Stretching has ended finally and budding and stacking has started, yay

Bud sites are all starting to connect colors are starting to fatten about 10% of stigma’s have changed color and the inner buds are throwing out a purple hue

Here we go! New setting for this CBD Crack. Just under the big 384W led panel. I hope she doesn’t stretch much, or she will be light burnt for sure. It makes me smile because it’s an autoflowering strain that wants photoperiod-style nutrients. This week I started giving her bloom nutrients. I forgot the Bud Candy, but I’ll add it on the next watering (I think in just a few days). Much hype for this CBD Crack. Canadian ruderalis definitely makes the difference. Great job FastBuds!

Hey growers I hope your all well ✌️ SHOULD I FLIP??? These girls are nearly 50cm and the one girl is around 35cm, I'm going too continue veg for 1-2 weeks longer and scrog in the meantime too gold back the 2 taller girl. These girls are plodding into week 7 now so they are ready too flip but will see how my grow question goes before switching too 12/12 👌 They are happy and healthy and doing well under the shogun nutrients! I have defoliate the odd top fan leaf too allow better air circulation. We have very high heat atm but hopefully they uptake more 😉😅 Happy growing 🌱💚

Ahmad Terraman Dey 101

Nothing much tae say really a hope the triple g makes it to the end of ita cycle and the unexpected church seems tae be a bonus beautiful looking healthy plant with a strong orange zest coming off it will also have the pleasure of an early smoke win win

12/29/21 - Welcome to Week 6! We are almost there. The plants are really showing off colors of yellow, orange and purple. The buds are getting larger and more dense. We fed the plants with the nutrients listed above. 12/30/21 - We are on track for a good harvest. Today is Day 44. We think it’ll be within the 55-60 day mark for harvest. We are just about ready to flush and use regular water for awhile. The buds are huge and very dense. Check out todays video! 12/31/21 - Wow… So frosty and dense! We are excited for harvest. So far so good! We have lots of purple buds. Happy New Years Eve. 1/1/22 - Happy New Year! They are looking really good this year ;) We are done with nutrients and we are going to water with phed water only. We might run Sledgehammer once or twice to get more of a flush. 1/2/22 - Day 47! The plants are on track. We are getting some massive tops with big chunks of purple on the buds. Such beautiful plants! 1/3/22 - We are loving the colors! We have a few weeks left. Harvest time is coming quick and we are getting everything ready for it. We are going to use an iPower bowl trimmer and toss all the popcorn in the bowl to be used for scented topicals. 1/4/22 - Looking really good today. We are just watering with plain water and the buds are like rocks. We have a ton of work ahead of us lol. It’ll be worth it!

Last week of veg, i think these girls will start to flower the next couple of days! At the moment great results under this TS1000 as always! We gave a very light nutrients this week just to jave some nitrogen as im using a light mix as soil, lets see how it goes the next weeks 😁💪

Semanas andamento satisfatório uma esta com 4 semanas e as outras 2 com 2 e meia!nao vejo a hora de poder apreciar a engorda dessas plantas!

Growing very bushy

This plant sheesh I like the bud structure her bud to leaf ratio I'm happy with she has alot of trichs got that funky sweat smell almost like somthn is going bad in the fridge lol go check me out on cannabrothers podcast I'm the cohost and I am always looking for homegrowers to interview so message me or go follow me on ig @

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Switched to Advanced nutrients - sensi grow formula

wonderful Journey with this Strain. All Seeds germinated. All Plants growing vigor and very smooth. Only topped them twice. Plants get big and showed great Structure. The Budsites were big and buds itself knotlike and dense. Smelly and sticky.very courious how they taste Welldone hybrid Strain

So my microscopic camera came on the weekend after checking the trichomes to my surprise i was advised to harvest asap due to have some amber already. they were receiving full nutes up until 4 days ago. since then I've been flushing. i was still receiving high runoff ec readings after 2 days of flush so have since put around 30 litres of water through each plant all now have ec of around 0.3/0.4. thinking of doing the same tomorrow to wash last of the nutes out then will put them into 48hrs of darkness before chopping unless anyone can advise me different?

V23, riego pH 6.2 y EC 1.5, se realizó una pequeña defoliación y Lollipop, las plantas están mejor que nunca, creciendo al ritmo esperado y hojas apuntando hacia la luz, cómo "rezando al cielo" mostrando fotosíntesis al máximo, plantas felices. V24, se realizó LST a las ramas con buen crecimiento. He notado que son más difíciles de entrenar, son algo más duros los tallos, por lo que les hice un pequeño masaje antes de doblarlas para evitar que se rompan.

Our Tangerine Dream by Zamnesia is a strong piece because? I come from an area where mandarins reign supreme, when I was a kid the peels ended up covering the numbers of the first rudimentary bingo games. We all have a clear smell of mandarin in our nose and olfactory memory and we distinguish it from other citrus fruits, at least lemon. I had a Jet Fuel that was strong with mandarin and my friends all went crazy for example, "you can feel the peel" they tell me. It's like this guys when a strain is good ok it has to be strong, but the terpene profile reigns supreme. It has to smell, remind you of something, have an olfactory configuration is essential in today's cannabis and those citrus ones are the most recognizable but the nuances between the citrus ones are pure love. Remember that we are growing a plant worked with the indicated techniques and another left to grow without pruning to preserve its speed; in the previous/next diary you will find the other plant of the same variety. In this diary we find it left to grow straight, we did a bit of LST on the lower branches but slowly we eliminated them. This week we are emphasizing the fact that when you grow the plant like this, but it is valid in general, you should send into bloom only the part of the plant that actually sees a sufficient amount of light that you must learn to evaluate. Everything that is below should be cleaned simply because it will weaken the production above. Better not to waste energy on the plant to produce weak branches and wake flowers Comparison is the salt of experience, so the plant in the other diary will be treated very differently, go and see it to compare. We have started the Plagron fertilization program, we are in 100% organic configuration, the soil is recycled Promix + 1/3 fresh soil + 10% Perlite + RQS Mycorrhizae Mix (4 g in the mix, 1 g under the small fiber pot). We start bloom time now fertilize with: 1 ml/l Power Roots - 1 ml/l Pure Zym - 1 ml/l Sugar Royal - 1 ml/l Power Buds - 4 ml/l Alga Bloom We sprayed 3 ml/l Vita Race foliar fertilizer once a week. https://plagron.com/it We always have the excellent mycorrhizae from RQS flowing in the soil. https://www.zamnesia.io/it/5778-mix-micorrize-easy-roots.html Taste this strain a little bit, it's a cross of legendary strains ---- // https://www.zamnesia.io/en/10966-zamnesia-seeds-tangerine-dream.html Short Description Zamnesia // When legendary genetics are crossed, something exceptional can only be born. Tangerine Dream is the result of crossing classic strains. With citrus and sweet aromas and flavors, vigorous growth and euphoric and stimulating effects, Tangerine Dream by Zamnesia Seeds has it all. But don't take our word for it: order your seeds now and discover it for yourself. You can find the whole world of growing at Zamnesia and much more take a tour of the site and you will find "all the best that nature has to offer" in various shapes and colors. The whole world of growing and more is at Zamnesia: just take a look at the site and you will find "all the best that nature has to offer" in various shapes and colors. The new strains are fantastic and the old ones are no exception... -- // www.zamnesia.com

The ladies have finally made their journey into the final stages of flower and now it's flush time for her. She is covered in blanket of trichromes and smells wonderful like a kid in a candy store. The aurora is very strong and sweet with a hint of skunk. Color is vibrant purple, red, green with nice orange hairs. Can't wait to see how she tastes. Thanks @sweetseeds for the great beans.

Day 47 - I topped, defoliated and flushed with plain ph’d water 10 days before switch to 12/12 These led lights keep the plants really short with a lot of middle bushy growth have already taken 2 bags full of leaves and all look healthy still🤞👍 Day 48 - Looking good day after topping and defoliation :) good sign will update end of week 8 flip to 12/12