Green light is radiation with wavelengths between 520 and 560 nm and it affects photosynthesis, plant height, and flowering. Plants reflect green light and this is why they appear green to our eyes. As a result, some growers think that plants don’t use green wavelengths, but they actually do! In fact, only around 5 – 10% of green light is reflected from leaves and the rest (90 – 95 %) is absorbed or transmitted to lower leaves [1]. Green wavelengths get used in photosynthesis. Chlorophyll pigments absorb small amounts of green wavelengths. Light that doesn’t get absorbed is transmitted to leaves that are shaded out from direct light. This means that leaves at the bottom of the canopy get more green light than leaves at the top. A high proportion of green wavelengths compared to other colors tells lower leaves that they are being shaded out, so they are able to react accordingly. Lower leaves may react by opening or closing their stomata or growing longer stems that help the leaves reach brighter light [1, 2, 3]. When it comes to growing cannabis, many cultivators are interested in the quality of light used for the flowering stage. In many plants, flowering is regulated by two main photoreceptors: cryptochrome and phytochrome. Both photoreceptors primarily respond to blue light but can also respond to green, although to a lesser extent. Green can accelerate the start of flowering in several species (although cannabis has yet to be tested) [1, 4, 5]. However, once flowering has begun, it’s important to provide plants with a “full spectrum” light that has high amounts of blue and red light, and moderate amounts of green, in order for photosynthesis to be optimized. Green light mediates seed germination in some species. Seeds use green wavelengths to decide whether the environment is good for germination. Shade environments are enriched in green relative to red and blue light, so a plant can tell if it is shady or sunny. A seed that senses a shaded environment may stay dormant to avoid poor growing conditions [1]. Some examples of plant species where researchers have documented this response are: ryegrass (a grass that grows in tufts) and Chondrilla (a plant related to dandelion) [1, 6]. Although green wavelengths generally tell plants NOT to germinate, there are some exceptions! Surprisingly, green wavelengths can stimulate seed germination in some species like Aeschynomene, Tephrosia, Solidago, Cyrtopodium, and Atriplex [1, 6, 7]. Of course, light is not the only factor affecting seed germination – it’s a combination of many factors, such as soil moisture, soil type, temperature, photoperiod, and light quality. When combined with red and blue light, green can really enhance plant growth [1, 8]. However, too much green light (more than 50% of the total light) can actually reduce plant growth [8]. Based on the most current research, the ideal ratio of green, red, and blue light is thought to be around 1:2:1 for green:blue:red [9]. When choosing a horticultural light, choose one that has high amounts of blue and red light and moderate amounts of green and other colors of light. Not many studies can be found about the effect of green light on cannabis growth or metabolism. However, if one reads carefully, there are clues and data available even from the very early papers. Mahlberg and Hemphill (1983) used colored filters in their study to alter the sunlight spectrum and study green light among others. They concluded that the green filter, which makes the environment green by cutting other wavelengths out, reduced the THC concentration significantly compared to the daylight control treatment. It has been demonstrated that green color can reduce secondary metabolite activity with other species as well. For example, the addition of green to a light spectrum decreases anthocyanin concentration in lettuce (Zhang and Folta 2012). If green light only reverses the biosynthesis of some secondary metabolites, then why put green light into a growth spectrum at all? Well, there are a couple of good reasons. One is that green penetrates leaf layers effectively. Conversely red and blue light is almost completely absorbed by the first leaf layer. Green travels through the first, second, and even third layers effectively (Figure 2). Lower leaf layers can utilize green light in photosynthesis and therefore produce yields as well. Even though a green light-specific photoreceptor has not yet been found, it is known that green light has effects independent from the cryptochrome but then again, also cryptochrome-dependent ones, just like blue light. It is known that green light in low light intensity conditions can enhance far red stimulating secondary metabolite production in microgreens and then again, counteracts the production of these compounds in high-intensity light conditions (Kim et al. 2004). In many cases, green light promoted physiological changes in plants that are opposite to the actions of blue light. In the study by Kim et al. blue light-induced anthocyanin accumulation was inhibited by green light. In another study it has been found that blue light promotes stomatal opening whereas green light promotes stomatal closure (Frechilla et al. 2000). Blue light inhibits the early stem elongation in the seedling stage whereas green light promotes it (Folta 2004). Also, blue light results in flowering induction, and green light inhibits it (Banerjee et al., 2007). As you can see, green light works very closely with blue light, and therefore not only the amount of these two wavelengths separately is important but also the ratio (Blue: Green) between these two in the designed spectrum. Furthermore, green light has been found to affect the elongation of petioles and upward leaf reorientation with the model plant Arabidopsis thaliana both of which are a sign of shade avoidance symptoms (Zhang et al. 2011) and also gene expression in the same plant (Dhingra et al. 2006). As mentioned before, green light produces shade avoidance symptoms which are quite intuitive if you consider the natural conditions where the plants grow. Not all the green light is reflected from the highest canopy leaves in nature but a lot of it (50-90%) has been estimated to penetrate the upper leaves at the plant level ((Terashima et al., 2009; Nishio, 2000). For the plant growing in the understory of the forest green light is a signal for the plant of being in the shade of a bigger plant. Then again, the plants growing under unobstructed sunlight can take advantage of the green photons that can more easily penetrate the upper leaves than the red and blue photons. From the photosynthetic pigments in higher plants, chlorophyll is crucial for plant growth. Dissolved chlorophyll and absorb maximally in the red (λ600–700 nm) and blue (λ400–500 nm) regions of the spectrum and not as easily in the green (λ500–600 nm) regions. Up to 80% of all green light is thought to be transmitted through the chloroplast (Terashima et al., 2009) and this allows more green photons to pass deeper into the leaf mesophyll layer than red and blue photons. When the green light is scattered in the vertical leaf profile its journey is lengthened and therefore photons have a higher chance of hitting and being absorbed by chloroplasts on their passage through the leaf to the lower leaves of the plant. Photons of PPFD (photosynthetic photon flux density) are captured by chlorophyll causing an excitation of an electron to enter a higher energy state in which the energy is immediately passed on to the neighboring chlorophyll molecule by resonance transfer or released to the electron transport chain (PSII and PSI). Despite the low extinction coefficient of chlorophyll in the green 500–600 nm region it needs to be noted that the absorbance can be significant if the pigment (chlorophyll) concentration in the leaf is high enough. The research available clearly shows that plants use green wavelengths to promote higher biomass and yield (photosynthetic activity), and that it is a crucial signal for long-term developmental and short-term dynamic acclimation (Blue:Green ratio) to the environment. It should not be dismissed but studied more because it brings more opportunities to control plant gene expression and physiology in plant production. REFERENCES Banerjee R., Schleicher E., Meier S. Viana R. M., Pokorny R., Ahmad M., Bittl R., Batschauer. 2007. The signaling state of Arabidopsis cryptochrome 2 contains flavin semiquinone. The Journal of Biological Chemistry 282, 14916–14922. Dhingra, A., Bies, D. H., Lehner, K. R., and Folta, K. M. 2006. Green light adjusts the plastic transcriptome during early photomorphogenic development. Plant Physiol. 142, 1256-1266. Folta, K. M. 2004. Green light stimulates early stem elongation, antagonizing light-mediated growth inhibition. Plant Physiol. 135, 1407-1416. Frechilla, S., Talbott, L. D., Bogomolmi, R. A., and Zeiger, E. 2000. Reversal of blue light -stimulated stomatal opening by green light. Plant Cell Physiol. 41, 171-176. Kim, H.H., Goins, G. D., Wheeler, R. M., and Sager, J. C. 2004.Green-light supplementation for enhanced lettuce growth under red- and blue-light emitting diodes. HortScience 39, 1617-1622. Nishio, J.N. 2000. Why are higher plants green? Evolution of the higher plant photosynthetic pigment complement. Plant Cell and Environment 23, 539–548. Terashima I., Fujita T., Inoue T., Chow W.S., Oguchi R. 2009. Green light drives leaf photosynthesis more efficiently than red light in strong white light: revisiting the enigmatic question of why leaves are green. Plant & Cell Physiology 50, 684–697. Zhang, T., Maruhnich, S. A., and Folta, K. M. 2011. Green light induces shade avoidance symptoms. Plant Physiol. 157, 1528-156. Wang, Y. & Folta, K. M. Contributions of green light to plant growth and development. Am. J. Bot. 100, 70–78 (2013). Zhang, T. & Folta, K. M. Green light signaling and adaptive response. Plant Signal. Behav. 7, 75–78 (2012). Johkan, M. et al. Blue light-emitting diode light irradiation of seedlings improves seedling quality and growth after transplanting in red leaf lettuce. HortScience 45, 1809–1814 (2010). Kasajima, S., et al. Effect of Light Quality on Developmental Rate of Wheat under Continuous Light at a Constant Temperature. Plant Prod. Sci. 10, 286–291 (2007). Banerjee, R. et al. The signaling state of Arabidopsis cryptochrome 2 contains flavin semiquinone. J. Biol. Chem. 282, 14916–14922 (2007). Goggin, D. E. & Steadman, K. J. Blue and green are frequently seen: responses of seeds to short- and mid-wavelength light. Seed Sci. Res. 22, 27–35 (2012). Mandák, B. & Pyšek, P. The effects of light quality, nitrate concentration and presence of bracteoles on germination of different fruit types in the heterocarpous Atriplex sagittata. J. Ecol. 89, 149–158 (2001). Darko, E. et al. Photosynthesis under artificial light: the shift in primary and secondary metabolism. Philos. Trans. R. Soc. B Biol. Sci. 369 (2014). Lu, N. et al. Effects of Supplemental Lighting with Light-Emitting Diodes (LEDs) on Tomato Yield and Quality of Single-Truss Tomato Plants Grown at High Planting Density. Environ. Control Biol. 50, 63–74 (2012).

261 g nass ist für die Umstände total in Ordnung. Der Schädlingsbefall hat sie in der Vegi ordentlich gestört und eigentlich sollten es ja zwei Pflanzen sein. Dazu war das Licht einfach viel zu stark eingestellt und hat sie zusätzlich gestresst. Jetzt wird erstmal getrocknet in DryFerms die ich noch da hatte. Trocken 80 g, jetzt fehlt noch das Curing.

Que pasa familia, vamos con la segunda semana de floración de estas Green Gelato feminizadas de RoyalQueenSeeds. Vamos al lío ,se trasplantaron en macetas de 7 litros definitivamente. El ph se controla en 6.0 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 24/20 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. El ciclo de floración puse 12h de luz, el foco está al 50% de potencia. De momento van creciendo a buen ritmo y tienen un buen color, estaban muy bien enraizadas al realizarle el trasplante se notaba la abundancia radicular. Agradecer Agrobeta por el envío del kit gold series en cuestión, unos maestros 🙏 - os dejo por aquí un CÓDIGO: Eldruida Descuento para la tienda de MARS HYDRO. https://www.mars-hydro.com Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Green Cure CBD Auto germinated and has sprouted easily. Every seed I started all germinated. So she is getting acclimated, and should start growing very soon. Everything is looking good. I did provide a light feed to help with ph stability in coco. She is off to a good start. Thank you Medic Grow, and Zamnesia Seeds. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Le ragazze dopo 24 ore che sono state messe nel fazzoletto umido sono germinate senza problemi....💪

Week 3 😈 I cut the top of all these babies 2 days before I have to put more soil next days in the 6L pots Hope u gonna enjoy 👍🙏

Hey now, this week went according to plan. I transplanted her to a 12.5 gallon container on Monday, and she started showing love for her new environment within 24 hours. I am still spreading out the secondaries, and will top them here in the next day or two, then there will be one set of topping left within 48-72 hours after that as she is starting to grow like a weed now that she has a nice root setup. Super excited to compare the bud growth and density with the same genetics I ran last time in a 5.4 gallon container compared to the 12.5. I hope everyone has a great halloween with more treats than tricks, unless you prefer the latter, be safe and blaze on!!!

Major defoliation/ lollipoping that happened this week right on day 20 my main concern was looking for more hermies (due to stem cracks from lst) and also cut out any lower branches that where going to make larfy buds. I only cut up the branches untill the point that the budsites where at least a nice pistil cluster (10and up ) some branches got a good 6-7 inches shaved off some more like 2-3 just depends on the plant with so much variety. Also my plants are like touching the lights it just wont let me mark less then 4inches i have the ability to raise my light another 2inches so i will definitely be doing that. For now i have the taller branches off to the sides so the can outgrow the light without burning. Smells finally starting to come in with more gassy earth coming from DD and devine chocolate GG4 smell coming from the mellows Still see some nitrogen toxicity not sure if should cut all nutes in half considerIng week three biogrow increases to 3ml/L

I cut feeding towards the end of week 8 , the plants could have easily gone for another week but at this point the tops were loosing all colour so I decided to harvest at the end of week 8. The trichomes were cloudy and clear with a few Amber.

All three beautys has grown up to very nice and healthy looking plants.I topped them all once and did a bit of defauliation to get them ready for set in flower in a few days.

11 day dry / bucket & Grove bag cure

Week 3 has just been wild there proper going for it

Bueno bueno, pues empezamos la recta final de esta maravilla de planta. A tan solo 2 semanas como máximo para el corte, tienen un aspecto espectacular, han engordado perfectamente y están duros como piedras!! Una genética que volveré a prepetir

Sigo añadiendo humedad pulverizando con agua destilada, tres o 4 vecs al dia.

Germination week is going great I am looking forward to growing Fast Buds Purple lemonade. I am a fan of fat juicy citrus nugs and being a purple citrus verity just puts the cherry on top. Also looking forward to the fast turn around as they advertise. In my grows I use ONLY organic gardening techniques. No bottle nutrients or synthetics of any sort will be used in this or future grows ✌️🙂

we have the second week of flowering behind us. the plant grows a good 10 cm a week. i have removed the large leaves. unfortunately the german summer is a long time coming. we sometimes only have 8 degrees at night. lots of rain. i hope it's not too much stress for the plant. because of all the rain, it only gets fertiliser every two days at the moment.

Week 02 Introduction This week has been a bit of a struggle. Had my first experience dealing with slime and brown algae. But I think adding enzymes and increasing the beneficial bacteria helped to fix the issue. Also experienced nutrient burn for the first time. My nutrient solution strength got as high as 671 PPMs. So backed it down to about 430 PPMs during the end-of-week reservoir change. Also cut Hydroguard (expired?), CaliMagic, and Superthrive from this grow. Now she's still stunted, but is starting to recover. Hopefully... [START OF WEEK 02] Day 01 - Monday - 08/10/20 - Total Days: 008 ----------------------------------- - [0830]: Still looks a bit yellow. But getting larger! --- Solution strength was at 248 PPMs. --- Just topped off with a bit of distilled water --- PH went up to 6.1 so PH'd down to 5.8 --- Ran the top feed for a bit to wet the hydroton. - [2130]: She's looking even more yellow now. --- Even the new leaves are really yellow. --- Decided to add more base nutes. --- Added 4ml of Sensi A --- Added 4ml of Sensi B --- Now at about --- Solution Strength went up to 304 PPM. --- PH was at 6, --- Also raised the water level a bit more. --- I really hope it's a nutrient deficiency and not an over-watering issue. --- Please live! Day 02 - Tuesday - 08/11/20 - Total Days: 009 ----------------------------------- - [0830]: Looking less droopy. But still yellow. --- Decided to do a reservoir change. --- 4.5gal of distilled water --- 8ml of Sensi Grow A --- 8ml of Sensi Grow B --- 8ml of Voodoo Juice --- 4ml of B-52 --- 4ml of CaliMagic --- 4ml of Hydroguard --- 4 drops of Superthrive --- PH'd down to 5.8 --- Solution strength: 302 PPM --- Since I didn't want to risk over-watering the rockwool, I did not to do a top feed, may do one tonight after the sleep cycle (lights are still set to go off at 10am and back on at 4pm). --- As I was doing a reservoir change, I noticed that the tubes and bucket were a bit slimy. Didn't really stink or anything. Is this normal? Maybe due to the Hydroguard and Voodoo Juice? --- I hope she gets better soon! - [2215]: Getting larger! But still yellow. --- Also can see a root growing through the net pot! Tiny little thing but it's there! Will have to start dropping water once more appear. --- After looking over a few DWC diaries using AN nutes, seems like my solution strength is still too low. Most around this stage average around 500 PPMs with about 4ml per gallon. --- Top fed for a minute to wet the top of the hydroton. --- Solution strength went down to 263 PPM. --- Added 8ml more of Sensi A --- Added 8ml more of Sensi B --- Now base nutes are at 16ml for 4.5 gal of water. --- PPMs went up to 411. --- Still lower than 500 PPMs, but that's okay. --- PH was at 6. Not sure if I should adjust PH using AN nutes. So going to not ajdust unless PH goes above 6.1. Day 03 - Wednesday - 08/12/20 - Total Days: 010 ----------------------------------- - [0830]: Looks like more root growth! --- She still looks yellow. But leaves are perky. --- PH was at 6.2 so lowered down to 5.8. --- Solution strength was at 394 PPMs --- Since roots are still growing, I decide to lower the water level a bit. Now water level is a bit below the net pot. - [2200]: Root is getting longer! --- Slime is returning. Not sure why. --- Solution strength: 357 PPMs --- PH: 6.1 --- Decided to add an enzyme along with more beneficial bacteria to hopefully cure the slime. --- Added 16ml of Sensizym --- Added 5ml of Hydroguard --- Added 8ml of Voodoo Juice --- New solution strength: 430 PPMs --- New PH: 6.1 --- Top fed for a minute. --- This slimy residue is really freaking me out! I hope the added enzymes will help eliminate the slime. --- Going to do a full reservoir sterilization/nutrient change over the weekend. Please survive until then girl! Day 04 - Thursday - 08/13/20 - Total Days: 011 ----------------------------------- - [0930]: I think the enzymes worked! There is little to no slime now! --- Although I think the root was also dissolved in the process. It's now just a little stub sticking just below the net pot. The enzyme is also suppose to dissolved dead roots too but guess that root was too weak? Not sure what happened there. But I think the slime is cured! --- Solution strength went down to 395 PPMs. Decided to add more base nutrients. --- Added 8ml of Sensi A --- Added 8ml of Sensi B --- Added 4ml of B-52 --- Solution strength went up to 598 PPMs. --- PH was at 6.1 --- As long as the PH is between 5.5 and 6.3, I'm not going to use PH Up or Down. But still will monitor PH levels. - [1715]: Checked up on her after her nap and shes looking alive but stunted. But no slime! --- Decided to add some sugars to help maintain the enzymes and beneficial bacteria. --- Solution strength was at 587 PPMs. --- PH was at 6.2 --- Added 8ml of Bud Candy --- Solution strength went up to 671 PPMs. --- PH also went up to 6.3 --- Lowered water level a bit to hopefully promote more root growth. --- Top fed for a minute. --- She is getting bigger, but still looks yellow. Day 05 - Friday - 08/14/20 - Total Days: 012 ----------------------------------- - [0915]: Leaves look a little burnt on the tips. Still no slime. --- Going to back off on the PPMs to hopefully fix the nutrient toxicity. --- Solution strength was at 632 PPMs --- PH was at 6.3 --- Added/Removed water until PPMs were at 536. --- PH was still at 6.3 --- Raised water up a bit, then top fed for a minute. - [2200]: Looking better. Still yellow though. --- Solution strength: 514 PPMs --- PH: 6.5 --- Added PH down. --- New solution strength: 518 PPMs --- New PH: 5.2 --- PH was kind of high. So decided to PH down. Had to use quite a bit to bring it down. But eventually got it to drop down to 5.3. A little low, but so far, the PH has always gone up so wanted to start it really low. --- Ran the top feed for a minute to re-saturate the top of the hydroton. Day 06 - Saturday - 08/15/20 - Total Days: 013 ----------------------------------- - [0830]: She looks stunted. leaves are still yellow. --- Solution strength: 514 PPMs --- PH: 5.6 --- Top fed for a minute. --- Not sure what to do at this point. Going to do another reservoir change soon. Hoping she lives until then. - [2145]: Looking pretty much the same. --- A bit of slime has returned. Since I've been diluting the nutrient solution, the enzyme ratio has dropped. So I guess this is expected. --- Also noticed that slime build up was on the air-stones. Never really checked the stones so not sure how long that has been there. Looks brown too, which can't be good. --- Going to do an H202 sterilization of the system (minus the net pot) tomorrow so did not add anything. --- Lowered the water level to below the net pot. --- Then top fed for a minute. Day 07 - Sunday - 08/16/20 - Total Days: 014 ----------------------------------- - [0900]: STERILIZATION DAY! --- Decided to skip today's night cycle for a deep clean. --- I'm hoping that skipping a night cycle won't be too stressful. --- Temporarily moved her to a new bucket. --- Used about a half of gallon of straight distilled water to flush out the net pot. --- Drained the system and wiped up all the brown sludge. Also removed the air stones and cleaned up all the goo. --- Filled the system with 2 gallons of distilled water and at least 30ml of food grade hydrogen peroxide (35% strength). --- Yea its a lot, but since I'm not going to sterilize the system overnight, I went with a really high doseage. Basically I kept adding until I started to see little bubbles start to form. --- Then I ran the water pump. - [0915]: Boiled the air stones in tap water for about 10 min. Then reconnected them to the airlines. --- I let the air stones and hose soak in the sterilization solution for about 5 minutes so the peroxide can absorb into the stones. Then ran the air stone to help mix and agitate the solution. --- Occasionally, I'd repeat the process of turning the air pump off for a few minutes to let the stones soak. - [1000]: Covered the top two row of holes of the net pot with some aluminum tape. Hopefully this solves the light leaking in through the hydroton. - [1200]: Used an old toothbrush and scrubbed the pump clean. Then drained the system. --- Refilled with more distilled water and peroxide. Again added a lot. --- Ran system again to sterilize even more. - [1530]: Drained the system and refilled with distilled water to rinse. --- Ran the system for a few minutes, then drained and rinsed again. --- Did this a few more times over about an hour. - [1630]: Added 4 gallons of fresh distilled water. --- Added 15ml Sensi Grow A --- Added 15ml Sensi Grow B --- Added 12ml of B-52 --- Added 16ml of Voodoo Juice --- Added 16ml Sensizym --- Solution strength was at 430 PPMs --- PH was at 5.6 --- I was going to add Hydroguard, but I think the bottle is expired. Since 2017 or 2018!? I think Hydroguard is good for up to 2 years from the date on the bottle or 6 months after opening. So not going to use from now on. I wonder if this could have contributed to the slime build up. --- Also removed the CaliMagic and Superthrive too. Going to only use AN products to eliminate the chance of incompatible nutrients. --- Placed her back in the bucket and top fed for a minute. --- Here's hoping for the best. Going to let it ride until morning! Please feel better! [END OF WEEK 02]

SUNDAY 6/23: I had to suspend my indoor operation for a couple months and within a week I'm so bored that I don't know what to do with myself....so... I'm gonna grow 5 total plants in a secluded, mostly shady area on a nearby property and see what results. 1 * CC4 (Candy Cane #5 x C4 #3 - the purple pheno) 1 * Early Candy (Candy Cane #1 x Early Miss #2) 1 * Candesia (Candy Cane #5 x Auto Amnesia #2) ...plus a couple others which will be in other diaries. I'm using the complete Biotabs line of products for this stealth grow..hopefully a few less sneaky midnight trips required to keep them happy. I floated the beans today, They are under a dome, on a heat mat now. Once sprouted, I'll plant the seedlings in rockwool cubes with Great White and Mycrotrex. They will be planted in 3 gallon pots when ready. I'll probably let them get to about the 3rd internode before I move them outdoors. TUESDAY: I floated a second CC x EM seed today. The first one sunk and cracked open but still hasn't sprouted. Both the CC4 and Candesia beans sunk and also cracked open. I should be able to dip their tap roots into the Great White tomorrow and plant them in cubes. For stealth purposes, simplicity in transfer to the grow site, and to give the seedlings an advantage, I've decided to transfer the rockwool-cubed seedlings from the dome to some 6" pots (1/2 gallon) that I've prepared with startrex and silicium flash. I'll grow the seedlings under my 2000w blurple light for a couple of weeks before taking them outside. I should be able to carry all of them in a big box out to the site without injuring them. This will give me time to start sneaking the big pots out to the site. I'll pre-mix the startrex and silicium flash on-site and add the mycrotrex when I transplant them to the 3 gallon pots and give them a good douching with bactrex and orgatrex to get them started well. My soil has been recharging for several months with tons of good stuff added (earthworm castings, bat guano, azomite, biochar, bokashi, nectar for the godz one-shot and myco), plus I'll be growing them with the biotabs line of products, so they will have a good chance. I figure that I'll probably fix up their first batch of PK booster compost tea right away and douche them with it in their first week outdoors. Every little thing I can do to help them strengthen for the oncoming heat they'll experience...probably some extra kelp too... THURSDAY: They are all planted in cubes now. FRIDAY: Still waiting on them to emerge. SATURDAY: Still nothing...so...I floated the following: 10 x Candy Cane x Amnesia Auto (Seedsman) (F1) seeds 1 x Candy Cane x Early Miss (F1) seed 1 x Candy Cane x White Widow(CKS) (F1) seed 1 x Candy Cane (S1) seed If my luck changes and a bunch of them sprout, not sure what I'll do. Knowing myself, I probably won't have the heart to kill them, but I can only spare about another cubic foot of soil, so the extra plants may end up in 2 gallon nursery pots (1.67 gallons) with Osmocote Plus for food...and maybe even a few of them in 6" pots (1/2 gallon) if I get really lucky and they all take off... I also floated a Fastbuds C4 and a mystery breeder Sour Diesel bean, but they probably won't be included in this diary if they do grow...or maybe I'll change the name of the diary.. TUESDAY: Maybe the "distilled" water I used before had chlorine in it, so I bought another gallon of distilled water and even left the lid off for a night so as to ensure any chlorine dissipated. I planted half of them in rockwool cubes and half in rapid rooters. WEDNESDAY: I see several sprouts breaking through.. I decided to go ahead and float 2 x Candy Cane x White Widow Auto (Seedsman) seeds produced in February as backups. I also floated another 2 x Candy Cane x C4 (purple pheno) beans. Worst case scenario is they'll end up growing in 6" pots if everything else takes off...or maybe I'll get some more soil.. so, the list is now: 3 x Candy Cane(CKS) x C4(Fastbuds) (F1) seed 3 x Candy Cane(CKS) x Early Miss(CKS) (F1) seeds 10 x Candy Cane(CKS) x Amnesia Auto(Seedsman) (F1) seeds 1 x Candy Cane(CKS) x White Widow(CKS) (F1) seed 1 x Candy Cane(CKS) (S1) seed 2 x Candy Cane(CKS) x White Widow Auto(Seedsman) (F1) seeds FRIDAY: As of today, this diary includes: 5 x Candy Cane by Amnesia Auto sprouts 1 x Candy Cane by Early Miss sprout 1 x Candy Cane by White Widow Auto(CKS) sprout 1 x Candy Cane (S1) sprout There's still another handful that might emerge..3 x CC by C4 and 2 x CC x WW(seedsman)