New week, new growth. So we have done another defoliation to allow the lower shoots to be exposed to the lights which equal to a better yield come flower time, they always need a day or 2 recover after being put under any stress, especially if its an extreme amount of leaves being taken off. They were also lollipoped to clear up and messy under growth and to improve airflow under the canopy. I also took clones from each of these. Paying close attention to the EC and pH. Increasing and decreasing as and when I need to going off what the plants show me. Close to flower now. A few days to go! Stay tuned and feel free to follow my instagram and youtube channel for a closer look. Peace x

A busy week spent trimming and trimming and trimming ;) Really happy with these 3 Fast Buds strains - all very reliable, strong and lookin' damned fine!

So this plant is phenomenal with her recovery abilities. At this point, she recovered from her previous topping only 7 days ago, and grown the final 2 inches I was waiting for. As of 4/26, she is now on 12/12. Additional nutrients will be added to her for her flower period. Time-lapse again had an error, this time, I swear, it was not me. Looks like the camera and server stopped communicating until both were restarted. So as a reference, this plant is now 10 weeks from seed. She has been topped 3 times for a total of 8 crowns. I expect harvest to be approximately 10 weeks from now. But we all know how far expectations can take us.

Leafs are not clawing now as much compared to last week

Week 7 begins for Mandarin dreams and Divine storm. These ladies are looking happy and healthy, bulking up, putting on weight and glistening with frost. This grow and grow light is sponsored by Mars-Hydro, thank you Kaoritracy for hooking me up with the TSW2000. Thanks for stopping by growfessors, tune in next week for another episode of growfessor theatre! 👽🌳💚

Cursando el día 18 de vegetación Apliqué organic Grow de B.A.C 1 ml/lt

Week8 D1 Flush has begun for Rainbow Belts and Blue Dream- BD and RB are about 10-15% amber trichromes so I will shoot for 25% to get that nice uplifting high. Expecting to harvest BD and RB in about 5-7 days. They were watered with 6.3ph water 2 gallons each and that will most likely be last- once they dry out i will move both into a dark tent for 48hours and then chopping them down. W8 D2 looking like 5 or so more days before we chop blue. W8 D6 One more flush yesterday- harvested 4 tops that were hanging on rainbow belts- all trichromes nice and milky. The whole girls probably have another 4 - 6 days to go then I'll do a 48hour blackout and harvest. Wish me luck!

Hi everyone,This time I can update right on time and this could be the last week update before harvest.I am planning to harvest Soil girl or may be both of them next week.Hope you guys enjoy the journey.Actually Soil girl is more mature than Coco girl.More in amber trichomes.Coco girl, She got mostly cloudy trichomes and only some amber.Still not sure it will be better or not if I chop both of them together.I start giving them water only and will flush Coco girl before harvest. Let’s see if I change my mind to harvest together or not ... 😂 ✌️ 🇲🇲 Soil-Organic-LST Day 120~126 Soil RO water pH- 7.0 ppm- 10 Run off pH-6.6 ppm-550 Soil Potting Mixed Recipe 10gallon Pot -Coco peat: 30% -Soil Compost: 20% (Soil,Sand,Cow manure,Ash) -Bone meal: 10% -Earthworm fertilizer: 10% -Perlite: 15% -Marble stone: 5% -Crash egg shell: 3% -Chicken manure: 3% -Banana peels: 2% -Gypsum: 2% ——————————————— Coco-Inorganic-ScrOG Day 120~126 Coco RO water pH-7.0 ppm-10 Run off pH-6.0 ppm-1000 Coco potting mixed recipe 10gallon Pot Coco peat : 70% Perlite : 30% Transplanted from 1gallon coco/soil mixed pot at Day-42. Scrog size Area : 1ft x 1ft (30cm x 30cm) Hole size : 2” (5 cm) Material : iron welded by four steel pillars. Height from base: 6” (15cm) Happy Growing to you all... ✌️

Been slack with the updates as we are busy buidling a new greenhouse. will make sure I take nice individual photos for harvest though.

Un altra settimana è passata senza problemi...grazie alla mia perseveranza nel curarla e debellare i ragnetti Rossi che bastardelli mi sono arrivati anche dentro al box... sicuramente c'è li ho portati io involontariamente quando sono andato a vedere delle piante di un amico che erano impregnate di ragnetti e ragnatele sui fiori....vabbè ora devo sbattermi un po' più ma non lascerò che mi rovinino la mia terapia 💪👍🙏🕉️🙏... Boom Shiva Shankar 🕉️ belle le mie coccinelle 🐞 che mi tengono pulita la mia terapia

Yellow butterfly came to see me the other day; that was nice. Starting to show signs of stress on the odd leaf, localized isolated blips, blemishes, who said growing up was going to be easy! Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata. Leaf size tends to decrease in colder climates to reduce heat loss, while larger leaves are more common in warmer, humid environments. Plants in arid regions often develop smaller leaves with a thicker cuticle and/or hairs to minimize water loss through transpiration. Conversely, plants in wet environments may have larger leaves and drip tips to facilitate water runoff. Leaf size and shape can vary based on light availability. For example, leaves in shaded areas may be larger and thinner to maximize light absorption. Leaf mass per area (LMA) can be higher in stressful environments with limited nutrients, indicating a greater investment in structural components for protection and critical resource conservation. Wind speed, humidity, and soil conditions can also influence leaf morphology, leading to variations in leaf shape, size, and surface characteristics. Small leaves: Reduce water loss in arid or cold climates. Environmental conditions significantly affect gene expression in plants. Plants are sessile organisms, meaning they cannot move to escape unfavorable conditions, so they rely on gene expression to adapt to their surroundings. Environmental factors like light, temperature, water, and nutrient availability can trigger changes in gene expression, allowing plants to respond to and survive in diverse environments. Depending on the environment a young seedling encounters, the developmental program following seed germination could be skotomorphogenesis in the dark or photomorphogenesis in the light. Light signals are interpreted by a repertoire of photoreceptors followed by sophisticated gene expression networks, eventually resulting in developmental changes. The expression and functions of photoreceptors and key signaling molecules are highly coordinated and regulated at multiple levels of the central dogma in molecular biology. Light activates gene expression through the actions of positive transcriptional regulators and the relaxation of chromatin by histone acetylation. Small regulatory RNAs help attenuate the expression of light-responsive genes. Alternative splicing, protein phosphorylation/dephosphorylation, the formation of diverse transcriptional complexes, and selective protein degradation all contribute to proteome diversity and change the functions of individual proteins. Photomorphogenesis, the light-driven developmental changes in plants, significantly impacts gene expression. It involves a cascade of events where light signals, perceived by photoreceptors, trigger changes in gene expression patterns, ultimately leading to the development of a plant in response to its light environment. Genes are expressed, not dictated! While having the potential to encode proteins, genes are not automatically and constantly active. Instead, their expression (the process of turning them into proteins) is carefully regulated by the cell, responding to internal and external signals. This means that genes can be "turned on" or "turned off," and the level of expression can be adjusted, depending on the cell's needs and the surrounding environment. In plants, genes are not simply "on" or "off" but rather their expression is carefully regulated based on various factors, including the cell type, developmental stage, and environmental conditions. This means that while all cells in a plant contain the same genetic information (the same genes), different cells will express different subsets of those genes at different times. This regulation is crucial for the proper functioning and development of the plant. When a green plant is exposed to red light, much of the red light is absorbed, but some is also reflected back. The reflected red light, along with any blue light reflected from other parts of the plant, can be perceived by our eyes as purple. Carotenoids absorb light in blue-green region of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red region. They safeguard the photosynthetic machinery from excessive light by activating singlet oxygen, an oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids also quench triplet chlorophyll, which can negatively affect photosynthesis, and scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can damage cellular proteins. Additionally, carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. They serve as precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones such as abscisic acid () and strigolactones (SLs). These pigments are responsible for the orange, red, and yellow hues of fruits and vegetables, while acting as free scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is an electronically excited state of molecular oxygen (O₂). Singlet oxygen is produced as a byproduct during photosynthesis, primarily within the photosystem II (PSII) reaction center and light-harvesting antenna complex. This occurs when excess energy from excited chlorophyll molecules is transferred to molecular oxygen. While singlet oxygen can cause oxidative damage, plants have mechanisms to manage its production and mitigate its harmful effects. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is considered a reactive oxygen species (ROS). It's a form of oxygen with higher energy and reactivity compared to the more common triplet oxygen found in its ground state. Singlet oxygen is generated both in biological systems, such as during photosynthesis in plants, and in cellular processes, and through chemical and photochemical reactions. While singlet oxygen is a ROS, it's important to note that it differs from other ROS like superoxide (O₂⁻), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and hydroxyl radicals (OH) in its formation, reactivity, and specific biological roles. Non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) protects plants from damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) by dissipating excess light energy as heat. This process reduces the overexcitation of photosynthetic pigments, which can lead to the production of ROS, thus mitigating the potential for photodamage. Zeaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, plays a crucial role in photoprotection in plants by both enhancing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS). In high-light conditions, zeaxanthin is synthesized from violaxanthin through the xanthophyll cycle, and this zeaxanthin then facilitates heat dissipation of excess light energy (NPQ) and quenches harmful ROS. The Issue of Singlet Oxygen!! ROS Formation: Blue light, with its higher energy photons, can promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), including singlet oxygen, within the plant. Potential Damage: High levels of ROS can damage cellular components, including proteins, lipids, and DNA, potentially impacting plant health and productivity. Balancing Act: A balanced spectrum of light, including both blue and red light, is crucial for mitigating the harmful effects of excessive blue light and promoting optimal plant growth and stress tolerance. The Importance of Red Light: Red light (especially far-red) can help to mitigate the negative effects of excessive blue light by: Balancing the Photoreceptor Response: Red light can influence the activity of photoreceptors like phytochrome, which are involved in regulating plant responses to different light wavelengths. Enhancing Antioxidant Production: Red and blue light can stimulate the production of antioxidants, which help to neutralize ROS and protect the plant from oxidative damage. Optimizing Photosynthesis: Red light is efficiently used in photosynthesis, and its combination with blue light can lead to increased photosynthetic efficiency and biomass production. In controlled environments like greenhouses and vertical farms, optimizing the ratio of blue and red light is a key strategy for promoting healthy plant growth and yield. Understanding the interplay between blue light signaling, ROS production, and antioxidant defense mechanisms can inform breeding programs and biotechnological interventions aimed at improving plant stress resistance. In summary, while blue light is essential for plant development and photosynthesis, it's crucial to balance it with other light wavelengths, particularly red light, to prevent excessive ROS formation and promote overall plant health. Oxidative damage in plants occurs when there's an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the plant's ability to neutralize them, leading to cellular damage. This imbalance, known as oxidative stress, can result from various environmental stressors, affecting plant growth, development, and overall productivity. Causes of Oxidative Damage: Abiotic stresses: These include extreme temperatures (heat and cold), drought, salinity, heavy metal toxicity, and excessive light. Biotic stresses: Pathogen attacks and insect infestations can also trigger oxidative stress. Metabolic processes: Normal cellular activities, particularly in chloroplasts, mitochondria, and peroxisomes, can generate ROS as byproducts. Certain chlorophyll biosynthesis intermediates can produce singlet oxygen (1O2), a potent ROS, leading to oxidative damage. ROS can damage lipids (lipid peroxidation), proteins, carbohydrates, and nucleic acids (DNA). Oxidative stress can compromise the integrity of cell membranes, affecting their function and permeability. Oxidative damage can interfere with essential cellular functions, including photosynthesis, respiration, and signal transduction. In severe cases, oxidative stress can trigger programmed cell death (apoptosis). Oxidative damage can lead to stunted growth, reduced biomass, and lower crop yields. Plants have evolved intricate antioxidant defense systems to counteract oxidative stress. These include: Enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and various peroxidases scavenge ROS and neutralize their damaging effects. Antioxidant molecules like glutathione, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), C60 fullerene, and carotenoids directly neutralize ROS. Developing plant varieties with gene expression focused on enhanced antioxidant capacity and stress tolerance is crucial. Optimizing irrigation, fertilization, and other management practices can help minimize stress and oxidative damage. Applying antioxidant compounds or elicitors can help plants cope with oxidative stress. Introducing genes for enhanced antioxidant enzymes or stress-related proteins over generations. Phytohormones, also known as plant hormones, are a group of naturally occurring organic compounds that regulate plant growth, development, and various physiological processes. The five major classes of phytohormones are: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, and abscisic acid. In addition to these, other phytohormones like brassinosteroids, jasmonates, and salicylates also play significant roles. Here's a breakdown of the key phytohormones: Auxins: Primarily involved in cell elongation, root initiation, and apical dominance. Gibberellins: Promote stem elongation, seed germination, and flowering. Cytokinins: Stimulate cell division and differentiation, and delay leaf senescence. Ethylene: Regulates fruit ripening, leaf abscission, and senescence. Abscisic acid (ABA): Plays a role in seed dormancy, stomatal closure, and stress responses. Brassinosteroids: Involved in cell elongation, division, and stress responses. Jasmonates: Regulate plant defense against pathogens and herbivores, as well as other processes. Salicylic acid: Plays a role in plant defense against pathogens. 1. Red and Far-Red Light (Phytochromes): Red light: Primarily activates the phytochrome system, converting it to its active form (Pfr), which promotes processes like stem elongation and flowering. Far-red light: Inhibits the phytochrome system by converting the active Pfr form back to the inactive Pr form. This can trigger shade avoidance responses and inhibit germination. Phytohormones: Red and far-red light regulate phytohormones like auxin and gibberellins, which are involved in stem elongation and other growth processes. 2. Blue Light (Cryptochromes and Phototropins): Blue light: Activates cryptochromes and phototropins, which are involved in various processes like stomatal opening, seedling de-etiolation, and phototropism (growth towards light). Phytohormones: Blue light affects auxin levels, influencing stem growth, and also impacts other phytohormones involved in these processes. Example: Blue light can promote vegetative growth and can interact with red light to promote flowering. 3. UV-B Light (UV-B Receptors): UV-B light: Perceived by UVR8 receptors, it can affect plant growth and development and has roles in stress responses, like UV protection. Phytohormones: UV-B light can influence phytohormones involved in stress responses, potentially affecting growth and development. 4. Other Colors: Green light: Plants are generally less sensitive to green light, as chlorophyll reflects it. Other wavelengths: While less studied, other wavelengths can also influence plant growth and development through interactions with different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Key Points: Cross-Signaling: Plants often experience a mix of light wavelengths, leading to complex interactions between different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Species Variability: The precise effects of light color on phytohormones can vary between different plant species. Hormonal Interactions: Phytohormones don't act in isolation; their interactions and interplay with other phytohormones and environmental signals are critical for plant responses. The spectral ratio of light (the composition of different colors of light) significantly influences a plant's hormonal balance. Different wavelengths of light are perceived by specific photoreceptors in plants, which in turn regulate the production and activity of various plant hormones (phytohormones). These hormones then control a wide range of developmental processes.

Week 1 Crucial week: plantlet are vulnerable. Vertical stretching; I add some soil on the base of the plants. No ventilation just air humidifier and heat mat. Light ts 1000 - 25% - 15h No really watering, just water spraying

Going well

5/4 I stupidly watered everything this morning. They were pretty much perfect weight for transplant......then I watered them. Oh well. If that's the worst mistake I make I'll be ecstatic. Went back over and found my 1 gal and 2 of those wierd slanty airports that tapers and holds like a gallon and a half and washed them. I mixed up 12 gallons of soil in a garbage bag and mixed it thoroughly with my gloved hands. It's mixed good. Looking at my plants in sadness thinking, "today could've been the day" and noticed a Special Kush of average size I didn't water that weighed in the 220's. I was happy. I filled the pit arpund a cup before removing it leaving the perfect hole. Mykos and water were poured in. Plant came out of the cup REALLY easy. Suprisingly easy. This wasn't totally dry. I was amazed it came out so easy so I kinda rolled it around looking at the roots. I started lowering it in the hole and I felt something break away but it webt DIRECTLY into the hole made for it. I tucked some soil around it but it was pretty tight from packing it around the empty cup. Didn't take a picture but the plant is fine. That was an average size plant too. So I may have to give some of the strains I popped later a little longer before I transplant. After everything's been transplanted I'll need to change lighting again. I think I'll open the window and use the hps and the l.e.d on the days and nights cThat's these girls won't be hardening off. I so wanna go plant those others but my intuition tells me to wait until morning and it's been serving me well. A couple can stay in cups longer. Not much longer but still. 5/5 Transplanted everything but two this morning into 1 gals with 1/2 happy frog half ocean forest. Mykos and water used during transplant. Found put the l.e.d was on for 24hrs for a while. I made sure the timer switch was ON but it was a different cord plugged in. Oh well. All transplants went perfect. I'm picking up an adapter for the outlet so I can plug the power strip into the timer and only use one timer. I had to hang the 150watt hps back up with the 1,000 watt equivelant 105 true watts. I hope this lighting setup works. Chemdog #4 and One MK Ultra will be transplanted later today or later in the morning. I also opened the shade to the south facing window. Shits getting real. EDÌT: I FINISHED TRANSPLANTING THE LAST TWO PLANTS AND PICKED UP THE ADAPTER SO I COULD HANG THE HPS NEXT TO THE L.E.D. THEY WERE FIBE WHILE I WAS GONE. EASIEST TRANSPLANTS EVER. THEY ALL LOOKED PERKY AND HAPPY SIX OR SEVEN HOURS POST TRANSPLANT. I OPENED THE CURTAIN TO (SOUTH FACING WINDOW) BUT I MADE SURE THE PLANTS WEREN'T IN THE DIRECT LIGHT. EVEN THOUGH IT WOULD PROBABLY BE FINE. LAST TIME I HAD SEEDLING IN DIRECT LIGHT. I'LL PLAY IT BY EAR BUT IM HAPPY. EDIT 2. Went back over to meditate by the stream and do my qigong. It's 75 and BEAUTIFUL today. The girls will be going out for a few hours on days like this. Anyway when I went in I was surprised to see everything looking nice and happy with praying leaves. Nothing is in direct sunlight but damn that window let's in a lot of light. 5/6 Girls LOVED the transplant! They seem to be all happy. No stress. Easiest transplant I've done. Leaves are praying upwards so I think the lights are approx tje right distance. They'll be going outside soon to harden off. It's been in the 70s but it's rainy now. I'll play it by ear according to weather. I'll continue to monitor lighting and I may lower the hps. 5/7 The soil was super dry when I went over this morning. Everything looked awesome though. I used about a half gallon watering. I don't want to water to run off. I want to keep the nutes IN the soil. It's also easier to fix an undet watered plant than an over watered one. It came out to about a half gaterade bottle on the biggest and half that on the smallest. I'll gradually increase water after I monitor the response. The water sat on the soil for quit a while so they definitely needed it. Looking good so far. 5/8 Soil lookeddry this morning. I think I'm going to up the water. Last time I dod seeds I gave like a pink. Some plants still had a little dampness where I watered that I could see. Others looked dry but happy. I gave the REAL dry bigger ones a small circle around the rootball. Just in case. I'm thinking of lowering the hps slightly so it's at least level with tje L.E.D. That window being open gives tons of light. If u moved them slightly left they'd get DIRECT sun most of the time. I'll be bringing them outside soon to start hardening them off. EDIT: WENT TO CHECK THE GIRLS AT 5 TO MAKE SURE THEY WERENT DRIED OUT. THESE GIRLS ARENT JUST GETTING BIGGER BY THE DAY THEYRE LOOKING BIGGER FROM MORNING TO NIGHT! ITS BEEN RAINING LIKE CRAZY BUT WE WILL HAVE GREAT WEATHER NEXT WEEK AND I'LL BE BRINGING THEM OUTSIDE. I'M SUPER HAPPY WITH GROWTH SO FAR. ILL PROBABLY HST (TOP/FIM) AT THE NEXT NODE. I WANT THEM TO SETTLE IN NICELY BEFORE STRESSING THEM. 5/9 I may have stupidly uploaded doubles of pictures from today. Soil LOOKED real dry. I gave the plants their first real watering. I still went light. Almost a gallon with all plants. I know many say I should be watering to runoff but I want to keep the nutes in the soul as long as I can I don't want to overwater. I always start out careful. Once they show they xan tolerate it I'll increase water next time. This weekend it will be raining but after that we are getting some real good weather and I'll he taking the girls out to begin hardening off. I also need to take a look and top/FIM the plants now that they are settled. Also need to wash grow bags and sanitize outside. 5/10 It's pouring out. Horrible night and morning but this is about cannabis. After the watering ALL the plants shot up in size! Substantially. Leaves are over the sides of containers. I think I'm somewhere close with the watering schedule. I may bring the hps light down a little. I also NEED to start HST. I need to FIM and/or top these girls. Unfortunately I've been dealing with medical problems of my wife so I haven't got to it. If I get some sleep I may do something this morning or in the afternoon.

——————————————— Woche 09 / Tag 58-64 Blütewoche 02 / Tag 08-14 Mars Hydro FC-E3000 Floragard Professional GrowMix 11L Stofftöpfe Lichthöhe: 50cm Lichtzyklus: 12/12; PPFD: 808umol/m2/s DLi: 35mol/m2/d 24° C - 60RH 2L pro Pflanze BioBizz CalMag 1ml/1L , Hesi Blühcomplex 5ml/1L PH 6,5 Ventilator, Zu- und Abluft 24/0. ———————————————————— •Tag-58 / Blütetag-08 Die zweite Blütewoche beginnt, die Ladys haben haben einen guten Sprung gemacht. Sie sind jetzt alle ungefähr zwischen 40-45cm. Die Lichtintensität und die Lampenhöhe wurden angepasst. •Tag-60 / Blütetag-10 Alle Pflanzen wurden etwas entlaubt , anschließend wurde jede Pflanze mit 2L Wasser mit CalMag (1ml/1L) gegossen. •Tag-63 / Blütetag-13 Die Pflanzen wurden etwas entlaubt und anschließend mit jeweils 2L Wasser mit 1ml/1L CalMag gegossen.

Fortunately, the girl is still healthy and strong, nothing has changed, she smells beautiful and creates beautiful flowers 😍.

i killed the poor girl ... i had too many infrastructure issues in the form of leaks and nozzles falling off. we had a funeral, then i tore the house down and rebuilt it so we not have the same none girl related issues again. i also started another Hawaiian Thai kush seed from my rare collections of zilizopendwa -. the loved nuggets

I can’t say enough! Terpy piney gas, frosty, yield, beautiful bud structure! Just a perfect plant all around. 🏻💚

20.7.