21/11/24 - Week 4 of flower. I'm giving the ladies 600w at 80cm distance. I'm also Struggling with the temps because of the winter. During lights on temps are between 26 & 28 degrees celsius, with lights off i try to keep the temp steady at 24 25 degrees celcius.

Week 4 plants have made alot growth with dark rich green leaves.. have not had any nutrient deficiency pop up, these plants are amazing Im impressed with the resilience of it… defoliated 2x once at the start of week 4 an end of week 4 they quickly had new growth… I accidentally snapped a stem while lst barely holding on on one side an within 24hrs it had completely healed with a small scar.. probably gonna veg for one week … excited for this progress!!!

April 26th - Day 69 : Oh my god look at them.. So bushy after that defoliation. They're doing great I think.. The only concern was the laggyness of the leaves but I guess it's due to overwatering so I'll chill with water for a day or two. I started trimming the lower branches that I think aren't getting enough light. I'm trying to push the veg stage as much as I can let's see if they can take an extra few weeks.

Can sometiduddy help with this grow

You can already see them trichomes all over the buds. Looking super nice . Smell is getting crazier.

Hi grow buddies, can you please guide me is this good to start flush or I should continue feeding? Is this in final ripening stage?

Noticed these little ones where hurting a bit and needed some more feed. The one week the runoff was quite high but the ec going in was not. guess that has been fixed, after feeding them they started to green up more and look a bit more healthy. went from a 0.6 to a 1.2 ec in feed ppm scale is 500. the lightly purple tinted plant has the most height out of all three and is on the far right, the darkest purple is the shortest on the far left and the green one is only a bit taller located in the middle. Other then underfeeding they seem to be doing quite well, will keep and eye on them and monitor for thrips and aphids. little fuckers where spotted on a Ganja farmer plant just a few feet down. Also uploaded some of the little critters in the garden pollinating my things and eating pests.

So many leafs are coming back strong. Next Week I think the stretch will be done, so I can do the final defoliation in this grow Space for better overall light penetration.

The first white pistils can clearly be seen now. I guess that's why she's getting more yellow leaves at the base but this also means that she is in the preflowering phase :) Due to this and the fact that the weather is great, she needs more water now. Aside from that she is starting to smell a bit more in the morning and her branches are turning red.

Wow from start to finish was a great strain to grow the buds were covered in the most frost ...from the get go these beans were fast to germinate and grow with no issues when it came to high humidity or light intensity . The team at fast buds does an amazing job with there genetics .The plants were well taken care of and as a result she gave me super dense nuggets that are musky and sticky so dam sticky ..I would recommend this strain to any one who is interested in getting there first auto grow going or even a pro grower the company won't disappoint ...

This week the flowers really started to bulk up. I was worried about having very loose buds as the development starts off very slow but eventually they really bulk up nicely!! The topped plant is about 2 weeks behind in flower but has way more main collas! Check the last video for both plants

hey guys so here are my c.c girls coming along nicely was away for a few weels so wasn't able to do updates had a friend watching over them while was away and starting 5o fill out nicely . i am literaly just back so will intro nutes this week for flower stage , defo got the cookie smell coming from her

MB is amazing strain from exotic genetix ,great teast and aroma and very powerful (absolutely greasy) Heavy yield and bery strong genetics

My good friend convinced me that trimming and training are paramount, so I've started with slowly defoliating the Creme de la Chems to try and get to lollipop status. They're just starting to flower, so I figured I could get away with a more aggressive approach. Because I failed to train these girls early, I'm stuck dealing with a little rain forest. What I've tried to do is trace each flower topped stalk up from the base, and trim away from the bottom up. 1/3 of the way up per day. I've now got a thick canopy, and I've been trying to just use leaf tucking and manual manipulation every few hours in order to keep the different height flowering sites in direct light. These ladies have really been thriving, and it's been such a joy to watch them grow! I like having two plants in one net pot letting them grow wild, but I think in my next grow I'll keep it to one per pot and train better from the start. As for the Super Orange Haze ... not as good. I attempted to pull the main branch over to train her to some empty space, but I was too aggressive and ended up popping her head off :(. First grow, first disaster. I took the head and stripped her/coated in clonex and pushed her into some potting soil just to see what would happen. There hasn't been enough foliage to really make me want to do any trimming, I've just tried to tie the stalks off to train them apart. I'm really sad about my mistake decapitation, but she seems to be doing well still. She's probably week 2 of flower based on others' journals. I changed the water midway through the week (which is when the videos were taken). I drained most of the water out, but roots prevented me from getting the last few gallons. When I refilled the res with RO, I measured the PPM at around 200. I have to assume that remaining nutrient was completely unbalanced leftovers, so feeding will have to just have to be experimental. My approach has been to give around 1:1 Gro vs Bloom and Micro every 2-3 days when I refill with RO. I want to build my PPM up to 1000, but slowly so that I can detect if I hit a ceiling first. It's hard to measure how much food is in the water based on PPM. CalMag is what drives it mostly, so I've been using CalMag as a sort of measuring stick. I keep the CalMag pegged to the Bloom food, but I know it's only good for initial dosing. I can't assume the plants are eating CalMag in the same proportion as anything else :(. If anyone has a line on cheap lab testing ... hit me up. I'd love to be able to test a few hundred samples at a time for NPK and trace so that I can tell (even if post facto) what was going on.

If you are lonely when you are alone, then you are in bad company. Bee pollen is considered a “vitamin bomb” due to the presence of almost all vitamins with an average of 0.02–0.7% of its total content, with a higher amount of water-soluble than fat-soluble vitamins. Bee pollen contains vitamins A, D, E, B1, B2, B6, and C. It also provides minerals such as calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, zinc, copper, manganese, iron, and selenium, I mixed a bunch of that with some honey and RAW cane molasses to make a nice big bucket of tea. A family friend who is a beekeeper was kind enough to share some honey. The nutritional content of raw honey is impressive and includes high levels of protein, amino acids, B vitamins, calcium, manganese, potassium, magnesium, zinc, and iron, as well as various polyphenolic antioxidants. I am loading up nature's finest sugars, and sweet things, Honey & Mollases. UV-B-induced DNA damage (CPDs and 6–4 PPs) can be repaired efficiently by photolyases. Pyrimidine dimers can be repaired by nucleotide excision repair (NER), or bypassed by replicative polymerases (Britt 2004). The expression of the CPD photolyase (PHR) gene is induced by UV-B light dependent on UVR8 signaling pathway, and is also induced by blue and UV-A light (Li et al. 2015) https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s44154-022-00076-9?fromPaywallRec=true Old but gold. The camera picks up far more light than there is during the night cycle, camera is showing bright pink violet collages but my eyes barely see a thing, about 0.25ppfd in that tent overnight. Have been tweaking the spectrum of moonlight/intensity and watching the responses overnight. Tweak, tweak, tweak all week. PAR is 400-700nm, Overnight UVA in the tent is all 365nm and 385nm, so the meter only picks up a fraction of the light curve that makes it photosynthetically active past 400nm. Of the light in the tent, 0.25ppfd is from UVA Looks like It makes them 🕺 🕺 💃 all night. Better flower soon or ill be screwed for space, they are stretching, but is it "the stretch"? She has fire in her belly. Growing crops with insufficient light (i.e., below “optimal,” as defined here) limits the yield potential, which in turn wastes the other production inputs including labour, water, nutrients and electricity. As lighting fixture is one of the most expensive investment of the production, what is the relationship between light intensity and yield? Potter and Duncombe (2012) grew cannabis plants with varying canopy-level PPFDs during the flowering stage and found that increasing PPFD from 400 to 900 μmol·m−2·s−1 increased yield an average of 1.3 times higher, across seven cultivars, with no light intensity treatment effects on floral cannabinoid concentrations. Vanhove et al. (2011) found that cannabis yields were 1.3 to 3.1 times higher (depending on cultivar) when plants were grown under approximately 1000 μmol·m−2·s−1 compared to approximately 450 μmol·m−2·s−1 during the flowering stage.It was predicted that cannabis yield would exhibit a saturating response to increasing Light intensity, thereby signifying an optimum light intensity range for indoor cannabis production. However, a new research from Morrison (2021), after 81 days‘ experiment, found that When plants grew under LI ranging from 1200 to 1800 μmol·m–2·s–1 provided by light emitting diodes (LEDs), inflorescence yield increased linearly as LI increased up to 1800 μmol·m–2·s–1. "Cannabis will not stop flowering if the lights are turned on for a few minutes once or twice during the 2-month-long flowering cycle. If a light is turned on for 5 to 30 minutes—long enough to disrupt the dark period—on 3 to 5 con­secutive nights, plants will start to revert to vegetative growth." "Less than one half of one foot-candle of light (0.1ppfd) from sunlight will prevent cannabis from flow­ering. That is a little more light than is reflected by a full moon on a clear night. Well-bred indica-dominant plants will revert within three days. Sativa-dominant plants take four to five days to revert to vegetative growth. Once they start to revegetate, it can take from four to six ad­ditional weeks to induce flowering again!" Guess ill find out my answer soon.

Week 1 of flower everything looks great and green fed full strength Emerald Harvest full strength. A little bit of there terms are coming out now and they smell good already

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