14 day dry | Curing in Grove bags, filled 7 QP bags & got 56g of keif out the trim bin from only 2 plants! More pictures coming! STAY FROSTY GROWMIES

Week 6 Light cycle=18/6 Light Power=120w 50% Extractor controller settings High temp= 25c Low temp= c Temp step=0c High Rh= 56% Low Rh= % Rh step=0% Speed max=8 Speed min=2 Smart controller settings (during lights on). Lights on=06.00am Radiator on= below 21c Radiator off= above 22c Smart controller settings (during lights off). Lights off=00.00am Radiator on= below 18c Radiator off= above 19c VPD aim=0.6-1.4 DLI aim=35-40 EC aim=1.9 PH aim=6.2 Fri 26/1/24 #3 (Day 36) 📋 defoliate lower leaves that hardly get any light. Sat 27/1/24 #3 (Day 37) 📋 H=35cm D=45cm DLI=31.9 Raised light about 10cm Increased light power to 140w H=35cm D=56cm DLI=30.5 Sun 28/1/24 I have decided today is going to be the last day of veg before I flip to flower. Lights will have come on today at 6.00am and go off at 10.00pm, they will get 14hrs light today and tomorrow will be day 1 of 12/12. 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 Method= automatic Feed=Veg nutes. Neutralise=0.1ml/L Silicon=1.0ml/L Calmag=1.0ml/L Terra grow=4.0ml/L Roots=0.2ml/L Easy Ph down=0.125ml/L Ec= 2.05 PH=6.1/6.3 Time start=12.00pm Finish time=13.45pm (11×5 minute runs with 5 minute gaps) Total flow rate=181ml/min Flow rate per plant=45ml/min. Total volume made=12L Total volume left=2L Total volume used=10L Volume per plant=2.5L (Est) Runoff. Total runoff=1L Ec=2.7 PH=6.1/6.3 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 #3 (Day 38) 📋 With no information for flower time I'm going to have to guess she will be finished in 45-60 days. I removed quite a few lower nodes that probably won't break through the canopy, they where ideal candidates for clones. Light cycle=12/12 Light Power=140w 58% Extractor controller settings High temp= 25c Low temp= c Temp step=0c High Rh= 56% Low Rh= % Rh step=0% Speed max=8 Speed min=2 Smart controller settings (during lights on). Lights on=10.01-21.59 Radiator on= below 21.5c Radiator off= above 22.5c Smart controller settings (during lights off). Lights off=22.00-10.00 Radiator on= below 18c Radiator off= above 19c Mon 29/1/24 Lights on at 10.00am off at 22.00pm #3 (Day 39)(Day 1 flower) 📋 H=37cm D=54cm DLI=22.0 At 9.00pm increased light to 150w H=37cm D=54cm DLI=23.0 Tue 30/1/24 #3 (Day 40)(Day 2 flower) 📋 Wed 31/1/24 #3 (Day 41)(Day 3 flower) 📋 H=41cm D=50cm DLI=24.0 🚿 foliar sprayed (Sumo Boost 2ml/L). Thur 1/2/24 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 Method= automatic Feed=water Neutralise=0.1ml/L Roots=0.2ml/L Easy Ph down=0.ml/L Ec=0.2 PH=6.6/6.6 Time start=12.00pm Finish time=13.45pm (11×5 minute runs with 5 minute gaps) Total flow rate=181ml/min Flow rate per plant=45ml/min. Total volume made=14L Total volume left=4L Total volume used=10L Volume per plant=2.5L (Est) Runoff. Total runoff=1L Ec=2.0 PH=6.1/6.2 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 #3 (Day 42)(Day 4 flower)***** 📋 H=41cm D=50cm DLI=24.0 Lifted light and increasd power to 196w. H=41cm D=58cm DLI=26.5 Released the Lst to see if that will help. It's not been that bad a week for this one, she hasn't done overly well in the battle for space and hasn't quite managed to grow as tall as the other 3 plants by about 10cm. She has been in 12/12 for the majority of the week. Back soon. Take it easy.

Moving along to week 3 flower. Plants are doing great! Still training to expose more bud sites. Watering every 4-5 days.

Soo this week has been “fine” . Humidity is under control finally , the humidifiers seemingly have gotten the environment in check . I noticed “it works more efficiently” if I leave a small amount of water in the reservoir as opposed to how long it takes humidity to drop after watering with the reservoir bone dry after emptying . I see that the top dress food still isn’t reaching the girls yet there’s more progressive lower leaf yellowing . I thought it’s take no more than a week for the waterings to render the amendments effective. Seeing this I’ll surely give the girls their pre flowering feed much sooner . I’m planning for 4 weeks so that by week 6(WISHFUL THINKING) the food will be accessible to the girls . Vertical growth this week has been decent , I was worrying quietly on the inside that I’d end up with nuggets on the lateral branches I’ve worked so hard to grow & constantly train. I want to see 12 in long dense solid resinous continuous colas on these girls . Anyways I think that’s it, another week on the GreeneScene in the books 📚.

Quick update on Black Opium #2! This week: • Still in stretching/flower production phase • Fed with Thicker & Bigger Flowers at 1/3 dose • Continuing steady development

Slight nutrient burn on the super silver haze and the banana. I have backed them up in feed from 10ml per gallon back to 8, it seems to have done the trick the last couple days. Both banana and super silver haze are trucking along quite well I think otherwise. I have officially decided to start my flushing on the black domina x Scott's og, trichomes are about half milky half clear, not sure if I should be doing a full flush or continue feeding through week 7 and start flush on week 8 I'm not overly sure lol see how it goes anyway. Cheers

Week 4 the right plant shows a deficiency... no idea what that is. the light from the lamp was too strong at first but it shouldn't be... I don't know - I'll keep an eye on it... I think the left plant looks good... growing splendidly - sativa genes are showing... the right plant is growing more bushy 👉Defoliation and exposing the shoots👈 I removed all the leaves that were or would soon be covered with scissors ✂️ - I started in the middle to give the plant more air flow

New strain never Ive never grown before

Day 28-35 (Day 29) I had some leftover pH 5.5 water from my other grow, it’s a little acidic but my medium is pretty base so it should balance itself out soon. (Day 30) Plants didn’t respond well overnight. They’re drooping and not looking very happy anymore. I’m guessing they will still recover in the next few days though. I’ve got to stay more consistent with the water. I’m going to make a water formula and consistently use it every time. I don’t like these pH fluctuations. (Day 33) I’m going to sprout 8 more plants today to help fill out the tent before I flip. I will be using pretty lame genetics but I will probably still find something I like. Got x2 SM Jack Herer, x2 SM Blueberry, x2 SM The White OG, x2 SM Badazz OG cheese. Last time I ran badazz og cheese it grew fine and yielded well but it got some pretty bad powdery mildew and the quality was lacking. I will make sure to give as many preventative sprays as possible before flip. This whole tent is highly susceptible to powdery mildew so I might be in for some issues later down the road. I will make sure to vacuum frequently and spray down the tent and my equipment as much as possible. The slurricane has recovered from its topping and is producing two new main stems. Its going through water quite fast so I’m going to transplant into a 1.7g pot. (Day 35) Dropped the ball hard today and accidentally knocked over the tray with all my new seedlings. Good news is they just got watered and were firm enough to keep all 8 seeds rooted and in place. Bad news is I mixed up almost every single container..... The only plant I am certain of the genetics is one of the cheeses. The other 7 are all mixed up! I’m sure I can tell all 4 apart by late mid-late flower, but this just sucks. I guess I will number them like prisoners 😭😭 I overwatered the slurricane a bit and it is looking like it has a lockout of some sort or it could be from the foliar spray. I’m going to back off and let it do it’s thing for the next week. I hope all the stress I’m putting it through will slow it down to the level of the locos and garlics. Garlics are looking happy so I’m going to transplant them into 1.7s today. Might as well get this slurricane, guava and locos transplanted too. Guava appears to be growing quite healthy but has had interveinal chlorosis since it has sprouted. If it doesn’t green up in the next week I will pull it. Man, I can’t help but feel this grow has been cursed since the beginning. Although a rough past don’t always make for rough future. I found a way to consistently pH my water to 6.2 every time. I’m starting with 60ml of chlorine free bottle, adding in 2000ml of RO water and just that alone gets me to 6.2. I can also add in 3ml of remo nutrients calmag, 2ml of EM1 microbes, 2ml of 0-0-15 kelp extract and the pH will stay stable at 6.2.

Green light is radiation with wavelengths between 520 and 560 nm and it affects photosynthesis, plant height, and flowering. Plants reflect green light and this is why they appear green to our eyes. As a result, some growers think that plants don’t use green wavelengths, but they actually do! In fact, only around 5 – 10% of green light is reflected from leaves and the rest (90 – 95 %) is absorbed or transmitted to lower leaves [1]. Green wavelengths get used in photosynthesis. Chlorophyll pigments absorb small amounts of green wavelengths. Light that doesn’t get absorbed is transmitted to leaves that are shaded out from direct light. This means that leaves at the bottom of the canopy get more green light than leaves at the top. A high proportion of green wavelengths compared to other colors tells lower leaves that they are being shaded out, so they are able to react accordingly. Lower leaves may react by opening or closing their stomata or growing longer stems that help the leaves reach brighter light [1, 2, 3]. When it comes to growing cannabis, many cultivators are interested in the quality of light used for the flowering stage. In many plants, flowering is regulated by two main photoreceptors: cryptochrome and phytochrome. Both photoreceptors primarily respond to blue light but can also respond to green, although to a lesser extent. Green can accelerate the start of flowering in several species (although cannabis has yet to be tested) [1, 4, 5]. However, once flowering has begun, it’s important to provide plants with a “full spectrum” light that has high amounts of blue and red light, and moderate amounts of green, in order for photosynthesis to be optimized. Green light mediates seed germination in some species. Seeds use green wavelengths to decide whether the environment is good for germination. Shade environments are enriched in green relative to red and blue light, so a plant can tell if it is shady or sunny. A seed that senses a shaded environment may stay dormant to avoid poor growing conditions [1]. Some examples of plant species where researchers have documented this response are: ryegrass (a grass that grows in tufts) and Chondrilla (a plant related to dandelion) [1, 6]. Although green wavelengths generally tell plants NOT to germinate, there are some exceptions! Surprisingly, green wavelengths can stimulate seed germination in some species like Aeschynomene, Tephrosia, Solidago, Cyrtopodium, and Atriplex [1, 6, 7]. Of course, light is not the only factor affecting seed germination – it’s a combination of many factors, such as soil moisture, soil type, temperature, photoperiod, and light quality. When combined with red and blue light, green can really enhance plant growth [1, 8]. However, too much green light (more than 50% of the total light) can actually reduce plant growth [8]. Based on the most current research, the ideal ratio of green, red, and blue light is thought to be around 1:2:1 for green:blue:red [9]. When choosing a horticultural light, choose one that has high amounts of blue and red light and moderate amounts of green and other colors of light. Not many studies can be found about the effect of green light on cannabis growth or metabolism. However, if one reads carefully, there are clues and data available even from the very early papers. Mahlberg and Hemphill (1983) used colored filters in their study to alter the sunlight spectrum and study green light among others. They concluded that the green filter, which makes the environment green by cutting other wavelengths out, reduced the THC concentration significantly compared to the daylight control treatment. It has been demonstrated that green color can reduce secondary metabolite activity with other species as well. For example, the addition of green to a light spectrum decreases anthocyanin concentration in lettuce (Zhang and Folta 2012). If green light only reverses the biosynthesis of some secondary metabolites, then why put green light into a growth spectrum at all? Well, there are a couple of good reasons. One is that green penetrates leaf layers effectively. Conversely red and blue light is almost completely absorbed by the first leaf layer. Green travels through the first, second, and even third layers effectively (Figure 2). Lower leaf layers can utilize green light in photosynthesis and therefore produce yields as well. Even though a green light-specific photoreceptor has not yet been found, it is known that green light has effects independent from the cryptochrome but then again, also cryptochrome-dependent ones, just like blue light. It is known that green light in low light intensity conditions can enhance far red stimulating secondary metabolite production in microgreens and then again, counteracts the production of these compounds in high-intensity light conditions (Kim et al. 2004). In many cases, green light promoted physiological changes in plants that are opposite to the actions of blue light. In the study by Kim et al. blue light-induced anthocyanin accumulation was inhibited by green light. In another study it has been found that blue light promotes stomatal opening whereas green light promotes stomatal closure (Frechilla et al. 2000). Blue light inhibits the early stem elongation in the seedling stage whereas green light promotes it (Folta 2004). Also, blue light results in flowering induction, and green light inhibits it (Banerjee et al., 2007). As you can see, green light works very closely with blue light, and therefore not only the amount of these two wavelengths separately is important but also the ratio (Blue: Green) between these two in the designed spectrum. Furthermore, green light has been found to affect the elongation of petioles and upward leaf reorientation with the model plant Arabidopsis thaliana both of which are a sign of shade avoidance symptoms (Zhang et al. 2011) and also gene expression in the same plant (Dhingra et al. 2006). As mentioned before, green light produces shade avoidance symptoms which are quite intuitive if you consider the natural conditions where the plants grow. Not all the green light is reflected from the highest canopy leaves in nature but a lot of it (50-90%) has been estimated to penetrate the upper leaves at the plant level ((Terashima et al., 2009; Nishio, 2000). For the plant growing in the understory of the forest green light is a signal for the plant of being in the shade of a bigger plant. Then again, the plants growing under unobstructed sunlight can take advantage of the green photons that can more easily penetrate the upper leaves than the red and blue photons. From the photosynthetic pigments in higher plants, chlorophyll is crucial for plant growth. Dissolved chlorophyll and absorb maximally in the red (λ600–700 nm) and blue (λ400–500 nm) regions of the spectrum and not as easily in the green (λ500–600 nm) regions. Up to 80% of all green light is thought to be transmitted through the chloroplast (Terashima et al., 2009) and this allows more green photons to pass deeper into the leaf mesophyll layer than red and blue photons. When the green light is scattered in the vertical leaf profile its journey is lengthened and therefore photons have a higher chance of hitting and being absorbed by chloroplasts on their passage through the leaf to the lower leaves of the plant. Photons of PPFD (photosynthetic photon flux density) are captured by chlorophyll causing an excitation of an electron to enter a higher energy state in which the energy is immediately passed on to the neighboring chlorophyll molecule by resonance transfer or released to the electron transport chain (PSII and PSI). Despite the low extinction coefficient of chlorophyll in the green 500–600 nm region it needs to be noted that the absorbance can be significant if the pigment (chlorophyll) concentration in the leaf is high enough. The research available clearly shows that plants use green wavelengths to promote higher biomass and yield (photosynthetic activity), and that it is a crucial signal for long-term developmental and short-term dynamic acclimation (Blue:Green ratio) to the environment. It should not be dismissed but studied more because it brings more opportunities to control plant gene expression and physiology in plant production. REFERENCES Banerjee R., Schleicher E., Meier S. Viana R. M., Pokorny R., Ahmad M., Bittl R., Batschauer. 2007. The signaling state of Arabidopsis cryptochrome 2 contains flavin semiquinone. The Journal of Biological Chemistry 282, 14916–14922. Dhingra, A., Bies, D. H., Lehner, K. R., and Folta, K. M. 2006. Green light adjusts the plastic transcriptome during early photomorphogenic development. Plant Physiol. 142, 1256-1266. Folta, K. M. 2004. Green light stimulates early stem elongation, antagonizing light-mediated growth inhibition. Plant Physiol. 135, 1407-1416. Frechilla, S., Talbott, L. D., Bogomolmi, R. A., and Zeiger, E. 2000. Reversal of blue light -stimulated stomatal opening by green light. Plant Cell Physiol. 41, 171-176. Kim, H.H., Goins, G. D., Wheeler, R. M., and Sager, J. C. 2004.Green-light supplementation for enhanced lettuce growth under red- and blue-light emitting diodes. HortScience 39, 1617-1622. Nishio, J.N. 2000. Why are higher plants green? Evolution of the higher plant photosynthetic pigment complement. Plant Cell and Environment 23, 539–548. Terashima I., Fujita T., Inoue T., Chow W.S., Oguchi R. 2009. Green light drives leaf photosynthesis more efficiently than red light in strong white light: revisiting the enigmatic question of why leaves are green. Plant & Cell Physiology 50, 684–697. Zhang, T., Maruhnich, S. A., and Folta, K. M. 2011. Green light induces shade avoidance symptoms. Plant Physiol. 157, 1528-156. Wang, Y. & Folta, K. M. Contributions of green light to plant growth and development. Am. J. Bot. 100, 70–78 (2013). Zhang, T. & Folta, K. M. Green light signaling and adaptive response. Plant Signal. Behav. 7, 75–78 (2012). Johkan, M. et al. Blue light-emitting diode light irradiation of seedlings improves seedling quality and growth after transplanting in red leaf lettuce. HortScience 45, 1809–1814 (2010). Kasajima, S., et al. Effect of Light Quality on Developmental Rate of Wheat under Continuous Light at a Constant Temperature. Plant Prod. Sci. 10, 286–291 (2007). Banerjee, R. et al. The signaling state of Arabidopsis cryptochrome 2 contains flavin semiquinone. J. Biol. Chem. 282, 14916–14922 (2007). Goggin, D. E. & Steadman, K. J. Blue and green are frequently seen: responses of seeds to short- and mid-wavelength light. Seed Sci. Res. 22, 27–35 (2012). Mandák, B. & Pyšek, P. The effects of light quality, nitrate concentration and presence of bracteoles on germination of different fruit types in the heterocarpous Atriplex sagittata. J. Ecol. 89, 149–158 (2001). Darko, E. et al. Photosynthesis under artificial light: the shift in primary and secondary metabolism. Philos. Trans. R. Soc. B Biol. Sci. 369 (2014). Lu, N. et al. Effects of Supplemental Lighting with Light-Emitting Diodes (LEDs) on Tomato Yield and Quality of Single-Truss Tomato Plants Grown at High Planting Density. Environ. Control Biol. 50, 63–74 (2012).

Banana purple punch - 420 fast buds Week 6 had some issues with heat stress but seems to be pulling threw ok Smells banging DRSHOTZUK

Now In Week 3 of Bloom and are getting the pom pom's😍. First time giving them bloom food although my Runoff EC was too low in most pots; I'm thinking this is cause I've previously leached the medium? I hope I soon get this EC Runoff closer to 1800 to 2000. I have 2 plants that I stunted that are now 18" tall they are the shortest, and the most tortured😣 with high salts; most plants are 33" high now. The colour is much more natural and not so leathery looking to me. I had to adjust the Bloom food & add more in order to get me at 1800. I'm going to feed more frequently and hope this helps to bring up the EC runoff on the pots which are low while not overdosing the others. OCT 2nd & 3rd- Inputs: 6.3PH - 20.3 & 19.8 Temp - 1.8EC Runoffs: Pot 1 PH 5.5 Temp 20.6 EC 2.1 Pot 2 PH 5.9 Temp 20.6 EC 1.7 Pot 3 PH 6.0 Temp 20.4 EC 1.7 Pot 4 PH 5.5 Temp 20.8 EC 1.6 Pot 5 PH 5.4 Temp 20.2 EC 1.7 Pot 6 PH5.9 Temp 20.8 EC 1.8 Pot 7 PH 5.8 Temp 20.3 EC 1,9 Pot 8 PH 5.3 Temp 20.9 EC 1.5 Pot 9 PH 5.8 Temp 21.7 EC 1.4 Pot 10 PH 5.3 Temp 20.7 EC 1.9 Pot 11 PH 5.7 Temp 21.2 EC 1.7 Pot 12 PH 5.8 Temp 21.5 EC 1.4 Pot 13 PH 5.8 Temp 22.4 EC 1.5 Pot 14 PH 5.5 Temp 21.8 EC 1.6 Pot 15 PH 5.6 Temp 22.6 EC 1.7 Pot 16 PH 5.9 Temp 21.8 EC 1.5 Because of my trays I can water 5 Plants at a time so this monitoring takes awhile but I'm getting better at it😄 OCT 8 Inputs PH 6.3 Temp 20.8 EC 1.8 -- Run off was 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0 *EC of well water is 0.9 EC or 450 PPM.

Let’s Go day 29!! This week went real nice ! Girls are staying very healthy and building up nicely and even started showing signs of female sex which is super great ! We started doing a little bit of leaf tuck training method on em , nothing to big as like I said I want these girls just to do there thang an grow more on naturally side! My Air temp and Humidity have been on point all week, staying from 70-75 degrees throughout the day and humidity staying around 58-61% humidity , my girls are loving that summer an 75 feeling !! Can’t wait to see what we do this week ! Hopefully you all enjoy, and are ready for another great productive week ! Peace love an positive vibes to y’all Cheers 😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨🤙🏻Happy Grows✌️🏻Week 4 let’s get it !

Tok off large fan leaves on day 24. Seeing preflower starting. Decided to try out a natural shape instead of doing LST. I hope this doesn't backfire... The blackberry gum on the right is getting big. I like how autopotamus has natural shape... But he also has much more light haha

Frostbanger Plants 1-6 Week 8 May 18– 24 FLOWER 4 Nutrients : GH Micro 25 ml GH Gro 10 ml GH Bloom 30ml CalMag 30 ml Recharge 10ml Green sensation 16.5ml Power buds 7.5 ml 5/17 PH 6.3, PPM 1130, temp 71 1ltr each 5/18 PH 6.67, PPM 935, temp 68.5 1 ltr each 5/20 PH 6.67, PPM 1330, temp 68.5 2 ltr each 5/21 PH 6.66, PPM 984, temp 69 1 ltr each videos & pics 5/17 Defoliation of yellowing leaves, feed, pics As I mentioned last week, I must monitor and control the tent environment manually. For the past month, the humidifier has been an issue putting out way too much humidity; often leaving water in the bottom of the tent. In addition, the temperatures are also out of control. I added an AC last week to keep the temperature below 80. I finally determined the exhaust vent is also broken and has been for some time. AC Infinity does not extend the warranty to the replacement parts. I guess that makes sense since they would be in a state of perpetual free replacements. I bought a new one from Amazon that came with a new controller which is different from the controller 69 currently using. I decided that while it is very inconvenient and inefficient to monitor the tent through the day, I would rather finish this Frostbanger run without introducing a new unknown variable. I will continue using 3 circulating fans, the 4” exhaust vent from my 3x3. I have the AC pushing air in and the exhaust pulling air out. This creates a neutral pressure tent environment-neither positive nor negative. It looks like growth has stopped and plant height has been reached. Now is the time for buds to fatten and frost up. All 6 of them are short remaining less than 3 ft. They range from 15 to 31 inches. #4, 5 &6 are showing some fade, particularly #4. Upon opening the tent, a melon smell comes off the buds if I get close, and more stickiness was observed during the process of defoliation. They are living up to the new strain’s name. #5 is the frostiest followed by #2. Wow week 3 of flower and that much frost already. Before FastBuds announced the strain name and characteristics, I was disappointed that FBA2502 could be an indica sleepy strain but the universe provides what you need at the time. The new strain profile indicates a whopping 29%THC with mainly sativa uplifting, euphoric, social effects with sweet fruity flavors which I love and enjoy. In addition, I recently bought a dap press and this strain is frosty and resinous. She will be great to press for live rosin. FBA2502 is FROSTBANGER. Meet Frostbanger Auto, an autoflowering and Indica-leaning hybrid packing a staggeringly high THC content averaging 29%, making this one of the most potent strains on the market. It was created by Fast Buds through crossbreeding Gorilla Glue and Chemdawg, two equally iconic strains. Growers must know that these difficult-to-grow plants will pose specific challenges in terms of environmental control and nutrition, making them best suited for cultivators with some experience under their belt. The flowering cycle is short, averaging only 50 days, and yields are usually around 300g/m². The Frostbanger Auto flavor and aroma are both mouthwatering with a delightful combination of sweet, fruity, and flowery notes. The high is mainly Sativa-driven with uplifting and happiness-inducing effects that lead to euphoria and a general sense of well-being. You might feel sociable and talkative, but too spacey to say something. Following this surge of energy comes a deepening sense of relaxation, leaving you sedated and completely at ease with the world. Due to its potency and these long-lasting effects, medical patients hail Frostbanger Auto for treating chronic pain, stress, and even depression. Measurements: #1 15” #2 20” #3 17” #4 30” #5 31” #6 24” Your likes and comments are appreciated. Thanks for stopping by. Growers love 💚🌿 💫Natrona💫

14 dias desde el cambio a 12/12, tuve que sacarlas para revisarlas, ya que se traspaso una plaga de arañitas, y tuve que aplicar insecticida foliar contra la arañita de anasac, antes que entre de lleno a floracion.

Day 57 this little lady last weekend showed up with some burning on the leaves but I’m. Not really sure it was an excess of nutrient, signals of a deficiency of K and P are also visible. So I just gave oh controlled water with regulator and enzym+ and some calmag, now everything looks fine and i ‘ m sure I t will be great this week. Tomorrow, feeding day! Day 59 lady si farting up every day, I’ve been feeding her the last two days. The yellow on the leaves is just because of a water deficiency from the last week, I wanted my lady to absorb everything I gave. On day 57 I gave 1 lt but it was too dry, so on day 58 I gave her another lt and she took it all with PH 6,2 and PPM 1000z I think I’ve got 20/25 day max left so this will be the last week of fertilising from Day 70 I’ll start mi flush. Day 62 today feeding day I finally get my p-boost and k-boost from aptus. She drunk 1 lt with ph 6,1 and ppm 1090 Let’s see🌱🌱🌱🔥🔥