Today they are starting to wash 💧 fantastic smell... the flowers are as hard as stone...and I expect a big yield, they did not miss 😊 They are beautiful😊

Going strong have a sativa and indica pheno of the gg4 and gelato, both green crack plants seem the same makes sense it’s a more stable sativa dominant plant overall very happy with the grow thus far 🤙🏼💯

Better week this week Gave another topping and a very little defoliation Still have thrip but hopefully by me killing what i see daily and some help from Dorothy we can do this 👊 Check out the vid Dorothy walks straight over a thrip 🤦‍♂️🏼 Maybe shes full 🤷‍♂️🏼 HAPPY GROWING AND GOODLUCK 🌱😎👊👍✌️

Day 65, 17th of November 2020: Here we go with this beauty Tropicanna Poison.... All good streching has stopped making buds. I am waiting for the red colour tho ;) Some lollipopping (defoliation) has been done and also removed all the old LST's as the plant remains in shape from now. Fertilization is still the same like before happens every 2nd day with the ratio and mix above. The lamp is on 11.30 min and off 12.30 min. Last week was 15 min longer light cycle.... So every week 15 min shorter light cycle until the 5th week. So far -30 min. It switches on at 6 am and off at 17.30 pm.

Boas growmies! O gráfico dos nutrientes corresponde à alimentação da royal gorilla #1 (a mais desenvolvida) foram misturados em 2L de água, foi a primeira vez que usei o bio bloom nela! (21/07/2021). Alimentacao das Royal Cheeses (21/07/2021) - usei 3L para as duas: BioGrow - 1,8 ml ; BioHeaven - 2 ml; Activera - 1ml; CalMag - 0,3 ml; E.C = 0,37 /pH = 6,3 - Na próxima semana irei adicionar o BioBloom Alimentação da Royal Gorilla #2 (21/07/2021) - 1,5L BioGrow - 1 ml; BioHeaven - 1ml; Activera - 1ml; CalMag - 0,5 ml; E.C = 0,41 / pH 6,3 Embora o seu desenvolvimento esteja um pouco estranho, ja apareceram os primeiros pistilios. Os ramos da planta parecem fracos quando tentei fazer LST apenas com as maos, por isso nao irei realizar qualquer treino nesta, vou deixar crescer naturalmente para ver no que dá. Boa semana a todos e espero que gostem do diario.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Welcome to my Pablø Ęscøbar diary. In this diary: Seeds: sponsored by Ðivine Șeeds Media: Promix HP Nutrients: Advanced Nutrients, Diablo Nutrients, Gaia Green Power Bloom. Light and Weather: Şun☀️and Mother Earth.🌎 ___________________________ Feeding: Tue 17Sep: 8L water not pH'd Thu 19Sep: 4L Flawless Finish not pH'd Fri 20Sep: 4L Flawless Finish not pH'd Sat 21Sep:4L water not pH'd ___________________________ *please note that watering are from the top.....since i smashed the saucers with the weed wacker*🤦🏻‍♂️ ______________________________ Amazing weather throughout the week! Again☀️Sunny 26°C 😎"Except for today Monday 23-Sep-24 as per cloudy☁️photoshoot🙃😄 ______________________________ Did my flushing thing, it's happening😉 ______________________________ Thanks for stopping by, likes and comments are appreciated!👊🏻😎 Keep on growin! Keep on tokin!!! 😙💨💨💨💨💨

Our Watermelon Candy Automatic #1 from Zamnesia Seeds is ready, and we're excited to show it to you. This plant has always performed well, a true powerhouse of nature as it grows, especially as it swells with high-quality central and lateral flowers. Ripeness - The resin content is excellent. The trichomes are mostly white and milky (about 60%), with some clear (20%), and some amber (20%). Some beautiful red-headed trichomes are quite common. The pistils are almost all red (about 80%). Remember, the plant should be harvested according to your taste. Since this is a 50/50 plant, I want to maintain the sativa/day-use characteristics and not turn it into an indica bomb by over-ripening the amber colors. (Amber is a sign of THC oxidation.) The overall shape of the plant is truly splendid. Techniques chosen: As mentioned, we only performed pruning, lollipopping, and defoliation here. Basically, we simply cleaned the bottom parts, which, as mentioned, helps us achieve better results at the top. We're 100% organic and 1000% Plagron, as always. The soil we chose is the recently launched Plagron Bio LightMix, which will allow us to start with smoother and more reliable watering, without the sudden changes that liquid fertilizers can cause. A week's worth of soil is enough, so don't overdo it. Choose your preferred style and calculate your results on the website: www.plagron.com Visit the new Growshop area on the Zamnesia website: Z - https://www.zamnesia.io/it/531-growshop A fantastic strain, not too tall but very bushy! Give it a try! Z - https://www.zamnesia.io/en/7484-zamnesia-watermelon-candy-automatic-semi-seeds.html Z - This feminized strain boasts everything you've come to know and love about the original cultivar, but with some welcome improvements. Combining Watermelon x Candy Kush with a pinch of ruderalis genetics results in a strain you won't want to miss, we promise. Being an autoflowering strain, the growing options are virtually endless. So, whether you choose to grow her indoors or outdoors, one thing is certain: she'll be extremely easy to grow. Otherwise, she'll take care of herself without requiring any special care. With a little general care and pruning, you can control her growth all the way to harvest. She's perfect for beginners growing indoors, as well as more experienced growers looking for easy-to-grow, high-yielding plants. Although she's not a particularly tall plant, her size can be easily controlled with LST, to which she responds positively. So, if you're interested in experimenting with this technique, don't be afraid to try Watermelon Candy Auto. In just 9-10 weeks from seed to harvest, this strain grows rapidly and, just like the original, will display a bushy canopy completely covered in large buds. Regardless of your growing environment, you can expect impressive yields. Indoor plants produce 350-400 g/m², while plants left to flower outdoors produce 50-100 g/plant. These are quite substantial yields for an autoflowering strain. With a THC level of 20%, Watermelon Candy Auto is a 50/50 sativa/indica hybrid, offering users the best of both worlds. After a few tokes, you'll feel more optimistic, and even the most stoic smokers won't be able to suppress a smile. After a few minutes, a deep sense of relaxation will take over, perfect for welcoming you home after a long day. Overall, Watermelon Candy Auto builds on the qualities that made the original so popular, but it also has other qualities that make it a much simpler and more practical option. You know it, but I recommend it. You'll find so much beauty here, essentially "the best nature has to offer." Z - www.zamnesia.com Music // www.radionula.com + Feng Shui Music + Frequency 432Hz

Overall auch ein toller grow mit vielen learnings. Hab Sie zum Schluss mal 3-4 Tage im Dunkeln und ohne zu gießen stehen lassen, da ich weg war. Entspchend trocken sieht Sie bei der Ernte aus.

Ell A pas l’air malheureuse

first day of putting into setup forgot to check water temp ended up getting to 77 may also be why #3 started teisting bad. Roots already coming out of bottom seem healthy. I am in growing in my garage I have an ac unit hooked up but still hit temps of just under 80 degrees a few days but got Temps back down around 75 during the day.

So this week I topped all my sensi seeds also have started introducing cal mag I’m feeding each plant around 500 ml every other day just before lights go out still running 18/6 light system two desk fans blowing air around! Two humidifiers as struggling to keep ph at 50! Not sure if I should buy a oil filled radiator as night time temperature is still around 15 degrees when lights and fans turn off! Not sure if I should be adding more nutrients? Some lst work on plants as some leafs are getting huge! Not sure if I should cut them?

Today marks week 8 of veg! For my vision with this plant I plant on letting her recover from her defoliation within the nexts 2 weeks. Then maybe a light defoliation and making the switch to 12/12. Things have been going well for this plant, as you may know she struggled at first! But now shes adapted to the nutrients well and feeding program im feeding everyother day! Water inbetween! Im also not giving the plant a lot of water making sure I do not over water the plant! Learning over here! Ive been enjoy playing and traning the plant getting her to grow big and wide and thick!!! Its been super fun! Im so ready to kick things into bloom the next couple weeks! Much love & happy growing! Lets Go GUAVA SLUSHY

All is good.. NPK on point. Staying on top of it.☘️

Man another great strain from Divine seeds . The germinating was fast and they were into the soil in no time , within a few weeks I had a great looking female plant . She was topped and trained well giving me 4 solid main branches . The bud development was fast and by the end they were very dense and sticky . I was doing organics for the first 2 months and then synthetic just to go and finish it on the brand Dutch science "bloom" . I was so impressed with the smells and growth that I went and popped another strain at home .. The consistent results made me want to try a other one and so I did . I'm hooked now ..

Just starting the 3rd week, I’m at 1/2 strength on the nutrients, will be changing water and nutrients every Saturday. Looking good. Roots coming thru. So far so good coming into second weekend of clean water and more food on Saturday. Really starting to get full. 8/18 Fresh water and nutrients today and both topped. Finishing out the 3rd week all topped and ready to bush out.

Day 43. Queen is reaching sky, had to move lamp one more time. Margaret is getting fatter, loads of mini colas and buds, really compact version of that strain. Today - plain water, next watering they will get molasses tea. Then plain water and at the end of week - full blast of nutes ! To me it looked like top leaves of Queen getting bleached lightly, think i have just 30 cm left of height, let's hope she will be massive , while staying low ;))) Her structure is very stretch out, a bit too big distance between nodes compared to what i like or would want to see from perfect plant. Day 46. Queen still has obvious light bleach, quantum boards makes your plants hungry for cal mag. Hope it and later silica feed will bring all to normal. Both girls pack like crazy, really fun to observe. Both looks to be not so far from 1g/W ;))) No third needed !!! Hopefully ... ;))) Tomorrow they will get only third feed in theirs life ... Nutes companies would hate me ;))) Day 48. Queen is super sensitive to Mag, second Cap-Mag feed and she burns again ... Will go water, water, silica, water now. Will see how they look after this. Girls still drink fast, there is no lockouts, but rusty spots tells everything. I noticed that this strain don't need big feed, she grows nice when hungry. Happy Growing !