thats the plants settled into their new home they are growing im happy defioled shit out my big plant if thats a word so far so good last grow all 3 strains grew well so im happy try again but im doing 3 818 headband cause the stuff is the 💩

Dos si dos 33 naissance le 7 février, passage en floraison le 24 avril. Plante vigoureux tige forte tout va bien pour le moment...rempotage une semaine avant le passage en floraison dans un pot de 30 litre, mélange de batmix, humus de lombric,terre et guano chauves-souris. Arrosage seulment à l'eau du robinet, que j'ai laissé reposer 24heure,arrosage entre 2 et 3 jours environ 2.5 litre d'eau.

ALRIGHTY THEN REMINDER I DO 2 UPDATES PER WEEK 👉WEEKLYROUNDUP👈👉MIDWEEKLY UPDATE👈 At this very moment , hint of Grape Crush Soda smells 😛 Which is awsome We just hit week 6 and all is well , for the most part , still having a little Cal/Mag issue but hopfully with some adjustments I got under control 😃 ....... Middle of last week I have decided to start with her little sister and started a little training by pulling her over to the side 👌 And will continue to LST this week👈 And she's also showing Cal/Mag problem but like her big sister I have made adjustments and hope that works she's already begun next faze by flowering 😲 They are so quick 👈 Baby Sister Plant #2 Is 4 weeks 28 days from seed rain water to be used entire growth👍 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉IF ANYONE IS LOOKING FOR A PLACE TO HANGOUT VIA GROWDIARIES AND TALK GROWING AND JUST CHILL AND WHATEVER .....👈 👉I CREATED GROWDIARIES DISCORD SERVER !!!!!!!!!!!👈 LINK IS 👉 https://discord.gg/zQmTHkbejs AND SEE HOW IT PLAYS OUT !!!!!!!

Week 5 for our Fast Version B from super sativa seeds club. She has a very nice pine tree shape! Looking amazing at the moment, cant wait to flower the lady and compare with version A. This week we gave some orgatrex and applied some more top dressing with worm Castings

Metals in general reflect all of the light energy that comes onto them but copper doesn't reflect all of them. It absorbs part of the spectrum. It absorbs the blue part of the light and maybe some of the green light and reflects all the coppery colored light which comes back into our eyes. That's what happens with the metal. The green pigment in leaves is chlorophyll, which absorbs red and blue light from sunlight. Therefore, the light the leaves reflect is diminished in red and blue and appears green. The molecules of chlorophyll are large (C55H70MgN4O6). They are not soluble in the aqueous solution that fills plant cells. Instead, they are attached to the membranes of disc-like structures, called chloroplasts, inside the cells. Chloroplasts are the site of photosynthesis, the process in which light energy is converted to chemical energy. In chloroplasts, the light absorbed by chlorophyll supplies the energy used by plants to transform carbon dioxide and water into oxygen and carbohydrates, which have a general formula of Cx(H2O)y. In this endothermic transformation, the energy of the light absorbed by chlorophyll is converted into chemical energy stored in carbohydrates (sugars and starches). This chemical energy drives the biochemical reactions that cause plants to grow, flower, and produce seed. Chlorophyll is not a very stable compound; bright sunlight causes it to decompose. To maintain the amount of chlorophyll in their leaves, plants continuously synthesize it. The synthesis of chlorophyll in plants requires sunlight and warm temperatures. Therefore, during summer chlorophyll is continuously broken down and regenerated in the leaves. Another pigment found in the leaves of many plants is carotene. Carotene absorbs blue-green and blue light. The light reflected from carotene appears yellow. Carotene is also a large molecule (C40H36) contained in the chloroplasts of many plants. When carotene and chlorophyll occur in the same leaf, together they remove red, blue-green, and blue light from sunlight that falls on the leaf. The light reflected by the leaf appears green. Carotene functions as an accessory absorber. The energy of the light absorbed by carotene is transferred to chlorophyll, which uses the energy in photosynthesis. Carotene is a much more stable compound than chlorophyll. Carotene persists in leaves even when chlorophyll has disappeared. When chlorophyll disappears from a leaf, the remaining carotene causes the leaf to appear yellow. A third pigment, or class of pigments, that occur in leaves are the anthocyanins. Anthocyanins absorb blue, blue-green, and green light. Therefore, the light reflected by leaves containing anthocyanins appears red. Unlike chlorophyll and carotene, anthocyanins are not attached to cell membranes but are dissolved in the cell sap. The color produced by these pigments is sensitive to the pH of the cell sap. If the sap is quite acidic, the pigments impart a bright red color; if the sap is less acidic, its color is more purple. Anthocyanin pigments are responsible for the red skin of ripe apples and the purple of ripe grapes. A reaction between sugars and certain proteins in cell sap forms anthocyanins. This reaction does not occur until the sugar concentration in the sap is quite high. The reaction also requires light, which is why apples often appear red on one side and green on the other; the red side was in the sun and the green side was in shade. During summer, the leaves are factories producing sugar from carbon dioxide and water using by the action of light on chlorophyll. Chlorophyll causes the leaves to appear green. (The leaves of some trees, such as birches and cottonwoods, also contain carotene; these leaves appear brighter green because carotene absorbs blue-green light.) Water and nutrients flow from the roots, through the branches, and into the leaves. Photosynthesis produces sugars that flow from the leaves to other tree parts where some of the chemical energy is used for growth and some is stored. The shortening days and cool nights of fall trigger changes in the tree. One of these changes is the growth of a corky membrane between the branch and the leaf stem. This membrane interferes with the flow of nutrients into the leaf. Because the nutrient flow is interrupted, the chlorophyll production in the leaf declines and the green leaf color fades. If the leaf contains carotene, as do the leaves of birch and hickory, it will change from green to bright yellow as the chlorophyll disappears. In some trees, as the sugar concentration in the leaf increases, the sugar reacts to form anthocyanins. These pigments cause the yellowing leaves to turn red. Red maples, red oaks, and sumac produce anthocyanins in abundance and display the brightest reds and purples in the fall landscape. The range and intensity of autumn colors is greatly influenced by the weather. Low temperatures destroy chlorophyll, and if they stay above freezing, promote the formation of anthocyanins. Bright sunshine also destroys chlorophyll and enhances anthocyanin production. Dry weather, by increasing sugar concentration, also increases the amount of anthocyanin. So the brightest autumn colors are produced when dry, sunny days are followed by cool, dry nights. The secret recipe. Nature knows best. Normally I'd keep a 10-degree swing between day and night but ripening will see the gap increase dramatically on this one. Anthocyanin color is highly pH-sensitive, turning red or pink in acidic conditions (pH 7) Acidic Conditions (pH 7): Anthocyanins tend to change to bluish or greenish colors, and in very alkaline solutions, they can become colorless as the pigment is reduced. The color changes are due to structural transformations of the anthocyanin molecule in response to pH changes, involving the protonation and deprotonation of phenolic groups. Anthocyanins, responsible for red, purple, and blue colors in plants, differ from other pigments like carotenoids and chlorophylls because their color changes with pH, making them unique pH indicators, while other pigments are more stable in color. Anthocyanins are a whole family of plant pigments. They are present in lilac, red, purple, violet or even black flower petals. Anthocyanins are also found in fruits and vegetables, as well as some leaves. Cold weather causes these purple pigments to absorb sunlight more intensely, which, in turn, raises the core temperature of the plant compared to that of the ambient air. This protects the plant from cold temperatures. In hot weather or at high altitudes, anthocyanins protect the plant cells by absorbing excessive ultraviolet radiation. Furthermore, a vivid petal coloration makes it easier for insects to find the flowers and pollinate them. Adding NaHSO4 (sodium hydrogen sulfate) to water increases the number of protons H+ in the solution. In other words, we increase the acidity of the medium because sodium hydrogen sulfate dissociates in water, or, in other words, it breaks down into individual ions: NaHSO4 → HSO4- + Na+ HSO4- SO42- + H+ In turn, the H+ protons react with the anthocyanin molecules transforming them from the neutral into cationic form. The cationic form of anthocyanins has a bright red color. The color of anthocyanins is determined by the concentration of hydrogen ions H+. When we add the sodium carbonate Na2CO3 solution, the H+ concentration drops. A decrease in the number of H+ causes a pigment color change, first to purple and then to blue and dark green. Anthocyanins are unstable in a basic environment, and so they gradually decompose. The decomposition process produces yellow-colored substances called chalcones. This process is quite slow, allowing us to track how a solution changes its color from blue to various shades of green and finally to yellow. The best petals would be brightly colored dark petals of red, purple, blue, or violet. You are particularly lucky if you can get your hands on almost black petals from either petunia, roses, irises, African violets, tulips, or lilies. These flowers contain a maximum concentration of anthocyanins. British scientist Robert Boyle (1627–1691) made a number of remarkable discoveries in chemistry. Interestingly, one of these discoveries involved the beautiful flowers known as violets. One day, Boyle brought a bouquet of violets to his laboratory. His assistant, who was performing an experiment at the time, accidentally splashed some hydrochloric acid on the flowers. Worried that the acid would harm the plants, the assistant moved to rinse them with water, but Boyle suddenly stopped him. The scientist’s attention was fixed on the violets. The places where acid had splashed the petals had turned from purple to red. Boyle was intrigued. “Would alkalis affect the petals, too?” he wondered and applied some alkali to a flower. This time the petals turned green! Experimenting with different plants, Boyle observed that some of them changed colors when exposed to acids and alkalis. He called these plants indicators. By the way, the violet color of the petals is produced by anthocyanins – pigments that absorb all light waves except violet. These vibrant pigments help attract bees, butterflies, and other pollinators, facilitating the flower’s reproduction. Anthocyanins are a type of flavonoid, a large class of plant pigments. They are derived from anthocyanidins by adding sugars. Sugars, particularly sucrose, are involved in signaling networks related to anthocyanin biosynthesis, and sucrose is a strong inducer of anthocyanin production in plants. Sugar-boron complexes, also known as sugar-borate esters (SBEs), are naturally occurring molecules where one or two sugar molecules are linked to a boron atom, and the most studied example is calcium fructoborate (CaFB). Boron is a micronutrient crucial for plant health, playing a key role in cell wall formation, sugar transport, and reproductive development, and can be deficient in certain soils, particularly well-drained sandy soils. Narrow Range: There's a small difference between the amount of boron plants need and the amount that causes toxicity. Soil concentrations greater than 3 ug/ml (3ppm) may indicate potential for toxicity. Anthocyanins, the pigments responsible for the red, purple, and blue colors in many fruits and vegetables, are formed when an anthocyanidin molecule is linked to a sugar molecule through a glycosidic bond. Glycosidic bonds are covalent linkages, specifically ether bonds, that connect carbohydrate molecules (saccharides) to other groups, including other carbohydrates, forming larger structures like disaccharides and polysaccharides. Formation: Glycosidic bonds are formed through a condensation reaction (dehydration synthesis) where a water molecule is removed, linking the hemiacetal or hemiketal group of one saccharide with the hydroxyl group of another molecule. Types: O-glycosidic bonds: The most common type, where the linkage involves an oxygen atom. N-glycosidic bonds: Less common, but important, where the linkage involves a nitrogen atom. Orientation: Glycosidic bonds can be alpha or beta, depending on the orientation of the anomeric carbon (C-1) of the sugar. Alpha (α): The hydroxyl group on the anomeric carbon is below the ring plane. Beta (β): The hydroxyl group on the anomeric carbon is above the ring plane. Disaccharides: Lactose (glucose + galactose), sucrose (glucose + fructose), and maltose (glucose + glucose) are examples of disaccharides linked by glycosidic bonds. Polysaccharides: Starch (amylose and amylopectin) and glycogen are polysaccharides formed by glycosidic linkages between glucose molecules. Significance: Glycosidic bonds are crucial for forming complex carbohydrates, which play vital roles in energy storage, structural support (like in cell walls), and as components of important biomolecules like glycoproteins and glycolipids.

So in the last couple of weeks I tried to make the night time temperature go down enough for them to turn color and they did - the sugar leaves turned a deep bluish green, really nice coloring! I harvested over a 2-day period. Day 1 I hand-plucked the sugar leaves off plants # 1, 2, & 3. Day 2 I hand-plucked plants 4 & 5, trimmed all of them and cut them down whole. I hung them to dry in my closet/former grow room with a boot tray of water with a towel for evaporation. My last grow was a disappointment in the end due to me not realizing how dry it is in the house (here in the living room it's 19% RH due to it being January in Canada and the hot water heating radiators are going full time). When they were dry enough, I did the final trimming, removing all the waste and dividing the buds into 2 classes: Top tier which are the nice tops of the big colas, and 2nd tier, which are the rest. I think I'll learn to make hash with the 223 grams of wet sugar leaves. I'll be adding more to this final entry in the coming days - this has been really tiring! Final numbers for 5 ShishkaBerry plants: Top tier buds (dried not cured) 372g 2nd tier buds (dried not cured) 150g Hand plucked sugar leaves (wet) 223g Waste (Sticks, stems, burnt leaf tips) 128g I'm basing my comments on the taste by the glove-hash I smoked - wow it's really good! I'm looking forward to next month when these buds will be ready to enjoy 😁 I'd like to thank all my new friends here and the other growers that have helped me along the way 😚 Finally, I left you with an outtake video from one of the defoliation sessions 😺 Stay tuned for updates... UPDATE 1: Today I might have made some tincture or something, not sure. I slow-roasted the dried but not cured previously hand plucked sugar leaves and crumbled them up and put them in a mason jar (51 grams 100% dry weight) and added a little bottle of Absolut Vodka (375 ml). I shook the mixture vigorously for a couple of minutes then placed it in a cool area of the house to sit for a few weeks before a first test - not totally sure what I'm doing here). UPDATE 2: Possibly made Rick Simpson Oil (RSO) out of the Alsolut vodka - ShishkaBerry mixture: I strained it so that there was no plant material, reduced it in a double boiler style, not sure what to do with the gooey stuff that's left as a result.

Esa familia, ya hemos vuelto fumetillas, ya estoy de nuevo activo para explicaros mis métodos para cultivar vuestra yerba. Bueno contamos esta vez con una cookies gelato de royalqueenseeds, la verdad por oídas y lo que leí, que son una cepa bastante fuerte tiene bastante thc, veremos estas semanas cómo avanzan. Si germinación 100%, 5/5 ejemplares germinados y preparados para brotar. . Hasta ahora el ph lo dejamos en 5.8 la temperatura ronda los 22/24 grados y la humedad está en torno al 80%. . Ahora en la alimentación, gama agrobeta. 0,5 ml x L Piramid , vía radicular. 0,5 ml x L Growth black line , vía radicular. 0,1 gr x L Cancerbero , vía radicular. 0,1 ml x L Tucán , vía radicular. 0.1 ml x L Flash Root , vía radicular. 0,4 ml x L Great Green , vía foliar. . Empezamos con muy buen pie, espero que no surjan muchos problemas en futuras semanas, buenos humos 💨💨💨.

Девочки чувствуют себя отлично, lemon ak меняют цвет, стараюсь не сильно удобрять , чтоб ничего не сжечь. Изначально мы начали рост в субстрате biobizz all mix+20-25% coco... там достаточно питательных веществ. Через 4-5 дней придет новый квантовый борд и я добавлю еще больше света на цветение!! Сейчас рост lemon ak 1(35 дней) примерно 50 см, lemon ak 2(28 дней) 45 см, северное сияние 42 см(34 дня)...

Bienvenidos cultivadores de marihuana clandestinos y también a los que tienen la fortuna de no serlo!🖐️👨‍🌾👍 Este diario es un relato semanal de técnicas, experiencias de cultivo y Bio preparados orgánicos caseros, los cuales llevo experimentando dos años en cultivos de marihuana interior. • Activación de Microorganismos de Montaña con Calabaza, zanahoria, minerales y quitosano para fortalecer las defensas de la planta contra patógenos. - Publicado el 😋 22/02/21 Después de 45 días de fermentación anaeróbica he abierto, lo que espero que sea un gran fertilizante para usar desde la etapa de crecimiento vegetativo hasta la preflora y primeras semanas de floración... después de usarlo durante un año en todos mis cultivos, puedo decir que es excelente. La calabaza y la zanahoria contienen multitud de minerales y vitaminas que ayudan a fortalecer el cultivo y ayudan a la expansión de las raíces. Este preparado es comparable, funcionalmente, con los extractos de algas, aunque mucho más completo. Esta hortaliza es rica en antioxidantes. Destaca su contenido en carotenos, que son los responsables del color característico de la calabaza. ¿Será que esto puede influir en los colores de las cepas?... en observación!! Gracias a la fermentación anaeróbica con Microorganismos de Montaña, los nutrientes, vitaminas y minerales son quelados por la acción de los MM, consiguiendo así un caldo nutritivo de primer orden que las plantas asimilan de inmediato. INGREDIENTES fórmula básica: Agua de manantial alcalino: 2,5L Suero de leche: 1L Microorganismos de Montaña Sólidos (varias cepas): 400g Melaza orgánica: 120g. Levadura de cerveza y fresca: 10g. Calabaza y zanahoria fresca: 475g. Cáscara de camarón deshidratado y molido (Quitosano): 6.5g • Extra Minerales: 10g de Roca fosfórica: P 7g de Azomite: Ca, Fu, Fe, K, Si, B y trazas de el resto de minerales de la tabla periódica. 8g de Ceniza de palmera: Ca y K. 5g de Piedra Pómez: Si, Al, Fe, Ca, K. 8g de caolin con Illita: Fe, Si. 5g de Sal de Epsom: Mg. • Elementos contenidos en la calabaza y zanahoria: Aminoácidos: alanina, arginina, cucurbitina, cistina, glicina, histidina, isoleucina, lisina. Ácidos: linoleico, aspártico, oleico, palmítico salicílico y fólico. Vitaminas: Vitaminas A, B1, B2, B3, B6, B9, E, A, C, K Minerales: calcio, cobalto, boro, magnesio, zinc, potasio, hierro. Azúcares: sacarosa PROCEDIMIENTO En este bio preparado he hecho una pre-hidrólisis de la calabaza y zanahoria, cociéndolas durante una hora con melaza para mejorar luego, en la fermentación, la disolución de todos sus elementos. También he hecho una pre-hidrólisis con la cáscara de camarón, esta vez he hecho una hidrólisis alcalina con KOH, que luego de dos horas añado a la mezcla final, además he diluido, todo lo posible, los minerales mediante una agitación violenta.. Disuelvo todos los elementos y añado levadura de cerveza y fresca para dar comienzo a la fermentación. Coloco en una bolsa de malla los Microorganismos de Montaña Sólidos de mis dos semilleros, donde reúno los Microorganismos (Bacterias de la familia de los Actinomicetos, Levaduras y Hongos (Micorrizas), Microalgas y Protozoarios) de seis bosques vírgenes de mi zona. Cierro el bidón herméticamente con válvula de escape de gases, como estamos en Enero y hace frío he puesto una cinta de calor alrededor del bidón para mantener una temperatura constante de aproximadamente 36°C, de esta manera el preparado puede estar listo en tan sólo 30 días, si fuera el caso de dejarlo a temperatura ambiente el preparado demoraría 2 meses más en estar disponible para uso. La fermentación comenzó a los 60 minutos y se ha alargado durante 25 días sin interrupción. He abierto el bidón a los 45 días, el olor ha fermentado es muy agradable, el color fantástico, algunos Microorganismos se ven prosperando en la superficie, separo medio litro para ir usándolo y cierro el bidón otra vez. Tengo varios cultivos incipientes donde voy a aplicar este fertilizante y observar sus efectos. Hasta la próxima semana... SALUDOS, SALUD Y GRANDES COSECHAS A TODOS!! 😁👨‍🌾💧💦🌞💡 ================================= 🙄👇👌👍👉👉🖐️👨‍🌾👍👈👈👈🤜👌🙏👇🤩🖐️🏻

All ready for 12/12

It has been another amazing week of the plants growing. I have been watching as the Fruity Freak leaves become progressively more fern-like, and ornamental as a result! Based on my Banizzle grows, I knew I needed to understand plant nutrients in a more meaningful way if I wanted these plants to thrive. So, I decided to get a soil test (see Ref. 1 below on how to perform a test) to understand what nutrients my plants needed. The report I received advised that I needed to add 200 lbs/acre of nitrogen, 150 lbs/acre of phosphorus, and 190 lbs/acre of potassium (see picture labeled Pic.1 (FYI you can't see these images unless you login to growdiaries)). I then researched what to do with my results (Ref. 2 helped), and I figured out that my nutrient needs of 200-150-190 fall close to a 2-1-2 ratio. I then looked at different types of organic fertilizers (see Ref. 3 and Ref. 4) and considered that I already had a 3-10-5 fertilizer (Vermibloom) on hand. I discovered Dr Earth’s Alfalfa Meal is 2-1-2 and includes beneficial bacteria and mycorrhizae (to promote healthy plant growth and disease resistance). However, I knew I would be low on nitrogen if I only used those two fertilizers. Therefore, I decided to buy some blood meal (12-0-0). I also liked that blood meal is more fast acting while the other two are more moderate. I hunted around for a solid fertilizer calculator and found an amazing tool from the University of Georgia Extension (Ref. 5). I entered all three fertilizers into the calculator, and it kicked out the exact amount of each fertilizer I needed to apply to 1 square foot (see Pic. 2). As I am using 10-gallon fabric pots (that can hold 1.5 cubic feet, but I put stone on the bottom and there’s space left at the top) I decided to use the one square foot application rate as I can always add more later, but I can’t take it away. Not only did I want to understand the nutrients I needed, but I also wanted to understand the structure of the soil (as it was not included in my test results). North Dakota State University has a nice page that discusses this (Ref. 6), and I performed a soil ribbon test (see Video 1) based on this information. I determined my soil to be medium textured (which is great), but I have seen occasional water pooling on the surface, suggesting that it may be more of a medium-fine. This means adding peat moss, coco coir, or other amendments might improve drainage (and plant hydration) and allow for roots to grow more easily. In the long run, I plan to use compost to enhance the soil structure and nutrients. I filled the bottom of my 10-gallon fabric pots with a ½” of pea stone to allow for drainage (Pic. 3). I then partially filled two 5-gallon buckets with topsoil from near where I will plant (but not in an area the roots will reach). I used a digital scale to measure the amount of fertilizers recommended by the calculator (Pic. 4, 5, and 6) and added it to one of the 5-gallon buckets (see Pic. 7). I mixed the fertilizers into the soil as evenly as possible (Pic. 8 and 9). I then poured a two-inch layer of non-fertilized soil, then peat moss, and then fertilized soil (in a roughly 2:1:1 ratio) and blended them together. I repeated this until the pot was full (getting additional soil as needed), and then I repeated the process for the other three pots. I set the filled fabric pots in my garage (Pic. 10) for two days to allow any upset bugs to flee into my garage instead of my house. I then moved the pots (wrapping them in a contractor garbage bag to prevent making a mess) into the room with the grow light. I placed a board on top of the fabric pots to insulate the plants (in their smaller pots) from the cold soil (Pic. 11). Once the soil in the fabric pots reaches room temperature, I will transplant. (Ref. 1) This video shows the method I used to take a soil sample. I didn’t have a field to test, so I took four samples from the area where I will eventually plant outdoors and blended them together. I then mailed my soil sample off to the lab, and about a week later, I received an email with a PDF of my results (included with my pictures this week). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9AwxmFxBwg&t=8s (Ref. 2) This video from the University of Minnesota Extension (many universities have agriculture extensions that can assist you with soil testing and growing information for your area) discusses what to do with your soil testing results: https://youtu.be/HYrkcfE62Pg (Ref. 3) This is a nice article that discusses organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.grow-it-organically.com/npk-fertilizer.html (Ref. 4) This article lists the NPK values of many organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.epicgardening.com/organic-fertilizers/ (Ref. 5) Many websites tout a fertilizer calculator…but this one is hands down the best I have found. If you scroll down to the bottom, you can enter any fertilizer type you want (and the cost, if you want). It will give you the exact blend of multiple fertilizers to solve your nutrient deficiencies (I included a snapshot of the solution I used in my pictures). https://aesl.ces.uga.edu/soil/fertcalc/ (Ref. 6) This is an excellent article that discusses how to evaluate your soil: https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/extension/publications/evaluating-preparing-and-amending-lawn-and-garden-soil

I get the first place among complete idiots! EVERYTHING IS FULL OF SEEDS!!! I completely freaked out and didn't even understand it. Apparently no lady had a hermaphrodite. No “yellow penis” or “scrotums.” I taped up my window and all the indicator lights for plugs, etc. The whole thing in a separate room. So how does it work? A good friend enlightened me. I slept at a colleague's house about 2 weeks ago. He also grows. Messy tent. Because he doesn't pay for electricity. And the tent was open all day long. Another friend told me that his whole grow was full of seeds. The idiot didn't even tape off his indicator light in the tent. Fat red irritating light all the time. This means the sperm is happily distributed around the apartment all day long. That's how I brought the plague into my house. If I understood that correctly. I'm really mad at him. He is not aware of any guilt. I can't eat as much as I want to vomit. So I harvested them to stop the seeds from growing and maybe be able to smoke some. Accordingly, there are no trichome photos. It's too early anyway. And now you can laugh your ass off and throw balls at me.

Día 41 al 48 de flora

Week 6 of to a good start! They look happy and healthy. Time to flip to flower soon! 👽👉3/10 Climate is automated and working accordingly to my adjusted VPD settings. Happy and healthy, actually surprised they've grown so much lately. 👽👉4/10 Waiting for their complete recovery, so they can be flipped to flower (Defoliation the 30/9, im giving them about a week) 👽👉5/10 Water day* Plain ph balanced water. Need Runoff PH and EC down a little bit. 👽👉6/10 I applied the SCROG net. 👽👉7/10 Doing some minor tweaks to the setup + VPD settings(from 1.0 to 1.1). Approaching the flip to flower, so VPD Did a bit of defoliation before the flip next week 👽👉8/10 Today, i learned from research on biobizz nutrients https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/biobizz-nutrients-answers-from-biobizz.78899/ (Direct answer from biobizz) With the answers, my view on feeding biobizz changed a bit, and i was luckily about to switch up the nutes. Good timing. Waterday* PH6.2 Introducing Biobizz CalMag(0.5ml/l) + BioBloom(0.25ml/l)+Topmax(0.25ml/l)+Rootjuice(0.25ml/l) Still 2ml/L Fishmix+BioHeaven(Fishmix will be switched out with BioGrow) 👽👉 9/10 Last day of the week for my plants and last day in veg! They look fantastic and well recovered at lights on! (Look at the before/after lights vids/pics) Raised VPD by 0.1: VPD settings(from 1.1 to 1.2)

Girls been doing great , sadly i have missed a few weeks so this is a update from week 3 to week 5 few pictures I have took threw the weeks ... girls are doing great and stacking really nice aswell as frosting up

Done some cropping on wed 1/8. She's waiting in VEG cause my closet isnt ready yet, so I can' t isolate her in 12/12, have other plants vegging in the same room.