This week went pretty well, other than she stretched like crazy and I am now getting worried about running out of vertical space. I also had a few of my bottom leaves get a few brown and yellow spots on them. I did post some pics and asked a question, thank you for the responses, much appreciated! I am thinking about adding my Spyder Farmer LED 100 Watt light into the tent for the nebula auto because it is about 23 inches shorter than the sour diesel. I believe it would only raise my temp about 2 degrees, and possibly lower the humidity by one or two percent. I must say my dehumidifier has been a freaking stud, running 24X7 and not complaining. I should look into adding another unit, it has been in the mid 90's and muggy for about a week. So far I have to say I am super impressed and excited with this setup, the genetics, and with growing this wonderful plant in general. Already planning ahead to my next grow, and what I can do better. I have been enjoying myself and I really appreciate everyone who has taken the time to answer my questions! I am having a blast and am excited to see what this lady will give up in a few weeks!

Bonjour à tous, Très jolie départ sur (21g) (21 de sortie 👍👍👍). Mise en pots définitive aujourd'hui 😊 c'est parti, maintenant je vais encore plus les bichonner 😊😊😊 j'ai hâte qu'elles grandissent. Je vous ferai une photo tout les jour pour voir leurs évolution. Bonne journée à tous 😉

Auto Wappa by @Paradiseseeds 9/6-12 W10 F6 This week has been about spraying mites and flushing for harvest. I found webbing on 1 bud on AW4. I was able to capture spider mite in microscope pics. These are magnified between 500-1000X. 9/5, 6 &9 I sprayed with neem oil- 2 tsp neem, 1 tsp castor oil soap and 1 quart of water. I am using Flawless Finish to remove any chemical residue from the plant on 9/6, 8, &11 at Ph 6.7, 365ppm, 75.3F. When I harvest, these will be bud washed first. Even using Silica gold, Auto Wappas stems do not support the weight of their buds I Have AW 4 tied up with string to keep the buds up. Aw2 is also tall but sturdier and #3 is the shortest and stockiest with lots of leaves. The hairs are turning brown and curling so harvest is getting closer. Also enjoy some pictures of my Walking Iris. I bought the plant 4 years ago at a master gardener sale. This is the first time it has bloomed. I was so excited to see it in bloom. The bloom only lasts a day. It was all curled up the next day. That’s all for this week. Thanks for visiting. Stay green, growers love 💚🌿 💫Natrona💫

last week of flowering. I just feed with water.

Very good week hopefully will start packing on the buds soon, giving bio bizz bloom now. Defoliating a lot and the seems to be working well, watering everything 3-4 days. Daytime temp going from 20-26 and dropping from that to 19 at lights out

Hey Growers, End of week 8 Plant #2 is growing and looking healthy, colas are filling up with pistils Haven't any issues this week with the plant Slowly Increasing nutrients that way I don't cause any over feeding at this stage Plant is developing a stronger smell. Will keep you guys, see you next week 😊

Bueno!!!! hay una punta, Justo la que da en el centro de las dos lamparas que tiene un tono más amarillo que las otras, pareciera una deficiencia de magnesio pero en las hojas más jóvenes, pienso qué hay un exeso de luz en esa zona entonces decidí apagar 50w de cálidos para ver si mejora, próximo riego voy a hacer run off para ver si no estoy sobre fertilizando y creando un bloqueo de nutrientes. La planta se ve saludable pero no de un color correcto cómo está su hermana. 19/04 Se encuentran pulgones negros en el piso de la carpa, muchos. Se pulveriza con aceite de neem y bioprotect. Además se colocaron muchas trampas cromáticas con fabricadas en casa con aceite de giralsol Se riega con 2 litros de agua (50% grifo + 50% Osmosis) + 2ml de cal mag de top crop PH: 6.4 con el nuevo medidor ya! EC:0.9 21/04/2022 se pulveriza foliar ambas plantas con Big One 1ml x L PH: 6.4 antes que se apaguen las luces y empiece la noche 22/04/2022 se riega con 2,5 litros de agua (2000cm3 osmosis inversa + 3000cm3 de la red) + 3 ml de Cal-Mag para reforsar el calcio, se baja el PH del agua a 5 y se agrega BioEnhancer de Green House Feeding 1 Gr x Litro

End of 4th week of flowering :) All good , ladies looks beautiful :) Lamp on 70% Small defiecences on Cannatonic - Hungry! Food! I don't know exactly what's going on with Tropicana Bannana - any ideas? I suppose it's an enzyme problem? Maybe to much acid hummus in soil? And this is the effect of some reaction between acid hummus and nutritions?

They’re so beautiful 🤩 the buds are forming so nicely, showing some colours coming through even the stem is purple so can’t wait for these last few weeks to see how she changes! Going to be amazing! She’s frosty like the snowman! Sweet smelling like a candy shop, it’s heaven 🙏

Everything is going very well as expected, good progress. I had the transplant on the last day of the first week..✌️🌱

I’m not too happy with the rate of growth but I knew I would be as I didn’t put dynomyco in (purposely) I’ve been feeding every 2 weeks (top feed) with Phyco myco (started last feed) and am seeing some beneficial changes! But will see in time just how much! I was 1” ahead last time and 10” ahead the time before that! So will be running the organic fertiliser next time with dynomyco and just feeding water and seeing the outcome of that! Autos are my testing ground now! As I know exactly what to do with photos! 😉 plus I feel I wasn’t to go back to 19-5 or even 18-6

Week 22, day 4. 5 weeks after switching to 12/12 lighting. Nr 1 is 155 cm tall from top of soil and Nr 2 is 171 cm. They start to smell a lot and there is like sticky glue all over the plant. Its starting to frost up and the buds are swelling nicely.

Another good week for this lady. Temps were high, but she handled it like a champ. Because she is so beastly and only in a 4 gallon pot, I’m watering about 1 gallon of water every 3 1/2 days. The dry back seems to be better if I don’t wait till the 4 th day. Buds are developing nicely, and stacking really well. I’m going to have some decent sized colas. Frost is coming along nicely too. She has a Kush smell with some sandalwood at the moment… Temps were floating around 82 degrees this week, with RH around 55-58%. Plucked a few more fan leaves, but otherwise just a slight turn each time I check on the tent. Happy Gardening

Wakíŋyaŋ, I am who I am, the salt of the earth. Thunderbird is an allegory; his conflicts with other forces in nature are then an attempt to allegorize relationships observed in the natural order, such as the changing of the weather. He is essentially an attempt to represent the patterns of activity of a powerful, mysterious force in a way that can be understood simply and easily – sort of the way in which a weather map functions today. Moving from18x60x60 = 64,800 seconds in 18 hours. 64800x860(ppfd) = 55,728,000 umol per daylight. Into Flower 12x60x60 = 43,200 seconds in 12 hours. 43200x1145(ppfd) = 49,464,000 umol per daylight. It's asking a lot of Rubisco regeneration to maintain 50 DLI in the 12 instead of 18. Raised the ambient CO2 to 1200 to 1500 ppm to achieve efficient gas exchange. I don't recommend. Adding sugar to an indoor growing medium is a highly effective way to stimulate microbial activity, which rapidly breaks down the sugars and releases CO2 through cellular respiration. You can safely capture this CO2 to fertilize indoor crops and boost photosynthesis. While this process works, the setup requires precise management to avoid common indoor growing hazards. The plant Carbon to Nitrogen C:N ratio defines the balance between structural carbon (sugars/cellulose) and nitrogen (proteins/enzymes). It acts as a master regulator of plant health, growth, and metabolism. Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) is the engine of photosynthesis responsible for fixing atmospheric CO2 into sugars. It is intimately tied to the C:N ratio for three primary reasons. It is the Plant’s Biggest Nitrogen Sink, Drives the Carbon Side, and it is the Nitrogen Control Knob. Understanding this relationship allows you to predict how plants respond to environmental stress or fertilizer. Rubisco acts as the primary storage sink for leaf nitrogen, accounting for up to 30% to 50% of a C3 plant's soluble protein. Deep Green Leaves signal a rich abundance of both chlorophyll and Rubisco proteins. The plant possesses the heavy enzymatic machinery required to handle 1145 PPFD. Pale or yellowing leaves indicate a nitrogen deficiency. The plant is actively breaking down its own Rubisco to salvage nitrogen for newer growth, drastically reducing its light-tolerance threshold. Subtle difference, but understanding is important in order to be able to judge when to dial light intensity up and light intensity down, when to push, and when to back off. An extra dose of magnesium is vital if a plant is going to push through the growing pains of high-intensity lighting. Foliar application of magnesium is an excellent and rapid way to assist with Rubisco regeneration within a plant, so long as it is applied correctly. Spray strictly in the early morning or late evening, mixing your magnesium with a little fulvic acid or chelator, but only when she gets a little limey on top. This, for me, is the experience of growing, akin to "riding the surf" maintaining efficient Rubisco regeneration through visual identification of the shade of green. Surf a razor-thin wave when balancing light intensity, nutrient availability, and transpiration to maximize Rubisco enzyme efficiency. Keeping the Calvin cycle fully charged without tipping into nutrient toxicity, light stress, or the dreaded chlorosis requires paying close attention to the visual cues the plant provides. By monitoring these subtle shifts in color, turgor pressure, and leaf posture, you adjust your environmental controls and surf that exact razor-thin wave. Nute recycling acts as the vital execution mechanism for autophagy, which defines senescence. Natural senescence is a genetically programmed developmental stage aimed at nutrient recycling, whereas triggered autophagy is a rapid survival response activated by environmental stress. While both processes utilize the vacuole to break down cellular material, their triggers, selectivity, and overall goals are entirely different. Cannabis plant senescence is not separate from nutrient recycling protocols; rather, nutrient recycling is the primary physiological purpose of senescence, and autophagy serves as the core switch mechanism executing both processes. Takes about 24 to 48 hours to notice visible changes once the signals have initiated the autophagic response. Not too late at all. A little bit of fade from senescence 2 weeks from harvest is normal and genetically expected. Send the C:N 32:1 signal 1 week from harvest for the best effect in your organic grow. Understanding what makes leaves fade is not always senescence, but also strongly linked to Rubisco regeneration. That's a whole other subject. Vital to understand the differences if you want a correct diagnosis and to transition from hobby grower to master stoner, differentiating between a true genetic fade and a decline in photosynthetic proteins. Nitrate is nitrate, whether it oxidizes or not is not up for debate. If it's not sunk by the plant you are smoking some if not all of, it's regardless of what your feelings are on the matter. Senescence is highly critical. It is the natural end-of-life stage where the plant redirects energy to ripen flowers. Properly managed, it breaks down harsh chlorophyll, allowing the terpenes (which provide taste and aroma) to peak. Harvesting outside this window leads to an "unripe" or degraded flavor comparable to going without. To initiate the response you seek, you can trigger it multiple ways, when growing synthetically its triggered by nutrient starvation, generally when the entire medium is flushed. This is more to do with N starvation than being entirely empty. Nonetheless. PK boosters are N starvation through maximizing P and K. (Generally only works for synthetic grows) Because you are using organic nutes and you want to maintain the rhizosphere, what you want to do is add carbon in the form of sugars (powdered molasses). It's almost impossible to empty a medium enough when microorganisms are constantly releasing nutrients into the direct EC. Very difficult to initiate starvation responses with ammoniacal nitrogen. Manipulating the C:N ratio is the key to triggering an autophagic response and resulting nutrient recycling in the last days using organic nutes and without having to flush. Generally not recommended for new growers. So do what you want. But if you don't trigger the plant to dump its nitrates into root zones, you will smoke nitrates as NO3- does not oxidize during the dry and cure no matter what you do or how long you dry or cure. Doesn't matter what anyone "feels" about it, how many grows they had with no fade. "Clover steals valuable nutrients." Crop and drop the clover come flipping to flower, its benefit comes from creating an airy and porous rootzone. I don't need to crop and drop once the plant fills the canopy, she blotches out the light, and the clovers die. This is the nitrogen the microorganisms use to convert carbon for respiration throughout the flowering stage.

Purple haze auto begin flowering a week later after the group went to 12/12. She just started drinking a half gallon a day. She has also stretched above the rest of the plants!

Die topf pflanze wurde von 4L in einen 10 L stoff topf umgepflanzt.

No problems while drying. Really strong smell while drying you should use a filter-system for that.

Nice colours