Well growmies ive been looking forward to the FastBud Tester 2309 , the more she went into flower the more the frost would build up , nice big chunky buds are tight and full of frost 👈 Couldn't of asked for better Genetics 😉 The smell coming from this girl during the entire grow was just dreamy 👈. Of course I have no clue to what she is but I like it...... Amazing Job FASTBUDS 👏 I would definitely recommend once they release this one 👍 👉 Big thanks to all my Growmies out there in GD land 👈 Much appreciated 🙏 Thanks To MarsHydro for the TS1000 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14👉 All Weeks NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14👉 Weeks 2 & 3 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30👉 Weeks 4 to 8 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34👉 Week 4 to 9

23.04.2024 Continue into week 8 Replaced all filters in the system and cleaned them. Mixed a new batch with the following components: 20+25ml AN Connoisseur Bloom A+B Total volume: 34 liters Electrical Conductivity (EC): 1.0 Target EC for this week: around 1.0. Adjustments will be based on plant observations. Performed one long misting session (3 minutes). Environmental Conditions: Outside temperatures going up, today is raining but this week start higher temps and humidity Wedding Cheesecake: One girl is gonna finish in this week, Two others probably in next. Frutti terps in this, Two pheno in total from 3 girls' Tropicana Cookies: Phenomenal strain; One girl is going to finish this week and second couple days after . Two pheno in Tropicana's girls Purple Lemonade: Tall plants, massive producer, all three girls will be in 9 week provably. Here so far all three girl share same characteristics and bud structure Beautiful and high odor in the room! Lighting Parameters: PAR Map: Maximum PPFD is 950, minimum PPFD is 650. VPD: Ranges from -1.1 to -1.2. Daytime Temperature (DT): 23-24°C. Nighttime Temperature (NT): 19-20°C. Leaf Temperature: 21-22°C. Light Distance: 45-55 cm from the plants. CO2 Levels: 700+ ppm. HLG Scorpion Diablo: Set at 70%, positioned at a 45-55 cm distance. Girls drink less water, so for this week and till the end of flowering new misting timing's Daytime: ON for 70 seconds, followed by 30 minutes OFF. Nighttime: OFF for 70 seconds, followed by 35 minutes OFF. Nutrient Tank (NT): pH: Maintained between 5.80 and 6.00. Stable PH, small drifting up and downs EC: 1.05. Temperature: 19-21°C 25.04.2024 TrolMaster toys arrived! Purchase new DST2E, DSP2E, DSH2E, AMP3+probes. Another DSH2E and DSP2E ordered to complete this grow box! Replaced all filters in the system and cleaned them. Mixed a new batch with the following components: 25+30ml AN Connoisseur Bloom A+B. Total volume: 17 liters Electrical Conductivity (EC): 1.05 Tomorrow Tropicana Cookies harvest! Put bucket with this girl on separate line for flushing Wedding Cheesecake also finish soon, probably in next week, Wednesday think... Purple Lemonade still need full week or more...Exceptional odors Temps and humidity otside start to raises, hope i will finish this run before Tropical heat Lighting Parameters: PAR Map: Maximum PPFD is 950, minimum PPFD is 650. VPD: Ranges from -1.0 to -1.1. Daytime Temperature (DT): 23-24°C. Nighttime Temperature (NT): 19-20°C. Leaf Temperature: 21-22°C. Light Distance: 45-55 cm from the plants. CO2 Levels: 700+ ppm. HLG Scorpion Diablo: Set at 70%, positioned at a 45-55 cm distance. Daytime: ON for 70 seconds, followed by 30 minutes OFF. Nighttime: OFF for 70 seconds, followed by 35 minutes OFF. Nutrient Tank (NT): pH: Maintained between 5.80 and 5.95. Stable PH... EC: 1.05. Temperature: 19-21°C 26.04.2024 Connect TrolMaster components into the Tent-X system. Program DSP2E, Temperature DST2E, Humidity DSH2E, as well as the AMP3 sensor with PH and EC probes, are all in place. After calibrating the probes, AMP3 module works perfectly! It has a quick response in measurements, is accurate, and I am very happy about the possibility of online monitoring of liquid values. After day off use i can tell that all readings are very consistent, compared with Milwaukee, totally without all over the place measurements. Perfectly steady and on spot receding! The Program device runs flawlessly all day, and I hope it has solved all the problems I had with DH48-S timers. The humidity control operates without errors throughout the day, and it’s nice to see in the app when the module is active. Raise light as much as i can..50-55cm from canopy. Set off misting time from 30min to 35min @ day time , and from 35min to 45min @ night time Flush Tropicana Cookies' for one more day, tomorrow harvest, prepared tent for drying with humidifier , ventilation and temperature and humidity controllers PAR Map: Maximum PPFD is 850, minimum PPFD is 500. VPD: Ranges from 1.0 to 1.1. Daytime Temperature (DT): 23-24°C. Nighttime Temperature (NT): 19-20°C. Leaf Temperature: 21-22°C. Light Distance: 45-55 cm from the plants. CO2 Levels: 700+ ppm. HLG Scorpion Diablo: Set at 65%, positioned at a 50-55 cm distance. Daytime: ON for 70 seconds, followed by 35 minutes OFF. Nighttime: OFF for 70 seconds, followed by 45 minutes OFF. Nutrient Tank (NT): pH: Maintained between 5.80 and 5.95. Stable PH... EC: 1.05. Temperature: 19-21°C 28.04.2024 First harvest in this run! Tropicana Cookies No1 is a winner.) First Tropicana Cookies is harvested on 89 day from seed. Total 55 days off flowering. Fast flowering indeed as fast in vegetative stage. Cut this girl in branches and hang upside-down in smaller tent for drying Set RH @ 55% , temperatures not able to control so they will be something around 20-21 in drying tent Second Tropicana will be chopped within a couple off days. Checking trichomes with microscopes can tell that one Purple Lemonade is also going to finish in next days Somme lady's will take full 9 weeks or so.. Lowering light intensity, EC in tank start to raise slowly so i will start to adjust according to condition. Currently 0.85EC is perfect strength i think PAR Map: Maximum PPFD is 850, minimum PPFD is 550. VPD: Ranges from - 0.9-1.0 Daytime Temperature (DT): 23-24°C. Nighttime Temperature (NT): 19-20°C. Leaf Temperature: 21-22°C. Light Distance: 45-55 cm from the plants. CO2 Levels: 700+ ppm. HLG Scorpion Diablo: Set at 65%, positioned at a 45-55 cm distance. Daytime: ON for 60 seconds, followed by 30 minutes OFF. Nighttime: OFF for 60 seconds, followed by 35 minutes OFF. Nutrient Tank (NT): pH: Maintained between 5.80 and 5.95. Stable PH... EC: 0.85. Temperature: 19-21°C Week 8 off Flowering in Summary 80 litter off RO water, 120ml+150ml AN connoisseur A+B 45kW electricity in total for light, Pumps and AC Infinity Fans. 42kW for Light + 2kW Dehumidification + AC Infinity ventilation Week start @ 1.1EC, nutrient strength., week finish with 0,87EC Tropicana Cookies is first harvested on day 89 from sprouting , week 8 off flowering Purple Lemonade is going to be on second place with harvest on day 91, last day off 8 week off flowering PH was stabile and move from 5.70 min to 5,9 max. Light distance for this week - 50-55cm from tallest top , PPFD levels around 900 in center, trough whole week. Lowest reading 500 @ corner Temperature are from 20c at start off day to 24.5c max at some points. Night temps around 19.5-20c. Outside humidity is generally low This week i have install TrolMaster AMP3 sensor and humidity, temp and program devices Day RH is moved from 45% to 55% max, at night times drop to 45-48% Lighting Parameters: PAR Map: Maximum PPFD is 900, minimum PPFD is 650. VPD: Ranges from -1.0-1.1. Daytime Temperature (DT): 24.5°C. Nighttime Temperature (NT): 20°C. Leaf Temperature: 22°C. Light Distance: 45-55 cm from the plants. CO2 Levels: 700+ ppm. HLG Scorpion Diablo: Set at 65%, positioned at a 45-55 cm distance. Daytime: ON for 70 seconds, followed by 25 minutes OFF. Nighttime: OFF for 70 seconds, followed by 35 minutes OFF. Nutrient Tank (NT): pH: Maintained between 5.8 and 6.1 EC: 0.87-1,1. Temperature: 20-21°C

Jour42 defolliation and LST Jour45 defolliation Jour47 arrosage avec de l'eau ph6.3 à laquelle j'ajoute 1ml par litre d'eau de topmax biobizz La plante entre maintenant en floraison c'est donc le début du stretch Explication en anglais (Stretch explanations more) EXPOSURE TO LIGHT One of the main culprits in abnormal stretching of cannabis plants is the lack of light. Plants that are too far from an adequate light source will respond by accelerating stem growth in order to get closer to the lamp themselves. Especially when there are many other plants. A lack of lighting can easily cause overcrowding in a growing chamber, reducing the steady progression of your crop and the distance ratio between your bulbs and your plants. To address this problem, be sure to provide enough light to your plants to prevent stem growth. At the same time, you should not position your lights too close to your plants either since this would also result in an over-stretching of the stems and in some cases, the loss of your crop. In addition to the distance between the light source and the plant, the type of light you will use also affects the size of the stretching of your crop. The orange and red lights encourage stretching and result in thinner, larger stems. And conversely, blue light stimulates a growth of thicker stems and a smaller size. When a species is ready to enter the vegetative phase and undergo its most drastic stretching period, metal halide lamps can be used to deter far too long stems. THE HEAT Heat is another essential element that can determine the stretch size of your plants during vegetation. Temperatures above 27 degrees push the stems to lengthen more and more and will propel the potential of sativas to push as high as possible. Heat lamps that are positioned too close to plants create an intolerable environment that will grow large, soft plants that will potentially wobble until they fall and lose flowers in its fall. OTHER CAUSES OF STRETCHING There are multiple variables that can lead to the stretching of plants beyond what could normally be expected of the plant. Environmental stressors resulting from transplantation (when a plant passes from one pot to another) can cause the plant to return to shock. This will eventually trigger a reaction causing a stretch. Cannabis plants that are not grown in decent conditions or do not receive enough nutrients will respond in a variety of ways and this includes stretching. Crops that are not spaced far enough apart are likely to stretch to sting the light to other plants. Due to extreme proximity, the plants will fight among themselves to reach the light, forcing them to expand as much as possible throughout the crop. HOW TO CONTROL STRETCHING DURING FLOWERING Stretching during flowering, you guessed it, takes place when you move your plants from the vegetation stage to the flowering stage. This is a completely normal reaction, as your plants are preparing to bear the weight of their heads. Stretching of a plant at the beginning of flowering varies widely; some plants can double in height while others grow only a few centimetres. There are, however, two main variables that can give you at least an idea of how your plants are stretching during flowering, and how much. Here are these two variables: Variety: Genetics has the greatest impact on the size of your plant. In general, sativa varieties stretch more than indicas and tend to develop long, slender stems. Light: Some lights, such as HPS, are more likely to encourage stretching. In addition, great distances between your canopy and your lights will cause the plants to stretch as they try to get closer to the light source. Stretching during flowering usually lasts the first two weeks of the phase. To minimize stretching, keep your lights between 10 (for CFL) and 30 centimetres (for HID) of your canopy. Finally, choose indica varieties if you have a smaller growing space. HOW TO AVOID STRETCHING In many cases, you can expect your cannabis plants to stretch during the flowering phase. Keeping that in mind helps to make a plan in case your species ends up growing much more than you could have imagined. If the information is available, get information on the standard size of your species and compare it to the size of your growing space taking into account the necessary distances between the bulbs and the plants. TRAFFIC While outdoor crop operations benefit from natural air to naturally limit stretching, indoor crops must assume the maintenance of air circulation within a confined space. Basic ventilation is enough to help the cannabis stems strengthen and become thicker rather than too high. In this way, the plants continue to grow vigorously without reaching heights and at the same time, your tolerance ceiling. MANUAL INTERVENTION For growers who want to get their hands dirty, there are physical procedures that can be done to reduce stretching. Similar to the natural effect that the wind has on cannabis plants, manually bending the leaves and stems will cause tiny cracks in the plant's tissues that will cause the plant to focus on regenerating its wounds instead of its vertical growth. THE TOPPING Topping is a form of manual intervention on cannabis to influence its performance, shape or size. In essence, topping is a process in which a new node is cut, growing from the plant to reduce its size and create a "v"-shaped notch that will eventually form two heads. Topping may be an effective measure to combat stretching, but it is important not to do so when the flowering phase begins. In most cases, an abnormal stretch of cannabis plants will not completely destroy your crop. In fact, stretching can indeed help increase your performance. For growers with a growing operation large enough to contain tall plants, stretching can increase the total yield of a species with more vertical space for head formation. In both cases, stretching can easily be planned in advance and there are multiple solutions to help you with this problem which is all too common. May the force be with you 💪

Day 27 Flowering:. I am in love with Pog. she always looks so edible.lpl. her buds are such a nice fluffy inviting example of this respected strain from Barneys Farm. So so fruity smelling when rubbed and makes me hungry without even smoking.lpl With less than halfway passed , she will be a good yielder by the looks of her now. roll on sweet harvest time.

Week 6 of flower: Things are looking up. The Red hot Cookies and the Lemon orange are ripening up. The mimosa x orange punch is starting at beef up a bit. 5.8-6.0 pH 440-380ppm 68-65F water temp 72 F tent temp 45% RH

So.. still getting FATTy! I changed the cob, cause i needed to lower temperature.. Now im testing a QB x 150w LM301H + 3500k660IRUVBlue I just ran out of solo tek-bloom, so im using biobizz.

Starting week 11, hopefully this week i chop off OJ and Sky2. They both look and smell wonderfully. Meanwhile getting ready for the next run. :) 04.01 Day71:Nothing to do today. 04.02 Day72:Today's water: 3L tapwater+5ml molasse. PH:6.4, 330~PPM 04.03 Day73:I pruned the non-fully functional leaves to provide more light and air to the healthy ones. 04.04 Day74:Today's water: 3L tapwater. PH:6.4, 70~PPM. 04.05 Day75:Nothing to do today. Waiting for the soil to dry up so i can chop off Sky2. 04.06 Day76:Today's feed (except for Sky2) 2L tapwater, 3,5ml topmax, 3,5ml bloom, 1,5mlbioheaven, 5ml molasse. PH:6.6 ~700PPM Next week... :D

Die Pflanzen sind stark und sehnen sich nach Licht. Das Wetter ist sehr trüb. Viele Regenschauer. Die geringe Luftfeuchtigkeit versuche ich mit einem elektronischen Luftbefeuchter zu erhöhen (siehe 1 Video).

The three Bruce Banner Autos are each showing their own character this week 😅. #1 is still the champ – so vigorous that I started some LST to open her up. She reacted perfectly and is already taking up a good part of the tent.💪🔥 #2 finally seems to have found her rhythm and is starting to grow more steadily. #3 is still very small with barely any progress compared to her sisters.🐌 They are all growing in their 90×90 tent equipped with the full AC Infinity setup (AI controller, fans, filters) and running under a Spider Farmer SE5000. Conditions are very stable thanks to the climate control: temps around 26–27 °C and humidity steady.🌡️💧 This week they only got RO water + CalMag (Advanced Nutrients). Their first Orgatrex feeding was already given last week.🌿 Overall: Bruce Banner #1 is leading the way, #2 is on the right track now, and #3 still lags behind. Curious to see how they will behave as they move closer to the first signs of flower.👀✨

I am still not happy with the ‘Blue Dream’, it continues to develop but shows burns on the tips of the leaves. The curled leaves are also a mystery to me! The fertilisation is identical for both plants, the Moby Dick shows none of these symptoms in comparison. Parallel to this grow, I have another plant that also does not show these symptoms when fertilised. We'll see how it continues!

Just put these lil ladies in their medium n gonna sit back n watch the show..feel free to pull up a chair 😎. Gonna aim for frostier, denser, and more smellier nugs this go around so look out.

Hey guys they are both happy, didn't stretch much because I stressed her at the beginning of the week with lolipoping and some little lst together with change of nutritions but all good expecting some stretch in this week and let's see how she will go 💪

On ne voit pas encore les pistils mais on sent qu’ils vont pas tarder à arriver, elle s’étire grandement de jour en jour

1/4/26 1:26 AM. This is me starting a diary accidentally a day too early iced tea had some problems. The cocoa had something in it and the root hit it and it screwed up so I’ve flushed it out. I put another seed in and she’s doing just great. I’ve never had this happen before so I must’ve. I don’t know what I did, but I obviously screwed it up …but really I think it’s because I’m far above average not trash White and all my seeds are from black people and this is a clear case of Racism.😡😂😂😂 I’m gonna write a book about my struggles. I think you’re all gonna really enjoy it.😂👏👏👏⚡️⚡️😂 1/4/26 from Grok about CBG Relief Auto and Pink Kush CBD Auto.... 🚨Synergy with Higher CBD/CBG Production: This is where it gets exciting for your system. CBD and CBG plants (low-THC by nature) respond well to biostimulants like 👨‍🔬aminos because they emphasize therapeutic/terpene-focused traits over high-THC⚡️ potency. Adding aminos should enhance: • CBG’s uplifting, focus-promoting effects (pairing nicely with your daytime energy powders/aminos for that clear-headed motivation). • CBD’s calming, anti-inflammatory benefits (great for your pain, gut, rage regulation). • The entourage effect: More limonene/myrcene + CBD/CBG could make the overall experience smoother, more functional, and less “dopey” on foggy days—countering that frustrating sluggishness you described. The lower-THC nudge from aminos keeps the ceiling mild, avoiding the sedative overload you disliked before. • Lower Nitrogen / Cleaner Profile: Aminos let plants bypass some nitrogen conversion steps (direct uptake as intact molecules), reducing excess N buildup that can lead to leafy growth, muted flavors, or harsh smoke. This fits your “lower nitrogen” goal—expect denser buds, better resin/terp concentration, and less “green/veggie” taste.🚨 1/4/26 2:42AM The tub in 237 is clogged, AGAIN ..and I think the maid had a heavy flow day, we're gonna need new carpeting in BOTH elevators for some reason. And keep the butler out of the dogs room, he'll get carpel tunnel again!! 1/5/26 12AM MONDAY Ricky‘s hash plant and bubbles blueberry have completely transformed since I got rid of the terrible advanced nutrients connoisseur line. I’m not giving them any breaks. They are one star product and I’m done with them. I’m gonna have to top all the plants now they are doing so good. They’ve become so big and bushy. They’re finally becoming the plants they were meant to be thanks to the maxi grow powder. No more burns. Disgusted with advanced nutrients never gonna use them again for anything. 1/5/26 11:20Pm...... Im so good at this, it's all too strong!! They all look great. THE TASTE HAS TOTTALLY CHANGED!!!! PERPETUAL SALAD GARDEN IMPROVED 100 PERCENT!! MAXI POWDER CHANGED THE FLAVOR PROFILE TO WAY WAY BETTER......AN WAS TERRIBLE FOR TASTE. EVERYTHING IS IMPROVING !! 1/6/26 5:32AM NosfurCHURUtu......the cat treat vampire.....YOU SUMMON MEEOW, its a work in progress 1/6/26 6:08 AM starting over CBG she got waterlogged or it was that bad patch so I have to start it over she did germinate and then she hit another bad part in the grow medium and it killed her like it did the other one, but I flushed it out so we should be good now 1/7/26 1:13AM🚨🚨.I asked about light efficiency and Grok said:.... That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/6/26 5:32AM The ICE T character arc journey!!!!!!! A film by a White man....HA HA HA!!!! 1/7/26 6:10AM...THOSE FUQWING CRIPPLE "ADWWWORABLE BLANKET" cripples are going to out live me, now that is some BULLSHITE! IM ALSO HAVEING ISSUES WITH A LARGE GROUP OF CERTAIN KIND OF PERSONSS...SO I HAD AN IDEA...BUT.....IT TURNS OUT THE GERMANS HAD THE SAME IDEA 80 YEARS AGO...AND I JUST DONT WANT TO BE THOUGHT OF AS A COPY CAT. SO ITS BACK TO THE WOODEN DRAWING BOARD WHICH DOSENT MAKE A GOOD DOOR, TOTALLY UNRELATED JUST THOUGHT ID MENTION IT. 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9 5:27 AM. I’m getting wildly different readings. I’m gonna trust the phone reading over the little device that I bought. 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9/26 11AM TAKE MY MONEY.....ORDERED.!!!!!!!! 1/9 128pm LEON WAN KENOBI - LADIES MAN JEDI .... I have the best remake ideas..... Leia: Are you my real father? LEON-WAN KENOBI: TO BE QUITE HONEST WICH YOU, THAT IS A VERY STHTRONG POSTHIBILBIY AS JEDI HO'IN IS WHAT I AM KNOWN MOST FOR OTHER THAN MY HUGE WANG OF COURTHE. 1/9/26 2:37PM https://cannakan.com/?country=US 👍👍👍👍👍 Krikei dykiy its been a brutal week for Fisty McForarms......

04/29/2021 New week and she is doing lovely! New pistils are popping up everywhere and she is starting to get a faint smell I can't yet figure out how to describe. I believe I got some nice close ups on each top, looking very healthy other plants all have PW on their leaves not a smidgen on this girl, and that is my #1 breeding goal (read my germination period) for my girls. Took two nice tops to clone and Work this cross, time to pop some more seeds of this batch and find a good male, and females that exhibit traits I desire, and continue to resist PW!!!🙏 Goal#2 More sativa stretch than my short, Cookie Cake genotype.

Sexta semana, fiz um flush nos vasos mais queimados, as outras plantas apresentam deficiência de magnésio também, segue sexta semana de flora e apesar dos problemas as flores tão bem resinadas, vou aplicar flowermind essa semana e ver se melhora. Obrigado por

TUESDAY 7/23: The FIM'ing seems to have only doubled her main, but that's okay. She's going from Hawaii conditions to Arizona conditions every day...8-10 hour of 72f/70+%RH to 12-14 hours of 96f/35%RH and taking it like a champ. I foliar fed her after taking her outside today and started training her a little bit. Gonna try to get those tiny lower branches to think they have a shot at "primary cola" status. I had no wire with me, so I just used a pliable length of dead-ish vine that was lying on the ground. I'll use some wire and binder clips when I can find it.. Evening...same day: She broke the vine I was using to hold her down, so I dug around and found some clips and wire. WEDNESDAY: She was just about 4 inches beneath 120w of LED last night with tons of blue spectra, 69f temperature and 80% RH. Those lower branches gained another half inch each and the top colas have turned to face the sun. I foliar fed her and gave her a little douche of Bactrex this morning when I took her outside. Had a cool front come through today, so the high will just be 87f and it's dropping to the mid to low 60's tonight..hooray! They're forecasting another day or two like this before the return to "oven-like" conditions.👍 I carried my pole saw down to the site at daybreak and removed a few smaller branches above them and to the West. I'll see if it is allowing some evening sun to reach her when I go down there to fetch her home to the LED's for the evening. THURSDAY: I was somewhat successful with getting a little bit more direct sunlight to her while outside during the day..about another 20-25 extra minutes. She got a sip of compost tea today with a little kelp me kelp you and big bloom. I tweaked her indoor domain a bit..she's now got 2 x 12w Miracle LED veg bulbs (cool white with 475nm peak), 1 x 75w cool white/460nm 225LED panel, 1 x 40w Sansi daylight grow bulb, 1 x 50w 460nm/cool white flood, and 1 x 18w 18" pinkish grow light bar. None of the lights are more than 5 inches from her, so she's incredibly well lit. I'm estimating that it's about 5,000 micromoles an hour, but I'm keeping the temp at her canopy under 80f with 90+% RH. It's not direct sunlight, but I think she's happy. I'm still undecided as to whether I'll keep her on a 24/0 schedule or if I'll cut it back to 20/4 when she starts flowering. Since I can provide her with a cool and humid environment for a third of the day, I'm leaning towards running 24/0 the whole grow. FRIDAY: I accidentally burnt her up a little bit today..one of the overhead LED's slipped and was about an inch from her top leaves...oops..I put her outside and misted her with some boom boom spray and kelp me kelp you.. SATURDAY: She's got a few crispy leaves, but she perked up and is growing again...whew...😓 SUNDAY: I tweaked her indoor environment today. She's now got a 120w quantum board (3500k) overhead, a 24w panel with 225 x 660nm red LEDs, the 40w Sansi light, one 9w 2' bar grow light, and one 12w Miracle LED blue.

Plant did great. The final product looks great and smells good too. Very easy going grow with great results.