Hi there. So beautiful. We had really nice week compate to September in the UK sunny and good weather but all has changed this week seems to be crap. Rainy and now it is 11 celsus at 7:00 am in the morning. She would be so thick I can see but because of the weather I ain't gonna have that much buds. Still nice 👌 🤣 OMG the smell is incredibly nice like spicy citrus thing with sweet odour.... amazing! Very strong anyways strong smell LOL

Cosa posso dire, sono impressionato dal risultato ottenuto, Nell insieme è uscita una grande erba, mi aspettavo molto meno sinceramente e RQS mi ha stupito! Grandi ragazzi 💪😸😻💜💖

Nothing special this week. I added another light, now there's a light for every plant. From the photos you can see that they're not growing equaly so I'm treating them seperatly from now on. Otherwise 2 are floweing and the third will begin flowering probably this week as it's already showing signs.

Día 22 (03/02) Se está desarrollando estupendamente! El sustrato sigue húmedo, así que el suelo vivo siga haciendo su trabajo! Día 23 (04/02) Riego con 500 ml H2O RO Se muestra sedienta! Día 24 (05/02) Un desarrollo espectacular en estos 24 días de vida! 😍 Día 25 (06/02) Riego con 500 ml H2O RO Se ve radiante! Día 26 (07/02) Riego con 150 ml Día 27 (08/02) Riego con 350 ml Día 28 (09/02) Flip to 12/12! 💥💨😁 FastBuds 15% DISCOUNT code "NONICK" 2fast4buds.com @fast_buds_official_ @fastbuds.official 💦 BioTabs 15% DISCOUNT code "GDBT420" biotabs.nl/en/shop/ @biotabs_official 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE @promixmitch @promixgrowers_unfiltered 💡2 x Mars Hydro FC1500 EVO Led Grow Light (2024 NEW FC 1500-EVO Samsung LM301H 150W LED) - https://marshydro.eu/products/fc1500-evo-led-grow-lights/ - https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0CSSGN5D8?ref=myi_title_dp

Hey folks. Into week 6. Not much happening. Just letting the girls settle back in after the windstorm have em a good whipping. Just standard watering when needed and some lst here and there.

Amazing experience with the Mix Pack, I will try it again next summer for sure. Love the variety.

Week 3 of flower and the garden is looking great! I'm living for the aroma that fills my entire apartment each time I unzip the tent. The pre-flower stretch is pretty much over at this point. Maybe a few more days left. Mimosa EVO stretched the most after the 12/12 switch, followed closely by the Glookies. American Pie #1 remained relatively short compared to American Pie #2, and the other 2 cultivars. With that said, the canopy isn't as even across the top as I would like. I can't really complain too much though because there are so many colas. Did a light defoliation in addition to lollipopping. My LST job is looking pretty good. My next grow I should have my technique more zeroed in, with an even canopy across the board. Onto week #4! I'll see you all there. 🙏

She's looking stunning on her 2nd week, very healthy, no issues at all, developing perfectly, let's see how she keeps developing, this is gonna be very funny! I'm gonma enjoy a lot training this ak 420 phenos from seedstockers!

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

The girls survived. Always the biggest stress in the beginning. Getting sprayed with water twice a day. Gonna do the first watering soon. Hoping for growth!

(Days 28-35) (Day 29) Everything seems to have recovered fine from topping so I transplanted into their 1.7 gallon pots. They were pretty rootbound so this should make them nice and happy. Going to start LST after recovery. Got a ton of holes poked around the rim of the bucket which should make tying down easier. I’ve been asking around on some forums and reading some articles and I’ve decided to switch out my MH bulb for the included HPS bulb. Apparently HPS bulbs will stretch the nodes out quite a bit more and provide higher PAR value for the same amount of electricity. My plants are looking pretty small for day 29. Although, that could just be from stuffing 15 plants under one 250-400w light. I’ve been powering the lights up to 400w at night and back down to 250 during the day. 400 just gets it too hot during the day (86-88) without ventilation. That temperature should be fine in veg once my co2 has really built up some mycelium. (Day 32) Just got 14/15 topped. The BCTG runt is just going to be lst’d and not topped or fimmed. I decided to just fim the plants I started later so they’d have a bit more time to recover and catch up to the others. I also LST’d all 9 quite well. Almost had a stem break but she’s doing just fine now. The deformed bbb was accidentally fimmed and as a result it’s got a very trippy looking main stem that has branched off into 6 mains. I definitely have fungus gnats. Fuckers must have got in with that coco I bought from hydro store. This has never happened to me with just promix but the benefits of coco are too much to pass up. I might order an OG BioWar/capsbennies/grubgrenade to help naturally get rid of them. I’m getting some confirmed yellowing on bottoms of the zkittlez and WW’s. They must be heavy feeders because no other plant in the tent is getting yellow like that. I’m going to feed a compost tea, top dress everything at full strength and mulch in some worm castings to help break it down faster. Will also do a foliar spray with some insect frass, microbes and m1pps. (Day 33) Got some more of that marine phytoplankton stuff to help stabilize my RO water. It’s got a good amount of soluble magnesium and trade minerals in it so that should help stop the yellowing on the zkittlez and WW. (Day 34) Things are looking great so far and they’re all recovered from topping/transplant/lst and thriving. Some slight yellowing and a few of the plants are cupping from heat and high humidity. I just put in a dehumidifier to help bring the rh down. The m39/zkittlez bagseed plant is just outpacing everything in the tent by 4-6 days. No wonder organized crime used to grow it. I hear it can completely flower in 45 days with a solid yield and very little trimming or leaf matter. It’s very weak on the high and smell though. Nonetheless it should be nostalgic to try those old terps. There is still a small chance that it’s a super vigorous zkittlez plant too. Plants should be showing sex this coming week. Hoping for 8+ fems but I can make do with just 4. 1-3 is unlikely but that would piss me off beyond belief. I’ve heard of it happening though.

This lady is beautiful nice structure budding nicely 👌 💚

Day22: As said in Week3, I will not keep this perspective for the whole grow, as it doesn't really show the size of the plant. But it gives a nice view of how to top leaves grow :) The flashes that you see in the video is the humidifier. It pumps out vapour every hour for 15mins. So basically a quarter of each second of the video will be when the humidifier runs. Day23: I changed it, as I wanted to see the size as well. Day24 - Day28: Happy, healthy growth.

1.04 Day 55 Second week of flower, stretch is still very much undergoing. Lots of lovely bud sites, end of next week will be a major defoliation and a little pk boost. Watered today, no molasses, just water. The malted barley has added some nice mold and food for the microbes, not all mold is bad 👍 Removed the humidifier, and added the dehumidifier to keep humidity below 65 at the moment. 4.04 Day 58

Всем доброго времени суток ✌️ Смотрите со 105 дня  Наконец добрался до своего минигрова и переделал коробку,извиняюсь ,что долго не выкладывал,работаю сейчас почти каждый день и бывает не особо было времени идти на локацию,тут ещё передержал растишки в шприцах,поливы бывало пропускал,быстро сохла земля,так как корни уже вылезали из под низа,потом после пересадки,растишки тупили больше месяца,я думал всё,хана им,но выходил их,чему был очень рад,дальше ещё был момент,что мягкие поддоны в боксе прохудились от старости и когда поливал обычный гров,то вода проливалась после полива и дно коробки становилось мокрым,затем сверху от тяжести лампы,коробку промялась,вообщем самое главное растишки живы и мой проект продолжает радовать Вас и меня,сделал каркас из опор для растений, теперь точно спокоен,но вот момент немного не продумал,по поводу тренировок растишек,так сказать изподвыподверта ,но ничего через тернии так сказать,в шприцах делал спецом,чтобы потом удобно было пересаживать на вулкан,делаю полив ровно в жерло вулкана )) с такой жарой,пришлось делать отвод от напольного кондея к нижнему притоку, 105 дней от каски,а я ещё не разу не кормил удобрами ,только давал от биобаза витамины,теперь точно больше не пропаду и буду часто выкладывать контент,впереди грандиозные планы ,ну и надеюсь получится сделать изюминку к концу грова

Empecé la germinación el 23/01/23 en un vaso de agua durante 12 horas, después al taper con servilleta húmeda 24 horas más. Radícula de 2cm y las planto en maceta de 1L Actualización estado de germinación 03/02/23: Meto fotos ya con las macetas rellenas al 10º día y fotos del 7º día comparando las macetas y los tallos. En cuanto el 2º par de hojas sea mas que evidente empezamos las semanas de crecimiento. Dentro de 2 o 3 semanas quizás, trasplantamos a maceta definitiva de 7Litros. Lo veremos. Actualización 06/02/23: Meto unas fotos de las plantas mas grandes, 3 días después para que se vea la diferencia de crecimiento. Además un video mostrando el cultivo entero, la luminaria y la extracción. Llevamos 13 días desde la germinación. Actualización 08/02/23: A partir de aquí voy a empezara a contar ya las semanas de crecimiento. Hemos tenido 15 días desde la germinación. Venga va, día 10/02/23 meto unas fotos mas, llevamos 17 días desde la germinación

Sorry for not uploading i had some ups and downs in my life, and with the college is really hard to work all those things together. But now i am back and going to hustle really hard.

Hello colleagues! ✋😃 Flowering is in full swing, and the left plant, which was slightly lagging behind, finally stopped, almost resting against the lamp. As bro correctly noted in the comment, the plants turned out to be quite large (once again I regret that I did not have time to test them outdoors). The buds are starting to form, I hope that the final part of the cycle will pass approx. Thank you for stopping by, and be healthy! 🙏 To be continued... 😶