Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Hi everyone :-) . It develops really strong and beautiful from week to week :-). In the next 5-10 days I will put them in the flower chamber :-). Until then, I will train you with topping for the last time today 👍. Otherwise the tent was cleaned and everything checked 👍. Have fun and stay healthy 🙏🏻 You can buy this Strain at https://www.barneysfarm.com/blue-cheese-34 Type: Blue Cheese ☝️🏼 Genetics: Blueberry X Original Cheese 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Bio Bizz Coco ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8

I flowered during a heatwave so lights were dimmed a half week.. other then that everything was good. Humidity was between 45-60% all way trough flower. I really love this pheno smells very blueberry

The progress is visible looking at the timelapse video, which I'm happy for, considering the events of last week. It's disappointing though to see the huge difference in size between the Criticals and the GZkitzs, the Criticals are 3 times larger.

Week 16 - 06/28 - 07/04 Light - 200 W HPS & 265 W LED Day Temperature - 78 F Night Temperature - 68 F Humidity - 40 +/-5 D59 Flower - Came home from vacation to some fat sugar coated buds! I flushed them with FloraKleen and molasses, this should be the last one before I snip down the main colas. Since they are close to harvest, I spent about an hour defoliating so harvest will go a little quicker. D60 Flower - Took the ladies out to breathe, take some pics, and snipped the tops off the Royal Gorilla's. I'm going to allow the Hulkberry's to mature a little longer and probably do the same thing and snip the tops. D61 Flower - Unfortunately HB #3 hermies on me, she had a bunch of "bananas". So I cut her down and hung her to dry, Sucks to lose her but she will do well in some RSO! Unmanicured wet weight was 251 g. I am also going to be testing out the bowl bud trimmer I just ordered on these buds to make sure they dont damage the buds too much.

Switched to 12/12 on the 10th of september Rock on Growmies 🌱

Seems I told a lie last week, I'm late one day and I've done videos again cos again 🤥 Its been a good week for bud production regardless of a hiccup this week which shows as cal/mag and nitrogen deficiencies throughout each plant🤒 My ph pen malfunctioned and I ended up feeding them all 4.5 and didn't notice till the leaves told me 🍂 The ph pen has been replaced, amendments made to buffer the root zone and fingers are crossed 💉🤞 Super stinky grow this, going to replace my carbon filter before starting a new one because I caught wiffs of them when I entered my home today. If the flavours match the smells in this tent I'm in for a treat come smoke time.👃⛽🍋🍇 Its that magic time in the tent now where each girls really showing their own characteristics, both the purple punches and the zkittlez are different phenos to their siblings so I'm excited to see what they finish up like🏁 So far mostly good 👍 Thanks for reading 📖 One Love💚 Fire Farmer🔥👨‍🌾

4/1/2023 Week 7- Day 1 of Veg (Day 59 overall) Water Change Day!!! Water was really low it was just above the hump in the Res cutting it close to not having enough water in the system to keep it going. They drank a lot making it close going the full 14 days. I am still going with the previous grows and adding 36 Gallons but even looking at the root I think the SILICA is working and the roots are further along at this point than in previous grows. This next two weeks will watch how much they drink and how low my Res starts getting, and will make a decision on changing the water weekly from here on out or still keep on the plan of every other week until Week 4 of Flower. Added 36 Gallons Mammoth SILICA= .5Mil/Gal = 18Mil CALMAG= .5Mil/Gal = 18Mil Root Drip= 1Mil/Gal = 36Mil FloraMicro = 5.4Mil/Gal = 194Mil FloraGrow = 4.2Mil/Gal = 151Mil FloraBloom = 4.6Mil/Gal = 166Mil ORCA = .5Mil/Gal =18Mil PPM= 536 PH=5.84 PPFD=500 Tent Temp= 76.5 Water Temp= 71.4 Humidity= 58% 4/2/2023 Week 7- Day 2 of Veg (Day 60 overall) Not much today, PH was at 5.81, I brought that back up to 5.90. I took care of some badly needed defoliation in each of the back sides .. I was able to see some really good clone material to use on the lower backside of each of the plants. I will be taking two clones from each to breed over the next few weeks depending on when I am going to flip them. 4/3/2023 Week 7- Day 3 of Veg (Day 61 overall) A little FIMing, A little Topping, and a Little bit of defoliation. Might have to take my clones during the week this week, I am trying to wait until Saturday to hit week 8 but again they are getting all over the place and I need to trim some of the sides and lower areas. 4/4/2023 Week 7- Day 4 of Veg (Day 62 overall) I decided to take my clones and clean up the lower half of the plants. I took 2 clones from each plant to go into the cloning machine. 4/5/2023 Week 7- Day 5 of Veg (Day 63 overall) Water Temp is sitting at 73. Right in my ideal range for my setup. Ideal range 70-74 My Temp Tent is my ideal zone75.6 Ideal for this grow 70-78 The lights are still waiting the switch to flower to get maxed out... The Humidity is coming in right at 60% I love it.. I took so much off yesterday I figure it was a good day to let them rest. 4/6/2023 Week 7- Day 6 of Veg (Day 64 overall) I needed to Defoliate some and I topped a little. The plants might force me to flip them soon. Next Wed is the 10 week mark half way through the 20 weeks. The net is Bingo... Which means that If/when the plants hit the net I will have to flip them. The Net is set to the max height that I can let them get based on the Breeders Stretch report 75%. 4/7/2023 Week 7- Day 7 of Veg (Day 65 overall) #3 is 22 inches Tall, #2 is 19 Inches Tall. Net is set at 24 inches. Net is also set as my Bingo point, if they hit the net then I have to flip no matter what to account for the Breeders recommended 75% Stretch allowance. I think I am going to have to flip right at the 10 week mark of the Competition which is Wed 12 Apr. I topped a little, I de-foliated a lot to start getting it ready for the anticipated Flip.

El living la Vida chedda mother Fukin Bob 112 here wee fuking go usual rite troops need tae go see a man aboot a dug

She is 4 weeks into flower and doing awesome!!! I started seeing some discoloration on her tips so I cut the nutes by 25%. She is smelling great 👍!!! Buds are stacking and fattening up nicely!! So far this has been a great grow!

Day 27- day 1 flower Flip to 12-12 Day 28-day 2 flower Calmag -0.8ml Coco A - 1.5 Coco B- 1.5 Roots -0.2 Day 29-Day 3 flower Calmag -0.8ml Coco A - 2.5 Coco B- 2.5 Active boost -2ml Roots -0.2 Day 30- Day 4 Watered Coco A - 2.5 Coco B- 2.5 Active boost -2ml Roots -0.2 Day 31–day 5 Watered Day 32– day 6 Watered Day33- day 7 Watered Day 34-8 Watered last night so nothing today Day35–9 Watered Day 36-10 Watered Day 37-11 No feed, Day 38–12 Fed 1.5L Day 39-13 Watered Day40-14 Fed pk Day 41-15 Fed 1.7 coco a 1.7 coco b 2 ml boost 1 ml Pk Day 42-16- started adding pk Fed Day 43-17 Fed Day 44-18 Fed 600 ml just before lights out 1L lights on Day 45-19 Fed 1.6 L Day 46-20 Fed 1.5L Day 47-21 Fed 1.5L Day48-22 signs of potassium deficiency so keeping the food levels up for few more days , started with light feeding but now doing heavy feed chart . -Starting to give off a berry and gas smell . Day48-23 Fed 2L She’s thirsty today . Usually start to see runoff after 1.2 Lbur nothing Ml/L Watered 2.5 coco a 2.5 cocoa 2 sumo boost 2ml by accident instead of 1 Day 49-24 Fed 1.5L Day 50-25 Skipped feed to try lower humidity Day 51 Fed 2 L but no run off . Think she’s thirsty from no water yesterday . Will do another 500 ml to see run off if not I’ll leave it at that .

The run continues nicely, we still had some temperatures of nutritive solution a little high with the heat of Danielle. It drops drastically in 2 days so I will finally finish this growth in the calm one and will be able to begin my bloom on September 24th. I apply hydrogen peroxide at a rate of 0.5ML/L, twice a week as a treatment. The root Rot X is used every ten days when changing the nutritive solution. I put less water in my system, in order to create a wet zone and a dry zone, I make sure that the roots are always immersed of course. As soon as the temperature drops, I will switch to 800 ppfd for the end of growth and depending on the evolution of the plants I may add some sensi grow a and b to increase the ec a little. If you are attentive, you will observe on the tips of the leaves or even on the leaves, spots of burns or deficiencies, it is simply the consequence of the pythium a few days earlier. The last growth update will be around September 24/25.

10/12 begin week 6 start of flowering do some lst and defoliation hoping doing right 11/12 dont know if my Light is enough so i buy i mars hydro 1000 to be sur they have what they need

Day 175 Flowering is progressing and the weather has cooled down. I'm wondering when I'll start cutting back on fertilizer. I think I'll do it for another week or two. There's just a little rain this week. I think the buds are small, but they're dense.

I already cut one of 3 pots I put one to dry and another 2 pots I’m doing the flush this week.

4-22-20: Ive added 2 tsp Tiger Bloom into the 1 gallon water feeding. Im still only watering 2 times max per week. Only feeding when pots are light. Every other feeding is room temp 6.5 ph water. 4-23-20: noticed some yellowing on lower fan leaf. Mixed up a gallon of Grow Big and equally divided it between 5 plants. Hopefully that stops it. And being so early into flower, a little nitrogen wont hurt or cause nute burn. 4-25-20: gave all 5 plants a trim. Plenty of light to lower bud sites and responding well.

United k

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

3rd week of flowering Did a lollipop, took some clones and now I'm making a fungal aerobic tea for the next week. Day 21: Don't know if I defoliate it or not and how many leaves? Just the big ones? Just the low ones? I'm scared lol

The seed was immersed for 12 hours in water with three drops of 3% hydrogen peroxide 11.01. Then it was immersed in a peat tablet. After throwing off the helmet, the tablet was placed in a 1 L cloth bag. Cloth bag about 15 liters Earth will be used in its own assembly: sour peat, sphagnum peat, Biohumus, perlite, vermiculite, GUANOKALONG, krill meal, bone meal, fish meal, dolomite flour, ash, sapropel, English salt. I also use trichoderma, mycorrhiza, some bacteria and organic stimulants Italian company Valagro. 80% is super soil, and 20% on top is soil for seedlings. The main pot watered Trichoderma lignorum before planting the seedling. I used the method of sprouting in a peat pad for the first time - did not like it. Better in a napkin. The first cloth pot of 1 liter is also a bad option. Next time I will take a 0.3-0.5 l paper cup for drinks.