Week 10 Week 3 of Flower This plant has exploded over the course of a week. She is starting to crowd out her tent mate a little at this point lol. I had to do another round of defoliating because the fan leaves on this plant get so big! I am pretty impressed with the stretch and vigorous growth this week. I can’t wait to see this lady start stacking on some bud. Cooler Internals: 600 ppm 1.2 EC 5.9-61 pH (it swings a bit over 3 days) 65 F Solution Temp. Onward 😎🍻

Good week 👍🏾, overwatered them a tad but they coming along nicely !! Bud sites are looking good plants are thriving nicely can’t wait to see the buds start to form in the later weeks. Got 4-5 weeks left on them so almost there 🙌🏾.

7 days since seeds came up from the soil..doing just fine I guess..need to upgrade my lights tho

Beginning of week 3. Great development good healthy color.

**Encontrarás la traducción a español al final de la descripción** From/Desde: 19/04/19 || To/Hasta: 25/04/19 From day/Desde día: 57 || To day/Hasta día: 63 You can find the Money Maker Diary here: ** Podéis encontrar el diario de las Money Maker aquí:** https://growdiaries.com/diaries/25667-gorillamakingmoney-gorilla-vs-money-m -----IMAGES & VIDEOS----- 1 - Before defoliation 2 - Defoliation 3 - After defoliation -----WEEK SUMMARY----- (Following text was translated with tools and reviewed, sorry for mistakes, misspellings or nosense things) As you can see I've done a defoliation this week. Yes, I have really gone over the top, I have removed many more leaves than I had, and the tails of the plants has not come to join at all due to the failed defoliation. Being the first defoliation I do, I did not really know what I was doing and I went crazy. Now that it has been several weeks since I made this defoliation, I realize that I should not have removed the leaves from the nodes of the tails, because they have stopped growing and have not joined with their superior parts. Anyway, the plants are beautiful today and although they could be much better I feel very happy with them. I know I've made 2 fatal mistakes in this grow  - The first has been the massive defoliation badly done, defoliation yes, but with head ... do not follow my example.  - The second failure that I see today, is that I did not leave enough growth time (18/6) after having made the last pruning and that has made the tails have been a length much less than what would have been desired, I think that 2 more weeks of growth would have been perfect. -----WATERING CALENDAR----- 20/04/19 - 1,250 ml with Sensizym, Silica, Rhino Sk, Bud Ignitor, Big Bud, Bud Candy & Bud Factor-x @ PH6.4 & 1.2 E.C. 23/04/19 - 1,250 ml with All week nutrients - (Silica, Sensizym & Bud Ignitor) @ PH6.5 & 1.5 E.C. *****ESPAÑOL***** -----IMÁGENES Y VÍDEOS----- 1 - Antes de la defoliación 2 - Defoliación 3 - Después de la defoliación -----SUMARIO SEMANAL----- Como podéis ver esta semana he hecho una defoliación. Si, efectivamente me he pasado de listo, he quitado muchas más hojas de las que debía y las colas de las plantas no ha llegado a unirse del todo debido a la fallida defoliación. Al ser la primera defoliación que realizo, no sabía muy bien que hacía y me lancé a lo loco. Ahora que han pasado varias semanas desde que realicé esta defoliación, me doy cuenta de que no debí de haber quitado las hojas de los nodos de las colas, pues estos han dejado de crecer y no se han unido con sus partes superioras. De todas maneras, las plantas están preciosas a día de hoy y aunque podrían estar mucho mejor me doy con un canto en los dientes. Se que he cometido 2 errores gordos en este cultivo - El primero ha sido la defoliación masiva mal realizada, defoliación si, pero con cabeza.... no sigáis mi ejemplo. - El segundo fallo que yo veo a día de hoy, es que no dejé suficiente tiempo de crecimiento (18/6) después de haber realizado las últimas podas y eso ha hecho que las colas hayan quedado de una longitud muy inferior a la que hubiera deseado, creo que 2 semanas más de crecimiento hubiera sido perfecto. -----CALENDARIO DE RIEGO----- 20/04/19 - 1.250 ml con Sensizym, Silica, Rhino Sk, Bud Ignitor, Big Bud, Bud Candy y Bud Factor-x @ PH6.4 & 1,2 E.C. 23/04/19 - 1.250 ml con todos los nutrientes semanales - (Silica, Sensizym y Bud Ignitor) @ PH6,5 & 1,5 E.C.

8/16/25 looks like she's gonna produce some chunky buds. Thick white trichomes everywhere on the plant. Seems like she would produce a decent yield

i have no more AN 3 Part i use now the Sensi Bloom A + B

So I received some fastflowering testers from the amazing fastbuds I cannot wait for these girls too show themselves and start growing 🌱 Thank you so much too the fastbuds team I'm very excited too see what they become 🤞 👀🙏 I have not yet decided which nutrients too use between shogun and aptus but I may use both let's see. hope you will feel comfortable too advise as I go along any comments are welcome. Any aptus nutrients users please feel free on giving tips as I think I will be using aptus Stay blessed growmies 🙏🌱💚

Removed bloom from nutes. Last feed on 31st. Plain water twice spaced over 2 days Can't wait to harvest this baby. 1 month is worth the dry n cure!

I have now given the plants a third feed of the greenhouse feeds bio line. Plants remain healthy with just light defoliation now and then. Still no smell though?

Germinated in water (shot glass) Planted in coco / happy frog mix . Added Myco fungi , worm castings , root starter powder on Rapid Rooter plug . Watered with GH root starter. Growdots

End of Week 9 (Second week of flower) Increased the CO2 to 1300ppm and the ladies have stopped stretching. The main top-sites are starting to form buds. I defoliated a few fan leaves again because the fan leaves are growing so fast and blocking bud sites I also gave a cup of worm castings as a top-up to each pot to give the microbes a boost and it replenishes vital minerals to the soil. Pest Report: None

They're growing nicely. I've managed to solve the fungus gnat issue without pesticides!! Just waiting for another node or two and will top them both!

16/04/2021 (day 68): la plus grande plante a atteint le filet cette semaine mais j’ai été obligée de le retirer. Les tiges sont si épaisses et si rigides que j’arrive à peine à les plier pour les maintenir sous le filet. C’est seulement ma deuxième session et je n’ai pas assez d’expérience pour les plier sans les endommager. J’ai surélevé les plus petites pour avoir une canopée à peu près régulière et j’ai augmenté la puissance d’éclairage à 60%. Les plantes sont beaucoup plus vigoureuses que lors de ma première session et les fleurs sont beaucoup plus belles. Peut-être qu’elles apprécient plus les engrais Biobizz que les BioNova... ou peut-être que je commence à comprendre un peu mieux ce dont elles ont besoin 😀

Hello my friends! Almost weekend, are you ready for it ? I can't wait, the work drained me soooo much this week! Good that this little Titan gives me so much joy and satisfaction every time im back home! Back to us! Today is friday and marks the last day of her 10th week. Today is kinda important, is exactly 77 days since the plant showed up from the soil. RQS is saying that normally this plant is ready to harvest in about 70 to 75 days. Mine is already 77 and is not ready yet. As you can see from the picutres and clips especially the last ones of this week...you can see that her trichomes are not quite ready yet. The trichomes look like they are 85%/90% ready right now, as I am writing this post. The pictures and clips are also from this morning, is all fresh material. Most of the trichomes are cloudy but you can still see that few of them are not ready yet, also there is no amber colour at all. All of this it must mean that the plant can go couple days more. This week and the previous one I was reading and checking online about this plant and her previous grows. I understood that the plant in reality takes a little longer to get FULLY ripe and ready. A little over 80 to 85 days. I will let her run for another week more or less, today is day 77. For peace of mind I am checking the trichomes every 2 days to don't miss it or be late. It would be a shame to cut it down right now. Why? I can see the buds getting bigger and bigger everyday! She's getting thicker literally in front of my eyes, especially in this late phase of flowering. I can see the buds increasing in size day by day. I am sooooo happy! Dope! So harvest probably next week! WATERING This week I've started the FLUSH cycle. The plant got 6 L of plain water adjusted to 6.3 pH and splitted in 3 watering sessions by 2L each. In all 3 waterings the drained water was around 1 liter. NUTRIENTS No nutrients this week, same story next week. Just plain water till harvest, the water will be adjusted to the correct pH. No more no less. The harvest should fall exactly on the day that marks 2 weeks of no nutrients. So actually with this we are really spot on! Perfect I would say. LIGHTNING The light is always 100%, 24/7. The only update here is that at the beginning of this week I lowered the light about 10 centimeters for this last days of flowering. Is an experiment...anyway my light is only 70 watts in the end. So I am not too worried about it, probably I should lower it couple of week ago to give that extra boost to the plant. But it is what it is, now is too late ahahahah. Anyways talking about the light...before I've got 25 centimeters between the led lamp and the plant, now is about 15 centimeters of distance. TRAININGS NO MORE training techniques were applied to the plant. At the beginning of this week I REMOVED all the LST that was trapping and keeping her strapped to the pot. I wanted the plant to BE FREE during the last two weeks of her life. Like a little treat and mercy for this beautiful prisoner ahhahaha. Removing the LST I allowed the plant to lift up a little bit more her branches. In this way the buds sites went up and closer to the led lamp, closer about 10/20%. Maybe is not much but in the end everything counts on the scale. We will see the results. The height of the plant didn't change in this last weeks, it reached 48 cm and stayed there. Actually after I released her from the LST last week, it gained 2 cm. So now at the end of her life the plant is 50 cm tall. The smell is strong and pungent, refreshing somehow. Very pleasant, I love it. OVERALL Everything is going well, just a little bit late on the schedule. The patience is the key for good and big buds! I CAN SEE THE FINISH LINE, WE ARE ALMOST THERE. See you next week for the final update! Stay safe y'all!

Rinçage.

ladies and gentlemen Welcome to peaky house gardens We are pleased to announce that we have finished our first experience with growth made only from cuttings Our intention was to have a lot of weed that was all THE SAME....AND I WOULD SAY THAT WE SUCCEEDED 🤙😉😋👩🏼‍🌾 Let us know if you liked it... we're waiting for your comments

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

D88 - She stretched a lot and I did not intervene with her stretching that much. She doesn't even need any LST since the beginning of flowering. I am just defoliating her a little bit by taking out the leaves blocking the direct light and that's it. Pollination - Previously I harvested some male pollen from a female plant by spraying colloidal silver. This plant itself was a breed of White Rhino X AK47 (White47 I call it). Now I pollinate White 47 with AK47 again at the third week and it will have time to mature her seeds I hope. I marked the branches and turned off-the fan nearly for a day to prevent over-pollination. I took a video in case you want to create your own seeds!

So I had to cut all leaves, and also some of the smaller leaves due to mold. It was only a little bit mold but I cut away every part that seemed to white for me in the end. It probably would habe worked out growing her 2-3 weeks longer but I decided to chop/save her.