Grow Diary – Day 79 (Flowering Day 59) Strain: Sour Frootz by Karma Genetics Plants: 4 clones Training: HST + SCROG Nutrients: Flushing – pH-adjusted water only Lighting: LED at 50% intensity Date: May 30 Status: Final flush in progress – harvest slightly delayed Today marks Flowering Day 59, and the Sour Frootz are now well into the ripening phase. For the past three days, only pH-adjusted water has been given, initiating the flush phase. At this point, the nutrients in the soil are nearly depleted, and the plants are naturally drawing on internal reserves—visible through gradual leaf yellowing and fade. The plants are approaching ideal harvest maturity. The delay in harvest by a few days allows more amber to develop and maximizes terpene maturity without compromising overall quality. Lighting Conditions: • The LED is currently running at 50% power to gently finish the ripening process while minimizing light stress and preserving essential oils during these final days. Plant Observations: • Buds are hard, resinous, and aromatic • Strong sour/citrus funk intensifies with every day • Natural senescence is occurring – older fan leaves fading evenly • No nutrient deficiencies or toxicity present • Humidity stable around 50%, airflow is optimal • No signs of mold or late-stage issues Outlook: Harvest is likely to occur within the next 3–5 days, depending on final trichome checks and desired effect. You’re in the home stretch now, with flavor and resin peaking. Continuing to monitor closely for optimal harvest timing is key from here.

Finalizamos estas mataro blue,con un olor bastante “inquietante” que se hace de notar,veremos que tal una vez secado y metido al bote. Aquí ya no hay nutrientes,ya que se hizo el lavado de raíces y como dije,posterior engorde por sequía.

One more week in vegetatitve. This week I will put the scrog screen. They are growing well and my LST keep them very small =) Im really curious to know how they will flower =)

New week for the 3 banana Punch 2 pheno are free/purple and buds are huge and Rock solid the other one doesn't have the purple in here bud goddamm the cola on that mother fuckers is insane it's going great there at a size that adding extra nutrients is waste and only making flushing take longer so starting to lower all nutrients and preparing for last week exited times Happy growings Growmies 🤜🏻 🤛🏻 visit www.marshydro.eu for your best gear and use the PROMO CODE: DEVILSBUD Some info about the Marshydro FC-4800 Superb Quality LED Chips: The whole light is composed of 1206 pcs Samsung lm301b and Osram 660nm chips. More than two times as many LEDs are used to drive the grow lights at low currents and to avoid overdrive. Quality is guaranteed and efficiency is up to 2.8 μmol/j. Even PAR Distribution and High PPFD Output: The multi-light bar design and the densely distributed light chips enable the LED grow lights to achieve the optimum PPFD required for plant growth over the entire effective coverage area. Specifically Designed Spectrum: To ensure even plant growth, blue and red light are enhanced on the basis of a full spectrum combination. Not only does this accelerate plant growth, but it also improves the yield and quality of the plants at the same time. Dimming Daisy Chain Function: The dimming function saves on electricity costs and enables brightness from 10% to 100% for the different stages of plant growth. A single master light can connect up to 30 lights in a daisy-chain system. Business LED Grow Light: The light's wavy heat sink dissipates heat quickly and the IP65 waterproof allows the light to operate in humid conditions. 180° collapsible feature for easier installation. All these features provide favorable assistance for commercial cultivation. And some tent info ●【Lock All Light Insid】MARS HYDRO Grow Tent Interior is made of diamond mylar. Non-toxic to the environment, no harm to plants. High-quality 1680D canvas being double stitched, (ALL OTHERS BRAND grow tent is 601D canvas) which is tear-proof for perfect light locking, No light leaks or rips at all. ●【Durability Grow Tent】Stable Metal corner adapters and poles are the trustful supporters of the tent. No rusting nor paint-falling. Quick easy tool-free installation. Carries strong heavy-duty SBS zippers, double layer lining to create a light-proof seal. ●【Easy Observation of your Plants】Special peeks window made by double layers of cloths. Observe the growing conditions of your plants without opening the tent and avoid disturbing plants. The peek window also serves to dissipate heat and ventilate air. ●【Removable Tray Keep Clean】The package includes a removable waterproof floor tray to hold soil and fallen leaves. The tray can be taken out easily to wash. Removable and water-proof makes cleaning easy. ●【Good Ventilation&Fast Assembly】 Circular double-sleeved vent holes with adjustable nylon strap for air circulation by exhaust fan, ducting, carbon filter, or reflector. Better allows proper light, heat, and airflow. Quick tool-free installation. Reinforced by a sturdy metal frame to ensure security and stability, supports up to 140lb. Perfectly safeguard your plants to thrive even in winter

Added nutrients to top off reservoirs everything looks good …I am content so far with testing will be dropping light schedule to 11 on 13 off to accelerate bud development hopefully shortening flowering time

They're all showing signs of sex now♀️ Definitely stunted them during the week due to a timer issue but hopefully we can make up for it during the rest of flower🤷‍♂️🏽 Really bushy plants that I need to defoliate sometime during this week. ✂️🌿

First full week in 1 gallon pots. They will need to be topped soon, most likely between this weekend and early next week before update. After the light goes off, I've been foliar feeding with a fine mist of 1:4 dilution of my usual hydro vegetative solution: 3.5 grams of General Hydroponics MaxiGrow, 3mL of Botanicare Cal/Mag, 4mL of Botanicare Hydroguard per gallon. adjusted using General Hydroponics pH down. Solution is stored in an aerated bucket. Will be moving to a 1:1 dilution.

Apple Pie. mmmmmm 👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrification process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work

Watering the autos in solo cups at least once a day by now. Merry Christmas to everyone by the way. Unfortunately my mum has passed yesterday morning at 8:01am, her stage III cervical cancer became stage IV in just 2 months from october to december. Heart is heavy & broken but at least she is resting now. Negative Energy for me to feed on. Sending Love to everyone.

Tutto sommato le piante stanno crescono nonostante la temperatura bassa, solo 20 gradi nel box, da quanto so non lavorano bene i concimi organici a basse temperature quindi ho riscontrato una mancanza di potassio che ho cercato di sanare con Canna pk 13-14, vediamo come va queste due settimane incrocio le dita

17 Jul Day 22 - Heat stress showing on leaves Day 23 - Fresh water and everything g cleaned. Day 27 - Pandora looking very bushy and in need of a trim. Day 28 - Darkened leaves, recovery going well.

I am just going to add some pictures of the reveg. If you're interested in me expanding the diary make some comments and if I have time I will.

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These monsters are just piling on the weight majority of buds on the right side are tied up did minor defoliation just watching them stack and keeping an eye on the humidity as its begun to rise .left side front to back am haze 1, exotic thai ,am haze 2 .right side front to back lsd,fruit spirit,blue mystic. Thanks for reading happy growing guys

Let me start by saying, I'M SO GLAD I DIDN'T CHOP! THESE BABIES ARE GAINING SOME SERIOUS BULK! I can not wait to see them finish out, It's really testing my patience, but I notice more bulk every single day! It's about time to get the chop, they are maturing really quick and I love it. The smells are absolutely insane!!!

Heard good things about this strain so decided to give it a go and maximise my grow tent with plants no point in not using the space time and energy when I could be filling it with a new seedling lol. She has taken 4 days to germinate which is the usual time it seems to take when placed directly in the substrate

Hi! Thanks for checking out my Royal Dwarf grow! Please comment on how healthy you think the plant is or any thoughts. In less than 2 weeks I have learned so much from you guys and i want to make a point of thanking you as this medicine allows me to live what I would consider a normal day to day life! :) So... Beginning week 2 and from the first few pictures and videos I think the plant is getting healthier, Getting a ph meter this week also, will probably resolve any issues I think I'm having. Day 7/8 I was going to switch from the Vitalink Plantstart + Canna Rhizotonic schedule to Canna A, B, Rhizotonic and Cannazym. I have not gotten around to doing so yet as I think I've been overwatering the plant. stopped watering and started using the spray bottle to keep the moisture up. will water with the new nutrients once the plant has dried out a bit. Day 9: Transplanted from a 1L to a 19L/5Gallon, the top half of the 1L container was dry and had what looks like well developed roots and the bottom half was wet and the roots were hanging out when transplanting. I definitely should have let it dry out more. Day 10: Rhino pro 200/600 Carbon filter arrived and it's the 1100cfm/overpowered version as I read it was better to get a filter with a better CFM rating than what your fan can move. The fan is an Isomax 900cfm or is it m3/hr ? I added a short video after the pics so you can get a fairly good view of the setup. I got 5m acoustic ducting and connected it up as best I could with the space I had. I Was covered in rock wool, didn't have wire cutters and had to go buy some to finish the job 😅. Talk about a nightmare! I left 1mtr spare ducting for the intake fan in future grows. I think it's worth mentioning that the 6 fans on the back of my grow light are louder than the filter/ducting/fan/ducting (in order). Noise level of light and fan combo is between a really expensive/good quality bedroom fan and a hairdryer as a comparison. As I don't have my intake fan yet Im using passive intake and my fan has a 3 speed controller so I have it on speed 1 and there is negative pressure. Finally i mixed up the canna nutrients and changed ph from 7 to 6, I'm not sure what's ideal for autos but I read that anywhere between 5.8 and 6.3 is good for autos? Let me know! Day 11 (update) As I have now realised how to edit my weeks in the diary I will start doing so! Read that a fluctuating PH is good between 5.5-6.5 so I'm gonna stay at ph 6 and let it do its thing. The plant seems to like this a lot more than ph7 although it is still stressed from transplanting (1ltr-19ltr) it's still growing new leaves but growth appears slower. Finally after a few cold showers I have recovered from being covered in rock wool! (thank god😂) also I started a RQS Quick One as a backup for the dwarf and RQS Fast Eddy as Im eager to see if medical marijuana has a better effect on my depression, anxiety and sleep problems than regular high thc low cbd strains. Check out my profile (JuicyFruit) to see my diaries for these strains! Day 13- my dwarf still seems stressed from the transplant, its growing some new leaves slowly but is still drooping from transplant. gonna be a dwarf-dwarf by the sounds of it! 😆 and i was doing some research on optimal hang heights for my Phlizon "3000w" COB LED, it seems that 40 inches is good to start from. i also read another users opinion that the switch on the fixture labelled VEG&BLOOM is mixed up with the other switch that is labelled STRONGER. The VEG&BLOOM switch is LEDs along with IR. (i read that the IR is probably further stressing my transplanted dwarf) and the STRONGER switch is COBs. i took a minute to think about this but after realizing that the plants can probably handle the COBs (STRONGER) at the right distance i may aswell use them for veg and switch the LEDs and the COBs on 1 or 2 weeks before flowering for full flower power! after reading all that i went straight over and switched the LEDs off and put the COBs on. il post pictures in the morning to show how the plants reacted. fingers crossed people! Please comment on anything you think i could improve on or any advice to help this plant grow better as it is much appreciated! Peace! Day 13 Update: took some photos and it likes the COBs, although they are very hot combined with a sunny day reaching high temps of 29c. turned the fan up and opened another passive intake on the tent. finally im going to get some calmag and a oscillating fan for the leaves and hot spots in tent :)