W#8 D53 - pink n

Trying to figure out why the zit is lagging behind. I may have pissed her off by doing to much deflowering. Also working to figure out feeding and water schedule. Been using cap sized pour into gallon so need to figure out what that translates per gallon - 1 cap cal mag - 2 cap tiger bloom - 2 cap big bloom Also used - 4 tablespoons of ph down acidifier in zit - 2 tablespoons in other two

Another successful grow! This strain has an intense, sweet aroma and resinous buds. Despite their small size, I'm happy with the result. ✌️

Day 1- 7 Eingesät mit etwas Wasser, danach ab ins Zelt. Dies ist mein 3. Grow, aber mein erster Indoor. Nach 3 Tagen sind die Planzen aus der Erde gestochen. Wenige Tage später fingen die kleinen ein wenig an zu Spargeln, weshalb ich etwas Erde nachgegeben und die Lichtstärke intensiviert habe. Mittlerweile sehen die Pflanzen recht gut aus. Die Hulkberry entwickelt derzeit einen leichten Gelbton in den ersten Blättern und deren Adern. Ich versuche ende der Woche ein wenig Biogrow Dünger zu reichen.

22/04 Day 1 of flower. Did a bit of leaf tucking and took some off the plants. Also prunned them in the lower half of the plants. Upped EC to 1.45 aprox and today the lights for 12/12 Autopots are amazing, haven't done much this past few weeks other than check ph and the growth is super fast. Let's see how much they stretch in flower

Day 51 - Ladies are stretching sooo much, still can't believe I'm growing plants this big! Day 53 - Introduced Big Bud Coco yesterday and raised Voodo Juice, Tarantula and Bud Candy at 1,5ml/L. I'm going to stop with the first two at day 56, the plants are big enough for my closet 😅 Stay safe and keep growing 🙏🏼🌱✌️🏼

I am glad the 3rd time the charm with this one. Seeds are on the smallish side, I suggest the breeders start the reversal process 2 weeks prior to treatment, allowing more time for everything to form this will allow for bigger seeds in the end and should resolve this tiny seed problem. As you can see with this 3rd time the charm, it is really growing well. Due to a miscalculation I do not have any room for it as yet so it will have to stay small and bushy in the seedling station until i can make some room somewhere. I will use some tricks to make it grow small and compact. Here is one of my biggest old school hacks my great uncle showed me when I was very small. I always place all of my seed into a magnetic field for a few seconds, this aligns the ferrite molecules in the seeds unlocking their genetic potential. Numerous authors have established the positive influence of the stationary magnetic field on the plant seeds. The treatment fastens plants development, improves germination and seedling growth, and activates protein formation and enzymes activity. I also like to use corse sandpaper rolled into a tube and then shake my seeds in this tube, which scrapes the outside of the hard seed shells allowing for easier water ingress. I then place the seeds to soak in the seaweed water at about 25c for 12 to 24 hours. Once The seeds have cracked open I gently place them into a seedling soil mix in a 6" pot and then placed into the warm, moist arms of the seedling station. Which will protect and nurture them until it it time to go into their final pots. I find that this method ensures germination and quick, vigorous growth. It is a particularly good method to use on very old seeds and/or seeds that were not stored correctly. Also I no longer disinfect my seeds because new studies have shown the plants actually place bacteria on the outside of the shell of the seed and inside the seed to ensure the plant has all it needs to thrive

The veg cycle went well and with out any major issues. Even the the pH was bouncing, she never showed signs of deficiency or stress. It wasnt until flower set in that they got real sensitive to the pH fluctuations and I had to change up some of my nutes to get her back in line but damage was doe that prevented her from swelling up in time before the trichs started to really go amber. Lesson learned, stick to tried and true nutrients and only change up a bit at a time. I have not given up on masterblend nutrients, they veg'd great on it. I will try it again this time with proper pH down instead of the TNB. Once I have processed the trim and larf into dry ice hash, I'll update with more pics and weights of hash. I also feel that heavy defoiling would have helped greatly as well. They both had thick bushy centers and I let Lloyd go more natural and Harry I defoiled some along the way. Harry produced more and nicer quality buds vs no defoil Lloyd. Running a dutch bucket set up for the first time was a big learning curve from using the largest grade perlite to reservoir size to system layout and maintenance. I really enjoyed the overall hands off watering but would recommend going with a much larger reservoir than twice your buckets capacity, milder ec swings and less top offs. Now I am fully impressed with the lighting. I only used 220 watts in a 4x2 tent, yes only 220 watts but still yielded 344g of dried buds or 1.57g/watt plus another 200g of larfy stuff for the hash/edible pile plus a good amount of trim. Never had any heat issues and they just simply put out the PAR like no other for the watts. I have ordered a 3rd qb288 to go in my tent for my next run going on now. Lloyd dried over an 11 day period at a temp range of 64 to 69F with rh 58 to 64%. Harry had a better manicure trim and I removed a lot of small leaf matter from Harry and harry dried out in only 6 days in the same room. Harry is more foxtail sativa in structure vs Lloyd. Smoke report I decided to try not flushing this grow to see how it goes. Being a hydro run, I feed all the way until harvest and the taste is very smooth, not harsh by any means. Very strong culinary herbs and spice flavors with a subtle fruit pie finish (think spiced christmas fruit pies). Absolutely delicious even without a long cure. Aroma is gaining daily and it just gets better. Effect is immediately felt in the cerebral cortex. Very uplifting creative feeling pleasant high. It's great for brain storming, organizing the grow room, and very conversational (I'm more of a resevered person but cant shut up on this). If I had to guess potency, i would put her in the 15 to 20% range. Effects linger for hours but the main rush is done in about 90 to 120 minutes. I would definitely grow again. Made dry ice hash today, hand shredded up 8 oz of larf and 2.5 oz of trim, sifted over a parchment paper lined table. I only have a 73 and 220 bag. 73 or purest yielded 9g, 220 first shake yielded an additional 16g, and 220 2nd shake yielded 30g for a total of 54g of kief

2024-07-13 Indoor The Indoor Lady is fading, chrystals are building and well i think the longest Time for her is over and we are slowly coming to an end. OUTDOOR Despite the bad outdoor conditions, the Tangerine Snow stands brave and strong i was feeding her today, and i think i have seen some Preflowers? this week i made Videos from Both, In and- Outdoor Plants BREEDER INFO Tangerine Snow F1 Fast Feminised is a 75% sativa, four-way cross of (Boost x Tangelo) with (Lavender x Power Plant). This Fast F1 hybrid is bred from Cali genetics and boasts great citrus terps, high resin production for extracts, high levels of THC, very good yields and excellent mould resistance. Tangerine Snow F1 Fast can be grown indoors as well as outdoors. Indoor flowering times are between 8 - 10 weeks while harvest time in northern latitudes is during September while in the southern hemisphere growers will be harvesting during March. Recommended climate regions are hot, dry, humid and warm. These are tall, semi-branched plants that grow in excess of 200cm and display a high degree of vigour with very good uniformity. In common with many other heavily sativa-dominant strains, Tangerine Snow F1 Fast offers excellent resistance to mould as well as to plant pests and diseases. The combination of citrus terps and plenty of resin makes thi a very good extract strain with the 'washing' method delivering very good yields of hash. The citrus terpene profile is reminiscent of mandarins and tangerines and also has sweet candy notes. THC production has been lab-verified at a strong 24% while CBD is low. The effect is uplifting and energising, perfect for use during the day and early evening.

Producing more resin now colas are starting to fill in Typical jack herer fuel smell coming from them Buds look quite light green at this stage EC 1.5 Coming up to the half way mark on a 10 week strain flowered early at 19 days of light after germination Normally plants flowered that have received fewer than 30 days veg tend to look a little bit behind schedule until week 6 to 7 when they catch up So far the SH pheno & the Fire OG are maturing at a standard rate at 35 days of flower they look like 28 to 30 days worth of flower development I expect this to catch up by day 45 at day 45 they should look like a standard 45 days of flowering development The slow phenotype has only been allowed a little bit of space this one looks like a 12week + plant I will only allow it 10 weeks it's too small to be worth waiting for her to finish Day 37 Removed some leaves at the middle of the canopy to help with light penetration Day 39 resin production and colas filling in has increased significantly over last few days starting to smell like pine along with the fuel no citrus smell

12/04/2023 - Day 1 : Placed Outside in the morning, Jiffy was shaded so it didnt get too hot on the roots. Left her ouside for 2 days as it was not raining. 15/04/2023 - Day 3: Roots just perfurated Jiffy, time to place her in the Pot and feed. After that just left her to be. Didnt feed anymore this week as it rained and the plant was doing fine Day 7 - She´s turning slightly light green

A brown leaf revealed the moldy core of the bud. Based on this sign, I harvested most of the plant. otherwise the Plant did grow well and has some terps leaning to the sour, limone side. had to throw away about 8G modly stuff from main colar. Seems to be about 30-40g left without mold.

9/9 Still looking for the cause of the top fading only on the light colored phenos think its P will address tomorrow, want a couple more weeks from these guys at least. 9/10 Looking better top dressed the Happy Frog 3 tbs/plant watered with Bio-Bloom 3tsp /gal and Big Bloom 3tsp/gal 9/13 D62 Just finishing the week things are pretty stable. Nuet issues resolved and buds building nicely taking on a more fuzzy appearance with straight new growth hairs. Pics at lights out if I remember Looking at 9/27 for a harvest date or at least its penciled in on the calendar. Next feed is full

From this week, I started giving plant growth fertilizer with a low concentration. But I will do this only once this week. The plants have almost three leaves and are growing without any problems. On the 14th day, I did topping and FIMing the plant (Barney's and Anesia). I will also give you a video on how to do this technique

2nd week of veg. Will be using Cal/Mag and Grow With Grease for watering when needed until I begin to see nute issues. 2/16 D2 adjusted LST and turned the pot for better light penetration. 2/19 D5 mid day @ 1430 3 potential main colas were topped. 2/20 D6 The girls received a lite feeding as we transition to another beautiful week of veg growth.

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Probleme

Still..... No...... Flower..... think I might have a photo. Lol

7/18/21 - They are looking good! Harvest day is coming and we are excited. We have just a few days left. Giving ph 6.0 water. 7/19/21 - Everything looks good. On track for harvest! 7/20/21 - Looking good. Just a few more days left before we chop. The final ripening is going on. 7/21/21 - We are preparing the drying room. The buds look awesome! We have mason jars for curing after the dry. 7/22/21 - These plants stink so good! Tomorrow we cut both plants down! They will be drying in 70 degrees temp and 56% humidity. 7/23/21 - We pushed back harvest one day due to a medical emergency. No biggie, the plants will ripen one extra day. 7/24/21 - HARVEST DAY!! - We cut the plants, removed all fan leaves and hung in a temperature/humidity controlled room. More pics/videos/weight and more will be added when we are finished drying and we post our harvest results. The smell is of strong pine and a little sweet. We are very excited to try the smoke. (See video)

Pedir perdón a todos chic@s por no poder realizar el seguimiento bien por covid-19...pero estamos ya de vuelta

The cannabis strain Grape Guava can be a purple strain, depending on its specific phenotype and genetic makeup. While not all phenotypes of Grape Guava are purple, some variations, such as the Zatix Grape Guava, are noted for their striking purple appearance due to the genetic expression of anthocyanin pigments. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKdVmdoKJ5k In a garden of green, Grape Guava gleams, With its fruity aroma, enchanting dreams. Clusters of grapes, guava's sweetness ignite, A strain so divine, in purple and white. Euphoria whispers, a lush fruity haze, Grape Guava's embrace, a tranquil daze. Off and away.@1400ppm. The increased CO2 allows plants to thrive at higher temperatures, which in turn necessitates higher humidity to maintain the ideal VPD for healthy growth and transpiration. 80F -5F = 75F LST with 70% RH = 0.72 kPa. Higher temperatures and humidity promote rapid growth, nutrient uptake, and photosynthesis while maintaining a lower stress level. Temperature influences the rate of enzymatic reactions involved in aerobic respiration. Enzymes, such as those involved in glycolysis, the Krebs cycle, and the electron transport chain, work most efficiently at an optimal temperature range. In low temperatures, enzymatic activity will slow down, thus reducing the rate of aerobic respiration. In high temperatures, enzymes can become denatured, thus impairing their function and stopping the process of aerobic respiration. Glucose is the primary fuel for aerobic respiration. The rate of aerobic respiration increases with the availability of glucose, as it is the starting point for glycolysis. If glucose levels are low, cells may rely on alternative energy sources such as fatty acids or amino acids , but these processes may yield less ATP or be less efficient. To determine this effect, carbon dioxide volume was measured (as carbon dioxide is an output of aerobic respiration) 18/6 with the 6 being IR. The near infrared (IR-a) borders around 700nm up to 1400nm @ photon par flux density of 1.8 instead of darkness, keeping temps overnight a neat 77F-80F. Think of my tent as a lung. What goes in must come out. When the rate of air going out exceeds the amount of air coming in, it creates a negative pressure. Tent concaves (bends in). If set up correctly, your RH will begin to drop slowly to the desired level you set, and the extraction turns off when it reaches desired% RH. The plant, as it performs cellular respiration, will always be releasing more water into the air, so the RH% of the tent overnight will always increase, so long as oxidative phosphorylation is occurring. As soon as the RH% creeps back up to 55%, the extraction turns back on, over and over. This creates a strong pressure differential which will work wonders on your grow. Replicating high and low-pressure fronts in nature. Critical for oxygen diffusion at the critical time of peak cellular respiratory function.. Moisture will not transfer from a saturated atmosphere to another if that air is already at or above its saturation point, meaning the air can't hold any more water vapor. Once I understood that water is produced as a by product during cellular respiration, specifically at the very end of the electron transport chain (ETC) where electrons are finally transferred to molecular oxygen, the higher the RH of the air, the more resistance there is for more moisture to be added to that environment, and effects the ease with which it does so. But none of that water comes from the pot; it's pulled from the air. If you run high daytime RH, your medium/pot is 100% reliant on transpirational root pull to move water. ZERO evaporation happens across the atmosphere if the tent air has high RH%, the medium cannot release its water through evaporation. Once a canopy develops, light no longer slowly wicks and evaporates from the topsoil. The Soil-Plant-Atmosphere Continuum (SPAC) describes the continuous pathway and process of water movement, driven by a gradient in water potential, from the soil, through the plant's roots, stem, and leaves, and finally evaporating into the atmosphere through transpiration. There is evaporation, there is transpiration, and then there is evapotranspiration; Evapotranspiration (ET) is the combined total of two processes: evaporation (water lost directly from soil and surface water into the atmosphere) and transpiration (water released from plants to the atmosphere through their leaves). Evapotranspiration represents the total amount of water that moves from the medium into the air. There is no such thing as a medium with too much water, only a medium that retains too much for too long. The water must always flow efficiently from one atmosphere(Medium) to another(Air) in a timely manner. Moisture is a critical factor for bacterial growth and decay. Dictating how long it's allowed to sit in any one location for any given period is a key preferred control. To ensure a net reduction in a bacterial population, the rate of removal (ET) must exceed the rate of bacterial growth (decay rate), which is often modeled as a growth rate for the specific bacterium under the given conditions. By optimizing daytime VPD, we also optimize conditions for bacterial growth to explode exponentially above 77°F.. If water is allowed to sit in a medium without an escape within a timeframe, nothing good will happen. IF High RH is maintained overnight as well as during the day, placing 100% of water movement at the behest of daytime transpiration, roots can only pull where they can reach, and if soil is compressed above a certain point, moisture will become trapped in a medium with no way of moving day or night. This will begin the countdown for decay to take hold. When water stagnates in a medium, it loses oxygen, creating anaerobic conditions that foster the growth of harmful microorganisms like bacteria and fungi, which can produce toxins and disease vectors. Thigmomorphogenesis, the process by which plants respond to mechanical stimuli like touch by altering their growth and development, results in significant morphological changes to improve survival against mechanical perturbations. This complex response involves sensing touch and initiating physiological and genetic responses, leading to changes in form and structure over days or weeks. The process is triggered by physical forces such as wind, rain, or touch. Plants adapt to these stimuli by changing their shape and structure, which may include slower growth, thickened stems, or altered leaf development. Plants possess sophisticated mechanisms to detect even subtle mechanical stimuli and initiate responses. A variety of molecules, including calcium ions, jasmonates, ethylene, and nitric oxide, are involved in signaling these mechanical inputs. Touch can induce the expression of genes that encode proteins for calcium sensing, cell wall modification, and defense mechanisms. A plant exposed to constant wind may become shorter and sturdier. A plant that is touched frequently might grow more slowly to conserve energy and develop thicker cell walls. These changes increase a plant's resilience and ability to survive in harsh environments. Let's get Thiggy with it.