Everything is movin along some will be coming down this week a few need a little longer. I'll get some pics up a little later today I have to retak these pics tmm they got deleted Retook the pics on friday so they are a couple days late but wasnt much different than 2 days before

DSD33 Wk5F Everything's good. They seem happy. There's a strong smell of fruit punch or fanta fruit twist when I open the tent. I repositioned a few branches in the net with ties for better light exposure and air flow. Still watering 5L each, every 4 days. Light : 60% @ 30cm @ 12/12h Medic grow Mini sun 2 240w led with v1 full spectrum: Https://growdiaries.com/grow-lights/medic-grow/mini-sun-2-240-watts Https://medicgrow.com/collections/all/products/mini-sun-2-led-grow-light-medic-grow?variant=40327484735597

#myseed.ge #soil-N1 #mysun.ge #GROWROOM #MYSEED-GROWROOM The second LST and Defoliation

Uiii ich habe es geschafft beide Grows vollständig hochzuladen auch wenn der erste lückenhaft und sehr früh ernten musste hat sich für diesen Grow schon rentiert.

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Vamos familia que ya actualizamos la cosecha de estas Candy Rain de Zamnesia, para el concurso POWER BUDS Plagron x Zamnesia CONTEST. Ya era hora de cosechar, estoy bastante contento con los resultados. Vaya flores que se han marcado repletas de tricomas, y las flores se marcan aromas dulces y afrutados. Es una variedad bastante fácil de cultivar y muy resistente, crecieron desde el principio bien vigorosas, sin problemas y al final de todo recompensó. Las condiciones ambiéntales han sido máximas en 25 y mínimas en 20 y una humedad estable en torno al 36% al final de floración y en el secado. Os comento que tengo un descuento y para que compréis en la web de Zamnesia de un 20%, el código es ZAMMIGD2023 The discount 20% and the code is ZAMMIGD2023 https://www.zamnesia.com/ Espero que disfruteis este diario, buenos humos 💨💨

[ Information ] For all information on this grow, including strain and grow room details, please see Week 1 of Veg. [ Updates ] Day 10 - Topped at the end of Day 9. Foliar sprayed with neem at lights on today. C02 has been increased to 800 ppm average, humidity lowered to 70%. Light power has been increased, now running at 35%. Amazing growth, finally removed all the rogue sunflowers as I didn't notice any significant gains having them. They're getting thirsty today but I'm going to give them another day, possibly 2, before I feed again. I'd like one last heavy wet/dry period for root stretch and then I'll go heavy with some organic nitrogen into flip. I can't use the same net as previous harvests because of the new room design so I'll have to create a new frame to start building the final even canopy. I'm fairly happy with how both groups of plants are growing into an even canopy within their expected timelines. Day 12 - Light intensity increased to 40%. Fed today, 1.05ec (6.8ph) with 10-15% runoff. No signs of light bleaching or stress, their leaves are almost always praying upwards. They could use a lollipopping, but with how quick they're growing I'll most likely wait until a couple days before flip to clean them up now.

My first time making alcohol tintcure Using the c1 , Hold on tight gonna be a trip

Hey guys Everything going good, one Zake and one Shimo (in the front) have pretty much no stretch 😓 Beside that, everything going good, the ChemZu's are so Big 😍

09.08.2024 the leftover of the storm Debby bring 100mm of rain in 4 hour in the Pm, the road to the camper was damage by flood, and the other path, 1h much longer, was closed. 10.08.2024 finnaly reach the camper at 12h00 after a 4h00 tripp😡, usually it take arround an hour👿👿. 😱😱 I find the camper berry laying in the ground, unbucket by the wind and the rain of Betty.😱😱 😰😰And Barry is Missing😰😰 i had proceed to some root prunning has they have been dommage, and give them a fresh nuts solution at 900ppm as the older have been over diluated by the rain.🙏 11.08.2024 The Camper Berry nicelly recover from the storm. 😎 Fastberry is curvy like hell from is Wind Stress Trainig. Blackberry dont give a shit and start showing some nice dark preflower.😜 Finally had some news of Barry, is basement have been flood by Betty😞, so i pass the day giving a hand on it.

Fungus gnats are back 😢. It seems there a fan of organic 😭

normal and healthy plant for this week . i do little defoliation everyday

Starting to pile on the trichomes and weight. Looking 🔥.

It's time !

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Last week I just make probiotics for her.💚🥦

Strong baby! Lady Jealousy was in the vegetative phase for 7 weeks and is now in her 4th week of flowering - wow, that's really remarkable! No automatic before, was like her. She has an irrepressible will to live and is tremendously motivated to deliver! Sour Jealousy means a lot of passion and diligence, but also assured quality and reliability. Let's look forward with excitement. PK is on the way… Take care & bee 🐝 positive! Alpha_Green

Please like and follow my diary and check out my others!! Would appreciate the support🙏 Ok guys week 4 starting now and these girls have gotten all bushy and lushy!! I am just now setting up and starting to play around with time lapses lol here are my 2 tester videos to start. Any pointers and tips would be greatly appreciated👏 Soo the girls are doing great done a little lst and neem oil applied last night for pest prevention I wanted to bend down their main stems and do a little hst but unfortunately their main stemsare waaaay to thick for it, I'll add some pics later Ok and as for feeding we are following the advanced nutrients feeding schedule I have measured EC and PPM this time but i need to go find my notes will add it into this weeks diary Ok that's it for now I've got another time lapse running so I'll add that one later today too!

Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Have fun with the update. Flowering day 54 since time change to 12/12. Hey everyone ☺️. We are slowly getting closer to the harvest 😍. You can see that the lady sucks all her energy out of the leaves and passes it on to the flowers. The buds smell very tasty 😍. It should be ready to harvest in the next 17 - 25 days. But of course we will be observing this closely with the microscope from next week. Otherwise the tent was cleaned as usual and the humidifier refilled. I wish you a lot of fun with the update. Stay healthy and let it grow 🙏🏻 You can buy this Strain at : https://sweetseeds.es/de/red-mandarine-f1-fast-version/ Type: Red Mandarine F1 Fast Version ☝️🏼 Genetics: Red Poison Auto®️ (SWS39) X Tangie (California Orange x Hybrid Skunk) 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .