for the plant to uptake. Dinamed Plus from Dinafem Seeds (1) and Blueberry Headband (1)from Humboldt Seeds. https://www.dinafem.org/en/dinamed-cbd-plus/ https://www.humboldtseeds.net/en/blueberry-headband/ Lighting https://www.horticulturelightinggroup.ca/products/260w-qb-v2-led-kit DWC Nutients https://generalhydroponics.com/floraseries FloraGro 1 ml/l FloraBloom .5 ml/l FloraMicro 1 ml/l Diamond Nectar: N/A https://generalhydroponics.com/diamond-nectar Cal Mag: 2 ml/l https://generalhydroponics.com/calimagic SuperThrive: .5 ml/l https://superthrive.com/ https://hylineproducts.com/products/hygrozyme/#one Grozyme: 2.5 ml/ltr Tarantula https://www.advancednutrients.com/products/tarantula/ Epsom salts Root Rot Tea 8 liters RO water 5 ml (1 tsp) organic sulphur free molasses 5 ml Alaskan Organic grow fertilizer (or something comparable) 5 ml Alaskan bloom fertilizer (or something comparable) 5 ml Seaweed or kelp fertilizer Handful of composted horse pucky Worm castings, sea soil, Gaia General Purpose and Bat Guano Phosphate optional * add after brewing 2-4 ml Advanced Nutrients Tarantula

I soak the Root Riot cubes in their own Clonex solution and feed them with the rest until it's gone

End of Week 13 (6 week of flower) Cruise control on! Trying to make sure the environment is 100% in check, and I made a very light compost tea with some molasses and worm castings and a little bit of bone meal just to give them a calcium boost and some extra sugars so they can flourish into their final couple of weeks of flower. I have been keeping a cooler average temperature - and also keeping the relative humidity lower. Pest Report: None

Woche 12: Sie Blühen schön vor sich hin, aktuell sehe ich wenig Veränderung, die Blätter haben etwas Braune spitzen bekommen, eventuell wegen der Trauermücken, die Larven gehen die Wurzeln an. Ich habe bereits Nematoden bestellt und werde diese in die Erde geben soweit diese da sind. Licht Stas: 12h: 82,3 DLI / mol/m^2/d 1.839 PPFD umol/m^2/s 53000 LUX

Day 29: Soil moisture seems fine. No need to add water yet. Day 30: Nothing spectacular to report. Soil still sufficiently moist. Day 31: Nothing remarkable to report Day 32: Houston, we have a problem! Added another gallon of water pH 6.5 with nutrients. I was surprised that the soil held moisture for so long. Felt very wrong. I raised the light. With the growth, it was only about 10 inches above the canopy. It is now closer to 20 inches above the plant. What is that leaf tip turning brown? Day 33: Nothing remarkable to report Day 34: No photograph Day 35: Adding 10 TBL of Nectar for the Gods One Shot to soil. Began training. I think this would be considered LST. One tent peg gives support at the bend. One tent pen is holding it bent over.

We’ve got an aphid problem that I recently discovered, probably from my own laziness. Walking between the outdoor and indoor garden doesn’t help. Treated with water/ neem oil and dish soap. I will continue this until they have been eradicated. Growth is still amazingly quick. Kind leds have been raised and the X-420 is set to 100% full spectrum with 25% UV/IR.

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Day 50 since seed touched soil. From now on all is in stable position. Twins always will be in center, looks sad a bit, was needing watering maybe yesterday before lights off, missed few hours for not making them droopy. 5 liters went in, want good run off and saturation. Later today will install second level of scrog. Reposition all shoots, some are lost, i almost regret instaling scrog, lost control of even height a bit, but canopy is very dense, branches went fatter during that week, i am happy . Mars TSL2000 is on 80% will increase to 90% at the end of this week. Day 53. Second level of scrog almost eaten, will have to make third, plus heavy clearing awaits next week ... Day 54. Think tomorrow is watering day. Girls need good clearing, bottom canopy been canibalised heavily, lack off air shows a lot. Will do third level of scrog together with watering. Day 55. Twins are thirsty !!! They are very sensitive , yesterday all good, pot still heavy for a day and today they look like this, pot light ;))) will recover in few hours. Watered, did light cleaning before, only bottoms and shoots with 0 chance to make it ... Watering exposed new roots, plant occupies top up lair fast ! Happy Growing !!!

🌸 Flowering Week 4 – Blütenaufbau & erste Harzbildung Jetzt begann der eigentliche Blütenaufbau. Die Buds wurden dichter, die Kelche fingen an zu stacken. Erste Harzansätze waren sichtbar, besonders an den Zuckerblättern. Der Geruch entwickelte sich bereits leicht – erste Anklänge von Zitrus und Cheese. Die Pflanze wirkte stabil und vital. Ende der 4. Woche das letzte Große entlauben. Mein Weihnachtsgeschenk, der spiderfarmer bodensensor, ist auch direkt zum Einsatz gekommen.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

Buenas noches familia, os aseguro que es sorprendente el cambio de olores que pego en una semana, es un olor muy fuerte , y todavía quedan semanas, que miedo da esta variedad, tiene buen porte y se ve que va salir potente. En tan solo 5,5 litros tenemos un plantón híbrido con toques índicos en su forma y sativas en su tamaño y forma de las hojas. La floración es bastante rápida estamos viendo controlando temperaturas y humedades, todo está dentro de los parámetros correctos. Destacamos la densidad de sus flores y lo compactas que se forman entre sí, promete.

🌱Fox farm Grow big and Big bloom. 🌱 Defoliated 8 days ago 🌱 Gonna tuck for the next 15 days 🌱 Will defoliate again in 20 days

Top dressed with 1.5 Tbls of Terp Tea Bloom and Microraza. Watered in with rain water, blended aloe leaf, & Fish Sh!t. 1/2 gallon each, no runoff.

Yyyyyyyyyuyyyyy

Im now giving her the ripen for 10 days then after a 3 day flush we harvest boys