Sorry but something bad happened in my life and I couldn't share the photos before

This is another strain that is going full force and in both technical/free versions, we are talking about the Zookies Automatic by Zamnesia. Remember that we are growing a plant worked with the techniques indicated and another left to grow without pruning to preserve its speed; in the previous/next diary you will find the other plant of the same variety. In this diary we find a plant worked with a precise and punctual Main Lining: We have a topping at the third internode, an accompaniment of the growing branches towards the third internode and then toppiong again, everything lowered well with our metal arches. I saw the side branches go very high and I topped again to have more branches at the end, everything very clean underneath. Comparison is the salt of the experience, so the plant in the other diary will be treated very differently, go and see it to make a comparison. We started the Plagron fertilization program, we are in 100% organic configuration, the soil is made up of recycled Promix + 1/3 fresh soil + 10% Perlite + RQS Mycorrhizae Mix (4 g in the mix, 1 g under the small fiber pot). In the middle of the week the pre-flowering started so I decided to start the program for this phase: 1 ml/l of Power Roots - 1 ml/l of Pure Zym - 1 ml/l of Sugar Royal - 1 ml/l of Power Buds - 4 ml/l of Alga Bloom Remember the Green Sensation from the 3rd/4th week of flowering depending on the flowering speed or how you see the calyxes composing, when the calyx is in the swelling phase it is used. We sprayed 5 ml/l of Vita Race foliar fertilizer once a week. ------------------------------------------------- https://plagron.com/it We always have the excellent RQS mycorrhizae running through the soil. https://www.zamnesia.io/it/5778-mix-micorrhiza-easy-roots.html Is a top strain of the last few years very high level of thc ---- https://www.zamnesia.io/it/11174-zamnesia-seeds-zookies-auto.html Brief description of Zamnesia // The result of the cross between Animal Cookies, GG#4 and ruderalis, this compact variety produces top quality buds, maintaining all the charm of a modern US hybrid. Thanks to the hard work of the Zamnesia genetics team, Zookies Automatic is easy to grow, fast flowering and exceptionally vigorous. Regardless of whether you grow indoors, outdoors or in a greenhouse, if you are looking for a stable autoflowering strain that is quick to harvest, Zookies Automatic is definitely the one for you. Like all Zamnesia autoflowers, Zookies Auto promises rapid harvests of top-quality bud with minimal effort. And she delivers on that promise. After germination, Zookies Automatic plants grow vigorously for around 3–4 weeks. At the end of the pre-flowering phase, plants typically reach a height of between 90–110cm, depending on the size of the pot. The whole world of cultivation and much more is on Zamnesia: just take a look at the site and you will find "all the best that nature has to offer" in various shapes and colors. --------------- www.zamnesia.com

Day 75. She’s huge and in the dark ice flushing. She smells amazing. I can not wait! 🎂🎂🎂🎂 we also added another meet Mortimer

20.06 25. Day 30 Took some leaves off lower part of plant. Used plant training clips to bend branches in effort to LST. I will update tomorrow. One love 🏼

Memes for the fastbuds meme contest Memes for the fastbuds meme contest Memes for the fastbuds meme contest Memes for the fastbuds meme contest

Lovely start and lovely end to week 1

Resistant plants. Takes a lot of nutrients. Solid strain.

Deepforest Super auto is growing great. She has been thriving and making a lot of progress. I delayed her solution change she has been doing so well. I will likely have to in about a week. I did her first lst and selective defoliation on her today. She is looking good. I did turn tge light down from 40 percent to about 30. She seemed to be growing stocky. I want her to reach a little more. I know there is still lots of growth to come. Everything is going great. Thank you Spider Farmer, Athena, and Doctor's Choice. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g.

hace tiempo tenia ganas de cultivar esta cepa, de buen crecimiento y aroma dulce. muy buena produccion de cogollos y resina, resistio muy bien algunos problemas al inicio del cultivo en la poda apical y posterior LST, buena cepa para LST muy frondosa

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Und auch hier erst in Woche fünf statt sechs

So since this is my first time growing weed in any form or way I do not have a lot of knowledge. I have been growing this strain since the 4th of june and I think it is going very good, In my opinion at least. 😊 I do not use any nutritions but i do make sure my water is the right PH. What I am wondering about tho is the way it is growing. I feel like for the weeks they are in they should be bigger? Any suggestions on what I should do or change about my routine for growing larger and bigger yields? Much love, Nien 😘

Erntedankfest, der Tag der Tage ist gekommen. Man muss auch mal dankbar sein was Muttererde einem so schenkt. Ich bin sehr zufrieden mit dem Ergebnis. Wird jetzt im Küchenschrank aufgehangen und getrocknet. Im Anschluss gibt's noch ein Update :). Peace Out!

This genetic's is awsome 😎 i will try and grow it again for sure💯 She grow's very fast, and with the propper setup, I think it can be a high yielder for sure💪 I did some LST to keep them from getting too high👍🌱💚 Something I did along the way, made them a little bit unhappy, and they got some dry leaves i had to remove.😬 But in the end i am just happy they finished up💯🌱💚

Week 21: August 16 2020 - August 22 2020 Great week, weather-wise except for some strong winds in the middle of the week. Some branches and leaves took some damage and went a little limp, but they all seem to have bounced back. Still more yellowing, I'm pulling dead leaves off the plants pretty much every day. I know it's natural and it has been a bit cooler at night recently, but I'm still a little bit concerned. Other than that, new growth is coming in strong, has a nice green color, and the little buds look healthy so far. First full week of flower under the belt. Thanks for stopping by. Cheers!

7/27 My phone ran out of storage and wouldn't let me take a video. I tried deleting several other videos bit that didn't work either. Finally I wad able to upload a few RANDOM pictures from the "website" camera. But no video. Everything looked so beautiful tjis morning too. Not watering was the right choice. I defoliated a couple septoria leaves on the reveg 10th planet that wad about to receive its third dose of Plant Doctor. The chem dog #4 and mk ultra this will be their second treatment. Seeing the positive impact of the product and finding a few septoria leaves I decided to treat every plant in the garden with plant doctor. I'm still going to do the diy Dr. Zymes but Plant Doctor had been working good and I want to suppress as much as possible. Everything looks great. I started by giving the thirstiest plants a half gallon of water. I then did a root drench of 3tsp per gallon on every plant but the 10gal. A gallon of solution was used on each plant. I really feel like this is a good mood. Previously AFTER I applied Plant Doctor the plants would have a noticeable positive effect shortly after. I'm hoping this will be the case here. I think stretch has stopped. I have one special Kush that has buds already but EVERYTHING is in early flower. I'll fix the phone and get a video up there. EDIT: WENT BACK AROUND ONE TO DO A LITTLE DEFOLIATION. EVERYTHING LOOKS REALLY GOOD TO ME. I DID DEFOLIATE A COUPLE SEPTORIA LEAVES. BUT REMOVING A LEAF OR TWO FROM A MONSTER REVEG IS NOTHING. REALISTICALLY I SHOULD BE REMOVING MORE FOR BETTER AIR FLOW. THATS SOMETHING ILL NEED TO DO. SO HAPPY THINGS ARE DOING GOOD. EVERYTHING IS IN VARIOUS STAGES OF FLOWER. NEXT FEED ILL BE USING A BLOOM NUTRIENT. NOT SURE BUT PROBABLY LIQUID KOOL BLOOM. 7/28 Didn't have much time this morning. I've got a wife with medical problems and I'm trying to redue my house before the end of the summer so I'm busy to say the least. Still no pm. Not many pests either. The rose bushes behind them have been DEMOLISHED by jpn beetles. I see no negative active reactions from treating everything with plant doctor 3tsp/gallon. The first plant I treated with it was that 10th planet and its gotten three treatments and looks great. I'll get a spot here or there once in a while but for the most part it's supressed. I have some pruning to do. Everything os in early flower but that one special kush is pretty far ahead. EDIT: SINCE IT WAS MID 80S I WENT OVER AROUND 1 TO CHECK THE GIRLS. THEY LOOKED GREAT. I DEFOLIATED A COUPLE SEPTORIA LEAVES BUT ONLY A COUPLE. I STOPPED AT A LOCAL SHOP AND SHOWED MY BUDDY A VIDEO. HE SAID TO NEVER SPRAY ANYTHING WITH LEAF SEPTORIA WITH "ANYTHING" BECAUSE OF HOW IT SPREADS. I DIDNT MENTION THE CONTRADICTORY EVIDENCE THAT I'VE FOUND IN MY RESEARCH BUT HEY. HE HASNT LED ME WRONG. PLANT DOCTOR SEEMS TO BE DOING THE JOB. THAT AND DEFOLIATING ANYTHING I SEE. IVE WORKED TOO HARD TO LOSE THEM TO A DISEASE THAT MAINLY EFFECTS THE LEAVES. PLANT DOCTOR WILL KEEP IT SUPPRESSED. 7/29 Today is supposed to be really hot. In the 90's. I watered everything a gallon except the thirstier plants got 1.5 and the 10's got 1/2 gallon. I defoliated a few septoria leaves. I'm sure there will be a few more after watering. Instead of alleviating my concerns my buddy kinda got in my head with the septoria talk. Things will be fine. Everything LOOKS gorgeous. He even said, "They look really good and healthy" and "not to get complacent defoliating." The plant in the 50 seems to be worse off than the others. I'll keep an eye on it but if I got spots near the sugar leaves I might just cut that little runt. This was all preventable too. Person mowing the lawn BLEW DISEASED GRASS, SHRUBS AND BIRD SEED IN MY CAGE RIGHT AFTER TRANSPLANT. I legit had to dig out at least a dozen sunflowers or other seeds that sprouted. Realistically things will be fine. The plant I've been treating for three weeks with plant doctor looks great. So do the others. Everything looks good. I just get occasional leaves I previously would've overlooked or attributed to something else. As long as I can keep it suppressed enough through flower I'm good. Anything that isn't good enough will go towards extracts. EDIT: WENT OVER AROUND ONE. A COUPLE PLANTS IN TJE BACK THAT I WATERED FASTER WERE LIGHT SO I SPLIT A GALLON WITH THEM. THE 10TH PLANET THAT HAS GOTTEN THE FULL PLANT DOCTOR TREATMENT IS DOING AWESOME. I DID HAVE TO DEFOLIATE A HANDFUL OF LEAVES. HONESTLY I THINK IVE PROBABLY HAD THIS YEARS PRIOR AND DIDNT RECOGNIZE IT. IM PRAYING EVERYTHING WORKS OUT. IM DOING MY PART. I'M GOING TO HAVE TO DO SOME MORE RESEARCH. 7/30 Came over to the 10th planet plant in the front row all the way in the back was drooped all down and is yellowing up pretty good. I defoliated what I could and gave it a gallon and a half of water. I defoliated any sep leaves I could find. If that plant foesnt pick up like they normally do I may need to ditch the plant. If it continues to get yellow and look unhealthy I'd rather get rid of it than risk more damage. It was light as a feather so I assume it will be fine. I'll update as I go. Everything else looked good though. EDIT: DESPITE IMMENSE ANXIETY I GOT THAT FEELING SO I WENT AND CHECKED THEM. THE ONE I WATERED DID PICK BACK UP BUT IT HAS A LOT OF YELLOW LEAVES. THE 10TH PLANET THATS DOING GOOD WAS BONE DRY AND STARTING TO DROOP. I GAVE IT 1.5 GALLONS. THE HUGE MK ULTRA ALSO WAS STARTING TO DROP AND LIGHT AS A FEATHER. I GAVE THAT A FULL WATERING CAN WHICH IS DAMN NEAR 2 GALLONS. THE REST WILL GET WATERED TOMORROW. NO SIGN OF SEP THIS TIME. I WASNT THERE LONG BUT STILL. THE OTHER PLANTS WERE LOOKING GOOD AND ALL PRAYING TO THE SUN. TOMORROW ILL WATER AND FEED. 7/31 Came over this morning to one of my plants on the 10 drooped right over. I shouldve watered it yesterday when I did the others that were light. Coincidentally the three that needed the water were the 3 revegs. I watered what didn't get it yesterday with a gallon each. I then fed everything a powerade bottle. Started liquid kool bloom today. We shall see how that goes. I defoliated quite a few leaves. I think I may have had sep in the past on some plants and just didn't notice. Plants still look good but I keep a good eye on them. And I defoliate a lot. I've taken my buddies advice and not sprayed anything. I don't really have any pests. A pillar here or there or a "A" cricket or jpn beetle. Of there is one four eyed plant bug but I can't seem to kill it. I've almost caught it a couple times. Anyway like usual I'll keep this updated. 7/30 Girls looked good this morning. I has to water the 10th planet in the front back and one of the 10s. Defoliated a few yellow leaves and picked off a couple sep leaves. It rained a little and I'm really surprised that I haven't seen MORE sep leaves. These girls are resilient. One more day and it's plant Dr day. That 10th planet that has had 3 treatments and will just receive its first "preventative dose" after the three big ones is doing amazing. That one special kush I the front is flowering much faster than anything else. I'm grateful for what I have.