Video at the end. Watering: 12.05. 3,70kg - 4,27kg 14.05. 3,6kg - 3,9kg 17.05 3,6kg - 4,6kg (1g green house powder feeding "grow" in 1L of water) The training is going well, I added some force here and there. Plant seems to be happy. I decided to order some powder feeding fertilizer, since the plant is now starting week 4 and is still quite small. Update: 1g greenhouse powder feeding in 1L of water used at the end of week 4.

Defoliated as well as more LST. The switch to the Mars Hydro TS600 has really done plant #3 good, she’s getting bigger and bushier!!! All is well except when I fed yesterday I forgot to PH the water so I’m hoping that doesn’t cause issues. Any advice on what I should do to negate that would be very welcome!!!

High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

Arrrr the green crack has life in her yet , had some nice growth on this little runt she remains compact but has shown enough to keep around . Transplanted into her forever home in the 28L pot , even in her small state she was root bound in the 12 L , hope to triple her size this coming week .

Hello my friends 😇 I'm very sorry for missing updates, I'm very busy man in last weeks so I have very limited time for myself thats why I get silent for a while 😑 Good think is all of my girls doing great or even better 😅 I didn't add any new pictures for few days, different between that days is amazing, what do you think ?? Have a good night 😴 You Lovely Girls Growers 😇 💪 🙏

very well, brother gardeners! these little girls go on their way more and more shiny and full of resin stay tuned for the harvest 🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟

I like this Strain nice Seedlings

What a pleasure to see, to smell, and to grow, wonderful and magic strain, absolutely in love with the pure OG aroma, very strong, absolute gassy very powerful aroma, flowers completely covered in resin, super sticky, I just love tjis genetic man, always gotta have some OG in the garden this is the prove 💎❄️ peace guys ✌️💚

WHAT A HARVEST!!! My largest ever to date. After drying and curing the final weight is ~10.5 ounces of total flower and an additional 2 ounces of golden keif made from dry ice and bubble bags. I am SO STOKED right now. Thanks for checking out my grow diary. I will be back next season to continue to improve my technique.

Start of week 3! All three plants have had great bud site development during the last 2 weeks. The Super Lemon Haze is a bit thirstier than the Blueberries, so the Slh got and extra 2 liters of feed during week 2. The Slh is also showing deficiency, hopefully with the addition of B52 to the feed cycle, she'll come around. On th blueberries, there has been some rust spots appearing on the largest leaves, I removed the worst one's and will monitor more closely this week, if that issue continues or not. These babies are very bushy, they take up 80% of my grow room space, very excited about this grow and these plants.

She's coming on beautifully switching to flower sometime this week so it doesn't get to crammed in there hopefully. did the final bits of tieing added the second hps last week and will begin with buddy and terpinator tomorrow thanks for reading happy growing guys

Hey bros, She is almost ready for the flip, I think maybe one more week or so, because I want her to get big fat buds so I have to let her build a structure for it. At least for now, all the colas seems to be growing perfectly at the same height, as if she is distributing her energy equally, it's is indeed something unique and I think it will have a good impact on her overall size and yield. It takes a lot of work to get her like that. Her branches are around 25cm each, I think I will let then grow from 35-40 so she can carry a big load of dense buds. What do you think? For these last weeks of vegetation, I'm turning on the Flowering LED part of the QB, which now gives me 120w at 3000k/4000k. Did some LST and got her tied up as she was big enough now and can grow freely. We are now at 8 main colas with 4 internal second ones that I think will get at the main class before flowering, let's hope so. It will be a beautiful shape. So. not counting the super extra work that mainlining is, I think I'm liking it. Not sure If I will run it again, but it's fun and the plant seems to love it also. Oh and I almost forgot.. I had to put down the dosage of AN back to 1/4 of the recommended because I think some leafs were starting to get yellow tips.. very very very small, almost not visible.. but.. as a warning.. I went down. Hope I did right and did not lose some vigorous growth at this last stage of vegetation. But still they love this stuff. Im anxious to see how the flowering line does... going at 1/4 and up every week. I also stop to PH the feeding, I was giving her food at 5.8 but I've read a lot and understood how the ph perfect works and I bet they will be safe with 6.3, as it is after I add the nutrients to my 6.8 ph well-water. Im still controlling ppm though, I don't think I can add the full dosage as we have lots of extreme factors here like high temperatures, high humidity, not the perfect vpd, and etc... so I started at 1/4 and got up to 1/2 and now back to 1/4. She is vigorous. Até a próxima semana! Tchau, do Brazil! =]

And we’re off! 😸👏 So I’ve kinda been coerced into growing this Fastbuds Frostbanger Auto 🤷‍♂️😸 For the last few months me and a few others on here have been chatting about all growing the same strain and comparing how we do along the way. Sounded fun so we agreed on a date. Thankfully the one seed I bought has Germinated so that’s a relief 😅😸. It’ll be a squeeze trying to fit her in my veg tent in her final pot at present, so I’ll probably start her in a small pot and pot her up into something bigger at a later date 🤷‍♂️ These are the other guys who are growing along with me, all nice lads 💁‍♂️ check them out. - Fatnastyz - Valiotoro - Spike-GreenGrower I plan on giving her dechlorinated tap water for the first week, then I’ll start her on a proper nutrient feed. Happy with how everything looks, until next time 🌱

420

Ultima settimana di vegetativa, due mesi totali

cada dia mas glotonas mis bellas, estoy aplicando riego casi día por medio, solo una vez a la semana las abono, el resto solo con agua. hice algunos amarres a los tutores ya que están en pleno crecimiento

Changed my mind kept them in veg for another 2 weeks will defoliate Sunday and tie down last time In the flower tent them flip 7 days later after they had chance to recover Will upload video after defoliation Sunday night