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@buddha61
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7/29 - Week 9 of veg is starting. At this point, it is just let them grow up a few inches, and also fill out the pots some more with roots before transplanting to 5 gallon fabric pots (their final homes). I also plan on mixing a 'flower blend' soil to fill up the 5g pot around the rootball that is transplanted. This recipe for the soil is taken from MaximumYield: Enhanced fruit/flower potting soil recipe This soil recipe is designed for plants that are ready to fruit or flower. In particular, this recipe works great for ornamentals that are already in bloom and for fast-growing annuals that are entering their fruiting or flowering stage. Parenthesis indicate small changes or products I'm using. 1/2 cu. ft. (60 cups) sphagnum peat moss (Promix BX) 1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) coco coir (Mother Earth Coco Peat) 1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) compost (either compost or manure) 1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) perlite 10 cups pumice (likely to just use perlite here) 5 cups worm castings 3 cups bat guano (high phosphorus) 1 cup fish bone meal (using regular bone meal, got Jobe's Bone Meal) 1 cup oyster shell 1/2 cup seabird guano (likely to just add as the high phosporous guano) 1/4 cup alfalfa meal 1/4 cup fish meal (Down to Earth Fish Meal) 2 tbsp. langbeinite (Down to Earth Langeinite) 1 tbsp. glacier rock dust (Azomite ordered from Amazon) 7/30 - While technically the morning of 7/31, lights haven't gone out yet, so it is still the 30th ;) It almost hurts posting pictures today, because they were really thirsty, but I honestly hadn't looked at them for a couple days. Anywho, the plants were watered with ~1.25 liters of water each, about 90 minutes before lights out. Will be interesting to post the 7/31 photos after a couple hours of lights on, and see the difference in appearance. I also mixed the soil for flowering, and it will now have a couple weeks to 'cook' and become ready for the plants. I did make a mistake and accidentally added 1 cup of fish meal instead of 1/4 cup (oops), and the alfalfa meal just smelled too good, so I added 1/2 cup instead of 1/4. Hopefully those 2 'changes' don't add too much nitrogen for flower, but I imagine it won't. I also instead of adding perlite (didn't want to buy a 4 cu ft bag when I needed at most 2.5 gallons (1/3 cu ft), so I opted to add 1 gallon of pumice. Since the coco peat and promix both have perlite in them, I didn't want too much added. There were also some worms from the compost that made it into the tote that is now storing the mix, so life has already started in the soil. 7/31 - It wasn't just after lights on, as I didn't have time to photo earlier, but this is just about 24 hours after watering, and praying/looking good. I had noticed that it looked like the fan had slipped down the pole a bit, and was causing some wind burn/clawing of the leaves yesterday, which probably attributed to poor looks, but looking better today! While I am not that versed in checking preflowers, from what I can tell, if I had to guess, CH#1 could be either (maybe slightly leaning towards female, thought I might have saw a couple hairs), and the #2 actually looked male to me. 8/4 - After getting home from work, and realizing I hadn't checked on the plants in a couple days and I knew they were due for water either yesterday or today, I saw some THIRSTY plants. They each got ~1.2L of water, and also a quick trim back. After checking preflowers again, I am afraid that both Chinook plants may end up male :(
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@DrGanj
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Some mild defoliation this week. Budding up nicely and starting to frost. This girl was having a foliar feed of algae last week but this week she's getting light foliar sprays of the Lacalva stress treatment from madame grow on top of her other feed. I'll do this every 2/3 mornings and I'll only lightly mist the top. I'll concentrate most of my foliar feed on the lower growth and undersides, away from the buds. This is the main reason I kept so many lower fan leaves this time.
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Всем привет, на связи Мистер Грут, решил тут показать свои творения, возможно кому то будет интересно, такие гровы больше ради удовольствия, тут будет 3 сорта, сорт Partizan нету в списке и я не могу добавить После суток замачивания, помещаю орешки на пророст, надеюсь будут живые Очень рад, что все орехи дали корешок, помещаю их в шприцв 50мл, закрыв черной изолентой от проникновения света
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Hello everyone! my ideal girl has become even more perfect)) look at the development of the buds! they are in perfect shape! beautiful and fluffy like a dandelion)) I can watch her for hours ..
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@Naujas
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42 dienos!!!! Mergaitė atrodo tiesiog nuostabiai:) Šią savaitę buvo labai karšta 33°, pagal būsimas orų prognozes kitą savaitę numatomas daug lietaus :(...... 3 mergaitės, jos visos yra mano šiauriniame balkone, jos gauna 6,3 pH vandenį su @Plagron maistinėmis medžiagomis, sėkmės visoms :).
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@Dunk_Junk
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Chopped during the week and drying now............ The first pics are taken just before harvest. Video is as it is drying out. Dry weight 140 g!!!!!!!!! Very pleased with this. Nice genetics, I'm excited to do more strains for Barneys Farm.
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Hello growers and welcome to week 6. I expect Queen Citronella to gain a lot of height this week. I will be doing the measurements shortly, but first I wanted to share some news! Queen Citronella has a new home, she hasn't moved in yet, but I'm working on it today. I will also be rearranging all the other grows and starting some new things off! I am not sure if I have mentioned it anywhere but I am using a 1.2m x 1.2.m x 1.8m tent.. I have just got a 60cm x 60cm x 140cm tent and a 300w LED. Her Majesty I hope will enjoy her new quarters. Day 36: I have lowered the light to 30cm above the tallest plants. Day 37: It is done! Queen Citronella resides in her own palace, while the rest of the plebs squat together in the communal living area. I have reorganised and moved my 4x4, mounting the carbon filter and duct fan properly in the center. Setup a 2 x 2 with a 300w LED and put the lights for both tents on the same timer (for now). I will measure and photograph Her Majesty a little later, including photos of her new home. Day 37: Added media. Height: 31cm. Fertigated 2l. Day 37.5: Alright she is really stretching fast, she grew almost 5cm in a little over 30 hours, A thought has just occurred to me; I could, if I chose to, put the Queen on a flower cycle at this point. Now I did want to do a full grow of clones, however we're talking something like another 2 weeks of veg then 2 weeks for cuttings to root, then I'd want to veg them for a few more weeks, maybe 2, 3 or 4? So that's 6-10 weeks before I start flowering. Then at least ten weeks of flowering, A week to dry, and at least a fortnight to cure. We're talking 20-25 weeks before I get to smoke it, that's six months! I probably wont be able to grow in the summer due to the heat. Now I already have the one cutting which I am hoping will root soon, which I can take forward, but I also have two more seeds. So, regretfully, I think I will change my plans. I will flower queen Citronella, starting on day 43. I still intend to do a full tent of Super Lemon Haze clones, but I think I will postpone that adventure until September. So this is now the final week or final five days of veg, she will spend the bulk of her last week of veg under a different light. We wont get much data on vegging (unless there is a significant change this week) but it'll be a nice trial run flowering with an LED light for the first time. Exciting! I am still waiting for the Epislon F1 seeds from RQS. I set their pot up today, inoculated, fed, and sowed some Dark Opal (Purple) Greek Basil and a liberal sprinkling of chamomile. I am going to germinate all five seeds in jiffy pellets and then put them all in the same 40l Day 38: I have realised Her Majesty was too tall to flower in this little tent so I snapped her neck a bit. I installed a photometer app yesterday and discovered I was blasting Citronella with 75 DLI so I raised to light up until canopy level was 40 DLI. The LED is pretty good. The HPS Dual Spectrum bulb in the main tent must be on its last legs as output was around 40 DLI for optimally positioned plants and 30 least optionally positioned. I could do to buy a new bulb. Identical replacement is about fifteen bucks, best one is about fifty. For that I could get another one of those LEDs which seems like better value. At the moment though I really need the heat. So I am thinking identical replacement. 4 days to flower cycle! Day 38.5: Replaced crappy old Dutch barn reflector with a much nicer angel wing model. Installed a significantly larger carbon filter into the main tent which has significantly increased air flow. The main tent vents into the bottom of Queen Citronella's tent, and from there and unfiltered duct fan in the far top corner exhausts it out. The exhaust pipe goes up the chimney. Why have I reorganised and moved the tents again so soon is because I was wasting power heating the little tent with the LED light, but the main tent has excess heat. Well this setup is working a treat. Citronella is sitting in a balmy 23-24 degree wind tunnel. Check out the little video of the changes. Day 39: I think her majesty likes her new quarters. It's going to be weird seeing her square in a few more days. We are 2 days into a "dry spell" I'm simulating for all my plants. Day 40: Dry spell ended. Fertigated 6l. Day 41: Fertigated 3l. Citronella's penultimate day of veg, she is going 12/12 from lights out after next. Photos taken 10:00 9/2/23. Current lights out is Citronella's last 6 hour night! Day 42: Start: Have performed pre-flower LST, HST, and defoliation. 24 hours to flower cycle. Day 42: End: photographed immediately before first 12h night. End of week summary: Huge week for Citronella. I think this LED light is pretty good. Change of plans regarding the grow and preparing her for flower. Let's see how she does.
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@Kynareth
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As you can see the plants started preflowering mid last week, so now i changed the nutrien solution with preflowering ml/L. Some roots start to appear outside the pot at the base. As you can see the biggest one is higher than the led (shit, i can't make it upper ;( ). I have to think what to do Plants look happy and healthy and have doubled it size last week, from 35 cm to 68 cm Day 46 update - I opened a groww qestion about some marks on leaves. I thought it was nutrient deficency but it seems to be nutrient excess. I have used flash clean from terra aquatica/ghe to remove salt excess at coco. I also observed that it was too dry on some plants so i will add 1 more water period along the day. I will wait 24-30 hours without watering and will change the reservoir to flowering doses. I have taken a few pics with natural light
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The main purpose of chlorophyll is to capture photons of energy. When growth is no longer a priority for a plant in nature, it will naturally sink its "no longer needed" nitrogen and switch pigments to carotene and anthocyanin, which are better-suited pigments for environmental protection rather than capturing photons (growth). This is because of all nutrients used by a plant, nitrogen in its nitrate form is highly stable and required for the rigours of electron capture, ammoniacal nitrogen readily evaporates into the air during cure/dry. The ripening stage is no longer about growth, but the main priority is protecting trichomes and opening up the oxidative capacity of the plant so it can focus 100% of filling those trichomes. Nitrogen in its elemental nitrate form is no longer required during ripening to the same degree as it was; the vast majority of growth is over. Understanding when to shift a plant's focus from rapid growth to maturation is the key to maximizing the trichome quality and terpene profile of the final product. That is the single most important decision you will make during a grow in terms of dictating smoothness, taste, and smell, I have found from my limited years of dedicated and driven study into the matter. Synthetic nutrients maintain a near full nitrate ratio comparable to ammoniacal nitrogen, whereas organic nutrients maintain a supply of ammoniacal and convert only to nitrate what is needed. This is far more beneficial for organic growers when it comes to smoke smoothness, as the higher levels of ammoniacal nitrogen are far easier to dispose/convert than nitrates come harvest, cure/dry with far more efficient margins held within leaf/bud when it comes to conversion to aminos. A good dry and cure can go a long way to a quality smooth smoke, but without a proper senescence sequence or triggered autophagic sink of nitrogen, then you will be asking far more than can be expected from a dry/cure. It's one thing to sink the last 5-10% and convert the last drips to amino acids during the dry and cure, but leaving the plant fully charged with nitrogen in the form of nitrate is simply not going to taste good, no matter how much smoke you blow up your own ass or how long you have been growing. Means nothing. Smoke quality relies on pre-harvest physiology, not just the dry and cure! The dry and cure cannot fix poor pre-harvest metabolic states. A high-quality, smooth smoke requires correct signalling before harvest. While a proper dry and cure can gently soften the edges and convert the last 5-10% of sugars into amino acids, it fundamentally cannot perform magic on a fully fertilised plant. You cannot oxidise stable nitrates (+5 charge) into a smoother state during drying. Ultimately, accept it's going to be a heavy smoke and be grateful, onwards upwards! The way in which ammoniacal nitrogen reacts to carbon sugars is critical in how it acts during oxidation and is responsible for oxidizing leftover sugars that can make the buds smoke harshly. Limited ammoniacal equals limited oxidation of excess carbons held within tissues. Just so you know, it's not an anecdotal rule that's unresolved and unsubstantiated. It's called the Maillard reaction. Signal triggers and stressors. Normally, you can only use 10-30% ammoniacal nitrogen, but as harvest closes, it is beneficial to increase this ratio 50% of ammoniacal as it assists in steering the plant towards maturation. Rather than running 50% ammoniacal nitrogen continuously until harvest, use it in short, targeted flushes/additions (e.g., 7 days) to slow internode elongation and hasten maturity. Use alongside forced larger "dry backs" (allowing the root zone to dry out significantly between watering events). Raising the Electrical Conductivity EC of the medium to create mild osmotic stress. Widening the day-to-night temperature difference and increasing the vapour pressure deficit VPD. How would you like your cola's sir? Arm length, please, no gaps with trichomes as thick as snow.
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@artems
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In the first week after transitioning to a 12/12 light cycle, I removed all restraints and supports to observe its growth, comparing it with the Permanent Marker strain. The plant looks vibrant green and has already displayed female signs 🌿. Exciting progress ahead! 😊
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@ClubRiot
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Week 10 , pH Perfect Connoisseur Bloom Part A ( 1 ml/L ) pH Perfect Connoisseur Bloom Part B ( 1 ml/L ) CarboLoad Liquid ( 2 ml/L ) Sensi Cal-Mag Xtra ( 2 ml/L ) Sensizym ( 2 ml/L ) Bio-Heaven ( 2 ml/L ) Overdrive ( 2 ml/L) Nirvana (2 ml/L)
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@Caertner
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Alter... Die Streckung ist abnormal. Bestimmt 15cm in den letzten 10 Tagen. Das ist jetzt Ende BW3... langsam sollte Schluss sein, aber Stiele und Blüten wachsen und wachsen. Habe jetzt beim Wasserwechsel mal auf Black Forest Seeds Oma's Blühwunder Umgestellt... mal sehen. Bisherige Ergebnisse mit Opa's Wuchseunder waren vielversprechend. Update: Bevor sie in die Lampe wächst, wird geknickt... war bei der letzten auch schon gut.
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Blütetag 40: Der Wasserverbrauch steigt stark an. Gerade die Lemon Drizzle X Purple Punch hat enormen Durst. Der Geruch wird immer intensiver und die Blüten entwickeln sich schnell. Es zeigen sich leichte Purple Eigenschaften der Purple Lemonade. Bislang keine Krankheiten oder Nährstoffdefizite erkennbar.
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@GrowerGaz
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Very easy strain to grow yields well as has some cheese in the cross. Flavour is sweet with cheese with an old school earthy twist from the black Domina
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I’ve changed to a 12/12 light cycle, removed a few big fan leaves, and tied 2 of the plants tops down..