Day 27- day 1 flower Flip to 12-12 Day 28-day 2 flower Calmag -0.8ml Coco A - 1.5 Coco B- 1.5 Roots -0.2 Day 29-Day 3 flower Calmag -0.8ml Coco A - 2.5 Coco B- 2.5 Active boost -2ml Roots -0.2 Day 30- Day 4 Watered Coco A - 2.5 Coco B- 2.5 Active boost -2ml Roots -0.2 Day 31–day 5 Watered Day 32– day 6 Watered Day33- day 7 Watered Day 34-8 Watered last night so nothing today Day35–9 Watered Day 36-10 Watered Day 37-11 No feed, Day 38–12 Fed 1.5L Day 39-13 Watered Day40-14 Fed pk Day 41-15 Fed 1.7 coco a 1.7 coco b 2 ml boost 1 ml Pk Day 42-16- started adding pk Fed Day 43-17 Fed Day 44-18 Fed 600 ml just before lights out 1L lights on Day 45-19 Fed 1.6 L Day 46-20 Fed 1.5L Day 47-21 Fed 1.5L Day48-22 signs of potassium deficiency so keeping the food levels up for few more days , started with light feeding but now doing heavy feed chart . -Starting to give off a berry and gas smell . Day48-23 Fed 2L She’s thirsty today . Usually start to see runoff after 1.2 Lbur nothing Ml/L Watered 2.5 coco a 2.5 cocoa 2 sumo boost 2ml by accident instead of 1 Day 49-24 Fed 1.5L Day 50-25 Skipped feed to try lower humidity Day 51 Fed 2 L but no run off . Think she’s thirsty from no water yesterday . Will do another 500 ml to see run off if not I’ll leave it at that .

Top weed

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Régénération de la culture du printemps que j’ai ressorti dehors au mois d’avril et que j’ai re nourri et elle est reparti on va essayer une 2 em récolte. C’est vraiment un essai pour le fun

I just water once a day and wait for flowers to bulk June 10th added big bud

Happy Independence Day! I got this Acid Dough wet trimmed in about 2 hours which is freaking awesome! She is sticky and stinky AF!!! This is my first run by Ripper Seeds, and I am honestly very very impressed, and it takes a bit to impress me. She will not yield as much as the Wedding Cheesecake, but cutting the trim time by 75% is worth it to me. I think she will put out around 12-13 zips dry, which I am happy with for an autoflower, especially one that was ready in under 90 days. I will absolutely be growing this again, only problem is my list is sooo freaking long with autos I want to try, and I am only growing 2 autos at a time now due to only having a 4X4 tent for flowering. I hope everyone is enjoying their weekend, be safe and blaze on!!! I ended up with 12.2 OZ dry, which I am happy with, but I definitely I know I can do much better. The buds are very dense, and absolutely smell pungent AF. I really enjoyed growing this strain, which was given to me from a fellow breeder who loves Acid Dough and spun this one to an Auto. I can't wait to squeeze these buds, as I they are so sticky and dense, I believe I may be able to achieve 25% yield, something I have never done before. I will definitely be growing some more from Ripper Seeds in the future, I believe they killed it with this strain. Thanks for stopping by, be safe, and Blaze On!

Flush time for divine storm and mandarin dreams. These ladies are frosty and sticky AF! Just insane how sticky they are and the frost is like light snow, my camera just doesn't do it justice. The Mars-Hydro TSW2000 has blown me away over the course of this grow. It's definitely a high quality light and has delivered impressive results so far. Thanks for stopping by growfessors! 👽🌳💚

Todo bien en general con este seguimiento.

Día 66 (05/08) Cerrado por vacaciones Día 67 (06/08) Mi amigo viene a casa a hacer un riego con 1 Litro de H2O pH 6,5 Día 68 (07/08) Cerrado por vacaciones Día 69 (08/08) Vuelta de vacaciones! A ver como están después de 5 días sin verlas... 😱 Riego con 1 litro. OnionOG con 1.5 L Añado 3 cm de sustrato nuevo porque se ha compactado y se ven las raíces! 😢 Día 70 (09/08) Riego 500 ml H2O pH 6,55 Eliminación de algunas ramas bajas Día 71 (10/08) OnionOG vuelvo a hacer topping a todas las ramas principales! 💥 Riego 500 ml H2O pH 6,55 Sesión de fotos semanal! Día 72 (11/08) Riego con 1 Litro de Té Vegetativo de Lurpe Solutions. Preparación: 24 horas con bomba de aire (oxigenación) con ingredientes: Green Sunrise 8 ml/L + Insect Frass 16 ml/L + Hummus Lombriz 8 ml/L + Melaza 1 ml/L + Kelp Hidrolizado 0,25 g/L Aplicación foliar Kelp hidrolizado de Lurpe Solutions a 0,25 ml/l 💦Nutrients by Lurpe Solutions - www.lurpenaturalsolutions.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae

It’s been 7 days and one of my amnesia hazes is getting yellowish spots on it not 100% sure what’s the issue im going assume it’s too much water? Confused cause the other have same soil and every same amount of water and don’t have those issues I have the light right now about 1.5 ft away from the plants moved the light down I felt like they was stretching and becoming real skinny been keeping the temp about 75 and humidity somewhere around the 60% also I used fishshit today in the watering hopefully that’s helps The sour diesel I’m pretty sure I dropped the seed to deep my mistake so I removed a little soil until I seen top of it and now it’s looking like it might make it it just a little behind the amnesia haze The two in red solo cups (black Truffles) are growing pretty fast looking bit better then the amnesia haze and I found them seeds lol anyway if you looking and see anything that could help (Please do!!!) also if your using ac Infinity controller 69 I need help!!! Today the first time I messed with it to make make the 18/6 schedule and not 100% sure if I did it right yet I wanted to make it on 5am-11pm off the other 6 I had it on 24/7 all last week and not sure is that caused the yellowing or not I doubt it but I’m NEW and I’m not sure I’m a YouTube university grad 😂😂 But yea thanks for looking and I’ll try to post more day D14

Week 7 baby, ok so what's new this week well I upgraded to a new grow light and all I can say wow, it's hard to tell by pics but the sugars leaves are showing trichomes all over and growth has exploded , this light is not playing! Anyway on to week 7 will continue to feed and and monitor keep you guys posted thanks alot

The plant is looking great! Very bushy with many tops. A rather flat canopy. Still need to do some more training to flatten things out a little more.

Starting week 3, the ladies look good as far as I can tell 😉 The slight problems in week 2 turned out to be a Cal Mag problem. I have a value of 5.25 to 1 in the irrigation water, I have this value with bitter salt balanced out that a 3 to 1 value is created and also foliar fertilization was carried out, this seems to be good for the ladies. As an information, the Cherry Cola Auto already has a very strong smell so it is not recommended without an activated carbon filter. I hope the aroma becomes even more intense when it blooms 😋 Week 3 Day 6 it appears the Cherry Cola Auto is now in pre-flowering I will adjust the fertilizer next week for pre-flowering. The Gorilla Cookies Auto shows no signs of pre-flowering yet.

Im Zelt stehen noch die 3 Lemon Cherry Gelato und die 1 Strawberry Lemonade hab jetzt heute die Blüte eingeleitet :)

And here we are! The end of week 7. And these girls are basically ready. I'm gonna wait a few more days but by Tuesday I predict that I'll pluck them. They are just perfect looking. Fat buds loaded with resin. The smell is interesting. A subtile sweet sugary smell. With a hint of fuel. Very hard to pin down and will be curious with how the final product turns out. I've been ramping up the UVB 310 over these weeks. Now it's been at 4 hours for the last few days. The girls don't seem to mind. Idk if it has had an effect or not at this moment but I plan on continuing it in the future. Watering every day or two. Not giving them as much now tho. Letting them dry out a little more. Cya at harvest!! 🍻

Está semana cortamos la Dark rose #3 cosmopolis 5 comentarios y Dark rose #2

As you can see, we might have a couple weeks left She's startin a pack on some serious weight up top.. I i've been giving hers the green sensation by Plagron nutrients and as you can see, she's got a big old top.. Every bit of a foot plus... Hope everyone is doing well, shout out to Zamnesia Seeds.. Hope this is a good one.God bless and happy growing ✌️

This will be the last week after this I will chop her down

I am waiting, and for the moment, everything is good! My plant looks healthy! I'm happy to see that :) I just started watering with nutrients, I'm quite worry about the quantity and I'm not sure about what I'm doing. For the moment, prevention is key, I don't water too much (maybe not enough but still ok I think) Edit: I stop watering with nutrients because it's bad for my plant(thank you guy for your recomendation!)