Day 42, start of flowering week 3: they are growing nicely, had to do a lot of defoliation on each plant, except the one in the 3L pot. Day 43, I started to discover that the roots are coming out aggressively from the bottom of the pot. I did not move the ones in the back, but I guess same thing. The one in the 3L pot doesn't have this problem. Day 45: getting really excited for these guys! I'm trying to keep the temp and humidity low, and I hope I can achieve some of the purple color :P any advice on that? day46: defoliaton

Devido a Rega a cada dois dias, resolvi fracionar a dosagem semanal de fertilização para toda Rega, sendo assim, rego a cada dois dias da semana, totalizando três regas semanais, com isso fraciono a dosagem para 2ml líquido e 0,16g de mineral a cada litro d'água, totalizando 6ml líquido e 0,50g de mineral por semana.

Days 78-84 - Been lax in updates, but I still log every week to completion. Back injury in addition to The Nineteen, Rona Style, has been a bit of a pain in the posterior. (That means ass) Plants are gigantic and sassy. Had Dangergirl come out and defoliate/lollipop the bottoms out of the girls, saving me painful labor and increasing my yields, so yay for her! Plants are happy, pompoms are getting thick, and everything looks good. Switched FF01 to flower on day 84.

I apologize upfront for all the photos. It was hard to pick which ones to upload, so I picked a good variety. There is gonna be between 4-6 pounds once dried/cured. These were all super dense and very little larf. This was a higher temp/higher humidity run with lots of co2 and they blew up big. It’s been a minute since I’ve grown a cola or 2 that were bigger than my arm…this time there was dozens of them. Each plant was only topped one time. The temps were usually mid 80’s and humidity in the mid 60’s during flower. This might seem high to some, but learning to apply VPD to a grow should not be trial and error, in other words, this was intentional. It’s not risky either. During the first 6 to 7 weeks of flower it is very important to not let your night time temps to go below 75 degrees. POWDERY MILDEW=LOW TEMPS AND HIGH HUMIDITY. Take one of these away and there will not be any powdery mildew! Do not let your temps go below 75! The last 2 weeks I dropped the humidity to 40% and my night temps to mid 60’s for resin production. A couple of thing one should have to create large buds is a temperature gun(for leaf temp), a par meter and co2. Keep the stomata open and feed lots of co2=huge buds. Learn about VPD and not just a quick google search! When it’s dry and cured I’ll be back for an update on weight, taste and effects. Currently the plants are drying in the room at 60 degrees and 60% humidity until I can get in there to trim them. Might be 2-3 weeks. Thanks again for all the likes and comments!

End of Week 7 and finally the 2nd 250W Lamp is here!!! Tropicana Cookies going strong, the Skittlez seem to wanna grow a little more before coming into flowering. Will change the Lightning to 12/12 if it doesnt get better. Plants drank wel over 40L of Nutrients this week.

Plants seem like they are slow to start showing flowers, I had to swap out one of the dragonsblood hashplant as it’s either a herm or male I’m getting a microscope tomorrow so will go over all plants thoroughly and double check sex. So far 1 confirmed male. Photos 2 days after a leaf stripping. Also figured out my RH issues see video.

Permanent Marker weed strain possesses the genetics for high anthocyanin production, which is responsible for its signature deep purple. While the genes are present, the expression of these colors is often enhanced by "thermal stress" (lower temperatures) during the final three weeks of flowering, which triggers the production of these pigments. 👋 Raising the Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio in the growing medium to avoid over-immobilizing nitrogen, on the flip side, being careful not to trigger early autophagy. Moderate, controlled increases in sugar support the energetic demands of flowering and act as a signal trigger, but excess sugar is more likely to inhibit flowering or damage the plant. Balance, like everything else. Visually, when the chloryphyll green gets darker, it is a subtle indicator that the concentration of nitrogen is increasing / more is being stored than is being used. I noticed when you push very high intensity lighting, it slowly fades the green as the plant degrades chloryphyll faster than it can be replenished. When the green of the leaf continually gets darker, it is an indication that the concentration levels of nitrogen are increasing, and I dont want to increase light intensity. Turn down the nitrogen faucet. C:N ratio dictates the rate at which nitrification occurs, if at all. The Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio acts as a critical biological "on/off switch" (or regulator) for nitrogen turnover by determining whether microbes immobilize (consume/tie up) or mineralize (release) nitrogen during the breakdown of organic matter. This ratio regulates microbial activity by defining the balance between available energy (carbon) and building materials (nitrogen). The C:N ratio in a medium acts as a critical regulator of nitrification, effectively functioning as an "on/off" switch for the dominance of either autotrophic nitrifying bacteria or heterotrophic bacteria. The shade of green in chlorophyll is subtly linked to the enzyme Rubisco through a co-evolutionary, functional relationship designed to optimize photosynthesis. Chlorophyll absorbs blue and red light for energy, reflecting green light, a process that ensures the "light-dependent" reactions provide the correct, controlled amount of energy (ATP and NADPH) needed by Rubisco to perform its "light-independent" carbon fixation. Because Rubisco is a relatively inefficient and slow enzyme—often considered the bottleneck of photosynthesis—chlorophyll and the overall structure of the leaf have evolved to manage energy distribution to prevent overwhelming the Calvin cycle. While chlorophyll absorbs mainly red and blue light, it is not perfectly efficient, and leaves appear green because some green light is reflected or transmitted. This reflection allows light to penetrate deeper into the leaf, preventing the surface chloroplasts from becoming overloaded and enabling a more efficient distribution of energy to the high volume of Rubisco located throughout the leaf's mesophyll. The rate of chlorophyll-driven electron transport (light reactions) is matched to the potential rate of carbon fixation (Rubisco activity). If Rubisco were faster, leaves might be darker; however, the "shade of green" represents a balance that prevents chlorophyll from producing more energy than the inefficient Rubisco can process. The green color itself is a byproduct of a photosynthetic system tailored to feed a slow, yet crucial, enzyme (Rubisco) just enough energy to maximize carbon assimilation without inducing excessive oxidative stress or inefficiency. The shade of green in leaves is directly linked to the concentration of chlorophyll, which is in turn strongly correlated with the amount of Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) and, consequently, the rate of carbon fixation. Darker green leaves generally indicate a higher concentration of both chlorophyll and Rubisco, signifying greater capacity for photosynthesis. Increase output or reduce input. Subtle tells. While an excess of nitrogen (specifically ammonium) can cause an imbalance, nitrification—the microbial conversion of ammonia to nitrate—is highly sensitive to a variety of environmental, chemical, and physical factors. Because it depends on specific, slow-growing bacteria (Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter) and archaea, anything that stresses these organisms can disrupt the process.

Mimosa go faster!

10 January - 16 January 10/1- Last feed

6

They are responding amazing to everything, they dont even look the same is just crazy retarded how well they are doing now , ate least to my eyes they do lol love the green, love how full is getting , love it all, if she keeps like this next week mb less i will put them in flower mode other way i wont have space for them after lol For now i have my PPFD around 560 but i will bring this up wen in flower, i did IPM on them just in case with nematodes and a bunch of beneficial bugs and mites lol As always thank you guys for your love , your time, your support and it all, i fell blessed and i am truly thankful <3 <3 <3 

All i grow is medicine for myself, for me and for my best friend with is me nothing to sell, so don’t even ask <3 <3 <3 

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Shes booming through the stretch! Got branches rowing up great as she fills right out. Did a big defoliating of most the leaves under the first net. Allow some air flow through the under skirt. Did a preventative treatment using dr zhymes. Than gave her a good shower to wash off any residual build up. I'm just starting to see pre flowers coming in at the nodes. So she will still have some stretching period to go. I'd say atleast another week of stretching out and filling up my net. Before I start seeing those white stigma pom poms coming in at the bud sites. Lets see what this lady can do. Until next update. Happy growing and stay lit fam.

The tops are no different that a photo. Easy to grow Decent yield Terps are decent with floral citrus tones Smokes smooth I will have to try and grow again

I finally found the spray on the leaves according to my ideas! 1. Produces mist with fine droplets 2. works in 360 ° position ... 3. After pressing, it sprays for another 3 seconds. I have not found it in any gardening or growshops ... You can find these spray bottles in a hairdressing shop. Price $ 12, volume 350m!

On June 9 I decided finally to transplant her to the last pot of 30l. She deserved it a few days ago, but i wanted to extend the time on the other pot because i can put it on the roof to catch more sun hours. On June 11 I made a hard defoliation and i will let her recover for maybe a month to see if she get the shape that i want.

Great harvest and a easy grow fast say about 65 to 70 days. Lst is a must next go around with this one. After week 3 she Hungry for nutes for sure. So iv smoked it and let me say 10/10 I'm talking. Ghost rider Johnny blaze wow. Smelled like cat piss and then under arms as it dried gassy gas. High is spacey stoned body high for sure as it creeps to your eyes. Don't smoke before work for sure. Create's apatite like no other