High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

Hi guys thanks for stopping by, this week has been good starting to fill out more and colas starting to get longer, So overall happy with this week hopefully they both put on abit more size before they flip to flower, hopefully get a few more weeks veg in 🔥🔥🔥 See you next time. www.kannabia.com

Super impressive growth, the best blueberry plants I have grown yet.

se ve un incremento en tricomas, ya el olor esta muy penetrante. ademas algunos brazos se doblaron lo que provoco que las amarrara para poder sostenerlas. en la proxima semana se sacara todo nutriente que contenga nitrogeno, dando ya el engorde final.

This week is really a cruise control week! Day 77,78; Did nothing for the girls today. #1 is indoors soaking up the light. #2 has adjusted well to outdoors. I only flipped a little over a week ago but I feel like the stretch is finished? They arent getting much taller. Day 79: Watered #1 today using recharge. They love this stuff!! #1 did great in transition. She didnt yellow at all. The CMOG dont like water either. I've finally got that through my head lol. Day 80; I checked on number 2. I should have kept her indoors and put something else out. She smells fantastic!! Waaay stronger than #1 an earthy menthol scent with hints of coffee and chocolate. #1 is starting to really bloom and show what sites will be prime. I've defoliated constantly removing leaves that block more light than they absorb. Day 82; Caged #2 today. Just to help give some support from the high winds we have been having lately. Also to spread her out a bit. I also gave a top dress of roots organic uprising bloom. (3-6-4) Day 83; Terp tea time! Idk if I should be even feeding them. They seem happy and healthy and everyone says Less is more. But I had to give some of the other plants some tea, so I figured #1 could get some too. She loved it btw. Happy happy girls!! The Gear: 2x optic8+ LEDs The Sun Fox Farms Happy Frog Soil Native Michigan Soil Declorinated water pHd to 6.5-6.8 8,000 btu portable air conditioner AC Infinity T6 Dehumidifier Multiple fans Roots Organic uprising and terp tea Amazing genetics Passionate Gardener

Plants have rapid growth from the start. Started In solo cups no added nutrients just a light water with compost tea

First week of flower

At the end of week 3 I topped one of the strawberry cough they are all looking good and starting to veg I’m all caught up with the grow diary’s and will add at the end of every week. I’m in Australia and did start a little late into the season but hope to get a decent grow in they will be at my brothers once transplanted and he has a few aswel that I will add into the grow log nothing but sun and water only use a little thrive that’s from Bunnings that I get from my pops shed. They will be in a nicer cleaner soil when transplanted into veggie beds and will have chicken poo as a nutrient source first time ever using chicken poo so see how it goes. Will keep the grow log updated and hopefully everything goes all well for the travel and transplant for the plants in the next few days

📚🌱 Grow Course – Lollipopping (Sweet Mandarine Skittles) 🍬🌈 With Sativa-dominant hybrids like Sweet Mandarine Skittles, you usually don’t need to lollipop too much ✂️. These plants naturally stretch and create a nice light distribution by themselves 🚀🌞. 👉 I only remove the lower shoots that stretched upwards but still don’t receive enough light. Stretching like that is a sign they’re chasing the light – and those can safely go 🌿. For bud sites that didn’t stretch, I focus on the very small flowers at the bottom: ⚖️ Rule of thumb → remove about 1/3 up to max 2/3 of the lowest nodes. This keeps the energy flowing into the top, more productive colas 🔥🌸. Healthy balance = more efficient growth and stronger buds 💚. 👉 Follow along for more grow lessons & weekly updates 🚀🌍.

I've been having a tough time with shipping getting things I need to properly control my environment and running into issues. I have invested in a new; 4x5 Vivosun tent to give the bigger plants more room, a Spider Farmer 1000 ( MrCanucks, a guy I learned a lot from on YouTube did a paid trial of this product with pretty great results, thought I'd try compared to my current crappy LED.), Sizing down to 1 and 3gal fabric pots for a softer transplant transition next go around, the hygrometer/thermometers, some more appropriate sized fans for the tent ( Genesis clip on and treveda circulating fan) to help with general airflow. Overall I'm actually very happy with all my first set plants (the bigger ones), most seem to be producing multiple sites and growing bigger every day. Noticed the seedlings having trouble about two to three days ago at most. Honestly did not give them the attention they needed. First though it was nutrient deficiency or lockout, maybe, overwatering. Finally checked the soil good and seen how clay like and thick it had become, then took a few out their cups and seen the roots we're choking. I have a grow question up wondering whether I should try to save the seedlings or scrap them in favor of more light for the bigger plants that are obviously growing well? Until next week! Happy growing and much love to all! ✌️🌱 -UPDATE- So I ended up receiving my new Spider Farmer SF-1000 LED grow light and my two fans a bit ahead of schedule today! ☺️ Got the Treveda circulating fan and Genesis clip on fan. Reset all the plants to better benefit from the new gear and a couple other things. Need video I uploaded shows the most current setup. I moved all my bigger 1st set seed to the left side and hung the SF LED to about 20.5-21in from the tallest of the 4 of those plants. Most all are at least 9 inches. I moved the ring of the 1st set and seedlings to the right side under the Vivosun 600W at about 24in. Still haven't received much feedback on my grow question regarding my seedlings. Since I wasn't quite what to do, I ended up leaving them out of the cups and putting them in my germination tray. My hope is I can keep the plants surviving long enough off of regular sprayings and using the tray as a make shift nutrient reservoir until the soil and pots finally arrive. Scheduled to be here Wednesday, hopefully earlier like the light and fans 👍 Would love to hear all your feedback and opinions! Hope everyone is having good grows and good vibes!

The flowering is really starting to weigh on the branches so I supported them with bamboo sticks and everything is looking pretty good. Ill be posing more photos at the end of the week.

Day 43 12/08/24 Monday Feed today, it was warm again so they drank the whole 300ml each so I have topped up another 150ml to see run off to prevent salt build up. Thriving 😍✌️💚 Day 45 14/08/24 Tuesday Water today using de-chlorinated tap water pH 6. With Plagron PK13-14 and power buds. Noticing the stretch stop, and now packing out there bud sites 💪💚 Day 48 17/08/24 Saturday Another watering today using de-chlorinated tap water pH 6 only. Picture and video update ✌️ 💚

MATARO BLUE by KANNABIA WEEK #20 Overall Week #6 Flower This week was another good for this lady she's doing good her buds have a good aroma about them. Kannabia.com MATARO BLUE

Day 30 for this girl and shes getting fatter every day, she smells fruity and very pleasant on the nose. Very strong aroma. Very pleased with her so far, and I'm already tempted to do another run of this girl. Highly recommend, she can take a heavy feeding. Also her first sign of brown pistols were showing today which normally indicates harvest is 3 weeks away, however I only harvest based on the trichomes and the overall maturity of the plant. Nice to know I'm not too far now. Being an 8 week strain I may let her go to 9/10 weeks. Cant wait to see what she produces. So far soooooo good! Back with an update soon. Stay tuned. FlavoursUK. If you're not already following my Instagram and youtube channel.. give me a follow and SUBSCRIBE if you like the content. Loads to come. Thanks again.

Ragazzi è stata una vera soddisfazione di aver avuto l'opportunità di provare una genetica di SSSC 💜 Li ringraziamo tantissimo per l'opportunità che ci hanno dato e ci rivedremo molto presto con un'altra delle loro favolose genetiche... molto probabilmente una della fioritura rapida! Coming soon on CampaCavallo 🏆 💚👍🏻

Recovering from being topped, bushing out. Some leave damage, stress or weather I assume

I am really happy that the plant is so beautiful. I am 100% sure that in better conditions it can give even more, now there is little time left to harvest. bye growers OKeyyy now the harvest day is 23/05! i love this strain ! looking for the second plant ;D

Bonjour à tous les padawans et les maîtres jedis Cette plante est vraiment exceptionnelle! Elle représente la force et j'en suis fier 😍 La semaine 4 est déjà la ! Ma plante est saine le LST ce passe relativement bien je l'ajuste tout les jour je le combine avec la technique du pincage d'Apex cela me permettra d'avoir une canopé plus homogène donc une meilleure pénétration lumineuse et par conséquent un meilleur rendement. Le pinçage est une pratique courante en horticulture. Beaucoup de cultivateurs l'utilisent pour améliorer le rendement de leurs plantations cannabiques ou autres. Il est souvent question de 'taille' des bourgeons apicaux. Cette taille se pratique également mais il n'est plus alors, à proprement parler, question de pinçage. A l'instar d'une taille, le pinçage va permettre de stimuler le développement des ramifications tout en préservant les sommités en vue de la floraison. Il est très utile pour uniformiser une canopée. Pour réaliser le pinçage, il vous suffit de presser 'fermement' la tige [entre le pouce et l'index] aux environs de l'apex jusqu'à sentir un léger 'crAck'. Cela aura pour résultat d'endommager les vaisseaux impliqués dans la circulation de la sève [situés dans le pourtour de la tige], la tige conserve toutefois une certaine rigidité. Pour obtenir le même résultat, il est également possible de vriller légèrement la tige sur elle-même. L'interruption du circuit d'alimentation entre le ou les apex et le reste du plant va provoquer un déséquilibre hormonal qui aura pour conséquence le développement des ramifications antérieures au point de pinçage. Jour 25 j'arrose mon pot normalement avec un quart de son volume en eau toujours avec un PH de 6.3 à cette eau j'ajoute 0.7 gramme de greenhouse feeding enhancer pour favoriser son développement racinaire. Par la suite je n'aurai plus qu'à ajuster mon LST jusqu'au stretch et surveiller mon arrosage, Je pincerai mes apex suivant la pousse de la plante pour uniformiser la canopé. Petit rappel de ce que est le LST et comment le pratiquer le plus efficacement possible: Quand commencer à appliquer la technique LST De nombreux cultivateurs commencent la manipulation dés que les plantes possèdent entre 3 et 6 nœuds ou une paire de feuilles. Durant cette première étape de la croissance, le tronc encore flexible est pliable sans risque qu’il ne se casse, même si au fur et à mesure du développement de la plante il sera de plus en plus difficile de le plier. Nous pouvons continuer à guider la croissance des branches durant toute la culture, même durant la floraison, ce qui pour cette étape représente un grand avantage face à la taille, qui n’est pas du tout recommandé une fois que la formation des têtes commence, cela stressera en effet la plante, ce qui aura pour effet de retarder la récolte. Comment appliquer la technique de guidage LST Si nous sommes prudents, la flexibilité naturelle des fibres du cannabis permet de plier leur tronc et branches avec une relative facilitée, même durant la floraison des plantes. En utilisant une corde fine, nous pouvons accrocher la pointe de la plante à la base du pot par exemple ou à un tuteur que nous aurons planté dans le substrat. Nous plierons le tronc avec précaution et nous le fixerons avec la corde, à partir de là, nous pouvons augmenter progressivement la tension de la corde, chaque jour un peu plus, jusqu’à obtenir la position souhaitée. Soyez attentif à la réaction de la plante, essayez de ne pas appliquer trop de pression sur la corde et rappelez-vous que la flexibilité des branches peut varier d’une plante à l’autre. Pour obtenir de meilleurs résultats, il suffit de suivre quelques règles simples. Pour commencer, nous devons choisir une corde fine mais pas trop pour ne pas blesser les troncs au fur et à mesure qu’ils grandissent et qu’ils deviennent plus gros. Nous pouvons utiliser des crochets en plastique souple ou de n’importe quelle autre matière flexible pour éviter d’endommager les plantes. Spécialement en intérieur, utiliser des cordons en plastique de couleur (voir les diaries de @Silky) est très pratique pour voir facilement les accroches et faciliter le travail au milieu du réseau formés par les cordes, les tuteurs, les mailles ou les supports que nous aurons dans la culture. Bien entendu, en culture extérieure et surtout en guerilla nous ferons juste le contraire et nous utiliserons des matériaux de couleur qui n’attirent pas l’attention pour que notre jardin reste discret. Pour stresser les plantes au minimum, la mieux est de réaliser ces manipulations le soir ou juste après que les lampes en intérieur s’éteignent, ce qui leur permettra de se remettre durant la nuit. Normalement, le jour suivant nous pourrons observer comme les pointes des branches que nous avons pliées se dressent de nouveau vers le haut à la recherche d’une source de lumière. Je combine un pincage d'Apex (explications plus haut) au LST cela me permettra d'avoir une canopé plus homogène donc une meilleure pénétration lumineuse et par conséquent un meilleur rendement. Que la force soit avec vous 💪