As always germinated in a glass of water with 1/5th peroxide added. Beans all opened up in about 30 hours. Plugs were hydrated a day beforehand so they were nice and moist but not drenched. I added a little myco's to maybe get a headstart on inoculation and explosive and healthy rootgrowth due to the fungus. Took about 48 hours to break topsoil and the Grape & cream beans seem very vigorous. 14-8-2023 Ive added a vid where you can see 3 grape and cream seedlings where 2 seem to be less happy than the third. Heatstressed mostly. This was due to my light hanging too low and the ppfd seemed a bit much for them so ive adjusted and they seem happier and are folding out flat again. 1 didnt seem phased so for now we'll keep an eye out for that one for cutting purposes but its very early hahah

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyos. I am hopeful she will recover and reconnect the xylem and phloem channels. Oopsy level stress event. A couple of days later, the stem was tied in place to hold it, and I spent some time gently caressing the stem, bending slowly over time as it becomes more pliable the more you bend it. A little delay, but the core framework is now in place. If your soil has high pH,it's not ideal, you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC, The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur, also important for plant growth and potentially serving as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can) soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore, can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates; while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During daytime, the light is sensed multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore at night IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light release from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis and water is found to be in its icosahedron molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

Day 75 on this blueberry and just like the Grape Wine I discontinued all nutrients except for the little bit of recharge she got yesterday from here on out water only.. this girl looks like she needs another week and a half to two weeks but she's starting to look beautiful and I'm starting to get excited about this one.. due to the ruderalis and low THC content I wasn't expecting trichomes all over sugar leaves and or any on any fan leaves and I didn't get any but the buds themselves are sparkling which is all that matters... Haven't done a trichome check yet I know she's got a little bit but I do want to thank Sensible Seeds for sending me these genetics and I highly recommend you guys check them out they have every strain on the planet and they have seeds in bulk.. hope all is well God bless and happy growing ✌️ https://www.sensibleseeds.com/

Dropped RQS Diesel Automatic this week, she has not sprouted out of the soil yet, but its only been 4 days. I expect her to pop in the next 24-48 hours. I'll add new pics once she sprouts. Planning a slightly different strategy with this girl. no HST, only LST, and FIM'ing instead of topping. Looking forward to watching what happens. She is front-center in the group pics. My Perpetual Harvest strategy…. Originally my plan was to start 2 seeds each month, but had some seeds from one breeder that did not germinate early in my rotation. Ultimately, this caused single seeds to pop and messed up my 2 at a time plans. But, that seemed to work out OK, because now I think starting one seed every 3 weeks is a better strategy. This should provide me with 4-5 plants at a time, instead of 6. By the way, I never had any germination problems with seeds from other breeders. (I don’t want to bad mouth any breeders, but the seeds that didn’t germinate came from a popular breeder/advertiser that is most commonly known by 4 letters). Plants get fed once weekly on weekends. Seedlings get water only. Plants in vegetation get water and Recharge. Flowering plants get water, Recharge and Big Bloom (Fox Farm). Feeding is done using 2 gallon watering can. Any additional waterings during the week are given on an as needed basis per plant. I lift the plants to help determine which plants are more dry (lighter) and provide water any plants via water bottles and watering spikes. I also rotate each plant 90 degrees every day in an effort to make sure the plants get equal lighting from all sides. I rotate the plant in place by turning the pot 90 degrees (I am not rearranging the layout of the plants in the tent on a daily basis). The soil is an ‘organic super soil’ I mixed myself using organic top soil, organic potting soil, organic compost, organic peat moss, organic perlite, organic vermiculite, lime, epsom salt, expanded clay pellets and Jobe’s organic fast start. I am also recycling my soil and water with Recharge when using recycled soil. For plant training I have tried a variety of things, but my plans here are to do LST bending only, no HST this time. Around 3 week I'll do a FIM cut/pinch once there are 4-5 nodes established. I will also be doing some defoliation around the 3rd week of flowering. I have been doing HST bending and having good results, but think the HST may be causing the plants to take longer to harvest. I hope LST only will help increase harvests while getting me to harvest sooner. Setup: 1- Grow Tent 24”x48”x72” 2- Viparspectra 300W LED’s (1-V300 & 1-R300) 1- Hanging 100w CFL (26w actual) 1- Carbon Filter w/ 190cfm Fan & 4” ducts 1- 6” clip-on fan 1- 700w electric heater - oil filled radiator (in front of air intake behind tent)

Привет друзья. Наше знакомства продолжается с новым сортом автоцветущих растений от Smail_Seeds сорт TROPICANNA POISONZKITTLEZ XL AUTO F1 reg. Сегодня растению 66 дней. Растение очень хорошо развивается, ни каких сбоев в генетике не наблюдается. Шишки наливаются😀 Так же стрессую, что бы получить пыльцу. Скоро будут феминизированные растения. Сорт выводим сами. Смотри мой профиль, у нас всегда есть что то интересное. Не забудь поставить лайк❤️, если понравилась как прошла неделя И читайте наш TELEGRAM: https://t.me/smail_seeds #Smail_Seeds 😀

3 week of flowering Auto super sour diesel

First day of week three so topped today and gave them a half dose of Hesi TNT . Looking good so far so I'm happy. Light running at lowest setting.

💩Holy Crap Growmies We Are Back💩 Well growmies we are at 28 days in and everything is going great 👌 👉 Shes a short chunky little plant 👈 We got some very pretty colors😍 👌 She's got some odd colors kinda like tiger leafing,😉 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

My plants voted, did yours??? Being lazy this week, no pics of TG2 TG1 looking great though🤤

Day 85 - the Ripening process is under way! a. fresh DWC with Ripening blend b. after 1 day it already is smelling sweeter in the box Day 86 - smelling wonderful a. the buds are all swelling b. i am surprised with how dense these buds feel Day 87 - stigmas are 80% orange a. had a look at trichomes, we are 100% milky white with no clears to be seen, some amber is coming in! b. she is drinking about 3L of ripening solution a day c. ive already prepared the flushing solution, 15 litres of de chlorinated water and 2ml/L FloraKleen. it will go in NEXT WEEK! Day 88 - wow! a. uploaded trichome microscope photo b. she has gone from drinking 5L a day to now about 2.5! c. uploaded a video d. removed a handful of leaves Day 89 - 12 hours light on/off now a. switched her over to flushing solution, FloraKleen 3ml/L... 15L is a clean DWC bucket. b. she had Ripen for 7 days and will flush for 2 or 3 days. c. the trichomes are perfect for what we are wanting!! Thanks @Bloombuster once again for helping us noobs out! d. we will harvest in a few days Day 90 - she is flushing well a. another day of FloraKleen flush b. she smells so good! Day 91 - time to end our journey! a. I will harvest the plant in a few days b. she is so thick and the buds are massive here c. I dried a few of the smaller buds, and holy shit the effects are unreal! this is next level, new generation cannabis

Ha llegado el momento de reducir al max la potencia de luz de nuestras luminarias... Tanto Led como Sodio. Regamos solo con agua y lo estrictamente necesario para que no se deshidraten nuestras plantas. Algunas variedades están listas, sobre todo las Fast Version, a otras les faltan algunos días. También dentro de las variedades tenemos especímenes más avanzados que otros, es por eso que la cosecha se hará de forma escalonada. Desconectamos el aire acondicionado y ponemos al max la extracción.

26.12.24: I have noticed light stress on my plants. I had moved the lights further away and increased the light intensity to 70%. Unfortunately that created some issues. Namely severe palour of the leaves. To try and rectify the situation, I've dimmed the lights to about 30%, staying at the same distance, about 30 inches away. I measured the par levels, after I did this. They should a reading of anywhere between 40 and 150, at the canopy of the plants. They are all different sizes. This seems to have improved the colouring on all plants. After this evenings watering, I will monitor recovery and increase lighting intensity again slowly. I am also using the light cycle of 21/3, so the plants have many hours more light to absorb, than for example 12/12 or 18/6. I am pleased with the progress, considering all of my mistakes! 29.12.24: So I finally gave LST a shot, it's probably a bit too late, however I really want to get the most of the triploid pheno, and I went a little crazy and LST'd all plants except 2, as they're too small. I did that late last night, this afternoon I was amazed to see the plants turn their leaves back to the light source. I'm glad I overcame my fear of trying it. I'm very excited to see them adapt and progress! 😁 there are videos above with before and after of my LST process. Thanks for checking out my diary 🍃 ✌️

I'm training her by applying LST and lollipoping and also I topped her 2 days 2 days ago,she looks very healthy and happy,let's see how this babe turns out. She's being fed with lactobacillus liquid,guanokalong extract which is full of humic and fulvic acids and half ml once a week of kalong grow vengan and organic bat guano liquid,she's in a super soil full of life with florians living organics which has beneficial fungus and bacteria and also humic and fulvic acids plus micro and macro nutrients and aminoacids,she looks super beautiful and responding well to topping and lst

First week of the boom season, a lot pistils are showing up, smells good and strongest. The next week I will add a little more nutrients of advanced nutrients. Big bud, bud candy, and the last week I will add a Overdrive.

First grow completed, turned out far better than I could ever have hoped, the plants totally bossed it for all the winging it and improvising I put them through, but we got there in the end haha, Looking forward to next grow, can't wait to enjoy using all good genetics, already have some Bruce banner #3 seeds ready to roll out :) Thanks for reading

Girls doing well but have run into some calcium deficiency which will hopefully be fixed soon.

Hey guys :-) They are developing very well :-) . Was watered twice this week with 1 l each (nutrients see table above) Maybe I'll train them this week. But I'll think about that spontaneously for reasons of space :-) . Otherwise everything is going according to plan and I wish you a lot of fun with the update and stay healthy 💚🙏🏻 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this strain at : Clearwater Seeds Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 - 6.5 MadeInGermany

Week 3 of flower has come & gone without too much stress. Gave the ladies a big last defoliation to help with light penetration and airflow at end of week as they were pretty leafy Runoff was a lot lower than feed so have upped the nutes for this week. Blumats got blocked and have been a pain so whilst I'm not too busy with work over holidays will just hand water them. Pretty much no smell at all coming off them yet which is quite strange as normally by now all my other grows have been starting to, I'm sure it will come. 1st video is before big defoliation 2nd video is after Photo is 24hrs after big defoliation