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Hi everyone Today day 23 and yesterday I snap branches and thigh is with tape but today I seen branches bend down but it hill I'm going to start use bloom on her I feed her this week with 1ml silica .5 calmag 4ml grow 2ml heaven 2ml activera .5 bloom .5 topmax Next week will go down grow and go up with bloom hope she grow big and bushy but will see Day 24 I flush each with 3L water due run off ppm was 1300 if you not check run off ppm autoflower will be late flowering and we don't want that I make this mistake on last grow orange sherbat yeah I didn't flush her and she preflowering for 4 weeks lol So after that I decided to give plain water once a week it safe some money too but I'm always greedy to give more nutrients

The plants look healthy, without any defects or anything like that. A smell is slowly starting to develop... I'm curious to see how much more volume they'll gain in the next few weeks.

Haze wonderful berry!

Tried FIM on the white widow but then they flowered, ah well

Мне кажется, что этот сорт будет даже сильнее bruce bunner 3, но это не точно)) Но точно не хуже по эффекту,

What an absolute turnaround with the weather! This week brought us tons of sunshine, with temperatures climbing all the way up to around 30°C. The ladies are absolutely soaking it up and loving every second of this summer heat. As for training, I’ve officially put the LST to rest. The canopy is wide enough, the shoots are all sitting nicely at roughly the same height, and it feels like the main stretch is finally over. From here on out, I’m just letting her grow naturally and focus all her energy on building buds. The only thing I did was a little defoliation. With bloom phase in full swing, I upgraded the feeding cocktail this week. On top of the tap water, CalMag, and Bio Bloom, I’ve now added Top-Max and a tiny splash of Fish-Mix to give her that extra organic push. Appearance: She looks absolutely fantastic! She is a true beauty to look at—the contrast between those extremely dark, almost black leaves and the bright white flower clusters popping up everywhere is just incredible. Such a cool sight! Make sure to swing by my profile to see the Purple Haze Auto, who is starting to show some amazing colors of her own!

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Inhale for 13s, Exhale for 13s, Inhale for 8s, Exhale for 8s, Inhale for 5s, Exhale for 5s, Inhale for 3s, Exhale for 3s, Inhale for 1s, Exhale for 1s, Alignment. 1.618 More energy, more blueprint. A plant with both standard cellular respiration (occurring throughout the plant, including leaves and stems) and adequate root respiration will have a significantly higher ATP throughput than one restricted to only general cellular respiration in a limited way. Cellular respiration is the fundamental metabolic process that occurs in all living plant cells (roots, stems, leaves, flowers, seeds) to convert glucose into usable energy (ATP). It requires oxygen and produces carbon dioxide and water as byproducts. Root respiration is not a separate type of respiration, but rather a specific instance of cellular respiration occurring in the roots. Roots absorb oxygen from the air spaces in the soil to fuel their energy needs. Roots require a substantial amount of ATP for essential functions like nutrient and water absorption, as well as growth and maintenance of their tissues. The primary form of respiration in healthy plant roots is aerobic respiration, which is highly efficient, yielding up to 30-38 ATP molecules per glucose molecule. Anaerobic Respiration (Inefficient): If roots are deprived of oxygen (e.g., in waterlogged soil), they switch to anaerobic respiration, which is far less efficient, producing only 2 ATP molecules per glucose molecule and also generating alcohol, which can be toxic and kill the plant. Therefore, a plant with healthy, oxygenated roots performing efficient aerobic respiration in addition to the rest of the plant's cellular respiration has a much greater overall ATP production and energy capacity. A soil without organic matter will generally have a low Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC). Biochar is often prized for its potential to increase soil cation exchange capacity (CEC), but this effect is highly dependent on the specific properties of the biochar (feedstock and pyrolysis temperature) and the soil type to which it is applied. High-ash biochars, especially those produced at lower temperatures and applied to acidic or sandy soils, can significantly boost CEC by providing abundant binding sites for cations like calcium (Ca²⁺), magnesium (Mg²⁺), and potassium (K⁺). Biochar is more sustainable than typical organic matter for long-term soil improvement primarily due to its high stability and resistance to microbial decomposition, allowing it to persist in the soil for hundreds to thousands of years. This longevity provides a lasting positive effect on soil properties, particularly by increasing the cation exchange capacity (CEC) over time, while regular organic matter breaks down much faster. Biochar generally offers a much higher CEC than coco coir, though specific values vary greatly; while coco coir might sit around 40-60 cmol/kg, biochar can range from tens to over 200 cmol/kg, with sources like Acacia wood biochar or even coconut shell biochar often surpassing coco's capacity due to its porous structure, creating significantly more cation-binding sites for nutrients, making it superior for nutrient retention. Needs to be charged similar to coco but at a much higger rate. But shhhh.. It's a secret. Ancient biochar-rich soils in the Amazon basin (known as Terra Preta) provide evidence of carbon stability lasting over 500 to 2,000+ years. Recommend a balanced ratio of key cations, particularly calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and potassium (K). A widely accepted general "ideal soil" cation saturation ratio is approximately 65-85% Ca, 6-12% Mg, and 2-5% K. That's roughly what I give mine. Can even add N in its NH4+ form

All three beautys has grown up to very nice and healthy looking plants.I topped them all once and did a bit of defauliation to get them ready for set in flower in a few days.

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

WEEK 4: SHE HAS EXPLODED THIS WEEK! Heavy LST with some light defoliation done throughout the week. No notable deficiencies or toxicities. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ FF Ocean Forest Soil Botanicare Cal-Mag: 4 ml/gal Botanicare Hydroguard: 2 ml/gal Added: Humboldt's Secret Golden Tree 1 ml/gal Reservoir ppm: 250 Reservoir pH: 6.3 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Notes: At the start of this week I added Golden Tree supplement at half dose, and I'm happy with the results. I read some comments about it stinking up your grow room, it is NOT the case for me. I would definitely recommend it, my Pineapple seems to love it. She has sprouted a ton of new shoots this week which have been LST'd to create an even flat canopy (see pics). Through LST and defoliation, my goal is to create 7 or 8 large colas around the perimeter and a bunch of smaller ones in the center (see pics). Using garden ties i bend the main stem down to almost 90 degrees, exposing the lower bud sites to the light. As new bud sites grow, they also get tied down and some light defoliation is done, only removing what blocks the lower bud sites from the light. This means the leaves that face towards the center get clipped, everything else not blocking a bud site stays. She ALWAYS responded positively to the LST and defoliation. Never slowed her down (see time lapse above).

💩Holy Crap Growmies , we are outdoors and in the Ground💩 👉It's been another full week and she's doing great , very nice Growth, considering shes been up against the wind and rain 👈 No problems 😊 so far so good 👍 She's in her preflower faze and shes leading the pack so cool 👈 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈 👉NutriNPK NUTRIENTS USED FOR FEEDING 👈rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉www.nutrinpk.com right now get 10% off using SPRING2022 as the coupon code👈

Not much sun this week so things have been slow. I took 4x dos si dos cuttings and 4x mimosa cuttings for my next indoor grow as I figured it would be better to grow from a mature plant cuttings over seed started plants.

Plants are growing! But so is my mold problem I recently got a hygrometer and noticed that my humidity was ranging from 64-70 percent which I realize is too high and maybe that is where my mold is coming From im starting to see it coming from the drain holes on the bottom of my pot. I’m going to get a dehumidifier and see how that works. Also I attempted lst to both plants . The doc og is a week older and definitely bigger than the apples and bananas but but are coming along nicely.

FORBIDDEN 🚫 RUNTZ by FASTBUDS WEEK #11 Overall Week #10 Veg This week she still in veg She's really a hardy plant with many vertical side branches that make really bushy although she is getting taller. Stay Growing!!! FASTBUDS FORBIDDEN 🚫 RUNTZ

25.04.2026-01.05.2026

Aug 17: Chemdawg auto is ripening nicely. Need direct sun to make trichomes but it is cool smoky and overcast again today. Oh well, not everyday is 24 C and sunny all day. Aug 20: sunny day again and have her under a UV light. Aug 21: chance of rain today so no UV light while I’m at work today.

Time to bring hi-definition production staff on board. Time-lapse flowering stages is incredible. Enjoy it Good morning Babys. Fast check out and let fly Working hard with co2 in my homemade lab. First time Mars Hydro at 100% of his power.Two small boxes always better then just one big)))