Day 42 - I swapped the plant side and trained them a bit. I also did one last cleaning on the lower buds spots, which it wouldn't get enough light. Day 43 - The plants were heavily defoliated, the one on the left side more than the other. I also watered them a bit more this week.

S1 62g S2 67g S3 81g S4 74g Total 284g

Day 76: Watered the plants 0.5L with nuts 909 ppm, 1921 us/cm, PH 6.4 Day 79: Watered the plants 0.5L with nuts 875 ppm, 1861 us/cm, PH 6.4 Day 81: Watered the plants 0.5L with nuts 864 ppm, 1831us/cm, PH 6.4 Flushed one plant with 10L clear water

End of the 3rd week for the Orange Sherbet. She just got fed Goldleaf feterlizer. It's been a slow process with ups and downs. I encounter a few issues, but she's still hanging in there. Hopefully week 4 is better. I still got faith in her.

🎅 So, as for the smoke after 30 days of harvest day. Biscotti Mints have a high concentration of THC, definitely above 25%, you can feel it. Beginners should exercise caution. -The taste, I wouldn't exactly call it mint. It's similar to peppermint, but it doesn't taste like mint, it tastes like flowers. Bottom line, the taste is similar to pepper flowers. -The effect is only evening, not daytime. It will be good for an evening relaxation or in the company of friends. -The appearance is something beautiful. Everyone who saw him liked him. Dense, stone buds, green-violet color.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

Alles läuft super buds fangen langsam an anzuschwellen hab eine 2 Lampe mit reingebracht um mehr lichteinwirkung in der Blüte zu haben. Die einzige Frage die bleibt sollte ich langsam anfangen zu entlauben. Bin mir bei autoflower unsicher.

2.08 A week with CO2 and good environment conditions. This growth rate is insane. Some of them suffered transplant shock. Cheers 💚

Day 22 everything seems to be ok 😃👌 Day 23 still growing good 😃👌 Day 24 there is an upgrade with LED light... Spider Farmer SE1500 😃👌 the old light wasn´t good enough 😛👊 Day 25 the ladies are in well shape and a bag of CO2 also added 😂😃👍 Day 26 need to cut some of those big leaves... wish me luck 😲🙏 Day 27 alot of leaves cut off... 😵 but the ladies are in good condition 😃🙏👍

I don't think she is in full flower yet but well on her way. She has taken all the lst and defoliation I throw at her. I added a silica additive since I want this lady to have superman stems to take my torture. Day 32 - She is really drinking a lot right now. I had to water earlier than expected and will also increase the amount I am giving.

Hey now, hope everyone has been well. Super excited football season is finally here so things are about to get busy. I went out of town for 4 days and the plants struggled a little bit with the PH getting slightly too high before I returned. I also came back to see that some type of insect was munching away on the lower leaves of my Sundae Driver which I sprayed the plant and coco with neem oil, but hopefully they didnt do much damage before I can get them under control I have never experienced insect problems indoors, likely because I grow in Coco and not Soil. However, I left a 5 gallon airpot full of coco from a previous grow outside for a couple weeks by mistake, and pretty sure bugs got into. I wont make that rookie mistake again. Anyways the rest of the ladies are looking pretty good, They are almost getting what I consider a full dose of nutrients, even though it half of the manufacturers recommended dosage. I am feeding all Gen Hydro cal mag, Armor Si, and maxi grow. I also add some food grade hydrogen peroxide to keep the reservoir fresh for around 10 days or so but I clean it once a week. Not sure why I cant select them on this site anymore, I know they got sold but they don't list them under either name. I did get all the ladies transplanted from solo cups to airpots on day 16, and it took 24 hours or so for them to recover from the transplant and start growing again. I am running 3 of the 3.4 gallon, and 2 of the 5.4 gallon just because that is what I had available. I hopefully top them all sometime this week for the first time, as soon as the roots are a little stronger. I let them grow to 7 nodes or so before I top them and make sure they're growing fast. Hopefully I can still mainline the Sundae Driver, she looks healthy other than those two leaves chomped off. I dont really do any LST until I get get the first toppings done, because my primary goal at this stage is to ensure she grows a strong set of roots before I start manipulating her. All the plants are on their 5th nodes, except for this Green Crack 2.0 which is only on her 4th node. We got another heat wave coming through my region that I am not too excited about but at least its earlly in the game and I dont need to crank this light up yet. I am only running it at 30% and its putting off plenty to keep this ladies happy. Hoping to get a topping done this week, then another one next week, and be ready to flip to flower by week 7 or so. Thanks for stopping by, Stay Safe and Blaze On!!! 💪 Website: https://medicgrow.com/ https://growdiaries.com/grower/medicgrowled

🔥🔥🔥🔥 en attente de l'explosion florale. Leq branche commence a ce givré d'une couverture de trichome fantastique.

So I have started the plant in a rockwool cube. Updates to follow

Wow what a stretch! She is now in flower and a real beauty. Very light defoliation of some upper fan leaves and lower flower nodes. I will stake her this week as I am sure buds/colas will tip her branches over.

best cannabis I ever grew and smoked. Others agree. This is a cup winner I would win with no competition. 3 months harvested, 90% consumed. Will run more genetics and future cross, backcross. Feels like energy drinks, positive, 100% youre high and lit, extreme ripped. Smell is slight citrus, this is very sweet tasting and smelling because of my methods of growing. Oozing sticky like an industrial adhesive. Daytime smoke, ripped no couchlock. For heavy daily smoker this is above your level of comprehension, good luck finishing 0.5g session. 10/10 all categories. 4 months after harvest video macro, this is what 40% looks like

The cheese looks ready, all pistils have changed.. but she's small. Pistils are changing on the rest (45-55% white), will be trying to use this microscope more to check the trichs but I struggle to get them in focus 😟 Going to start reducing the MC starting tomorrow, roughly 2 weeks left, will flush with ph'd water for the last 2-3 waterings. These girls are sticky, sweet, fattening up and looking really nice Stay high, and stay tuned 😁

FORBIDDEN 🚫 RUNTZ BY FASTBUDS Week #9 Ovetall Week #8 Veg This week she's starting to stretch out and looking 👍 she's going to be a good size plant she's bushy with many tops. Stay Growing!! Fastbuds Forbidden 🚫 RUNTZ