Today marks the 7th week of flowering for my cannabis plant, and it's truly fascinating to observe the changes that are taking place. The stretching phase has officially come to an end, and now the plant is fully focused on developing its buds. I can see that the buds are starting to swell and gain size, which is a promising sign of a healthy flowering process. I've adjusted the feeding schedule with BioBizz products to match the plant's current needs. Overall, the plant looks healthy and vigorous. The pistils are turning a beautiful shade, and the resin production is beginning to increase. I’m excited to see how the buds will continue to develop over the next few weeks. I’ll keep monitoring closely and make sure everything stays on track. Be excited for the coming weeks 💚🌱🌱

- Hydroponic setup using Active Aqua 5 gal bucket with 2 added air pumps for root health - On 4/30, seedling is transferred to bucket of hydroton - Filled bucket with 4-4.5 gallons of tap water with a pH of 5.8 only receiving hydroguard

Feb 28 (day 71): Start of week 10. Mar 2 (day 73): Started Flush. Mar 6 (day 77): End of week 10.

14.07.2024 a cloudy , rainy week, we see the sun for the first time yesterday between 2 storm. the camper berry really lack of light, and maybe i go little hard on nuts

Day 17 (starting Aug. 2nd afternoon): Will water them with a lightly enhanced RO water that was imprinted with frequencies via a PEMF coli for about one day when their day starts. After being away over the extended weekend, on day 20 ladies have grown very nicely. I topped nr# 1 and #2 after I took the photos and will give them a bit of water with Root Complex to compensate for the shock later. Sadly my brilliant control equipment has crashed completely and will not even take a photo currently. Yikes. Hope I can get it back alive this week again. Also turned the left light up by another 20%, now running at 40 W, and lifted it a bit. Eye inspection told me lights were lower here and ladies can get a bit more. At the end of their day 20, they seem to have survived the topping well. I managed to cut right above the new nodes which are already growing. Ladies are at 20 cm height before going to sleep. Day 21 shows great growth again, with lady #1 being at 22 cm now and lady #2, while being a bit less tall, extremely good side branch development. I hope that the rearranged lighting on the left side of the tent will make #1 grow a bit bushier too. Besides from that, I am really happy I tested Hesi HPE. I had such enormous success with room plants that made me want to see how Cannabis plants react to it. It will not add much to salinity, so I dared to add it quite early. While the photos are processed to compensate the lighting, I did not add much to saturation, so leaves are indeed of a very vivid, luscious green and ladies looking extremely healthy. Speed of growth has increased too as the added video shows. It also tells me lighting is enough – they are turning their leaves away right at the end of their day. I am really uncertain if I will change to usual Hesi grow fertiliser at all … Did a bit of LST to the lowest branches of lady #2 which spread almost to the border of her pot. Both temporary girls will leave the tent soon, so that the competitors will have maximum space to develop. Day 22, end of week 3: Outside girl went to get fresh air from now on. Wishing her luck, good weather and not a single male in the vicinity. I rearranged the lights and positioned them a bit higher. First preflower signs appeared on the ladies, so I will change the lighting phase when I return next week. Currently, I have them at 18/6, 45 cm above heads, with 80% running to a total of 80 W. I wasn’t so lucky topping #2. She has only one "top side" branch now … But grows extremely well, so ok!

Buds should be dried in the dark, 50% humidity, at 21 degrees

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Feb 27 I changed the light cycle to 18/6 a few days ago and surprisingly have seen the plants perking during sleep. Orange Sherbet is growing really quickly, I'm going to start Low Stress Training here soon to get these other stems some light.

Too battle rain and humidity i decided to unleash her bamboo support for a while.... She dries alot quicker but its also kinda very scary to see her move that much!🧐😬 Yet she handles it for now and is really fatting up. In a few days have nice sun and tomorow ill support her again with sticks! This will be my latest outdoor harvest ever ever cant wait!!

She is growing again and larger, full adult size leaves are now growing back. Going to leave her to the veg room by herself in the coming week. When we will FIM her and do some more LST, depending on how well she grows this week.

Starting week 10 things are looking great! I have nothing else to ask from this plant! it smells so good!! and super sticky when I took her out of the tent to take this photos one bud was touching my arm while I was carrying it and all my arm hairs sticked together and my arm smelled great for the rest of the day haha Started flushing by the end of this week

Pesei a mão na cobertura orgânica, joguei muito perto dos caules, e ainda inoculei com chorume, queimaram as folhas novas

she grows nothing interesting to say here go away read somewhere else.... another week in the life of this beauty she grows healty and fast looks good.

Day 38- 18/01/22 and we are now in flowering everything is looking good I’m still cutting down the plants from my last grow Afghan kush and once I’m done with that I’ll be moving everything that isn’t chemdawg into the HPS tent!!! Day 41-21/01/22 finally got the 3 of them in the hps tent!!!!

Day 62-30/01/23 #1 harvested!!! Day 64-01/02/23 #2 harvested!!! Day 68-05/02/23 #3 harvested

Der geruch ist sehr stark geworden, ansosnsten lief alles nach plan und nun minimiere ich die düngerzugabe jedesmal

Upward growth gonna take off soon So far so good, on the road to paradise

Girls are doing great