always love growing do si dos, very reliable strain, euphoric

Transplanted the girls into larger containers with fresh soil. The soil is a blend of Peat Moss one Perlite. I then mixed some older soil with the new Peat/Perlite blend. After the transplant I watered with Recharge to help get some healthy microbes starting to develop in the soil. The Baox clones did not make it, I threw them away and started some fresh seeds. The new seeds started are Blackberry, DinaMed and Cherry. It should be interesting to compare how these new seeds develop compared to the seeds that have struggled so far. I'm hoping to see some nice improvements over the next few weeks. Stay tuned...

She is now in preflower showing budsite/tops. So far i counted 10. Still doing LST and did a light defoliation removing maybe 5 leaves. She is growing nicely with a decently even canopy. I have started 1/4 strength nutrients. Calmag, fox farms big bloom, and fox farms tiger bloom.

Well, the drought stress in week 11 really fucked my plants up, but Twiggy recovered, while Zoey was hurt pretty bad. If I did nothing, I'm betting harvest would've been 25% more, and Zoey's buds wouldn't look so crappy, but overall, I was so happy with this grow! I was under a time crunch, so only did minimal veg for 4 weeks, topping once. Daily watering with 1.8EC mix that was pretty consistent. Kept pH between 5.5 and 5.8. Kept tight control on humidity and temperature up to mid flower, then kept air circulation on to keep room humidity around 55% Things I'd do differently: 1. Veg longer - I'd love to try a mainline 2. Canopy control - wish I had spent the time on a SCROG screen, or at least a couple of rings. 3. More light sooner into flower. Waited about 4 weeks into flower before maxing out the light. Probably could've bulked them up significantly if I started earlier 4. Drought stressing - For Fucks Sake, keep a close eye on your plants, and the minute they start to wilt, get the water back on 'em!!! 5. Measure your run-off more frequently for salt build-up. Didn't have any problems, but it's a good best practice. 6. Set up proper closed-loop environment to allow for CO2 enrichment. 7. Set up a clone environment before you get to flower. Oops. Things I was happy with: 1. VPD control system (heat, humidity) during veg and early flower worked flawlessly. Never any nute burn, and super healthy plants. 2. Sterilized soil and grow-room before starting - never had a single bug or any mold/mildew issues. Used a MERV 13 filter on the air intake, exhaust through carbon to crawlspace. 3. Coco/perlite mix - super drainage, low build-up, very healthy roots. 4. Power meter - neat way to measure what's really going into the grow, so when your wife complains about power usage, you can show her the real numbers. 5. Photone app on Android S20 - Knew where my PPFD was for optimal growth control. 6. REX-C100 PID controller for toaster oven - super tight temperature control comes in handy for decarbing as well as toasting oak for moonshine.

Starting to sugar up a bit 😁, very slight tip burn so calmag'd with 10ml in 6L each, then gave it a good water and this is the day after next fert. They got 10ml of big bud, bud candy, and bud factor x each.

Week 19 Canuk Seeds Sweet Tooth Auto 180 watt LED Coco Flushy flushy!! 🇨🇦🤗🌴👌👍🙏👊

Hi guys, welcome back to Mrs Peaky's Gardens . these biscuits are swelling their buds so my opinion is that there was some problem in the vegetative phase that immediately pushed them to flower meanwhile we continue to fatten them 👩‍🌾

High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

The tricombe production on this strain is ridiculous! It looks amazing under my microscope. The heads are mostly milky coloured so this may be finishing sooner than expected. The space in the tent is getting a bit tight so I'll be glad to have more room when this lady has done her thing.

3 lemon autos still growing and only starting to preflower hopefully they turn out to be super autos 12 weeks in and still growing

Day 64 - Started off week 10 with 2 gallons of water and nutes today. I’ll be chopping my Cherry Cookies in about 2 weeks so she’ll have a little more room in the tent to stretch and get some light. She’s fine right now but a little cramped. Had a few of the lower leaves that were died off and just hanging on so removed them as well. Day 66 - Nothing much new going on today. Removed a few more dying fan leaves again. Gave her a bit more water than I normally do so she should be good for another couple days. She’s definitely budding up nicely and just waiting for her to really start frosting up. Day 67 - All looking good and coming along nicely. She’s budding up and just waiting for the frost to start. She’s gonna need some water and nutes tomorrow. Day 68 - Gave her 2 gallons of water and nutes today and she’s doing really well. Buds are forming nicely but still not seeing any trich development yet but I’m sure that’ll come soon enough. She is putting off a little bit of a smell right now and it’s almost like straight lemon. Not sure if that’s how this strain is supposed to smell but I’m liking it. She’ll have a bit more room to stretch out next weekend when I chop my Cherry Cookies. Day 69 - She’s still budding up nicely and hopefully this coming weekend she’ll be less constricted when I chop the Cherry Cookies. She’s drinking quite a bit and will probably need water and nutes again on Tuesday. Still not seeing much trich development so not sure what’s causing that but we’ll see what happens in the end. Day 70 - The end of week 10 today and looking through my jewelers loupe, I finally see some trichs starting to develop. So hopefully in the next week or so, I’ll be able to get a good smell coming from her. She’s going to be needing some water and nutes tomorrow.

This was my first grow, and I will not grow again during long time due to difficulties. But I will retry as soon as I can. This grow was very instructive for me, I learned a lot of informations about cannabis growing and now I think I can do better rendement by preventing somes errors. I tried to smoke it after 5 days of dry in the box with extractor (and sometime water glass), and she got a nice back flavour and good effect 😄

Introducing Comeback Kush #71. harvest day is the 25th of December.

the growth of my girls is slowed down, due to the techniques of hst ..... in return my tops are becoming dense and robust. we will see some beautiful ones see you around friends

plants are looking great, nice and thick and growing well. Smells are increasing and so is bud density. Giving them water and the occasional top dressing, They should be fine till harvest now. Added in some bokashi grains to the medium to help unlock even more potential for the plants and nutrient uptake. If that's how it works, more a less kitchen sink mentality and does not seem to hurt. Going to be hard to check the trichomes on this plant as it is so dark but will need to keep and eye on it in the next few weeks and it will be getting close to its estimated 13w harvest date. I made a little tea out of some of the flower the spider mites/thrips where not touching. in hopes some of the extract will stay on the plant and prevent them from eating it, I honestly can't tell if it did a thing, I like to think it did something but doubtful. Also got my hands on a bunch of predator mites. There where a bit past the BB date so hopefully they will still be active/alive. Side note uploading videos into the diaries is great and all, but takes to long to resize and process, can't hit save till its all done... no idea what its doing in the backend.

D22. Defoliated, gave plain RO water and dimmed the light. Next is auto irrigation. D23. Finally received all of the Athena nutrients and fed for the first time. D25. Removed the small runt plant with the twisted stem. The plant started growing pollen sacks. D26. Raised light as much as I could without using zip ties. PPFD now 650-790. EC tonight 2.4.