The plants had water week one and most of week , then at the end of week 2 I added a little Elite 91 roots to the feeds. I started these outside and have repotted them today into 5 litres pots, premixed with some Greenhouse Feed Biogrow . They also came inside today and sit under by 100w Quantam board easygrow miracle. About the genetics Mr X Kush is from Plantformers a breeder and great guy from just outside Amsterdam , it is a mix of Platinum OG and Durban Poison. Kmintz from a Ripper Seeds a cross of Kush Mints and Zkittles. Sounds legit. Both strains I need to try. These were gifted by Organic Earth in Maastricht, a nice shop . They also gave me Papaya x THC bomb from Purple City Genetics in Oakland USA. Papaya x (Purple Urkel x THC Bomb) OGKZ is an OGKB x Zkittles from Humboldt seeds a breeder that always seem to bring the frost and terps in my past experience. Finally Cuppa T is a regular cross my friend made from UKORG Disco Biscuit and Connoiseur Gentics Purple Cheddar

Starting off week 8 pretty solid. High Tide amendment from Commonwealth Canna has really helped the plants out. Added a 4 foot stake to the tallest plant. Pound Cake does not need much nutrients. My tips were burned as a result of too much Humic Acid in weeks 3-4. You and learn. Besides for that issue, they are rolling alone very nicely.

This week i‘ve started to feed my little girls with nutrients again. The ladies doing a great job and started to produce some purple buds with frosty trichomes.

Light dimmed up to 50%, first topping on day 41, ready to up pot to the final 5 gal pots as soon as I have a chance, so much gardening right now, inside & out...

Galway through flower period rn.

This bean is during me CRAZY 🤣🤣🤣 I had some slow growth with my RuntZ, but they are on the go. This strain —- I gotta get the conditions right for it. It seems to prefer less water and more heat?? I am not flowering this strain until I can take 5-6 Clone’s off of it. It’s been feed SST, LABS, bacteria, fungi, rain dances. Just isn’t responding like I assumed, but I am taking responsibility for the issues, NOT the cultivar. 11-3 And……we are back in the game!!! The inputs began showing the effectiveness. Leaves are larger, no stretching. The bean just took a second to “kick” in gear with some added help. This is going to be a very long VEG…we are talking 4-5 months before I flower this. I want multiple clones off this strain so my summer grow outdoor is going to be SICK ( 6 ft tall ladies).

The discoloured images are zoomed in iomages through a magnifying glass. The main plants are very close to harvest =] I will begin flushing I think after 1 bout of Cannazym, with aim to harvest ~10 days after. I will tailor each to the plant's unique stage of life, as they're not all equal EDIT: Thank you to one of my commentors; Ezzjaygrows answered grow question 6 days ago Yeah I see no point in going to 10.. your diary says these are autos tho? They can take more than 12 hours of light. You got multiple strains going or what? I do have multiple strains, but they're all auto. Thank you for the point added to the list of things learned. I knew they could take more than 12h, but I was managing remotely, and I thought anything but 12-12 would require , say, 18h for 6 weeks, 16 for 2, 12hr for flush period (I'm aware had I given them more light it wouldnt have taken 12-13 weeks.) On the positive side, I saved a picture of a "best case" Creme Mandarine bud, and reasoned my way to "Yeah mine will probably be 35% as nice, in quality, yield etc." - Sure, these arent Cup winners, but FUCK ME, did they turn out so much better than i expected. Now why's that?; I humbled myself and lurked Creme Mandarine grows and learned and learned and learned. So thank you 'Ezzjaygrows', and thank you Growdiaries =] Don't worry. My 2nd will be diarie'd too, and this time, I wont be remote managing with literal remote CCTV and PH meters/Moisture meters in the CCTV shot. I lost 2 seeds thanks to the person i delegated minor observational management too, a young plant was let to dry out, harming it later on it life, AND he second guessed me constantly. Tera Vega / PK was missed because he thought he knew better.. Which he does... For outdoor.

Easy grow, pretty stable Gen, lets grow 🤙🏻

okay, I was a bit confused with the dates uploading the diary, put these pics and video in week 4 of flower yesterday... last pictures and video are at day 33F they got dense bud compactor this week except the grinspoon... dense you have to use once in the last 3 weeks of flower each, minus the flush. so week 5-6-7 of flower. grin will get it at 11-12-13....:D:D

: 📆 Semana de Cosecha – Blue Zushi La Blue Zushi llega al final de su ciclo con una presencia arrolladora. ✂️💎 Los tricomas están en su punto justo, con mayoría lechosa y toques ámbar que marcan el momento ideal. Los cogollos son duros, pesados y completamente nevados, con ese tono azulado que la convierte en una planta de escaparate. El olor es profundo y embriagador, mezcla de cítricos dulces, kush cremoso y especias suaves que anticipan un perfil terpénico de categoría. La resina habla sola: pegajosa, densa y presente incluso en las hojas más bajas. Se corta en su mejor momento, tras semanas de mimo con XpertNutrients y el empuje final de Sticky Fingers, que ha redondeado la floración con una capa extra de calidad. Blue Zushi al bote. Cultivo cerrado con broche de oro. 💚✂️ ¡Cosechamos fuerte! 💪

Day 16-27/12/21 all looking good!!!! Day 20-31/12/21 still haven’t got space in other tent yet so hopefully can move half of them out this one next week!!!!

C.O.P AUTO Dutch Passion Seeds Critical Orange Punch Auto Day 52 From Germination 31st March 2020 Hi everyone I hope you are all keeping safe . 😀 C.O.P auto is doing well in her little possie in the growtent next to the fan 😃 She's pretty much on cruise control and I just add water and a few supplements when she looks thirsty A very easy to grow auto plant so far I must say 👌 Ive started to notice some smell coming thru now , not quite orange but definately something like that 👍 That is all for this week thanks for stopping by 👊

All have taken well to nutrients, will probably keep at same ratio throughout flowering. Will also be using 1ml/l of b52 from flower week 3 and then ripen before flush. A few seem to be fattening up before the others but all are doing OK. Will update every 1-2days.

You are back, we are so happy that you have no life just like me. Thank you for Zamnesia and Plagron for giving me this life tonight and making me feel productive, talking of productive if you want your plants to be more so then give them a visit. Now on with your next episode of "TFTC: The Experiment". {--💩===👻---💀===👽---[:(⚪⬜🔺) oO===Oo (🔺⬜⚪):]---👽===💀---👻===💩---} The whole bending the plants to create an even canopy is looking messy, but from looking at the plants that the biologist did this to, I realize that this is just how it looks, that they turn into little bushes, very cool. The three plants are growing quickly, keeping on top of their training takes a lot of effort. THe people were in a flurry of activity this week, lots of things were being done and it looked like there was some great progress. Having done the groundwork we now had a solid foundation to build from, there were a few storage areas and a barn that was built, the planting was under way and the community was thriving, there were issues however. The main complaint was over food, people now had enough space as we spent most of the day outside and only came in for equipment, food or sleep. After listening to everyone's complaints growing louder and more frequent, we decided to send out a party of people to forage for fresh food, anything that would make mealtimes more interesting. Another seven people were sent out including myself, we used the map I had drawn up to plan a route through areas most likely to contain things like mushrooms, tubers, and early herbs and berries. The world at this point thrived with spring activity, we found spring mushrooms, a few tubers and wild garlic that was forming large leaves on part of the forest floor. That night there was a celebration, people were soo excited for a change in food that it became like christmas for everyone, a massive mushroom stew was made using some of the dried ingredients and most importantly, fresh garlic. It was delicious, the fact that we had been working so hard to get the community going and surviving on nutritional pulp for the last month meant everyone was ready for the change in diet, it had a noticeable effect on people. The next day people went to their tasks with renewed vigour, they built, planted and planned with increased energy, we even continued to send out small groups to forage and maintain a stream of fresh foods to help our nutrition and mood. Watching my plants I realized that they might need something similar, they are in the tent now and thriving, yet they might need something to help in the new growth, so it was time to start using the nutrients that the guide had said for when the plants went into flower. After the first few fertigation's (I am learning fancy new words), some burning was appearing on leaf tips, maybe this is plant overeating, so I will experiment and look for the signs to tell me where the sweet spot is. It appeared important for the plants to have the right environment for optimum growth, much like people, they needed to have the right things round them so that they would survive and thrive, if we had opened the bunker door to a desert I am sure that people would not be as eager to be outside, or as eager to try and get the community running, in fact, one way or another it likely would have meant our death. I retired that night, wondering on the need for environmental conditions sustain any form of life, nothing can live in a place that is completely hostile unless an environment was created for them. SO I lay down in my Stasis chamber, away from everyone, just the bodies still down here… we should bury them soon. My thoughts on environmental design helped me drift off to sleep. {--💩===👻---💀===👽---[:(⚪⬜🔺) oO===Oo (🔺⬜⚪):]---👽===💀---👻===💩---} Still here? Good, let me tell you about our wonderful competition organisers Plagron and Zamnesia, they are wonderful. On to the next episode. I should have been a hand model, for farmers weekly or person wish smashed up hands magazine. There are a umber of photos missing, yeah you all know why.

Hello Gromigos, well, I've lost the count of days with hell hell temps, always around 95°F. Cookie is starting to stretch but internode length is incredibly short. This pheno is perfect for indoor growing in a large pot, a single but great plant. I've trained to low main bud obtaining an homogeneous canopy. Now branches are full formed and fat. Incredibly hybrid vigour. No need for fertilization, maybe 1-2 shoots later, in blooming. I'm watering them every other day with 2 gallons each, little by little, trying to avoid past's run mistakes.

Day 64. All looking good. Gave her some banana fertilizer and some Blackstrap molasses. Sprayed all the foliage around her again with safe insecticide and found some aphid nests around her too and nuked them 😎. Little defoliation of popcorn bud sites and leaves feeding into the branches and stems blocking sun from bud sites. Water only with molasses for the next 3 weeks. Weather is looking great for the next few weeks so looking forward to end result! 🤓 Day 68. She is starting to buff out 😍. Gave her some water with molasses.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Satisfecho pero voy por mejorar los parámetros en la siguiente para ver algún cambio, como también cambiar de banco de semillas a uno nacional (Chile) y serán Fem.

Nice and steady growth. Once I watered I can leave the ladies alone for a few days without having to be affraid of any problems. I'm still picking leaves when they are blocking any buds, but thats all I'm doing.