Looks like a sunny week this week, have taken the lowest branches off the ones that appeared at the first node. Rearranged greenhouse so plant gets direct sunlight’s from 8:30-18:30 each day

D64. We're at the start of the fourth week of flower, and today was a busy day. First, I had to remove the old lights before swapping in the light from my auto tent. All while trying to avoid trashing the plants in the way too full tent. Not an easy task. The entire mission, with changing the light in the auto tent as well, took a couple of hours. I wish I could keep the Greenception lights in the tent as they're high-quality lights, but the Kingbrite has a much lower profile and thus takes up much less space. Space that I desperately need considering how insanely much these girls stretched. One of the tops on the second girl has unfortunately already been bunt by being too close to the light, and I'm sure I will run into light bleaching and probably foxtailing as the grow progress, but I hope I will be able to pull it off with the Kingbrite light. I also added some wire support to the branches that I super-cropped, as they looked somewhat sad after all the abuse to the canopy while swapping the lights. ------------------------------ D66. It looks like the girls have FINALLY stopped stretching. Phew! Yesterday, I gave each girl 2.5 liters of water @ pH 6.2 with humic acid and EM-1. Today, the green lacewing larvae (Chrysoperla Carnea) arrived, and I dispersed them in the tent to deal with the thrips. ------------------------------ D68. All is well in the tent, but now when the thrips are (hopefully) under control, it's time to address the VPD. It has gotten seriously out of wack due to dropping temps, plus I increased the humidity to make the environment more inhospitable for the thrips. The temps were low due to the light change as the new one is running a lot cooler, but the temps have also dropped outside. The heating in the lungroom has been off until now, so I turned that on and lowered the humidity threshold on my exhaust fan. Finally, I put my small humidifier in the tent, generating extra heat and decreasing the humidity. So far, the VPD has increased from a terrible 0.4-0.5 to an acceptable 0.9, and I'm hoping it will increase further as the ambient RH drops as we move into winter. ------------------------------ D70. We're at the end of the fourth week of flower, and all is well in the tent. The VPD has gone up to 1.0, which is a nice improvement to what it was only a couple of days ago. I haven't scouted yet for thrips, but I will give the lacewings a couple of days to do their thing and then look closer. However, I went to WAR against the spider mites we have in our ornamental plants in the apartment. I sprayed all plants with my homemade pesticide (capsaicin, alcohol, horticultural soap.) since I had it at hand. If that fails to knock the spider mites back, I'll bring out the neem oil instead. The infestations aren't bad (yet), but it would suck to get mites into my tents, so better to be proactive. ------------------------------

420Fastbuds-LemonCherryRuntz These 3 lovely ladies are growing good. We've had a few summer storms come through the last few days, over all besides getting a good shower they never skipped a beat. Happy Growing

This is the girl's final week. The wife will be happy the stink is coming to an end. Will be stripping off all the useless leaves at this point, getting them ready for a quick trim. The ppm in the planters is down under 200 ppm now Kannabia genetics made these easy to grow. I had no problems growing these 3 different strains out. They all flourished except for 2 of the smaller ladies. They were a little overfed as I treat all girls in the tent with equal amounts of everything. Those girls still did well, just not as well as their bigger sisters. The Kritical will be coming down first as most of the pistols have oranged over and the trichs are clouded over. The Super OG will be the next to come down. The buds on these girls are so hard I think you could knock someone out, if you through it at someone's head lol.... The Hellfire OG will be the last to come down as their still throwing pistols. Mostly still white and gaining more weight. I gave 3 of the seeds to my bud and he grew his out under cmh lighting. Plants stayed much more compact and he just finished his trimming. Under the HID the plants get much larger and buds twice the size. I gave him the same feed my girls got through his entire grow, mixed and ready for him, so it was mostly lighting that made the difference. My climate controls are also much better, but he is very happy with the amount he trimmed from each plant. Grade A looking weed for sure.... Thanks for the looks and like my frinds. 🙏

We finally made it ladies and gentlemen. It is an honor to introduce you to the beautiful Lady Wedding Cake and the beautiful Cookies Kush twins. Even though I'm pretty sure cookies kush #1 would have needed another week, she had to go under the knife and was finished just in time for the super bowl. we also need the space now for the next round of the Eternity Grow Cup. Next Stop Zami Runtz and Blue Gelato 41

Que dire mise à part que se strain est tous simplement magnifique ? Il porte bien son nom, il commence à être bien Frosty! Et la couleur violet commence à apparaître de plus en plus! Les bud sont beau et dégagent une belle odeur fruité, le plant a une sacré couverture résineuse, je pense qu’elle pourrais être parfaite pour faire des extraction! Cette semaine je lui ai donné un thé de compost oxygéné, on va voir comment elle va réagir. Recette du tco pour 20 litres. (Grammes : gr) 50gr biochar 250gr zéolite 3gr granulé Micro-Organisme IT45 10gr pollen d’abeilles 10gr levure de bière 3gr endomychorize 10gr consoude 20gr vers de farine 10gr cendre coque de ricin 12gr ortie microniser 15gr Kelp 10gr spiruline 10gr de cbd living soil 20ml de miel liquide 30ml de mélasse 20ml d’acide humiques et fluvic Mettre tous les ingrédients (sauf la mélasse ,l’acide h/f et le miel) dans un filtre 400micron, le placer dans un seau avec de l’eau (10litres). Rajoutez le miel et 10ml de mélasse Y mettre un micro bulleur alimenter sur une pompe à air et faire oxygéné le mélange pendant 24h. Rajout de 10ml de mélasse après 12h le début de la mise en route de la pompe. A la fin des 24h rajoutez le restant de mélasse et d’acide h/f, mettez y en plus 10litres d’eau au mélange. Reste plus qu’à arroser! Pour la Frosty j’y ai incorporé 7litre de mélange La veille j’ai préparé le pot à l’arrosage avec 500ml d’eau et 2gr de Bacillus IT35 Amyloliquefaciens X5 Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens : rhyzosphère, probiotiques. Aspersion et arrosage. Utilisable pour toutes cultures. La bactérie Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens se fixe dans la rhizosphère en se nourrissant des exsudats racinaires. En contrepartie, elle stimule la croissance racinaire en sécrétant des métabolites de croissance et solubilise le phosphore en sécrétant des phytases (enzymes). Effet probiotique consistant en l’utilisation de micro-organismes bénéfiques pour la nutrition et la santé des plantes. La spiruline, le plus riche et le plus complet des amendements organiques La Spiruline est une algue aquatique connue comme complément alimentaire, la Spiruline est aussi un amendement organique et écologique très complet. D'une grande qualité nutritive, elle apporte à vos plantes une quantité de nutriments, dont l'azote, phosphore, potassium, minéraux, acides aminés, vitamines, chlorophylle et protéine. Le charbon végétal actif est capable d’absorber jusqu’à cinq fois son poids propre en eau ainsi que les éléments nutritifs qui s’y trouvent. Il joue ainsi le rôle de catalyseur et d'amplificateur pour les fertilisants traditionnels, qu'ils soient d'origine organique ou minérale. Ce pourquoi il est idéal pour activer un sol et pour les thés de compost oxygénés. Le charbon végétal améliore la diffusion et la disponibilité des éléments nutritifs dans le sol et offre des conditions propices au développement des micro-organismes. Le Biochar peut être introduit dans une grande variété de sols. Il est particulièrement efficace dans les sols pauvres, difficiles et acides. Pour faire agir rapidement et efficacement sa capacité d’amendement, le charbon végétal est enrichi et biologiquement activé avec des micro-organismes. Le Biochar se comporte ainsi comme un structurateur et un activateur dans le but de valoriser les sols. Composition : • Charbon végétal actif 31%
• Matière organique 33%
• Matière sèche 75%
• C/N : 17
• PH : 7,2
• Azote (N) : 2,1 % dont 1,2 % azote organique
• Phosphore (P205) : 0,74%
• Potassium (K20) : 1,18%
• Calcium (Ca) : 6,8%
• Magnésium (MgO) : 0,65% Le pollen est l'ingrédient de base de la fabrication du miel par les abeilles. Riche en vitamines et minéraux, il est qualifié « d'aliment parfait », y compris pour les plantes ! Les zéolithes sont des roches cristallines, présentant des capacités d'adsorption particulièrement importantes vis à vis des polluants que l'on rencontre dans l'eau et dans certains liquides, ainsi que dans l'air et les gaz. Elles sont extrêmement poreuses comme les charbons activés et elles peuvent être chargées électriquement pour opérer comme des échangeurs d'ions. La zéolithe est un produit naturel qui respecte notre environnement. Utilisé dans le milieu industriel depuis de longues années déjà, ce minerai aux propriétés filtrantes particulières commence à se vulgariser dans le domaine de la piscine privée, de l'aquariophilie, des bassins d'agrément, de la récupération des eaux de pluie, ou encore de la culture des bonsaïs et autres plantations diverses par exemple... 4 points techniques majeurs : - Grâce à leur propriété hydrophile, les zéolithes peuvent adsorber l'eau jusqu'à 30% de leur poids total et sans aucune variation de volume : pas de gonflement en présence d'eau ni de craquement en cas de déshydratation comme certaines argiles. Les zéolithes sont d'ailleurs de puissants agents anti-mottant (anti-agglomérant). Cette propriété est très appréciée dans le cas des terrains de golf et autres aires de jeux. - Les zéolithes ne captent pas l'eau de façon irréversible, elles se comportent comme une réserve au voisinage des racines. Celles-ci peuvent capter l'eau en fonction de leur besoin. Les zéolithes permettent ainsi de réduire les besoins d'arrosage jusqu'à 35 %. - Une zéolithe se comporte comme une "Zone de Stockage" qui retient l'azote et les éléments minéraux nutritifs au voisinage des racines et les relâche lentement en fonction des besoins de la plante. Cela se traduit par une croissance harmonieuse mais rapide du végétal. - La capacité d'adsorption et l'énorme rapport surface/volume des zéolithes, vont permettre à la fois la rétention de la solution du sol et une bonne oxygénation au voisinage du système racinaire. Les zéolithes favorisent donc l'organisation biologique des sols en contribuant au développement de la micropopulation. L'apport en nutriments (N, P, K) est réduit de 20 à 25 %. Ces derniers, adsorbés par la zéolithe, sont beaucoup moins sensibles au lessivage et à l'évaporation. Composition minéralogique : * Chabasite 70 % * Phillipsite 2 % * Feldspath 5 % * Augite 3 % * Illite - Mica 2% Analyse atomique: * Sio2 52 % * AL2o3 17 % * CaO 5,7 % * K2O 6,1 % * MgO 2 %, * Na2O 0,6 % * Fe2O3 3,6 % Amendement calcaire, dolomie et gypse avec préparation microbienne à base de Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens IT45 et Saccharomyces cerevisiae LYCC6420 Formulation : micro granulés (1 – 1,6 mm) à base de rhizobactéries favorisant la croissance des plantes qui se multiplient et colonisent rapidement la zone des racines, et de levures Saccharomyces cerevisiae souche LYCC ayant un effet probiotique. Les PGPR produisent des enzymes qui solubilisent le phosphore à partir de complexes inorganiques et organiques dans le sol et stimulent la croissance des racines efficaces augmentant ainsi la zone d'interception des éléments nutritifs. Les levures LYCC permettent une occupation de la rhizosphère par une flore bénéfique. Composition :
• Matière sèche : 96,8%
• Matière organique : 91,5%
• N total : 6,6% dont N soluble dans l'eau 0,17%
• P total : 2%
• K total : 1,7% Micro-granulés : 
• Oxyde de calcium (CaO) total : 30%
• Oxyde de magnesium (MgO) total : 7%
• Anhydride sulfurique (SO3) : 13% La levure de bière est une matière vivante qui permet un meilleur fermentation pour les thés de compost oxygénés notamment conseillé pour accompagner les croissances ou apporter un gros coup de pousse pendant la floraisons.  La levure stimule la vie des sols également à l'arrosage direct en apportant tout aussi bien que dans le TCO sa population l'espèce micro-bactérienne positive pour votre sols ainsi que des oligo-éléments et diverse vitamines.   Composition : • 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), • 2,3% (P205) • 1,6% (K20) • 35% de MO • C/N : 8. PH : 8,4. Sous forme de poudre mouillable. Il contient des spores du champignon mycorhizien Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 avec des levures inactivées spécifiques. 2000 spores/gramme d’endomycorhize Rhizophagus Irregularis MUCL57891 et Saccharomyces Cerevisiae LYC6420 inactivée. Se connecte efficacement au système racinaire et forme un vaste réseau souterrain de filaments, qui agissent comme des extensions pour atteindre les nutriments et l’eau au-delà de la rhizosphère Composition : • Poudre contenant 2000 spores/g. d’endomycorhizes Rhizophagus irregularis  La Consoude (Symphytum Officinale) est une plante présentant de nombreuses propriétés. Particulièrement riche en Potassium (K) organique, la consoude est une alliée idéale pour les périodes de floraison. La consoude a tout pour plaire : riche en vitamine B12, elle agira également comme stimulateur racinaire, mais aussi comme biostimulant cellulaire, grâce aux alcaloïdes, aux allantoïnes et jusqu'à 30% de protéine ! 100% déjection de vers de ténébrions.
Très riche en microorganismes, le guano de vers de farine est une matière directement composté par les vers. En effet, c'est bien la digestion de matières végétales par des larves, insectes ou autres arthropodes qui valident le processus de compostage, que ce soit en zone de production de cultures d'insectes, pour le compost maison ou la dégradation de litière forestière. Les bactéries et autres champignons obtenus grâce au système digestif de nos vers, permettent la dégradation accélérée des éléments nutritifs dans vos supersoils, et les symbioses permettant l'assimilation des éléments nutritifs. Cette bio-activation intense mettra dans vos sols, à la disposition de vos plantes, un panel tellement varié de nutriments frais qu'il nous est aujourd'hui technologiquement impossible de pouvoir tous les nommer et de les compter.  Le guano de vers de farine fournit une grande polyvalence. Très équilibré, il s'utilise en entretien ou en apport ciblé seul ou en complément de d'autres amendements ou fertilisants organiques. Il agit comme un puissant activateur de sol et/ou de substrat. Cendre coque de ricin NPK 0,1-18,6-16,5. 0,1% (N-Azote), 18,6% (P205-Phosphore), 16,5% (K2O-Potasse), 11,7%(Ca0), 9,1 (Mg0) - Origine : Inde ACTION SOL • rend rapidement accessible au sol Phosphore, Potasse, Magnésium et Calcium. ACTION PLANTE • Apport aux stades agronomiques propices. • Produit riche en éléments fertilisants : combinaison NPK 35%. • Régularité de l’apport, milieu et fin de floraison. . Favorise la sénescence. Analyse chimique : • NPK 0,1-18,6-16,5 • N-Azote 0.1% • P205-Phosphore 18,6% • K2O-Potasse 16,5% • CaO-Calcium 11,7% • MgO-Magnésium 9,1% Ortie bio micronisée Stimule la vie du sol et la végétation. Composition : • 2,8% (N) total dont 1% (Norg), • 2,3% (P205) • 1,6% (K20) • 35% de MO • C/N : 8. PH : 8,4 KELP poudre
ascophyllum nodosum
- amendement sol Croissance et floraison - Meilleure germination - Meilleur développement racinaire Meilleure assimilation - Résistance aux stress osmotiques - Augmente la production de chlorophylle = plantes plus vertes = lumière mieux captée - Lutte contre le stress osmotique - Développement des Micro-Organismes dans le sol – Riche en vitamines, fer, iode, oligo-éléments, hormones de croissance auxines et cytokinines - Idéal en épandage et pour les thés de compost oxygénés. Important : notre Kelp est un goémon noir mais il n'est pas le varech bien moins fertile de la même famille qui est l'algue qui pullule et pollue la Bretagne, notre algue pousse uniquement à plus de 50 mètres de fond dans les grands courants froids au large de la Norvège.

Chasing the Ph down the rabbit hole. These ho's drinking a gallon a day. Had to add a float valve to keep up. Soaked her in adjusted RO water to clean the salts off. 30ml gro 20ml micro 10ml bloom 25ml cm

Como podemos ver ya todas están para el corte o casi, en algunas tendré que seleccionar el pheno, ya que hay alguna que me gusto más que la otra, en general un terpeno muy diferente en cada variedad y también la calidad de la resina, en general mucha resina, pero por ejemplo he podido observas que los tricomas de la Gorilla Melon son más grandes y se oxidan de una manera más lenta, ideal para hacer extracciones, en cambio, la Reinbow Melon .... ese terpeno dulce intenso tanto que es hasta abrumador...me muero de ganas ya de probarla... la Lemon Mandarín es exagerado el olor que tiene a mandarina si cierras los ojos y ueles fuere parece que te vayas a comer una buena mandarina y la Paya Sherbet tiene un olor dulce y muy agradable, pero nada que aún pueda relacionad del todo..... un saludo y buenos humos fam.

18/6 from seed Only water twice a week Only once with nutes When in low pot now in bigger pot we will see how much she needs Very abundant roots you will see the video and notice how well she is growing I really doubt the stress from this fast transplant so we will see it's behavior We already added bloom nutes since she didn't have anything before but whoa so fast did not expected that from red poison but makes me feel great to have you I think you will be my favorite haha Happy growing guys Sweet smokes Thanks for that guys

Empiezan a oler bastante bien. El primer riego de esta semana fue de 1200ml. Les he conectado un extractor con salida a la calle porque empezaba a oler toda mi casa. Último riego de la semana 1500ml

Day 37 12/12 everything was fine managed to kill of all the thrips no.sign of them now but another problem occured yesterday after lights off. Today i find a few leafs that are starting to yellow so i decided to up the feed ppm also the buds are still looking kind of small to me... are they going to fatten up yet or am.i being impatient or is there something wrong dont know wheather i should worry or not lol

So I have spider mites. I screwed up so much i think this is going 15 weeks. Lost coast to the rescue! time to finish these buggers off

Welcome to my Purple Og Punch DWC diary: Drop a like if you want me to visit your diaries. Either way, thank you for viewing this. Keep up the growing and good luck to all in the Ganja Farmer contest regardless of where you place remember the real prize is the bud you'll get from her. 30/4/22Started both DWC fems off like this. As it's the easiest way atm as I'll have to set the black 1 7L pots on a higher base as the DWC buckets are 33cm off the ground while the 1.7L are 12cm off the ground. Doing it like this will be fine for the 1st wk as the roots don't even reach the end of the net pot until around week 2. I have it sitting in 1mlx3 solution nutes I used are up above all from Terra Power. I haven't decided yet which bucket will be sterile but as there is no root rot to worry about I'm going to be running her on a full compliment of enzymes and everything bactria I can throw at her for the 1st 2 weeks with root stims, maybe I'll carry it on, (the root stims/enzymes/bactria). Just a little tip. Your grow light does not need to be on till she's up showing face. When you put your seeds in to germinate be sure if you have to have your light on try cover the seed that needs to go 3/4 of a CM down. That's means the top of the head of the seed needs to be 3/4cm down. This will help the seed become strong and grow enough tap root as if she's to close to the surface it'll start off poor. As for what I'm going to do because it's DWC it really would be best left alone and lollipop her and let her grow into a monster. As she leans on the larger side I think she'll be best left to bloom with LST, maybe some supercropping. We shall see. I'm thinking as this is a new strain/breeder this will be 1 of few DWC hydroponics. Looking forward to seeing how purple I can get her, hope she's a real punch, pun intended. Don't think I'll have the cold temps to bring out the terps and a nice fade earlier on. Will start her on a very light diet as soon as she shows leafs. I'm in between on giving her a tried and tested brand of nutes. I think I'll run this off on a mix of try pack with some bud enhancers either from Terra Power or Adv Nutrients. Enzymes are yet to be decided. Decided. Going to run this 1 also as a pure enzyme run. I'll be mixing my own guide of enzymes and base nutrients. I'll be using set nutrients but not following there recommended guide lines. As TP says to hokd off on 3 key nutrients that DWC would highly benefit from and be ran in safty as no roots are in the water. Will be running her on FloraDuo grow/bloom renamed Dual Part. Grow/bloom from Terra Aquita aka GEH. And on a full compliment of of terra powers best. 3/5/22 VD1 Have started her on nutrients. I know she hasn't throw her clothes off yet but she'll handle it. EC was set at .5. PH 5.9. RH71% 21C IN dark. Max 24-25 in day with lights on. I run the light throughout the whole night only goes off in the day when room temp is more stable. When they get into pre-mid flower I'll be setting it so they go into the rest in the night when it coldest and will hopefully be able to get the purple to show in this new strain. If not I have a few things in mind to try. Last resort will be buying a chiller for my 70x70, but maybe not until I improve my skills with the tools I have on hand in going to try max out my skills and push my plants till I need extra gear like Co2 system and chillers will be added to my new pro 12 RDWC oxy pot system when I set it up for the winter, (months away) when temps are colder I'll run a full simpler 12 pot linked system with full enzymes. 4/5/22 Great growth from Yday. Very slow to come out of the ground. Actually both strains autos and fems have been lagging behind both other breeders. 100% success so far on germination. Another POGP seed is bound for 100% coco. 6/5/22 So, it's begun. I've created a negative pressure environment, 1st time, let's see if it makes an impact. On wk 3 onwards I'll be running the intake extraction for 5mins every 30mins and I'll have 2 co2 bags up. If the RH becomes a problem or temp I'll put the extraction/intake back on 100% of the time. The extraction fan/intake is set at a ratio of 2 to 1. (100% extraction 50% intake) making a negative pressure environment, best way to show you have done this, the walls in your tent should bow in lightly. Same Day. Okay, so this my last update. Going to run fans the same right up until flower and then I'll be sealing up my tent and adding 2 co2 bags. And will be adding a dehuimifier and setting at 45% And it checks every 30mins and if it's gone up it'll turn back on and bring down to 45 or set RH, so no co2 will escape. The temp will be bordering 30-33c and then when they go into their rest window they'll be transferred to to a negative pressure environment with low temps and 45-50%RH. I'll only be able to do this for the 3 weeks of pre flower. And maybe some more, it depends how hard the dehuimifier will be working, but i want dense buds and only way to improve that is by introducing Co2 and then a negative pressure cold environment for terps. Then I'll be putting them back into full negative pressure environment and the Co2 will be useless, again all depends how it's gonna affect my bottom line. That and I only have 2 intake fans. I'll be going into detail about my Co2 adventures the week before I'll be prepping them to be able to withstand high temps, so I'll gradually bring up the temps the last wk of veg 28c max and that way when I push it to 30-32c in pre flower she won't stress as much Thanks for reading this week, there'll be no more updates just pics for the rest of the week. Then PPM will be adjusted. 9/5/22 So, AFTER going back and forward these past few days and scratching my head as to why my DWC grows are going soooo slow when compared to the soil grows. Then it dawned on me. There only getting a bit of water every time I pour it on the rockwool and trickles down onto the roots beyond the rockwool, the water was meant to be up past the base of the net pot for the 1st 2 weeks until the roots grow down and can drink at their own needs. I wasn't doing that. So last night it clicked. Silly I know. So I brought the water up in the bowl as far as I could and I'm hoping it's high enough that the roots can start to drink from the bowl. gottagrowsometime

Day 92: what’s happening guys! Week 14 is here. Temps have been okay and humidity has been okay. I’ve got the 400w hps set up and it’s dropped temps slightly and slightly raised humidity which is what I wanted. In my opinion she’s looking ready for the chop! I’m seeing plenty of cloudy trichomes and a few ambers and I’m going for less of a couch lock so I’m thinking around now she is ready. I started plain water 6 days ago and she’s recieved 2L,1L and then 1L again today. All leaves have started yellowing, I imagine this is the plant pulling the nitrogen from the leaves as there’s none at the roots. How much longer does she need to be fed plain water for before she is ready for the chop? Thanks! Stay safe and happy growing✌️🌱🍁 End of the day edit: I decided to harvest the majority of her. The bottoms just a bit under developed so I’ll leave it going a bit longer. After chopping and taking photos out of the hps light the nugs are looking a tinge purple although I can’t see it as strong with my eyes. Hopefully I’ll get a wet weight later so I can add it to the diary later on. Temp is around 24c and humidity is 45-55. How does that sound? I’ve got extractor at the top and a fan at the bottom. We’ll see how long it takes to dry, hoping to go for atleast 5 days. With the virus going around I’m really making use of what I have at home so hopefully the climate will hold up🤞 any tips and advice about drying and curing etc is hugely appreciated🙏 I’ll be back with the harvest update once she’s dried out✌️many thanks happy growing!🍁🌱 She weighed in wet at 110 grams. Any ideas what she’ll weigh dry? I’m guessing an ounce if I’m lucky.

The girls have survived another week ❤️ I did a light defoliation and have been monitoring the RH closely. We have had a very damp week here, and the RH kept climbing and had my fan working hard. They are starting to plump up and fill in 😋. They have also started to slow their drinking habits, instead of watering every three days, it has moved to every 4 now. Just a couple of weeks left, I think I will be harvesting these over Christmas 🎄, and will have some great bud ready for the new year! 🎉🎊🍾

Sweet, Sour, Gassy.. now we talking Der Geruch erinnert mich nun an Vitamin C Bonbons und die Buds legen immer mehr zu. Ich bin zufrieden mit dem Gesamtbild und freue mich über immer mehr frost. Manche Blätter drehen sich vor lauter Trichomen zwischen den Zacken. Überall sieht man Zuckerkristalle bis auf die grossen Fächerbätter hinaus. Es hat sich hier deutlich abgekühlt und für die letzten Wochen finde ich es sogar gut um ein klein wenig Herbst zu imitieren :) Basis Dünger werden nur bei jedem zweiten Giessen verwendet, Booster bei jedem Mal. Ich gebe nun bis zum Schluss Alfa Boost mit hinzu, während ich bei den Mengen von Growzyme und Huminsäure Plus variiere Das Thermometer habe ich nun mal auf Höhe der Blüten gehängt, im Endeffekt waren die Werte bisher alle von der Höhe der Töpfe Edit 5.Sept. : Habe gestern an einer Pflanze Bananen in den Buds entdeckt. Habe Sie gespült, mit Skalpell die Sichtbaren Bananenteile entfernt und wieder etwas niedriger ins Zelt gestellt. Die anderen Beiden bekamen heute nochmal nutrients und werden mit der nächsten Tour auch gespült. Ich brauche die Zwitter Pflanze mindestens zur weiterverarbeitung. :(