Hello Growmies, I'm excited to report that the main plant is flourishing! She looks incredibly lush and healthy. I'm delighted with her progress so far. The lower shoots, especially since the topping, have started to catch up nicely. I'm confident they'll reach the scrog by the time I flip her into flower next week. Currently, she isn't stretching enough for further training, but I anticipate this will change with the upcoming flip. I've also done some defoliation on the lower parts and removed a few less favorable side shoots to promote healthier growth. The other two plants are coming along in their one-liter pots, although I suspect they're nearing the limit of their root space. It's going to be interesting to see how they adapt as they transition into the flowering stage. Don't forget, here's a bonus for you: use the code ZAMMIGD2023 at Zamnesia's online store to get a 20% discount. Thanks for checking in, and stay tuned for more updates next week!

Growbox 100x100x200 cm // 900W VIPARSPECTRA LED // Biobizz light mix // 185m3 exhaust air system // FAN 40W 1-3 days // Germination and Planting into 0,5l Cups of Biobizz light mix DAY 1 Plants coming out doing well

Everything looks really great. Flower has reallt taken hold here at the end of week 5. Ive started my flower hardener (mendocino avalanche) and they really have perked up. Im getting much slower dry out than i woukd like, next time more perlite in my bottom layer for sure. These larger pots (7.5 gallon) really take some dialing in but the plants love them for sure. I habe 6 inches of roots coming out of the bottom of all of them. Ill try to get a picture.

there looking good to me i might harvest 1 this week

Just wanna smoke! Smells amazing, now is getting real started, buds are juice and shines like a star 😍 I think my buds is a little thigth and close to each other, I tried to use some rubber band but ended up trimming some leaf. I'm not sure about fan leaf and they you need, but if they are covering building buds I take them. Have some more weeks before havrest, when I have 2 weeks left I'm going to use terra aquatica Final Part 🙏 Happy grow bro

Loved growing this. Sang its praises rhe whole way through because it just looked like a beast. I like the pretty Cali strains but I always find the yields are close to frustrating for abilities not up up there. Overall the strain helped me take chances that paid off so I really enjoyed it. Will grow again. Threnneighbors should smell this on the balcony this summer 😂💚🙏🏼

Overdue diary as I was away and it showed. Another data point for me that i am a poor ourdoor growmie. Leaf miners and white flies decimated these plants. One plant actually "self topped" as the pests killed the top node. She recovered a bit after I relocated them both inside to a tent. I am doubtful they will have a full life (autos) but perseverance is my strength.

The nighttime VPD does not need to mirror the daytime VPD. Daytime VPD dictates the pull of water and nutrients, while nighttime VPD acts mostly as a prevention tool. A high nighttime VPD increases the risk of the leaf temperature dropping below the dew point, which can trigger bud rot and powdery mildew. Switched down to 12's hours of light mid-week, changed spectrum, increased light intensity from 840umol up to 1150umol at current height. Overnight from 800ppm to 1500ppm, morning compensation point (microorganisms) 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, once the apical dominance is broken. Measuring a plant's overnight CO2 emissions provides an accurate estimate of its dark respiration rate. Because photosynthesis stops in the dark, you are isolating the respiration process, which allows you to gauge how much stored energy (glucose) the plant has consumed and estimate the scale of oxidative phosphorylation. Oxidative phosphorylation is the final stage of respiration that generates the bulk of the plant's ATP (90%) and relies directly on the oxidation of these respiratory substrates NADH and FADH2 along with the consumption of oxygen. From a thermodynamic standpoint. Growth is an energy-capturing process, and the rate of that growth is bound by the available free energy (Gibbs free energy) and the First Law of Thermodynamics. While the ceiling or upper limit is dictated by free energy (such as photosynthetically active radiation), the actual amount of growth relies on how the plant balances that energy with other limiting factors. These are often described as the nine cardinal parameters of plant growth. 4 Above, 5 Below. If any one of the 9 becomes bottlenecked, the entire plant's cycle is restricted. Operating an 80F+ environment at night to force rapid carbon conversion comes with major drawbacks, as the biochemical processes work differently than the deductive logic suggests. While raising nighttime temperatures to 80F indeed accelerates respiration and speeds up the conversion of captured sugars (sink activity), doing so also radically increases the plant's overall metabolic baseline. If the plant's metabolic rate is artificially forced too high via heat, it can actually "burn" through more energy than it managed to assimilate during the day. This leads to carbohydrate starvation, stretching, and a net loss in final biomass yield. 400 ppm is near the standard ambient level; the plant's stomatal intake is the primary limiting factor, not the dark-reaction enzymes. To push 45 DLI without burning out the plant. Trying to force the conversion of a massive daylight DLI in a compressed time frame (12 hours) becomes highly inefficient because the Rubisco enzyme simply hits a saturation limit. To successfully convert a 45 DLI into dense, productive mass, the ambient CO2 generally needs to be elevated to the 1000 to 1200ppm range. This creates a steeper concentration gradient, driving the stomata to inhale CO2 fast enough to match the high photon energy. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light) so that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flowering, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework, it helps a lot nonetheless. Not saying anyone should not defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. One barely needs to defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localised growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, a lot harder to achieve metabolically at ambient 75F than at say 86F Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different from what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximise their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognised biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited, and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation from being signalled. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This can prevent triggering N starvation from having its normal impact. Manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option.

Switched to flowering this week (Nov. 1) and of course drained, cleaned and refilled the reservoir buckets with the flowering nutrient solution. Cleaning this week indicated more growth on the interior surfaces than normal so I also did a full H2O2 (3%) clean, with a good rinse afterwards. Also ran the air stone in a cleaning cycle for a few minutes. You can see that the discoloration from last week is gone, thankfully. Keeping the pH in check though I did let it slip with a few days in between readings there. Thankfully no substantial effect. I'm not sure I love the overall geometry of the plant... but it's healthy and has a decent number of colas forming so that's all that counts. Compared to the chilled and recirculated water system I used last time around, this is MUCH easier. My reservoir temps are a bit higher than I'd like but the Hydroguard is doing it's job and no issues so far. Fingers crossed it stays this way. Thanks for reading growmieverse.

16.2.25: I decided to check out the lower canopies of all plants to see if I need to get rid of any foliage. I did get rid of a few small branches and leaves. However, whilst I was doing this, I saw more garden pegs from my LST remaining. There were about 6 or more in Pink Mist alone. Additionally, on Watermelon, there were some left in, too. I'm so annoyed to see that because the plants are really stretching, and I could've potentially disrupted this by leaving the pegs in for all this time without realising it. 🤞 that I haven't compromised things too much. We'll see. I watered today with 2ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.3 containing the following nutrients; ♡ .8g Green Leaf Nutrients PK booster ♡ .5g Ecothrive Biosys I ordered quite a few things for the garden. I got Greenleaf Nutrients Sea K(elp) and Mega Crop Parts A+B. To go with their PK Booster I got last month. I'm excited to try it all together. Next run, maybe just using these. We'll see how it goes. 18.2.25: The plants are going crazy for water! Everything is getting used right up so fast! Today, I decided to add some more Black Strap Molasses to add some carbs and other micronutrients. I'll add the jar with the label in the photos section above. I watered a very small amount to each plant. What I put in: ♡ Black strap molasses 150g ♡ 2g Sea K(elp) Greenleaf nutrients. I dissolved everything in 4ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.4. 19.2.25: I received the majority of the garden purchases that I made. I'm still waiting for the Ecothrive Life Cycle. I wanted to top dress, but it's been delayed unfortunately. I am using my Greenleaf nutrients products which I bought on Amazon. I got the Mega Crop 2 part system Part A and Part B. I have the Sea K(elp), and the bud explosion PK booster. I really wanted to get some of their sweet candy asking read many positive reviews. Unfortunately, for me, this is unavailable to buy currently. So that's a little disappointing. I needed to do a good watering so when my nutes were delivered today, I got excited 🤗 I watered 2ltrs of dechlorinated water per plant, PH'd to 6.4, containing the following nutrients: ♡ 1g Mega Crop Part A ♡ 1g Mega Crop Part B ♡ .5g Sea K(elp). The plants drank this up within a few hours. I'm going to try and hold off on watering in hopes that my Ecothrive Life Cycle will arrive so I can top dress and water it in then. 20.2.25: My Ecothrive Life Cycle arrived yesterday, and the plants are ready for their top dress and a good watering in. I have some Biobizz Light Mix, Canna Coco,and perlite. I'm going to use this as a base to mix my amendments in. I'm going to fill my 5 gallon bucket with about 4.5 gallons of my top dress mix. I will distribute this across 6, 4-5 gallon pots. Then I will water in well with Greenleaf nutrients Mega Crop Parts A+B and Sea K(elp). I've made a crude attempt to video mixing my top dress. Don't listen to the audio. lol, my YouTube didn't stop playing whilst I recorded this 😂 So anyway, I added the following amendments to the above base mix of 4.5 gallons; ♡ 3 TBSP Ecothrive Life Cycle ♡ 3 TBSP Vitalink Bat Guano ♡ 3 TBSP Ecothrive Charge ♡ 1 TBSP RHS Mycorrhizal Fungi granules ♡ 6 TBSP Ground Cinnamon.

She’s getting frosty and dank 👃🍪🍊🍓🍰🍌🍒🍇🍭👃 Day 29 almost half way , happy with all the phenos so far all frosty so many terps .. started feed the canna nutrients plants canna pk1314 .. 2 flush’s Got the remo plants all most on the proper Ec again

Der Geruch ist göttlich..

​Journal de Culture : Frost 1 (Semaine 4) ​Génétique : Frostbanger (F2 graine Perso) | Système : Autopot 20L ​📣 Remerciements Un immense merci à toutes les personnes qui suivent ce journal depuis le début ! Un merci tout particulier à @Mia_BIOTABS et à @Mrs_Larimar pour leurs précieux conseils et leur accompagnement. Merci à tous pour votre soutien ! ​🛠️ Configuration Technique ​Éclairage : Lumatek ATS 300W Pro (réglé à 75%) ​Distance lampe/canopée : 75 cm ​Climat : Jour : 25°C / Nuit : 21°C ​Humidité (HR) : 50% ​Tente : 1m80 de hauteur ​📅 Évolution & Entretien : Structure et Patience ​État de la plante : La Frost 1 affiche une santé éclatante. Contrairement à mes premières impressions, elle reste bien ancrée dans sa phase végétative et n'est pas encore passée en floraison. Elle profite de ce temps pour renforcer son tronc et ses ramifications. ​Hauteur actuelle : 33 cm (après LST) ​Vigueur : On voit clairement sur les photos que le tronc principal est massif. Les tiges sont vigoureuses et le vert du feuillage est parfaitement homogène. ​Travail sur la plante : ​LST & Structure : Le travail aux ficelles continue de porter ses fruits. J'ai pu écarter les branches secondaires de manière très précise pour aplatir la canopée. ​Optimisation : L'effeuillage léger effectué précédemment a permis de bien dégager les sites de croissance inférieurs. La lumière pénètre désormais partout, et la circulation d'air au centre de la plante est optimale. ​Gestion du système & Nutrition : rien donné ​ ​Vanne Autopot : La vanne est toujours coupée. Je reste vigilant et j'attends que le pot soit bien sec et léger avant de relancer le système, afin de garantir une oxygénation maximale des racines. . ​Résumé de la situation : La plante est magnifique et occupe l'espace avec beaucoup de force. Pas de fleurs à l'horizon pour le moment, ce qui me laisse encore un peu de temps pour parfaire sa structure avant le futur stretch. On continue de surveiller le séchage du pot pour une reprise de l'autonomie au moment idéal. ​À bientôt pour la suite !

Hi GD Buddies. Another week down on this new strain for me to enjoy and wow am I enjoying watching theses gorgeous flowers flourish. They are creating very hairy and dense looking bud structures that have begun forming up into longer stem filling flowers that are also really kicking out a nice heavy scent of quailty Terps and aromas too. The glow space absolutely pongs of weed and my filters are throwing their hands up in the air in submission !!!. What a beautiful profile it is leaving behind too. One of the plants is beginning to show more colouring on the pistols now so I expect thosnwill begin a new flush of pure white ones to swrll the duds even more . The contrasts are so aesthetic looking over the buds and I can see why this strain was put forward by the guys at Exotic to try. A beautiful choice guys and i look forward to seeing this strain complete its processes and am excited to sample the finished result.

The plant is doing great! These days the temperatures are up to 33 and the plant is liking it a lot! I have posted a video to show the developement of buds, will keep on recording once a week Can't wait to see how big the nugs will be!

Added stakes for better light penetration. checked trichomes with jeweler's loop and are still clear. Plenty of time left to go. More details in video.