The girls survived. Always the biggest stress in the beginning. Getting sprayed with water twice a day. Gonna do the first watering soon. Hoping for growth!

Boy how these ladies have grown. All 6 ladies at this point are showing trichomes and the flower sites are really starting to bulk up. Girl Scout Cookies # 2 is soooooo frosty it's crazy !!!! Other than keeping the tent clean and making sure they get a watering and feeding each week, these ladies have been effortless to grow. One that has changed is that they seem to a bit more thirstier than usual but thats normal in flower I've heard. Well till next time fellow growers Happy Growing and Enhance Your Life!

Commencing week 4: Day 22 on November 14th Day 22-ph'd back to 5.8x range from 5.5 to 6.1 It Day 23- added 5ml Clonex to each buck and ph'd. Ppm around 600-650 Day 24- added a little fertilizer salts for N mostly and then ph'd again. Ppm 750-850. Also turned on a few more lights as well as turned timer off to increase temps in lieu of pending storm. Also adding passive humidifier to at least help with the coming dip in humidity from snow outside. Day 25- pass few days are going well. Aside from a heavy dip in the temp and humidity last night (we have a bit of snow come already). Plants seem to be picking up the pace a little finally. Not much but A little bit which is great because it feels like I've been watching paint dry lol Day 26- plants are doing great. Seem to be happy 😄 despite or maybe because of the changes over pass two days. And..,.we have roots in water!!!!!! So far gorilla zkittlez2 and gorilla zkittlez3 both have a few roots in the nutrient solution. Now I expect growth rate and work to pick up soon. Hopefully the rest get their feet wet soon 💧 Day 28 last day of week 4 Nov 19 Some plants went from seedlings to "hardened off" this week nearly tripling and doubling in size as well as starting with the secondary growth. Some still a little behind. I've noticed all the Gorilla Zkittlez are simply growing much faster then the rest so far. And that out of the three GZ s one seems to be leaving more hybrid or possibly sativa (see pics) . Also one or two of the plants seems to have some funny traits like the Boss Hogg1 very purple and covered in baby hairs. Overall I am amped to see the growth in the coming two weeks and expect big changes 👍👍 Thank you all! who view, like, comment, follow, and support me. I swear it will be much more exciting grow soon!😎

Initially ran this plant as a way to get dial in my tent and setup while coming to grasp with tent growing in general. Since its an autoflower the growing was easy. However this is a very commercial seed bank and the quality you get is in line with that. Now i'm moving, getting a larger setup, and going to run more genetics. Zamnesia will not be a part of that.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Okay I'm sorry for the lack of updated I'm now in week 10 half way through the week. I started my flush at the end of week 8. These really put a lot of weight on over the past 2 weeks and there looking on point there due to come down with in next three to five days depending on my preference. This strain is ripper new released strain lemon ice 2.0

Same as my last run just amazing no problems very hard dense buds frosty to hell I am very happy with this sugar cane and she will be growing with me forever thanks

.

Week 15 (5-5 to 11-5) 5-5 Temps: 18.5 to 23.8 degrees Humidity: 49% to 60% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 1.6 6-5 Temps: 18.2 to 23.8 degrees Humidity: 51% to 61% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 0.4 7-5 Temps: 18.8 to 23.9 degrees Humidity: 51% to 62% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 1.6 8-5 Temps: 18.8 to 23.8 degrees Humidity: 48% to 61% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 0.4 9-5 Temps: 19.1 to 24.1 degrees Humidity: 51% to 60% Installed a new carbon filter, exhaust fan set from 4 to 3. Also it looks like #2 is getting purple, would this mean a Purple White Widow phenotype?! 10-5 Temps: 17.5 to 24.5 degrees Humidity: 46% to 57% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 1.6 11-5 Temps: 19 to 25.2 degrees Humidity: 46% to 55% Watering #1: 800 ml. #2: 1000 ml. EC: 0.4 Exhaust fan set from 3 to 4.

ROYAL QUEEN CBG AUTO ROYAL QUEEN SEEDS Week #9 Veg Week #4 Flower This week she's looking good buds are getting big she's a plant that looks wild her white hairs in every direction with her lime green leaves!! Stay Growing!! ROYAL QUEEN CBG AUTO

Again week went smooth. Nothing much beside watering and checking out its progress but for the next weeks I guess there will be a lot to learn.. forgot to say that I was spraying leaves every day with neem oil to prevent most of the insects

Hi everyone 🤗. The tent bursts at the seams 😍. The buds are getting bigger and bigger :-). The blue chesse pheno 1 is harvested this week 😎. next week both Tangie Kosher Kush will be harvested :-) everyone else needs something 😊. I wish you all a nice week, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🌱

Seeds germinated in room temperature water for 36 hours in the dark.Planted today in 3 gal pots with a mix of happy frog and ocean forest soil.Used recharge in the first watering and now I wait for these 9 girls to be born .)

Nährstoffe bekomme ich nicht geregelt Blätter werden gelb von umtern nach oben gegossen wird nach gieß Plan von growers .ch mit Leitungswasser Ph werde Erde 5,5-6,5 Da die Feuchtigkeit nicht gesenkt werden konnte sind jetzt nur noch 3 Pflanzen im Zelt

Última semana de crecimiento cambio de fotoperiodo a 12/12 ✌️🏾

Sie strecken sich langsam ...

Day 152 from seed ( 98 days since I changed photoperiod) and I'm harvesting after one week flush. A few buds seemed to have started decaying inexplicably, like burned, and had acquired a grayish- brownish coloration that I didn't like at all. I think she's caught a fungus. Besides I also think spider mites have done they job well because I was amazed at the extent they had sucked the sap on almost every leaf of the plant, fan leaves mostly. They have weakened the plant so much that she may be int he process of a more terrible thing that could be fungi. Back to spider mites, it is indeed nasty to see the damage this pest has done so far, because I see they have chewed almost -if not all- leaves, and fortunately they hadn't started to form webs, which I abhore seeing. I had started to see adult spider mite forms into the very inside of buds, while I was inspecting the thricomes, so before this nasty pest would eat up my precious buds, or any other cause (mold, etc) I took the decision to flush and harvest her progressively. First I'd harvest the most ripen buds or those that show signs of decaying and leave to the end the most immature (those that were far from lights, which are terminal and very big and dense though a but immature and bright green. The plant looked overall ready and I preferred to harvest the most bud I could, as you may imagine, but I would have liked another week for flushing more thoroughly. I've been flushing with tapwater and 2 mL/L Flawless Finish from Advanced Nutrients. In the next few days I'll be finishing her completely, drying won't take long and as for curing I think a couple of weeks. The smell in the room is really heavy (in fact it has been heavy for the last month), it stinks oif citrus here.

So alot has happened since the beginning I had to keep them longer than I wanted in my small room as my previous grow still wasn't quite finished, so to help with this I topped both strawberries and tried abit of LST on the others, generally happy with how things are going so far will be moving them to there final home next week

I don't think I could have got 6 of these in my grow space they need a lot of room and airflow. nice strain looking forward to testing the strength.in my TCHECK METER. 18.2% THCa. lesson learned on pruning airflow and RH all very important I caught the bud rot right away I will keep a close eye on the dry and cure for mold. fingers crossed I will not have it. going to do a sulfur burn in tent and garage to reset for next grow. 000

07.08. Blue Sunset Sherbet Day 100# The plant was at the end of its fourteenth week two days ago... the crowns started to develop nicely yesterday, and I reckon that it has already entered early flowering, but from the next update I count it as flowering... the plant has not grown since the last update, probably because it focused on the formation of flowers, and I expect it to stretch out in the next 2 to 3 weeks, I hope not too much (it received half a dose of boost, so it shouldn't) Last night she got her first dose of bloom and boost Pictures and video are from yesterday Stay High and Keep Growing!!!