------------------------------------------------- Day 22 Water: N/A Humidifier: 45% (LOW-MIST) Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (26.4° celsius @ 48% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (22.8° celsius @ 56% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 23 Water: N/A Humidifier: 45% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (27.6° celsius @ 46% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (27.1° celsius @ 51% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 24 Water: N/A Humidifier: 45% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (26.2° celsius @ 51% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (22.7° celsius @ 40% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 25 (Feed day: 15 tbsp Worm castings + 5 tbsp 2-8-4 Gaia Green Power Bloom) Water: 0.5 Gallon RO water + 5ml Remo VeloKelp Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (27.1° celsius @ 48% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (23.0° celsius @ 50% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 26 **LST** Water: N/A Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (26.8° celsius @ 48% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (23.5° celsius @ 50% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 27 Water: N/A Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (27.7° celsius @ 48% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (23.4° celsius @ 50% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 28 Water: N/A Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (26.7° celsius @ 50% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (23.2° celsius @ 50% RH) -------------------------------------------------

😵😵😵

Another week down! 😁 Everything running smooth. 😃 Finally a grow without so many issues 😂 And cold weather so I can push the led to the MAX 😎

So at the start of the week I did what everyone says not to with autos; top/fim em!! As I said this is 💯 an experiment so, why not?? The last pic and vid are 3 days after topping

Nach langer Zeit ist es endlich soweit, ich habe sie geerntet. Bei dieser Pflanze habe ich mich dafür entschieden sie gegen den natürlichen Lebenszyklus outdoor eher zum Blühen zu bringen. Ich pflanzte sie in einen Hanffasersack den ich mit Erde auffüllte. Diesen platzierte ich auf einer Schubkarre. Wo ich wohne wird es manchmal schon im Oktober sehr kalt, sodass die Wahrscheinlichkeit für eine sichere Ernte realtiv gering ist (at this point i hope the best for my other outdoor plants). Ich rechnete mir aus wann der perfekte Zeitpunkt zur Ernte ist um noch im Sommer das Resultat genießen zu können. Ab diesem Zeitpunkt fuhr ich die Schubkarre jeden morgen um 8 Uhr nach draußen und um 18 Uhr wieder nach drinnen um optimale 12 Stunden Lichtzufuhr zu gewährleisten. Während den letzten Wochen der Blüte sind ein paar männliche Blüten aufgetaucht wie auch bei meinem indoor grow. Für einige war der Zeitpunkt der Ernte vielleicht zu früh, aber ich finde es so sehr angenehm zu rauchen und auch der Effekt ist in diesem Stadium optimal für mich. Die einzige Methode die ich hier verwendete ist das Pruning. Es erspart dir einen Menge Zeit beim beschneiden der Blüten und lenkt die Kraft auf die verbleibenden Blüten, um diese zu stärken. Nachdem ich bei meinem letzten outdoor grow viel zeit beim trimming verbracht habe, habe ich mir eine Erntemaschine gekauft (look at the video). Mit dem Ergebnis der Maschine bin ich zufrieden, da ich es per Hand in der gleichen Zeit unmöglich in der Qualität geschafft hätte. Die Blüten wurden ungefähr 2 Wochen bei guter Durchlüftung getrocknet, um am Ende wurden es 255g. Für mich persöhnlich ist es ein sehr gutes Ergebnis. Die Blüten sind schön fest und klebrig mit einem sehr süßlichen Geruch. Ich habe versucht ein paar schöne Fotos zu machen und habe meine Kreativität spielen lassen (my wife also got a great idea, you can guess which idea was mine ;D) If you have any questions feel free to ask. Im also open for criticism I hope you enjoy the pictures and the report stay safe and happy growing. ____ i will update the smoke report soon.

6/7 flipped to flower leafs lil droopy due to over watering a lil bit but it’ll bounce back and everything else looking good tho I think the flowering stretch is going be wild haven’t grown one this tall before going have to move the light up some more soon

Day 80. Final day of flush. Harvesting tomorrow.

Привет друзья! Пол пути уже пройдено, полёт отличный😃 На 3 фото, левый куст TROPICANNA POISONZKITTLEZ XL AUTO Всем добра и мира

This was a pretty explosive week for growth! These girls really took off this week! I have been topping off the res with just plain RO water this week after the change and for this run I have kept the strength of the nutrients pretty low and have been hanging around 0.6 EC, I don't see much of a need to increase at all. I am going to continue to keep a lower EC and just watch the plants. I think last run I may have fed a little hot a time or two so gonna go low and slow this run and it has been working out so far. I will be putting my trellis net up either today or tomorrow because I think I am really going to need it this run. I noticed yesterday that it looks like these girls are showing signs of entering the flowering phase so I need to get set up and be prepared for the stretch! I'm getting a little nervous about the height of the plants as well because they are growing fairly tall pretty quick, but hopefully the net will help a bit. No issues to report really and they look healthy as can be! Thanks for stopping by and checking out my grow! As always any tips, comments, recommendations are always valued and appreciated! Thanks everyone you guys rock!

Flushing begins for the Og kush and blueberry. All three plants are incredibly sticky, stanky, dense and heavy! The OG Kush plants are blowing my mind, I'm amazed at how much they have fattened up the last week. The super lemon haze starts week 7 and is also sticky and stanky, she's also starting to pack on weight and density.

D71/F24 - 11.29 - There's not much to say about these two. They didn't even hiccup after the defoliation, though it does appear their stretch has just about finished. They both have fat greasy prebuds right now, and the Passion Berry has particularly long pistils. A pleasure to watch em grow! <3 D76/F29 - 12.4 - Just like holy fuck these things are monsters. 🙏🙌 Praise be to Swerve 👑, I'm astonished at the pace and vigor of these two plants

It's Day 25 Week 04 Of Flower For My 02 Kombucha Cream By atlasseed . And For My Snow White and SpliffStrawberry By Spliff Seeds Amsterdam . So Yesterday was Feeding Day All 04 Plants Received 4ml of Quad.AG Products Humonic, 4ml Of Emerald Harvest Nutrients CalMag and 8ml Of Hygrozym By Hygrozyme 4 Growers . I ph this mix at 6.1 Ppm on this mix is at 291. Now on Runoff my Kombucha Cream 3-Part had a Ph of 6.4 and Ppm is at 1490. My Snow White on Runoff as a Ph of 6.3 and Ppm is at 822. My Kombucha Cream 2-Part on Runoff as a Ph of 6.3 and Ppm is at 933. My SpliffStrawberry on Runoff as a Ph of 6.1 and Ppm is at 698. My Kombucha Cream 3-Part Is starting to spike up so I will Keep a closer eye on her. Now let's talk a little about Water Temperature before you feed your plants. On this run I been watering my plant with water temperature at 24 Celsius to 25 Celsius and I am seeing a big defrence on my plants. Also when I feed with Emerald Harvest the ph will spike up a little. And when I feed with the Humonic my ph will balance. Quad.ag Humonic is a fantastic ph balancer and a Great Root Builders in the early veg stage. I can go on and on with Humonic but all keep that for another post 😜. All 04 Lady's are Stacking Up like Champs and getting really Frosty. HAPPY GROWING GROWMIES 🤘🏻

(12/09-12/15, days 42 to 48) Hope everyone enjoys the pictures. I will try to add a video and black back or cover pics by end of week every week. Week 5 Notes & Observations: Topped both plants and starved for 11 days. The idea being that I want the roots to search out new space and expose more root growth to the nutes in the soil to better help in the growth after the training rather than just the recovery. I made a decision on P2 and decided to keep both sides for a total of 8 colas on each plant since but topping day P2 was looking way better and showing nice re-growth. I recognize that growth will be stunted on the damaged side, but I want to see by how much in case I do it again in the future. Neither plant broke on this last training and bot seem in good health. I am however monitoring a possible calcium deficit and treating with CaliMagic. - inspected defoliated fan leaves and discovered Spider Mites - treated with Captain Jack's Deadbug concentrate mixed into 1 cup of purified water - sprayed tops and bottoms of leaves on all plants inside that tent. Will have to retreat again in 3 days, and possibly again after that. ***from label*** LAWNS AND ORNAMENTALS: Use Site Pests Controlled Comments outdoor ornamentals (herbaceous and woody plants) emerald ash borer gall midges leaf feeding beetles leafminers sawfly larvae spider mites1 thrips worms, including loopers, webworms, bagworms, gypsy moth, and tent caterpillars Uniformly spray foliage to point of runoff. Uniform coverage of upper and lower leaf surfaces is essential for effective insect control. Apply when spider mites are first observed prior to webbing and before mite populations have become severe. Reapply after 7 to 10 days (3 to 5 days in greenhouses and structures that can be altered to be closed or open) to contact newly hatched nymphs and repeat until infestation is managed. Uniform coverage of both upper and lower leaf surfaces is critical. VPD and PPFD: This week I will hold the humidity in the tent to about 70-75% and temps will be monitored for 70- 75F daytime and 66-71F overnight. Im adjusting my lights and look to control them at ~400ppfd max. Meaning slight increase over last week but mostly just growth increase. Feed & Monitor: ***All feeds with nutes use either a whole ratio or combination of "Veg Mix" and "Bloom Mix"concentrates DILUTED in water until a total ppm of add-in is reached using a (Total Dissolved Solids) TDS Meter measured in PPM (parts per million). The "Veg Mix" concentrate will eventually be added in smaller ratios and "Bloom Mix" concentrate will eventually replace the "Veg Mix" concentrate entirely. The ppm and ratios of each feed will be listed when I feed. Veg mix recipe is on week 2. Bloom Mix recipe is on week 5.*** Day 44 (last feed was day 34) Tested and Calibrated my ph pens. Starting weight from each pot was 18 lbs and 8 oz, both P1 and P2 weighed 11lbs 2oz before feed. Each plant got 1.5 gallon of purified water with 362ppm Veg Mix concentrate (recipe on week 2) and 106ppm Bloom Mix concentrate (recipe on week 5). The ph on this feed was balanced to 6.1ph to combat the original higher runoff ph from the previous runoff feed tests. After feed, both P1 and P2 weighed 19lbs 2oz after feed this time (P1 was 22lbs 3oz and P2 weighed 21lbs 14oz after last feed). I got about 8cups of runoff on both P1 and P2 this time (both plants gave up 5 cups of runoff last feed). Runoff for P1 ph was 6.3 with 906ppm (6.45 with 1170ppm last feed) and P2 was 6.4 with 814ppm 6.45 with 1230ppm last feed). Top soil tested at: P1 6.23,6.21,6.26,6.27 for an avg of 6.24 (6.327 avg after last feed) and P2 tested at 6.4,6.39,6.25,6.46 avg 6.37 (6.402avg after last feed) - next feed will be 6.3ph as Im liking where the ph is now and I dont see any issues from feed or training.

The germination i forgot to take pictures so i just have a video of the first 3 strains i started before the other seeds arrived. I used the same metod for all of them 24h in the glass of water after that 48h in the cotton pads in the zip lock bag with 3 sprays of water on the cotton pads and 1 spray when inside the zip lock bag is closed untill 80% leaving a small gap for them to breath. I decided to plant them after that in the final resting pot for this strain in a 5 gallon fabric pot. I used the following media on the bottom of the fabric pot i used 10% of Goldlabel HydroCorn after filled up with Ecothirve coco (70% coco 30% perelite) and i made a hole for my potting soil where i used Advanced Nutrients coco cultivator (50% coco 30% perelite 20% pebbles) and i mixed on the media some Azos , Mykos and Great white. The light Schedule for the first 5 days was 24/0 After that is on a 18/06 light Schedule. Just water the plants on the 15/06 i think all my seedlings are stuned because my light is too strong for them and the light is dimed to 25%. And my light meter for lux is saying i have 8600Lux converted is 148 and my DLI on the meter from the phone is saying 150 so its 3x times more the recomended i just dont understand if this phone app is working correctly. So i have decided to put one more seed directly on the soil beacuse they look the most stunned of them all on the 14/06 still didn t germinate i will keep the one is gonna grow stronger thats why there is the dome. Update on the order from spider farmer from Ebay (Order the item on a thursday and the order was not updated on ebay on the following Monday so decided to contact them to understand when i am gonna receive my order i was told true ebay that my item as been shipped and i will receive an update within 1 hour to tell what time the item will be delivered. So never received any message giving me time slot delivery. Never received the item and at 21pm the tracking updeted on Ebay saying delivered so i contected them next day to be told that the courrier actually lost my order and that they will reshippe the order again but was told i need to wait 2 buiness days for the warehouse to processe my order beacuse they are busy what i replied that why should be me the costumer that needs to wait 5 or 6 more days for the order to arrive to me that they should send me the item on the same day and send me with one day delivery. The ansewer was they could not do it so i cancell the order asked for a refund and never more use their products appailing costumer service)

*Pre-flowers have micro trichomes upon formation, LOL. Based on my early observation, I predict that these will be frosty frosty on the trichomes. Added 20lbs of black lava rock as mulch, raising soil temp around 1 and a half degrees to 72.8F. Some nice little bud formations are creeping up already. Nice little foliar spray of some aminos to the underside of the leaf. Hard to guage or know how much the aminos help, but after reading how energy intensive it is for the plant to make them from scratch its something I feel I need to do as a habit. An EC (Electrical Conductivity) meter, one that's made for the soil, it's so useful, as it indirectly indicates soil moisture as well as salt mineral nutrient levels. Just pop your metre stick in the soil and if ec is low, then it's time to water. Once there is water to assist in the conduction of electricity, the EC" will kick back up. 0.3-1.8, if it stays low, then you know it's time to add more mineral salt ferts! While Electrical Conductivity primarily indicates the overall salt content in soil, pH provides information about the relative proportion of cations (positively charged ions) in the soil's salt capacity. High EC signifies a higher salt concentration, while pH reflects the balance of cations like calcium, magnesium, potassium, ammoniacal nitrogen, sodium, and hydrogen. Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata Sugars, classified as carbohydrates, are composed of the elements carbon (C), hydrogen (H), and oxygen (O). They are characterized by the general formula (CH2O)n, where 'n' represents the number of carbon atoms. The most basic units of sugars, called monosaccharides, have this ratio of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen. For example, glucose and fructose, both monosaccharides, have the formula C6H12O6. The reality of your typical plant. After harvest, with all water remove,d you are left with. (Ballpark) Mother-nutrients: Carbon 47%, Oxygen 43%, Hydrogen 4%. Macro-nutrients: Nitrogen 3%, Phosphorus1%, Potassium1%, Calcium1%, Magnesium0.5%, Sulfur0.5%. Micro-nutrients: All the rest combined 1% Nothing good can happen in a soil that can't breathe. The aerobic zone in soil is crucial. Microorganisms can break down sugars into their constituent atoms, though they don't typically do so completely to the individual elemental level (carbon, hydrogen, oxygen) in one step. Microorganisms utilize sugars through metabolic pathways like glycolysis and fermentation, converting them into simpler molecules like pyruvate and then potentially to other compounds like lactic acid, ethanol, or carbon dioxide, releasing energy in the process. Glycolysis: This is a central pathway where a glucose molecule (a common sugar) is broken down into two molecules of pyruvate. This process generates some ATP (energy) for the cell. Fermentation: If oxygen is limited, some microorganisms can ferment pyruvate, producing various end products like lactic acid (in lactic acid fermentation), ethanol and carbon dioxide (in alcoholic fermentation), or other organic acids. Further Breakdown: The products of glycolysis and fermentation can be further broken down through other metabolic pathways, potentially leading to the release of carbon dioxide and water, and the extraction of more energy. Not Always to Atoms: While some microorganisms can completely oxidize sugars to carbon dioxide and water, releasing all their energy, others may stop at intermediate stages, producing various organic compounds. Role of Enzymes: Microorganisms use specific enzymes to catalyze each step in these breakdown pathways. In summary, while microorganisms don't typically reduce sugars to individual atoms in one go, they break them down into simpler molecules, releasing energy and potentially forming new compounds as part of their metabolism. In conditions of high CO2 concentration, the pH of a solution or system will decrease, becoming more acidic. Conversely, low CO2 concentrations lead to an increase in pH, making the solution more alkaline or basic. This relationship is due to the chemical reactions involving CO2 and water, which produce carbonic acid and influence the concentration of hydrogen ions, ultimately determining the pH

Herbies Godzilla Cookies popped it's head first with Fastbuds Wedding Glue right behind. Went ahead and put them in their new home to get further acquainted. Using Spring water PH 7.0, 31 ppm. Mixed 50/50 with tap, final ppm of 80 (for now). Then bubbled for atleast 24hrs. Longer the better so all chemistry shit that happens with the co² and carbonic acid can happen and give me more stable water. Less drastic ph swings that way. Res solution: Water 80ppm CalMag plus 4ml/2gal ^2 195-200ppm 4ml/2gal Hydroguard 1.3mL/2gal Flora Micro 1.3mL/2gal Flora Grow 1.3mL/2gal Flora Bloom Needed .75ml ph down to hit 5.81 Final ppm 295 RES stays at 68 with Ice Probe and controller. Has potential to go MUCH lower if wanted. Check ph 8am & 8pm, adjust if needed. *MORE exciting content... Late RES check this AM. I didn't bubble this spring water, just the tap. Bubbling the mixture for 24hrs plus for now on. Adding oxy is aiding in bringing PH up in the RES, along with low nute concententration. Up to 6.42 from 5.81, added .4mL down to bring it back to 5.76 after topping off RES. TDS up to 346 from ph adjustments. *swapped out the POS taotronic humidifier for a reptile fogger hooked up to a pymeter t/h controller. DEFINITELY recommend you check em out. Less then 30 bucks. RES change.. switch from nutecalc to GHE "light" feed. After crunching numbers, decided on mixing 1/2 strength week 2 feed to prep these girls for a higher dose. 2gal water-220ppm 3.6mL Micro-364ppm 3.4mL Grow-441ppm 2.6mL Bloom-482ppm. PH'd to 5.75. *pics are right at lights on, and it looks like they're still sleeping. Adjusted fans a bit since WG showing signs of stress on her leaf edges and curling a bit. Could have been from the other day when I raised the light and cranked it up to warm things up a bit.

Hadn’t really planned on starting veg in the middle of the night but I’m an insomniac and I think they were ready. Transplanted into clay pellets pre washed and pre soaked in ph 5.8 RO water. Going to flood for 15 minutes every 6 hours. Wanted to start off very light and technaflora recipe for success didn’t exactly say what to do for early veg, so decided to go 1/4 strength to start and work up from there. Starting at roughly 50% on the dimmer and will gradually ramp up. Added a humidifier since I’m in a very dry climate. First grow, hoping I’m not overthinking this. Wish me luck. Update 3/27 Realized I didn’t have enough water in my reservoir and plants were looking pretty stretchy. Added 5 gallons of ph5.8 1/4 strength solution. Shooting for 400 ppm for week 1 of actual veg. Plants are officially a week old from dropping in soil plugs. I think I’m going to count this as start of veg since I kinda screwed up with water level. Thankfully clay was soaked when I transplanted. Update 3/30 Plants stretched a little bit yesterday and started to topple over. Spent the better part of yesterday trying to keep them upright. In retrospect I originally transplanted these way too tall. Carefully dug away pellets and replanted deeper so leaves are just above ground level. All plant root systems look healthy. Bottom left plant is looking sadder than the rest with some droopy leaves. It was the stretchiest of the bunch. Update 3/31 PH had crept up to 6.4. Added 5 gal of ro water to top off. Brought ppm up to 400 and ph down to 5.8. Plants bounced back very nicely from deeper transplant. Running humidifier on lowest setting while lights are on to keep it around 70% rh Update 4/1 Upped nutes from 400 to 650ppm. Trying to ramp up to full strength by second week of veg. PH had crept up to like 6.5, brought it down to 5.8. Humidifier is only on during the day. At night it causes humidity to skyrocket and droplets to form on leaves even on lowest setting. May need to get it on a timer or just get a better humidifier. This 2.2L sucks

Check out these lovely Lemmosa ladies! 😍 The buds are covered in trichomes, spreading out onto the leaves. I'm growing three, and each one of them has a slightly different smell. They now have a strong odor. They smell like skunky lemon gas. One of them has a fresher lemony gas smell. The buds form tight and dense, and spaced out from each other. The hairs (pistols) have started to change color on the tips of the plant. This is the 5th week into flowering, so it seems early for the colors to change. But, this is the best grow for me, so far. With this being my fourth run. They only needed a few leaves trimmed. I fed them FLOWER as a nutrient tea. The lights are now on 10, the highest setting.