Now the water has calmag as u see and the drypart 1.3 Grams per liter

This week has been great! Germination on all 4 Pre 98 Bubbas and 2 Dirty Blondes was a success!! We planted them in there pots an through out the week we gave em each a very light spray down of pure water phd at 6.5 and by Friday they all popped out the soil Let’s go!!!!! Next week we will start light feed on nutrients , so y’all keep them eyes peeled for next updates an I appreciate y’all for following my grow !!😶‍🌫️💨💨💨🙏🏻💚💯🤙🏻

Plants look,smell, and feel amazing. I think they've put on most of their weight now and the buds are starting to get really cloudy! I started the slightly older plant in the front on her flush at the end of this week. I believe the one in the back seems to be a week or 2 behind.

Great week. Cloudy days and laid off the water. Only issue has been a consistent influx of caterpillars. Have been picking them off and removing the damaged flowers. The smell is powerful. Happy growing to all the viewers. May your harvest be bountiful.

Segunda dose de chá de banana dia 10 de novembro. O caldo estava denso. Os buds estão engordando lindamente.

Hey, sie wächst wirklich gut und schnell, doch der Winter rückt immer näher und ich habe Angst das sie es nicht rechtzeitig schafft... Was denkt ihr wie viele Wochen sie noch braucht? Am 23. Juli habe ich den gemeinten Samen eingepflanzt.

Plants are responding well with the gold leaf at 4ml per gallon. The reservoir is starting to have a strong bad smell on day 3. May switch back to ph'd water at 6.5, then add gold leaf at 10ml gallon every 3 days. They're drinking water like crazy. Iowered the light to about 20", running on 580 watt.

After transplanting clone during week 1, growth has been amazing through the end of week 2. First round of LST applied mid week of week 2.

I would believe this variety again ... I think it could be better ... and do not make some mistakes in it ... I recommend it to all growers ...

Hello growers and tokers! 👋 👩‍🌾 🧑‍🌾.🔥💨 Great week for me! 😃 Finally got my new lights installed in the tent. They're working just as advertised. Ladies are absolutely in love with them and they're showing it in their growth. There's a bunch a new growth and the canopy is starting to take shape. Environment is great, Things are working out smoothly. Hope you all have a great week! Happy Growing! 😃

Curioso di questo strain che è un Breed tra una selezione di gashata di compound incrociata con un altra selezione di ethos orange velvet underground. Ancora non si sentono bene gli odori su questa...

What a fun experience! This was my first time trying a mixed grow style of synthetics and organic. I think I may have found my new go-to strategy. This definitely wasn't a perfect run by any means - as a matter of fact, I botched the feedings earlier in her life. However this grow definitely taught me a lot more about how to treat this strain properly. Now I'm running her clones in the 3x3x6. So the legacy will continue! Let's see how this strain does during the summer months! Cheers everyone! This has been an awesome grow. What I'm lacking in yield, I yet again make up for in quality. And I don't think yield will be an issue with the clones, they're week 6 veg - and quite massive! - RWI out!! 😁 😶‍🌫️🤑

This week was a bit bumpy, I found that I am dealing with a two main issues. First being that the plants are much too dense and close together. Makes it near impossible for me to remove the dead leaves that are falling on the Coco which eventually attract fungus. So far I have cleared the top of the medium the best I can without being able to see it. Second issue is that my timer for the irrigation is not functioning properly. I left for a weekend and my plant sitter did not realize the plants weren't being fertigated. Came back to my whole grow smelling of hay. After manually getting the feeding back on track they have fully recovered. Issues aside it's starting to look like chop day is 1 or 2 weeks away. Just in time for Christmas

at the moment, despite the unfavorable temperatures, the small ones still seem to hold on! we'll see what happens next!

I am preparing to harvest 💚

lol guess the ladies arent in a rush to exit the tent. on day 8 of the flush now and still see some clear trics. maybe 80% milky with 20% clear and 0 to very small amber. other then that, not too much to report. could something be making the ladies mature a little slower near the end here? doubt lol i seem to worry alot, they looks absolutely amazing, the crystals are just absolutley caked!!!!!! like CAKED

Full recovery from the accidental excess calcium. Cheese still has purple stems from lockout. However, the buds are filling up nicely. Gorilla Cookies has long skinny colas. The 4 Assed Monkey had to have the branches tied together. The branches are too weak for the weight of the buds!

Week 4 Update – Progress and Adjustments 🌱 It’s been another eventful week in my grow tent! Here’s how things are shaping up: GHF#2 Update: I decided to let GHF#2 go and followed the community's advice to rename #3 to AN#3. I’ve been preparing my osmosis water with CalMag Xtra, bringing the EC to 0.35, and adding nutrients to reach a total EC of 1.2. AN#3 This plant has been a challenge from the start, struggling with deformed cotyledons and unusual leaf patterns. However, there’s finally some good news! The roots are healthy and reaching the pot’s edges, and growth is picking up steadily. Adjusting the pH and nutrients seems to have helped a lot. BioBizz#1 I’ve moved this one to the larger tent, and it’s been performing well despite a slightly yellowish tint. It’s now on its way to flowering (currently at BT2). Unfortunately, the usual CalMag deficiency has reappeared, even with 1.3ml/L CalMag and 0.05g/L Epsom salt in the feed. AN#4 This plant is thriving with no visible deficiencies, drinking 1L per day. However, I noticed pre-flowering signs while still on an 18/4 light schedule. Has anyone else experienced this with photoperiod plants? Otherwise, everything looks great, and I’ve been feeding it at an EC of 1.5. Container Size Feedback I’ve realized that 9L pots are a bit too small for my setup. I’m watering 3L every two days now, and I believe 12-15L pots would be ideal for future grows. Timelapse Recovery! For AN#3, I identified a potential issue with the pH of the drain water—it was as low as 5.3 after its first feeding with Advanced Nutrients. Before that, it only received plain tap water. I’ve corrected this with pH-adjusted water (6.6) and nutrients at an EC of 0.9. You can see its steady recovery in the timelapse! Overall, things are coming together, and I’m excited to see how the plants perform in the coming weeks. Thanks for following along!

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.