The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Had to tie down some mains diagonally. She has more stretch than her mother for sure. Smells super skunky with that sweet candy in the background right now. Feeding every other day.
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@Roberts
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Well she has ripened and I missed my flush time. So she has been on just water for about 5 days. Will likely put into darkness then harvest in days. Thanks again AMS🤜🤛 Thank you grow diaries community for the likes, follows, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel. I greatly appreciate the support. Happy growing 🌱🌱🌱
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@BC_Green
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It has been another amazing week of the plants growing. I have been watching as the Fruity Freak leaves become progressively more fern-like, and ornamental as a result! Based on my Banizzle grows, I knew I needed to understand plant nutrients in a more meaningful way if I wanted these plants to thrive. So, I decided to get a soil test (see Ref. 1 below on how to perform a test) to understand what nutrients my plants needed. The report I received advised that I needed to add 200 lbs/acre of nitrogen, 150 lbs/acre of phosphorus, and 190 lbs/acre of potassium (see picture labeled Pic.1 (FYI you can't see these images unless you login to growdiaries)). I then researched what to do with my results (Ref. 2 helped), and I figured out that my nutrient needs of 200-150-190 fall close to a 2-1-2 ratio. I then looked at different types of organic fertilizers (see Ref. 3 and Ref. 4) and considered that I already had a 3-10-5 fertilizer (Vermibloom) on hand. I discovered Dr Earth’s Alfalfa Meal is 2-1-2 and includes beneficial bacteria and mycorrhizae (to promote healthy plant growth and disease resistance). However, I knew I would be low on nitrogen if I only used those two fertilizers. Therefore, I decided to buy some blood meal (12-0-0). I also liked that blood meal is more fast acting while the other two are more moderate. I hunted around for a solid fertilizer calculator and found an amazing tool from the University of Georgia Extension (Ref. 5). I entered all three fertilizers into the calculator, and it kicked out the exact amount of each fertilizer I needed to apply to 1 square foot (see Pic. 2). As I am using 10-gallon fabric pots (that can hold 1.5 cubic feet, but I put stone on the bottom and there’s space left at the top) I decided to use the one square foot application rate as I can always add more later, but I can’t take it away. Not only did I want to understand the nutrients I needed, but I also wanted to understand the structure of the soil (as it was not included in my test results). North Dakota State University has a nice page that discusses this (Ref. 6), and I performed a soil ribbon test (see Video 1) based on this information. I determined my soil to be medium textured (which is great), but I have seen occasional water pooling on the surface, suggesting that it may be more of a medium-fine. This means adding peat moss, coco coir, or other amendments might improve drainage (and plant hydration) and allow for roots to grow more easily. In the long run, I plan to use compost to enhance the soil structure and nutrients. I filled the bottom of my 10-gallon fabric pots with a ½” of pea stone to allow for drainage (Pic. 3). I then partially filled two 5-gallon buckets with topsoil from near where I will plant (but not in an area the roots will reach). I used a digital scale to measure the amount of fertilizers recommended by the calculator (Pic. 4, 5, and 6) and added it to one of the 5-gallon buckets (see Pic. 7). I mixed the fertilizers into the soil as evenly as possible (Pic. 8 and 9). I then poured a two-inch layer of non-fertilized soil, then peat moss, and then fertilized soil (in a roughly 2:1:1 ratio) and blended them together. I repeated this until the pot was full (getting additional soil as needed), and then I repeated the process for the other three pots. I set the filled fabric pots in my garage (Pic. 10) for two days to allow any upset bugs to flee into my garage instead of my house. I then moved the pots (wrapping them in a contractor garbage bag to prevent making a mess) into the room with the grow light. I placed a board on top of the fabric pots to insulate the plants (in their smaller pots) from the cold soil (Pic. 11). Once the soil in the fabric pots reaches room temperature, I will transplant. (Ref. 1) This video shows the method I used to take a soil sample. I didn’t have a field to test, so I took four samples from the area where I will eventually plant outdoors and blended them together. I then mailed my soil sample off to the lab, and about a week later, I received an email with a PDF of my results (included with my pictures this week). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9AwxmFxBwg&t=8s (Ref. 2) This video from the University of Minnesota Extension (many universities have agriculture extensions that can assist you with soil testing and growing information for your area) discusses what to do with your soil testing results: https://youtu.be/HYrkcfE62Pg (Ref. 3) This is a nice article that discusses organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.grow-it-organically.com/npk-fertilizer.html (Ref. 4) This article lists the NPK values of many organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.epicgardening.com/organic-fertilizers/ (Ref. 5) Many websites tout a fertilizer calculator…but this one is hands down the best I have found. If you scroll down to the bottom, you can enter any fertilizer type you want (and the cost, if you want). It will give you the exact blend of multiple fertilizers to solve your nutrient deficiencies (I included a snapshot of the solution I used in my pictures). https://aesl.ces.uga.edu/soil/fertcalc/ (Ref. 6) This is an excellent article that discusses how to evaluate your soil: https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/extension/publications/evaluating-preparing-and-amending-lawn-and-garden-soil
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day 14 added 1/2tbsp magnesium sulfate in 5gal water along with regular flower water amendments. 1gal of water per day average, bridal and thunder can take more water. Ph 6.8 today day 15 I will defoliate in a few days :) day 15 video, you see some stem action day 16 video day 17 I added (4x20w daisy-chained)80w of poop purple ancient leds Keep adding soluble PK, organic booster etc. I see the stacks relax on defoliation for a few days, maybe tomorrow morning (skip day21) I feel like I will be able to chop week 6-7 as my last grow, push hard fast-continue everything is great, soon bridal and thunder will require 1gal water per day. I would like to see even more mass. I'm extremely happy, starting to see frost day18. BIG UPDATE many short vids of final defoliation(ahead of "day 21"). Wild amendments appeared! Any recommendations for a lawnmower? Bridalparty stretched over an inch overnight, led touch diode burn on 1 spot. Raised lights slightly, Added new amendments into water. Bridal wants to drink more than 1gal per day, So I will be using almost 5gal-ish water per day not denying the plant needs-watering. I am very happy! defoliation took about 4h today.
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end off heat stress re-arrangement of room ____________________________________________ light- and watering schedule: see photos now: 12 plants 2 x Auto Orange Bud > Dutch Passion (early80's) 2 x Haze Berry Automatic > Royal Queen Seeds (2018) 2 x Auto Bubblegum > TH Seeds (late 80's) 2 x Original Auto BubbleGum > Fast Buds Company (late 80's) 1 x Strawberry Pie Auto > Fast Buds Company 1 x Gorilla Cookies Auto Seed Stockers (2015) 2 x Auto White Widow x Big Bud > Female Seeds setup + strategy: 18 seeds 3 x Auto Orange Bud (early80's) 3 x Haze Berry Automatic (2018) 3 x Auto Euforia (late 90's) 2 x Auto Bubblegum > TH Seeds (late 80's) 2 x Auto Bubblegum > Fast Butts (late 80's) 2 x Strawberry Pie Auto 1 x Gorilla-Cookies Auto (2015) 2 x Auto White Widow x Big Bud setup: 18 x gronest 2 liter 60 cm x 120 cm x 180 cm (2 x 4) growtent 4 l humidifier 25 watt axial fan 15 watt clip fan ro-filter bath room with a 50 watts room fan (-> carbon filter not necessary) ...and a lot of odds and ends. grow strategy: max yield by stressing with: 1. tiny shoes (2 l fabric pots standing on 3 plastic rings (4 cm) for max oxygen) 2. tiny growspace (18plants on 0.72 sqm) 3. many strains (8 strains) 4. annoying neighbourhood (mixing old - i.e. bubblegum (late 80's) - with young- i.e. hazeberry (2018) - genetics) 5. no stress by light or food or water 6. unintentionally too much food plus: - no lst - no hst - just leaf tucking - positioning bigger strains (euphoria, orange bud, haze berry) or just bigger phenos on less intense light spots (end of tent + edges) - music-rotation: 24 hrs reggae (for sativas) - 24 hrs classicals (because it's scientifically proofed) - 24 hrs traditionals from the hindukush region (for the indicas) max efficiency (min electricity - max yield): - light: 23 h on - 1 h off - keeping the distance of 18" (45 cm) and dimming to the right par (lux) - value depending on growing stages (see sheet: beginning 185 par ( 10000 lux/100 watt )/end 340 par ( 18000 lux/175 watt )) => ends up in approx. 170 watts in average over max 15 weeks temperatur management: - using approx. max. half of what the lamp can do keeps temperature low: my tsl 2000 is pulling max. 360 watts of the wall - i need only 175 watts, results in less temperature than using a 175 watts lamp - adjusting the temperature by using a humidifier outside of tent: blown in humidity is soaking degrees and is transported out by fan, works much better than doing the same with pure air summer extreme: no humidifier: 36°C / 35 rh - with humidifier: 29°C / 65 rh works for 1-2 weeks of real hot summer days, no mould, no signs of stress in two summers germination: seeding in waterglass spraying "basic"-water: ro-water (22 ppm) + calmag to 180 ppm every 4 - 8 hours until sprouted man versus fungus gnat: 5 days before seeding i'm running the tent with "basic"-watered pots as if there were plants inside - led on, fans on, humidifier on. Fungus gnats coming with the soil might take the chance to come out now for breeding. i'm waiting with a 9 mm rifle. in the past i found 6 gnats in 2 of 8 x 50 l biobizz lightmix bags coming out of the soil. i could eliminate every single gnat successfully ;) rotating harvest: the little ones will be harvested completely when ready. at this point only the top branches of the big ones will be cut...and the new (basic-watered) pots of the new grow will move into the tent. 2-3 weeks later the secod half of the big ones will be cut and the second half of the new grow will move in... nutes: biobizz / soil: biobizz lightmix bloom,grow,topmax,activera,algamic + aminopower instead of bio heaven (too expensive) individual feeding schedule/once a week: veg: 200 - 600 ppm bloom: 600 - 900 ppm water: ro-water with: veg: 100-150 ppm calmag bloom: 150 ppm calmag
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Hey everyone 😊. Today is the last week before the harvest 😍. I don't even know where to start 😅. I love this phenotype . It smells extremely tasty 😃, and this time I'm very curious to see if the pheno tastes better in the aero than the last time it was grown on earth. I would never have thought that it could taste better on aero than on earth, I always thought it was a Mhytos, but the last run with the Blue Gelato # 41 on aeroponic tasted even more intense than the same pheno on earth 😃. I'm really looking forward to the harvest, and of course I will bring a harvest update before the last update 😇. At the end there is also a detailed report 👍. I wish you all a lot of fun with the update, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow ☘️🍀 You can buy This Strain at : www.Zamnesia.com ☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼 Strain Gelato clone from mother (Zamnesia ) ☝️ Genetics: Wedding Cake x Gelato x Gelato 33 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow LED CXB3590 COB 55 W 1 x Sanlight S2W 62 W 💡 Flower lamp : 2 x Todogrow LED CXB3590 COB 55 W 1 x Sanlight S2W 62 W 💡 ☝️ Grow Aero System : Growtool 0.8 ☝️ Fertilizer: Canna Aqua Vega A + B , Canna Aqua Flores A + B , Rizotonic, Cannazym, CANNA Boost, Pk 13/14, Canna Cal / Mag, Canna Ph - Grow, Canna Ph-Bloom ☝️🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EG. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with ph- to 5.5 - 5.8 💦 💧
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@Comfrey
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Tropicana flowers 🌞☀️🌤️🌦️🌧️ Plant is 15 cm high because of low stress training. The length is 31 cm. Day 36: Sun is shining, 15-23 degrees, high humidity. Tropicana gets two liters of pure rainwater. Spend the day in my veggie garden working. In the evening I brought some 🐞for Tropicana because I spottet a few lice. My mood changes drastically as I find spider mites eggs, first and second stadium. Don‘t overthink that and decide to defoliate the plant immediately. I prepare a tee out of the leaves which brings fast relaxation. My mood is much better now. Day 37 In the morning with better light I find more spider mites and decide to wash the plant with rainwater. Can‘t find after any more of these little killer dwarfs. I decide to bring more beetles and check the leafs more often. Temperature is felling under 20 degrees, it‘s raining and the humidity is 87%. Day 38 In the early morning I couldn‘t find any mites on Tropicana. Got to continue controlling this in the next weeks regular. I‘m sure they are still there somewhere hidden in a dark spot. 🌦️ 13 - 21 degrees and humidity is around 60-70%. Day 39 🌦️🌧️ Very rainy day. Just let Tropicana enjoy life and tie down the top one more time. 🐞 stay since some days. One on every plant. I think the mites are a result of their start inside and no hygiene at all. Have the same with my peppers some years. 14 - 21 degrees, humidity around 84% Day 40 🌧️☁️🌤️☀️15 degrees, humidity 83% We listen to Roots Reggae, Tropicana is happy and quite busy with producing new roots, I guess. Don‘t understand when to stop low stress training. I think it’s enough now. She needs a rest. Day 41 🌧️⛈️🌧️🌧️ 15 - 19 degrees, humidity up to 89% We had rainfall today around 65 liters of water. I collected enough of it for the next weeks. Day 42 ☀️ 6 - 23 degrees. Humidity is falling. Tropicana enjoys the morning sun while she drinks and drinks and drinks…. Coffee. 😅
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@NMGDOC
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I was flushing all the plants since August 9. You can see in the videos with de microscope ( I really try my best, but it was pretty difficult) the trichomes looks cloudy and some of them looks amber. Maybe in the videos you can't see it because my hand was really shaky. August 17: all the plants were in dark. August 18: i cleaned all the plants, buds, leafs, everything..., spraying water to remove the rests of potasic soap. Today august 18, during the nigth, i'm going to harvest all the ladies. In the past 3 days i didn't watering the plants and the smell was stronger. August 19: Before dry -Critical Kush: 150g -Red dwarf: 60g -Syrup (2 plants): 270g -Lemon (4 plants): 570g
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@Canadian
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She has been suffering from excessive nitrogen and has been little bit difficult to flush them out she has been on 2 week of water only diet and now she's bouncing back from the access nutrients . growth has been very good and in the video is the first plant that appears the other are just part of my outdoor grow. Not much to say about her except that the pot has been moving around to encourage more sunlight and to see how they will behave in a different location she seems to be doing very well thank you for reading I will continue to update have a happy grow
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Starting to see some frost building up! This plant has been slower to come around but she sure shot up. I did LST a little late on the main cola so it looks a bit funky but she's living and packing on weight. I consider it a win and lesson learned <3
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This week was when I first recognized that there was something wrong.... Initially I only realized that the stems of my little girl were slightly bent downward. In some cases I have experienced this orientation when a plant is exhausted and about to got through its sleeping period but, this seemed different. In the following days I began to notice that the lower leaves were beginning to fade, the stems began to turn red, and still the leaves were bending downward and not praying to the light! At first I just figured that my plant was in need of a feeding and transplanting to a larger container but, after doing a bit of research I realized that the I may have been experiencing a phosphorus deficiency. From my understanding I knew that these plants require nutrients that is high in nitrogen during the vegetative part of its life however, I did not realize that it's still needed an adequate amount of phosphorus in this stage too. As I mentioned perviously, I decided to reuse my soil for this grow and as a result of sterlization my growing medium no longer had any nutrients to offer my plant at the time. I believe this is the reason I began to see signs of deficiencies and going forward if I ever reuse my medium again I will make sure to re-amend it before using it. *I also topped the plant at the 5th node this week as well*
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Week 10 Day 7 of flowering. 09/28: Well we are fully into flowering. Bethany is currently on her stretch. It seems to be slowing down. The gray spots ended up being some kind of deficiency. The spots ended up rusting, but as of late no new leaves have any damage caused by a deficiency. A few of the lower leaves where little light reaches have turned yellow. I gave her first feeding with Kool Bloom. Looking at mid-November for harvest. I can’t wait! 09/30: A little yellowing on the new leaves. EC levels in runoff were way too high. I waited a little too long before the last watering, so I’m sure we had some salt build up. Now that she’s bigger I’m going to water her more frequently. I also noticed some lower growth that was definitely not going to make it due to lack of light, so I decided to try out some cloning. I took two cuttings and placed them in plain bottled water to try and form some roots. Since she’s an autoflower and is currently in bloom, I’m not expecting much. But we’ll see.
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hey all, let's do an experiment with budswelling and without ! i know it will not be exact science but i will give some insight if it works or not. i have got 2 C.banana and 2Royal Gorilla on 1 plant of each sort i have done my budswelling so we can compare both strains and the effect at the end of harvest to see if it makes a difference or not. in my believe it makes a difference but i can not prove it maybe this will give an idea if it makes a difference or not. also i have put an video on how i do the budswelling with scissors or with fingers. i prefer to do it with fingers it's a lot quicker then with scissors. You need to do this on al the buds not only on top. Some say you need to do this every week but i only do it after 3or 4 weeks into flowering.
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@Andres
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I mean this genetics it's excellent ... if I would grow zombie kush again ... good job ripper seed ... she fought and was very strong against the plagues after a beginning outdoors ... she fought against the white fly. worms .. red spider and other insects ... and deserves your recognition ... it will not be the most beautiful plant with its leaves impeccable ... but she is a champion ... thank you ripper seed .. .
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If you are looking for yield then green gelato is most certainly the one you're looking for. If controlled right you can easy get 10oz per plant on these!